Folks, I have updated the description with a new link for all R1 service manuals. If you have a question about codes or specific mechanical issues, please refer to the service manual for your answers.
I used this last night to diagnose a problem with code 19 on an R1. I had the manual but it isn't really clear that the diagnostic mode was a live data monitor of the different ECM inputs. with your video I was able to figure out what those damn numbers really mean and use the manual to see how to use it all for my needs. Thank you for the video, it was easier for me to see you do it then to decipher how it is supposed to work from the text in the book. I liked the editing as well. BTW: Code 19 is for kick stand input fault. I checked the start circuit cut off relay and the kickstand switch itself but the actual problem was a rubbed through wire at the left radiator bracket leading up to the left clip on handle bar switch. I would imagine that this is the ground wire that links the clutch switch, neutral switch and kick stand switch to the ECM. While watching diagnostic 20 and having the kickstand plug jumped I could wiggle the wires and narrow down the problem. The monitor would only got from off to on when the bare wire touched ground.
If people are wondering, this also works on the 2014. You just have to hold the select and reset buttons until the screen clears and says diag. After that, you hold both of them again until it says d1:xx. I just tried this and it is some awesome information! Thank you for this video!
Thanks for the video! Just stripped my R1 down, put it all back together after tidying all the wiring and i had a check engine light. Watching your video and following each step I spotted the air inlet temp reading -22. Forgot to plug the sensor in! Cheers mate, all sorted now.
+Nathan Williams I totally agree! I wish this same level of function was available in cars as well. Having the ability to trigger individual spark plugs or even injectors is a troubleshooting method that, when you need it, saves a lot of time and money.
Anyone know whats d1:16 is for cant find what its for. And the couple answer i find are different things. So not sure which to trust. Cant find my manual btw
Amazing share of important info for R1 owners! thanks a ton for sharing and sharing at a nice pace. Maybe the most informative R1 service video Ive ever seen thanks again.
Damn I love this video!! A fuel injection wire came unplugged then threw code 40. Ran threw this and fixed my problem after I hooked it all back up!! 110% video dude. Thanks!!!
Bro i only get diag mode numbers from 01 to 70 there’s no 61, 62 , 63 i also have check engine light on and i don’t know how to diagnose it , please help
Helpful video but I have a question. I have a 2002 R1 with the codes 23 & 13. Air pressure and atmospheric pressure intake. I don't see that in diagonstics mode. How do I reset those codes if the sensors are working properly?
AyeOne Productions those sound like barometric sensors which will only have an impact on your closed loop fueling. Those sensors are used in conjunction with O2 sensors for fuel efficiency and are part of the emissions equipment. No worries even if they are not working quite right. I don't know if the 2002 diag mode is exactly the same, but on the 09 to 14 models I believe the "60" or "61" setting will clear codes if you flip the ignition switch.
I have having starting issues with my 2011 R1 and this video is helping but i have a few questions for the fuel pump voltage how it should be approximately 12 should it hold 12? mine sits at 11.4 and drops fairly quickly and the more and more times i do it the number drops. i need some help
Your best bet is to either check out the R1 forums or refer to the service manual for your year of R1. I don't have much experience with failing fuel pumps if that is your issue. The service manual will tell you what the values should be. If voltage drops quickly, I would look into replacing your battery because it may simply be an issue of inadequate charging.
KURTIS ALIX not that I am aware of easily, but I'm sure it could be done. I would highly suggest against it. The tip-over sensor is designed to save your engine in the event the bike falls over. The engine is designed to work upright and when it falls over, the oil pump starves as does your bearings which means you'll wreck your motor. It only takes a few seconds of oil starvation for your motor to be ruined.
Nick if you check the R1 manual, there is a section which states that it is normal for the oil light to come on at "sustained high speeds" because the speed of the engine will have most of the oil in circulation. This means the oil level in the pan may drop below the sensor level, triggering the light.
Sorry is 223 Fahrenheit so exactly my problem is the engine shut-off some times not temperature problem the problem is when my self off the switch and in some minutes I going to start so the engine turn and not start, I remove out the key push the bottom switch off position and return the key the switch on position in this time run the engine . I think maybe is o2 sensor problem ? This problem coming when I had 3500 Kms was two times so now I've 13400 Kms and the problem is constant , do you have idea what is the problem ? Thanks you to advise me
I'll have to look to see if it's bad . When I'm coming to a stop and braking somewhat mid to hard abc the bikes nose goes down and forks compress the bike shuts off ( fuel ) and stalls. And "30" pops up on my gauges then goes away.it happened 7 times today
KURTIS ALIX Sounds like the sensor might not be mounted at all. It has a rubberized mount it sits on to prevent it from moving around. Should be an easy fix!
Hi I have a question, I have a 2003 Yamaha R6, it seems like it does not charge the battery, is there anyway to know what is happening using the Diag mode?
Damion Simms I don't think the diagnostic mode will tell you anything about the charge system. The only way to test it is to use a multi-meter and start testing for proper voltage output at various places along the bike. I did this recently when my voltage regulator/rectifier was damaged because of a short circuit. You can test the connections on various ends of the device and see whether the stator is outputting proper voltage (test in AC mode) or whether the reg/rec is outputting correct voltage to the battery (test in DC mode).
hey I was doing this procedure and I noticed when in the option of steering dampener, it just says 0 when im moving the handle bars. how can I test this?
If you follow the links in the description, you will find a link to download the R1 service manual. Within that manual, you will find that D:47 tests the damper. You flip the engine switch to put power to the solenoid and move the bars for testing. Doesn't appear there is any value readout on the gauge. If you need more information, refer to the service manual as anything known will be in there.
I have a 2009 R1 , I opened the airbox put it back then removed the ecu I was going to send it out to be flashed , I put it back on for a quick ride got about miles away and bike shut completely off , it turns very freely like it has no intentions on starting , mean while had to put it in a truck bed to get it home so I'm sure the tip over switch is active , any idea on how to rectify this situation I'd greatly appreciate it , thx ....
Mike Ford the best place to start would be to see what trouble codes are being displayed within the diagnostic mode. I would also verify you hooked up everything properly when you took out the airbox as you may have left your fuel pump disconnected. Motors need three things to run: Fuel, air and spark. Verify all those are working before focusing on anything else.
any idea on how to take it out of diag mode, I see 12 on my tach now, telling me it's the crank position sensor (which would explain why my battery is charged and I can push the bike off to start it) but now it just keeps showing 12.
+jiggaracci you take the bike out of diag mode by turning the key to the off position. Once you turn the ignition back to on, it will reset to normal operation.
thanks, I tried that. I actually found d:62 2, so I turned the red engine switch to off, which dropped it down to 1, but I can't clear this one... So when I put the key in and turn it on, I think it's still in diag mode as it's now coming up with 12 (no signal from the crankshaft position sensor), but now I don't have any milage or anything on my tach. Just 12, so I'm thinking it's still in diag mode, when before I did the diag mode, it didn't come up with 12.
jiggaracci that is very unusual. I would try removing the battery connections for about 10 minutes and then trying again to see if that clears it. It should not be going back into diag mode by simply turning the ignition to the on position.
yea I just tried that again. It seems that if I take out the computer that's behind the battery (Unplug those 2 interfaces) my tach shows correctly but will not start. The moment I plug them back in, it goes back to 12
my bike was stolen a week ago...but got my bike back .. they cut the ignition wire... i reconnect the wire start up my bike .. but my gear indicator don't show what gear i'm at now and the neutral light is on all the time... what can i do to fix it.. ?
You will need to either trace the wiring, or get a hold of a wiring diagram to see what specific wires were cut. If neither of those lights turn off, it is likely there is a cut in the wire somewhere or a problem with the sensor itself. That's the best answer I can provide. Wiring diagrams can be found in the service manual for your specific bike.
badass i did not know that. i have the same bike do you have any idea why the R1 symbol in the display does not stay on, on my bike? it comes on when it starts and the dash works but just shuts right off after
+shoot n ride I think there is a separate option to adjust all that stuff. It is the setting area where you adjust the shift light RPM and pattern, as well as toggle on / off the R1 symbol. Off the top of my head I don't remember the sequence but if you google how to adjust the clock / shift light you should find it.
You said you had a module that went bad that activated the neutral switch. Did that make the neutral light fade in and out? My light come off and on intermittently and im having some serious issues starting it at this point. The light has been like that for a long time never really thought about it, just dealt with it. But im wondering if maybe that is the problem. I have new plugs and a new battery. Im going to check the fuel system today, now that i know how. ha. thank you for the video.
