Thanks. Idk that I would lease again but it's interesting to see where it can be more expensive. Am not sure if the prenegotiated advertised deals are that bad but it would be better to do no money down. Years ago, I did a couple of leases that way. Sage advice though; Great video!
I don't get why the sell price is more important than the monthly payment which is what we ultimately pay? Sell price is just one of the variables and a lower sell price doesn't always translate to a lower monthly payment.😅
Another lease tip if you stay with the same brand try and turn it in a month or 2 before your lease ends to avoid the lease aquisition fee when you turn it in.
I've been leasing for 15 years, and I usually negotiate by monthly payment in order to get the total cost down vs. the cost up from. I do this because I have a monthly budget that I want to be within. Also, I never turn in the car at the end of the lease primarily because I typically have equity in the vehicle and use that money for the next lease. Also, I never had a dealer ask me to purchase an extended warranty because it's a 36-month lease and already under warranty as is. But maybe there are some dealers which are scum bags and try this tactic... Thanks for your videos!
I just talked to some Honda dealers, and might be new at this, but they are buying out leases to keep their supply, so you can let a local dealer give you a buyout price.@@tomslick2058
Thanks to this video and your clear explanations of these factors, I was just able to confidently negotiate with a sales manager who tried very hard to not discuss the total price of the vehicle the bank would pay or the money factor. I was able to get a $1650 discount off of msrp and a significant reduction in the money factor when he came back to me with the new numbers after my initial “not going to work for me response.” Thank you very much for advocating for the buyer and providing such valuable information when the dealers continue to not only squeeze the customer for more money, but attempt to crush them in these transactions.
What do you mean by “the total price of the vehicle that the bank would pay?” Is that 14(a) part of the contract called the agreed upon value of the car? That’s before adding in DMV fees (if not paid as due at lease signing) and acquisition fee which is gross cap cost Total MSRP incl. destination fee.
Hmmm....but what if you have below average or poor credit, can you still ask or demand the dealership for: discounted MSRP, no money down/zero drive off and no extended warranties while meeting your $400-$500/monthly payment goal?
Excellent review, Leasing cars since 2004, have gone over 20 leased vehicle (all luxury cars), never put down ,money ZERO DRIVE OFF. now here is the thing, you have to find the good lease offered by companies, thats the key, most companies at least once a year bring crazy deals on their cars, example I am leasing a 58K Acura MDX Advance for last 2 years and I got that car lease for 396.77, ZERO DRIVE OFF lol go out 80-100 miles to remote town which has a dealer, instead going to yout city dealer, who might be selling tons of cars. remote dealer who doesnt sell much would love to earn your business. tomorrow, I am picking up Subaru Solterra EV MSRP 54K ( Touring model) for zero money down for 329 a month. I made 2 dealer compete each other lol
3 years ago your tips helped me with my lease. But went back this past week and was not successful making a deal. Going back through your videos to hopefully make a deal on Atlas SE w/technology 24. Thanks for making this videos!
My key points, most of which in the video: 1) do the homework on lease specific incentives and the lease money factor from the mfg leasing company before going to the dealership 2) If considering an EV lease, confirm if any available tax credit $s are being fully passed through to the lessee as a cap cost reduction versus being fully or partially held back as profit 3) confirm who the leasing company (lessor) actually is, i.e. make sure there is not a 3rd party leasing company being inserted into the deal, only deal with the mfg's finance company 4) and as illustrated in the video confirm your lease includes GAP as a default item...
not all insurance carriers offer true GAP, for example USAA offers an optional policy item that tries to act like GAP but it is ACV plus a fixed percentage, say +20% which could be much less than total owed.
