I just picked one up from Bass Pro Shops. I bought a cheap little trolling motor, because the Remote Control Power Drive's are on backorder for about 4 months. I would much rather have my Remote controlled setup on it, but I can get by on this cheap Minnkota, until I can get it...
I’ll make a vid about the swivel seat for you tmw. There’s a trolling motor on Amazon that’s pretty good and reliable. Offers bow mount with remote fob controller and Gps. I think the name is haswing but it’s an affordable option and available.
Awesome! It a really good kayak at its price point. That’s my take. I can do anything from this platform and it’s STABLE no matter the user. I’m working on an optional 3.5hp outboard set up that I can easily swap out when needed. Looking forward to seeing your vid and checking out what you come up with for your setup!!
Thick Black Plastic Cutting Board 24x18 Extra Large for Restaurants, NSF Certified www.amazon.com/dp/B07DKY62RV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_2XM7JCTNG8DDSAY5Q5Q1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What length shaft is on your trolling motor? Do you think a Newport Vessels 55lb. Kayak series 24" shaft (the grey one) would be long enough? My kayak is the Ascend 128X, essentially the same kayak only a little smaller. The stern looks exactly the same. I plan on a pwm setup like yours.
Yes. That shaft should be long enough bc of the hull design. I actually cut my shaft down bc the design allows for a short shaft. If you go with a PWM, I’d suggest a quick disconnect set up for your cable that leave the box for your motor and your battery. PWM’s fail at times and it would suck to be stuck out there (been there done that). So either build two PWM boxes that the quick disconnect will allow you to switch out on the water OR make a secondary box using the stock control module inside the trolling motor head unit. Those rarely ever fail completely. That gives you a solid fail proof back up when you need to get home. I carry one in my dry bag with tools
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing Yes, I plan on using 10 gauge SAE connectors for the PWM (input and output), with opposite connectors for where power comes in from the battery and where power goes out to the trolling motor. That way in an emergency situation I can connect them together basically shorting the battery direct to the motor. It will be abrupt full power but, will get me back to shore at least. I can't take credit for the idea though, Tahoe Yakfisher here on UA-cam has a video on it and I liked the idea so, I'm going to try it. I also plan to make the motor mount out of 3/8" plate aluminum and HDPE with an aluminum plate backer inside the hull. Maybe overkill but, the mounting inserts it comes with don't seem that amazing to me, I've seen inserts come out or strip and spin. Thanks for the info though and for answering my question about the motor shaft length. What happened to your swivel seat video..I can't find it on your channel. You should also do an update video on your kayak explaining anything that's changed and highlighting what worked out well. Thanks.
@@chriscampbell1456 you’re right. I probably should do an update vid. Bc I’ve gone through some variations to that original video. As for the swivel seat video…. I didn’t notice it was no longer up… hmmm… I’ll have to look to repost. Good luck with the setup, sounds like you have a solid plan for a backup in the event it fails. Tahoe Yakfisher also has a video that shows how he manages the heat in his PWM box. I actually added that to my second build of a box and it works beautifully. I’m working on an engine mount bracket for a 3.5 hp mercury. I’m going gas on the stern and electric on the bow
Great setup! I love the simplicity. You kept it a kayak. Great idea with the drawer, solved my dilemma. I was thinking of removing the power head on my trolling motor, extending the wires, and mounting it, intact somewhere near the seat. Any ideas? I think I saw it on another video, but can't find it now.
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing The motor head is no problem, I think, since I don't need any USB or other electronic hook-ups. I just need to figure out how to mount it. My kayak will be on a trailer (from a 17' boat) so the motor can stay on it, or use a quick disconnect. Do you use a trailer? I'm having trouble figuring out how to support the bottom on my trailer that has two bunkers. I don't like the flex I get on the bottom between the two keels. I'm thinking of a flat board (like one bunker) and letting it sit flat like it was on the floor. That's my project for the weekend.
@@victorgatelljr.5753 trailer: I have a jet ski trailer and the bunks were causing the same issue and it did concern me some. I added additional bunks to sit flat under the deepest part of the hull and used the original ones as guide on bunks like your see on trailers built for catamaran hulls or pontoon boats. That worked great for ease of load and unloading as well as preventing that flex from not spreading out the weight bearing. Motor head for the trolling motor. Buy some additional tracks like the ones that come stock on the yak. Either mount then in the rod holder channel left and right of the seat or on top the outside gunnel next to the seat. Order the track screws from Amazon that allow you to attach equipment to the tracks. After shortening the shaft on your trolling motor, the piece you cut off… you need to make a base for it to be attached to the track with the track bolt. Here’s how: 1. Buy some JD/JB Weld(I can’t remember the name exact) quick setting. 2. Find a pvc cap that will fit the shaft from the trolling motor. 3. Drill a hole in the cap to pass the screw thru. with the bolt head inside the cap and threaded end sticking out. You can add a nut to the threaded end outside the cap but I don’t think it’s necessary but if so, preferably a locking nut. 4. Connect the shaft and cap and then drill 2-3 very tiny holes opposite each other in the shaft no more than a quarter inch higher than the lip of the cap on the shaft end and then wrap that section with the holes with painters blue tape. 5. Now mix and add the JB/JD WELD up to and above the tape covering the holes and let it set overnight. 6. Remove the tape after completely setting and you will have your mounting point for you motor head.. only left is to mount the shaft to the track and the motor head to the shaft using the factor holes that were there and the set screw. Let me know if that works. Is removable in the event you ever decide to switch to a pwm controller and the track can always be used for other equipment. No major holes in your kayak.