Kcin27 glad you found the video helpful. My issue was ultimately related to a flat battery. The bike behaved in an unexpected fashion when the batter was very low. There is a safety relay which only allows power to the starter motor when a combination of safety devices are active like the kickstand or neutral switch and clutch. When the battery was low, that relay made a nasty buzzing noise. I've not seen issues with the switch flickering except when I had an electrical short and the stator could barely keep up with powering the bike. It is just a process of elimination. Test what you suspect to be bad, and narrow down the list.
Hey flashwing I have a " F: " on my 2013 Yamaha R1 display on my speedo and the motor is not firing up - its cranking but not starting - and info you can help me with ???
KURTIS ALIX is it displayed next to any mileage? An "F" will display when you've reached your 0.8 gallon fuel reserve. Do you have a low fuel warning light?
Hi i got some problemOn my r1 2010. I just change my battery and my voltage shown 12.2 and i check my magnetic coil still in good condition. When i on my ignition and start to crank wont start can i know what is the problem?? Is it starter relay? Or something??
Hard to know without looking at the bike myself. The bike will still crank even without the alternator, it just won't power anything. You'll have to follow the wiring and ensure the starter is properly powered and functioning and go from there.
My engine when is at high temperature 123 Fahrenheit I myself shut-off the engine after any seconds one more time I want start my engine so it not start the engine only turn to crank so I need close off the switch key and in some times start with difficult the rpm is slow after is rpm normally I test every sensors so everything is correct . Do you can help me ?i think is ECU problem .
Hey Daniel. 123 degrees Fahrenheit isn't considered to be high temperature. Normal operating temperatures for bikes tend to be 180 degrees or higher. If that is 123 degrees Celsius, that equates to over 256 degrees Fahrenheit which is a very high temperature. If you are seeing high temperatures like that, you need to check your cooling system including your water pump to see if it is functioning. Without seeing the bike in person I won't be much help with diagnosing your problem. My best advice is to find the web forum for your specific bike and search for posts about your issue. I imagine someone else out there has had the same problem as you.
Hey guys, I have a 2012 yamaha R1 and for some reasons it starts up just fine but no throttle response and the engine light came on. Any ideas? Thank you for the help
Hi bro I need to know how do I able to change the 2012 R1 fans working on temperature, I am in sataying in middle east and over here it's very hard to use the bike especially at day time So there is any thing I can change my r1 fans work on 200 f because my bike default fans are start working on 220 f ,I Had one 2010 r1 Which was import from USA and I noticed that bike fans was working on 200 f ,thanks
+Muhammed _ I can't speak about other model years, but my 2009 R1 doesn't turn on the fans until 225 degrees fahrenheit and I believe that is standard. The only way you can change the fan temperature is to flash the ECU with a new tune. There are a few tuners that you can send your ECU to them and they will flash it and send it back. That is really the only way to change that setting.
+Norzarif zainal abidin my understanding is this is normal. The engine, at sustained high RPMs, will have most of the oil in circulation and it will trigger the low oil light. The only "fix" is to add just a little bit extra oil during your oil change.
It ended up being a bad battery. The bike would crank but just didn't seem to have enough cranking ability to start, despite it sounding like it did. My understanding is the crossplane requires a bit more umph to start than other inline-4's. I confirmed the starter was in good shape and replaced the battery. I now keep the bike on a battery tender when it isn't ridden more than a couple days.
Okay that sounds different than my problem. My bike cutoff on me at a red light and didn't want to start until I cut the ignition off and back on. Now if I twist the throttle a couple times real quick it dies also. Not sure what it is but with the bike running it only charges at 13.5 so Im not sure if its the generator or not.
Nancy Quintero your cluster should work provided you have enough battery power to run it. The voltage regulator / rectifier allows your battery to power the instrument cluster while the bike's motor isn't running, but the stator powers all the bike's electronics when the engine is on. The fact that your cluster still works doesn't tell us very much at this point. My main concern is whether or not your engine turns over. If the motor is somehow seized, that could mean there was a failure with the cam chain. If it turns over but doesn't start, that could be a stator issue. Hard to know more without seeing the bike, but those are my best guesses as an inexperienced hobbyist mechanic :-).
Hi flashwing thank you so much for this video i got an issue with the air intake sensor (engine light pops up @ high rev. turning bike off and on gets rid of it till i do it again) is it something i shouldnt worry about or does it affect the engine ? cheers
pascal piana I would certainly check it out. It would depend on which air intake sensor is having an issue. Modern ECU's sometimes use incoming airflow data to calculate fuel delivery and the check engine light at high RPM's could be a sign of ignition breakup or misfires. Neither are good and could, if left broken, lead to issues. Best suggestion is to pull the trouble code, then check it against the manual for your bike to see what the code is for. That should give you a better idea of the issue.
Please brother help me got a question bike had the check engine come on lost all reving power wouldn’t rev at all changed the both sensors turned it back on still not letting me rev is that cause the old check engine is still on ? And one more thing is 2011 considered obd2?
Likely obd2 as canbus may not have made it to 2011 model year. Hard to say but if you still have a CEL after changing sensors then you need to pull codes and go through the diag mode and check throttle position etc. Bike may be in limp mode as a result.
@@FlashwingMotoVlogger dude thanks alot ima grab the 4 pin to obd2 plug clear and hopefully it works out one thing I can say is whenever that light came on it completely stopped all movement of bike when it went away out of nowhere it drove fine again so I’m hoping it’s just that but ima do what u said go threw diag is there a way to take it out limp mode sorry for the bother brother ?
@angelteamnolimit624 if it's in limp mode it's due to an issue so the only way to resolve it will be to fix whatever problem there is. If you clear the CEL and it comes back then hopefully you have enough information to find the issue.
@@FlashwingMotoVlogger well this the thing when the check engine came on I lost all throttle response when I did research people where saying it throttle position sensor and accel sensor so I put them new but never cleared the code so I’m hoping it’s just clearing the code so ima get the adapter give it a try I remember when there was no light it was perfect but when light came on I got the issues so I’m hoping that clears with the new parts added just brings it back to clear I was hearing u can clear the codes from the screen in getting number 15
hi there mate.any chance you can help me out.i do have a r1 2010 and when i turn the ignition on theres no priming sound.dash have check engine light,service and on high temp. theres an error code too 1,2..i just got the bike and i know the issue is theres no priming sound on it but dont know about whats on the dash.hope you can help me out.thanks
All the error codes and diagnostic methods are going to be in the bike service manual. The link I have in the description should still work for you to access it. You can also use the diag mode provided in this video to test various items. If it is error code 12 then the service manual would show that it is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. All your answers will be in the service manual.
Hello , (I'm using a translator ) I 'm from chile and I have a problem with my r1 2011 , could you please help me? A few days ago the engine failure light is lit , at 5 min trailed off , then lit with the light of the fuel , but the pond was full ...... that may be failing ???? thanks for the help we can !!!!
+Cr Ja hi there! Without much more information, I have no idea what your problem could be. You need to pull engine codes and do more troubleshooting. That is the best advice I can offer.
hello any help please I jet washed my r1 2010 ride it home 2 hours later turned on the bike and code error 31 show then the electronics start playing up arlam datatool s4 then started showing 51 60 error code the fuel injection how staying on not going off then the keys wouldn't work nothing comes on now only indicaters? bike been in garage for 5 days still nothing
Miguel I'm sorry to hear about your issues with your 2010. It is very likely your issue may be electrical in nature given that it worked prior to you washing the bike with a high pressure washer. The first thing I would suggest, is using the link in the video description to download the service manual for your model year. Looking through the manual, I can't find any mention of "error 31" or the specific error or fault codes you provided. There is a fault code 60 I found which reports to a possible throttle body malfunction, or issue with the ECU. Given the nature of your issue, I would suggest using the service manual to try and diagnose your issue. Without being able to see the bike in person there is very little advice I can offer other than that.
Some of the easy stuff to check would be fuses and connectors. The ECU is a pretty major part as is the instrument cluster. You can pull the connectors apart, inspect for water or burn marks which could tell you if something happened. You may just have to work the problem backwards, checking to ensure parts of the harness work properly using a multi-meter as well. Electrical issues are pretty tough and time consuming but the service manual will give you about everything you need to work the problem. It may just take time.
