Hi Linus! You are simply my nr 1 source on youtube for video tips, tricks and reviews. Loved every single thing you've done from the start, a lot of things I know about computer components, I have you to thank you for! Thx man, please never stop using that burning desire and energy for sharing what you know with others :)
+LinusTechTips This was very helpful. I don't think I would have thought about not being able to get to the dust to clean it and push is how my water cooler is coming by default. I have two dogs and already have to clean my pc with a mini blower every two months. BTW I've been using a hand held blower (looks like a tiny leaf blower) for about two years and while it has never failed to do a great job can you foresee any reason not to do this? I always hold the pc fans still as sometime in my life I think I was told not to over wined a electric motor. Can anyone confirm this?
Air Penetrators are EXCELLENT fans, and don't get enough credit. They undervolt extremely gracefully with no extra motor noise. The same can't be said of the majority of "good" fans out there.
Excellent wisdom right here, especially the tip about using pull so as to easily clean dust. Linus, after watching several of your videos, I can safely say you're my favorite tech guy!
+bennemann Cleaning the rads configured to push should be easy, you just blow them with a can of air from the outside. This way you're not pushing more dust on the deeper radiator surfaces but blowing it out the oppposite way to how the dust came in. Disadvantage is that you don't have much visual control, but as soon as dust stops falling out, you should be good.
You do can buy those finger guards separately. I had to buy one for my side 200mm fan because the case was so tight that my GPU cable sometime touched the fan and stopped it from spinning. The guard kept it from blocking the blade and all is good now.
9 years later and this video is still relevant and helpful as ever. My AIO is top mounted and this video saved me from taking my PC apart to switch the fans to push. They're running in pull atm, creating a positive air pressure in the case because of the 2x 200mm front fans and 1x 120mm exhaust fan.
I cant believe how long you have been around. I watched this video when I built my second rig. Now a decade later, coming back for a reminder. Keep it up brother!
Sorry it really doesn't work that way. The ambient temperature of the air is the same whether you're pushing it through or pulling it through the radiator/heatsink fins.
Interesting stuff. I did a bunch of tests with my Corsair H60, and when I first got it I replaced the included fan with a single Antec TrueQuiet fan. I loved it so much, I decided to get another one and do a push-pull setup. The fans make literally no noticeable noise. With 2 fans, it's 4-5 degrees cooler at full load, than with a single fan. The difference is small, but it's definitely a difference.
Well to answer this question in two different ways. I think top *fan is better. But, when it comes to you know...I prefer top but wouldn't mind bottom lol.
Dear Linus, I've had a serious argument with my fellow students regarding the validity of push/pull configurations. After showing them this video, they said that without providing test data (or even scientific studies) this is "just some guy on the internet" - no matter how many subscribers that guy has, how well-liked the video is, how many years of technical experience are hiding behind that opinion and him being a semi-official mascot (or saint, depending on who you ask) of /r/pcmasterrace. So here's my question: Do you have data to back up your claims? Have you changed your mind about this matter? I've configured my builds fan configuration according to your advise, so I'd like to see that, too... Thank you for being awesome G
GavinHohenheim If he is just some guy on the internet, they're just some students in a school and if they ignore the fact of how many years he's been doing, how many subs and views, then they're just not that smart are they now ;)
GavinHohenheim www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks There is some tests done comparing a lot of fans through radiators using push, pull, and push/pull configs. As you can see the PUSH config out does the PULL config by around 2.5c-5.0c. Hope that helps you make your decision on how you mount your fans.
GavinHohenheim Like most of Linus' OPINIONS, they are just that. I rarely see him provide any indisputable proof of any of the claims he makes, especially when it goes against common wisdom. His point about Pull providing easier cleaning is definitely valid, but I have yet to see any documented studies showing where Pull cools as well as Push unless his margin of error is +/- 10% or there about. Until he posts some studies from a reliable source then he's just blowing more hot air like he does so often.
GavinHohenheim I have been pc gaming and water cooling for years and while I wouldn't say the push/pull isn't sometimes better than push or pull alone, the extra effort (etc.) is not worth perhaps getting a degree or two lower on perhaps some of the cores. For anyone getting results that make it seem like a watershed moment, then they were doing something wrong when they have the two original fans. OTOH, everyone loves getting religious about tech, so if I were you, I wouldn't bother talking about this with your school chums. Might as well argue about abortion!
BINARYGOD For the most part, the advantage of Push/Pull is it enables one to use slower and quieter fans to achieve the same end cooling results, That's the only reason I do it on my air coolers. Otherwise I agree with what you said.
The dust buildup shows why I would go with a pull config. I would go so far to screw the fans into the case, then the rad into the fans. That way I could just take off the rad if I need to and keep the fans in place.
I've been using push-pull configuration since the dawn of time and I have never considered using a pool configuration leaving the bottom side of the radiator exposed for cleaning. This is such a simple tip but it's so helpful to be able to clean your radiator without taking everything apart
Thanks all. After testing with my new build my temps are allot better with the air from outside the case being pulled in rather than the opposite. My build is here if you would like to look ;) i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/slamminuk/IMG_1831_zps3ijoshdk.jpg
i am subscribed since over a year, get to upgrade my rig, came up with the dust question, youtube-googled-ish for 10 seconds, found an old LTT video, linus explains 5min, ready to go! Thank you linus! you are awesome!
Short answer: Configure your radiator and fan combination in Pull or you'll get tons of dust which is nearly impossible to clean out without taking the radiator apart.
This really helped, I was planning on installing a radiator in push pull, and now I know to get pressure optimized fans, ran in pull, so I don't need to clean as much, thanks linus, I really appreciate it!
Something I've always wanted to know but never bothered doing research. This video was so well done I am subscribing without looking at anything else. i have a feeling I'll be back.
Fan plus fan is called compound and does in fact increase cfm. The front fan will feed the second fan compressed air. Look at compound turbos on diesels.
Several logical ways to know the best set up - Industries (yes, INDUSTRIES!) in refrigeration and air-conditioning run their heat exchanges in pull to avoid dust in any environment possible. I believe they know a LOT better than we amateurs ;) - I find it STUPID when people use static pressure fans in pull and air flow fans in Push :') - Most of them get the whole concept of basic common sense thermodynamics wrong. What is the point in having the back IO fan in exhaust when the radiator, which if situated towards the top, needs more air? It has to be in Pull to help feed the radiator. - Same goes with getting air to pull from top of case and push through bottom of radiator! That's like WTH moment. Why fight against nature by pushing not air down? There is a point that all data centers get cool air pumped from the floor down to cool all the racks. I feel like Sherlock in these instances. It has got to be so VACANT in most peoples heads :D
I have the same case, Corsair Vengeance C70. What he said is true that so much dust accumulate if you made your cooler do push exhaust/intake. It was hassle to clean the radiator because you have to unscrew those fans and remove them. That tricky part about that is the small clearance of the screws (closer on the tray), it's blocked by the heatsink of the motherboard. So what I did was pull exhaust config on top of the case.
