I was very uneasy with doing this repair myself, but I did it following your instructions. I don't have a lift, so there was a bit of added complication doing it on jack stands. In addition, my axle nut took superhuman amounts of force to break loose, but it was a learning experience. The cv axle wasn't easy to get out either, had to lower the shock just right. The double nut thing took some experimentation as the hand room is very limited. Overall, it was very satisfying to fix. Thanks for the tutorial!
First and foremost..thank you for taking the time to explain and provide detailed explanations for each and every step. Your videos continue to motivate and inspire each one of us that are truly passionate about our C5’s!! Still get the pre game jitters but continue to gain confidence thanks to your hard work. Looking forward to the next one!!
Another must see video for anyone performing the differential leak repair on a C5. Information is provided in a short format that covers all steps needed for a successful repair. Thank you.
I really enjoyed this video series. I never really understand why bolts were torqued and retorqued to a specific degree, so I googled it. Because the friction effect of each bolt varies, the angle the bolt rotates before the installation torque is reached is not constant. Higher friction will cause torque to rise more quickly. Because the angle of rotation is smaller, the bolt tension generated is also proportionally less. This is the theory behind angle control.
Thank you! Agreed - it is all about making sure you get the proper stretch on the bolt so it holds as designed. Too much stretch and it breaks, too little stretch and it will not stay tight. Cheers!!
I just picked up my C5 and before I bought it, I noticed the rear end appears to have a minor leak. I can't wait to be able to start tending to some of the things I've found need some attention. I live in Canada and right now, it's too cold and too wintery to get some work done. This video was great to give me some direction on how to diagnose and fix the leak. Thank you!
Thanks for the vids on this! Looks like reinserting that trans/diff stud was left out… does the double nut technique work to get it back in? What do you torque it to?
Just out of curiosity, do you need to clean and prep with the prep spray on the actual differential housing or is it just the cover? As with all your videos I appreciate your attention to detail and watching them has taught me lots of things and how to do some things better and correctly. Look forward to more to come.
Both would probably be best, I just do the covers though because it's not really practical to try to mask everything off properly on the actual differential housing. Appreciate the kind words!
Thanks for the reply over on part 1 video sir. Another question over here: the reinstall of the stud is edited out of this video. Before or after the torqueing of the cover bolts? I would imagine it would compress the seal on one side if you torqued it too much. Just a little snug after torqueing the cover down?
So double nut technique just wouldn't give enough grip on the stud. But a country boy can survive. Used a 20" drill bit extension to drill through the nut and stud together. Pinned the nut to the stud. Broke the stud loose then removed the pin/nut and spun out the stud.
Thank you so much for your detailed video and explanation. It is very much appreciated. Just one question/observation. I noticed on each of the 1-quart containers of Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS, it says in smaller lettering Limited Slip Friction Modifier Included. With this modifier included, is also necessary to add the 4 oz of AC Delco Limited Slip Axle Lubricant?
Thanks for the videos, as always! I see mine has inquired a leak and is most likely this, but I still haven't gone underneath yet to confirm. So, question for us people without a lift. Is it possible to remove the left exhaust on a 3-ton jack stands on highest level?
Beautiful attention to detail. I am surprised GM just didn't make a gasket for 2 secondary protection, instead of using that gel... I can pretty much assure you most mechanic shops are not going to be as detailed as you are. Do you own a shop, are you an engineer by trade? Great Work...👍
Thank you for the kind words sir! I agree a fair number of shops would just whip it together and hope it comes out good. I just take a ton of pride in my work, enjoy the process and hate to do things twice!!!
Thank you for another excellent video. Your videos are really helpful. I have some questions: 1. Do you put any kind of lubricant on the axle splines that go through the wheel bearing to minimize rust? 2. I noticed that you torqued the axle nut to 118 lbs-ft as specified in the service manual. I have read that this specification was changed to 160 lbs-ft and then changed again to 140 lbs-ft with Loctite 272. Do you have any information about that? Thank you.
Hi there - thanks for the comment! 1. If the splines already have enough oil/grease left on them I leave them as is. If they looked dry I would smear a very light coat of grease on them to keep rust away. 2. I had not heard about the revision(s) to the service GM Service Manual. That unfortunately is not uncommon... I will have to look into it further. Also, the axle nuts are one time use only so by using a new one - that should help quite a bit to ensure they stay tight. I suspect many re-use the nut (it doesn't seem like a big deal) and I would think that may well account for some cases of them coming loose.
Have you ever had someone tell you that a little whine from the diff is normal? I had a shop install a 3.42 diff into my automatic car and they said it was normal to make a little noise.
I don't see any reason why 3:42's shouldn't be as quiet as your previous gears. Does it make the noise on acceleration, on coasting / deceleration, or all the time?
