Bob you have the heart of a true teacher and I appreciate the way you share your considerable experience so transparently. I love being able to read your text insertions twice without having to pause or rewind. Your videos are so valuable and I always send new beekeepers to your site. Thank You for sharing ...again.
Hello Bob, I'm a second-year backyard beekeeper in central New Hampshire. I have been watching your videos for maybe 4 years now and I really enjoy and learn so much from your presentations. Filmed footage with text segments is a great way to get solid information across, very easy to understand. I went from 1 swarm catch last August to 8 colonies with a gifted package, some splits, a couple swarms this year and another swarm moving into my last remaining swarm box across the street. What a wonderful experience! I now wish I started beekeeping at a younger age. Thank you for all the great videos, peace and long life , Brice
Been a bee keeper for years. Part of a large bee keeping community. Below is a list of all measures that are effective in stopping bees swarming: 1. use TNT and blow up the hive. Below is a reason why for the above: 1. Swarming is how bees breed. Stopping bees swarming by giving them more room is like buying a mansion for a human couple. They are still going to have children regardless. Below is evidence of the above 1. Every year we beeks get together and discuss among other things swarms. Either EVERYONE mentioned large amounts of swarming that season or EVERYONE mentioned low amounts of swarming and we all spoke of individual steps taken to reduce swarming or mentioned taking no steps. It mattered not. IF the conditions are right. Bees swarm. I personally started single brood boxes 5 years ago. Bees don't need two boxes for brood. All that happens in two brood boxes is a lot more honey stored in the boxes and the shape of the brood chamber elongates vertically rather than horizontally.
Thank you Bob: what a valuable source of knowledge you offer to us. You are easy to follow, clear and honest. Since I've lost my Mentor I felt disoriented for a while, then I've found you and Kamon Reynolds and I'm so grateful. Thank you
Bob I truly enjoy your videos. You have a very calm and uncomplicated way of teaching. You have a natural gift for it and I thank you for sharing your wealth of experience with us.
Aloha bob. Thank you for all your great videos sir. I’m a small bee keeper in hawaii and have maybe close to 100 hives. Our problem we have here is shipping equipment in. So we make a lot of our own boxes and supers etc. I’ve started making your style of nuc and really love the way they are coming out. Anyway you could do a video in making your brood and super boxes. Dimensions and how you do your handles. Mahalo ( thank you). Have a great day. Aloha
I'm glad to see this video, just wish it was posted a month ago. Added the first super above 2 deep brood boxes with an excluder. Came back 2 weeks later no activity above excluder. Next I moved 3 frames of brood above excluder. That got the bees to going through the excluder. Live n learn. Thanks again Bob for this video..
It was such a pleasure to meet you yesterday. You were very gracious in taking time out to meet with me. You have an awesome facility, and Jesse and Mollie were a great help. Maybe you can visit down our way sometime .
I have enjoyed watching your process to get sourwood. Perhaps a title like "chasing the sourwood flow" at some point. Please continue with these valuable videos! I look forward to them.
Another great video Bob. My bees all over the mimosa here in the foothills of NC. I'm sure the dearth is coming soon....but for now they are working hard!! Thanks!!
Thanks for the video! I once read or heard a source, can’t seem to find it now, that stated something to the effect that it was the alkalinity or acidity of the soil the played a big part in whether bees worked nectar source. That was the reason bees worked a source in one place and not another.
Great information about the second deep box for swarm control. Thanks for sharing. I'm going to have to order a pail of your sourwood honey to see what that's all about.
Thanks Bob for the videos ! I remember the old man who teach me in to bees ....” when bees they don’t have nothing to do -they will swarm “. You have to keep them busy ! I learn to take full suppers of honey which are not cap yet move them up and put a new empty supper direct above the brood chamber and bring them to panic -they don’t have honey resources for few days even if some smell the honey above ! If I know heavy flow come I add up even two empty suppers in top of the brood chambers ( especially for sun flower flow ) They got panic and they will work harder and not time to think of swarming .
One thing about EZ Loaders, they are self leveling and the slopes don’t effect the operation. They say that they self level up to 30 degrees. I live in CT and just bought one.
Great video. I don't know if my area could pull off the management that you can. Our flows are fast and short. They start basically the middle of May and are already over here. If I tried the single brood chamber I don't now if the brood would be out of the top box in time. I don't move my colonies anywhere to improve my chances. I'm waiting for the mimosa to start blooming. That tells me everything is done here and it's time to extract. I just looked at my colonies and they were bringing in clover, yet that's finishing up here too. The bees have stopped drawing comb. Keep the videos coming. I want to see the color of sour wood as it's supposed to be in the jar.
Been a bee keeper for years. Part of a large bee keeping community. Below is a list of all measures that are effective in stopping bees swarming: 1. use TNT and blow up the hive. Below is a reason why for the above: 1. Swarming is how bees breed. Stopping bees swarming by giving them more room is like buying a mansion for a human couple. They are still going to have children regardless. Below is evidence of the above 1. Every year we beeks get together and discuss among other things swarms. Either EVERYONE mentioned large amounts of swarming that season or EVERYONE mentioned low amounts of swarming and we all spoke of individual steps taken to reduce swarming or mentioned taking no steps. It mattered not. IF the conditions are right. Bees swarm. I personally started single brood boxes 5 years ago. Bees don't need two boxes for brood. All that happens in two brood boxes is a lot more honey stored in the boxes and the shape of the brood chamber elongates vertically rather than horizontally. Taking special measures to stop swarming means being especially upset when those measures fail and the hives swarm anyway.
I was one of the commenters that said I didn't see bees on memosa. I wonder if our blooms are different in central US. I'm in Oklahoma. You have a wealth of knowledge, I sure appreciate your videos. Take care.
