Completely agree on the handling of screws and electric screwdrivers, especially in plastic. I also do the counterclockwise "click"-turn to assure it goes in properly and not grinding a new thread, which often damages the plastic. It's all about the feel in the fingers!
I was lost at the end until I realized that they were SMARTer than me pluggers ...... Great fix Mon Ami ...... Me personally I would have changed that one other cap also, it might be on it's way out too...... Maybe you had thought about it and didn't have that one in your parts box.... Take Care Mon Ami....
Nice one Mick. The bare Aluminium cans I think were Polymer caps they are very robust and have high ripple current ratings and low ESR. I also am not a fan of electric screw drivers, and have always reversed screws in plastic to feel the thread, not sure where I learnt that maybe my father but I have done so for as long as I can remember and I am 65+ and still repairing every day. Keep the vids coming.
Just on your manual screw driver, I recently had a “professional” out to service my water heater and he stripped out three threads (of 8) with his professional battery powered zuuun clack tarrrr gun. I could have done that. Sometimes slower is faster. 🤠
Nice video thanks. Couple of things. The TP link network management app ( windows) gives you the option to turn off the LED's ! if wanted. Also the power line adapters don't like power extensions ( presumably ones that have surge protection or the like) Or course in the configuration you used they will talk to each other no problem.
Like others, it’s a great tip on screwing back into plastic, I’ve tried to tell my kids that as a ‘Dad’ tip for later life, but not sure they are interested. On a separate note, you always look like you are wearing lovely jumpers Mick 😊
I understand what you mean about cordless screwdrivers BUT wow stick and things like it are low torque electric screwdrivers that are perfect for electronics applications. From a repair perspective, a bulging capacitor makes me smile.
I agree with you with the power driver. I also do turn the screw backwards to have it drop into the threads, then hit the power switch. Oldest trick in the book LOL. Nice to see you using it how my dad taught me 1000 years ago. LOL
Hi. I have fixed a few powerline adapters over the years and one of the things to avoid when taking them apart is the main filter capacitor/s. They can hold a high charge for a long time I found, as I have been "bitten" on more than one occasion. Tou should always discharge them before handling the pcb.
Nice fix. When servicing any switch mode power supply its worth changing the small electrolytic on the primary side which runs the IC. This usually fails high ESR and stops it starting up. It could be a case of when you first plugged it in the ESR was too high for it to start and as its warmed up a little its been enough to kick up and self run. This is why you get the “takes a while to come on but works once warmed up” fault symptom
I repaired my older version AV600 TPlink powerline adapter, but at that time it was the wifi unit. Failed capacitor caused a loud hissing noise. Has been working great since replaced. Thank you for sharing! ♥
Just as an aside to the repair job (nice as always) - did you know that the way powerline works "behind the scenes" is actually very similar to DSL - the same technlogoy that brought us internet over our copper phone lines for years past! Not quite the same, obviously, accounting for mains power and stuff - but a very similar concept technically. Fun facts!
I don't particularly like network powerline adapters but nice fix. Sometimes they're the only solution but mostly there are much better ways. These days mesh networks have pretty much made them obsolete.
Agree. I don't use them myself. I've ran cables pretty much everywhere around the house with 3 routers meshed up. Also got another router in the barn with a POE switch to run some CCTV cameras.
Anytime I'm dealing with screws and plastic I automatically reverse the screw to (feel) the "click" before screwing down, sometimes you can't hear it click. Nice fix brother, easy and smooth. Capacitors....tell me it ain't so😉 Great video, thanks for the work mate. See ya next time.
Ah, so the owner diagnosed the fault but was too tight to buy replacement caps, in return you used pre-used ones to fix, a master stroke.🤣🤣🤣🤣 Great vid
I'm not sure about that, he said I could have them and he had to pay for postage. I'm not sure about the blown resistors / diodes as everything seemed fine 🤷♂️
One comment on replacing caps with a higher voltage rating: make sure that increased leakage isn't going to cause an issue with the circuit and for best results stick somewhere near the original. It may be tempting to slap a 100V working cap in place of a 10V but it could cause problems that have nothing to do with the capacitance (I realise that is an extreme example, a 100V cap probably wouldn't fit, but characteristics other than capacitance and voltage rating can be important).Edit: the trick with the silicone tubing also preserves the end of the sucker tip so it is worthwhile - mine fell off years ago and I just didn't replace it, so you could drive a bus down the orifice now as the Teflon does mushroom out over time.
