I see the problem! Go to 4:33 To the left of your fingers you can see where the wobble box has been welded up... Quite sure that is where your misalignment is occuring. The wobble shakes the crap out of the machine and I imagine the thing was coming apart and a previous owner "repaired it". Hate to say it but that is going to take an above average skilled welder to cut it out and reinstall.perfectly square..... I looked on the Deere Parts site and they offer a repair kit. called : Knife Drive Case Mounting Repair Kit : Maybe that's what you need to repair it. Found it under the caption header frame
As others (goodman, muncy etc) have noted, the Mount for the 'wobble' box has been welded and the 2 welds appear to be cracking. Cracks will propagate further and must be totally ground out for repair. Put a bar under that mount and see if you can move it. You might also check the fasteners for tightness from mount to 'Wobble Box'. Pitman arm must travel straight and Level at the connection to the bar. That should be correct before re welding. A quickie fix may be to get some 0.004" shim stock and slide it under the Wobble Box where it connects to the bracket on the appropriate side. Stack shims as required.
The opposite end of the sickle bar looks like it is missing the hole that it is suppose to go through and is hitting the side. There are dents in the sickle bar where it has been hitting. So something is slightly out of line! Every time that hits it is causing back pressure and something has to give.
I remember on my uncles JD mower, first the pitman arm bent, which threw the cutting bar out of alignment. Then the guide at the far end went then the cutting bar snapped in the same 2 places as yours, and it does look like your pitman arm is bent a bit. It should not be touching the top of the hole it comes out there.
I agree, its what one of them said! I've never worked on one so I dont know. Its snapping where the most load is but is it a bad angle ( pitman arm or part ) problem or metal fatigue ( grass not fully clipped/too much stress on the bar ) type problem. I would probably check out that pitman arm and its complete movement before buying a new bar. Just glad I'm sitting here not having to figure that one out! Good luck! Take care.
Here’s my two cents unhook the PTO grab the belt that runs the wobble box turn it back-and-forth an inch or two, IF THERE IS ANY PLAY at all in the joints or wobble box there’s your problem. The play acts like a hammer eventually braking the joint. You should be able to slide the knife back and forth by hand where it runs.
My story of my summer with my 1219 and my sicklehead! I stumbled across your channel and followed along you're haybine videos, since I was looking for one myself through the winter and this spring I pulled the trigger on a jd 1219 i liked too! I don't have much hay ground just a couple of Acres of field and about 2 miles worth of ditch hay I do. I cut about a half acre picked up a huge rock ended up breaking a guard and a couple sections and shortly after I fixed those the sickle head broke. Welded it back up it lasted another acre and a half about of hay..cutting along in a ditch was unfamiliar with cut the dirt a couple times and I snapped it again. Welded it up a third time same thing, maybe caught a little dirt here, or there..I wasn't familiar with the terrain. I then decide to look into it more replaced 6 wear plates a few guards and replaced every section where the head is to underserated blades.. since thick grass pulls on serrated blades and stresses them...boom..snapped again.. so what I ended up seeing was the pin had some play in the pitman arm.. [i'm unsure if the inside of my pitman arm is worn or not] so I measured the pin and the top half the pin that sits in the pitman arm was worn more than the bottom half where the pin sits in the head. So I replaced the pin, bolt and got a new sickle head everything was nice and tight! No wobbling and had 0 play at all! So far I cut a little over an acre and a half and I have not broken it yet! I really hope I solved the issue but I have my doubts.. we have some nice weather coming this week, all Sunshine! So I'll be cutting some more ditch hay soon. 🤞🏻 Wow I wrote a book!
@@This1LifeWeLive for sure! I probably wouldn't have but it was right across the road from me and no one had ever cut it to my knowledge. I also forgot to mention it was after catching the ground there I realized my haybine didn't have skid shoes under it at all, so I fabricated some and after that I haven't had those issues!
For your bar to be stress cracking the way it is , means that the pitman arm is making the end if the cutter bar work up and down thus causing the end of the cutter bar to work in the wrong way. So not only is the pitman coupling making the bar travel in a horizontal motion, it is also causing the cutter bar to try and move in a vertical motion !! My thinkinking is that you need to compare the pitman arm with anew one and find out if it has been bent at some stage, or just go ahead and replace the arm !!
Pitman arm looks like it has a slight twist in it, when it pulls to the left its pulling upward, when it pushes right its pushing down, explains why the cutter bar is cracking in two places.
As a test, run the mower for 15 minutes, turn OFF the Tractor and carefully feel with bare fingers or IR device to see if one area is warmer than the other. That would indicate where it is flexing. The mount for the gearbox may be out of alignment. With the bar out, check the height of that pitman at each end of its' travel. There should be no change in height and it should align with the height of the bearing on the end of the bar. Bar should slide quite easily. Carefully grind back the area that it is hitting on. Not much. Perhaps the bar is too tight on the first couple of cutting teeth.
Hey Farm Girl.............I agree with all the comments submitted and need to be checked as suggested. If you asked me to the farm, the first thing I would do is remove the wobble drive belt. I would turn by hand to see IF there are ANY tightness beyond the effort to turn the pulley. If somewhere along the "sickle stroke travel " it gets harder to turn and then frees up.........there is something causing a bind, this will translate to a "pounding action" like swinging a sledge hammer. That pounding could be the cause the knife head to break. The next thing to consider.......does the knife arm on the wobble box travel back and forth in the "SAME PLANE", meaning on the down stoke does it rises "up " and on the up stroke does swing "down" if that be the case............your wobble drive box is out of alignment while stroking the sickle bar. NOTE: I would have disconnected the knife head from the wobble drive arm. I want to see what the wobble arm does on its own. Finally, check to see if there is ANY LOST MOTION between the wobble arm and the pulley by rocking the pulley back and forth. Now there will be loss motion when the wobble bearing and housing rocks "over center" inside. I am saying loss motion BEFORE the over center position, whether it is on the up or down stroke. That again a "pounding action" you can't allow. As field engineer this comes from years of dealing with wobble drives on combine grain tables. There is a cause you just have to find it !!!! Hope this helps !! :)
@@mikegoodman447 there is always a reason why things break or fail. This haybine sickle drive has been an on going problem for her. I don't know where she is located otherwise I would come out retirement to help if it weren't too far away.