I have xenon on my motorcycle and in test d: 52 headlight relay I try to turn on and it turned off and I left the diagnosis. Could it be because of the xenon lamps?
1. how do i get the code for my check engine light and 2.my closed throttle position is 20 and my open throttle postion is 22...yes really. please help
I believe I cover #1 in the video where you scroll to around the #60 area and it should display any active codes. As for #2, sounds like you have a problem with your throttle position sensor or some aspect of your intake. I provided links in the description to a couple service manuals that will suggest potential fixes for failures on each specific code so be sure to check it out.
+Flashwing, jist saw tjat you covered number one right after i posted that comment. but my check engine light turned off and i cant get it to turn bacl no no matter how hard i tried and most symptoms are slowly fixing themselves. i have a feelings its a TPS issue and im gonna replace it altogether. (bike sat for a month outside uncovered in the weather so it develped several problems. but ove seen it rev over 3-4k rpm before i bought it.
Ezra Bunnell sounds like additional troubleshooting needs to be done. Being unable to rev over 3k to 4k RPM's could be issues with a fuel pump or your secondary shower injectors which likely kick in above that RPM. Engines need three things: Fuel, air and spark. Confirm which of those are working properly and you'll likely find the source of your issue.
+Flashwing, hey so, i looked alittle more into it and im getting codes 14 and 16 on d61 (after i reset the codes). which is APS is recieving the wrong signal and the TPS is jamming. i went ahead and purchased a new throttle body complete assembly. theres some janked up wiring under the tank, so im gonna. TPS is now 20-21 so i am losing range. also, my nike is in desperate need of a retune, fuel to air ratio is off. its running too lean. i will update when the work is finished.
Hey I had a question I just went into diag mode my bike starts then bogs down after my gf connected my battery the opposite way . On 61 it’s show multiple codes what could that mena ? My ECu is bad ?
It is very difficult to diagnose the bike without seeing it in person. The diag mode is designed to test various components and trouble codes are there to help narrow down the issue. However, given that your issue is likely electrical, I have no way to know what the issue might be. Reversing the polarity on a battery can do some severe damage to internals. You're going to need to refer to the service manual and likely do more part testing. Bogging could be faulty injectors, faulty fuel pump, or issues with the ECU. I'm sorry I couldn't be more help.
Flashwing Hey I went through the process my codes were being thrown by a blown fuse for the ETV, I went back through and orders and manual and saw the fuses figure Yamaha would have a safety device for reverse polarity
If the numbers are wrong, I would look into replacing defective parts. You don't want to take chances with a throttle that incorrectly reports values to the ECU.
@@Jordi-rj1rr not sure. I have the service manual attached on the video description so you'll want to see what it suggests regarding incorrect throttle position.
+Ashdale daley if it won't physically shift then you likely have a clutch of transmission issue. You're going to have to diagnose further with the service manual or have a mechanic take a look.
+Flashwing money is kinda tight now. it shifts through all the gears while on a stand and not running. once i start it up, gears 1 and 2 will engage but no 3 and up.
***** sounds like there is an issue when the transmission is under load and on the road. Hard to say much more without looking at the bike physically. You may do some searching on the R1 forums to see if anyone else has had the same issue.
If you're having to check things like whether the coils are burnt or if the motor is bad, you'll likely have to pull it out to inspect it. It sucks as I had to do it to verify whether mine was bad, only to discover it was just fine.
thanks man another question if u dnt mind is it possible for my battery wires to fail if they got wet?I went down seat popedup and everything got wet pretty bad all fuses are good though and got a new battery just worried about wires and a connection I check that looked to be corroded wire brushed it off not sure what the part is but what's are your thoughts bro ??? appreciate it
Flashwing...Iam having throttle problems with my 09 r1..I go into diag mode and code 1 being tps sensor after learning from you"thanxs" is at 16 and doesn't go to 101...like tps 14 and 15...I have warranty and dealer wants to erase all my maps from pc5 and start over cause they say TPS is fine and accurate...they say it's getting 100% throttle when I turn it on...any help would be awesome ty...
Unless the PC5 intercepts that sensor signal I can't see why the PC5 map would be part of the problem. Sounds like the most sure method would be to remove the PC5 and test it again to see if the problem still exists. If so, then the PC5 obviously isn't the issue. I imagine getting the maps back on the PC5 would be more difficult than simply uninstalling it but I don't have experience with that unit so I can't be certain.
Cracking video man, I’m just trying to diagnose a starting problem on my brother in laws 2010 R1 ... it won’t start when it’s hot. I replaced the stator and regulator as it wasn’t charging. I hope this helps me. 👍
I to have this problem after mine gets to about 76-108°c if I turn the bike off it will not start until the temp is less than 76ish. Also feels like the bike is misfiring and some times the bike stalls
the only place I have found them was through the R1forums.com site and you can just look them up based on your model year. you can also search for the service manual in Google and download the PDF file.
i have a 2013 r1. just had the fork seals replaced. 30 mins later engine light comes on. i can turn the bike off and start again and the engine like will be off. dont show a code
If there was an engine light, it should have stored a fault code which you can pull via the diag mode. I believe D:60 will flash any fault codes stored in the ECU. Even if the engine light goes off, the fault codes should still be stored until they are cleared. When I first checked mine, I had fault codes from a crash 2 years prior well after I fixed everything and the engine light had been off. Links to the service manuals are in the video description. Under the "Fuel Injection" segment, there are all the diagnostic and fault codes along with information on what to check or what could be wrong. That should get you started.
so i can go into diag mode and pull the code? i wanna say i saw one when i left the gas station. believe it was 02 i may be wrong. when i saw that i shut it off then went to start again. Then no code
Yep, watch the video and follow instructions on entering diag mode. Find the error code diag setting, and it will flash the fault codes. If there is more than one, it will flash the codes in 2 second intervals.
You will want to determine the cause of the CEL using the methods in this video and then follow the service manual instructions for clearing the light.
Awesome to find out about this resource on the bike, I will be going home to run through it today, I actually dropped my bike recently and been having a throttle issue, I was wondering if maybe you could give me some input on it
Thanks a lot buddy! I just got this 2013 R1 so I'm just familiarizing myself with all the new technology. It's much more complex than my 98-03-06 r1s. It reminds me of my R7 I had the pleasure if owning in the early 2000s. Now I'm getting error code 30 on the bike which is the tilt sensor. Trying to find out where it is mounted. I believe it's in the front under the cowl/ side of headlight?
Fixed the tilt sensor ( I forgot to tighten the two screws - dumb ass move on my part ). Bike turns on now but as soon as I put it into gear it shuts off and stalls. That's usually the safety neutral switch but it's not throwing a code or error- and when I go thru diagnosis mode it's not logged in on 60-61 or 62 to clear anything. Shows "0" and nothing to clear or look for . What r your thoughts ?
KURTIS ALIX There is a test method for your neutral switch and your kickstand. Also, be sure to test the readout for your tint sensor. There should be a setting that will give you a specific voltage reading to ensure that the sensor is correctly reporting the bike's position as upright.
I just bought a 04 r1 and the seller informed me that he adjusted the lower TPS to help with a stalling. ( said it was originally at 1496 and he adjusted it clockwise to 1690) those numbers dont make sense to me especially after watching your video. So what I found out when driving it home is that it runs rich when warm. slight shudder when cruising. When coming to a light after 40 miles I had a difficult time keeping it running. I had to hold a high idle cause I could smell the richness and had to keep clearing it out. have any suggestions? thanks
steve ricci you're probably not going to get much value from this video due to the fact that the 2004 and 2009 model years are very different bikes using two different engines and ECU's. The diagnostic mode here would only apply for 2009 - 2014 as those models years are nearly identical. I would start by checking the fault codes listed using the 2004 service manual. It looks like you may have issues with your tilt sensor, intake air temp sensor, and a couple servo motors. You can download the manual here: api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_143422815290513&key=523976d7d4b4995fcbf65f6e437c79e3&libId=iavib8kb01000ayc000DLb40x6ucl&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.r1-forum.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D127504&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mediafire.com%2Fdownload%2Fw3y95r0i89v04c2%2Fcarlsalter.com_Yamaha_YZF-R1S(SC)_2004_Service_Manual.pdf&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=2004%20R1%20Fault%20Codes%20and%20Diagnostic%20Codes%20%3A%20Yamaha%20R1%20Forum&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mediafire.com%2Fdownload%2Fw3...ice_Manual.pdf
I actually need to recheck the code. Some say 30 is tip sendor and others say coil. Rings like a misfire when it gets hot. I will clear the codes and re duplicate the fault so i am not lead into the wrong direction
steve ricci awesome! I'm glad it helped in some way! I don't have much experience with older versions of the R1 so I have no clue if the codes are standard or even if the diag modes are similar. I'm happy you got some benefit out of it!