I have a Corsair H100i in a Push/Pull configuration using the original non-SPL rated 120mm fans on the back in order to space the radiator out the extra 25mm from the case. This allowed the radiator to BAREFLY fit inside my Antec 1200. The two fans on the front are the Corsair SP120s. So it's really Push/half-pull. But I can easily clean my radiator in my case when I take the side-panel off because I don't use a can of air... I use an air compressor that pushes over 60PSI out of the nozzle. When you push that much air backwards through the radiator, all the dust comes out with it. It's quite easy to clear the dust from the case in that manner. I never had to remove my fans at all.
Its also worth noting that a 25-30mm gasket between the fan and the radiator will improve airflow and help negate the dead spot. I seem to remember a test someone did a long time ago (pro-cooling forums maybe?) showing all the configs and the numbers supported push-pull > push > pull, however you do have a good point in that the improvement from push-pull might not justify the added noise and pull has the benefit of being easy to clean but being that you WILL be exhausting from the radiator if its an internal setup, by putting filters on all the input fans you can prevent dust build up in the first place ;) And to the guys saying push-push or pull-pull unless you have counter rotating fans or a gasket with air straightening fins in between each fan you are wasting your time.
Sorry I didn't realize you were including megatowers in your statement. For the record, it will not fit in my case and allow the filter to fit on top. And it is not a mini itx either. A mid tower.
***** Yea it all comes down to case design, in the same way some may have to stick to 30mm radiators over 60+mm radiators, so far I haven't been limited in that respect.
I'm sat here with my new H100 having the air pushed through it in my C70 case. I found this vid at the right time so I'll get it changed around tomorrow. Great vid, thumbs up and thanks for sharing.
+FroztiProductions Generally if im correct, you use AF fans on casing exhaust on the back and top *if you not using any liquid cool*, and casing intake at front *some case has drive bay near to the front and people recommend use SP fans instead* Use sp fans for radiator and heatsinks fan if you wish to replace it.
+FroztiProductions SP for restricted spaces, AF for free space. Example: Let's take a Corsair 750D case with an h110i at the top configured as an exhaust, back fan as exhaust, front as intake. Front: If no drive cages or stuff tucked against the fans, AF, otherwise SP. Back exhaust unless used as a rad is usually exhaust airflow. Top is AF if no rad, exhaust, if radiator SP as push or pull exhaust. A little bit more positive pressure (intake) in the case is better than negative pressure (exhaust) for dust buildup, because negative pressure will pull in dust from unfiltered holes, while positive pressure will push the air out.
Been subscribed to Linus for a while now.. also inspired me to build my own PC. Having finished my build about 3 months ago I decided that I need(want) a new case... disassembling my h80i revealed an insane amount of dust! When I upgrade the watercooling to a full loop I will definitely keep this in mind. Thanks again guys ;)
***** Having dust filters on all intakes helps a lot too. If the case you have now, buy in future, doesn't come with nifty removable filters, you can always slap on some after market ones. ;)
Square / Rectangle frame fans line up with the edges of the radiator. Their fan blades are as long as possible to force air through the cooling fins. Standard fans are for general directional cooling / case air flow, they have shorter blades which don't give the same draw strength.
Thanks Linus. I've had this same talk with friends and got many different answers but you summed it up nicely. I just got my first radiator cooling unit. I went with the H100i for my Fractal R4 case and had to watch a dozen or more videos before finally finding yours explaining why its so much better to pull air through from a cleaning perspective.
now, back in 2012 I don't even know there is a water cooler for computers xD but thanx to linus, I know more stuff than talking to people here, very tight lipped computer shops here. Now every time I go to a computer shop they frown upon my entrance xD
The only difference between push and pull is in the way the fans are positioned in relation to the radiator, not the way air actually flows. So you can have a setup where you "make the air from inside the case go through the rad to expel it outside" with either push or pull. Push means the fans are positioned below the rad, pushing the air directly into the rad. Pull means they are positioned above the rad, pushing air directly out of the case but at the same time pulling it through the rad.
Answer me this one. My configuration is push pull from the outside of the case. What do you think would happen to your vehicle if you put the radiator in the back with no auxiliary venting and just asked the fan to push air from the cab thru it. Your cab would be hot and your vehicle would overheat. That's why the radiator is in the front so it catches cold air. Fans blowing outside cold air on the radiator will cool better than fans blowing/sucking hot air thru the radiator from the case.
I run push pull, it helps, It Lowered my temps 10'C with the fans at 50 percent.. Its easy to clean, i just use my air compressor with a moister trap filter on it so i don't blow moister all over the inside my computer. That canned air crap is for the birds.
In a pull configuration, the first thing the air (including dust, hair, etc) is going to hit is the radiator. It is easier to clean a pull configuration because you can clean out the rad area with out the fan in the way. The rad is all you are concerned about cleaning, because that is where you need to airflow to cool the liquid. Sure there will be some dust on the fan on pull, but no nearly as much. The rad catches much more dust than the fan ever will. Make sense now?
The missing piece of info is what direction the air flow should go (inside to outside or outside to inside). Always go inside to outside to get hot air from the radiator out. Your other fans should bring colder air in with maybe one other fan moving air to the outside to balance things out. Just try to have good airflow where you have about the same number of fans moving air in as out.
so you know im useing some of your videos for (with your title next to the link) for a one stop place in my 120mm sp fan line up on a couple different forums your is one of them thanks for the awesome videos they are very informative..keep it up cant wait to see what 2017 brings
Thank you for your reply. I had a suspicion that controlling condensation might be a problem. I imagine that an enclosed nitrogen gas environment might control condensation; however, access to the motherboard, for upgrades and such, would then become more involved. It seems that air cooling and radiators are the more practical solution for cooling. I would like to find a practical way to cool the processor and maintain a negative Celsius temperature and be silent also.
look at all that money. to be able to mess and configure with unlimited hardware and software sources and im just. its my dream. and this was 3 years ago and I still got a i5 cpu. lol
Blatz430 Well its not to say its bad. But this is the last era of gaming I will actually be able to use this max. Best thing is to get your ram and a capable motherboard first.. lol which for me would even be the z97. i made a mistake and bought ram and a video card first and cant even overclock them on this motherboard and its a single 12v rail.
Linus, let me explain it better: two fans at the same RPM == same CFM as one fan but twice the power. Think of it like a car's gearbox. 1st gear == most power used, less performance (speed), 5th hear == less power used, biggest performance (speed). Now with fins and fans it's different, you just need to keep air moving such that the maximum heat transfer potential at the room's temperature is achieved. That doesn't mean speed. It actually means power to keep it moving through all those fins.