Have you considered rigging up a front hitch on the loader? Makes positioning equipment in tight doorways SO much easier. My Grain drill actually has to go in at a bit of an angle or the bearing caps hit the door jambs. Perhaps a clamp on rig on the forks
Suz I think you just need a wider barn door and you’ll get it in on the first try. Looking forward to seeing part two. Thanks for sharing hope all is well 😊
With your hay production, if the budget allows I would look into a disc mower. You can cut way faster and cleaner. Let it down when you get in the field and never pick it up till you leave the field. Easy to maintain and low maintenance. You can pretty much travel as fast as the ground allows you. Going into winter would be a good time to purchase. 7k or under would buy a fair machine
In you slow motion part, it appears the sickle is slightly out of register. The sections go past center of the guards when going away from the wobble box, and not quite to the center when coming back. That could be from the wobble box repair weld, or maybe that pitman is bent some? It seems to me, you have several things out of wack. IMO, it's always harder to diagnose the problem, when there are multiple contributing factors.
Check your register on that sickle and make sure it is right. Also he k wear plate .it looks like that sickle is moving in a backward.direction when cutting. When pitman break it normally means something is binding the bar and putting undue stress on the sickle. This will also happen if your register is not adjusted correctly
@@This1LifeWeLive How long did it last before it snapped ?, It may be snapping preventing internal problems,,, when I worked on CAT equipment, cutting edges (Dozers, Graders, Backhoe buckets, etc. were wear items , replaceable, not rebuildable) I would compare the old cutter bar to a new one side by side and document your findings, maybe talk to other owners about the problem, not worth grey hair.
I thought you had it when you welded it, didn't realize it was cracking again, , something has to be hitting wrong to keep breaking it, kinda like out of time,is the bar able to go all the way through?, it looks good, but it almost acts like it's hitting something or binding up, have you tried reaching out to Wes Pandy?
does the gear box have play ? if it does it will yank on the sickel instead of a smooth back and forth movement l ran into this with wobble box drives on grain heads on combines!!
I'd say most likely metal fatigue of that arm joint where it's been welded. Unfortunately, a lot of times metal will crack next to (right alongside) there the weld bead is. I can't tell by the video if there's three rivets or bolts holding that to the bar, (or, worse case, if that's the whole bar,) but I would recommend changing out that link with a fresh one. Looks like everything else was running properly, but that link takes a LOT of abuse with all that back-and-forth motion!
check the wobble box for play . play axes like a hammer on new hollands you can tighten them up brother in law old one kept taking out the bushings and breaking the bolt on his before we figured it out
It looks like your knife is just a bit out of register. It pushes out to the right end of the machine a bit too far & does not come back all the way on the return stroke. So, it's possible the knife isn't cutting at the tip on that return stroke. Might have hay bunching up there & causing a strain on the knife &/or knife head. If the rollers for the reel are exposed on the left side of the machine, that makes me wonder if the frame is tweaked or bent on that side. Don't know the story behind that issue about what causes it to be that way. Did you look in the manual to see if the gearbox that drives the knife needs to be shimmed to run the knife straight? Also, if I could request a video, I'd like to see slo mo footage from the area where the knife keeps cracking. Left side down by the knife drive like you did for the right & one from straight on in the front. Doesn't need to be a long Hollywierd produced video. Just 20 - 30 seconds from each viewpoint would do.
Think you are onto it . It's out of register it over throws on one side under throws the other . One spline out maybe .ore bent arm .key way .go get em farm girl . You can do it .
I look at my 1209 and measured the distance between the Pittman arm and the steel plate the gearbox bolts to . I had 1/4 of a inch clearance. I also laid a straight edge on top of the Pittman arm back to the gearbox and measured down to the steel plate and that was 1/4" of a inch clearance to. I think your Pittman arm is bent up or twisted . I would get a new Pittman arm just to compare how it looks. I hope you understand my measurements.
i think the arm is bent also.. If it was bent the arm would not be in line with the sickle bar and actually be flexing the bar on each stroke. I think if you disconnected the wobble box from the drive and operated it by hand you could actually see the misalignment. Hopefully your slow mo will show it. Replace the arm and recheck.....The shaft might be bent as well, but let's hope not.
I still say the wable box is either los or the bearings are worn in it . But i still hope you get it figured out. And let us know .🤗😊🌎🌞💝💝👍👍👍🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
So watching at 7:34, you can see the sickle is sloppy. Looks like guides/shims arent adjusted correctly. If its doing that at low rpm and no load. Imagine what its doing at higher rpm and grass going through. I bet that sickle is jumping and bucking all over the place and maybe getting jammed when loaded. I never slowed one down to watch, but im pretty sure thats a no no. It should just go back and forth, not out, then forward, then in then backwards. Its running in 4 axis, not 2 axis. Maybe its suppose to? But i doubt it.
This is a 1219, yes? That end sickle section looks wrong. Why does the first segment not have a cutting edge? That section should be John Deere part number E75474, IIRC. Look at @3:20, there is NO cutting edge at all! This will likely bunch up grass and cause stress right where the welds are. Your LH (Left Hand) end section is wrong, by the looks of it! (Not true; see correction below....) ADDED: okay, I looked at the manual and some parts lists and there seems to be conflicting information as to how that end section is supposed to look like. Let me take a look at our 1219 in the morning to verify. (BTW, we're running a 1219 without issues for 3 seasons now....haven't even replaced any of the sickle sections yet...) ADDED #2: checked our machine, and there really is this non-cutting half-blade in this LH position. So obviously this is NOT the issue here with sickles braking. Very odd....
The bar came right from John deere, but they do have multiple parts for the same areas, and they are not exactly sure why. Hence why mine has 2 different wear plates :(
@@This1LifeWeLive Yes, this is really strange. Even the manual I have of the 1219 shows TWO different versions (without explanation) on the same page! Like I wrote though, ours looks exactly like yours (non-cutting end section) and works fine, so the problem is likely elsewhere? Best of luck figuring it out!
YEP, like Ken Yh and a few others I would bet it is the far side. looks like when it comes out it is hitting and bouncing back towards the rear of the slide. My 2 cents.
The 1219 is a relic . You guys want to be in the hay business you need a discbine . I have been working on hay equipment for over 40 years and I do not miss sickle machines and there problems . Keep up the great videos
My best advice is to sell the sickle mower and upgrade to a disc mower. It’s more forgiving with ant mounds. Way less adjustments. As long as you have sharp blades you are good to go. With your acreage you will make a few cuts on a set of blades. Did I mention you can cut at 6 MPH or how ever fast the smoothness of your field allows. The only downside to a three point mounted mower is hooking it up. After you learn the tricks of your specific mower it’s easy. Of course a caddy or drawbar pull disc mower would be like your current sickle mower. It would be a game changing upgrade to your operation. I run a krone AM403. It’s an oldie but reliable!