I honestly don't know why we make Mimosa and others don't. We don't get it every year but it is spreading steadily and is showing up in our supers more and more. For some reason this was a good year for it.
@@bobbinnie9872 Soil has a big impact on why and if some plants make nectar. I rarely see bees on mimosa’s in the hill country but they will work them near the River and surrounding grounds with that similar soil.
I am a beekeeper here in NZ working for a commercial beekeeping company. Watched most of your videos, I just hope i can visit US in the future and personally visit your outfit.. 🐝
Kedves Bob ! Köszönöm a videókat szuper! Gratulálok ! Az lenne a kérdésem : hogy a méhek ki rajzását hogy oldod meg ebben a méh box bann? Köszönöm válaszod. Sok egészséget kívánok!
I have often thought about running the queen back down, but then if we don't get a privet bloom, we are stuck with 4 more weeks of no nectar until mid to late May. Just so much time for the queen to blow things up in the second deep, and too much time to have her crammed into one deep seems to be my dilemma. Several have suggested this method, and I even saw while using a cloake board for cell building that when I left it configured with that queen stuck in the bottom below the excluder, they did not build swarm cells. hmmm and there was still no nectar of any amount coming in, so it made me think this method could still be an option. I work just as hard flipping up boxes and monitoring/cutting cells and/or splitting off NUCs to control swarming to where this method isn't much more work at all. But then there's the storage of all those brood deeps over winter once extracted....we just have such a long build-up to the main flow from February until May, with the privet interrupting in April by needing to be pulled off and out of the way. I guess it's just intense work one way or the other. After seeing the cloake board though, I might be toying with a modified version of this for swarm control.
Ok...I've watched Ian stepler do it and I adapted. I run single deeps. When I harvest I'll remove queen excluder (QE) and put a broody super on top of the deep for winter. That's there for a reason read on. In early spring I put the QE back and seperate the brood. That super is now brooded up. It's ABOVE the QE now. The infant bees attract nurses and the upstairs (above the QE) is now populated and ready to fill more supers. It's a trick to get bees above an excluder. It works. Don't forget to put queen in the deep brood box. That's important
Bob I have been want to go to single brood on some of my hives to try it . This is the second season on the top brood boxes . Is that to many brood cycles to change it over to a honey super ??. This video was very helpful. Thank you .!!
Dear Bob thank you so much for your good work of presenting all of this to all of us. Please answer my question it really makes me doubt something. If we use escape board in a very hot sunny weather, will the comb in the honey supers melt(because there are no more bees to ventilate) or not? Again, thank you so much for your video's. You are an expert and a natural person at the same time.
I tried this on a Nuc I made in spring. Built it up towards tallow flow. Did just like you are showing. It really took off on honey. Harvested 3 slap full deeps from it yesterday. Thanks as always for the excellent content. How long do those pallets hold up?
Bob, thanks for sharing. I have only one question. So you make splits to sell nucs and avoid swarming, but what if i dont have enough equipment for making nuc, could i just add a second deep box on a strong colony in May-June and when the main flow has started put the queen in bottom box, add an excluder and brood box on top. Would it help to avoid swarming or it wouldn`t enough?
It would definitely help. You might like watching this video too. "Single Story Colonies for Honey Production". ua-cam.com/video/0EOBInjCt-Q/v-deo.html
Great info! I was wondering what percentage of the brood box is typically stored honey in say September? Have you ever inspected the bottom (brood box) in September? Please keep these videos coming!!
Seems like your comments in the video suggest your getting negative feed back from viewers. I hope if that is the case it dose not affect your desire to post them. My wife and I love your videos and appreciate the knowledge, love, and time you put into them. Thank you from Samuel’s KY!!
Your pallet for honey is quite amazing. Can you give some tips on how to develop that at some point? I know you have to be in tune with what’s producing and such. Also I wanted to thank you for the way you present information. You tell how you do it. You also share other options along with pros and cons of those options. This is good for people to develop into their own beekeepers and not just those who cut and paste what others do.
You’ve got the best videos out there! I have acres of hardwoods with sourwood mixed in. They’re in full bloom in Charlotte, NC. Why don’t I ever make additional honey from it? We get very little rain (
Your elevation is probably too low. In Northeast Georgia sourwoods don't produce much under 1300 ft. Our better yards begin at 1500 ft. and the best ones are all over 1700ft. Thank you.
I don’t know if this is helpful for you Bob, but I bought one of those solar powered handcarts. I modified it with an extra section to basically make it a walk behind forklift. Takes all the heavy lifting out and you can basically lift three or four boxes at a time to slip the bee escapes underneath. But like any other forklift, you Gotta be careful with how high you go with it so things like honey boxes don’t fall over. I’m going to put a safety brake on the back of mine to help with that issue.
Can you please add a pic….I cannot quite visualize the set up, but need something as at 83 everything is getting tooo heavy. Good suggestion….thank you.
@@bobbinnie9872 certainly, I can take some photos. I’m not exactly the most tech savvy kind of guy. Definitely not someone who does UA-cam videos. I think I would have to email it to you and let you choose if you want to share it on your site or not. Where do you prefer me to email it to?
Hello Bob. Thank you for the great videos. I noticed that you use 8 -frame spacers in your honey supers. When you install new foundation, do you still use the 8 frame spacers? Also, do you fined the bees make honey faster with the deeper cells from these frames? Thank you.
We don't install the 8 frame spacers until after the comb is drawn because the bees are more prone to build cross burr comb if the comb is not drawn. 9 frame spacers are more forgiving but there can still be issues depending on the type of foundation and flow conditions. I don't think the bees make honey any faster with deep cells provided there is other empty comb and cells for them to use..
