First, EVERYtime I see Josh, I think, "Baker Mayfield". Guys could be brothers. Second, always appreciate Josh's videos, and the effort he gives making them. Great job.
THANK YOU for showing, in detail, how to frame a doorway in a load bearing wall. I have watched I don't know how many videos on here trying to find someone who gets to the point and goes into detail. Excellent content!
I wonder if there is a reason for an interior wall with a window🤔 Any ideas? ⏱TIMESTAMPS⏱ 0:00 Intro 2:16 How to layout for a door opening 3:29 How to build a load bearing door opening 8:53 How to build a non load bearing interior door opening 12:47 Load bearing vs non load bearing walls
I've seen it in model homes from fancy landry into living area..guess so don't feel isolated also from art rooms..not for me but if they want it..it looked ok..
A window from kitchen to liver or dinning room ( maybe more a shelf then a window ) so if some ones cooking they can just pass a tray through and place on the table rather then walk around.
Hey Josh ... rewatching. My last comment was 6 months ago ... and you had 14k subs in April. Today, Tuesday October 12, 2021 and you have 37.7k subs. You do the math. super happy for you!
Now I see the beauty in your subscriber counting! It’s amazing to see the numbers and dates together! I appreciate you doing that man! You definitely are keeping me motivated Thor!
Great video! We've had to work through this as well while building our new house. We're almost done with the framing, but our interior walls are 10' and so according to code (2018 IRC) we don't meet the under 24" to top of wall needed to be considered a non-loadbearing header. We ended up using a double 2x6 header with a 1/2" piece of plywood between for all the interior doors.
On a non load bearing wall, I would use two flat 2x4s, or make a 2x4 header w 1/2" plywood in between so that you have a nailer for the edge of door casing.
Someone told me to use 2x6s for headers for interior doors to eliminate shake I'm the wall when you close doors or if doors get slammed. Is that ok? Why would I do that over 2x4s? Is it really worth the extra for the 2x6s?
Will you add more 2 x 4's to make double top plates on the load bearing walls? What about the non load bearing walls, just a single top plate, and is that top plate lower bearing height than the load bearing wall double top plates so they don't pick up load from a roof truss or second floor truss?
I have a very quick question... that last wall that you put up the non weight bearing wall... the door opening, do you cut that 2x4 off the bottom with a skilsaw? It gets removed right? People would trip on it, when do you cut that off?
@@jeremysharp7079 Cut it out after the wall is set. Do not do it before because the wall not be as strong and stay square like it should. Good question though!
Great video. You said to add 2 inches for the width when building the opening. How much do you add to the height of the door? Also, I’m adding a closet in my attic and the walls will connect to the rafters. Should I consider that a load bearing wall?
When laying out the wall with the 2 x 4 framing does it matter how the crown of the wood is? How far off is acceptable as far as the bow? Do you buy kiln dried?
I have no framing experience but lots of DIY experience and patience. I want to install double french doors on a new interior wall. Would you recommend using a pre-hung door vs trying to build my own door frame? Is that not worth the additional time and effort? Thanks!
How much weight would you say a nonbearing wall can support? For example, if a client wants some heavy cabinets to be hung from the wall. If everyong is mounted into the studs, how many pounds can a nonbearing wall support? (Per stud?)
I have a question for you. I want to build a wall in my bedroom to divide the office space. When building the doorway do you omit the footer in the doorway?😊
@@TheExcellentLaborer I have worked with some framers that like 2 boards laid flat or stood on edge for future trim work and door hanging. Not saying it's right just think maybe that's why he was taught that.👍
Do you leave the bottom strut across the doorframe? Or do you cut it out after the framed wall is nailed down? Great walk through, definitely helped me understand what I was missing.
You just have to rack it if needed, then level and brace it. Once the trusses,roof sheathing and siding plywood is installed then and only then you remove all your bracing from exterior walls and interior walls.
If you are framing a partition wall non load bearing in a basement with unfinished sheetrock on the ceiling can I attach the Wall to the joist above through the sheetrock
It was a excellent review, my only question is about the 2in opening added to the width of the door. Is that in 90% cases? First time building walls and its fun.
Yes it’s a standard way to build a door opening that works for all interior doors. So if you want a 30 inch door opening you just make the rough opening 32 inch. Thanks for watching!
oh oh .... i got time to blast comments on some more vids! great job again look at those subscribers coming in .... don't forget us little people that were here in the beginning. Saturday April 10, 2021. 14k subs
@@TheExcellentLaborer oh haha no no that didn't happen. I was referencing the guards of SKYRIM who say they were an adventurer like you till they took an arrow to the knee. However i have rolled a quad bike over landing on my calf right under my knee that wasn't much fun either.