I have a new business idea. “Professional car lease or purchase negotiators.” For those of you who know the in’s and out’s of car lease/purchase negotiations, you could offer your services to people looking to buy/lease a vehicle but who also may not feel confident in the negotiations. You go in with the customer, sit at the desk with the customer and salesman and you negotiate the best deal for the customer. Charge a reasonable fee of $300 per negotiation for your services, which the customer would feel is money well spent in order to save yourself from getting ripped off. Do you know how many people would sign up for that??? Your welcome!😅
Sadly, this video came 6 days too late for me. I leased a 2023 Mazda CX-5 Turbo. My lease did NOT come with GAP insurance included, so I had to purchase that. In Ohio, GAP insurance is required. I was offered the drive-off option (no money down, blah, blah, blah) and turned it down (stupid in retrospect), put down $2500 (stupid 2.0) and focused on the monthly payment, per another YT video. Luckily, I did not get the extended warranty. After watching this video, I realized how foolish I had been (despite researching the hell out of which car to get and how to negotiate a lease). I've been leasing Hondas for 11 years and wanted a change, so I wasn't a total newbie to the process - and I STILL got screwed. The only good thing is that I love my new vehicle and enjoy driving it a lot. My sales rep kept me there from 1:30-6:00 p.m. during negotiations - it was hot outside, I hadn't eaten in hours, and I was tired - so my defenses were down. I feel like an idiot now. I don't believe they behaved "above board," but I unfortunately signed the contract. I should have walked out of the dealership, like my gut was telling me to, but I didn't. I did receive a Mazda satisfaction survey email - can I complain there? Is there anything I can do to make this less financially painful?
Sorry that deal was frustrating for you. Ford duped me on a Bronco, warranty, 20,000 down. Blah blah blah. Although I am buying the vehicle still a bad deal. Subsequently you can voice your concerns on the survey and write a Google review so others can be aware of there shady tactics. Enjoy your new ride.
@janetperkins9382 I love our CX-5 so far (had it 10 months). The first service call was odd - I'd only had the car 5 months. A sales rep approached me and hustled me to get a NEW CAR! I told him I'd only had my vehicle for a few months and wasn't interested in getting another one until my lease was up. He was very aggressive with me (nice, but pushy), and he gave me his car. I felt like I was being picked up by some creep in a bar - that's how cringy it was! I'd never lease from them again, frankly.
As far as warrenty, the only thing you may consider is a dents, scratches and dings package. They cover dings scrtches and dents (obviously) and wheel damage (curb rash) so that you are not charged for those things at the end, because they can add up. But i would also say, never "return" the lease always trade it in (check and make sure your lease allows this, most do) or put it to another lease. Our last lease was over miles, had a couple dings and scratches, chip in the windsheild etc but the car still had positive equity that went to the new lease - so we didnt pay the dings/dents or return fee or over miles and got $ toward the new lease.
@@superturtle61177 its usually a size issue, dings under 1 inch they let fly, over they penalize, same with scratches. It all depends but you can also schedule your return inspection several weeks in advance of return and correct any issues if its cheaper to correct vs pay the penalty. For dings, PDR guys can really save you, but so can DIY kits - even if you can't get it to the level of PDR you can likely improve a ding enough to fall within spec to not have a penalty.
Can’t you just sell to carmax? I did that, or sell back to same dealer I leased to for almost $5000. Did you shop around dealers or just sell back to one you leased from?
Living in Metro Detroit here , leasing appears to be a simple process since so many qualify either for an employee discount from one of the Big 3 or another type of discount (example - Friends or supplier discount). I leased three Ram trucks between 2016-2020. The invoice showed the employee price (which I got from my dad). I always did absolutely nothing out of pocket. My most recent lease was on a 2023 Jeep Wrangler 4xe. Thanks for the great content !! 👍🏻
Do you want to keep the vehicle? Is the residual in line with the current market value? Can you afford the financing? Is the vehicle expected to be reliable? If yes to all, I would buy.