Hi Bob. I am your new subscriber. Your videos are very interesting and important, especially for me, because I live in Georgia, which is the homeland of the Caucasian bee. In addition, we have almost the same climatic conditions as yours. Now the question is: I have 50 hives with bees. Wondering what the difference is between a single body system and a double body system? Which one do you prefer? I myself prefer a single body system, but I'm interested in your opinion. Best regards, Sergo Rukhadze.
We like both for different reasons that would require a very long answer. You might like watching "A Problem With Single Storey Colonies" ua-cam.com/video/UsxM4htq4Hw/v-deo.html
That's the strategy I used in JAMAICA BOB, TELL YOU A SECRET once I installed the Excluder, I normally gets back within Eight days to check for panic Queen Cells.
Love your vdo. On plastic foundation is there up or down when putting them in frames. These are black plastic dont have the serrated corners where you can cut of the corners. Ty for all you do.
Hey Mr. Bob how does the sourwood compare to tallow in taste , I know the color is darker on the tallow, never tried sourwood but we do love our tallow here in Louisiana.
What a treat to see full boxes of bees and honey. Looking good Lol! I love my lift as-well! Seeing boxes of bees and boxes of honey and I don’t see what your video title referred too, other than the grunt lifting heavy boxes lol
I'm new to beekeeping (this is my first year) and was going to freak out when you said Mountain Laurel honey was toxic - we have tons of Mountain Laurels - but after some research I found out that they're not your Mountain Laurels *whew* I'm in Texas, and apparently there two completely different plants called Mountain Laurel that are completely unrelated to each other. The ones you're talking about are in the eastern US only, and the ones we have here are only in the Texas hill country and down into Mexico. They're very pretty, with grape smelling purple blooms. It will be interesting to see what kind of honey my bees make next year :)
Good afternoon! Great video as always! I have a question about escape bord efficiency, if everything is in order no brood in a supers how free of bees supers are after 4 days for them to be on a escape?
We have both doubles and singles but this technique makes lots of honey and then leaves you with a smaller colony as the honey flow ends which in some cases is useful.
Bob do you have any issues with dead drones after installing the excluder between the first and second deep? Do you leave an exit for the drones above the excluder?
Both joints work OK but I prefer a finger joint. If we make boxes ourselves we make a rabbit joint because you can easily make it on a table saw. We don't have a machine for making finger joints easily.
What do you do about drones that might get trapped above the excluder when they emerge? Also, thank you for answering (@ 5:10 in the video) a long standing question I had about harvesting honey from comb previously in brood service. Man you are the best!!! Thanks for the effort you put into the videos..much appreciated.
Many of our colonies have the lid cracked a bit which allows them to escape and if not some rush out when we open the colony for inspection and of course there are instances when some die above the excluder, but not often.
I think that the amount of frames you go thru with selling nucs a few darker frames of comb are a non issue for you its a good way to tell which frames are older. Its very different for me to see honey crops from trees In Saskatchewan Our bees are so far behind yours here -about 3months behind . Our tree nectars which are small in volume are used as feed to stimulate our colonies when they are small in the spring .
Hi Bob, you mention in this video that putting supers with new foundation above brood chambers can be "problematic." Can you say more about what you have observed relative to problematic?
The workers take longer to draw comb if a queen excluder is in place. If you don't use an excluder - and you wind up with brood in the honey supers. I don't use excluders at all if I have undrawn foundation - - but after they draw comb, I'll go ahead and place an excluder (after making sure the queen is in the bottom boxes), then the brood can hatch out - and those cells can be filled with nectar. It's a time consuming extra step.
Watched a video on a Philippine beekeeper that didn’t have queen excluder’s on any hives. The extraction process was crazy they used a knife and went around the brood.
Hey Bob I wanted to start of by saying I really love your videos. And they’ve been proven really helpful for me. But I’ve been finding it quite hard to navigate all the information. I was wondering if you’ve ever made or if you’d ever consider doing a in-depth timeline of what you do and when like a tutorial. On how you keep your bees. Like how your hive setup is using double deeps. How you have your hives setup starting the season and moving through, a timeline showing this is what we check here and this is what we do if this presents itself etc. I don’t mean that your videos right now don’t explain this I just mean that it almost feels like I’m trying to solve a puzzle without the reference picture it’s very hard to know where to start or form a timeline of how you guys do your beekeeping. A video that would help someone understand your entire beekeeping process in one video. It would help me immensely. I’m just trying to do everything as optimal as possible. And that can be extremely overwhelming as a beginner. So sometimes it’s easier to find someone you feel you trust in terms of you think these people went through the trouble of learning so I can trust them almost blindly and be sure their methods work. I really think you can do that for me and many. Truly inspiring to me and I wish to keep my bees the same way you do. But it’s very hard for me to understand everything! I’d be really glad for any recommendation for videos to watch of yours. Something where everything is not as in-depth but more of a overview of the entire step by step process of a season.
Hi Ohleg. This is a good idea and I would love doing it. Perhaps this winter I can begin by working on a script. I've been told that the way I explain things is to cryptic.
@@bobbinnie9872 that would be awesome. Something that gives a good overview of your entire process. So that any new beekeeper can start and implement your methodology right away, a video that teaches people the essential things that you guys do through out the year. Right now I feel like each part is very spread out and it’s hard for me to organize through the different videos. I’ve understood that beekeeping is not a clear science but I think your methodologies are the ones I’d like to follow the most! Thanks for taking the time to read and hope you’re having a good weekend! Happy early midsummer from Sweden. Honestly this is also a great idea for a book. “Bob Binnie’s methodology of beekeeping” or something like that!
