Excellent, thanks!! I just bought an 05 manual and the suspension needs some tlc. I'll be using your video (s) for guidance. High quality video and easy to follow. Appreciate it
Other than H&R, what other (affordable) springs go well with KYBs? Previous owner cut the springs to lower it. I hate the ride! Rides too stiff for my bad back.
I had the Eibach prokit springs with a size 45 sidewall tires and I hated scraping and bottoming out. It was not comfortable lol. The H&R springs raised the car a bit and I also went back to the 50 sidewall tire, which was better. Now I want to go back up a lil more so I'm planning to buy the Tein H-tech springs.
Thanks! Yes, if you buy the whole damper assembly (shock and spring) it makes the job easier. I have aftermarket shocks with (aftermarket) drop springs and I prefer to use OEM rubber insulators so I need to take it all apart. I'm used to it though.
Thanks for this video. My boyfriend will be replacing my shocks and struts. What is your opinion on aftermarket parts like Monroe? I have a 2006 TSX with 200,000. The complete package will cost me about $400. But authentic Acura OEM parts will run me $900. Thoughts?
You're welcome! Aftermarket parts are good, I use them, just gotta use reputable brands. KYB has a great reputation for shocks, that's what I used for the TSX and they are close to feeling like the original shocks. I wouldn't use OEM shocks because they're very expensive and the car is getting old so its not worth it. Cheapest route would be to use KYB shocks, reuse the springs and the metal part of the top shock mount. You'll want to replace the two rubber bushings sandwiched at the top of the strut mount. You'll also want to replace the large round rubber insulator that goes under the top strut mount. I also recommend to buy new bump stops too, OEM bump stops are better than the KYB and other aftermarket bump stops youll see for the TSX out there. In summary, I'd replace the rubber parts (including bump stop) with OEM parts, reuse the springs and other metal parts, and use KYB for the shocks. I purchased my KYB shocks on amazon. I buy my OEM parts from www.acuraoemparts.com because they take paypal and that makes checking out simpler.
What is the tool you use to torque down the top of the shock/strut? Can't find it in store or the name of it. Is it okay to just tighten it down till it won't go any further?
I have links in the video description. I think you're referring to the crowfoot flare nut wrench. I'm using the torque wrench with an extension and the crowfoot wrench attached to the extension. You should be okay tightening with wrist power until it stops, then back it out a quarter turn. KYB says to tighten a little after the bushing starts bulging but when I did that it was too loose and heard clunking noise at the top of the shock when I was driving.
Are you referring to the bolt that goes on top of the damper shaft on the shock or the bolt that holds in the damper fork? I used to tighten the lower damper fork bolt while under tension and don't recall having any issues.
@@DuckDonald44 You should be able to tighten the top damper shaft nut with the shocks already installed on the car. Just make sure the nuts on both shocks are tightened about the same. I look at the number of threads visible on the top of the but to see if they're about the same.
Thanks for the video Miguel. My Accord Type S shocks are beginning to feel floaty even though they're riding on the Eibach Pro Kit. Would this procedure be the same with say Bilstein B6? Also, could I bother you for a gen 1 TSX shop manual if you have a link to one? Anyways, your channel is exactly what I needed so you got yourself a new subscriber.
So you have OEM shocks with Eibach spings? I don't have experience with Bilstein but they look similar to the KYB shocks, shouldn't be much different. Just make sure to read through the documentation that comes with Bilstein shocks. I don't have the link to the gen1 shop manual online, but there is a gen2 shop manual and I believe a lot of things are the same drive.google.com/file/d/19Uz97J0DdUuleKp4kOVCdAeC-tEgfl8e/view?usp=sharing. I did a quick search and found this gen1 manual drive.google.com/file/d/1yuT-biqsgy25POY20aNKwIpMJEROFSCo/view?usp=sharing
I love your videos! Clear and to the point with great editing and camera views. However, I'm stuck. I'm trying to put oem stock shocks and springs back on the tsx and I can't get the front shocks into the fork since the oem shocks are longer than my konis. Any tips? Would I have to disconnect my upper control arms to lower the spindle lower?