@@TheExcellentLaborer: I know someone who is a city inspector. They came by and looked at my work, and said I did everything correctly -- I thank you for producing these helpful videos which were helpful to me in building framing for walls and windows, etc.
@@RandolfRichardson You are welcome! I’m glad you got your project through inspection. Those are always nerve-racking. I appreciate you watching as well. Stay tuned for more content!
@@TheExcellentLaborer: It wasn't a formal inspection, but a neighbour who is a professional city inspector who helped me out, so not nerve-racking in this case -- it's always great to get professional opinions though. Do you happen to have any videos on installing deadlite windows properly? I have a big one with no flange, and the frame doesn't have any space for drilling into from the inside.
@@TheExcellentLaborer yeah I watched them. Good stuff...I just need idiot proof specifications. None on youtube for loft conversion/shed dormer type layout, it's all like time lapse polka dancing everything but...
You must first find out what is causing the moisture problem. After that is fixed you’re going to have to use bleach to kill the mold. Then paint over that area. And depending how bad it is you may have to replace the drywall.
@@TheExcellentLaborer to find out the problem I think I have to cut the ceiling to see inside and ceiling gets very soft during winter so I think I need to replace the drywall in that area, can you please suggest
@@avantvlogs6334 Yes or get in the attic before you do that to find the leak. Common problems or roof leaks, water pipe leaks, HVAC condensation, HVAC condensation pump leak, etc.
Whene the 2” were added to the door opening, how’d you get that number? I understood the 3” on either side, but there did you get 2” from? Reference 2:40
So if you have a 30 inch door for example, you would make the rough opening 32 inches. You had an inch on each side of the door slab measurement. Does that make sense?
@@TheExcellentLaborer, thank you for this video, and commenting under here..."one inch on each side" It's also about the top, or only the two lateral sides? Another question, the bottom plate it's of course not even with the floor. Would that be cut later? Thank you.
@@robbyvenetian The door width given on the blueprints is the actual width of the door itself, not including the frame. The extra 2-inch width you add for the rough opening is for the jams and shim spaces. You have a 3/4 inch jam on each side, so that's 1 1/2 inches, then a 1/4 inch space on each side for shims make up the 2 extra inches.
In my area, especially if you have two floors, building inspector requires a box header. 2x12 vertical triple with half-inch filler in between to take up the dead space and then a 2x6 laying down on the top and bottom of the 2x12s. Kinda overkill, don't ya think? Lol If it's a 2x4 wall, then the top and bottom is, of course a flat 2x4, then double 2x12 verticals in the box header.
Another question, Where are fire blocks used? Any on interior walls or on a garage wall? Non load bearing walls? Thankyou, great videos, I’m an electrician enclosing a car port, no nothing about framing
I am building a food truck. I removed the rolltop door and now I have to build a wall with a door frame in it. That’s 36 inches wide. Can you help me with that?
If its an interior partition wall ie inside non load bearing. Then i believe just simply measureing the length for the angle is all. You could cut and remove the tile where the bottom plate is or just put it over it. I'd assume you would put a trim piece on the bottom once you drywall it.
Great video! Wear your damn safety glasses man. I hate em but they have savex my eyes more than once! They make them in nice designs both shaded and non that doesn't make you look like Bob Vila 2.0
Hey James! Yes I definitely should have had them on. It was a stupid mistake I made. Bob Vila 2.0 😂 . It's crazy to think that I have recently made videos wiring that very room I was framing. Check them out. Thanks for commenting!
Best video in regards to framing interior load bearing and non-load bearing walls
Thank you so much TJ Flynn! That means a lot to me. Stay tuned!
First, EVERYtime I see Josh, I think, "Baker Mayfield". Guys could be brothers. Second, always appreciate Josh's videos, and the effort he gives making them. Great job.
THANK YOU for showing, in detail, how to frame a doorway in a load bearing wall. I have watched I don't know how many videos on here trying to find someone who gets to the point and goes into detail. Excellent content!
I wonder if there is a reason for an interior wall with a window🤔 Any ideas?
⏱TIMESTAMPS⏱
0:00 Intro
2:16 How to layout for a door opening
3:29 How to build a load bearing door opening
8:53 How to build a non load bearing interior door opening
12:47 Load bearing vs non load bearing walls
I have installed many interior windows for offices. Is that what you're asking?
I've seen it in model homes from fancy landry into living area..guess so don't feel isolated also from art rooms..not for me but if they want it..it looked ok..