I tried using them at home in Sweden. The issue is that we have three phase supply to everything, apartments included and they are really wonky if you try to have a connection between two outlets on different phases. Mine went back to the store, but nice bit of kit either way!
These devices definitely seem to be very hard on electrolytics - those secondary side caps always seem to fail no matter what the brand of adaptor - I guess a combination of being on 24/7, inadequate ventilation and using inferior caps takes its toll on them. Unfortunately I've found that the failed caps often cause knock-on effects downstream which ends up blowing silicon. Yes I get through quite a few of these, living in a large, old house where getting network cabling around the place would be expensive! I think the second adaptor has polymer caps on the secondary side - these shouldn't fail in theory.
10:03 - People who work very often with laptops and those screws use some pretty good/smart electric screw drivers for laptops, buttons and even motion to start screwing/unscrewing, fine tune for speed, torque etc...
I’m with you Mick , anything I do electricity I use hand screwdrivers . Also same goes for door hardware or anything that strips easily. So much better control with hand tools .
regarding the teflon tube. Teflon starts to disintegrate at 245C, and the fumes are very toxic. If you have any birds in the same room, the fumes will kill them.
I have an electric screwdriver at work for phone repair , has torque settings and is thin enough to be used as a normal screwdriver for starting off. I could not do without it as today I did 6 samsung repairs and each one has up 15-25 screws. If you doing 120+ tiny screws a day you praise the day they were invented 😂.
It's the months of caps!! Isn't it Mick? LOL! Sure glad you got that Peak. Don't like to repeat myself over and over, but always check the stupid caps first, then go on. Just my opinion, from my own experience. Probably make some pretty boring vids though? LOL.
😂😂😂Yes, the peak is very useful! Yeah I wasn't sure how well this video would do as it was a fairly simple one. It's still probably useful to people who have these and they have stopped working as they can potentially repair them now if they didn't know how to.
Well done 👍Yes, I'd imagine there will be quite a few of these with the same issue. Hopefully some people might see this video and have a go and repair them, saves money, and them going into landfill..
when I was a kid my father taught me to back off screws to ensure they don’t cross thread etc…….many years later he saw me doing that and asked me: why the heck are you doing that 😅
10:54 I am fairly certain that you can see the power LED for a moment in the video when you first tested it after the repair. Its just difficult to see in the lights.
Well done on the first one. More bad caps of course, doesn't it ever make you wonder if failing caps are intentional in order to shorten the life of the devices and so sell more? They are such an incredibly common point of failure in all kinds of electronic devices. Or are manufacturers choosing unsuitable caps for the application and driving them too hard? Or perhaps the caps are simply cheap ones of an inferior quality. Makes you wonder .........
Thanks 👍I think the issue is these switch mode supplies hammer the capacitors at high frequencies. You never used to get this too often with old school linear power supplies.
@@BuyitFixit Actually, you did but at 100Hz the ripple wasn't always a huge problem in analogue equipment. I had an Amstrad SRD400 for repair in the 90s and the huge reservoir caps were bulging and oozing (next to the hot transformer and bridge rectifier) but they weren't causing the fault.
The capacitor plauge started in the mid 90's - the fact that caps are still failing in the exact same way today comes down to plain planned obsolescence - there's no way the issue with the electrolyte hasn't been fixed in 30 years! They use cheap caps so they fail on purpose now, and most people chuck the thing out and buy another one
Could be the case, but also we're using switch mode power supplies a lot more now too. The higher frequencies involved put a lot more strain on the output capacitors than and old style linear power supplies.