So confusing! Always something new. I've heard you say before that brood frames can be used for honey. I'm a little surprised you are extracting the deep for your honey harvest. I gather you are also using a medium for the second brood chamber? Are you doing that in NC or just GA?
Hi Richard. We avoid mediums for a brood chamber. Just a personal choice. In this video we are using the second deep for a second brood chamber for a short time and then changing it to a honey super after the swarming problem has lessened. We did it in Georgia and in Otto, NC.
Bob, you have just 8 frames in your medium supers? Do you switch to 8 frames during flow, to your supers? If so, why not give them 9 frames instead of 8 ?
All of our extracting supers with drawn comb (except for just a few) have eight frame spacers in them. They start as ten frame and when drawn out are changed to eight.
Just came across the video.About 2 months ago while mowing my front yard I noticed I had honeybees that had take up residence in my water meter box.Iv called Broward bee keepers association and several other bee rescue groups and they all told me it would be best to kill them.Iv never been stung when mowing and I even gently get several to get in the palm of my hands.I guess that if all the different places I called and told me to kill them which I don't understand why since we need the honeybees.Iv been thinking about just building them a box and hopefully they will move into the box so I can relocate them to a corner in my backyard.I grew up on a far and we always had honeybees to help produce crops.Its sad that so many people have no understanding how important the honeybees are.If anyone has any advice it would be greatly appreciated.
If you're speaking of Broward County, FL. there's a chance for Africanized genes in some swarms which may be why it was recommended to kill them. Our standard European bees will rarely nest in a cavity at ground level or below whereas bees with at least some African genes are notorious for it.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks for the info I may let them be no punn intented.Unless they become a a problem by attacking myself or others.At them moment they stay pretty calm when I go near them.
Bob you have the heart of a true teacher and I appreciate the way you share your considerable experience so transparently. I love being able to read your text insertions twice without having to pause or rewind. Your videos are so valuable and I always send new beekeepers to your site. Thank You for sharing ...again.
Bob, you mentioned a quality smoker.Please repeat
Thank you.
We prefer Dadant smokers.
True ❤ thanks bob
Woah...This guy is the most helpful guy on all of the internet! Learned more in these 12:29 than hours of other channels.
Bob talking about bees is a pleasure to watch.
Now I know what to aim for. Sir, you're a role model.
Hello Bob, I'm a second-year backyard beekeeper in central New Hampshire. I have been watching your videos for maybe 4 years now and I really enjoy and learn so much from your presentations. Filmed footage with text segments is a great way to get solid information across, very easy to understand. I went from 1 swarm catch last August to 8 colonies with a gifted package, some splits, a couple swarms this year and another swarm moving into my last remaining swarm box across the street. What a wonderful experience! I now wish I started beekeeping at a younger age. Thank you for all the great videos, peace and long life , Brice
Been a bee keeper for years. Part of a large bee keeping community. Below is a list of all measures that are effective in stopping bees swarming:
1. use TNT and blow up the hive.
Below is a reason why for the above:
1. Swarming is how bees breed. Stopping bees swarming by giving them more room is like buying a mansion for a human couple. They are still going to have children regardless.
Below is evidence of the above
1. Every year we beeks get together and discuss among other things swarms. Either EVERYONE mentioned large amounts of swarming that season or EVERYONE mentioned low amounts of swarming and we all spoke of individual steps taken to reduce swarming or mentioned taking no steps. It mattered not.
IF the conditions are right. Bees swarm.
I personally started single brood boxes 5 years ago. Bees don't need two boxes for brood. All that happens in two brood boxes is a lot more honey stored in the boxes and the shape of the brood chamber elongates vertically rather than horizontally.
Thank you Bob: what a valuable source of knowledge you offer to us. You are easy to follow, clear and honest. Since I've lost my Mentor I felt disoriented for a while, then I've found you and Kamon Reynolds and I'm so grateful. Thank you
Bob I truly enjoy your videos. You have a very calm and uncomplicated way of teaching. You have a natural gift for it and I thank you for sharing your wealth of experience with us.
You're so spot on about this Bob. Thank you for the reminder and tips. Great advise.
You are blessed over there with so much floral diversity you are having honey yields that we could only dream about here in N.Ireland. Great to watch.
Hey! I grew up in Hollywood, GA ! Very informative video! Thanks Bob!
Aloha bob. Thank you for all your great videos sir. I’m a small bee keeper in hawaii and have maybe close to 100 hives. Our problem we have here is shipping equipment in. So we make a lot of our own boxes and supers etc. I’ve started making your style of nuc and really love the way they are coming out. Anyway you could do a video in making your brood and super boxes. Dimensions and how you do your handles. Mahalo ( thank you). Have a great day. Aloha
I'm glad to see this video, just wish it was posted a month ago. Added the first super above 2 deep brood boxes with an excluder. Came back 2 weeks later no activity above excluder. Next I moved 3 frames of brood above excluder. That got the bees to going through the excluder. Live n learn.
Thanks again Bob for this video..
It was such a pleasure to meet you yesterday. You were very gracious in taking time out to meet with me. You have an awesome facility, and Jesse and Mollie were a great help. Maybe you can visit down our way sometime .
I enjoyed meeting you also. I hope the queens do well for you.
I have enjoyed watching your process to get sourwood. Perhaps a title like "chasing the sourwood flow" at some point. Please continue with these valuable videos! I look forward to them.
Thank you for the serious knowledge transfusion... seriously, lots of golden nuggets in that video, thank you!
Great videos! You're a natural teacher. Best part is your field sampling of the honey. Ha!!