A window from kitchen to liver or dinning room ( maybe more a shelf then a window ) so if some ones cooking they can just pass a tray through and place on the table rather then walk around.
@@JS-rv3et it’s a good idea to make a convenient way to pass food!
@@TheExcellentLaborer could do the same thing to pass from the kitchen to the patio or back deck for BBQ season or pool partys ect.
Hey Josh ... rewatching. My last comment was 6 months ago ... and you had 14k subs in April. Today, Tuesday October 12, 2021 and you have 37.7k subs. You do the math. super happy for you!
Now I see the beauty in your subscriber counting! It’s amazing to see the numbers and dates together! I appreciate you doing that man! You definitely are keeping me motivated Thor!
Great video! We've had to work through this as well while building our new house. We're almost done with the framing, but our interior walls are 10' and so according to code (2018 IRC) we don't meet the under 24" to top of wall needed to be considered a non-loadbearing header. We ended up using a double 2x6 header with a 1/2" piece of plywood between for all the interior doors.
On a non load bearing wall, I would use two flat 2x4s, or make a 2x4 header w 1/2" plywood in between so that you have a nailer for the edge of door casing.
Yes that’s how my dad does it. It works either way but for a nailer that makes sense. Thanks!
Someone told me to use 2x6s for headers for interior doors to eliminate shake I'm the wall when you close doors or if doors get slammed. Is that ok? Why would I do that over 2x4s? Is it really worth the extra for the 2x6s?
@@TheExcellentLaborer question on the non load bearing wall, for the door do your door hang on the 2x4 like that? Or
Do u buck frame it with a one by?
We need more of this in America. I wish I could learn from you.
Great job Bro you explained things so well Thanks
Brilliant...thanks for such an excellent how to... 👍👍👍
Thank you Warren!
Brilliant frammer...
T wall save wood material...
And top crippel save material...
Gbu sir. .
I like your chanel...
Many thanks sir...
You are welcome!
Thank you!
That sped up sound of the saw sounds like some angry bee's lol🤣 Great video and very informative!
Learning a lot. Now I'm ready to build! :)
I’m glad to here that! I build and work another full time job. It’s a struggle but you won’t regret it!
That moment when a real life building tutorial is easier then the video game building tutorial..
Nicely Done 👍🏽🔨📐
Thank you!
He explains the how, the why and what it’ll look like when it’s done ☑️ . Even a novice like myself can follow directions and learn.
thanks. what sort of air compressor you use with your gun?
Will you add more 2 x 4's to make double top plates on the load bearing walls? What about the non load bearing walls, just a single top plate, and is that top plate lower bearing height than the load bearing wall double top plates so they don't pick up load from a roof truss or second floor truss?
I have a very quick question... that last wall that you put up the non weight bearing wall... the door opening, do you cut that 2x4 off the bottom with a skilsaw? It gets removed right? People would trip on it, when do you cut that off?
Yes you cut that out. You just build it all in one section to keep the wall together. Good question though thanks
When you cut that out, do you do it after the wall is standing and what would be the best saw for that, thanks in advance. Big rookie here.
@@jeremysharp7079 Cut it out after the wall is set. Do not do it before because the wall not be as strong and stay square like it should. Good question though!
@@TheExcellentLaborer, thank you sir
@@jeremysharp7079 reciprocating saw/SAWSALL. Some guys use chain saws
What a great video, thanks buddy
thanks, this is a good one!
how do you know which size of a header to use for doors or windows.
Great video. You said to add 2 inches for the width when building the opening. How much do you add to the height of the door? Also, I’m adding a closet in my attic and the walls will connect to the rafters. Should I consider that a load bearing wall?
When laying out the wall with the 2 x 4 framing does it matter how the crown of the wood is? How far off is acceptable as far as the bow? Do you buy kiln dried?
I have no framing experience but lots of DIY experience and patience. I want to install double french doors on a new interior wall. Would you recommend using a pre-hung door vs trying to build my own door frame? Is that not worth the additional time and effort? Thanks!
Amazing framer..
Love this is chanel
I’m glad you are enjoying my channel!
How much weight would you say a nonbearing wall can support? For example, if a client wants some heavy cabinets to be hung from the wall. If everyong is mounted into the studs, how many pounds can a nonbearing wall support? (Per stud?)
Do you actually need jack studs for the non-load bearing?
I have a question for you. I want to build a wall in my bedroom to divide the office space. When building the doorway do you omit the footer in the doorway?😊
I’m putting up a wall that is not load bearing. My question is do I need a header if I make a doorway that has a 8ft span?