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the stock springs are longer and will increase the size of the shock/spring together. Did you already try disconnecting the sway bar end link from the lower control arm? If you disconnect the sway bar end link, that should allow the lower control arm to drop down lower.
@@ChavezDIY No I didn't. Thanks for the insight! When my Konis were originally installed a shop did it. I've taken the konis out myself years ago and swapped springs and it was easy, but wasn't expecting to encounter a longer shock going back to stock since I didnt swap the konis in. Thanks Miguel!
Here's a link to the second generation TSX, but it is not specific to the station wagon version. drive.google.com/file/d/19Uz97J0DdUuleKp4kOVCdAeC-tEgfl8e/view?usp=sharing
I attempted to do my front passenger side strut after successfully doing the driver-side. But I could not get the strut off of the knuckle after removing the two bolts that you showed removing first. Any tips?
I haven't done this job since I made this video. Let me see if I understand. The spring/shock damper does not connect with the steering knuckle, it only connects to the body of the car at the top and to the lower control arm at the bottom through the damper fork. Are you able to drop the damper fork down and off the bottom part of the shock body?
I have never had an issue getting the alignment tab to line up so I can't really say. That's a good question. I suppose as long as both front shocks are inserted the same amount into the fork you're okay.
@@ChavezDIY Thanks for the response, it was strange because everything else fit in fine(The top mounting bolts, and the damper fork). I've been driving it a week and keeping a close eye on it. So far so good. Thanks for video :).
Koni's pros: adjustable damper from soft to stiff, perch has two height settings so you can lower it more if you want, perch moves so its easy to turn the spring mount if you need to turn it to help with installation, top nut on shaft is easy to tighten and loosen great handling for the driver. Koni's cons: overall you'll still find them to be stiff compared to stock, the passengers may hate the stiff feel, definitely feel the road imperfections more. The front shocks take a beating more than the rears. KYB shocks perform more like OEM, no adjustments on the perch and the perch doesn't move so you have to align everything good before installing onto the car, the top nut requires two wrenches to loosen and tighten which is super annoying. After my son was born and my car became the family car I got tired of the stiff ride and wanted something more like stock. The OEM shocks cost about $150 each and KYB's are about half that price. If you have family but its not your daily driver car, go for the Koni's. If its your daily driver I recommend the KYBs.
@@jacktran960 You're welcome! It really depends what standard you have with ride comfort. Sure, I would personally change the shocks at 124k miles, especially if you have the money. The dealer probably recommends it like every 80k to 100k. If money is tight and you are okay with the way the car rides, you don't have to change them. My mother in law has 150k miles on the original shocks and springs of her 2003 Corolla. They're overdue to be changed, but shes okay with the way it rides, haha.
@@jacktran960 That floaty feel is a sign that the shocks are worn. The shocks on your TSX are older and have more miles, so it is expected that ride comfort will be compromised. Considering the shocks on your TSX are about 10yrs old and have 124k mi, I would change them.
These are Moog brand. They are a little beefier compared to the OEM links. I bought them on amazon. The OEM links cost about 3x more than these aftermarket links.
Hows it goin man, I had a question about the bumpstops. I want to install some Konis with some eibach lowering springs, but I heard you need to cut your oem bumpstops? Is this true? And if so by how much? Thanks!
My first aftermarket setup on this car was Koni Yellows with Eibach pro kit. I did not install them myself, I had a shop do it for me and over time I realized they did not put the stock bump stocks back on. I had no bump stops which was terrible as the car would bottom out and it was loud. So I installed KYB bump stops and the car would bottom out on the bump stops easily. It was annoying but not really a safety concern. I ended up cutting the KYB bump stops in half and that was better. You can leave the full OEM bump stop on and if you don't like it and need to cut it, lift the front of the car, remove the wheels and you should have access to the bump stops. Just cut them with a long metal blade that goes on a metal cutting hand saw. The issues you will run into with going low is scraping of the engine splash shield, if you still have it, consider it gone, even the part that covers the wheel wells. I also had issues with the exhaust flex pipe getting damaged, so get ready to hear the exhaust leaks.
