A right pig of a job i paid a mechanic £80 to do mine recently same car and im glad i did after watching this. I try most jobs but this looks to much bother
Nice jobb, well done.I just got my alternator down to day and move on to next step. Goal is change crankshaft pully seal and wet belt case . Wish me luck ! Thank you for your great video.
Just had a new decouper fitted the bearings had failed and the OAP pulley was playing up. Got the garage to do it, glad I did I Don't like blooded knuckles. Really good video.
Such an easy job on the Mk4 TDCI!! Us Mk3 V6 owners have to jack the car up, take the drivers front wheel off, remove inner arch, pop the track rod end off the hub carrier and then find the perfect combination of ratchet size and socket length to be able to reach round the back of the alternator to get at the rear bolt but not fowl on the bulkhead grrr. Pain the the arse job, especially when i kill alternators fairly regularly, on my 3rd alternator in 4 years :(
@@ChazzCoombes trust me, you will be saying why... Why ford over and over again! Ford are usually really good for thoughtful designs that are easy to work on but they had been drinking the day they decided to put the V6 alternator where they did grrr. Next time you are under your 220 go through your tools and see how long it takes you to find something that will engage with the rear bolt, only a single ratchet I own with one specific socket and the ratchet drive only partly in the socket will work to undo the bolt. Everything else I own is either too long and fouls the bulkhead or the ratchet head is too 'fat' and fowls the behead or things are too short and won't reach round the alternator. You will see some posts suggesting a load of socket extentions and coming at it from above on forums but that only works on the mk1 and 2, the mk3 is mounted differently and must be attacked from below. My current alternator is only 3 months old but already whining, I murder them with my audio system, the last one failed catastrophically and it looked like I had an engine fire from all the smoke ha ha, the alternator was fried to a crisp, not a single bit of enamel left on any of the windings, just a charred mess!
Good video bro 👍 Just wondering as ive changed belt recently id just decouple leaving belt on.Going this way do i still need to remove AC pump or can alternator be removed? thanks
The 3 bolts on the coupler were too tight on mine and have now been rounded off, any suggestions? I have done every other step in removal process but now stuck on these last 3 bolts
The whole point of the decoupling...... You don't have to mess around with the belt at all. It's supposed to make it a quicker job. I've done a few. I'm not sure about taking all the parts off? Wheel liner and top engine mount comes out easy.
well that couldn't be correct, don't you have to remove the ac pump to get to one of the alternator bolts out and so the belt must be slackened. doing it now myself, proper sob hah
Doing mine mine now and the rubber boot in the de-coupler is all split, was yours ??? Couldn't see it on your vid, good vid tho, guess im stuck now if i need a new boot rubber for the de-coupler
Hello, good morning, I am a follower of your channel and I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, Ford mondeo mk2 2.5 v6, one morning the battery was discharged, without knowing how to change the battery, when month or so, the car stopped in full operation, it was as if the electricity had died, stop, giving it and giving it until it started, again as if the battery was without charge, it was only a month old, I changed the alternator regulator , and well, I bought it, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing a few minutes later, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until the battery was discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to him, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less to less , that in a moment the battery goes away, I recharge it, install it, and leave it and connected approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red light of the alarm did not blink, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, it carried out the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself that this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02 amps, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, I have also performed the voltage drop test and it gives 000v both positive and negative, and then what happens to it? I don't even know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
Now, awsome, if you are a "diy person" just mind the top mount on the alternator, the engine is made from "aĺoy" Dont prize to hard, Or you are in a world of pain, Good luck,
A right pig of a job i paid a mechanic £80 to do mine recently same car and im glad i did after watching this. I try most jobs but this looks to much bother
Nice jobb, well done.I just got my alternator down to day and move on to next step. Goal is change crankshaft pully seal and wet belt case . Wish me luck ! Thank you for your great video.
Cheers for the comment, the wet belt is on my list too.
Great video, i wasn't to sure if the alternator would come out. Just done mine on my Galaxy 1.8 tdci 07 plate
Mines gone too is it easy?
Just had a new decouper fitted the bearings had failed and the OAP pulley was playing up. Got the garage to do it, glad I did I Don't like blooded knuckles. Really good video.