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing Thank you so much for the breakdown, I will do it and report back. As for the trailer, I solved the problem; the kayak sits perfectly on the floor, no flex or rocking, so I figured a flat surface would be best on the trailer but I did not want a large surface so it would not float or be affected by waves, so I bolted two 1 x 8 boards one on each bunker (I have two), wrapped them in carpet, and now the kayak sits like it's on the ground. A small roller I already had on my trailer in the front I moved to fit directly under the front keel plastic protection. That takes care of the support. As for the winch, I removed the winch from the post and mounted it on the trailer frame (level with the trailer hitch) and I cut and moved the old winch post to the bow of the kayak and installed a receiving bumper just like on boats. PVC guides in the rear (tall ones with the lights on top) and one on either side in the middle (shorties) keep the kayak on track during loading. I wanted to cut my trailer (17') shorter but thought it's best to leave it longer, so I don't have to get wet on cold days, lol. My next project will be a live bait well. I'm thinking of using the useless hatch in the front. But that's in the planning stages.
Joe Rob the cart works great even with the kayak being as heavy as it is. I found a guy on UA-cam that built one for his Bonafide SS127. The yaks have a similar hull so I figured it would work with ours. Let me know if you need pics or a quick vid.
Hey, hope all is well with you, hope you had great holidays. I've been working the hurricanes and have not had too much time for modifications. My PWM did not work, it overheats no matter what I do and I'm using a 100 amp one. I also need more speed, long story, but where I fish, I can't move around at 2 mph. So I bought a 3.5 hp outboard motor (Mercury) and now I have to figure out the mount. I'll use the electric motor on the front, or on my side, close to the seat for simplicity and use during fishing. Long moves will be with the outboard.
The PWM mod is a tough build bc they create so much heat. And that heat causes failures again and again. If you can’t figure out how to keep the heat down you will be left peddling or paddling on the water. I’ve moved on to a Newport vessels nk180 for ponds and a 2.5 Suzuki for long days on the waterways. I like the outboard setup. I used aluminum angle irons to build the mount. There was some flex on the first go, so I had to add some aluminum brace pieces under the rear deck
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing, sounds like we're on the same page. I just got a Mercury 3.5 Four Stroke, and I'll be moving the electric to the front. For now I'll use what I have, but eventually, I'll get something for the bow with remote, spot lock, etc. For now I have to rig the motor. Any pics of your mount?
@@victorgatelljr.5753 I can def post a vid of the mount for you and how I braced under the rear deck. For sure! As for a front trolling motor set up. I’d suggest a haswing from Amazon. Wayyyyyy less expensive then the big boy and comes with spot lock. I have one on my flats boat and it works just fine!
Sick video man did some nice mods the mod with the tray was pretty slick I'm looking at this kayak as well as Wilderness Systems Recon 120 and 3 Waters big fish 105 I will definitely be putting a trolling motor on whatever kayak I get but would like to still get up into feeder creeks
The 3 Waters is a perfect platform for a trolling motor addition! But you can’t go wrong with the Recon either. Thanks for the comments about the mods. So far they’ve been working for me fishing. Make sure you post your mods when you do get the new sled!
The added swivel on the seat is genius. Im 6'3 with long legs and my main concern is having the seat slightly elevated and able to swivel around if needed. Thanks for this video! Lots of gems here. Im getting my Acsend package in April.
You’re welcome Bro. It wasn’t my idea as I found it on UA-cam but like you, I thought it was a great idea and I fit what I needed the yak to be. And believe me when I say.. it is so useful! The kayak is great.. i have some videos of me crossing a bay in the 10,000 islands of the the Everglades national park.. 2-3 ft chop.. not exaggerating. Minimal “spray” but the deck stayed dry. Love this boat! enjoy!
I’m thinking of a power pole and a small anchor winch that has a remote for the bow... those are the only two mods I’m looking at right now. But I’d have to bump up to a larger battery for my accessories
Hey man love the setup just got my 133x looking for different ways to set up. I was wondering where did you get the USB port that you put up front for your go pro I want to do something similar. Thanks
Hey, great set up! I just got mine and am trying to figure out the best way to wire a red and white LED set bought from Bass Pro. Also really want to get voltmeter and install it. What brand is yours?
My lights came from bass pro. The voltmeters I have on my were purchased on Amazon as well. I’ll see if I can attach the link. I just finished installing a steering set up that is used on Nucanoe. It’s really nice for our kayaks. Better than foot steering
The wiring is ran inside the boat. But the PWM only needs power to it then power sent to the motor. So +/- from battery to PWM. Then +/- to motor. The yellow n white wire inside motor head is not needed. The power to the motor is transferred from inside the hull thru a standard trolling motor plug installed on the stern bulkhead. Add a male connector on the +/- from the motor and simply plug n play
@Dirty Coast Yak Fishing Hey, I like your video. I wanna do a stern trolling motor like yours and trying to decide is 55lb. enough or should I go bigger like yours? I'm thinking of getting the Newport Vessels NV-Series 55lb. from Amazon ( I don't see the need of a $100 price jump from 55lb. to 62lb.). Is 7lb. that much difference? I fish mainly ponds and smaller lakes with a yearly trip to lake Erie. Also what battery did you use? How many Amp hours is it and what kind of run time do you get with it? I've been known to spend a full day out there fishing (sun up to sun down) and was thinking of adding a small 100-150 watt solar panel on it to keep the battery trickle charging. What's your thoughts on that? Sorry so many questions, you seem like an intuitive guy that would have some good ideas on this. Thanks again.