@@BuyitFixit But if you use Nichicon, Rubycon, United Chemicon, or Panasonic caps, they last a very long time (many decades) even in switching power supplies. If you look at commercial or industrial equipment, they always use good brand caps in the power supplies. It's always the off-brand caps that fail in 2 to 4 years - I'm quite sure they do that on purpose in consumer goods.
Although quality is a factor, most failures are related to poor design. A good design has a multi-stage filter in the flyback feedback, ceramics to suppress the higher frequency noise and electrolytics for the lower frequency surges, coupled by an inductor stage. Unfortunately, most data sheets and application notes don't show these (and, of course, device costs would increase)..
@@fu1r4 Still nearly a decade old. I'm surprised it was that old. I would have thought about 3 years or so. Depends on then quality of the caps I guess.
I've got Ethernet cables running all over here and multiple routers and switches as it's quite a large house.I've even got some going underground from the house to the barns (about 75M) for the CCTV and WiFi access points.
😂😂😂I've had a few 'belts' in my time.. I'm usually pretty careful, although I did get caught out a few months back by a motor startup cap after I briefly connected it to start a motor and forgot it was charged up.
@ Oh daynmm, be careful mate. I like your content. Keep it up. I got shocked on an open loop of mains tungsten fairy lights it was open circuit got zapped as the light bulbs acted as a dead short compared to my body resistance. Bloody hell it was a lesson learnt, I was young too. 🤣😂
@ it’s more that the Ham radio these day have very sensitive Front ends and if your trying to hear week stations thousands of kilometres away any unnecessary QRM you can eliminate the better. Yeh there may only ad 1 to 2 s points from the neighbours but if every one of your neighbours have them and you happen to be in a condensed neighbourhood it all adds up, and the week station just get drowned out by the QRM.
Fair enough. I live pretty much in the middle of nowhere, and have difficulty getting out on 10W. The nearest neighbours are over 1/4 mile away. I've only managed to have a QSO with digital modes so far, although I did manage to hit Antartica with WSPR when I tried a year or so ago before my DX Commander antenna got destroyed by the wind and the horses in the field 😂😂
I have trouble getting anywhere on 10w where I live in a valley, our nearest neighbours are 1/4 mile away so even if I was planning on using these (I've already got ethernet all through the house and underground to the outbuildings and barn) I doubt they would affect much around here..
It don't usually call them that, don't know why I did on this occasion. I usually call them network or Ethernet cables. I find it quite hard to talk / think and do stuff at the same time while recording on camera.
Powerline is electronic pollution of the environment. It uses frequency bands that are exclusive to other users and the cabling in the house acts as an antenna. Better use WiFi only.
Completely agree on the handling of screws and electric screwdrivers, especially in plastic. I also do the counterclockwise "click"-turn to assure it goes in properly and not grinding a new thread, which often damages the plastic. It's all about the feel in the fingers!
Good to know i'm not the only person who feels for the original thread
@@Andy-fd5fg Yes, compassion is underrated in tech.
always
I do it at home but not at work, because mended twice is enough for an industrial setting.
I was lost at the end until I realized that they were SMARTer than me pluggers ...... Great fix Mon Ami ...... Me personally I would have changed that one other cap also, it might be on it's way out too...... Maybe you had thought about it and didn't have that one in your parts box.... Take Care Mon Ami....
Cheers Cajun, no I forgot about the other one (bootstrap capacitor) I should probably have checked it.
Nice one Mick.
The bare Aluminium cans I think were Polymer caps they are very robust and have high ripple current ratings and low ESR.
I also am not a fan of electric screw drivers, and have always reversed screws in plastic to feel the thread, not sure where I learnt that maybe my father but I have done so for as long as I can remember and I am 65+ and still repairing every day.
Keep the vids coming.
Cheers mate 👍
Great to see more electronic equipment saved from the e-waste. How I despair of this throw away culture.
Thanks Ralph 👍yes me too. I try to save as much as I can from the landfill. Even if I've no use for it I can always Ebay it or donate it to charity.
Just on your manual screw driver, I recently had a “professional” out to service my water heater and he stripped out three threads (of 8) with his professional battery powered zuuun clack tarrrr gun.