Great video bro. What exactly did you repair or adjust when correcting your no start problem? Im having so issues. I know the crossplanes arent the easiest to start and on a cold start it takes about 4 crank attempts before mine finally fires up with no throttle assistance as it should be. Once the bikes hot it has no issue usually firing right back up. Its at 24,000k and the previous owner did drop it. It almost sounds like the batterie starts failing to pull the load on start up or as if the timing is off but ive checked timing and it has a brand new battery. Hit me back. I would love to know what you did to resolve your issue.
The issue was a weak battery. I may have had charging system problems which I tried to resolve with replacing some parts. Ultimately, I have had to go with as powerful a battery that will fit in that location to resolve the issue.
Which did seem like a suitable fix. I will have to do that cause at the end of the day it truly does sound like its not enough power and after 4 crank attempts it seems the fuel has made its way into the cylinders and the bike simply has to start. Does yours actually start on first crank when its cold(air tempture)?
+tylanshaw glad you enjoyed it! My readouts might differ depending on what is going on with your bike. Many of the displays don't list anything due to you simply engaging a part on the bike. You're not missing very much.
Awesome bro, thanks to you finally found out my injectors weren't the issue. Where can I find a list of all the codes you were reading off of? Thanks for this Vid!!
+Dallas Wooldridge glad to hear the video helped! Yeah a dead injector will certainly cause issues. You can do a search for the service manual for your specific year of bike, or I would check out the R1 Forums as they usually list trouble codes for R1's there as well.
Great video learned a lot! Would you happen to have that list you were looking at via your phone when you were going through the process. I have an 03 r1 that cranks but won't start. It sat for 2 years and I wanna get it running again but the bloody thing just cranks.
+David Haines Pulling the trouble codes might be a good place to start. Being that it is an 03, it is likely the trouble codes are different than the 2009 in this video. If you search for the 2003 service manual, you can likely find one that has the trouble codes. Also, the R1 forums will most likely have them posted for your model year as well. Engines need three things to run: Fuel, spark and air. If you verify that all three are getting to the motor then you may have a more complex issue but that is the best place to start.
+Flashwing Thanks for the info, I think I have a huge complex problem, going off your video in coils work, fuel injectors work, air flow good! endless hrs on the computer here I come, lol. Thanks again!!
+101Thrillseeker If you look in the description, you will find a link to the service manual for the 2009 year which may have the specific code information for your issue.
Hold the select and reset buttons for 8 seconds after turning the key to on and the screen will change to diag. Then press and hold select and reset again for 2 seconds to enter diagnastic mode.
Oh God sir I need your help. Hopefully you’ll notice my comment. But first of all I wanna thank you for this really helpful video. Anyways, so I check my R1 D61 and found out a lot, tho there’s nothing wrong with it currently. Checking out of curiosity, so my question is, is D61 my current errors? Or are those were all the errors in history of my bike? I reset it using D62 and it’s all gone now. But still I’m worried
+Flashwing. my bike shut off 05 r1. sounded like chain fell off but chain still on try turning on bike but onky heard click noise...sooo. i tried bump start and wheel just locks....a couple days ago riding frin wirk ny bike would hesitate or loss power. niw somecfriebds say its the stator...what do u think...and if it is. would i be a able to bump start??
Nancy Quintero the stator is certainly one possibility. If the stator is bad, the bike won't have any power to run on. The one question I have is, assuming your battery is charged, will the motor turn over at all if you hit the starter? One thing that could cause a chain breaking noise might be the camshaft chain. That controls the timing of the cams which work the intake and exhaust valves. If that chain broke, it's possible a valve made contact with a piston. That would certainly cause the motor to not start.
I'm sure you can find a form that would provide the details you need. Mostly it comes down to where your tensioner is located and what parts are available for replacement. I imagine the overall concept is similar.
Randell Ford looking back at the video, that seems to be the case. My guess would be this displays active fault codes but only for the specific cylinders so stuff like misfires or faulty injectors (if it can detect that). Otherwise, 61 would display all the fault codes stored in memory.
Folks, I have updated the description with a new link for all R1 service manuals. If you have a question about codes or specific mechanical issues, please refer to the service manual for your answers.
What a gent you are!
I used this last night to diagnose a problem with code 19 on an R1. I had the manual but it isn't really clear that the diagnostic mode was a live data monitor of the different ECM inputs. with your video I was able to figure out what those damn numbers really mean and use the manual to see how to use it all for my needs. Thank you for the video, it was easier for me to see you do it then to decipher how it is supposed to work from the text in the book. I liked the editing as well.
BTW: Code 19 is for kick stand input fault. I checked the start circuit cut off relay and the kickstand switch itself but the actual problem was a rubbed through wire at the left radiator bracket leading up to the left clip on handle bar switch. I would imagine that this is the ground wire that links the clutch switch, neutral switch and kick stand switch to the ECM. While watching diagnostic 20 and having the kickstand plug jumped I could wiggle the wires and narrow down the problem. The monitor would only got from off to on when the bare wire touched ground.
+FIREGUY24 awesome man! I'm always glad when these DIY videos come in handy. Thank you for letting me know it helped and what you were looking for.
If people are wondering, this also works on the 2014. You just have to hold the select and reset buttons until the screen clears and says diag. After that, you hold both of them again until it says d1:xx. I just tried this and it is some awesome information! Thank you for this video!
Thank you for the extra note, and I am glad this video was helpful!
thanks I was wondering why mine would go away once I release those buttons.
Thanks for the video! Just stripped my R1 down, put it all back together after tidying all the wiring and i had a check engine light. Watching your video and following each step I spotted the air inlet temp reading -22. Forgot to plug the sensor in! Cheers mate, all sorted now.
Awesome glad the video helped! Ride safe!
I dont know if you will see this Matt but you just saved me a lot of pain with this comment because i had the same issue. Thank you man!
what an amazing feature to put on a bike...working on my 07 r6 and is such a time saver and a lot less of a headache to find any problems
+Nathan Williams I totally agree! I wish this same level of function was available in cars as well. Having the ability to trigger individual spark plugs or even injectors is a troubleshooting method that, when you need it, saves a lot of time and money.
Hello. I tried to go into the diagnostic mode but I think the only thing it did looks to be a lap time. Is this a feture on the r1.
Anyone know whats d1:16 is for cant find what its for. And the couple answer i find are different things. So not sure which to trust. Cant find my manual btw
I'll just check the sensor and see what's going on with it. Saving the motor is always best option! Thanks for all your help!
Have a clicking sound under seat when trying to crank my 2014 r1 . Bad battery ???
Clicking sound likely could be a dead battery. There is a relay under there which will make that noise.
so I'm looking at your video and code 42 and 69 has to do with fuel ejector and my neutral. (42). and my oil for (69). but I don't see nothing.
+ItzChe3zy khin something must have happened to trip those codes. You could always clear them and see if they come back.
+Flashwing okay ima try that thanks
How do you clear the code? I also have code 42
Amazing share of important info for R1 owners! thanks a ton for sharing and sharing at a nice pace. Maybe the most informative R1 service video Ive ever seen thanks again.
Damn I love this video!! A fuel injection wire came unplugged then threw code 40. Ran threw this and fixed my problem after I hooked it all back up!! 110% video dude. Thanks!!!
Wesley thank you very much! I love comments like this and I'm glad the video was a huge help to you.
Bro i only get diag mode numbers from 01 to 70 there’s no 61, 62 , 63 i also have check engine light on and i don’t know how to diagnose it , please help
Helpful video but I have a question. I have a 2002 R1 with the codes 23 & 13. Air pressure and atmospheric pressure intake. I don't see that in diagonstics mode. How do I reset those codes if the sensors are working properly?
AyeOne Productions those sound like barometric sensors which will only have an impact on your closed loop fueling. Those sensors are used in conjunction with O2 sensors for fuel efficiency and are part of the emissions equipment. No worries even if they are not working quite right. I don't know if the 2002 diag mode is exactly the same, but on the 09 to 14 models I believe the "60" or "61" setting will clear codes if you flip the ignition switch.