Another excellent video…..full of valuable knowledge. Thanks for posting 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👍👍👍
I’m a Bob B fan 😁
Kind regards from a Chilean beekeeper.
Another great video Bob. My bees all over the mimosa here in the foothills of NC. I'm sure the dearth is coming soon....but for now they are working hard!!
Thanks!!
Thanks for the video! I once read or heard a source, can’t seem to find it now, that stated something to the effect that it was the alkalinity or acidity of the soil the played a big part in whether bees worked nectar source. That was the reason bees worked a source in one place and not another.
I know that's true with clover. Perhaps with this too.
What is it for clover… acid or basic ph…. That bees like?
Good information on using excluders and supers. Thanks for all the information. Take care.
Great information about the second deep box for swarm control. Thanks for sharing. I'm going to have to order a pail of your sourwood honey to see what that's all about.
Thank You for taking time to share Your knowledge. It is appreciated.
Thanks Bob for the videos ! I remember the old man who teach me in to bees ....” when bees they don’t have nothing to do -they will swarm “. You have to keep them busy ! I learn to take full suppers of honey which are not cap yet move them up and put a new empty supper direct above the brood chamber and bring them to panic -they don’t have honey resources for few days even if some smell the honey above ! If I know heavy flow come I add up even two empty suppers in top of the brood chambers ( especially for sun flower flow ) They got panic and they will work harder and not time to think of swarming .
One thing about EZ Loaders, they are self leveling and the slopes don’t effect the operation. They say that they self level up to 30 degrees. I live in CT and just bought one.
Great video. I don't know if my area could pull off the management that you can. Our flows are fast and short. They start basically the middle of May and are already over here. If I tried the single brood chamber I don't now if the brood would be out of the top box in time. I don't move my colonies anywhere to improve my chances.
I'm waiting for the mimosa to start blooming. That tells me everything is done here and it's time to extract.
I just looked at my colonies and they were bringing in clover, yet that's finishing up here too. The bees have stopped drawing comb.
Keep the videos coming. I want to see the color of sour wood as it's supposed to be in the jar.
Where is here?
Is Mimosa a reliable source for you?
@@bobbinnie9872 No, not here. Nice looking flowers.
I wish you could do a voiceover of the reading so I could listen and work at the same time. Great information!
Always thanks for sharing your expertise with us all Bob
Been a bee keeper for years. Part of a large bee keeping community. Below is a list of all measures that are effective in stopping bees swarming:
1. use TNT and blow up the hive.
Below is a reason why for the above:
1. Swarming is how bees breed. Stopping bees swarming by giving them more room is like buying a mansion for a human couple. They are still going to have children regardless.
Below is evidence of the above
1. Every year we beeks get together and discuss among other things swarms. Either EVERYONE mentioned large amounts of swarming that season or EVERYONE mentioned low amounts of swarming and we all spoke of individual steps taken to reduce swarming or mentioned taking no steps. It mattered not.
IF the conditions are right. Bees swarm.
I personally started single brood boxes 5 years ago. Bees don't need two boxes for brood. All that happens in two brood boxes is a lot more honey stored in the boxes and the shape of the brood chamber elongates vertically rather than horizontally.
Taking special measures to stop swarming means being especially upset when those measures fail and the hives swarm anyway.
Another awesome video 🙌🏼 Thank you for sharing all your years of knowledge with us 🙂
Awesome video Bob! Thanks for sharing this.
Dear Mr. Bob,
Thank you very much for your videos and great experience. Kind regards, Dmitrii, Russia
You are very welcome
I was one of the commenters that said I didn't see bees on memosa. I wonder if our blooms are different in central US. I'm in Oklahoma. You have a wealth of knowledge, I sure appreciate your videos. Take care.
I honestly don't know why we make Mimosa and others don't. We don't get it every year but it is spreading steadily and is showing up in our supers more and more. For some reason this was a good year for it.
@@bobbinnie9872 Soil has a big impact on why and if some plants make nectar.
I rarely see bees on mimosa’s in the hill country but they will work them near the River and surrounding grounds with that similar soil.
I am a beekeeper here in NZ working for a commercial beekeeping company. Watched most of your videos, I just hope i can visit US in the future and personally visit your outfit.. 🐝
Kedves Bob ! Köszönöm a videókat szuper! Gratulálok ! Az lenne a kérdésem : hogy a méhek ki rajzását hogy oldod meg ebben a méh box bann? Köszönöm válaszod. Sok egészséget kívánok!
I have often thought about running the queen back down, but then if we don't get a privet bloom, we are stuck with 4 more weeks of no nectar until mid to late May. Just so much time for the queen to blow things up in the second deep, and too much time to have her crammed into one deep seems to be my dilemma. Several have suggested this method, and I even saw while using a cloake board for cell building that when I left it configured with that queen stuck in the bottom below the excluder, they did not build swarm cells. hmmm and there was still no nectar of any amount coming in, so it made me think this method could still be an option. I work just as hard flipping up boxes and monitoring/cutting cells and/or splitting off NUCs to control swarming to where this method isn't much more work at all. But then there's the storage of all those brood deeps over winter once extracted....we just have such a long build-up to the main flow from February until May, with the privet interrupting in April by needing to be pulled off and out of the way. I guess it's just intense work one way or the other. After seeing the cloake board though, I might be toying with a modified version of this for swarm control.
Ok...I've watched Ian stepler do it and I adapted. I run single deeps. When I harvest I'll remove queen excluder (QE) and put a broody super on top of the deep for winter. That's there for a reason read on. In early spring I put the QE back and seperate the brood. That super is now brooded up. It's ABOVE the QE now.