Disc Mowers are the way to go for sure, but let's not forget that these Haybines (using a sickle) were THE standard for many years and successfully mowed (and continue to mow) millions of acres. There shouldn't be a reason why this Haybine shouldn't function as intended, and that it can't be fixed/repaired to give satisfactory cutting performance.
Nice picture on your September calendar page but why are You not in it? As I have mentioned before, I believe your bar is failing from Metal Fatigue. A slow motion shot of the area in question would have been good but be very careful around rotating equipment. I think the 'wobble arm' (Pitman) may be misaligned with the bar causing it to move UP and DOWN at the end on each cycle. Enough bending and it cracks at the weakest point. Cracks must be FULLY ground out in V shape before welding. Loosen off that bolt enough and wedge the slot open then move the assembly back and forth and see if the connection bearing moves up and down in the hole. Measure from a solid surface on the ground to see how much it moves up and down. There should be NO Vertical movement in the cycle. If that gear box is not solidly bolted, allowing it to move slightly, that could be the problem. Is there a Tech Guy at your JD dealership that could help? You have likely tried that. Two cracks indicate to me that there is considerable flexing going on so be sure the bar moves freely by hand. Reinforcing material should be Stitch welded (1/2" gaps) and extend as far as possible down the bar. Your ground speed when mowing seems quite fast.
I rewatched the video at .25 speed and on the big screen. It's the pitman end, not the open end. The pitman is erratic and when you combine that with full swath being cut, it's going to overstress that pitman to bar connection.
Yep it's one end or the other. Your left side end is over-reaching and striking the end of the machine. Since the hold-downs clamp the bar in place until it reaches the pitman side, the first place the stress can be relieved is outside the hold-downs on the pitman end. This is probably a case of the pitman traveling too far in it's eccentric, (one of the parts in the pitman transmission are the wrong size) or the sickle bar is about an inch too long. Every time you weld it, you run the risk of making it longer yet. I didn't get a good slow-motion look at the pitman transmission, so it's tough to tell if that's where the trouble is, or just in the overall length of the cutter bar. But will bet a dime to a donut that your hold-downs and guides are not causing the problem. My first guess was always that the pitman has been replaced/repaired and the part that was swapped was pretty close, but not quite right.
I was thinking the same thing with her long hair hanging down. That pto shaft will pull her head down so fast she wouldn’t know what happened if her hair got caught in it I’ve seen a girl get her hair caught in a grinder not good. Tie up that hair. Please, wouldn’t want to see you hurt.
I agree its a pitman problem. any slop or twist is going to be hard on the sickle. As far as backing up goes, remember you are driving the mower--not the tractor. Be one with the mower, Luke...
Pure speculation, but it would appear that the end of the sickle bar that holds the pin is not alignment tolerance of the pitman arm clamp. Or perhaps the mounting plate that the wobble box is sitting on may be bent. This would cause the pitman arm to move up and down as it traveled from left to right. One thing to make certain of when you have the sickle bar welded, do not quench it with liquid. This would increase harness of the steel making it more brittle and prone to stress fractures. Let it cool down naturally. A possible fix for your predicament is to weld a very heavy duty Himes ball joint to the end of the sickle bar. This would allow for multiple axis of movement and accommodate a lot of miss alignment of other components.
Having too much horsepower ( tractor ) may be much of your problems ! Machines are rated for horsepower both minimum and maximum ! Too much power will snap that sickle , something has too give
Excellent point! I hadn't thought of that. Determine what the Maximum horsepower the mower was designed to be powered by at the time it was sold, de-rate it by 10% for age and wear, and I'm sure that the Minimum output of your much, much newer tractor far exceeds that. It may be as simple as that.
@@JAB00777 Okay let's say you're right. What is she cutting that would put that much strain on the bar itself? All of my teenage yrs were spent cutting, raking, baling hay. Put in my time with a sickle bar. Hated the damn thing, but never once did i break a bar. Here in south Texas it's not uncommon for small mesquite and other brush to pop up in a hay field. Cut them right off without a problem. And it was all done with 150 hp tractor. My point is from what i've seen her cut, no way hp is repeatedly breaking that bar.
Can't you slow that tractor to idle with the PTO engaged? It seems to me that the sickle bar should have some type of connection to allow for angular movement on the end. Like a ball joint in a car. With the sickle bar removed, put something under the pitman arm to see if it moves up and down as well as side to side as it operates. You can probably turn the power take off by hand. Then clamp a straight piece of metal inside the hole in the arm that's long enough so you can see if it stays perfectly vertical as it moves from side to side. Overall, it just looks like a poor design but it is a John Deere. There are combine heads with 40 ft and longer sickle bars that don't break constantly.
Problem Found! I noticed in your slow mo videos ( that I slowed down as well) the sickle bar is moving to far to the left as viewed. I noticed the cutter blade travels further that way than to the right. I then went back to an earlier video ua-cam.com/video/mIsrFgO91l0/v-deo.html At 19:00 on that video you had to grind down the bar so the bar could make the full travel. So I found a problem> the blade is traveling to far left. Since I have no cutter experience I can only assume a few things. One the knife drive arm is bent, or timing is out of wack. Dang, I forgot what I win for figuring it out.
We ground out a guard that sits over it, John deere was out of stock but its possible it might not be enough... but maybe not the full cause of breakage since we just put that on last year 😕 but the travel distance is something to check for sure!
@@This1LifeWeLive Come on Suz.... a year ago when U had U-joint/pto shaft trouble w/ that thing I mentioned that U forgot the most important part, "the safety shield" please, please dont make light of pto safety shields. Look up the dangers, spend the few bucks for a new shield & put it on properly. As far as the sickle head breaking, the stroke does not go past the stub guards the same distance each way, maybe the pitman arm is off a spline tooth on it's shaft. Ask to talk to the most experienced haybine mechanic at your JD dealer & explain whats going on w/ it. He will be able to shed some light on what to check & look for. Good luck.