Chris, I don’t mind all the questions. I’ve had some myself at times and people have always been helpful. I would suggest to anyone to build their kayak to the fishing you enjoy the most. If it’s mostly lakes or ponds, bodies of water without too much tidal movement.. a 55lb would be just fine. There is absolutely no noticeable gains between 62 and 55lbs of thrust other than the torque in fast moving water. But other than that, I’ve not notice anything significant enough to justify the upgrade for the areas you will fish. Battery size, I went with the 100ah battery and I’ve yet to run my battery down. I carry two on the yak in the event I do, but even with continuous running all day, I’ve not run the battery down. If I’m not mistaken, you want at a minimum that your (ah) be equal to your pounds of thrust, to enjoy a decent day on the water. So I figured that if I doubled that, I should double my time on the water and so far it’s been that way. But, I do think the solar panel charger would be a great idea I think! I’ve considered it but I’ve not figured where I’d lay my panel out.
What are your thoughts for steering? I know in my video I used a tiller style steering pole, but I recent bought a steering set up off the Nucanoe site and I’ve fished with it for a couple trips to determine whether I like it better. I’m going to do a short video on that soon but if you fish from your seat mostly, it’s a good option to consider. It’s not too difficult to mount due to the fact that it comes with the mounting gear. Check it out on their site if you haven’t finalized your steering choice yet. Good luck and I hope my responses were helpful.
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing I was thinking of sort of a "hybrid" steering system. Basically have foot controls for seated steering but yet a "8 ball" style lever mounted to the side of the seat for a set it and forget it steering while standing to fish. As far as the solar idea...check out M&M KAYAKS video of a solar install... the panel is small enough to mount on top of the tackle crate. It's only a 20 watt panel though but, puts out 14+ volts....enough to trickle charge a battery. One change I'd make to his setup is I'd add an on/off switch to disconnect the panel once my battery was full (monitoring it's voltage on my volt guage or on my fish finders voltage reading) or add a small charge controller to disconnect it automatically when the battery is full and reconnects when the battery voltage drops below the set point.
Hey Dirty Coast! If I were to make mods to a 133X I COULD NOT have done anything better than you did! WOW!! My Man!! Even placing a rubber throttle-grip on the end of your push-pull rod! Yes, it is a small thing, but it shows that even the small things are very important to you! You leave NOTHING unfinished!! Where are you these days? I miss your videos! You took a lot of effort in explaining the construction details, and I so appreciate your efforts thoroughly! Thank you from the bottom of my heart! GREAT JOB! ..and please come back to make more super videos, won't you?
Can you send me your email address for questions or just tell me how you installed the swivel seat on your Ascend 133x? How are you using the cutting boards to install the swivel? A video or just a couple of pics will help. thanks Ray Hensley
Ray, sorry for the late reply. I can def make a video explaining how I did the swivel seat. I’ll try to get that up this evening. It’s pretty simple. If you’ve already figured it out, hope turned out how you wanted.
Thanks, I have already installed the swivel, not too happy with it, but would like to see how you did yours. I did install the drawer using the foot tracks, works great. I'll look for the video when you have time to post it, thanks again.
The steering pole is an extending painters pole. Picked it up at Home Depot. The arm that it’s connected to is a pvc pipe attached to an L bracket that I cut short on one end. I used an old hard wood floor dust mop n cut the part that you screw your pole into.. off. Connected it to the pvc with a screw n zip ties. I’ll make a short vid to explain it. Are you running the 133 or another kayak?
Love the Swivel Kayak! Need to do it to my 133x. Did Naples Kayak Fishing have a video on how to build one? If not, could I email you and learn how you did it??
I honestly do t remember if he posted one on the how to of the swivel seat. I’ve tried to load one before but it didn’t load. I’ll try to make another one for you tmw and load it. It’s pretty simple
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing could you tell me the exact Lowrance model of your sonar please? I am torn between a few ones and trying to research a bit more. Thanks
Following up, I used your idea for the steering as well as the raising of the motor with pulleys, works like a champ! Thank you! I modified your steering pole slightly and ran my PWM controls through the pipe and mounted them on the end so I can steer and control speed simultaneously. Not sure if your PWM overheats, mine does and it's annoying. I think I found a solution but I wanted to know if you had the same problem. I seem to overheat when going full speed for long distances or against the current. So I'm thinking of using a selector switch, like I use for my 2 batteries, to run the motor directly to the battery for long runs, and the PWM for finesse and slow moving while fishing. Let me know what you think!