The infant bees attract nurses and the upstairs (above the QE) is now populated and ready to fill more supers.
It's a trick to get bees above an excluder. It works. Don't forget to put queen in the deep brood box. That's important
just love beetalk on youtube these days. Bob talks to Ian ;). This is as good it gets, you toube maked my bee dreams mutch better. /Swedish Bub
Bob I have been want to go to single brood on some of my hives to try it . This is the second season on the top brood boxes . Is that to many brood cycles to change it over to a honey super ??. This video was very helpful. Thank you .!!
Hi Kathy. I would say it's OK but of course you will need to guard them from wax moths in the off season.
Hope you guys have a TREMENDOUS Sourwood flow in all the yards! The Blue Ridge All-Stars...One heckuva crew!
Hi Greg. We sure hope so. You know what help financially that would be.👍
Dear Bob thank you so much for your good work of presenting all of this to all of us.
Please answer my question it really makes me doubt something.
If we use escape board in a very hot sunny weather, will the comb in the honey supers melt(because there are no more bees to ventilate) or not?
Again, thank you so much for your video's.
You are an expert and a natural person at the same time.
I have not had a problem with melting but doesn't normally get over 95°f here.
I tried this on a Nuc I made in spring. Built it up towards tallow flow. Did just like you are showing. It really took off on honey. Harvested 3 slap full deeps from it yesterday. Thanks as always for the excellent content.
How long do those pallets hold up?
Ten years or so.
Sourwood is starting to come in up here in S.E. Ohio hope it's a good year
Bob, thanks for sharing. I have only one question. So you make splits to sell nucs and avoid swarming, but what if i dont have enough equipment for making nuc, could i just add a second deep box on a strong colony in May-June and when the main flow has started put the queen in bottom box, add an excluder and brood box on top. Would it help to avoid swarming or it wouldn`t enough?
It would definitely help. You might like watching this video too. "Single Story Colonies for Honey Production". ua-cam.com/video/0EOBInjCt-Q/v-deo.html
Still very impressed after 2 years, Bob Binnie REAL beekeeper
Great info! I was wondering what percentage of the brood box is typically stored honey in say September? Have you ever inspected the bottom (brood box) in September? Please keep these videos coming!!
Every season is different. It can be half full or empty. Ether way we will feed enough to make it mostly full before winter.
Seems like your comments in the video suggest your getting negative feed back from viewers. I hope if that is the case it dose not affect your desire to post them. My wife and I love your videos and appreciate the knowledge, love, and time you put into them. Thank you from Samuel’s KY!!
Thank you.
well done colleague, I subscribe to your channel. Good luck with your business.
Your pallet for honey is quite amazing. Can you give some tips on how to develop that at some point? I know you have to be in tune with what’s producing and such. Also I wanted to thank you for the way you present information. You tell how you do it. You also share other options along with pros and cons of those options. This is good for people to develop into their own beekeepers and not just those who cut and paste what others do.
You’ve got the best videos out there!
I have acres of hardwoods with sourwood mixed in. They’re in full bloom in Charlotte, NC.
Why don’t I ever make additional honey from it? We get very little rain (
Your elevation is probably too low. In Northeast Georgia sourwoods don't produce much under 1300 ft. Our better yards begin at 1500 ft. and the best ones are all over 1700ft. Thank you.
@@bobbinnie9872 That’s interesting!
Why would elevation affect how much nectar a tree produced?
I don’t know if this is helpful for you Bob, but I bought one of those solar powered handcarts. I modified it with an extra section to basically make it a walk behind forklift. Takes all the heavy lifting out and you can basically lift three or four boxes at a time to slip the bee escapes underneath. But like any other forklift, you Gotta be careful with how high you go with it so things like honey boxes don’t fall over. I’m going to put a safety brake on the back of mine to help with that issue.
Can you please add a pic….I cannot quite visualize the set up, but need something as at 83 everything is getting tooo heavy. Good suggestion….thank you.
You need to do a video on that.
@@bobbinnie9872 certainly, I can take some photos. I’m not exactly the most tech savvy kind of guy. Definitely not someone who does UA-cam videos. I think I would have to email it to you and let you choose if you want to share it on your site or not. Where do you prefer me to email it to?
Another great video thank you Bob.
Hello Bob. Thank you for the great videos. I noticed that you use 8 -frame spacers in your honey supers. When you install new foundation, do you still use the 8 frame spacers? Also, do you fined the bees make honey faster with the deeper cells from these frames? Thank you.
We don't install the 8 frame spacers until after the comb is drawn because the bees are more prone to build cross burr comb if the comb is not drawn. 9 frame spacers are more forgiving but there can still be issues depending on the type of foundation and flow conditions. I don't think the bees make honey any faster with deep cells provided there is other empty comb and cells for them to use..
I always ask myself, why you don't have only mediums? Great season, happy beekeeping!
Always enjoy watching Bob. Thanks for sharing
We all wish we had Ian's lift. Just me here around 150 hives. And I run double deeps. I convey my neighbor's equipment for sure.🤫
There is a Hollywood Kentucky too.
Hi Bob. I am your new subscriber. Your videos are very interesting and important, especially for me, because I live in Georgia, which is the homeland of the Caucasian bee. In addition, we have almost the same climatic conditions as yours.
Now the question is: I have 50 hives with bees. Wondering what the difference is between a single body system and a double body system? Which one do you prefer? I myself prefer a single body system, but I'm interested in your opinion.
Best regards, Sergo Rukhadze.
We like both for different reasons that would require a very long answer. You might like watching "A Problem With Single Storey Colonies" ua-cam.com/video/UsxM4htq4Hw/v-deo.html
That's the strategy I used in JAMAICA BOB,
TELL YOU A SECRET once I installed the Excluder, I normally gets back within Eight days to check for panic Queen Cells.