@@eptv3644 I currently have H&R springs and the drop is less and more comfortable for all around driving. The problem with dropping that car is that the exhaust downpipe sticks out from under the car. When you look under the car you can see the exhaust downpipe. Your exhaust won't hit everywhere, but eventually you will hit something.
You must be referring to the nut that threads into the center of the top mount. The OEM manual says to torque the nut down to 22ft lbs (if I remember correctly). My goal was 22ft lbs but it just bottoms out without reaching 22ft lbs. I'm using aftermarket KYB shock/dampers and H&R lowering springs and that may be why it bottoms out for me? Maybe it actually reaches 22ft lbs using OEM dampers and OEM springs without bottoming out, I don't know. That's the problem with buying aftermarket products, the installation may be different from OEM and things don't function per the OEM manual. I viewed some videos on the KYB youtube channel and they said to thread the nut down until the rubber bushings just start to bulge. I did that the first time I installed the shocks and they were too loose and I had noises coming from the shock mounts. I think the sweet spot is in between bottoming out the nut and when it starts to bulge. I might aim for 22ft lbs next time and then back it out a lil.
The reason your torque wrench didn't get to 22 ft-lbs is due to the fact that you were using a crows foot wrench, which changes the torque ratio for your torque wrench (kind of like a gear ratio). The required input torque at the torque wrench would be less than 22 ft-lbs to achieve 22 ft-lbs at the nut.
Thanks for the feedback! I will look into that and see how the crow's foot attachment changes torque. I have read people say that socket extensions also change the torque, but in my own tests I find the difference negligible and sometimes no difference.
The long lower bolt on the damper fork? First put the lower bolt in before putting in the upper bolt. That gives you enough room to wiggle the damper fork to align the holes. When the holes are aligned, push the bolt in with your palm and wiggle it if needed. Sometimes I tap in the bolt using a wrench, but only if the bolt has passed through the first hole and it gets stuck and doesn't want to come out the other end.
@@ChavezDIY no the one on the top. Idk why I am struggling so much to put it in I did it so easily on the passenger side. I might have threaded the bolt on accident.
@@ChavezDIY it screws in like about 35% in and then it gets really hard to put in. And if you try putting it in with an impact it stays in that same spot even with a wrench.
@@DR-UTAH check and clean the threads on the bolt and the hole. Use brake cleaner and a rag if you have some. If a thread is damaged on the bolt you might need to use a small file to fix it.
I can't confirm because I don't own that car. Here is the manual the second generation TSX, feel free too look in there and see if its the same. drive.google.com/file/d/1INd61Wkrl0WYQ_I9MDH1ccLjnV4n1wyd/view
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You're an absolute legend. This has helped me so much replacing my front struts.
Thanks for the feedback brother! 😎👍🏼
At 4:00 is the most value information! You can lose all day figuring out how to align, and won`t work at all. Thanks!
You bet! That part is important. I wish it was easier, but that's the way they designed this suspension setup.
@@ChavezDIY finally I've managed to put all the things together today. All good - just need to bleed the brakes, and that`s it
Excellent, thanks!! I just bought an 05 manual and the suspension needs some tlc. I'll be using your video (s) for guidance.
High quality video and easy to follow. Appreciate it
You're welcome! Enjoy the new ride! =)
I purchased the full assembly .Nice tutorial
Awesome! =)
The first generation tsx will be classic cars soon
Bravo Miguel, thank you for keeping the video direct and informative.
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback! 👍🏻😎
Great video miguel thanks for the tips you show here
Thanks for the feedback! you're welcome!
Other than H&R, what other (affordable) springs go well with KYBs? Previous owner cut the springs to lower it. I hate the ride! Rides too stiff for my bad back.
I had the Eibach prokit springs with a size 45 sidewall tires and I hated scraping and bottoming out. It was not comfortable lol. The H&R springs raised the car a bit and I also went back to the 50 sidewall tire, which was better. Now I want to go back up a lil more so I'm planning to buy the Tein H-tech springs.