It's a bit different in the UK. Most leases allow you to put 1 month down minimum (+fees). That said, depending on the deal, putting more down CAN reduce the total amount payable. Agreed, if the car is written off or stolen within that "down payment period" you lose out. The finance company will be paid out by your insurance but YOU will not get that money back or be able to carry it over into another lease. That's the risk you take by putting more down in an attempt to get a better deal over the total term of the lease.
A video on residual values would be fantastic. To me, it seems like the residual value is an arbitrary number. I suspect that certain makes and even models would likely have a higher residual at the end of the lease. It would seem that the higher residual value of a vehicle at the end of the lease would mean that the vehicle has depreciated less than a vehicle with a lower residual value. A Toyota Highlander would have a higher RV vs. say a Ford Edge. One would also think that if the vehicle retains a higher RV at the end of the lease, the lease payments would be less since the car would be worth more at the end of the lease????
Great advice. I would have also discussed the residual value as well. People don't understand that some cars don't lease well and that comes down to the residual set my the manufacturer.
@@paulgyro Cute but certain vehicles lease like shit because the residual starts with a 5X%. People don't understand that you shouldn't even be considering vehicles that lease so poorly you might just be better off financing them.
This is great info. I /am/was looking at trading in my lease and whatever equity I had was going towards the next one. I was told I'm essentially stuck until the end of my lease because leasing companies are giving crazy buyout prices. My leasing bank is Ally and the dealer said we don't deal with them because their lease buy out numbers to dealers are about 20% more than the truck is worth.
I feel your pain. I also am a victim of the “captive” Ally lease. Never again, will I take an Ally lease. I don’t care if the payment is lower. I loved Honda leases because they wouldn’t charge a dealer crazy fees for buying the car. Only six payments left, which is a silver lining.
“Fair Deal.” What a loaded phrase. What makes any price fair? For decades now, my attitude has been that if the dealership loses money on one deal during the year, I want it to be mine. Fairness doesn’t apply here. It is a competition. I want to do better than the the dealer. But, the dealer has many advantages. Most significantly, they have a much better understanding of Supply and Demand in this market for this week than any customer can have. Still, the best defense is to focus on the OTD price. And don’t be emotional.
Another key to leasing: go the message boards at Edmunds and find out the posted program rate (money factor) for the lease you want (length/miles/zip code). Then you will know how much the dealer is marking up the finance charge and be able to use that to negotiate either a lower money factor than what the dealer quoted you, or as leverage to reduce the MSRP to offset that markup.
Ok but then you aren’t really getting a deal right? If you pay higher money factor but reduce the sell price to offset, then aren’t you still paying for interest (money factor x 2400) more than the principal? A good deal would be to reduce MF and MSRP
Yes sure - any reduction from the MF and/or MSRP is to your benefit. My point is that those lease rates are program rates through the manufacturer’s financing and dealers often mark them up despite having no function in the lease. If you didn’t know the program MF you wouldn’t know how much they’re marking it up - so it’s always best to find that out.
When I had my landscape company I always leased my work trucks (Chevies) got better deals extended miles per year and when I turned them in, only one got a charge for a dented rear quarter panel. I could write off the lease payments and all expenses associated with the trucks. I did buy one of the trucks out at the end of the lease as the buyout was almost 3K less than the current prices of the same truck used with more miles and poorer condition. Personally now being retired I have a Buick encore gx, got it for 23K, less 9K for my 2016 Cruze it was a purchase not a lease so I have a $258 payment for 5 years which I'm ok with...i really couldn't find a $0 down lease deal where I could have sold the Cruze for cash to a dealer, deduct the first payment, and drive out with a new car and a check. I would lease again on those terms but right now no good lease deals are out there and I do like my Buick.