@@FlashwingMotoVlogger amigo tengo error en la r1 2012 numero 24 que podria ser?
I have having starting issues with my 2011 R1 and this video is helping but i have a few questions for the fuel pump voltage how it should be approximately 12 should it hold 12? mine sits at 11.4 and drops fairly quickly and the more and more times i do it the number drops. i need some help
Your best bet is to either check out the R1 forums or refer to the service manual for your year of R1. I don't have much experience with failing fuel pumps if that is your issue. The service manual will tell you what the values should be. If voltage drops quickly, I would look into replacing your battery because it may simply be an issue of inadequate charging.
I'll look into it. Anyway to "fool" the sensor and or disconnect it?..?
KURTIS ALIX not that I am aware of easily, but I'm sure it could be done. I would highly suggest against it. The tip-over sensor is designed to save your engine in the event the bike falls over. The engine is designed to work upright and when it falls over, the oil pump starves as does your bearings which means you'll wreck your motor. It only takes a few seconds of oil starvation for your motor to be ruined.
Is there a way to check your oil sensor cause on my r1 the oil light comes on at high speeds and I have the right amount of oil in it
Nick if you check the R1 manual, there is a section which states that it is normal for the oil light to come on at "sustained high speeds" because the speed of the engine will have most of the oil in circulation. This means the oil level in the pan may drop below the sensor level, triggering the light.
Sorry is 223 Fahrenheit so exactly my problem is the engine shut-off some times not temperature problem the problem is when my self off the switch and in some minutes I going to start so the engine turn and not start, I remove out the key push the bottom switch off position and return the key the switch on position in this time run the engine . I think maybe is o2 sensor problem ? This problem coming when I had 3500 Kms was two times so now I've 13400 Kms and the problem is constant , do you have idea what is the problem ? Thanks you to advise me
If your neutral switch is bad would that throw a check engine light on
I'll have to look to see if it's bad . When I'm coming to a stop and braking somewhat mid to hard abc the bikes nose goes down and forks compress the bike shuts off ( fuel ) and stalls. And "30" pops up on my gauges then goes away.it happened 7 times today
KURTIS ALIX Sounds like the sensor might not be mounted at all. It has a rubberized mount it sits on to prevent it from moving around. Should be an easy fix!
Hi I have a question, I have a 2003 Yamaha R6, it seems like it does not charge the battery, is there anyway to know what is happening using the Diag mode?
Damion Simms I don't think the diagnostic mode will tell you anything about the charge system. The only way to test it is to use a multi-meter and start testing for proper voltage output at various places along the bike. I did this recently when my voltage regulator/rectifier was damaged because of a short circuit. You can test the connections on various ends of the device and see whether the stator is outputting proper voltage (test in AC mode) or whether the reg/rec is outputting correct voltage to the battery (test in DC mode).
Sir when u apply the D51 is the fan working both??
hey I was doing this procedure and I noticed when in the option of steering dampener, it just says 0 when im moving the handle bars. how can I test this?
If you follow the links in the description, you will find a link to download the R1 service manual. Within that manual, you will find that D:47 tests the damper. You flip the engine switch to put power to the solenoid and move the bars for testing. Doesn't appear there is any value readout on the gauge.
If you need more information, refer to the service manual as anything known will be in there.
I have a 2009 R1 , I opened the airbox put it back then removed the ecu I was going to send it out to be flashed , I put it back on for a quick ride got about miles away and bike shut completely off , it turns very freely like it has no intentions on starting , mean while had to put it in a truck bed to get it home so I'm sure the tip over switch is active , any idea on how to rectify this situation I'd greatly appreciate it , thx ....
Mike Ford the best place to start would be to see what trouble codes are being displayed within the diagnostic mode. I would also verify you hooked up everything properly when you took out the airbox as you may have left your fuel pump disconnected. Motors need three things to run: Fuel, air and spark. Verify all those are working before focusing on anything else.
any idea on how to take it out of diag mode, I see 12 on my tach now, telling me it's the crank position sensor (which would explain why my battery is charged and I can push the bike off to start it) but now it just keeps showing 12.
+jiggaracci you take the bike out of diag mode by turning the key to the off position. Once you turn the ignition back to on, it will reset to normal operation.
thanks, I tried that. I actually found d:62 2, so I turned the red engine switch to off, which dropped it down to 1, but I can't clear this one... So when I put the key in and turn it on, I think it's still in diag mode as it's now coming up with 12 (no signal from the crankshaft position sensor), but now I don't have any milage or anything on my tach. Just 12, so I'm thinking it's still in diag mode, when before I did the diag mode, it didn't come up with 12.
jiggaracci that is very unusual. I would try removing the battery connections for about 10 minutes and then trying again to see if that clears it. It should not be going back into diag mode by simply turning the ignition to the on position.
yea I just tried that again. It seems that if I take out the computer that's behind the battery (Unplug those 2 interfaces) my tach shows correctly but will not start. The moment I plug them back in, it goes back to 12
jiggaracci sounds like you may have some ECU issues then. That is certainly not supposed to behave that way.
Mine is 15 to 27 throttle position sensor is that bad ?
I don't know. You will need to consult the service manual and see what the proper range is for that sensor.
my bike was stolen a week ago...but got my bike back .. they cut the ignition wire...
i reconnect the wire start up my bike .. but my gear indicator don't show what gear i'm at now and the neutral light is on all the time...
what can i do to fix it.. ?
You will need to either trace the wiring, or get a hold of a wiring diagram to see what specific wires were cut. If neither of those lights turn off, it is likely there is a cut in the wire somewhere or a problem with the sensor itself. That's the best answer I can provide. Wiring diagrams can be found in the service manual for your specific bike.
Flashwing thank you I'll check it out..
badass i did not know that. i have the same bike do you have any idea why the R1 symbol in the display does not stay on, on my bike? it comes on when it starts and the dash works but just shuts right off after
+shoot n ride I think there is a separate option to adjust all that stuff. It is the setting area where you adjust the shift light RPM and pattern, as well as toggle on / off the R1 symbol. Off the top of my head I don't remember the sequence but if you google how to adjust the clock / shift light you should find it.
+Flashwing ok ill try that thank you
You said you had a module that went bad that activated the neutral switch. Did that make the neutral light fade in and out? My light come off and on intermittently and im having some serious issues starting it at this point. The light has been like that for a long time never really thought about it, just dealt with it. But im wondering if maybe that is the problem. I have new plugs and a new battery. Im going to check the fuel system today, now that i know how. ha. thank you for the video.
Kcin27 glad you found the video helpful. My issue was ultimately related to a flat battery. The bike behaved in an unexpected fashion when the batter was very low. There is a safety relay which only allows power to the starter motor when a combination of safety devices are active like the kickstand or neutral switch and clutch. When the battery was low, that relay made a nasty buzzing noise. I've not seen issues with the switch flickering except when I had an electrical short and the stator could barely keep up with powering the bike.
It is just a process of elimination. Test what you suspect to be bad, and narrow down the list.
Hey flashwing I have a " F: " on my 2013 Yamaha R1 display on my speedo and the motor is not firing up - its cranking but not starting - and info you can help me with ???
KURTIS ALIX is it displayed next to any mileage? An "F" will display when you've reached your 0.8 gallon fuel reserve. Do you have a low fuel warning light?
Hi i got some problemOn my r1 2010. I just change my battery and my voltage shown 12.2 and i check my magnetic coil still in good condition. When i on my ignition and start to crank wont start can i know what is the problem?? Is it starter relay? Or something??
Hard to know without looking at the bike myself. The bike will still crank even without the alternator, it just won't power anything. You'll have to follow the wiring and ensure the starter is properly powered and functioning and go from there.
My engine when is at high temperature 123 Fahrenheit I myself shut-off the engine after any seconds one more time I want start my engine so it not start the engine only turn to crank so I need close off the switch key and in some times start with difficult the rpm is slow after is rpm normally I test every sensors so everything is correct . Do you can help me ?i think is ECU problem .
Hey Daniel. 123 degrees Fahrenheit isn't considered to be high temperature. Normal operating temperatures for bikes tend to be 180 degrees or higher. If that is 123 degrees Celsius, that equates to over 256 degrees Fahrenheit which is a very high temperature. If you are seeing high temperatures like that, you need to check your cooling system including your water pump to see if it is functioning.
Without seeing the bike in person I won't be much help with diagnosing your problem. My best advice is to find the web forum for your specific bike and search for posts about your issue. I imagine someone else out there has had the same problem as you.