So I’ve had issues with overheating pwm’s before. Actually left me stranded in the 10000 islands area in a storm. Which caused me to do two things. 1) built a control box with my standard speed controls from the trolling motor head and carrying it as a spare in my dry bag. I used quick connects for all my wiring to my pwm. 2) My 3rd version of my pwm, I added a heat diffuser to my box. And I used a larger amp pwm to work under the added load of long runs and going against strong currents. I got the idea from another guy on the tube and it worked for me. But again, I carry a spare box that I can easily sub in with quick connect plugs. As for your set up… you’ve got my mind racing with ideas now.. I like the idea of the controls being in the steering stick.. allowing one hand operation… especially when standing and fishing…. Hmmmm!!! I like that! I’m on it! Thanks for sharing. I hope that info helps with the pwm… let me know if you need a link… I’ll see if I can share that in this comment string between us
This is the heat sink I used to keep the heat down and so far it’s worked. Before I was running a 40amp PWM and then I upgraded to the 60amp I shared here and added this heat sink. Not sure if the heat sink will work with your set up but the 60amp PWM should fare better than the 40 if that’s what you’ve been using. Awxlumv Aluminum Large Heat Sink... www.amazon.com/dp/B089QJQY17?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing, Not sure if I can upload a pic, but I used an electrical conduit rectangular junction box, the ones that have two pipe entries and a side panel that opens. I mounted direction control there as well as the speed dial. Works awesome.
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing the Jonny Boat Bass 100 is a fun little boat! I wish it was pre wired like the ascend 133x. I love that Nucanoe Pursuit with the motor guide I3 w gps in the bow.
@@agentwynnoutdoors yes the Nu with the bow mount is nice! Clean! I had considered the Johnny bc I was thinking to run a 2.5/4 hp gas on the stern and have the motorized pod for stealth trolling. But it seemed to be too much making the boat a bit crowded. That’s the plans for the 133x. And yes, that yak power was a selling point for me.
I really enjoyed your video. I'd really like to know more about your PWM. What you used and how you mounted it in the box. Also your steering pole. Is it an after market or DIY? I like the way you have it.
Rick, glad you enjoyed my vid. The PWM was an Amazon purchase which I’ll add the link for. The steering pole is DIY. An extension pole for painting from Lowe’s. I’m building a PWM tmw evening so if you send your email I’ll send a vid of the build
It’s a jet ski trailer. Not sure about the width but it is wider than the kayak. Was using it to carry two kayaks at one point but now down to just one. The scupper plugs work well but even without them in, the kayak doesn’t get much water in thru them
Brother I absolutely love the modifications that you did to that seat and tray great job that’s my next project thank you
You have some really original ideas here. I hope to borrow some if I ever decide to buy a kayak. Thank you for sharing them.
Could you link the video that shows how to make the seat into a swivel seat?
Very impressive setup; well thought out and executed.
I just picked one up from Bass Pro Shops. I bought a cheap little trolling motor, because the Remote Control Power Drive's are on backorder for about 4 months. I would much rather have my Remote controlled setup on it, but I can get by on this cheap Minnkota, until I can get it...
I’ll make a vid about the swivel seat for you tmw. There’s a trolling motor on Amazon that’s pretty good and reliable. Offers bow mount with remote fob controller and Gps. I think the name is haswing but it’s an affordable option and available.
Great setup! Very well thought out with some very creative solutions. I just got the same kayak and just started modifying it.
Awesome! It a really good kayak at its price point. That’s my take. I can do anything from this platform and it’s STABLE no matter the user. I’m working on an optional 3.5hp outboard set up that I can easily swap out when needed.
Looking forward to seeing your vid and checking out what you come up with for your setup!!
I like it
What size swivel base and how thick are the commercial cutting board you used for seat
The base is a standard size from Walmart or bass pro.. the cutting board was the thickest I could find on Amazon
Thick Black Plastic Cutting Board 24x18 Extra Large for Restaurants, NSF Certified www.amazon.com/dp/B07DKY62RV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_2XM7JCTNG8DDSAY5Q5Q1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What length shaft is on your trolling motor? Do you think a Newport Vessels 55lb. Kayak series 24" shaft (the grey one) would be long enough? My kayak is the Ascend 128X, essentially the same kayak only a little smaller. The stern looks exactly the same. I plan on a pwm setup like yours.
Yes. That shaft should be long enough bc of the hull design. I actually cut my shaft down bc the design allows for a short shaft. If you go with a PWM, I’d suggest a quick disconnect set up for your cable that leave the box for your motor and your battery. PWM’s fail at times and it would suck to be stuck out there (been there done that). So either build two PWM boxes that the quick disconnect will allow you to switch out on the water OR make a secondary box using the stock control module inside the trolling motor head unit. Those rarely ever fail completely. That gives you a solid fail proof back up when you need to get home. I carry one in my dry bag with tools
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing Yes, I plan on using 10 gauge SAE connectors for the PWM (input and output), with opposite connectors for where power comes in from the battery and where power goes out to the trolling motor. That way in an emergency situation I can connect them together basically shorting the battery direct to the motor. It will be abrupt full power but, will get me back to shore at least. I can't take credit for the idea though, Tahoe Yakfisher here on UA-cam has a video on it and I liked the idea so, I'm going to try it. I also plan to make the motor mount out of 3/8" plate aluminum and HDPE with an aluminum plate backer inside the hull. Maybe overkill but, the mounting inserts it comes with don't seem that amazing to me, I've seen inserts come out or strip and spin. Thanks for the info though and for answering my question about the motor shaft length. What happened to your swivel seat video..I can't find it on your channel. You should also do an update video on your kayak explaining anything that's changed and highlighting what worked out well. Thanks.