I'm not an engineer but I know the metal is not as strong as the weld it's self so the bar will continue to crack along the edge of the weld. I think it's breaking because of the cyclic load, again I'm not an engineer but Eaton Hodgkinson was way back in the day and he did extensive studies on cyclic load and metal work fatigue. With the rate of speed and the weight of the cutter and all of its teeth that's a lot of cyclic load over a 5, 10, or even a 15 year time period. I've seen logging chains that are rated for heavy loads break after spending their entire life time picking up small loads. I hate to say this but I think y'all are going to have to bite the bullet and purchase a new bar or just keep welding that one up. My final answer is metal fatigue caused by the weakening of a material by cyclic loading that results in progressive and localized structural damage and the growth of cracks. The crack will continue to grow until it reaches a critical size, which occurs when the stress intensity factor of the crack exceeds the fracture toughness of the material, producing rapid propagation and typically complete fracture of the structure. Before I bought a new bar I would consider adjusting the grass fin a little forward on the (what I call the passenger side of the tractor) I'm not 100% sure but it looks like it's making slight contact with the cutting bar. This is just my theory on why the bar breaks at the welds, again I'm not an engineer I just have exuberant amounts of free time to read because of the MACARONA so take my theory with a grain of salt and don't run out to buy a new $300 bar because I said it's metal fatigue. I'm changing my official answer, it's probably breaking because your not eating bacon before your cutting hay!
Nice try. But she has a stack of sickle bars from buying new ones every year. That one was welded to finish a field. Something is wore out, causing them to break.
Hello Wtfarmgirl, how long have you had that haybine? I'm no mechanical genius but it could be the PTO shaft, you ever heard of Oliver66farmboy channel? I'm subscribed to his channel too, is it warm there in Michigan, its nice and cool here, I had lunch at the DQ in Hawley MN I had the bbq chicken strips, you like Florida-Georga line? Those guys are awesome, also like Lauren Alaina Jon Pardi, Gabby Barrett And Ashley Mcbryde the other day I was at the checkout line at Walmart in Detroit Lakes and I saw some gal wi6 her son and this lady looked like you, had to give her another look and no it wasn't the Wtfarmgirl, everyone has a twin out there lol😀 looks like you had several tries before you got your haybine in the barn, any sign of of the old lady lately? 👵
Opposite end of pittman the blade is moving as said.. your missing a single hold down from what I see..to keep that blade in place.. I have 1209.. dont really know the difference as they look very much the same.. I use different hold downs and guards..but dont think thats your problem either..as previously stated
The misuse of break and brake seems to be a recent phenomenon and I see it in everything including newspaper articles. There, their and they're, to two and too are some others. Have the schools gotten that bad since I went to school?
take the pivot off the arm and bar then move both arm and bar through the travel and check distance between them at both ends of the stroke there should be very small distance between them at both ends
😭 I miss playing Minecraft! I've been so slammed with work I don't get any down time :( HOPING that will change once I get (hopefully) my office . . . then I'll be back at Noob Girl Videos :)
Hay Farm Girl 👧 too bad you don’t live next door. That arm is too small for it’s purpose. That’s why it keeps breaking. I fix that sort of thing. I redesign it in a manner fit for the job intended. Basically you need that actuator beefed up 👍
Knife assembly uses no cast iron. Breakage of this knife is simple. The hold downs on the stub guards are probably adjusted too tight. Unhook the knife and see if you can slide it in and out by hand. It may require a strong arm but it should move. You should have ditched those stub guard setups in the first place and used regular guards. Much easier for beginners like you. Stub guards require a lot of fussing and experience to get set right
I see the problem! Go to 4:33 To the left of your fingers you can see where the wobble box has been welded up... Quite sure that is where your misalignment is occuring. The wobble shakes the crap out of the machine and I imagine the thing was coming apart and a previous owner "repaired it". Hate to say it but that is going to take an above average skilled welder to cut it out and reinstall.perfectly square..... I looked on the Deere Parts site and they offer a repair kit. called : Knife Drive Case Mounting Repair Kit : Maybe that's what you need to repair it. Found it under the caption header frame
I love watching your vids, after my husband goes to work, your my [stress reliever] : ]
:D Well that's good to hear!
Great video 👍
As others (goodman, muncy etc) have noted, the Mount for the 'wobble' box has been welded and the 2 welds appear to be cracking. Cracks will propagate further and must be totally ground out for repair. Put a bar under that mount and see if you can move it. You might also check the fasteners for tightness from mount to 'Wobble Box'.
Pitman arm must travel straight and Level at the connection to the bar. That should be correct before re welding.
A quickie fix may be to get some 0.004" shim stock and slide it under the Wobble Box where it connects to the bracket on the appropriate side. Stack shims as required.
Thank you Lord for blessing us with this little sunshine of a Michigan girl
The opposite end of the sickle bar looks like it is missing the hole that it is suppose to go through and is hitting the side. There are dents in the sickle bar where it has been hitting. So something is slightly out of line! Every time that hits it is causing back pressure and something has to give.
Yeah I noticed when it reaches the end of the stroke it moves toward the back like it is being pushed . hitting something at the very end?
I remember on my uncles JD mower, first the pitman arm bent, which threw the cutting bar out of alignment. Then the guide at the far end went then the cutting bar snapped in the same 2 places as yours, and it does look like your pitman arm is bent a bit. It should not be touching the top of the hole it comes out there.
The sickle bar needs to be able to work back and forth by hand without any stress points.
Most people would have just shown the perfect back-in lol...way to be real 👌
I agree, its what one of them said!
I've never worked on one so I dont know. Its snapping where the most load is but is it a bad angle ( pitman arm or part ) problem or metal fatigue ( grass not fully clipped/too much stress on the bar ) type problem. I would probably check out that pitman arm and its complete movement before buying a new bar.
Just glad I'm sitting here not having to figure that one out! Good luck!
Take care.
I'm going with the pitman arm as the initial culprit....or possibly the flux capacitor....
😂 totally the flux capacitor 😄
Here’s my two cents unhook the PTO grab the belt that runs the wobble box turn it back-and-forth an inch or two, IF THERE IS ANY PLAY at all in the joints or wobble box there’s your problem. The play acts like a hammer eventually braking the joint. You should be able to slide the knife back and forth by hand where it runs.
I took a video of that today, so I'll let you be the judge on Friday's video :)
I'm wondering if this is the same gearbox that was full of metal shavings last year?🤔
My story of my summer with my 1219 and my sicklehead!