I could have done that. Sometimes slower is faster. 🤠
@@DavoShed Damn, and very true 👍
Nice video thanks. Couple of things. The TP link network management app ( windows) gives you the option to turn off the LED's ! if wanted. Also the power line adapters don't like power extensions ( presumably ones that have surge protection or the like) Or course in the configuration you used they will talk to each other no problem.
Good to know,! I use surge protection power extensions on a lot of things!
@@MikeyMack303 I found out the hard way and then read the manual 🙂
Cheers 👍Yes they "transmit" frequencies down the copper wiring of the house, so a surge protector could filter those out.
Like others, it’s a great tip on screwing back into plastic, I’ve tried to tell my kids that as a ‘Dad’ tip for later life, but not sure they are interested. On a separate note, you always look like you are wearing lovely jumpers Mick 😊
😂😂😂Thanks mate 👍
I understand what you mean about cordless screwdrivers BUT wow stick and things like it are low torque electric screwdrivers that are perfect for electronics applications. From a repair perspective, a bulging capacitor makes me smile.
Thanks Shaun, I'll have a look at "wow sticks" see what comes up, hopefully nothing explicit 😂😂😂
I agree with you with the power driver. I also do turn the screw backwards to have it drop into the threads, then hit the power switch. Oldest trick in the book LOL. Nice to see you using it how my dad taught me 1000 years ago. LOL
Cheers Fred 👍
Hi. I have fixed a few powerline adapters over the years and one of the things to avoid when taking them apart is the main filter capacitor/s. They can hold a high charge for a long time I found, as I have been "bitten" on more than one occasion. Tou should always discharge them before handling the pcb.
Thanks for the heads up! I too have been bitten quite a few times over the years 😂😂😂👍
Nice easy fix for you on this one.
Yes 👍🙂
Nice fix.
When servicing any switch mode power supply its worth changing the small electrolytic on the primary side which runs the IC. This usually fails high ESR and stops it starting up. It could be a case of when you first plugged it in the ESR was too high for it to start and as its warmed up a little its been enough to kick up and self run. This is why you get the “takes a while to come on but works once warmed up” fault symptom
Thanks 👍yes had that bootstrap cap fail on a few other SMPS like the fire alarm supply I looked at.
It isn't always the capacitors, but it is really, certainly in modern stuff.
Yes, it's mainly because SMPS run at high frequencies, and the output caps get hammered 👍
Great job, Mick. Always look foeward to a Saturday Night, when your video drops. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Brian 👍
I repaired my older version AV600 TPlink powerline adapter, but at that time it was the wifi unit. Failed capacitor caused a loud hissing noise. Has been working great since replaced. Thank you for sharing! ♥
Thanks 👍and well done on repairing yours 🙂
these videos are addictive great job keep them coming 👍
Thanks, will do!
Just as an aside to the repair job (nice as always) - did you know that the way powerline works "behind the scenes" is actually very similar to DSL - the same technlogoy that brought us internet over our copper phone lines for years past! Not quite the same, obviously, accounting for mains power and stuff - but a very similar concept technically. Fun facts!
Thank you and thanks for sharing 👍
I don't particularly like network powerline adapters but nice fix. Sometimes they're the only solution but mostly there are much better ways. These days mesh networks have pretty much made them obsolete.
Agree. I don't use them myself. I've ran cables pretty much everywhere around the house with 3 routers meshed up. Also got another router in the barn with a POE switch to run some CCTV cameras.
Anytime I'm dealing with screws and plastic I automatically reverse the screw to (feel) the "click" before screwing down, sometimes you can't hear it click. Nice fix brother, easy and smooth. Capacitors....tell me it ain't so😉 Great video, thanks for the work mate. See ya next time.
Cheers Terry 👍
The capacitors strike again😂; nice repair.