@@chriscampbell1456 you’re right. I probably should do an update vid. Bc I’ve gone through some variations to that original video. As for the swivel seat video…. I didn’t notice it was no longer up… hmmm… I’ll have to look to repost. Good luck with the setup, sounds like you have a solid plan for a backup in the event it fails. Tahoe Yakfisher also has a video that shows how he manages the heat in his PWM box. I actually added that to my second build of a box and it works beautifully. I’m working on an engine mount bracket for a 3.5 hp mercury. I’m going gas on the stern and electric on the bow
So cool, Andre the giant can fish in this thing !!!👍
Brilliant
You are a smart, common sense guy. Great video, I’d certainly watch your videos,
I love your motor lift! Great idea!
Nice clean setup!!! Happy Fishing BlueLine !!!
Yo...A good friend of mines wants you to talk him thru some things on his kayak. He has the exact same kayak as you. Thanks man.
Feel free to have him hit me up. modernwps4@gmail.com
Feel free to have him hit me up modernwps4@gmail.com
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing cool. I'll let him know.
I like what you did. To this 133 kayak. It’s 2023 and I’m looking at the 133 too
Nice set up. Where do you fish normally? Bays, lakes, ponds?
Derek Holmes backcountry, gulf coast marsh from Florida to LOUISIANA for redfish trout flounder snook. St Lucie and Flagler county
Great setup! I love the simplicity. You kept it a kayak. Great idea with the drawer, solved my dilemma. I was thinking of removing the power head on my trolling motor, extending the wires, and mounting it, intact somewhere near the seat. Any ideas? I think I saw it on another video, but can't find it now.
I always have ideas.. just depends on what things you aren’t willing to do to your kayak. And if you want permanent or removable
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing The motor head is no problem, I think, since I don't need any USB or other electronic hook-ups. I just need to figure out how to mount it. My kayak will be on a trailer (from a 17' boat) so the motor can stay on it, or use a quick disconnect. Do you use a trailer? I'm having trouble figuring out how to support the bottom on my trailer that has two bunkers. I don't like the flex I get on the bottom between the two keels. I'm thinking of a flat board (like one bunker) and letting it sit flat like it was on the floor. That's my project for the weekend.
@@victorgatelljr.5753 trailer: I have a jet ski trailer and the bunks were causing the same issue and it did concern me some. I added additional bunks to sit flat under the deepest part of the hull and used the original ones as guide on bunks like your see on trailers built for catamaran hulls or pontoon boats. That worked great for ease of load and unloading as well as preventing that flex from not spreading out the weight bearing.
Motor head for the trolling motor. Buy some additional tracks like the ones that come stock on the yak. Either mount then in the rod holder channel left and right of the seat or on top the outside gunnel next to the seat. Order the track screws from Amazon that allow you to attach equipment to the tracks. After shortening the shaft on your trolling motor, the piece you cut off… you need to make a base for it to be attached to the track with the track bolt. Here’s how: 1. Buy some JD/JB Weld(I can’t remember the name exact) quick setting. 2. Find a pvc cap that will fit the shaft from the trolling motor. 3. Drill a hole in the cap to pass the screw thru. with the bolt head inside the cap and threaded end sticking out. You can add a nut to the threaded end outside the cap but I don’t think it’s necessary but if so, preferably a locking nut. 4. Connect the shaft and cap and then drill 2-3 very tiny holes opposite each other in the shaft no more than a quarter inch higher than the lip of the cap on the shaft end and then wrap that section with the holes with painters blue tape. 5. Now mix and add the JB/JD WELD up to and above the tape covering the holes and let it set overnight. 6. Remove the tape after completely setting and you will have your mounting point for you motor head.. only left is to mount the shaft to the track and the motor head to the shaft using the factor holes that were there and the set screw.
Let me know if that works. Is removable in the event you ever decide to switch to a pwm controller and the track can always be used for other equipment. No major holes in your kayak.
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing Thank you so much for the breakdown, I will do it and report back. As for the trailer, I solved the problem; the kayak sits perfectly on the floor, no flex or rocking, so I figured a flat surface would be best on the trailer but I did not want a large surface so it would not float or be affected by waves, so I bolted two 1 x 8 boards one on each bunker (I have two), wrapped them in carpet, and now the kayak sits like it's on the ground. A small roller I already had on my trailer in the front I moved to fit directly under the front keel plastic protection. That takes care of the support. As for the winch, I removed the winch from the post and mounted it on the trailer frame (level with the trailer hitch) and I cut and moved the old winch post to the bow of the kayak and installed a receiving bumper just like on boats. PVC guides in the rear (tall ones with the lights on top) and one on either side in the middle (shorties) keep the kayak on track during loading. I wanted to cut my trailer (17') shorter but thought it's best to leave it longer, so I don't have to get wet on cold days, lol. My next project will be a live bait well. I'm thinking of using the useless hatch in the front. But that's in the planning stages.
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing, BTW, I love the mechanical advantage on your pulley system! Most people miss that
Good video and mods. I have the 133x also and love it.