I stumbled across your channel and followed along you're haybine videos, since I was looking for one myself through the winter and this spring I pulled the trigger on a jd 1219 i liked too! I don't have much hay ground just a couple of Acres of field and about 2 miles worth of ditch hay I do. I cut about a half acre picked up a huge rock ended up breaking a guard and a couple sections and shortly after I fixed those the sickle head broke. Welded it back up it lasted another acre and a half about of hay..cutting along in a ditch was unfamiliar with cut the dirt a couple times and I snapped it again. Welded it up a third time same thing, maybe caught a little dirt here, or there..I wasn't familiar with the terrain. I then decide to look into it more replaced 6 wear plates a few guards and replaced every section where the head is to underserated blades.. since thick grass pulls on serrated blades and stresses them...boom..snapped again.. so what I ended up seeing was the pin had some play in the pitman arm.. [i'm unsure if the inside of my pitman arm is worn or not] so I measured the pin and the top half the pin that sits in the pitman arm was worn more than the bottom half where the pin sits in the head. So I replaced the pin, bolt and got a new sickle head everything was nice and tight! No wobbling and had 0 play at all! So far I cut a little over an acre and a half and I have not broken it yet! I really hope I solved the issue but I have my doubts.. we have some nice weather coming this week, all Sunshine! So I'll be cutting some more ditch hay soon. 🤞🏻
Wow I wrote a book!
OH gosh, for that reason I don't offer to cut fields I don't know personally!
@@This1LifeWeLive for sure! I probably wouldn't have but it was right across the road from me and no one had ever cut it to my knowledge. I also forgot to mention it was after catching the ground there I realized my haybine didn't have skid shoes under it at all, so I fabricated some and after that I haven't had those issues!
For your bar to be stress cracking the way it is , means that the pitman arm is making the end if the cutter bar work up and down thus causing the end of the cutter bar to work in the wrong way.
So not only is the pitman coupling making the bar travel in a horizontal motion, it is also causing the cutter bar to try and move in a vertical motion !!
My thinkinking is that you need to compare the pitman arm with anew one and find out if it has been bent at some stage, or just go ahead and replace the arm !!
Pitman arm looks like it has a slight twist in it, when it pulls to the left its pulling upward, when it pushes right its pushing down, explains why the cutter bar is cracking in two places.
As a test, run the mower for 15 minutes, turn OFF the Tractor and carefully feel with bare fingers or IR device to see if one area is warmer than the other. That would indicate where it is flexing. The mount for the gearbox may be out of alignment. With the bar out, check the height of that pitman at each end of its' travel. There should be no change in height and it should align with the height of the bearing on the end of the bar. Bar should slide quite easily. Carefully grind back the area that it is hitting on. Not much. Perhaps the bar is too tight on the first couple of cutting teeth.
Seeing the cutter in slow mo was neat. Amazing how finely tuned everything has to be for it to work properly
Hey Farm Girl.............I agree with all the comments submitted and need to be checked as suggested. If you asked me to the farm, the first thing I would do is remove the wobble drive belt. I would turn by hand to see IF there are ANY tightness beyond the effort to turn the pulley. If somewhere along the "sickle stroke travel " it gets harder to turn and then frees up.........there is something causing a bind, this will translate to a "pounding action" like swinging a sledge hammer. That pounding could be the cause the knife head to break.
The next thing to consider.......does the knife arm on the wobble box travel back and forth in the "SAME PLANE", meaning on the down stoke does it rises "up " and on the up stroke does swing "down" if that be the case............your wobble drive box is out of alignment while stroking the sickle bar. NOTE: I would have disconnected the knife head from the wobble drive arm. I want to see what the wobble arm does on its own. Finally, check to see if there is ANY LOST MOTION between the wobble arm and the pulley by rocking the pulley back and forth. Now there will be loss motion when the wobble bearing and housing rocks "over center" inside. I am saying loss motion BEFORE the over center position, whether it is on the up or down stroke. That again a "pounding action" you can't allow. As field engineer this comes from years of dealing with wobble drives on combine grain tables. There is a cause you just have to find it !!!! Hope this helps !! :)
Sounds like a good plan to me. ^^^
@@mikegoodman447 there is always a reason why things break or fail. This haybine sickle drive has been an on going problem for her. I don't know where she is located otherwise I would come out retirement to help if it weren't too far away.
Have you considered rigging up a front hitch on the loader? Makes positioning equipment in tight doorways SO much easier. My Grain drill actually has to go in at a bit of an angle or the bearing caps hit the door jambs. Perhaps a clamp on rig on the forks
Ha! That's a great idea!
Major problem, It's a Johndeer !!!! LOL!!!!!!
Suz I think you just need a wider barn door and you’ll get it in on the first try. Looking forward to seeing part two. Thanks for sharing hope all is well 😊
Hi good morning happy year God bless 2021🙏🙏👍✌✌❤🤠
With your hay production, if the budget allows I would look into a disc mower. You can cut way faster and cleaner. Let it down when you get in the field and never pick it up till you leave the field. Easy to maintain and low maintenance. You can pretty much travel as fast as the ground allows you. Going into winter would be a good time to purchase. 7k or under would buy a fair machine
May want to try replacing the wobble box arm
Replace arm and pin we had that same problem with ours
Great vids 💚
check the hold down shims and shims in guards
In you slow motion part, it appears the sickle is slightly out of register. The sections go past center of the guards when going away from the wobble box, and not quite to the center when coming back. That could be from the wobble box repair weld, or maybe that pitman is bent some? It seems to me, you have several things out of wack. IMO, it's always harder to diagnose the problem, when there are multiple contributing factors.
Check your register on that sickle and make sure it is right. Also he k wear plate .it looks like that sickle is moving in a backward.direction when cutting. When pitman break it normally means something is binding the bar and putting undue stress on the sickle. This will also happen if your register is not adjusted correctly
Is this the right sickle bar ?, not a generic (cheaper) one ?, Dealer switcharoo ?
This one was direct order from John Deere last year :(
@@This1LifeWeLive How long did it last before it snapped ?, It may be snapping preventing internal problems,,, when I worked on CAT equipment, cutting edges (Dozers, Graders, Backhoe buckets, etc. were wear items , replaceable, not rebuildable) I would compare the old cutter bar to a new one side by side and document your findings, maybe talk to other owners about the problem, not worth grey hair.