I think the push/pull vs just push or pull argument is largely dependent on you radiator as well as your fans. The reason I say this is because I have a couple of Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans set up in push/pull with my NZXT Kraken X40. I recently tired taking off the push fan due to limited space in my case, but to be sure about the results I also ran Prime to check the difference in CPU temperatures. For this test I ran the fans at 100% to get as much airflow as possible, and thje results was staggering in my case. I recorded a whooping 12 degree Celcius in difference when running just pull instead of push/pull. I had a max temp at 57 degrees C while in Push/Pull and that raised all the way to 69 degrees C when just in Pull. Granted; the Noctua NF-A14 might not be as pressures optimized as the NF-F12, but Noctua still markets them as pressure optimized fans. This is just something for people out there to think on.
Actually the pressure of the fan is determined by the blade pitch and RPM. The factory tries to balance these out for intended use and noise levels. Maybe one day they will offer variable pitch fans for computers but I have not seen one yet. One reason would be the cost to build one would be 5 times the average price. So they use variable speed controllers for now. To get the best cooling with water is to choose the best fluid that has high surface tension properties to draw heat into the fluid.
Alright this one finally got my sub! Not because it's the best, just because in research I found myself constantly pulling up your videos. Anyway, then I'm completing my build and couldn't a nice complete answer to what I was looking for until I pulled this up! Nice videos and thanks for all the tips!
The standard way to handle condensation seems to be covering the motherboard with some sort of nonconductive foam. And there are people that run systems well into the negatives 24/7, although I can't speak for the lifespans of their components.
I also have my radiator fan configured in pull. It seems to make the most sense since the radiator fan replaced my rear exhaust fan anyway. So that's where I have it mounted. Linus made a good point on how easy it was to clean the radiator. I had to clean mine a couple times so far. It's not a big deal. Just brush it off.
Sure, because you're optimizing the static pressure between the fans and the rad. You're helping the air move through it more efficiently, but at the cost of higher energy consumption and noise levels. That, and you'll have to clean out the push side of the rad more often than the pull side or the extra fans aren't really doing you any good at all.
Because of the thickness of the h80i you will maybe see a few degrees higher operation with only one fan, but the most important thing is to keep the fan in pull configuration. In short, it's fine
The only advantage I can think of for push vs pull or vica versa, would be choosing where your dust primarily builds up. If you are in push, the radiator gets all the dust, if you are in pull, the dust may get caught in an intake filter. So you can possibly make your case a little easier to clean, depending on the case and setup.
Thank guys. I'm usually pretty good with hardware, but this actually helps my next build. I hadn't considered the newer fans and their capabilities, and had been thinking of going in the old push pull config.
the vents that channel the airflow after the air has been pushed by the blades don't make the fan bad for pull. If you think it's unacceptable to run a fan like the nf-f12 in pull then you can buy silverstone air filters which are available in various sizes. they are magnetic and you can attach them to the fan wihout having to onscrew the whole thing to remove and clean the dust filter
Considering you're already using 2 fans in a push/pull configuration, switching to delta fans would be pointless and unnecessarily loud. Heat is absorbed by air at a specific rate and as such, air traveling at 50cfm or 250cfm won't change anything. Unless the ambient temp inside your case is hitting 70C and above (example) it may be worth it. Then again a simpler, quieter fan would do the same. The extra degree or two gained isn't going to get you any further in stability tests if you're OCing.
That would depend on whether or not the fans are using performance monitoring software / hardware to adjust the fans' RPM based on the temperature e.g., radiator. The fans performance is configured through monitoring software based on the users preferences. In my build I am using the fans that were provided with the H100i: additionally I am using Corsair link cable with the Corsair Link 2 software (my case is the Corsair Graphite Series 600T). Basically, higher temp = higher RPM and noise.
I think you would get only the amount of airflow that your case would be able to exhaust though fan holes/ cracks in the seams of the case. Having a ton of fans just pumping air into it with no way for it to exhaust out won't make it work better. In fact it might make the airflow worse. You do want slightly more filtered air pumping in than exhausting to help keep the case clean inside but you can go overboard with no net gain after a certain point.
Linus did say something very important about push pull config. When it comes to cleaning it. You have to take it out of your case because of the dust. There no way for you to clean both sides unless if you take it out of the case. Fyi, this is just for those who care about being clean. If you don't oh well.
this is a good video to pre-warn people from doing the push configuration. I share the same opinion that it is always better to do a pull configuration unless there are hardware or space limitations
As a refrigeration service tech for a few years, PULL! For the exact reason he stated. From top of the line down to lower end less reliable units (maybe not all the super crappy units) the fans All pull air across the heat exchangers. (condenser and evaporator) These condensing coild plug up with dirt quick as they are running 5-50W fans on and off all day and all night. At places that have prep-table coolers, that dust gets kicked around and sucked up by those fans and into those coils. It then gets packed on there like a blanket (yes like grandma's thick blanket but made of dust 3/8" thick. and that's just in 4-6 months. Leave them un-maintained for 8+ and you'll be calling the local HVAC/R service company because the unit is running warm.) making the whole system work harder. (think running a marathon on a hot summer day with a sweater on) get a bristle brush (plastic bristle or softer. no metal) and a vacuum, brush that dust off into the vacuum hose, then get some compressed air (cans of duster, CO2, etc.) and blow backwards through the coil into the vacuum again and then blow forwards through the coil. The only way better to clean your radiators and coils is with a light pressure washing.
I also recommend a filter for your whole case where ever your intake is. Cheap filter from hardware store, foam pad, cut-to-size filter, w/e..... maybe not a coffee filter so much. Helps keep the whole setup much less dusty. Very nice. On second thought, through a K&N on there for an overpriced boost of 2 HP to your CPU.
when in push dust will build up on the radiator side with the fans but with pull it just build up dust on the opposite side of the radiator to the fan, wither run pull, or push with dust filters
I have had the opposite experience. I have a Silverstone FT02 case that came with built in filters on the three 180mm intake fans. I have had it for about 2 years and only dusted it once. And looking in the window right now it is still virtually spotless inside right now. I clean the filters every 2 months or so and they are always totally full of dust they have stopped. My heatsinks on my GPU and CPU are still spotless thanks to my filters.
It was Overclock3D. And incase you weren't sure, it was a joke. You can't actually get below ambient temp without phase change, peltier, or liquid gas cooling.
i would just like to share my thoughts on this push/pull question, as linus says it makes it easier to clean but if you take a look at an ac unit for example, the 6kW or bigger ones that you can use for both heating and cooling. they use pull configuration since their radiator is bigger than the fan can cover in push configuration so they make a funnel the size of the radiator and size it down to the fan size with low tolerances very much like you can see on some car radiators, that way the smaller fan creates negative pressure between it and the radiator sucking air evenly across the entire radiator. if you however use the fan in push configuration the airflow is more centered wich makes the radiator as small as the fan, in the pc world radiators and fans are pretty much the same size so that will not make any noticable difference but in alot of other cases were the fan cannot be sized equal to the radiator, pull is the goto method, atleast that is enough along with the cleaning benefits to convince me that the pull configuration allways wins or is atleast equal.