How does your cart connect to the kayak?
Thanks
Joe Rob the cart works great even with the kayak being as heavy as it is. I found a guy on UA-cam that built one for his Bonafide SS127. The yaks have a similar hull so I figured it would work with ours. Let me know if you need pics or a quick vid.
Hey, hope all is well with you, hope you had great holidays. I've been working the hurricanes and have not had too much time for modifications. My PWM did not work, it overheats no matter what I do and I'm using a 100 amp one. I also need more speed, long story, but where I fish, I can't move around at 2 mph. So I bought a 3.5 hp outboard motor (Mercury) and now I have to figure out the mount. I'll use the electric motor on the front, or on my side, close to the seat for simplicity and use during fishing. Long moves will be with the outboard.
The PWM mod is a tough build bc they create so much heat. And that heat causes failures again and again. If you can’t figure out how to keep the heat down you will be left peddling or paddling on the water. I’ve moved on to a Newport vessels nk180 for ponds and a 2.5 Suzuki for long days on the waterways. I like the outboard setup. I used aluminum angle irons to build the mount. There was some flex on the first go, so I had to add some aluminum brace pieces under the rear deck
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing, sounds like we're on the same page. I just got a Mercury 3.5 Four Stroke, and I'll be moving the electric to the front. For now I'll use what I have, but eventually, I'll get something for the bow with remote, spot lock, etc. For now I have to rig the motor. Any pics of your mount?
@@victorgatelljr.5753 I can def post a vid of the mount for you and how I braced under the rear deck. For sure! As for a front trolling motor set up. I’d suggest a haswing from Amazon. Wayyyyyy less expensive then the big boy and comes with spot lock. I have one on my flats boat and it works just fine!
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing Thank you! When the time comes, I will look into the Haswing, I think the model I saw with spot lock is the Cayman
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing So I resolved my speed issue, lol. ua-cam.com/video/ZR_Onr13h2g/v-deo.html
Sick video man did some nice mods the mod with the tray was pretty slick I'm looking at this kayak as well as Wilderness Systems Recon 120 and 3 Waters big fish 105 I will definitely be putting a trolling motor on whatever kayak I get but would like to still get up into feeder creeks
The 3 Waters is a perfect platform for a trolling motor addition! But you can’t go wrong with the Recon either. Thanks for the comments about the mods. So far they’ve been working for me fishing. Make sure you post your mods when you do get the new sled!
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing will do it will be on my Channel hoping to get into one by next spring
The added swivel on the seat is genius. Im 6'3 with long legs and my main concern is having the seat slightly elevated and able to swivel around if needed. Thanks for this video! Lots of gems here. Im getting my Acsend package in April.
You’re welcome Bro. It wasn’t my idea as I found it on UA-cam but like you, I thought it was a great idea and I fit what I needed the yak to be. And believe me when I say.. it is so useful! The kayak is great.. i have some videos of me crossing a bay in the 10,000 islands of the the Everglades national park.. 2-3 ft chop.. not exaggerating. Minimal “spray” but the deck stayed dry. Love this boat! enjoy!
Live your set up bro...really like it...any more mods you may recommend???
I’m thinking of a power pole and a small anchor winch that has a remote for the bow... those are the only two mods I’m looking at right now. But I’d have to bump up to a larger battery for my accessories
I love the setup. Ill be getting one soon.
Hope you share how you set yours up. Share some of your ideas. Thanks
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing I will!
Hey man love the setup just got my 133x looking for different ways to set up. I was wondering where did you get the USB port that you put up front for your go pro I want to do something similar. Thanks
Sorry I’m just seeing your comment. Thanks. I picked it up off Amazon. Not sure if you found one already but if you need the link let me know.
Hey, great set up! I just got mine and am trying to figure out the best way to wire a red and white LED set bought from Bass Pro. Also really want to get voltmeter and install it. What brand is yours?
My lights came from bass pro. The voltmeters I have on my were purchased on Amazon as well. I’ll see if I can attach the link. I just finished installing a steering set up that is used on Nucanoe. It’s really nice for our kayaks. Better than foot steering
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing Right on! I’m putting a Terrova on the front with iPilot - would the steering system still be needed or beneficial with that?
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing Did you do multiple volt meters? One for troller batter and one for Yak Power?
@@decker5479 the terrova will be just fine by itself. That was only if running a rear trolling motor set up.
@@decker5479 yes two volt meters exactly how you questioned. One for the yak power batteries and another just for the trolling motor battery
Well done man some great ideas
Did you add a motor to it
A trolling motor yes. Working on a 4-6hp now.. that’s going to be my last modification to make it versatile for coastal fishing as well as inshore
Lover your videos ,thank you
man , I like your setup
Some great ideas. How does the PWM get wired into the electric system?
The wiring is ran inside the boat. But the PWM only needs power to it then power sent to the motor. So +/- from battery to PWM. Then +/- to motor. The yellow n white wire inside motor head is not needed. The power to the motor is transferred from inside the hull thru a standard trolling motor plug installed on the stern bulkhead. Add a male connector on the +/- from the motor and simply plug n play
I have been looking at other videos of the 133x setup and this is by far the cleanest and simplest I have seen, fantastic video.