Hey guys, I have a 2012 yamaha R1 and for some reasons it starts up just fine but no throttle response and the engine light came on. Any ideas? Thank you for the help
Hi bro
I need to know how do I able to change the 2012 R1 fans working on temperature, I am in sataying in middle east and over here it's very hard to use the bike especially at day time So there is any thing I can change my r1 fans work on 200 f because my bike default fans are start working on 220 f ,I Had one 2010 r1 Which was import from USA and I noticed that bike fans was working on 200 f ,thanks
+Muhammed _ I can't speak about other model years, but my 2009 R1 doesn't turn on the fans until 225 degrees fahrenheit and I believe that is standard. The only way you can change the fan temperature is to flash the ECU with a new tune. There are a few tuners that you can send your ECU to them and they will flash it and send it back. That is really the only way to change that setting.
Yes you are right bro and thank you for the reply.
Hi...need help for my r1 2010.when aggressive riding the engine oil light is come out.do u have any experience on this case..PLZ HELP ME
+Norzarif zainal abidin my understanding is this is normal. The engine, at sustained high RPMs, will have most of the oil in circulation and it will trigger the low oil light. The only "fix" is to add just a little bit extra oil during your oil change.
tq brother..will try to change the oil engine soon..
Norzarif zainal abidin the R1 owners manual also has a warning about this. I nearly panic'd the first time I saw this but nothing to worry about.
Owh i see..but i cannot find in manual..😂😂 can u screenshot picture..
Norzarif zainal abidin if you search for it via google, you should find information showing that.
You said you were having start issues? Could you explain what was happening and what fixed it?
It ended up being a bad battery. The bike would crank but just didn't seem to have enough cranking ability to start, despite it sounding like it did. My understanding is the crossplane requires a bit more umph to start than other inline-4's.
I confirmed the starter was in good shape and replaced the battery. I now keep the bike on a battery tender when it isn't ridden more than a couple days.
Okay that sounds different than my problem. My bike cutoff on me at a red light and didn't want to start until I cut the ignition off and back on. Now if I twist the throttle a couple times real quick it dies also. Not sure what it is but with the bike running it only charges at 13.5 so Im not sure if its the generator or not.
well my cluster works does that mean stator is ok?....i need to charge battery too ti answervur question i havent got to thT BUT WILL
Nancy Quintero your cluster should work provided you have enough battery power to run it. The voltage regulator / rectifier allows your battery to power the instrument cluster while the bike's motor isn't running, but the stator powers all the bike's electronics when the engine is on. The fact that your cluster still works doesn't tell us very much at this point.
My main concern is whether or not your engine turns over. If the motor is somehow seized, that could mean there was a failure with the cam chain. If it turns over but doesn't start, that could be a stator issue.
Hard to know more without seeing the bike, but those are my best guesses as an inexperienced hobbyist mechanic :-).
Hi flashwing
thank you so much for this video
i got an issue with the air intake sensor (engine light pops up @ high rev. turning bike off and on gets rid of it till i do it again)
is it something i shouldnt worry about or does it affect the engine ?
cheers
pascal piana I would certainly check it out. It would depend on which air intake sensor is having an issue. Modern ECU's sometimes use incoming airflow data to calculate fuel delivery and the check engine light at high RPM's could be a sign of ignition breakup or misfires. Neither are good and could, if left broken, lead to issues.
Best suggestion is to pull the trouble code, then check it against the manual for your bike to see what the code is for. That should give you a better idea of the issue.
Please brother help me got a question bike had the check engine come on lost all reving power wouldn’t rev at all changed the both sensors turned it back on still not letting me rev is that cause the old check engine is still on ? And one more thing is 2011 considered obd2?
Likely obd2 as canbus may not have made it to 2011 model year. Hard to say but if you still have a CEL after changing sensors then you need to pull codes and go through the diag mode and check throttle position etc. Bike may be in limp mode as a result.
@@FlashwingMotoVlogger dude thanks alot ima grab the 4 pin to obd2 plug clear and hopefully it works out one thing I can say is whenever that light came on it completely stopped all movement of bike when it went away out of nowhere it drove fine again so I’m hoping it’s just that but ima do what u said go threw diag is there a way to take it out limp mode sorry for the bother brother ?
@angelteamnolimit624 if it's in limp mode it's due to an issue so the only way to resolve it will be to fix whatever problem there is. If you clear the CEL and it comes back then hopefully you have enough information to find the issue.
@@FlashwingMotoVlogger well this the thing when the check engine came on I lost all throttle response when I did research people where saying it throttle position sensor and accel sensor so I put them new but never cleared the code so I’m hoping it’s just clearing the code so ima get the adapter give it a try I remember when there was no light it was perfect but when light came on I got the issues so I’m hoping that clears with the new parts added just brings it back to clear I was hearing u can clear the codes from the screen in getting number 15
How u take it out limp mode
hi there mate.any chance you can help me out.i do have a r1 2010 and when i turn the ignition on theres no priming sound.dash have check engine light,service and on high temp. theres an error code too 1,2..i just got the bike and i know the issue is theres no priming sound on it but dont know about whats on the dash.hope you can help me out.thanks
All the error codes and diagnostic methods are going to be in the bike service manual. The link I have in the description should still work for you to access it. You can also use the diag mode provided in this video to test various items.
If it is error code 12 then the service manual would show that it is a faulty crankshaft position sensor.
All your answers will be in the service manual.
Hello , (I'm using a translator ) I 'm from chile and I have a problem with my r1 2011 , could you please help me?
A few days ago the engine failure light is lit , at 5 min trailed off , then lit with the light of the fuel , but the pond was full ...... that may be failing ????
thanks for the help we can !!!!
+Cr Ja hi there! Without much more information, I have no idea what your problem could be. You need to pull engine codes and do more troubleshooting. That is the best advice I can offer.
hello any help please
I jet washed my r1 2010 ride it home 2 hours later turned on the bike and code error 31 show then the electronics start playing up arlam datatool s4 then started showing 51 60 error code the fuel injection how staying on not going off then the keys wouldn't work nothing comes on now only indicaters? bike been in garage for 5 days still nothing
Miguel I'm sorry to hear about your issues with your 2010. It is very likely your issue may be electrical in nature given that it worked prior to you washing the bike with a high pressure washer. The first thing I would suggest, is using the link in the video description to download the service manual for your model year. Looking through the manual, I can't find any mention of "error 31" or the specific error or fault codes you provided. There is a fault code 60 I found which reports to a possible throttle body malfunction, or issue with the ECU.
Given the nature of your issue, I would suggest using the service manual to try and diagnose your issue. Without being able to see the bike in person there is very little advice I can offer other than that.
thanks for help
I can't do much cause nothing is working, I was hoping it would dry up if the water went into electrics clock don't cone on
Some of the easy stuff to check would be fuses and connectors. The ECU is a pretty major part as is the instrument cluster. You can pull the connectors apart, inspect for water or burn marks which could tell you if something happened. You may just have to work the problem backwards, checking to ensure parts of the harness work properly using a multi-meter as well.
Electrical issues are pretty tough and time consuming but the service manual will give you about everything you need to work the problem. It may just take time.
I have xenon on my motorcycle and in test d: 52 headlight relay I try to turn on and it turned off and I left the diagnosis.
Could it be because of the xenon lamps?
Could be. Best way to know is to put in standard bulbs and see if you can reproduce the problem.
1. how do i get the code for my check engine light and
2.my closed throttle position is 20 and my open throttle postion is 22...yes really. please help
I believe I cover #1 in the video where you scroll to around the #60 area and it should display any active codes. As for #2, sounds like you have a problem with your throttle position sensor or some aspect of your intake. I provided links in the description to a couple service manuals that will suggest potential fixes for failures on each specific code so be sure to check it out.
+Flashwing, jist saw tjat you covered number one right after i posted that comment. but my check engine light turned off and i cant get it to turn bacl no no matter how hard i tried and most symptoms are slowly fixing themselves. i have a feelings its a TPS issue and im gonna replace it altogether. (bike sat for a month outside uncovered in the weather so it develped several problems. but ove seen it rev over 3-4k rpm before i bought it.
Ezra Bunnell sounds like additional troubleshooting needs to be done. Being unable to rev over 3k to 4k RPM's could be issues with a fuel pump or your secondary shower injectors which likely kick in above that RPM.