Mine did the same thing I replaced the wobble arm
Great vid! It seems to be bent and not true
I thought you had it when you welded it, didn't realize it was cracking again, , something has to be hitting wrong to keep breaking it, kinda like out of time,is the bar able to go all the way through?, it looks good, but it almost acts like it's hitting something or binding up, have you tried reaching out to Wes Pandy?
I might have to for the baler . . .
That wood is still there I almost backed over it. LOL
That's earens bike ramp :D
Lack of bushings for shock absorption
I have played that back up game a number of times.
does the gear box have play ? if it does it will yank on the sickel instead of a smooth back and forth movement l ran into this with wobble box drives on grain heads on combines!!
I'd say most likely metal fatigue of that arm joint where it's been welded. Unfortunately, a lot of times metal will crack next to (right alongside) there the weld bead is. I can't tell by the video if there's three rivets or bolts holding that to the bar, (or, worse case, if that's the whole bar,) but I would recommend changing out that link with a fresh one. Looks like everything else was running properly, but that link takes a LOT of abuse with all that back-and-forth motion!
check the wobble box for play . play axes like a hammer on new hollands you can tighten them up brother in law old one kept taking out the bushings and breaking the bolt on his before we figured it out
Maybe pitman arm is misaligned on the spline by one tooth in either direction.
The pitman arm may be travelling too long a stroke is there any ware on the back edge of the blade
yes! I noticed it last cut but will pull it off today and show in the next video
Hey WT Farm Girl!👋😅❤👍
Fingers crossed that it holds
If the pitman arm is moving in an arc the pitman shaft is bent. The arm moving in an arc will flex the end of the sickle bar and eventually break it
It looks like your knife is just a bit out of register. It pushes out to the right end of the machine a bit too far & does not come back all the way on the return stroke. So, it's possible the knife isn't cutting at the tip on that return stroke. Might have hay bunching up there & causing a strain on the knife &/or knife head. If the rollers for the reel are exposed on the left side of the machine, that makes me wonder if the frame is tweaked or bent on that side. Don't know the story behind that issue about what causes it to be that way. Did you look in the manual to see if the gearbox that drives the knife needs to be shimmed to run the knife straight? Also, if I could request a video, I'd like to see slo mo footage from the area where the knife keeps cracking. Left side down by the knife drive like you did for the right & one from straight on in the front. Doesn't need to be a long Hollywierd produced video. Just 20 - 30 seconds from each viewpoint would do.
I concur.
Think you are onto it . It's out of register it over throws on one side under throws the other . One spline out maybe .ore bent arm .key way .go get em farm girl . You can do it .
What they said^^^
I look at my 1209 and measured the distance between the Pittman arm and the steel plate the gearbox bolts to . I had 1/4 of a inch clearance. I also laid a straight edge on top of the Pittman arm back to the gearbox and measured down to the steel plate and that was 1/4" of a inch clearance to. I think your Pittman arm is bent up or twisted . I would get a new Pittman arm just to compare how it looks. I hope you understand my measurements.
I will take a look, thanks!
i think the arm is bent also.. If it was bent the arm would not be in line with the sickle bar and actually be flexing the bar on each stroke. I think if you disconnected the wobble box from the drive and operated it by hand you could actually see the misalignment. Hopefully your slow mo will show it. Replace the arm and recheck.....The shaft might be bent as well, but let's hope not.
I still say the wable box is either los or the bearings are worn in it .
But i still hope you get it figured out.
And let us know .🤗😊🌎🌞💝💝👍👍👍🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
Are you sure that the PTO speed is correct IE 540 vs 1000
Looks to be a little out of time but it’s hard to see. Check the forward and back movement of the sickle in the guard make sure their is not to much
A leaf blower would work.
i don't know anything about the machine. but what i did notice is the oil line rubbing on the drive shaft that turns the machine.
Yes, normally I tie them out of the way, but I was only running it for 5 minutes.
So watching at 7:34, you can see the sickle is sloppy. Looks like guides/shims arent adjusted correctly. If its doing that at low rpm and no load. Imagine what its doing at higher rpm and grass going through. I bet that sickle is jumping and bucking all over the place and maybe getting jammed when loaded. I never slowed one down to watch, but im pretty sure thats a no no. It should just go back and forth, not out, then forward, then in then backwards. Its running in 4 axis, not 2 axis. Maybe its suppose to? But i doubt it.
Agreed
This is a 1219, yes?
That end sickle section looks wrong. Why does the first segment not have a cutting edge?
That section should be John Deere part number E75474, IIRC.
Look at @3:20, there is NO cutting edge at all! This will likely bunch up grass and cause stress right where the welds are.
Your LH (Left Hand) end section is wrong, by the looks of it! (Not true; see correction below....)
ADDED: okay, I looked at the manual and some parts lists and there seems to be conflicting information as to how that end section is supposed to look like. Let me take a look at our 1219 in the morning to verify.
(BTW, we're running a 1219 without issues for 3 seasons now....haven't even replaced any of the sickle sections yet...)
ADDED #2: checked our machine, and there really is this non-cutting half-blade in this LH position. So obviously this is NOT the issue here with sickles braking.
Very odd....
The bar came right from John deere, but they do have multiple parts for the same areas, and they are not exactly sure why. Hence why mine has 2 different wear plates :(
@@This1LifeWeLive Yes, this is really strange. Even the manual I have of the 1219 shows TWO different versions (without explanation) on the same page!
Like I wrote though, ours looks exactly like yours (non-cutting end section) and works fine, so the problem is likely elsewhere? Best of luck figuring it out!
YEP, like Ken Yh and a few others I would bet it is the far side. looks like when it comes out it is hitting and bouncing back towards the rear of the slide. My 2 cents.
Hello !! Happy Monday for you I hope, I'm not much help for your hay choppy thing 🤔🙄 sorry, but on the other hand good video. 👍👍❤✌✌🙏
Just wait till I get to my hay squisher thing ;D
Funny I like that 😉
The 1219 is a relic . You guys want to be in the hay business you need a discbine . I have been working on hay equipment for over 40 years and I do not miss sickle machines and there problems . Keep up the great videos
My best advice is to sell the sickle mower and upgrade to a disc mower. It’s more forgiving with ant mounds. Way less adjustments. As long as you have sharp blades you are good to go. With your acreage you will make a few cuts on a set of blades. Did I mention you can cut at 6 MPH or how ever fast the smoothness of your field allows. The only downside to a three point mounted mower is hooking it up. After you learn the tricks of your specific mower it’s easy. Of course a caddy or drawbar pull disc mower would be like your current sickle mower. It would be a game changing upgrade to your operation. I run a krone AM403. It’s an oldie but reliable!