Thanks. Greatly appreciated!
great mods!
@Dirty Coast Yak Fishing Hey, I like your video. I wanna do a stern trolling motor like yours and trying to decide is 55lb. enough or should I go bigger like yours? I'm thinking of getting the Newport Vessels NV-Series 55lb. from Amazon ( I don't see the need of a $100 price jump from 55lb. to 62lb.). Is 7lb. that much difference? I fish mainly ponds and smaller lakes with a yearly trip to lake Erie. Also what battery did you use? How many Amp hours is it and what kind of run time do you get with it? I've been known to spend a full day out there fishing (sun up to sun down) and was thinking of adding a small 100-150 watt solar panel on it to keep the battery trickle charging. What's your thoughts on that? Sorry so many questions, you seem like an intuitive guy that would have some good ideas on this. Thanks again.
Chris, I don’t mind all the questions. I’ve had some myself at times and people have always been helpful. I would suggest to anyone to build their kayak to the fishing you enjoy the most. If it’s mostly lakes or ponds, bodies of water without too much tidal movement.. a 55lb would be just fine. There is absolutely no noticeable gains between 62 and 55lbs of thrust other than the torque in fast moving water. But other than that, I’ve not notice anything significant enough to justify the upgrade for the areas you will fish.
Battery size, I went with the 100ah battery and I’ve yet to run my battery down. I carry two on the yak in the event I do, but even with continuous running all day, I’ve not run the battery down. If I’m not mistaken, you want at a minimum that your (ah) be equal to your pounds of thrust, to enjoy a decent day on the water. So I figured that if I doubled that, I should double my time on the water and so far it’s been that way. But, I do think the solar panel charger would be a great idea I think! I’ve considered it but I’ve not figured where I’d lay my panel out.
What are your thoughts for steering? I know in my video I used a tiller style steering pole, but I recent bought a steering set up off the Nucanoe site and I’ve fished with it for a couple trips to determine whether I like it better. I’m going to do a short video on that soon but if you fish from your seat mostly, it’s a good option to consider. It’s not too difficult to mount due to the fact that it comes with the mounting gear. Check it out on their site if you haven’t finalized your steering choice yet.
Good luck and I hope my responses were helpful.
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing I was thinking of sort of a "hybrid" steering system. Basically have foot controls for seated steering but yet a "8 ball" style lever mounted to the side of the seat for a set it and forget it steering while standing to fish. As far as the solar idea...check out M&M KAYAKS video of a solar install... the panel is small enough to mount on top of the tackle crate. It's only a 20 watt panel though but, puts out 14+ volts....enough to trickle charge a battery. One change I'd make to his setup is I'd add an on/off switch to disconnect the panel once my battery was full (monitoring it's voltage on my volt guage or on my fish finders voltage reading) or add a small charge controller to disconnect it automatically when the battery is full and reconnects when the battery voltage drops below the set point.
I have a question, is this kayak recommended for use in salt water in the ocean?
I can’t say that it’s recommended ocean use, but I’ve had mine near shore off pompano here in SFL
Hey is the ducer mount a solid plastic piece or did you have to seal the area under the boat so it doesn't leak?
It comes with a mounting bracket that is a solid piece of plastic. No need to seal anything.
Hey Dirty Coast! If I were to make mods to a 133X I COULD NOT have done anything better than you did! WOW!! My Man!! Even placing a rubber throttle-grip on the end of your push-pull rod! Yes, it is a small thing, but it shows that even the small things are very important to you! You leave NOTHING unfinished!!
Where are you these days? I miss your videos! You took a lot of effort in explaining the construction details, and I so appreciate your efforts thoroughly! Thank you from the bottom of my heart! GREAT JOB! ..and please come back to make more super videos, won't you?
Nice video
Can you send me your email address for questions or just tell me how you installed the swivel seat on your Ascend 133x? How are you using the cutting boards to install the swivel? A video or just a couple of pics will help. thanks Ray Hensley
Ray, sorry for the late reply. I can def make a video explaining how I did the swivel seat. I’ll try to get that up this evening. It’s pretty simple. If you’ve already figured it out, hope turned out how you wanted.
Thanks, I have already installed the swivel, not too happy with it, but would like to see how you did yours. I did install the drawer using the foot tracks, works great. I'll look for the video when you have time to post it, thanks again.
@@rayhensley961 video should be up.
what kind of trailer did you use?
It’s a jet ski trailer or small dinghy trailer
Def like what you did with the yak💯
Thanks Bro
can you give me a link for the swivel seat bracket? Thannks
attwood Attwood Boat Seat Swivel, Black, 6-1/4" www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0D6SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TCMN7DFW1D3VCGVECRT2
Same swivel is on Walmart but it wouldn’t let me copy n paste
Where did you get the steering pole from.
The steering pole is an extending painters pole. Picked it up at Home Depot. The arm that it’s connected to is a pvc pipe attached to an L bracket that I cut short on one end. I used an old hard wood floor dust mop n cut the part that you screw your pole into.. off. Connected it to the pvc with a screw n zip ties. I’ll make a short vid to explain it.
Are you running the 133 or another kayak?
Love the Swivel Kayak! Need to do it to my 133x. Did Naples Kayak Fishing have a video on how to build one? If not, could I email you and learn how you did it??