I have been using a push / pull with two of these corsair 120sp fans. I actually got a fan filter for the rear of the case and don't have the problem with dust / cat hair getting into the radiator. When I air out the case I do stop the fans and hose inside the radiator. I would think sucking in cooler outside air would be better.
Would depend on your setup. If everything is water cooled, then heat inside the case would be minimal and in fact it might be a plus to remove what little heat remains out. If you pump the heat inside the case, it could even heat the metal on the case which in turn would add even more heat to the radiator or atleast make it harder to cool. But as you say, you are pulling in cooler air in the situation that not everything is water cooled. But also think in that scenario that you are adding more heat to the items that aren't water cooled too.
that'd be a bad idea because hot air rises, those top fan would trap the hot air inside by pushing it down again so yeah as far as intake vs exhaust goes it should be a matter of 1-5 degrees maybe a bit more in intense gaming but its harder to clean if you put the radiator as intake no matter if the fans are the front of it or at the back of it (you'll have to unscrew it) and general rule: front, bottom and (side depends on GPU cooler) should be in take, back and top exhaust
Kraken X61 here with a 4790k and I've used a push config, pull config, and push/pull config. The results are the same. Idle 28 degrees and load at 43 degrees give or take a couple degrees within margin of error or negligible performance increase. I'm going to run it in PULL, radiator mounted on top of case to avoid that hassle of major dust build-up. Eff that!
if you notice, they do that on cars cause it cools them better and doesn't damage the blades. It's a win/win for pulling air cause if you push air through, the air turbulence from the fan blades hits the radiator and the air flow is slowed down before it makes it through the other side. 🙂
Joseph Long Thanks. Never thought of that before. Most people would consider this useless information, but now that I'm older and wiser, the most useless information are often the most useful. It can't be explained.
+Crunk Playa69 Exactly the same as mine, my temps atm with ts, skype, origin, CAM and a couple browsers on chrome 30-32 degrees. But the pc has been on for a while which allowed the liquid to warm up to 30 degrees.
Mine is also on the top, it barely fit :D i had to remove some drive bays for it. Its the h440w case. There is no dust filter on top, so the radiator works as a dust filter in a way that it prevents dust from getting in to the computer to some extent. Its pushing in air because i wanted the extra air to blow out of the cracks instead of pulling air into the cracks (which would bring dust in).
Very funny. I´ve been watching Linus for years now and this is by far the oldest video ever seen by me. No Jake, no big cameras, just him doing Linus-Things... :D
Surely push or pull matters because of temperature of the ambient air going through the radiators. If you are pulling hot air from inside the pc through the rad, its different to you pushing colder air from outside into the radiator and then into the pc. Also the source of dust is more likely directly from outside, as most pc have some kind of filter for air entering the case from the front, or underneath. Also 'push pull', has the corresponding 'pull push' mode, e.g. Whether the air is travelling in through the radiator, or from the case to the radiator. I would like to see this question revisited, please.
The real question is expelling radiator (CPU) heat into the case or out of the case. Internal case temps higher would increase heat on MBOB and GPU. That is my question, yet all I find are videos addressing fans and radiators. Tough to be aware of and clean a push configuration, so I am a NO vote on that. Heat into or out of case? Logic would say out.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I miss videos like this.
me too
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Kevin Ye Me seven :/
Hi Linus! You are simply my nr 1 source on youtube for video tips, tricks and reviews. Loved every single thing you've done from the start, a lot of things I know about computer components, I have you to thank you for! Thx man, please never stop using that burning desire and energy for sharing what you know with others :)
thanks :)
No TY you have very clear and entertaining ways of explaining EVERTHING....great channel bruh!
+LinusTechTips wow, linus replies directly to comments? mind blown
+LinusTechTips This was very helpful. I don't think I would have thought about not being able to get to the dust to clean it and push is how my water cooler is coming by default. I have two dogs and already have to clean my pc with a mini blower every two months. BTW I've been using a hand held blower (looks like a tiny leaf blower) for about two years and while it has never failed to do a great job can you foresee any reason not to do this? I always hold the pc fans still as sometime in my life I think I was told not to over wined a electric motor. Can anyone confirm this?
I see what you did there...
Woah.... I wasn't expecting that intro.... this video is old xD
what should i say? hello from the future :D
holy shit, this is ancient
Woah.... I wasn't expecting that comment.... this comment is old xD
I'm from the year 2019 Ram prices are still up but the GPU prices are closer to MSRP :/
Now it is even older.
Air Penetrators are EXCELLENT fans, and don't get enough credit. They undervolt extremely gracefully with no extra motor noise. The same can't be said of the majority of "good" fans out there.
"Blow a can of dust at it"
I noticed that too. Yeah because blowing dust will clean the dust off.
fire with fire.
I blow up the place where I job
The only way to kill a spider is with more spiders.
Excellent wisdom right here, especially the tip about using pull so as to easily clean dust. Linus, after watching several of your videos, I can safely say you're my favorite tech guy!
+bennemann Cleaning the rads configured to push should be easy, you just blow them with a can of air from the outside. This way you're not pushing more dust on the deeper radiator surfaces but blowing it out the oppposite way to how the dust came in. Disadvantage is that you don't have much visual control, but as soon as dust stops falling out, you should be good.
+Siana Gearz Thats not very effective.That will simply blow the dust everywhere.
There are filters that stop most of the dust. Then you just clean the filter.
I’m from 2020, and I have never seen fans that look like a grill.
They hella ugly but I've seen a few PSU's that look like that
You do can buy those finger guards separately. I had to buy one for my side 200mm fan because the case was so tight that my GPU cable sometime touched the fan and stopped it from spinning. The guard kept it from blocking the blade and all is good now.
What is going on here?
One of the great perks about a pull configuration is that if the air passing is hot enough you can use those grills to cook on
I'm from last week and grills are no fans of seeing.
just stumbled on this video and wow, production changed so much.
7 years old and still the quickest/simplest run down on push/pull fan config.
Try 9
9 years later and this video is still relevant and helpful as ever. My AIO is top mounted and this video saved me from taking my PC apart to switch the fans to push. They're running in pull atm, creating a positive air pressure in the case because of the 2x 200mm front fans and 1x 120mm exhaust fan.
I cant believe how long you have been around.
I watched this video when I built my second rig. Now a decade later, coming back for a reminder.
Keep it up brother!