Good detail video. Wouldnt just be easy to just buy the whole spring and shock/spring? So you wouldn't have to mess with that spring?
Thanks! Yes, if you buy the whole damper assembly (shock and spring) it makes the job easier. I have aftermarket shocks with (aftermarket) drop springs and I prefer to use OEM rubber insulators so I need to take it all apart. I'm used to it though.
Thanks for this video. My boyfriend will be replacing my shocks and struts. What is your opinion on aftermarket parts like Monroe? I have a 2006 TSX with 200,000. The complete package will cost me about $400. But authentic Acura OEM parts will run me $900. Thoughts?
You're welcome! Aftermarket parts are good, I use them, just gotta use reputable brands. KYB has a great reputation for shocks, that's what I used for the TSX and they are close to feeling like the original shocks. I wouldn't use OEM shocks because they're very expensive and the car is getting old so its not worth it. Cheapest route would be to use KYB shocks, reuse the springs and the metal part of the top shock mount. You'll want to replace the two rubber bushings sandwiched at the top of the strut mount. You'll also want to replace the large round rubber insulator that goes under the top strut mount. I also recommend to buy new bump stops too, OEM bump stops are better than the KYB and other aftermarket bump stops youll see for the TSX out there. In summary, I'd replace the rubber parts (including bump stop) with OEM parts, reuse the springs and other metal parts, and use KYB for the shocks. I purchased my KYB shocks on amazon. I buy my OEM parts from www.acuraoemparts.com because they take paypal and that makes checking out simpler.
What is the tool you use to torque down the top of the shock/strut? Can't find it in store or the name of it. Is it okay to just tighten it down till it won't go any further?
I have links in the video description. I think you're referring to the crowfoot flare nut wrench. I'm using the torque wrench with an extension and the crowfoot wrench attached to the extension. You should be okay tightening with wrist power until it stops, then back it out a quarter turn. KYB says to tighten a little after the bushing starts bulging but when I did that it was too loose and heard clunking noise at the top of the shock when I was driving.
@@ChavezDIYThanks for the help, gonna give it a try
I didn’t tighten my Dampner bolt enough - can I tighten it while under tension?
Are you referring to the bolt that goes on top of the damper shaft on the shock or the bolt that holds in the damper fork? I used to tighten the lower damper fork bolt while under tension and don't recall having any issues.
@@ChavezDIY the first one
@@DuckDonald44 You should be able to tighten the top damper shaft nut with the shocks already installed on the car. Just make sure the nuts on both shocks are tightened about the same. I look at the number of threads visible on the top of the but to see if they're about the same.
@@ChavezDIY thanks mate, appreciate it :)
Thanks for the video Miguel. My Accord Type S shocks are beginning to feel floaty even though they're riding on the Eibach Pro Kit. Would this procedure be the same with say Bilstein B6? Also, could I bother you for a gen 1 TSX shop manual if you have a link to one? Anyways, your channel is exactly what I needed so you got yourself a new subscriber.
So you have OEM shocks with Eibach spings? I don't have experience with Bilstein but they look similar to the KYB shocks, shouldn't be much different. Just make sure to read through the documentation that comes with Bilstein shocks. I don't have the link to the gen1 shop manual online, but there is a gen2 shop manual and I believe a lot of things are the same drive.google.com/file/d/19Uz97J0DdUuleKp4kOVCdAeC-tEgfl8e/view?usp=sharing. I did a quick search and found this gen1 manual drive.google.com/file/d/1yuT-biqsgy25POY20aNKwIpMJEROFSCo/view?usp=sharing
@@ChavezDIY You're an absolute legend. Thanks for taking the time, I appreciate it!
I love your videos! Clear and to the point with great editing and camera views. However, I'm stuck. I'm trying to put oem stock shocks and springs back on the tsx and I can't get the front shocks into the fork since the oem shocks are longer than my konis. Any tips? Would I have to disconnect my upper control arms to lower the spindle lower?
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the stock springs are longer and will increase the size of the shock/spring together. Did you already try disconnecting the sway bar end link from the lower control arm? If you disconnect the sway bar end link, that should allow the lower control arm to drop down lower.