I honestly do t remember if he posted one on the how to of the swivel seat. I’ve tried to load one before but it didn’t load. I’ll try to make another one for you tmw and load it. It’s pretty simple
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing I would certainly appreciate a video! I’m much more of a visual learner lol
Awesome, creative and simple set up, man!! So well explained!! 💪🏼🎉
Thanks bro! Keep it simple and clutter free.
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing could you tell me the exact Lowrance model of your sonar please? I am torn between a few ones and trying to research a bit more. Thanks
@@andreii7572 hook2 triple shot
That’s sick man thanks for the ideas
Thanks bro
What type of cutting board did you use
It was a basic cutting board from Walmart or Amazon. Amazon may have different thicknesses if I remember correctly
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing nice work 💯
Nice bro I like 👍🏾
Thanks bro. We might have to hook up for some Coral Springs peacock. I’m new to the area.
Where did you get the little interior lights
James Gresham amazon. Search marine or boat lighting. They come in a 4 pack
Ok thanks
Can you show or tell a little more detail on the pole steer for the trolling motor?
Sure. I’m doing a PWM build for another guy so I’ll do a separate vid for the steering. I’ll let you know when I post it
Awesome! I appreciate the quick response!
Following up, I used your idea for the steering as well as the raising of the motor with pulleys, works like a champ! Thank you! I modified your steering pole slightly and ran my PWM controls through the pipe and mounted them on the end so I can steer and control speed simultaneously. Not sure if your PWM overheats, mine does and it's annoying. I think I found a solution but I wanted to know if you had the same problem. I seem to overheat when going full speed for long distances or against the current. So I'm thinking of using a selector switch, like I use for my 2 batteries, to run the motor directly to the battery for long runs, and the PWM for finesse and slow moving while fishing. Let me know what you think!
So I’ve had issues with overheating pwm’s before. Actually left me stranded in the 10000 islands area in a storm. Which caused me to do two things. 1) built a control box with my standard speed controls from the trolling motor head and carrying it as a spare in my dry bag. I used quick connects for all my wiring to my pwm. 2) My 3rd version of my pwm, I added a heat diffuser to my box. And I used a larger amp pwm to work under the added load of long runs and going against strong currents. I got the idea from another guy on the tube and it worked for me. But again, I carry a spare box that I can easily sub in with quick connect plugs.
As for your set up… you’ve got my mind racing with ideas now.. I like the idea of the controls being in the steering stick.. allowing one hand operation… especially when standing and fishing…. Hmmmm!!! I like that! I’m on it! Thanks for sharing. I hope that info helps with the pwm… let me know if you need a link… I’ll see if I can share that in this comment string between us
PWM DC10-55V 12V 24V 36V 48V 60A PWM DC Motor Speed Controller Reversible Switch Set DC Brush Motor Tools Accessories Supplies a.co/d/hjPyS79
This is the heat sink I used to keep the heat down and so far it’s worked. Before I was running a 40amp PWM and then I upgraded to the 60amp I shared here and added this heat sink. Not sure if the heat sink will work with your set up but the 60amp PWM should fare better than the 40 if that’s what you’ve been using.
Awxlumv Aluminum Large Heat Sink... www.amazon.com/dp/B089QJQY17?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing, Not sure if I can upload a pic, but I used an electrical conduit rectangular junction box, the ones that have two pipe entries and a side panel that opens. I mounted direction control there as well as the speed dial. Works awesome.
How much was it
Just over 1k after tax.
Nice setup...
She clean bro! Good Job!
Thanks Bro! I just added a Nucanoe steering system. How you loving that Johnny boat?
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing the Jonny Boat Bass 100 is a fun little boat! I wish it was pre wired like the ascend 133x. I love that Nucanoe Pursuit with the motor guide I3 w gps in the bow.
@@agentwynnoutdoors yes the Nu with the bow mount is nice! Clean! I had considered the Johnny bc I was thinking to run a 2.5/4 hp gas on the stern and have the motorized pod for stealth trolling. But it seemed to be too much making the boat a bit crowded. That’s the plans for the 133x. And yes, that yak power was a selling point for me.
I really enjoyed your video. I'd really like to know more about your PWM. What you used and how you mounted it in the box. Also your steering pole. Is it an after market or DIY? I like the way you have it.
Rick, glad you enjoyed my vid. The PWM was an Amazon purchase which I’ll add the link for. The steering pole is DIY. An extension pole for painting from Lowe’s. I’m building a PWM tmw evening so if you send your email I’ll send a vid of the build
@@DirtyCoastYakFishing Thank you. Looking forward to it.
@dirtycoastyak awesome vid bro.. what kind of trailer do you use to transport and how wide is the trailer? Also how good do those scuppers work?
It’s a jet ski trailer. Not sure about the width but it is wider than the kayak. Was using it to carry two kayaks at one point but now down to just one. The scupper plugs work well but even without them in, the kayak doesn’t get much water in thru them
Nice set-up
Thanks.
Awesome setup bro 🤟
Thanks bro..some of your ideas helped 🙏🏽
Could you help me out with the 360 seat I bought the nucanoe 360 seat kit
@@jaredsfishing5397 sure! I’m not familiar with the nucanue version but I’m certain it can’t be that hard. DM me on IG dirty_coast_yak_fishing