Mister Bob we have bees in upstate sc and they work on mimosa flowers
Love your vdo. On plastic foundation is there up or down when putting them in frames. These are black plastic dont have the serrated corners where you can cut of the corners. Ty for all you do.
Hi Peter. There isn't a top or bottom unless paying attention to the serrated corners.
@@bobbinnie9872 ty so much for reply
Have a good day,,🌻🇬🇪
Hey Mr. Bob how does the sourwood compare to tallow in taste , I know the color is darker on the tallow, never tried sourwood but we do love our tallow here in Louisiana.
Tallow and Sourwood are much different. I'd explain but I find it hard to describe the taste of honey.
What a treat to see full boxes of bees and honey. Looking good
Lol! I love my lift as-well!
Seeing boxes of bees and boxes of honey and I don’t see what your video title referred too, other than the grunt lifting heavy boxes lol
Some bee keepers are big time like Bob, and then there's Ian level! 😆
You're grunts are coming soon. Oh wait, you have a lift to do that. 😀👍
Ah, ha ha I see what you did with that title! Lol I’m a slow learner :)
I'm new to beekeeping (this is my first year) and was going to freak out when you said Mountain Laurel honey was toxic - we have tons of Mountain Laurels - but after some research I found out that they're not your Mountain Laurels *whew* I'm in Texas, and apparently there two completely different plants called Mountain Laurel that are completely unrelated to each other. The ones you're talking about are in the eastern US only, and the ones we have here are only in the Texas hill country and down into Mexico. They're very pretty, with grape smelling purple blooms. It will be interesting to see what kind of honey my bees make next year :)
What do you do with the honey of Mountain Laurel? Do you just sell any of the honey from those hives?
No, we let the bees have it.
Thanks for sharing valuable content Bob 👍🇺🇲
👍 Thanks Jeff
Good afternoon! Great video as always! I have a question about escape bord efficiency, if everything is in order no brood in a supers how free of bees supers are after 4 days for them to be on a escape?
95%
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank You very much!! And what is a bulk price for bords? Forgive me for being a little annoying 😊
@@sergeytaranovich2368 Hi Sergey. For current prices please call our store and ask for Molly. 706 782 6722.
Can you effectively do single deep management in 8 frame equipment?
Yes but it takes more management.
Thank you.
I keep hearing don’t use foundation but, drawn comb. As a beginner starting we don’t have that option . Recommendations?
G'day bob those ezyloader will work up to about 12 deg. The hydraulic cylinders adjust automatically 🇦🇺
سيد بوب أسعد الله أوقاتك بكل خير, أيها أفضل لأستقبال العسل أن يكون فوق حاجز الملكات صندوق لانجستروث أو صندوقين نص لانجستروث
So when you sell honey at the store do you do a pollen check in it to be sure what kind of honey it is ? Or is it easy to tellnapart by taste?
We don't do a pollen check but we can tell in many cases by taste.
That would make a good video
Did the Mimosa honey taste good? I am thinking of planting a bunch of it!
It's strong but I like it. When compared to all the honey out there I would put it in the middle for flavor.
@@bobbinnie9872 I am going to plant a bunch of it along my south fence line. Thank for sharing.
PS If I get a frame of Sourwood I may bring you a sample to see if you agree it is Sourwood!
Where is your country with many beautiful farms?
Northeast Georgia.
so would are you not better off keeping the queen in 2 brood boxes to keep the number of bees high all throughout the season ?
We have both doubles and singles but this technique makes lots of honey and then leaves you with a smaller colony as the honey flow ends which in some cases is useful.
Bob do you have any issues with dead drones after installing the excluder between the first and second deep? Do you leave an exit for the drones above the excluder?
It can definitely happen. If we see any drone brood above we will crack the lid or upper box to allow another entrance for the drones to escape.
I see different corner joints in your chambers, please tell me why and which is better
Both joints work OK but I prefer a finger joint. If we make boxes ourselves we make a rabbit joint because you can easily make it on a table saw. We don't have a machine for making finger joints easily.
How do you know that the bees made mountain laurel honey?
From experience we've become very familiar with it. See our video "Our Colonies Are Producing Toxic Honey!!?". ua-cam.com/video/l2k9EOJPyU0/v-deo.html
What do you do about drones that might get trapped above the excluder when they emerge? Also, thank you for answering (@ 5:10 in the video) a long standing question I had about harvesting honey from comb previously in brood service. Man you are the best!!! Thanks for the effort you put into the videos..much appreciated.
Many of our colonies have the lid cracked a bit which allows them to escape and if not some rush out when we open the colony for inspection and of course there are instances when some die above the excluder, but not often.
Bob, could you instead of adding another deep could you take out some brood frames and replace with drawn comb so the queen has more empty cells?
Yes, that would absolutely work.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks Bob!
I think that the amount of frames you go thru with selling nucs a few darker frames of comb are a non issue for you its a good way to tell which frames are older.
Its very different for me to see honey crops from trees
In Saskatchewan Our bees are so far behind yours here -about 3months behind .
Our tree nectars which are small in volume are used as feed to stimulate our colonies when they are small in the spring .
Could the other flavor be milkweed? My bees are all over various milkweed species right now along with the sourwood bloom.
I don't believe so because I don't see any. I was in these same colonies today adding another super and they are bringing in primarily Sourwood now.
Curious how you sore your comb after extracting ? Thank you
Check out our video "Honey Super Storage" ua-cam.com/video/Hzetpva-oH0/v-deo.html
Hi Bob, you mention in this video that putting supers with new foundation above brood chambers can be "problematic." Can you say more about what you have observed relative to problematic?