Engines need three things: Fuel, air and spark. Confirm which of those are working properly and you'll likely find the source of your issue.
+Flashwing, hey so, i looked alittle more into it and im getting codes 14 and 16 on d61 (after i reset the codes). which is APS is recieving the wrong signal and the TPS is jamming. i went ahead and purchased a new throttle body complete assembly. theres some janked up wiring under the tank, so im gonna. TPS is now 20-21 so i am losing range. also, my nike is in desperate need of a retune, fuel to air ratio is off. its running too lean. i will update when the work is finished.
Hey I had a question I just went into diag mode my bike starts then bogs down after my gf connected my battery the opposite way . On 61 it’s show multiple codes what could that mena ? My ECu is bad ?
It is very difficult to diagnose the bike without seeing it in person. The diag mode is designed to test various components and trouble codes are there to help narrow down the issue. However, given that your issue is likely electrical, I have no way to know what the issue might be. Reversing the polarity on a battery can do some severe damage to internals. You're going to need to refer to the service manual and likely do more part testing. Bogging could be faulty injectors, faulty fuel pump, or issues with the ECU. I'm sorry I couldn't be more help.
Flashwing Hey I went through the process my codes were being thrown by a blown fuse for the ETV, I went back through and orders and manual and saw the fuses figure Yamaha would have a safety device for reverse polarity
@@whyimihereforlifelol great news! Fuses are easy and cheap to replace while ECU's are hard and expensive. Glad that worked out!
I have a question. If I realize that the parameters of trhottle position are wrong how i have to do to modifier to a corrects numbers?
If the numbers are wrong, I would look into replacing defective parts. You don't want to take chances with a throttle that incorrectly reports values to the ECU.
@@FlashwingMotoVlogger What defective parts in this case?
@@Jordi-rj1rr not sure. I have the service manual attached on the video description so you'll want to see what it suggests regarding incorrect throttle position.
please i need help!
my 2006 R1 will not shift into 3 and up. it feels like it hit a wall every time i shift. can anyone give me a clue?
+Ashdale daley if it won't physically shift then you likely have a clutch of transmission issue. You're going to have to diagnose further with the service manual or have a mechanic take a look.
+Flashwing money is kinda tight now. it shifts through all the gears while on a stand and not running. once i start it up, gears 1 and 2 will engage but no 3 and up.
***** sounds like there is an issue when the transmission is under load and on the road. Hard to say much more without looking at the bike physically. You may do some searching on the R1 forums to see if anyone else has had the same issue.
where can i get the fault codes for 06 r1? my bike wont start , i put a new battery and still noting .
If you check out the R1 forums, or do a google search for fault codes for the 06 you should be able to find them.
Sir it.s same use for yamaha r6 2014?
What do you do if you have no headlights and your fans not coming on but the fuses are not blown
I would consult the service manual for your bike and start tracing and checking the electrical side of the bike.
@flashwing is there anyway to check my startor motor on my 11 r1 with out having to pull it out???please help!thanks in advance!
If you're having to check things like whether the coils are burnt or if the motor is bad, you'll likely have to pull it out to inspect it. It sucks as I had to do it to verify whether mine was bad, only to discover it was just fine.
thanks man another question if u dnt mind is it possible for my battery wires to fail if they got wet?I went down seat popedup and everything got wet pretty bad all fuses are good though and got a new battery just worried about wires and a connection I check that looked to be corroded wire brushed it off not sure what the part is but what's are your thoughts bro ??? appreciate it
Very cool video... Had no clue this was a thing. Now to go try it on my '12 R1
Where can I buy the scanner for my yamaha r6
Flashwing...Iam having throttle problems with my 09 r1..I go into diag mode and code 1 being tps sensor after learning from you"thanxs" is at 16 and doesn't go to 101...like tps 14 and 15...I have warranty and dealer wants to erase all my maps from pc5 and start over cause they say TPS is fine and accurate...they say it's getting 100% throttle when I turn it on...any help would be awesome ty...
So you're pulling up the throttle position sensor diagnostic, turning the throttle and it stays at 14 or 15 and never goes any higher?
14 and 15 work perfect...goes to 101 from 16...I have bike with me...code 1 starts at 16 goes to 58 then doesn't do anything stays at 16 never 101.
I feal TPS sensor they say it's not and want to remap my pc5
Sorry ya stays at 16...
Unless the PC5 intercepts that sensor signal I can't see why the PC5 map would be part of the problem. Sounds like the most sure method would be to remove the PC5 and test it again to see if the problem still exists. If so, then the PC5 obviously isn't the issue. I imagine getting the maps back on the PC5 would be more difficult than simply uninstalling it but I don't have experience with that unit so I can't be certain.
Mahalo bro!! You helped me find an issue. Fixed and ready for ride! 🤙
Glad to help! Ride safe!
Can the Fareinheight be changed to Celcius ?
+virtual120 that I am not sure about. I imagine it can be. Their manual is online so you can always refer to that for an answer.
Cracking video man, I’m just trying to diagnose a starting problem on my brother in laws 2010 R1 ... it won’t start when it’s hot.
I replaced the stator and regulator as it wasn’t charging. I hope this helps me. 👍
I to have this problem after mine gets to about 76-108°c if I turn the bike off it will not start until the temp is less than 76ish.
Also feels like the bike is misfiring and some times the bike stalls
#flashwing do you have a copy of diagnostic codes with the corresponding units it actuates? thanks a lot..
the only place I have found them was through the R1forums.com site and you can just look them up based on your model year. you can also search for the service manual in Google and download the PDF file.
+Flashwing thanks a lot
i have a 2013 r1. just had the fork seals replaced. 30 mins later engine light comes on. i can turn the bike off and start again and the engine like will be off. dont show a code
If there was an engine light, it should have stored a fault code which you can pull via the diag mode. I believe D:60 will flash any fault codes stored in the ECU. Even if the engine light goes off, the fault codes should still be stored until they are cleared. When I first checked mine, I had fault codes from a crash 2 years prior well after I fixed everything and the engine light had been off.
Links to the service manuals are in the video description. Under the "Fuel Injection" segment, there are all the diagnostic and fault codes along with information on what to check or what could be wrong. That should get you started.
so i can go into diag mode and pull the code? i wanna say i saw one when i left the gas station. believe it was 02 i may be wrong. when i saw that i shut it off then went to start again. Then no code
Yep, watch the video and follow instructions on entering diag mode. Find the error code diag setting, and it will flash the fault codes. If there is more than one, it will flash the codes in 2 second intervals.
thanks man
Glad to help!
Any one tell me, I saw in many bikes. Red light blink on display meter of bikes..
How can I clear the check engine light it's on
You will want to determine the cause of the CEL using the methods in this video and then follow the service manual instructions for clearing the light.
hello hopefully somebody can help me, how do I fix code 43? thanks
Alex you can find a link to the R1 service manual in the description which should tell you what to test and replace with that code.
+Flashwing isn't a R1 it's an R6 2008
+Flashwing Much appreciated ur help u're a legend thanks
Awesome to find out about this resource on the bike, I will be going home to run through it today, I actually dropped my bike recently and been having a throttle issue, I was wondering if maybe you could give me some input on it
Thanks bro, you saved the day! My check engine came on cuz I have the bike on pedestal and was on 1st gear.
Glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching!
@truaz1an hey, what is the fault code for that, and how did you reset it?
I did the same thing... smh..
Can you please let me know Where did you buy that rear seat cowl ??
Deak Krisztian that's a Yamaha factory part. You may still be able to buy it from anywhere that gets OEM equipment.
Thanks for your video, I need to know where I can get those codes and meaning.
Max you should be able to search google for the service manual and they have the codes listed in the troubleshooting section of the manual.
Check engine censor. How can I take it off after change the oil ?
You will need to refer to the service manual I've listed in the description and use the diagnostic tool to figure out which code is being reported.
Thanks a lot buddy! I just got this 2013 R1 so I'm just familiarizing myself with all the new technology. It's much more complex than my 98-03-06 r1s. It reminds me of my R7 I had the pleasure if owning in the early 2000s. Now I'm getting error code 30 on the bike which is the tilt sensor. Trying to find out where it is mounted. I believe it's in the front under the cowl/ side of headlight?
KURTIS ALIX nope, tilt sensor is in the tail section. Should be a box mounted towards the back of the section where the front seat sits.