Out here in MI used ones are tough to find, and all are out of budget at the moment :(
Disc Mowers are the way to go for sure, but let's not forget that these Haybines (using a sickle) were THE standard for many years and successfully mowed (and continue to mow) millions of acres.
There shouldn't be a reason why this Haybine shouldn't function as intended, and that it can't be fixed/repaired to give satisfactory cutting performance.
Nice picture on your September calendar page but why are You not in it? As I have mentioned before, I believe your bar is failing from Metal Fatigue. A slow motion shot of the area in question would have been good but be very careful around rotating equipment. I think the 'wobble arm' (Pitman) may be misaligned with the bar causing it to move UP and DOWN at the end on each cycle. Enough bending and it cracks at the weakest point. Cracks must be FULLY ground out in V shape before welding. Loosen off that bolt enough and wedge the slot open then move the assembly back and forth and see if the connection bearing moves up and down in the hole. Measure from a solid surface on the ground to see how much it moves up and down.
There should be NO Vertical movement in the cycle. If that gear box is not solidly bolted, allowing it to move slightly, that could be the problem. Is there a Tech Guy at your JD dealership that could help? You have likely tried that.
Two cracks indicate to me that there is considerable flexing going on so be sure the bar moves freely by hand.
Reinforcing material should be Stitch welded (1/2" gaps) and extend as far as possible down the bar.
Your ground speed when mowing seems quite fast.
The sickle has to be oiled because without lube it heats up an binds up get out your wd40 an use the whole can
I rewatched the video at .25 speed and on the big screen. It's the pitman end, not the open end. The pitman is erratic and when you combine that with full swath being cut, it's going to overstress that pitman to bar connection.
Yep it's one end or the other. Your left side end is over-reaching and striking the end of the machine. Since the hold-downs clamp the bar in place until it reaches the pitman side, the first place the stress can be relieved is outside the hold-downs on the pitman end. This is probably a case of the pitman traveling too far in it's eccentric, (one of the parts in the pitman transmission are the wrong size) or the sickle bar is about an inch too long. Every time you weld it, you run the risk of making it longer yet. I didn't get a good slow-motion look at the pitman transmission, so it's tough to tell if that's where the trouble is, or just in the overall length of the cutter bar. But will bet a dime to a donut that your hold-downs and guides are not causing the problem. My first guess was always that the pitman has been replaced/repaired and the part that was swapped was pretty close, but not quite right.
HEY.....HEY..... get that pto cover back on that pto shaft (part that goes on tractor) PLEEEEEAAAASSSSEEEEE!!
I was thinking the same thing with her long hair hanging down. That pto shaft will pull her head down so fast she wouldn’t know what happened if her hair got caught in it I’ve seen a girl get her hair caught in a grinder not good. Tie up that hair. Please, wouldn’t want to see you hurt.
The part causing the issue is the part connecting the blade. Look for wear at this joint.it will be obvious
I agree its a pitman problem. any slop or twist is going to be hard on the sickle. As far as backing up goes, remember you are driving the mower--not the tractor. Be one with the mower, Luke...
Yes it can be fixed. Spend 2500-3500 on a 1160 hesston
Pure speculation, but it would appear that the end of the sickle bar that holds the pin is not alignment tolerance of the pitman arm clamp. Or perhaps the mounting plate that the wobble box is sitting on may be bent. This would cause the pitman arm to move up and down as it traveled from left to right. One thing to make certain of when you have the sickle bar welded, do not quench it with liquid. This would increase harness of the steel making it more brittle and prone to stress fractures. Let it cool down naturally. A possible fix for your predicament is to weld a very heavy duty Himes ball joint to the end of the sickle bar. This would allow for multiple axis of movement and accommodate a lot of miss alignment of other components.
Leprechauns, definitely Leprechauns
Wow.... aww
john deeres are very sensitive to shims in guards and holddowns
Having too much horsepower ( tractor ) may be much of your problems ! Machines are rated for horsepower both minimum and maximum ! Too much power will snap that sickle , something has too give
Excellent point! I hadn't thought of that. Determine what the Maximum horsepower the mower was designed to be powered by at the time it was sold, de-rate it by 10% for age and wear, and I'm sure that the Minimum output of your much, much newer tractor far exceeds that. It may be as simple as that.
That's what slip clutches are for. Unless froze up, you will burn a clutch before overloading the gearbox.
@@duanehenicke6602 nope , you can't put A 150 HP tractor on A Haybine meant for 50-80 HP persay ! This will snap that sickle like A twig
@@JAB00777 Okay let's say you're right. What is she cutting that would put that much strain on the bar itself? All of my teenage yrs were spent cutting, raking, baling hay. Put in my time with a sickle bar. Hated the damn thing, but never once did i break a bar. Here in south Texas it's not uncommon for small mesquite and other brush to pop up in a hay field. Cut them right off without a problem. And it was all done with 150 hp tractor. My point is from what i've seen her cut, no way hp is repeatedly breaking that bar.
@@JAB00777 LOL
This is metal fatigue for sure.it will always break if you don't repair the part causing fluctuating stress on the blade
Can't you slow that tractor to idle with the PTO engaged? It seems to me that the sickle bar should have some type of connection to allow for angular movement on the end. Like a ball joint in a car. With the sickle bar removed, put something under the pitman arm to see if it moves up and down as well as side to side as it operates. You can probably turn the power take off by hand. Then clamp a straight piece of metal inside the hole in the arm that's long enough so you can see if it stays perfectly vertical as it moves from side to side. Overall, it just looks like a poor design but it is a John Deere. There are combine heads with 40 ft and longer sickle bars that don't break constantly.
Problem Found! I noticed in your slow mo videos ( that I slowed down as well) the sickle bar is moving to far to the left as viewed. I noticed the cutter blade travels further that way than to the right. I then went back to an earlier video ua-cam.com/video/mIsrFgO91l0/v-deo.html At 19:00 on that video you had to grind down the bar so the bar could make the full travel. So I found a problem> the blade is traveling to far left. Since I have no cutter experience I can only assume a few things. One the knife drive arm is bent, or timing is out of wack. Dang, I forgot what I win for figuring it out.
We ground out a guard that sits over it, John deere was out of stock but its possible it might not be enough... but maybe not the full cause of breakage since we just put that on last year 😕 but the travel distance is something to check for sure!