YOURE A FRICKEN TEACHER GALORE! Any Pc question i have i usually find a video of you talking about it god damn thanks!
Sorry it really doesn't work that way. The ambient temperature of the air is the same whether you're pushing it through or pulling it through the radiator/heatsink fins.
here from 2019. omg NCIX vid!
me too
Here from 2020
Rip ncix
Interesting stuff. I did a bunch of tests with my Corsair H60, and when I first got it I replaced the included fan with a single Antec TrueQuiet fan. I loved it so much, I decided to get another one and do a push-pull setup. The fans make literally no noticeable noise. With 2 fans, it's 4-5 degrees cooler at full load, than with a single fan. The difference is small, but it's definitely a difference.
OK, that covers push vs. pull... now how about top vs. bottom? Which do you prefer? ;-)
Well to answer this question in two different ways. I think top *fan is better. But, when it comes to you know...I prefer top but wouldn't mind bottom lol.
This is what i love about ur videos, you always answer every possible question i could have and without dilly-dallying
Dear Linus,
I've had a serious argument with my fellow students regarding the validity of push/pull configurations. After showing them this video, they said that without providing test data (or even scientific studies) this is "just some guy on the internet" - no matter how many subscribers that guy has, how well-liked the video is, how many years of technical experience are hiding behind that opinion and him being a semi-official mascot (or saint, depending on who you ask) of /r/pcmasterrace.
So here's my question: Do you have data to back up your claims? Have you changed your mind about this matter? I've configured my builds fan configuration according to your advise, so I'd like to see that, too...
Thank you for being awesome
G
GavinHohenheim If he is just some guy on the internet, they're just some students in a school and if they ignore the fact of how many years he's been doing, how many subs and views, then they're just not that smart are they now ;)
GavinHohenheim www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks
There is some tests done comparing a lot of fans through radiators using push, pull, and push/pull configs. As you can see the PUSH config out does the PULL config by around 2.5c-5.0c.
Hope that helps you make your decision on how you mount your fans.
GavinHohenheim Like most of Linus' OPINIONS, they are just that. I rarely see him provide any indisputable proof of any of the claims he makes, especially when it goes against common wisdom. His point about Pull providing easier cleaning is definitely valid, but I have yet to see any documented studies showing where Pull cools as well as Push unless his margin of error is +/- 10% or there about. Until he posts some studies from a reliable source then he's just blowing more hot air like he does so often.
GavinHohenheim I have been pc gaming and water cooling for years and while I wouldn't say the push/pull isn't sometimes better than push or pull alone, the extra effort (etc.) is not worth perhaps getting a degree or two lower on perhaps some of the cores.
For anyone getting results that make it seem like a watershed moment, then they were doing something wrong when they have the two original fans.
OTOH, everyone loves getting religious about tech, so if I were you, I wouldn't bother talking about this with your school chums. Might as well argue about abortion!
BINARYGOD For the most part, the advantage of Push/Pull is it enables one to use slower and quieter fans to achieve the same end cooling results, That's the only reason I do it on my air coolers. Otherwise I agree with what you said.
The dust buildup shows why I would go with a pull config.
I would go so far to screw the fans into the case, then the rad into the fans. That way I could just take off the rad if I need to and keep the fans in place.
I have an air cleaner in my rooms (HEPA) and it takes MUCH longer for a radiator to get dust build up, along with good dust filtration.
So for the pull configuration, the fans are on top of the radiator pulling air through it and out the top of the case?
yes
Not at all practical for me.
I've been using push-pull configuration since the dawn of time
and I have never considered using a pool configuration leaving the bottom side of the radiator exposed for cleaning. This is such a simple tip but it's so helpful to be able to clean your radiator without taking everything apart
So should you pull air from outside into case or from inside and out of case?
SlamminUK You do not want the hot air from inside the case passing through the radiator. So pulling outside air into the case solves this problem.
Why would you want hot air passing through a radiator?! Tell me how that makes logical sense!
Thanks all. After testing with my new build my temps are allot better with the air from outside the case being pulled in rather than the opposite. My build is here if you would like to look ;) i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/slamminuk/IMG_1831_zps3ijoshdk.jpg
Brett Gibson Thanks ;). The rad fans at the top.
SlamminUK so you are pulling air in through the rad and out the back?
i am subscribed since over a year, get to upgrade my rig, came up with the dust question, youtube-googled-ish for 10 seconds, found an old LTT video, linus explains 5min, ready to go! Thank you linus! you are awesome!
Short answer: Configure your radiator and fan combination in Pull or you'll get tons of dust which is nearly impossible to clean out without taking the radiator apart.
Pull so that it is pulling air from inside the case through the radiator out right?
***** Yes. This keeps all the other non-watercooled components with some airflow past them.
Thanks!
*****
Pull= air pulled inside the case or air pulled outside of it?
This really helped, I was planning on installing a radiator in push pull, and now I know to get pressure optimized fans, ran in pull, so I don't need to clean as much, thanks linus, I really appreciate it!
watches video, immediately switches fan on heatsink to otherside
You said it wasn't that simple but this was the simplest video that I have seen yet... and really helpful.
what about having 2 fans on ur rad both on the same side but 1 in push and 1 in pull...
lol
Then you'll only have to pull it all out and only remove the push fan to clean.
Something I've always wanted to know but never bothered doing research.
This video was so well done I am subscribing without looking at anything else. i have a feeling I'll be back.
4:45 blow a can of dust at it...
Fan plus fan is called compound and does in fact increase cfm. The front fan will feed the second fan compressed air.
Look at compound turbos on diesels.
Yeah, this video is outdated. It also doesn't take into account the insane current temperatures of graphics cards.
Several logical ways to know the best set up
- Industries (yes, INDUSTRIES!) in refrigeration and air-conditioning run their heat exchanges in pull to avoid dust in any environment possible. I believe they know a LOT better than we amateurs ;)
- I find it STUPID when people use static pressure fans in pull and air flow fans in Push :')
- Most of them get the whole concept of basic common sense thermodynamics wrong. What is the point in having the back IO fan in exhaust when the radiator, which if situated towards the top, needs more air? It has to be in Pull to help feed the radiator.
- Same goes with getting air to pull from top of case and push through bottom of radiator! That's like WTH moment. Why fight against nature by pushing not air down? There is a point that all data centers get cool air pumped from the floor down to cool all the racks.
I feel like Sherlock in these instances. It has got to be so VACANT in most peoples heads :D
I have the same case, Corsair Vengeance C70. What he said is true that so much dust accumulate if you made your cooler do push exhaust/intake. It was hassle to clean the radiator because you have to unscrew those fans and remove them. That tricky part about that is the small clearance of the screws (closer on the tray), it's blocked by the heatsink of the motherboard. So what I did was pull exhaust config on top of the case.