@@ChavezDIY No I didn't. Thanks for the insight! When my Konis were originally installed a shop did it. I've taken the konis out myself years ago and swapped springs and it was easy, but wasn't expecting to encounter a longer shock going back to stock since I didnt swap the konis in. Thanks Miguel!
Very good video, do you have a link for a CW1 workshop manual?
Here's a link to the second generation TSX, but it is not specific to the station wagon version. drive.google.com/file/d/19Uz97J0DdUuleKp4kOVCdAeC-tEgfl8e/view?usp=sharing
Was thinking of getting KyB fully assembled strut's? Are they good for 08 TSX
KYB makes good suspension products. I would buy their shocks again.
I attempted to do my front passenger side strut after successfully doing the driver-side. But I could not get the strut off of the knuckle after removing the two bolts that you showed removing first. Any tips?
I haven't done this job since I made this video. Let me see if I understand. The spring/shock damper does not connect with the steering knuckle, it only connects to the body of the car at the top and to the lower control arm at the bottom through the damper fork. Are you able to drop the damper fork down and off the bottom part of the shock body?
is it a big deal if I can't get the alignment tab to line up with the damper fork? its in as deep as it can go aside from that and torqued down.
I have never had an issue getting the alignment tab to line up so I can't really say. That's a good question. I suppose as long as both front shocks are inserted the same amount into the fork you're okay.
@@ChavezDIY Thanks for the response, it was strange because everything else fit in fine(The top mounting bolts, and the damper fork). I've been driving it a week and keeping a close eye on it. So far so good. Thanks for video :).
How do you like the KYBs compared to Koni yellow? I'm trying to decide between which one to get my 2010 tsx.
Koni's pros: adjustable damper from soft to stiff, perch has two height settings so you can lower it more if you want, perch moves so its easy to turn the spring mount if you need to turn it to help with installation, top nut on shaft is easy to tighten and loosen great handling for the driver. Koni's cons: overall you'll still find them to be stiff compared to stock, the passengers may hate the stiff feel, definitely feel the road imperfections more. The front shocks take a beating more than the rears. KYB shocks perform more like OEM, no adjustments on the perch and the perch doesn't move so you have to align everything good before installing onto the car, the top nut requires two wrenches to loosen and tighten which is super annoying. After my son was born and my car became the family car I got tired of the stiff ride and wanted something more like stock. The OEM shocks cost about $150 each and KYB's are about half that price. If you have family but its not your daily driver car, go for the Koni's. If its your daily driver I recommend the KYBs.
@@ChavezDIYThanks for the info! Do you think it's worthwhile to change the shocks at 124k miles?
@@jacktran960 You're welcome! It really depends what standard you have with ride comfort. Sure, I would personally change the shocks at 124k miles, especially if you have the money. The dealer probably recommends it like every 80k to 100k. If money is tight and you are okay with the way the car rides, you don't have to change them. My mother in law has 150k miles on the original shocks and springs of her 2003 Corolla. They're overdue to be changed, but shes okay with the way it rides, haha.
@@ChavezDIY The ride feels a bit floaty sometimes compared to my '14 odyssey that has only 85k miles.
@@jacktran960 That floaty feel is a sign that the shocks are worn. The shocks on your TSX are older and have more miles, so it is expected that ride comfort will be compromised. Considering the shocks on your TSX are about 10yrs old and have 124k mi, I would change them.
What brand of sway bar link do you have? Look beefy. Thanks
These are Moog brand. They are a little beefier compared to the OEM links. I bought them on amazon. The OEM links cost about 3x more than these aftermarket links.
Hows it goin man, I had a question about the bumpstops. I want to install some Konis with some eibach lowering springs, but I heard you need to cut your oem bumpstops? Is this true? And if so by how much? Thanks!