😂😂Yes, Cheers 👍
Ah, so the owner diagnosed the fault but was too tight to buy replacement caps, in return you used pre-used ones to fix, a master stroke.🤣🤣🤣🤣 Great vid
I'm not sure about that, he said I could have them and he had to pay for postage. I'm not sure about the blown resistors / diodes as everything seemed fine 🤷♂️
One comment on replacing caps with a higher voltage rating: make sure that increased leakage isn't going to cause an issue with the circuit and for best results stick somewhere near the original. It may be tempting to slap a 100V working cap in place of a 10V but it could cause problems that have nothing to do with the capacitance (I realise that is an extreme example, a 100V cap probably wouldn't fit, but characteristics other than capacitance and voltage rating can be important).Edit: the trick with the silicone tubing also preserves the end of the sucker tip so it is worthwhile - mine fell off years ago and I just didn't replace it, so you could drive a bus down the orifice now as the Teflon does mushroom out over time.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Well done Mick great fix as usual 😀
Thanks 👍
Powerline is an interesting technique. Nice easy fix !
Cheers 👍
As always, an excellent problem solving video. Thank You.
Thank you too 👍
Always a good sign to find Nichicon caps in a device. Probably no shock that the failed caps were from a different country of origin.
I tried using them at home in Sweden. The issue is that we have three phase supply to everything, apartments included and they are really wonky if you try to have a connection between two outlets on different phases. Mine went back to the store, but nice bit of kit either way!
Yes, they only work on the same phase 👍
A phase coupler can help. It has to be installed into the distribution box.
@@e1woqf Thanks, yeah I saw that it was available. But the convenience and reasonable price went out the window with that one :)
Great job, mate, Well done.👍👍
Thanks 👍
Nice fix pretty cool thanks a lot 🤩
@@jacqueschaillet7913 Cheers 👍
That must have been a challenge Mick 😂😂.
I must get one of those ESR meters too.👍👍
😂😂Cheers Darren 👍
@@BuyitFixit i also do the same as you with regards to screwing technique… sounds a bit rude i know 😂😂
😂😂😂
These devices definitely seem to be very hard on electrolytics - those secondary side caps always seem to fail no matter what the brand of adaptor - I guess a combination of being on 24/7, inadequate ventilation and using inferior caps takes its toll on them.
Unfortunately I've found that the failed caps often cause knock-on effects downstream which ends up blowing silicon. Yes I get through quite a few of these, living in a large, old house where getting network cabling around the place would be expensive!
I think the second adaptor has polymer caps on the secondary side - these shouldn't fail in theory.
I think it's just SMPS in general because of the higher frequencies involved they seem to hammer the output caps just after the rectifier diode.
10:03 - People who work very often with laptops and those screws use some pretty good/smart electric screw drivers for laptops, buttons and even motion to start screwing/unscrewing, fine tune for speed, torque etc...
Interesting. Thanks for sharing 👍
" THERE ARE FOUR LIGHTS !! " not sure anybody will get that, but it's all I got today LOL ! Great work.
Don't worry, it went through my head too 😂
@@Firecul :)
Fork handles,,.. no… four candles.
I had been thinking that but I wasn't sure if that's what Andymouse meant 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit I was referring to Jean Luc Picard when he was captured by the Cardassians ! Lol.. Thats confused it even more !! :)
Great job friend.
Thanks 👍
As always,,,, FASCINATING!!!! 🙏🙏👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I have repaired earlier model tp links with failed caps. But it was a yellow polyester one in that case.
Interesting, thanks for sharing 👍
Well done
Cheers 👍
Grand fix cheers 👍👍
Cheers 👍
Thanks 👍
Nice work, Mick. Your videos keep me enthused to try repairing things that most people would discard!
Cheers Mikey 👍
I’m with you Mick , anything I do electricity I use hand screwdrivers . Also same goes for door hardware or anything that strips easily. So much better control with hand tools .
Yes, agree Jesse 👍🙂
Nice fix. Perhaps Michael saw the red glue on the 105 resistors and thought they had leaked? 04:50
Thanks 👍hmm possibly.
@@BuyitFixit Have you came across a transistor that isn't shorted but leaks current? I'd appreciate your insight 'Green light stays on fault'.