The definitive answer to this existential question is a push-push configuration.
Won't it be even harder to clean the radiator out?
+Chalklate No, in a push-push config it is self cleaning. Get out of here. :P
Wash your fans with soap and water, while they are running.
pull-pull?
I have a Corsair H100i in a Push/Pull configuration using the original non-SPL rated 120mm fans on the back in order to space the radiator out the extra 25mm from the case. This allowed the radiator to BAREFLY fit inside my Antec 1200. The two fans on the front are the Corsair SP120s. So it's really Push/half-pull. But I can easily clean my radiator in my case when I take the side-panel off because I don't use a can of air... I use an air compressor that pushes over 60PSI out of the nozzle. When you push that much air backwards through the radiator, all the dust comes out with it. It's quite easy to clear the dust from the case in that manner. I never had to remove my fans at all.
Then explain OCDTV's "Ultimate Corsair H100 Cooling Mod"
You do realize that video was a major troll... right ?
R4gnarokLPs and why is that?
Mootypotuty
Mostly the ending of that video, it was a joke :)
R4gnarokLPs he showed the temps tho. Was he really just making shit up lol?
Mootypotuty
yes he was :)
Its also worth noting that a 25-30mm gasket between the fan and the radiator will improve airflow and help negate the dead spot.
I seem to remember a test someone did a long time ago (pro-cooling forums maybe?) showing all the configs and the numbers supported push-pull > push > pull, however you do have a good point in that the improvement from push-pull might not justify the added noise and pull has the benefit of being easy to clean but being that you WILL be exhausting from the radiator if its an internal setup, by putting filters on all the input fans you can prevent dust build up in the first place ;)
And to the guys saying push-push or pull-pull unless you have counter rotating fans or a gasket with air straightening fins in between each fan you are wasting your time.
Who has room for a 3CM gap between the fans and the radiator?
***** Anyone not using a mITX form factor case I would expect ;)
Sorry I didn't realize you were including megatowers in your statement.
For the record, it will not fit in my case and allow the filter to fit on top. And it is not a mini itx either. A mid tower.
***** Yea it all comes down to case design, in the same way some may have to stick to 30mm radiators over 60+mm radiators, so far I haven't been limited in that respect.
..when do the cows come home?
Thursday
James Gilmour
Isn't that also when the Universe began, last week?
bluephreakr LAST THURSDAYISM!!!
bluephreakr yes, at about 02:00 AM
Alec Allard It's been years, The cows haven't come home, should I update my bios?
I'm sat here with my new H100 having the air pushed through it in my C70 case. I found this vid at the right time so I'll get it changed around tomorrow. Great vid, thumbs up and thanks for sharing.
i miss those old linus videos. kind of feels more personal, rather than the new clickbaity, "100000$ GRAPHICS CARD?!" linus.
A mix of Linus' shorter reviews and TTL's marathon reviews is so brilliant for keeping up with tech news :)
What are non pressure fans for
Just normal airflow, not for radiators
So do they move the same amount of air, just static pushes straight more?
Ahhh okay that makes sense.
+FroztiProductions Generally if im correct, you use AF fans on casing exhaust on the back and top *if you not using any liquid cool*, and casing intake at front *some case has drive bay near to the front and people recommend use SP fans instead*
Use sp fans for radiator and heatsinks fan if you wish to replace it.
+FroztiProductions SP for restricted spaces, AF for free space. Example: Let's take a Corsair 750D case with an h110i at the top configured as an exhaust, back fan as exhaust, front as intake. Front: If no drive cages or stuff tucked against the fans, AF, otherwise SP. Back exhaust unless used as a rad is usually exhaust airflow. Top is AF if no rad, exhaust, if radiator SP as push or pull exhaust. A little bit more positive pressure (intake) in the case is better than negative pressure (exhaust) for dust buildup, because negative pressure will pull in dust from unfiltered holes, while positive pressure will push the air out.
Been subscribed to Linus for a while now.. also inspired me to build my own PC.
Having finished my build about 3 months ago I decided that I need(want) a new case... disassembling my h80i revealed an insane amount of dust! When I upgrade the watercooling to a full loop I will definitely keep this in mind. Thanks again guys ;)
***** Having dust filters on all intakes helps a lot too. If the case you have now, buy in future, doesn't come with nifty removable filters, you can always slap on some after market ones. ;)
At 5:30 He said a German Word "Spiel" :D
what does it actually mean
The German word "Spiel" means in English Game :D
MSGamerLP oh, thanks
Again and again gladly
Habs auch gehört!
Square / Rectangle frame fans line up with the edges of the radiator. Their fan blades are as long as possible to force air through the cooling fins.
Standard fans are for general directional cooling / case air flow, they have shorter blades which don't give the same draw strength.
I think we all learned our lesson here, run fans however you want, don't buy a cat.
What about if I adopt a cat I found in an alley?
Woohoo! I have a dog.
I have a hamster...
Thanks Linus. I've had this same talk with friends and got many different answers but you summed it up nicely. I just got my first radiator cooling unit. I went with the H100i for my Fractal R4 case and had to watch a dozen or more videos before finally finding yours explaining why its so much better to pull air through from a cleaning perspective.
now, back in 2012 I don't even know there is a water cooler for computers xD but thanx to linus, I know more stuff than talking to people here, very tight lipped computer shops here. Now every time I go to a computer shop they frown upon my entrance xD
The only difference between push and pull is in the way the fans are positioned in relation to the radiator, not the way air actually flows.
So you can have a setup where you "make the air from inside the case go through the rad to expel it outside" with either push or pull.
Push means the fans are positioned below the rad, pushing the air directly into the rad. Pull means they are positioned above the rad, pushing air directly out of the case but at the same time pulling it through the rad.
damn. I wish I had seen this before setting my fans to push :/
Make sure your case has filters, and you will be fine. All you have to do clean the filters.
Answer me this one. My configuration is push pull from the outside of the case. What do you think would happen to your vehicle if you put the radiator in the back with no auxiliary venting and just asked the fan to push air from the cab thru it. Your cab would be hot and your vehicle would overheat. That's why the radiator is in the front so it catches cold air. Fans blowing outside cold air on the radiator will cool better than fans blowing/sucking hot air thru the radiator from the case.
I run push-pull because i got a good deal on non pressure optimized fans.
waste of energy.
Allen TKO ?
I run push pull, it helps, It Lowered my temps 10'C with the fans at 50 percent.. Its easy to clean, i just use my air compressor with a moister trap filter on it so i don't blow moister all over the inside my computer. That canned air crap is for the birds.
In a pull configuration, the first thing the air (including dust, hair, etc) is going to hit is the radiator. It is easier to clean a pull configuration because you can clean out the rad area with out the fan in the way. The rad is all you are concerned about cleaning, because that is where you need to airflow to cool the liquid. Sure there will be some dust on the fan on pull, but no nearly as much. The rad catches much more dust than the fan ever will. Make sense now?
ur a good man. but cats are not stupid.