There is a little that gets in that area - but your are correct - there is a cutout there so it gets much less surface area. Did you just finish yours?
fwiw - Mobil 1 LS 75w90 already has limited slip additives in it (hence the LS in the name). I emailed the Mobil 1 Technical Support Center to 100% confirm, and a Lubricant Technical Support Engineer replied "Do not add anything to our LS 75w90 product - it already has limited slip additives."
I am aware of this but with friends cars I like to be safe than sorry and add it anyways. I will try this on my own car to (since I drive mine very spirited and am always listening for anything unusual while driving) to see if I notice any negative effects at all to be100% sure it works fine. Thanks for the comment!!
You could and most probably do. I feel better about using a Permatex product and knowing it is properly cured by using the surface prep (essentially a cleaner/catalyst for aluminum to aluminum applications. Quite a few folks have not had the repair work over the years and I cannot help but wonder if the GM stuff is missing the surface prep to allow the anaerobic gasket maker to properly cure.
I was very uneasy with doing this repair myself, but I did it following your instructions. I don't have a lift, so there was a bit of added complication doing it on jack stands. In addition, my axle nut took superhuman amounts of force to break loose, but it was a learning experience. The cv axle wasn't easy to get out either, had to lower the shock just right. The double nut thing took some experimentation as the hand room is very limited. Overall, it was very satisfying to fix. Thanks for the tutorial!
Glad it worked out and this was helpful!
Love that you showed us the experiment with the sealant, no one seems to demonstrate things like that in such detail anymore. Thank you.
Thank you!
First and foremost..thank you for taking the time to explain and provide detailed explanations for each and every step. Your videos continue to motivate and inspire each one of us that are truly passionate about our C5’s!! Still get the pre game jitters but continue to gain confidence thanks to your hard work. Looking forward to the next one!!
Appreciate the kind words and glad you enjoy them! Thanks for taking the time to let me know!
Another must see video for anyone performing the differential leak repair on a C5. Information is provided in a short format that covers all steps needed for a successful repair. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful sir thanks for the comment!!
You're one smart feller. Great job as usual. Very thorough and no nonsense.
I appreciate that!
Your videos are a great catalogue for how to do things well on a corvette.
Glad you like them!
I really enjoyed this video series. I never really understand why bolts were torqued and retorqued to a specific degree, so I googled it.
Because the friction effect of each bolt varies, the angle the bolt rotates before the installation torque is reached is not constant. Higher friction will cause torque to rise more quickly. Because the angle of rotation is smaller, the bolt tension generated is also proportionally less. This is the theory behind angle control.
Thank you! Agreed - it is all about making sure you get the proper stretch on the bolt so it holds as designed. Too much stretch and it breaks, too little stretch and it will not stay tight. Cheers!!
Love the explanation for the anaerobic sealer.
Appreciate that!
Great video. Very informative with easy to understand step by step process.
Glad it was helpful!
I just picked up my C5 and before I bought it, I noticed the rear end appears to have a minor leak. I can't wait to be able to start tending to some of the things I've found need some attention. I live in Canada and right now, it's too cold and too wintery to get some work done. This video was great to give me some direction on how to diagnose and fix the leak. Thank you!
I'm not far away from canada, a few more weeks and I'll be pulling mine out of its hibernation too!
Thank you for making a great video. Very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the vids on this! Looks like reinserting that trans/diff stud was left out… does the double nut technique work to get it back in? What do you torque it to?
31 ft-lb for the stud, then 37 ft-lb for the nut onto the stud. GM's document 1826526 gives the torques.
@@Flopsaurus Thanks. I completed this repair last year, so hopefully that's what I torqued it to ;)
Your instructional videos are excellent. I just hope I never have to do it.
I appreciate that!
Just out of curiosity, do you need to clean and prep with the prep spray on the actual differential housing or is it just the cover? As with all your videos I appreciate your attention to detail and watching them has taught me lots of things and how to do some things better and correctly. Look forward to more to come.
Both would probably be best, I just do the covers though because it's not really practical to try to mask everything off properly on the actual differential housing. Appreciate the kind words!
Thanks for the reply over on part 1 video sir. Another question over here: the reinstall of the stud is edited out of this video. Before or after the torqueing of the cover bolts? I would imagine it would compress the seal on one side if you torqued it too much. Just a little snug after torqueing the cover down?
Good point sir, I would torque the stud last after all of the other cover bolts are torqued.
So double nut technique just wouldn't give enough grip on the stud. But a country boy can survive. Used a 20" drill bit extension to drill through the nut and stud together. Pinned the nut to the stud. Broke the stud loose then removed the pin/nut and spun out the stud.
Nice 👍
Fantastic job
Thank you so much for your detailed video and explanation. It is very much appreciated. Just one question/observation. I noticed on each of the 1-quart containers of Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS, it says in smaller lettering Limited Slip Friction Modifier Included. With this modifier included, is also necessary to add the 4 oz of AC Delco Limited Slip Axle Lubricant?