@@This1LifeWeLive Might check the wobble box bolts and mount... If it's been welded up underneath the wobble box might be out of alignment.
Pto cover needs to be put on its lethal without .. Safety first .
It didn't come with one
@@This1LifeWeLive Come on Suz.... a year ago when U had U-joint/pto shaft trouble w/ that thing I mentioned that U forgot the most important part, "the safety shield" please, please dont make light of pto safety shields. Look up the dangers, spend the few bucks for a new shield & put it on properly. As far as the sickle head breaking, the stroke does not go past the stub guards the same distance each way, maybe the pitman arm is off a spline tooth on it's shaft. Ask to talk to the most experienced haybine mechanic at your JD dealer & explain whats going on w/ it. He will be able to shed some light on what to check & look for. Good luck.
I'm not an engineer but I know the metal is not as strong as the weld it's self so the bar will continue to crack along the edge of the weld. I think it's breaking because of the cyclic load, again I'm not an engineer but Eaton Hodgkinson was way back in the day and he did extensive studies on cyclic load and metal work fatigue. With the rate of speed and the weight of the cutter and all of its teeth that's a lot of cyclic load over a 5, 10, or even a 15 year time period. I've seen logging chains that are rated for heavy loads break after spending their entire life time picking up small loads. I hate to say this but I think y'all are going to have to bite the bullet and purchase a new bar or just keep welding that one up. My final answer is metal fatigue caused by the weakening of a material by cyclic loading that results in progressive and localized structural damage and the growth of cracks. The crack will continue to grow until it reaches a critical size, which occurs when the stress intensity factor of the crack exceeds the fracture toughness of the material, producing rapid propagation and typically complete fracture of the structure.
Before I bought a new bar I would consider adjusting the grass fin a little forward on the (what I call the passenger side of the tractor) I'm not 100% sure but it looks like it's making slight contact with the cutting bar. This is just my theory on why the bar breaks at the welds, again I'm not an engineer I just have exuberant amounts of free time to read because of the MACARONA so take my theory with a grain of salt and don't run out to buy a new $300 bar because I said it's metal fatigue.
I'm changing my official answer, it's probably breaking because your not eating bacon before your cutting hay!
Nice try. But she has a stack of sickle bars from buying new ones every year. That one was welded to finish a field. Something is wore out, causing them to break.
@@duanehenicke6602 no it's the lack of consumption of a proper amount of bacon.
@@theycallmebacon5692 Well i can fix that. I cure and smoke a couple bellies a week.
@@duanehenicke6602 I'd love that but I find my self in a pork free environmental catastrophe.
@@theycallmebacon5692 Sounds like you're in hell.....
You might need to get a Disc Mower,conditioner !!
👍🏻👍🏻❤️❤️🥇🥇😃😃
The blade keeps breaking because the mower is out of alignment with the blade. (Which is likely why the former owner got rid of it.)
Get a disc mower an u worrys are over.fix that one an trade it in
Hello Wtfarmgirl, how long have you had that haybine? I'm no mechanical genius but it could be the PTO shaft, you ever heard of Oliver66farmboy channel? I'm subscribed to his channel too, is it warm there in Michigan, its nice and cool here, I had lunch at the DQ in Hawley MN I had the bbq chicken strips, you like Florida-Georga line? Those guys are awesome, also like Lauren Alaina Jon Pardi, Gabby Barrett And Ashley Mcbryde the other day I was at the checkout line at Walmart in Detroit Lakes and I saw some gal wi6 her son and this lady looked like you, had to give her another look and no it wasn't the Wtfarmgirl, everyone has a twin out there lol😀 looks like you had several tries before you got your haybine in the barn, any sign of of the old lady lately? 👵
Opposite end of pittman the blade is moving as said.. your missing a single hold down from what I see..to keep that blade in place.. I have 1209.. dont really know the difference as they look very much the same.. I use different hold downs and guards..but dont think thats your problem either..as previously stated
Wtfarm girl are you going to make your maple syrup
"Mower Brakes Sicklebars!" Maybe Breaks??
The misuse of break and brake seems to be a recent phenomenon and I see it in everything including newspaper articles. There, their and they're, to two and too are some others. Have the schools gotten that bad since I went to school?
That's what happens when a 7 year old is running through the house with the dogs like a maniac . .
@@This1LifeWeLive Yeah I figured you were just overbusy and missed the spelling error.
take the pivot off the arm and bar then move both arm and bar through the travel and check distance between them at both ends of the stroke there should be very small distance between them at both ends
Dang Girl, Those blue eyes, PURE Beautiful, The mussel in those arms, I feel sorry 4 your husband,
I'll take that old mower off your hands so that you guys can buy a new one. I know it's not much but I'd like to help as much as I can.
Hallo Hübsche ❤❤
Hallo!
Its binding up on you something is bent. But I'm not a farmer
If at any time you need help I will come to help for free. Yes I am disabled but I can still use my brain and my hands. I dont mind getting dirty.
Get a whole new piece replace that one
Get a new one !
Buy a circlemower, they are much better.
Made in China ?
U need to transition to the Noob Girl for awhile and relieve the Pressures !!
😭 I miss playing Minecraft! I've been so slammed with work I don't get any down time :( HOPING that will change once I get (hopefully) my office . . . then I'll be back at Noob Girl Videos :)
captain hook
Would’ve been first if not out and about doing stuffs 🤦🏻♂️
Hay Farm Girl 👧 too bad you don’t live next door. That arm is too small for it’s purpose. That’s why it keeps breaking. I fix that sort of thing. I redesign it in a manner fit for the job intended. Basically you need that actuator beefed up 👍
First
AHHH southern engineering tooth pick am I shocked? No. Why because Sue did a video on weight control by eating tape worms 🤣 🤢.
😂
Hey cutie how are you doing
That piece you are trying to weld is cast iron and unless you have it professionally welded it will keep breaking.
I use rod with nickel in it with good success on cast iron.
Knife assembly uses no cast iron. Breakage of this knife is simple. The hold downs on the stub guards are probably adjusted too tight. Unhook the knife and see if you can slide it in and out by hand. It may require a strong arm but it should move. You should have ditched those stub guard setups in the first place and used regular guards. Much easier for beginners like you. Stub guards require a lot of fussing and experience to get set right
2 lol
If you have insurance on that turd park it where it can be stolen. Whoever steals it deserves it.
😂😂😂