Fixed the tilt sensor ( I forgot to tighten the two screws - dumb ass move on my part ). Bike turns on now but as soon as I put it into gear it shuts off and stalls. That's usually the safety neutral switch but it's not throwing a code or error- and when I go thru diagnosis mode it's not logged in on 60-61 or 62 to clear anything. Shows "0" and nothing to clear or look for . What r your thoughts ?
KURTIS ALIX There is a test method for your neutral switch and your kickstand. Also, be sure to test the readout for your tint sensor. There should be a setting that will give you a specific voltage reading to ensure that the sensor is correctly reporting the bike's position as upright.
anyone know what error code 1 is??? please help!
Does this work on a 2008 R6??
I have no idea. You'll have check your service manual for specifics on that bike.
Great thing to know about the 09 R1....
I just bought a 04 r1 and the seller informed me that he adjusted the lower TPS to help with a stalling. ( said it was originally at 1496 and he adjusted it clockwise to 1690) those numbers dont make sense to me especially after watching your video. So what I found out when driving it home is that it runs rich when warm. slight shudder when cruising. When coming to a light after 40 miles I had a difficult time keeping it running. I had to hold a high idle cause I could smell the richness and had to keep clearing it out.
have any suggestions?
thanks
steve ricci throttle is 18-97, fault codes are 18,22,30,48 if this helps.
steve ricci you're probably not going to get much value from this video due to the fact that the 2004 and 2009 model years are very different bikes using two different engines and ECU's. The diagnostic mode here would only apply for 2009 - 2014 as those models years are nearly identical.
I would start by checking the fault codes listed using the 2004 service manual. It looks like you may have issues with your tilt sensor, intake air temp sensor, and a couple servo motors. You can download the manual here: api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_143422815290513&key=523976d7d4b4995fcbf65f6e437c79e3&libId=iavib8kb01000ayc000DLb40x6ucl&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.r1-forum.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D127504&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mediafire.com%2Fdownload%2Fw3y95r0i89v04c2%2Fcarlsalter.com_Yamaha_YZF-R1S(SC)_2004_Service_Manual.pdf&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=2004%20R1%20Fault%20Codes%20and%20Diagnostic%20Codes%20%3A%20Yamaha%20R1%20Forum&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mediafire.com%2Fdownload%2Fw3...ice_Manual.pdf
Your video was very helpful, showed how to access the codes and tps readings. I have a coil fault for cyl 1. Your video was great.
I actually need to recheck the code. Some say 30 is tip sendor and others say coil. Rings like a misfire when it gets hot. I will clear the codes and re duplicate the fault so i am not lead into the wrong direction
steve ricci awesome! I'm glad it helped in some way! I don't have much experience with older versions of the R1 so I have no clue if the codes are standard or even if the diag modes are similar. I'm happy you got some benefit out of it!
Great video bro.
What exactly did you repair or adjust when correcting your no start problem? Im having so issues. I know the crossplanes arent the easiest to start and on a cold start it takes about 4 crank attempts before mine finally fires up with no throttle assistance as it should be. Once the bikes hot it has no issue usually firing right back up. Its at 24,000k and the previous owner did drop it. It almost sounds like the batterie starts failing to pull the load on start up or as if the timing is off but ive checked timing and it has a brand new battery. Hit me back. I would love to know what you did to resolve your issue.
The issue was a weak battery. I may have had charging system problems which I tried to resolve with replacing some parts. Ultimately, I have had to go with as powerful a battery that will fit in that location to resolve the issue.
Which did seem like a suitable fix. I will have to do that cause at the end of the day it truly does sound like its not enough power and after 4 crank attempts it seems the fuel has made its way into the cylinders and the bike simply has to start. Does yours actually start on first crank when its cold(air tempture)?
Great explenation, exacltly what I was looking for
Thank you dude.. My throttle isnt doing shit, showing it working on the screen but not working the motor im sure this will help
Finally a real useful good video! Thank you!
12:54 is for the people looking for the headlight relay section like I was :) it’s number 52 on the diagnostics !
Nice vídeo! it would be great if the camera was closer to the display to see what shows up!
+tylanshaw glad you enjoyed it! My readouts might differ depending on what is going on with your bike. Many of the displays don't list anything due to you simply engaging a part on the bike. You're not missing very much.
Awesome bro, thanks to you finally found out my injectors weren't the issue. Where can I find a list of all the codes you were reading off of?
Thanks for this Vid!!
+Dallas Wooldridge glad to hear the video helped! Yeah a dead injector will certainly cause issues. You can do a search for the service manual for your specific year of bike, or I would check out the R1 Forums as they usually list trouble codes for R1's there as well.
Great video learned a lot! Would you happen to have that list you were looking at via your phone when you were going through the process. I have an 03 r1 that cranks but won't start. It sat for 2 years and I wanna get it running again but the bloody thing just cranks.
+David Haines Pulling the trouble codes might be a good place to start. Being that it is an 03, it is likely the trouble codes are different than the 2009 in this video. If you search for the 2003 service manual, you can likely find one that has the trouble codes. Also, the R1 forums will most likely have them posted for your model year as well. Engines need three things to run: Fuel, spark and air. If you verify that all three are getting to the motor then you may have a more complex issue but that is the best place to start.
+Flashwing Thanks for the info, I think I have a huge complex problem, going off your video in coils work, fuel injectors work, air flow good! endless hrs on the computer here I come, lol. Thanks again!!
Absolute legend ❤️
how do I fix code 69 for a 12 r1
+101Thrillseeker If you look in the description, you will find a link to the service manual for the 2009 year which may have the specific code information for your issue.
That was very very cool
Who knew that bikes could have all that :)
Thumbs up very good video
Love the counter. I had a teacher that would always say ummkay it's all I could concentrate on. Never learned anything in 8th grade math.
Hold the select and reset buttons for 8 seconds after turning the key to on and the screen will change to diag. Then press and hold select and reset again for 2 seconds to enter diagnastic mode.
Thanks!
Oh God sir I need your help. Hopefully you’ll notice my comment. But first of all I wanna thank you for this really helpful video.
Anyways, so I check my R1 D61 and found out a lot, tho there’s nothing wrong with it currently. Checking out of curiosity, so my question is, is D61 my current errors? Or are those were all the errors in history of my bike? I reset it using D62 and it’s all gone now. But still I’m worried
i have a question
?
Nancy Quintero what can I help you with?
+Flashwing. my bike shut off 05 r1. sounded like chain fell off but chain still on try turning on bike but onky heard click noise...sooo. i tried bump start and wheel just locks....a couple days ago riding frin wirk ny bike would hesitate or loss power. niw somecfriebds say its the stator...what do u think...and if it is. would i be a able to bump start??
Nancy Quintero the stator is certainly one possibility. If the stator is bad, the bike won't have any power to run on. The one question I have is, assuming your battery is charged, will the motor turn over at all if you hit the starter?
One thing that could cause a chain breaking noise might be the camshaft chain. That controls the timing of the cams which work the intake and exhaust valves. If that chain broke, it's possible a valve made contact with a piston. That would certainly cause the motor to not start.
i want this details for hayabusa
I'm sure you can find a form that would provide the details you need. Mostly it comes down to where your tensioner is located and what parts are available for replacement. I imagine the overall concept is similar.
Thanks for your reply
So a Error code 60 is a cylinder error
Randell Ford looking back at the video, that seems to be the case. My guess would be this displays active fault codes but only for the specific cylinders so stuff like misfires or faulty injectors (if it can detect that). Otherwise, 61 would display all the fault codes stored in memory.
thanks man it ended up being a short in a wire , this vide is awesome
Randell Ford sounds like it was an easy fix! Glad I was able to help somehow.
Nice info - Thanks budd
Thank you for the informative video
👍😇
+C Hamm (Bone) you're welcome! Thank you for commenting and watching!
Good job
wonder ful guide, it is really helpful. thanks a lot
Nirbhowjap Singh glad I could help! I wish something like this came with most cars because it's very useful. Thanks for watching and for commenting!
THANK YOU this helps me very well man
szczepan28oppl awesome! Glad it was helpful.
thanx a million...helpt me fix some problems
+Aant Maaknieuut awesome! Glad it was helpful!
Thank u so much . Excellent video....
Great video! well done
Great job man... thanks
ALEX EL CANTANTE thanks for watching!
very very helpful appreciate it
+Joe Anthony Arana good to hear! Thanks for the comment!
Insightful.......nice one
+Ikhide Izokpu thanks, glad you found the video useful!