I don't think so, but I do so anyway just to be sure, that's not the best answer in the world.
Thanks for the videos, as always! I see mine has inquired a leak and is most likely this, but I still haven't gone underneath yet to confirm. So, question for us people without a lift. Is it possible to remove the left exhaust on a 3-ton jack stands on highest level?
Unfortunately, probably not - unless you have aftermarket exhaust that has a union behind the axles as well.
Love this series.
Thank you sir!
Excellent video and explanation!
Glad you liked it! Thanks MM27!
Very good information and well done
Thank you kindly!
I don’t own a vette but loved the video!
Wow - thanks for that - I appreciate it!
Beautiful attention to detail. I am surprised GM just didn't make a gasket for 2 secondary protection, instead of using that gel... I can pretty much assure you most mechanic shops are not going to be as detailed as you are. Do you own a shop, are you an engineer by trade? Great Work...👍
Thank you for the kind words sir! I agree a fair number of shops would just whip it together and hope it comes out good. I just take a ton of pride in my work, enjoy the process and hate to do things twice!!!
Thank you for another excellent video. Your videos are really helpful. I have some questions:
1. Do you put any kind of lubricant on the axle splines that go through the wheel bearing to minimize rust?
2. I noticed that you torqued the axle nut to 118 lbs-ft as specified in the service manual. I have read that this specification was changed to 160 lbs-ft and then changed again to 140 lbs-ft with Loctite 272. Do you have any information about that? Thank you.
Hi there - thanks for the comment! 1. If the splines already have enough oil/grease left on them I leave them as is. If they looked dry I would smear a very light coat of grease on them to keep rust away. 2. I had not heard about the revision(s) to the service GM Service Manual. That unfortunately is not uncommon... I will have to look into it further. Also, the axle nuts are one time use only so by using a new one - that should help quite a bit to ensure they stay tight. I suspect many re-use the nut (it doesn't seem like a big deal) and I would think that may well account for some cases of them coming loose.
thanks
Do you work on customers Corvettes C5?
Once in a while - especially if they are local (MN), good corvette people and if it would make for a video that I think viewers would like to see.
@Toys4Life thanks
maybe i missed it but did you also do the axle seals as well? i mean, since everything was already apart…
Absolutely, it's at the very beginning of this particular video.
Hi, how much should this job cost............Ken
Regional (CA the most). I would say around $600 or so. Most important thing make sure you find a good "C5 Guy" to take care of you Corvette!
Have you ever had someone tell you that a little whine from the diff is normal? I had a shop install a 3.42 diff into my automatic car and they said it was normal to make a little noise.
I don't see any reason why 3:42's shouldn't be as quiet as your previous gears. Does it make the noise on acceleration, on coasting / deceleration, or all the time?
@@Toys4Life it varies by speed and throttle input.
Have you seen this happen on the passenger side before? I believe my Z06 has this happening on the passenger side.
have you ruled out the axle seal?
No lube on the o-ring? That's a great way to roll it or tear it.
But I see GM's procedure doesn't call for it either. Strange.
Have to be careful not to contaminate the anaerobic sealer with grease/oil.
Does this wood apply to a 2005 c6 mind is is leaking to
?
Would this be the same for c6 aswell?
I don't think so but I'm not positive.
I noticed where's the stud you can't put gasket maker there ...
There is a little that gets in that area - but your are correct - there is a cutout there so it gets much less surface area. Did you just finish yours?
@@Toys4Life yes I follow you step by step great 👍
Nice, good to hear!
Awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
fwiw - Mobil 1 LS 75w90 already has limited slip additives in it (hence the LS in the name). I emailed the Mobil 1 Technical Support Center to 100% confirm, and a Lubricant Technical Support Engineer replied "Do not add anything to our LS 75w90 product - it already has limited slip additives."
I am aware of this but with friends cars I like to be safe than sorry and add it anyways. I will try this on my own car to (since I drive mine very spirited and am always listening for anything unusual while driving) to see if I notice any negative effects at all to be100% sure it works fine. Thanks for the comment!!
Do you suppose there is a mechanic at shop or dealership that goes to the detail you do? I doubt it.
I am pretty pokey - but I want to make sure it is done right! Thank you for the comment - much appreciated!
How did you know it was the cover leaking and not the axle seal?
1052942 is only $18. Why not just buy that if it’s recommended?
You could and most probably do. I feel better about using a Permatex product and knowing it is properly cured by using the surface prep (essentially a cleaner/catalyst for aluminum to aluminum applications. Quite a few folks have not had the repair work over the years and I cannot help but wonder if the GM stuff is missing the surface prep to allow the anaerobic gasket maker to properly cure.
+1
Thank you!