Cheers Stephen.
really good video, thank you. this is going to help me to change my decoupler as it is making grinding noise.
Cheers mate, glad the video will help you.
Top job ! I need to change alternator on mine too. Cheers!
Such an easy job on the Mk4 TDCI!! Us Mk3 V6 owners have to jack the car up, take the drivers front wheel off, remove inner arch, pop the track rod end off the hub carrier and then find the perfect combination of ratchet size and socket length to be able to reach round the back of the alternator to get at the rear bolt but not fowl on the bulkhead grrr.
Pain the the arse job, especially when i kill alternators fairly regularly, on my 3rd alternator in 4 years :(
I feel your pain, I have the v6 St220 also and not had to change mine yet.
@@ChazzCoombes trust me, you will be saying why... Why ford over and over again! Ford are usually really good for thoughtful designs that are easy to work on but they had been drinking the day they decided to put the V6 alternator where they did grrr.
Next time you are under your 220 go through your tools and see how long it takes you to find something that will engage with the rear bolt, only a single ratchet I own with one specific socket and the ratchet drive only partly in the socket will work to undo the bolt.
Everything else I own is either too long and fouls the bulkhead or the ratchet head is too 'fat' and fowls the behead or things are too short and won't reach round the alternator.
You will see some posts suggesting a load of socket extentions and coming at it from above on forums but that only works on the mk1 and 2, the mk3 is mounted differently and must be attacked from below.
My current alternator is only 3 months old but already whining, I murder them with my audio system, the last one failed catastrophically and it looked like I had an engine fire from all the smoke ha ha, the alternator was fried to a crisp, not a single bit of enamel left on any of the windings, just a charred mess!
Good video bro 👍 Just wondering as ive changed belt recently id just decouple leaving belt on.Going this way do i still need to remove AC pump or can alternator be removed? thanks
The 3 bolts on the coupler were too tight on mine and have now been rounded off, any suggestions? I have done every other step in removal process but now stuck on these last 3 bolts
The whole point of the decoupling...... You don't have to mess around with the belt at all. It's supposed to make it a quicker job. I've done a few. I'm not sure about taking all the parts off? Wheel liner and top engine mount comes out easy.
I was replacing the belt aswell so took it off. I only took extra stuff off for filming the video for camera access.
As long as it gets done and you save money 👍 a garage would have charged a full hour Labour for a 30min job so well done💪
@@DAVWELLS123 yeap that they would do.
well that couldn't be correct, don't you have to remove the ac pump to get to one of the alternator bolts out and so the belt must be slackened. doing it now myself, proper sob hah
I suspect I have the same problem im gunna use this tutorial
Great job and help,thanks
Doing mine mine now and the rubber boot in the de-coupler is all split, was yours ??? Couldn't see it on your vid, good vid tho, guess im stuck now if i need a new boot rubber for the de-coupler
Mine was fine. If yours is split maybe worth replacing it while you have it apart.
Yes sir just fitting a new one now 👍 keep up the good work buddy
Is Ford Focus 1.8 tdci 2008 engine same as this ??
Thank you very much
Mind for the engine alternator, the engine mount is alloy, go on ford, dont prize it to hard,
Hello, good morning, I am a follower of your channel and I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, Ford mondeo mk2 2.5 v6, one morning the battery was discharged, without knowing how to change the battery, when month or so, the car stopped in full operation, it was as if the electricity had died, stop, giving it and giving it until it started, again as if the battery was without charge, it was only a month old, I changed the alternator regulator , and well, I bought it, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing a few minutes later, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until the battery was discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to him, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less to less , that in a moment the battery goes away, I recharge it, install it, and leave it and connected approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red light of the alarm did not blink, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, it carried out the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself that this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02 amps, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, I have also performed the voltage drop test and it gives 000v both positive and negative, and then what happens to it? I don't even know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
Lol i suppose you never got a teply
Now, awsome, if you are a "diy person" just mind the top mount on the alternator, the engine is made from "aĺoy"
Dont prize to hard,
Or you are in a world of pain,
Good luck,