The missing piece of info is what direction the air flow should go (inside to outside or outside to inside). Always go inside to outside to get hot air from the radiator out. Your other fans should bring colder air in with maybe one other fan moving air to the outside to balance things out. Just try to have good airflow where you have about the same number of fans moving air in as out.
2012 - Nvidia GeForce GTX 580
2017 - AMD Radeon RX 580
man, AMD is that far behind
Coming from 2021, still pandemic, where am I? Whoa, NCIX? What year is now?
PC enthusiast with a carpet floor ....
so you know im useing some of your videos for (with your title next to the link) for a one stop place in my 120mm sp fan line up on a couple different forums your is one of them thanks for the awesome videos they are very informative..keep it up cant wait to see what 2017 brings
Why is this dinosaur in my recommended lol
Thank you for your reply. I had a suspicion that controlling condensation might be a problem. I imagine that an enclosed nitrogen gas environment might control condensation; however, access to the motherboard, for upgrades and such, would then become more involved. It seems that air cooling and radiators are the more practical solution for cooling. I would like to find a practical way to cool the processor and maintain a negative Celsius temperature and be silent also.
look at all that money. to be able to mess and configure with unlimited hardware and software sources and im just. its my dream. and this was 3 years ago and I still got a i5 cpu. lol
+James Thebeau i'm currently using a pentium dual core. And i'm actually saving money to buy an i5.
Blatz430 Well its not to say its bad. But this is the last era of gaming I will actually be able to use this max. Best thing is to get your ram and a capable motherboard first.. lol which for me would even be the z97. i made a mistake and bought ram and a video card first and cant even overclock them on this motherboard and its a single 12v rail.
Linus, let me explain it better: two fans at the same RPM == same CFM as one fan but twice the power. Think of it like a car's gearbox. 1st gear == most power used, less performance (speed), 5th hear == less power used, biggest performance (speed). Now with fins and fans it's different, you just need to keep air moving such that the maximum heat transfer potential at the room's temperature is achieved. That doesn't mean speed. It actually means power to keep it moving through all those fins.
This video is ancient
I think the push/pull vs just push or pull argument is largely dependent on you radiator as well as your fans. The reason I say this is because I have a couple of Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans set up in push/pull with my NZXT Kraken X40. I recently tired taking off the push fan due to limited space in my case, but to be sure about the results I also ran Prime to check the difference in CPU temperatures. For this test I ran the fans at 100% to get as much airflow as possible, and thje results was staggering in my case. I recorded a whooping 12 degree Celcius in difference when running just pull instead of push/pull. I had a max temp at 57 degrees C while in Push/Pull and that raised all the way to 69 degrees C when just in Pull.
Granted; the Noctua NF-A14 might not be as pressures optimized as the NF-F12, but Noctua still markets them as pressure optimized fans. This is just something for people out there to think on.
De_dust2
Actually the pressure of the fan is determined by the blade pitch and RPM. The factory tries to balance these out for intended use and noise levels. Maybe one day they will offer variable pitch fans for computers but I have not seen one yet. One reason would be the cost to build one would be 5 times the average price. So they use variable speed controllers for now. To get the best cooling with water is to choose the best fluid that has high surface tension properties to draw heat into the fluid.
Alright this one finally got my sub! Not because it's the best, just because in research I found myself constantly pulling up your videos. Anyway, then I'm completing my build and couldn't a nice complete answer to what I was looking for until I pulled this up! Nice videos and thanks for all the tips!
The standard way to handle condensation seems to be covering the motherboard with some sort of nonconductive foam. And there are people that run systems well into the negatives 24/7, although I can't speak for the lifespans of their components.
I also have my radiator fan configured in pull. It seems to make the most sense since the radiator fan replaced my rear exhaust fan anyway. So that's where I have it mounted. Linus made a good point on how easy it was to clean the radiator. I had to clean mine a couple times so far. It's not a big deal. Just brush it off.
8 years and you've convinced me to do a pull.
Sure, because you're optimizing the static pressure between the fans and the rad. You're helping the air move through it more efficiently, but at the cost of higher energy consumption and noise levels. That, and you'll have to clean out the push side of the rad more often than the pull side or the extra fans aren't really doing you any good at all.
Because of the thickness of the h80i you will maybe see a few degrees higher operation with only one fan, but the most important thing is to keep the fan in pull configuration.
In short, it's fine
The only advantage I can think of for push vs pull or vica versa, would be choosing where your dust primarily builds up. If you are in push, the radiator gets all the dust, if you are in pull, the dust may get caught in an intake filter. So you can possibly make your case a little easier to clean, depending on the case and setup.
Gotta love those old POV videos Linus xD
Thank guys. I'm usually pretty good with hardware, but this actually helps my next build. I hadn't considered the newer fans and their capabilities, and had been thinking of going in the old push pull config.
the vents that channel the airflow after the air has been pushed by the blades don't make the fan bad for pull. If you think it's unacceptable to run a fan like the nf-f12 in pull then you can buy silverstone air filters which are available in various sizes. they are magnetic and you can attach them to the fan wihout having to onscrew the whole thing to remove and clean the dust filter
great video, glad to see linus is supporting the just pull configuration.
Love that intro love to see it for like anniversary videos
Thanks man! I was wondering about this for the past week and ran into your video! Thanks for showing me how much dust would build up!
Considering you're already using 2 fans in a push/pull configuration, switching to delta fans would be pointless and unnecessarily loud. Heat is absorbed by air at a specific rate and as such, air traveling at 50cfm or 250cfm won't change anything. Unless the ambient temp inside your case is hitting 70C and above (example) it may be worth it. Then again a simpler, quieter fan would do the same. The extra degree or two gained isn't going to get you any further in stability tests if you're OCing.
That would depend on whether or not the fans are using performance monitoring software / hardware to adjust the fans' RPM based on the temperature e.g., radiator. The fans performance is configured through monitoring software based on the users preferences. In my build I am using the fans that were provided with the H100i: additionally I am using Corsair link cable with the Corsair Link 2 software (my case is the Corsair Graphite Series 600T). Basically, higher temp = higher RPM and noise.
I could sit in that room you're at all day long man .. tons of hardware and awesome stuff
great video
Wow Linus thanks for the helpful tip! This really helped me, I was about to go push-pull. I really appreciate it.
I think you would get only the amount of airflow that your case would be able to exhaust though fan holes/ cracks in the seams of the case. Having a ton of fans just pumping air into it with no way for it to exhaust out won't make it work better. In fact it might make the airflow worse. You do want slightly more filtered air pumping in than exhausting to help keep the case clean inside but you can go overboard with no net gain after a certain point.