The workers take longer to draw comb if a queen excluder is in place. If you don't use an excluder - and you wind up with brood in the honey supers. I don't use excluders at all if I have undrawn foundation - - but after they draw comb, I'll go ahead and place an excluder (after making sure the queen is in the bottom boxes), then the brood can hatch out - and those cells can be filled with nectar. It's a time consuming extra step.
Watched a video on a Philippine beekeeper that didn’t have queen excluder’s on any hives. The extraction process was crazy they used a knife and went around the brood.
I guess they do what they have to.
Convert a lawnmower lift so they you can jack up a stack of supers and put on your escape and a empty super?
Ah, I got to try that Sourwood honey one day !
Bob what you do when you find too many colonies with cells to swarm? how do you manage those colonies?
We always try to split them if we have time, at least with a double screen board.
bees reluctance to go into supers : you were just too late! you must super earlier! + you need good queen genetics for this
I’m new to beekeeping, how do you know it’s sourwood just by looking at the frame?
That's difficult to do although you could assume it is if that is what is blooming heavily and the time is right. Taste is the safest way.
Hey Bob I wanted to start of by saying I really love your videos. And they’ve been proven really helpful for me. But I’ve been finding it quite hard to navigate all the information. I was wondering if you’ve ever made or if you’d ever consider doing a in-depth timeline of what you do and when like a tutorial. On how you keep your bees. Like how your hive setup is using double deeps. How you have your hives setup starting the season and moving through, a timeline showing this is what we check here and this is what we do if this presents itself etc. I don’t mean that your videos right now don’t explain this I just mean that it almost feels like I’m trying to solve a puzzle without the reference picture it’s very hard to know where to start or form a timeline of how you guys do your beekeeping.
A video that would help someone understand your entire beekeeping process in one video. It would help me immensely. I’m just trying to do everything as optimal as possible. And that can be extremely overwhelming as a beginner. So sometimes it’s easier to find someone you feel you trust in terms of you think these people went through the trouble of learning so I can trust them almost blindly and be sure their methods work. I really think you can do that for me and many. Truly inspiring to me and I wish to keep my bees the same way you do. But it’s very hard for me to understand everything! I’d be really glad for any recommendation for videos to watch of yours. Something where everything is not as in-depth but more of a overview of the entire step by step process of a season.
Hi Ohleg. This is a good idea and I would love doing it. Perhaps this winter I can begin by working on a script. I've been told that the way I explain things is to cryptic.
@@bobbinnie9872 that would be awesome. Something that gives a good overview of your entire process. So that any new beekeeper can start and implement your methodology right away, a video that teaches people the essential things that you guys do through out the year. Right now I feel like each part is very spread out and it’s hard for me to organize through the different videos. I’ve understood that beekeeping is not a clear science but I think your methodologies are the ones I’d like to follow the most! Thanks for taking the time to read and hope you’re having a good weekend! Happy early midsummer from Sweden. Honestly this is also a great idea for a book. “Bob Binnie’s methodology of beekeeping” or something like that!
Bob I love your videos. Quit doing so much real work and make us more videos. I'm kidding. Sort of. 😉
👍😀
Sir in India, apis cerana has mite resistance, we don't have mite problem. But wax moths area big problem. How can we prevent our hive from wax moth?
Here, with European bees, good strong colonies keep them under control. In India I don't know what would work the best.
I noticed that some of the boxes are just eight frames and the top bars seem wide. Is it 8 bigger frames in a 10 frame box or am I missing something?
They are normal frames in a box that has eight frame swpacers.
Can you sell the mountain laurel honey to somebody? Who’s fermenting it in the alcohol?
I don't know for sure but I don't think so.
So confusing! Always something new. I've heard you say before that brood frames can be used for honey. I'm a little surprised you are extracting the deep for your honey harvest. I gather you are also using a medium for the second brood chamber? Are you doing that in NC or just GA?
Hi Richard. We avoid mediums for a brood chamber. Just a personal choice. In this video we are using the second deep for a second brood chamber for a short time and then changing it to a honey super after the swarming problem has lessened. We did it in Georgia and in Otto, NC.
9:25 lets take a second to appreciate, how well this frame got shook off, by Bob
Oh no.... Brood in the supers:) My wife is from NE thailand and they love to eat brood mixed with honey. It is a delicacy with their culture.
Yum!
Bob, you have just 8 frames in your medium supers? Do you switch to 8 frames during flow, to your supers? If so, why not give them 9 frames instead of 8 ?
All of our extracting supers with drawn comb (except for just a few) have eight frame spacers in them. They start as ten frame and when drawn out are changed to eight.
Just came across the video.About 2 months ago while mowing my front yard I noticed I had honeybees that had take up residence in my water meter box.Iv called Broward bee keepers association and several other bee rescue groups and they all told me it would be best to kill them.Iv never been stung when mowing and I even gently get several to get in the palm of my hands.I guess that if all the different places I called and told me to kill them which I don't understand why since we need the honeybees.Iv been thinking about just building them a box and hopefully they will move into the box so I can relocate them to a corner in my backyard.I grew up on a far and we always had honeybees to help produce crops.Its sad that so many people have no understanding how important the honeybees are.If anyone has any advice it would be greatly appreciated.
If you're speaking of Broward County, FL. there's a chance for Africanized genes in some swarms which may be why it was recommended to kill them. Our standard European bees will rarely nest in a cavity at ground level or below whereas bees with at least some African genes are notorious for it.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks for the info I may let them be no punn intented.Unless they become a a problem by attacking myself or others.At them moment they stay pretty calm when I go near them.