Just wondering why are you not using 2 boards for the header on the not load bearing wall? I was always told to use 2 boards
I used two 2x10's with 1/2 plywood between. The other wall was non load bearing so it didnt need any header at all.
@@TheExcellentLaborer I have worked with some framers that like 2 boards laid flat or stood on edge for future trim work and door hanging. Not saying it's right just think maybe that's why he was taught that.👍
Do you leave the bottom strut across the doorframe? Or do you cut it out after the framed wall is nailed down? Great walk through, definitely helped me understand what I was missing.
Hey Anthony! I cut it out after the wall is nailed to the floor. Thanks for watching!
A strut? Are you talking about the bottom plate?
@@TheExcellentLaborer sorry for the dumb question. How do you cut out the 2X4 across the door opening on the bottom plate?
Sawsall
When you start nailing them did you also check it if it’s square? And what’s size is the header ?
He already had it layed out in measurement so when you nail it everything is square. Header looks like a 2x10
You just have to rack it if needed, then level and brace it. Once the trusses,roof sheathing and siding plywood is installed then and only then you remove all your bracing from exterior walls and interior walls.
Good info thanks
@@juniormedina9282 Welcome No problem... that's how we do it building beach house's. 3 story sometimes.
If you are framing a partition wall non load bearing in a basement with unfinished sheetrock on the ceiling can I attach the Wall to the joist above through the sheetrock
It was a excellent review, my only question is about the 2in opening added to the width of the door. Is that in 90% cases? First time building walls and its fun.
Yes it’s a standard way to build a door opening that works for all interior doors. So if you want a 30 inch door opening you just make the rough opening 32 inch. Thanks for watching!
oh oh .... i got time to blast comments on some more vids! great job again look at those subscribers coming in .... don't forget us little people that were here in the beginning. Saturday April 10, 2021. 14k subs
Oh yes I like your ambition! Subs are accumulating at a steady rate. Roughly 50/ day.
Thanks for your help videos 🎉☝🏻💪🏻🇺🇸👊🏻✅👍🏻👏🏻
Have your knees got many nails in them? Mine would have! Great vids. Thanks
None to the knees yet! Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I used to be a contractor like you. Then i took a nail to the knee
@@JS-rv3et Sorry to hear that. That had to have been painful!
@@TheExcellentLaborer oh haha no no that didn't happen. I was referencing the guards of SKYRIM who say they were an adventurer like you till they took an arrow to the knee.
However i have rolled a quad bike over landing on my calf right under my knee that wasn't much fun either.
This is a helpful video. Thanks!
You are welcome!
@@TheExcellentLaborer: I know someone who is a city inspector. They came by and looked at my work, and said I did everything correctly -- I thank you for producing these helpful videos which were helpful to me in building framing for walls and windows, etc.
@@RandolfRichardson You are welcome! I’m glad you got your project through inspection. Those are always nerve-racking. I appreciate you watching as well. Stay tuned for more content!
@@TheExcellentLaborer: It wasn't a formal inspection, but a neighbour who is a professional city inspector who helped me out, so not nerve-racking in this case -- it's always great to get professional opinions though.
Do you happen to have any videos on installing deadlite windows properly? I have a big one with no flange, and the frame doesn't have any space for drilling into from the inside.
Can you do a shed dormer , layout prep etc on existing loft/cape.
Whether it’s on a house or a shed the idea is similar. I have a dormer video series ua-cam.com/video/N8XRKW3DdE8/v-deo.html
@@TheExcellentLaborer yeah I watched them. Good stuff...I just need idiot proof specifications. None on youtube for loft conversion/shed dormer type layout, it's all like time lapse polka dancing everything but...
Hello, i have mould coming up on corner of ceiling and side wall can you please suggest me how can i fix it.
You must first find out what is causing the moisture problem. After that is fixed you’re going to have to use bleach to kill the mold. Then paint over that area. And depending how bad it is you may have to replace the drywall.
@@TheExcellentLaborer to find out the problem I think I have to cut the ceiling to see inside and ceiling gets very soft during winter so I think I need to replace the drywall in that area, can you please suggest
@@avantvlogs6334 Yes or get in the attic before you do that to find the leak. Common problems or roof leaks, water pipe leaks, HVAC condensation, HVAC condensation pump leak, etc.
@@TheExcellentLaborer there is no hvac connection that side just a went out side , it's seem like a roof leak what do u suggest to fix the roof leak?
@@TheExcellentLaborer I checked in the attic there was just black arear ard that space but it wasn't bad ,cutting the ceiling would be a good idea?
Is there any particular reason that you use air nailer and sometimes you use battery powered nailer? Is it just for convenience?