Yes, I have came across that before, also transistors that have gone open or high resistance between the base and collector for instance.
regarding the teflon tube. Teflon starts to disintegrate at 245C, and the fumes are very toxic. If you have any birds in the same room, the fumes will kill them.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing 👍
I have an electric screwdriver at work for phone repair , has torque settings and is thin enough to be used as a normal screwdriver for starting off. I could not do without it as today I did 6 samsung repairs and each one has up 15-25 screws. If you doing 120+ tiny screws a day you praise the day they were invented 😂.
Nice 👍May I ask what make model?
@@BuyitFixit Out of office for my day off , ill check monday It's a Xiaomi something something.
It's the months of caps!! Isn't it Mick? LOL! Sure glad you got that Peak. Don't like to repeat myself over and over, but always check the stupid caps first, then go on.
Just my opinion, from my own experience. Probably make some pretty boring vids though? LOL.
😂😂😂Yes, the peak is very useful! Yeah I wasn't sure how well this video would do as it was a fairly simple one. It's still probably useful to people who have these and they have stopped working as they can potentially repair them now if they didn't know how to.
Seems like this might be a common fault with these - I did exactly the same repair on our set a couple of months ago!
Well done 👍Yes, I'd imagine there will be quite a few of these with the same issue. Hopefully some people might see this video and have a go and repair them, saves money, and them going into landfill..
Maybe use the tapered cap to a tube of silicone caulk? That would let you choose the opening size at the tip.
when I was a kid my father taught me to back off screws to ensure they don’t cross thread etc…….many years later he saw me doing that and asked me: why the heck are you doing that 😅
😂😂😂😂
Heya, nice and easy repair
Yes,occasionally I do get them😂😂😂👍
Nice fix 😊
Cheers 👍
The capacitor replacement channel 😂
😂😂😂😂👍
You should try 'ENGINEER SS 02 Solder Sucker'.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've just ordered one to try it out 👍
@@BuyitFixit Great. you'll not be disappointed 👍
10:54 I am fairly certain that you can see the power LED for a moment in the video when you first tested it after the repair. Its just difficult to see in the lights.
Possibly, and I may have not given it enough time to boot? Seems a bit of a strange one 🤷♂️
TP-Link? That automatically translates to Toilet Paper Link to me. That would be an interesting way to distribute Ethernet for sure.
Yes, not the highest quality devices, but they seemed not to be too badly built.
Well done on the first one.
More bad caps of course, doesn't it ever make you wonder if failing caps are intentional in order to shorten the life of the devices and so sell more? They are such an incredibly common point of failure in all kinds of electronic devices.
Or are manufacturers choosing unsuitable caps for the application and driving them too hard?
Or perhaps the caps are simply cheap ones of an inferior quality.
Makes you wonder .........
Thanks 👍I think the issue is these switch mode supplies hammer the capacitors at high frequencies. You never used to get this too often with old school linear power supplies.
@@BuyitFixit Actually, you did but at 100Hz the ripple wasn't always a huge problem in analogue equipment. I had an Amstrad SRD400 for repair in the 90s and the huge reservoir caps were bulging and oozing (next to the hot transformer and bridge rectifier) but they weren't causing the fault.
@@BuyitFixit I do agree, but caps are also a common point of failure elsewhere in circuits of all types.
Good work 🍻🍻
Cheers 👍
Nice one
Cheers 👍🙂
What do these devices do, repeat wifi through the AC line?
Yes, or Ethernet, or both 👍
👍
🙂👍
Nice fix Mick 👍🏼... am I the first comment? haha
Cheers mate😂😂😂No, there's a couple before you..
@@BuyitFixit I'm always one minute late 😂😂
👍👍
👍👍🙂
The capacitor plauge started in the mid 90's - the fact that caps are still failing in the exact same way today comes down to plain planned obsolescence - there's no way the issue with the electrolyte hasn't been fixed in 30 years! They use cheap caps so they fail on purpose now, and most people chuck the thing out and buy another one
Could be the case, but also we're using switch mode power supplies a lot more now too. The higher frequencies involved put a lot more strain on the output capacitors than and old style linear power supplies.