Linus did say something very important about push pull config. When it comes to cleaning it. You have to take it out of your case because of the dust. There no way for you to clean both sides unless if you take it out of the case. Fyi, this is just for those who care about being clean. If you don't oh well.
this is a good video to pre-warn people from doing the push configuration. I share the same opinion that it is always better to do a pull configuration unless there are hardware or space limitations
As a refrigeration service tech for a few years, PULL! For the exact reason he stated. From top of the line down to lower end less reliable units (maybe not all the super crappy units) the fans All pull air across the heat exchangers. (condenser and evaporator) These condensing coild plug up with dirt quick as they are running 5-50W fans on and off all day and all night. At places that have prep-table coolers, that dust gets kicked around and sucked up by those fans and into those coils. It then gets packed on there like a blanket (yes like grandma's thick blanket but made of dust 3/8" thick. and that's just in 4-6 months. Leave them un-maintained for 8+ and you'll be calling the local HVAC/R service company because the unit is running warm.) making the whole system work harder. (think running a marathon on a hot summer day with a sweater on) get a bristle brush (plastic bristle or softer. no metal) and a vacuum, brush that dust off into the vacuum hose, then get some compressed air (cans of duster, CO2, etc.) and blow backwards through the coil into the vacuum again and then blow forwards through the coil. The only way better to clean your radiators and coils is with a light pressure washing.
I also recommend a filter for your whole case where ever your intake is. Cheap filter from hardware store, foam pad, cut-to-size filter, w/e..... maybe not a coffee filter so much. Helps keep the whole setup much less dusty. Very nice.
On second thought, through a K&N on there for an overpriced boost of 2 HP to your CPU.
when in push dust will build up on the radiator side with the fans but with pull it just build up dust on the opposite side of the radiator to the fan, wither run pull, or push with dust filters
I have had the opposite experience. I have a Silverstone FT02 case that came with built in filters on the three 180mm intake fans. I have had it for about 2 years and only dusted it once. And looking in the window right now it is still virtually spotless inside right now. I clean the filters every 2 months or so and they are always totally full of dust they have stopped. My heatsinks on my GPU and CPU are still spotless thanks to my filters.
good thing you made this video because I have my h80 in the push/pull config and I definetly don't want that nasty dust in the radiator.
It was Overclock3D. And incase you weren't sure, it was a joke. You can't actually get below ambient temp without phase change, peltier, or liquid gas cooling.
i would just like to share my thoughts on this push/pull question, as linus says it makes it easier to clean but if you take a look at an ac unit for example, the 6kW or bigger ones that you can use for both heating and cooling. they use pull configuration since their radiator is bigger than the fan can cover in push configuration so they make a funnel the size of the radiator and size it down to the fan size with low tolerances very much like you can see on some car radiators, that way the smaller fan creates negative pressure between it and the radiator sucking air evenly across the entire radiator. if you however use the fan in push configuration the airflow is more centered wich makes the radiator as small as the fan, in the pc world radiators and fans are pretty much the same size so that will not make any noticable difference but in alot of other cases were the fan cannot be sized equal to the radiator, pull is the goto method, atleast that is enough along with the cleaning benefits to convince me that the pull configuration allways wins or is atleast equal.
I have been using a push / pull with two of these corsair 120sp fans. I actually got a fan filter for the rear of the case and don't have the problem with dust / cat hair getting into the radiator. When I air out the case I do stop the fans and hose inside the radiator.
I would think sucking in cooler outside air would be better.
Would depend on your setup. If everything is water cooled, then heat inside the case would be minimal and in fact it might be a plus to remove what little heat remains out. If you pump the heat inside the case, it could even heat the metal on the case which in turn would add even more heat to the radiator or atleast make it harder to cool. But as you say, you are pulling in cooler air in the situation that not everything is water cooled. But also think in that scenario that you are adding more heat to the items that aren't water cooled too.
Carl Kitchen Your case air temperatures would not vary much, if my knowledge is correct. If they did, you have an airflow problem in your chassis.
that'd be a bad idea because hot air rises, those top fan would trap the hot air inside by pushing it down again so yeah as far as intake vs exhaust goes it should be a matter of 1-5 degrees maybe a bit more in intense gaming but its harder to clean if you put the radiator as intake no matter if the fans are the front of it or at the back of it (you'll have to unscrew it) and general rule: front, bottom and (side depends on GPU cooler) should be in take, back and top exhaust
for De-Dusting, i use an air compressor with a Moisture catch (used for painting) and i spray at around 10-15 psi
Kraken X61 here with a 4790k and I've used a push config, pull config, and push/pull config. The results are the same. Idle 28 degrees and load at 43 degrees give or take a couple degrees within margin of error or negligible performance increase. I'm going to run it in PULL, radiator mounted on top of case to avoid that hassle of major dust build-up. Eff that!
if you notice, they do that on cars cause it cools them better and doesn't damage the blades. It's a win/win for pulling air cause if you push air through, the air turbulence from the fan blades hits the radiator and the air flow is slowed down before it makes it through the other side. 🙂
Joseph Long Thanks. Never thought of that before. Most people would consider this useless information, but now that I'm older and wiser, the most useless information are often the most useful. It can't be explained.
+Crunk Playa69 Exactly the same as mine, my temps atm with ts, skype, origin, CAM and a couple browsers on chrome 30-32 degrees. But the pc has been on for a while which allowed the liquid to warm up to 30 degrees.
Edit: radiator is mounted AT the top of case, not on it as is displayed in the video. Just to avoid any confusion.
Mine is also on the top, it barely fit :D i had to remove some drive bays for it. Its the h440w case.
There is no dust filter on top, so the radiator works as a dust filter in a way that it prevents dust from getting in to the computer to some extent. Its pushing in air because i wanted the extra air to blow out of the cracks instead of pulling air into the cracks (which would bring dust in).
Very funny. I´ve been watching Linus for years now and this is by far the oldest video ever seen by me. No Jake, no big cameras, just him doing Linus-Things... :D
can we labs test what kind of static pressure increases you'd get with a push pull config plz??
Surely push or pull matters because of temperature of the ambient air going through the radiators.
If you are pulling hot air from inside the pc through the rad, its different to you pushing colder air from outside into the radiator and then into the pc. Also the source of dust is more likely directly from outside, as most pc have some kind of filter for air entering the case from the front, or underneath.
Also 'push pull', has the corresponding 'pull push' mode, e.g. Whether the air is travelling in through the radiator, or from the case to the radiator. I would like to see this question revisited, please.
The real question is expelling radiator (CPU) heat into the case or out of the case. Internal case temps higher would increase heat on MBOB and GPU. That is my question, yet all I find are videos addressing fans and radiators. Tough to be aware of and clean a push configuration, so I am a NO vote on that. Heat into or out of case? Logic would say out.