Good video
Thanks Juan!
Whene the 2” were added to the door opening, how’d you get that number? I understood the 3” on either side, but there did you get 2” from? Reference 2:40
So if you have a 30 inch door for example, you would make the rough opening 32 inches. You had an inch on each side of the door slab measurement. Does that make sense?
@@TheExcellentLaborer, thank you for this video, and commenting under here..."one inch on each side" It's also about the top, or only the two lateral sides? Another question, the bottom plate it's of course not even with the floor. Would that be cut later? Thank you.
@@robbyvenetian Yes, add one inch you top too. Then cut bottom plate out after standing wall.
@@TheExcellentLaborer, Thank you very much for your answer.
@@robbyvenetian The door width given on the blueprints is the actual width of the door itself, not including the frame. The extra 2-inch width you add for the rough opening is for the jams and shim spaces. You have a 3/4 inch jam on each side, so that's 1 1/2 inches, then a 1/4 inch space on each side for shims make up the 2 extra inches.
when you do a interior door do you do 3 inches return or 4 inches i a half..?
The door jam on a standard 2 x 4 wall will require a 4 1/2 inch jam. It has to accommodate for the stud and the drywall on each side. Good question!
Great video! One question - would you add a smaller header if you knew you were going to hang a sliding barn door on a non-load bearing wall?
Yes. I would make sure there was enough support for the door.
@@TheExcellentLaborer Thanks for the quick reply!
@@TGWraith sure! You are welcome!
In my area, especially if you have two floors, building inspector requires a box header. 2x12 vertical triple with half-inch filler in between to take up the dead space and then a 2x6 laying down on the top and bottom of the 2x12s. Kinda overkill, don't ya think? Lol
If it's a 2x4 wall, then the top and bottom is, of course a flat 2x4, then double 2x12 verticals in the box header.
Another question,
Where are fire blocks used? Any on interior walls or on a garage wall? Non load bearing walls? Thankyou, great videos, I’m an electrician enclosing a car port, no nothing about framing
I don't think fire blocks are required in any wall 9 feet or shorter (lower), but it could be different in different areas, I'm not sure.
I am building a food truck. I removed the rolltop door and now I have to build a wall with a door frame in it. That’s 36 inches wide. Can you help me with that?
What is the typical distance from the end of the wall frame to the king stud of a door opening? Thanks
Do you really need the cripples that sit on top of the jacks (non-load bearing)? What purpose do they serve?
So the header has something to sit on and for RO SIZE
Maybe noob stupid question but...What is the distance between the 2x4s? It there a standard distance...as in the video can't notice. Thanks
Most 2 x 4 walls are 16 on center. Which is 14 1/2 inches between them. Hope that helps!
I think I can use this technique to build a built-in closet.
what adjustments do I need to make for a house that's already been built? The ceiling is angled and has tile flooring.
ua-cam.com/video/xvaxaByotck/v-deo.html
If its an interior partition wall ie inside non load bearing. Then i believe just simply measureing the length for the angle is all. You could cut and remove the tile where the bottom plate is or just put it over it. I'd assume you would put a trim piece on the bottom once you drywall it.
Thx bro
Hi how do you make your own door to put in the frame you made here
Yes door are ridiculously expensive
Why do you need cripples on top of 2x4 header for non-load bearing wall?
Because you need a place to nail or screw Drywall. Good question though. Thanks for watching.
Ohhh nice
@@JS-rv3et yes!
35” header.? What size door.. 2” bigger then opening right.
Whered you buy those pants. I like em.
I'm a carpenter in the chicago area. Noticed you dont have 2 top plates on your exterior walls. Here its code. Is it not wherever you are from?
I always double plate my walls!
Great video! Wear your damn safety glasses man. I hate em but they have savex my eyes more than once! They make them in nice designs both shaded and non that doesn't make you look like Bob Vila 2.0
Hey James! Yes I definitely should have had them on. It was a stupid mistake I made. Bob Vila 2.0 😂 . It's crazy to think that I have recently made videos wiring that very room I was framing. Check them out. Thanks for commenting!
man, i've gotta get a cool nail gun like that LOL
You sure do!
Why was one opening 26? I thought the standard for a door was 32?
26 inches for the closet. 32 is for the bedroom opening
You completely missed building the header.😥
Your corner to door RO distance is too small. Frame carpenters never think of the finish carpenter.
That accent screams South Jersey. You sound like my in-laws.
Maybe 🤔
could not watch it without getting motion sick
Sorry to hear that...
As a rookie, this didn’t do it for me.