My first aftermarket setup on this car was Koni Yellows with Eibach pro kit. I did not install them myself, I had a shop do it for me and over time I realized they did not put the stock bump stocks back on. I had no bump stops which was terrible as the car would bottom out and it was loud. So I installed KYB bump stops and the car would bottom out on the bump stops easily. It was annoying but not really a safety concern. I ended up cutting the KYB bump stops in half and that was better. You can leave the full OEM bump stop on and if you don't like it and need to cut it, lift the front of the car, remove the wheels and you should have access to the bump stops. Just cut them with a long metal blade that goes on a metal cutting hand saw. The issues you will run into with going low is scraping of the engine splash shield, if you still have it, consider it gone, even the part that covers the wheel wells. I also had issues with the exhaust flex pipe getting damaged, so get ready to hear the exhaust leaks.
@@ChavezDIY Thanks for the reply. Is the eibach pro kit really that low? It says its about 1.5” which I thought would be pretty modest.
@@eptv3644 I currently have H&R springs and the drop is less and more comfortable for all around driving. The problem with dropping that car is that the exhaust downpipe sticks out from under the car. When you look under the car you can see the exhaust downpipe. Your exhaust won't hit everywhere, but eventually you will hit something.
@@ChavezDIY ahh ok. Do you recommend the H&Rs over some Teins?
@@eptv3644 I've never used Tein. They are next on my list of springs to try.
👍
😎👍🏻
So you tighten the strut bolt in middle of the mount all the way down the thread of the new strut?
You must be referring to the nut that threads into the center of the top mount. The OEM manual says to torque the nut down to 22ft lbs (if I remember correctly). My goal was 22ft lbs but it just bottoms out without reaching 22ft lbs. I'm using aftermarket KYB shock/dampers and H&R lowering springs and that may be why it bottoms out for me? Maybe it actually reaches 22ft lbs using OEM dampers and OEM springs without bottoming out, I don't know. That's the problem with buying aftermarket products, the installation may be different from OEM and things don't function per the OEM manual. I viewed some videos on the KYB youtube channel and they said to thread the nut down until the rubber bushings just start to bulge. I did that the first time I installed the shocks and they were too loose and I had noises coming from the shock mounts. I think the sweet spot is in between bottoming out the nut and when it starts to bulge. I might aim for 22ft lbs next time and then back it out a lil.
How high do I have to lift it with the floor jack before tightening it?
The manual doesn't specify but I lift until it bottoms out and the whole car starts to lift, then I stop and tighten it down.
@@ChavezDIY Thank you
The reason your torque wrench didn't get to 22 ft-lbs is due to the fact that you were using a crows foot wrench, which changes the torque ratio for your torque wrench (kind of like a gear ratio). The required input torque at the torque wrench would be less than 22 ft-lbs to achieve 22 ft-lbs at the nut.
Thanks for the feedback! I will look into that and see how the crow's foot attachment changes torque. I have read people say that socket extensions also change the torque, but in my own tests I find the difference negligible and sometimes no difference.
@@ChavezDIY I agree, socket extension should have very little affect on a torque wrench.
5:35 i can’t get that bolt to go in how did you do it so easily?
The long lower bolt on the damper fork? First put the lower bolt in before putting in the upper bolt. That gives you enough room to wiggle the damper fork to align the holes. When the holes are aligned, push the bolt in with your palm and wiggle it if needed. Sometimes I tap in the bolt using a wrench, but only if the bolt has passed through the first hole and it gets stuck and doesn't want to come out the other end.
@@ChavezDIY no the one on the top. Idk why I am struggling so much to put it in I did it so easily on the passenger side. I might have threaded the bolt on accident.
@@DR-UTAH ok. so the bolt makes contact with the threads in the hole but it won't thread in?
@@ChavezDIY it screws in like about 35% in and then it gets really hard to put in. And if you try putting it in with an impact it stays in that same spot even with a wrench.
@@DR-UTAH check and clean the threads on the bolt and the hole. Use brake cleaner and a rag if you have some. If a thread is damaged on the bolt you might need to use a small file to fix it.
Is the process going to work for 2nd gen tsx? thanks.
I can't confirm because I don't own that car. Here is the manual the second generation TSX, feel free too look in there and see if its the same. drive.google.com/file/d/1INd61Wkrl0WYQ_I9MDH1ccLjnV4n1wyd/view