@@BuyitFixit But if you use Nichicon, Rubycon, United Chemicon, or Panasonic caps, they last a very long time (many decades) even in switching power supplies. If you look at commercial or industrial equipment, they always use good brand caps in the power supplies. It's always the off-brand caps that fail in 2 to 4 years - I'm quite sure they do that on purpose in consumer goods.
Although quality is a factor, most failures are related to poor design. A good design has a multi-stage filter in the flyback feedback, ceramics to suppress the higher frequency noise and electrolytics for the lower frequency surges, coupled by an inductor stage. Unfortunately, most data sheets and application notes don't show these (and, of course, device costs would increase)..
what if you connect it on two different phases?
I don't think that they would work. They need to be on the same circuit.
Hi 😊
Hello 😊
@ When someone greets you, you should also greet them :)
Great but simple repair! I really enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing.
Paul, USA!!!
Thanks Paul 👍🙂
Fixing PowerLine adapters: keeping the connection alive, one spark of genius at a time!
😂😂Cheers 👍
A classic "capacitors" xD , is it better to put 105c capacitor instead of 85c , in my logic it will last much longer .. right ?
Yes, I would usually put 105c in 👍
Brilliant fix mick, I have two tplink Wi-Fi boosters, just waiting for them to fail so I can fix them lol
Keep em coming 😊
Cheers Gary 👍
Manufacture date 2015 and already bulging capacitors ...
@@fu1r4 Still nearly a decade old. I'm surprised it was that old. I would have thought about 3 years or so. Depends on then quality of the caps I guess.
might have been easier to install a wired connection for the end user, and I’m not being unserious
I've got Ethernet cables running all over here and multiple routers and switches as it's quite a large house.I've even got some going underground from the house to the barns (about 75M) for the CCTV and WiFi access points.
Wouldn’t have the balls to touch that live board even from low voltage side
😂😂😂I've had a few 'belts' in my time.. I'm usually pretty careful, although I did get caught out a few months back by a motor startup cap after I briefly connected it to start a motor and forgot it was charged up.
@ Oh daynmm, be careful mate. I like your content. Keep it up. I got shocked on an open loop of mains tungsten fairy lights it was open circuit got zapped as the light bulbs acted as a dead short compared to my body resistance. Bloody hell it was a lesson learnt, I was young too. 🤣😂
Aren’t most screwdrivers cordless?? 😉🤣
😂😂😂😂👍Very true
Cordless drivers are no good when you're fixing vintage gear with brittle plastic!
Agree 👍
Dude, you left electrolyte all over the front of the board.
I think that was varnish on the transformer, if that's what you meant.
Horrible things, wipes out the ham HF Bands. Booo!!
Would they have that much RF power?
@ it’s more that the Ham radio these day have very sensitive Front ends and if your trying to hear week stations thousands of kilometres away any unnecessary QRM you can eliminate the better. Yeh there may only ad 1 to 2 s points from the neighbours but if every one of your neighbours have them and you happen to be in a condensed neighbourhood it all adds up, and the week station just get drowned out by the QRM.
Fair enough. I live pretty much in the middle of nowhere, and have difficulty getting out on 10W. The nearest neighbours are over 1/4 mile away. I've only managed to have a QSO with digital modes so far, although I did manage to hit Antartica with WSPR when I tried a year or so ago before my DX Commander antenna got destroyed by the wind and the horses in the field 😂😂
Never repair pioneer or TP link or anything that has powerline in it it’s bad for radio and bad for amateur radio
I have trouble getting anywhere on 10w where I live in a valley, our nearest neighbours are 1/4 mile away so even if I was planning on using these (I've already got ethernet all through the house and underground to the outbuildings and barn) I doubt they would affect much around here..
O please don't say "an internet lead".
It don't usually call them that, don't know why I did on this occasion. I usually call them network or Ethernet cables. I find it quite hard to talk / think and do stuff at the same time while recording on camera.
Powerline is electronic pollution of the environment. It uses frequency bands that are exclusive to other users and the cabling in the house acts as an antenna. Better use WiFi only.
You are correct, but only radio amateurs care.
All of those small wall wart adapters / phone chargers also create quite a bit of interference too.