Good points, a lot of what was discussed was "oh that is true, I just never rationalized it". Here Hyundai only comes with a 5 year warranty - and 3 of that is "more deluxe" - the bonus is that it lowers the prices of cars here - likely by $2000 thereabouts from what I can perceive. It was confusing but I started to look at the hybrid version of my car and it made sense with ONE "bonus" being a lot of the warranty was extended to 8 years (on high cost items) so that got in my head. When they only had petroleum only models "with new order hybrids being not nearly at the same market pricing availability" I kind of listened to the warranty presentation more. It was around $4000 from Hyundai to make it 8 years "deluxe everything package" and they offered me employee pricing which was $2000 with taxes and fees included. It includes "refund at the end" if it is never used and cancellation refund or transfer pro-rated. All I know is that a flat tire cost me $100 to repair and it was not under "any warranty" the first year according to the service (I asked twice - when I came in and then on the paying). It was another reason to swap out the "not great" factory tires (in my opinion - but they looked fantastic at least).
Great info! I find leasing very confusing, this information helps. Having you guys do a demo between customer and sales person for a lease would be helpful, too.
Appreciate this video is a few months old but hopefully someone can help! If we shouldn't give away our monthly price, what should you say when a lease sales rep asks "what is your budget for your new lease?" Do I say something along the lines of, "monthly budget doesn't concern me I would like to get X% off the MSRP"? If so, what is a reasonable discount to ask for without getting laughed at or screwed over.
I was at a Ford dealership today. New trucks with missing stickers, about 1/2 of them, just the “dealer add-on” dealers and total pricing. There were trucks with the MSRP and a difference, up charge, from MSRP to the start of the dealer add on sticker averaging 1500-2000 higher to start.
Another bonus rule is to never have your lease payment exceed 1.5% of your MSRP based on a lease with NO MONEY DOWN due at signing otherwise you’re not getting a good lease. Best leases are when your payment is 1% of the price of MSRP and you get there with no money out of pocket at signing or only doing your first payment upfront and rolling the rest of the fees into the lease Another tip is try to stay away from long term leases that exceed 39 months and choose lease term 33 months 36 months or 39 months at most and all the other terms should be avoided as options to lease and if you want to keep the car for longer then 39 months than you really shouldn’t be leasing but financing.
@@indycharlie correct. 👍 with no money down at the time of signing the lease and your worth case scenario on your payment that will not exceed 1.5% of MSRP also with no money down due upfront at the time of signing the lease and if it’s more walk away.
My monthly lease payment for my 21 Grand Cherokee is 1% of the msrp with no money down for 39 months. I do pay 5% of monthly lease price to cover the sales tax each month. So if the lease 500 per month. I add $25 per month for the sales tax in my state.
2:44 so I have leased both ways. Paying fees up front and in monthly payments. It changes the contract structure, like the layout is different because you don’t have anything in “amount due at lease signing” basically 4, 5 and 6 sections of contract. I didn’t really see any difference it’s just how it appears. Also, one time thru deferred my first month payment so it wasn’t at due at lease signing
5:00 the benefit would reduce your down-payment on the wrong end. You wanna haggle all other fees and wave high msrps FIRST this in order sets the stage for your true monthly payment. You don't wanna give the dealer wiggle room (your down payment is there wiggle room)
Great vid guys . Yes but of course leasing cars all these years that has always been principal to get the selling price first from the sales MGR . I skip the salesman altogether and talk straight with the sales MGR.
This is important to know, but these factors work with one another and change the only thing that actually matters - the all in effective monthly price. That's it and that's what everyone should focus on.
It all depends on what the true market value of your car is at that time. If your car is worth much more than the buy-out option, buy it. Or, you can trade the lease in and apply that equity to a new one. If the car is worth much less than the buy-out option, just return it to the bank and they take that loss. This is the #1 advantage of leasing. You literally cannot lose.
Rule of thumb a $40,000 should equal a $400 a month payment with minimal to no money down. Lately though it seems to not be the case anymore due to the state of the economy so expect higher payments but with a little negotiating you may be able to get that $40,000 for less than $400 a month. Check dealer inventory before you head down to the dealer. The more they have in stock of the car you want the better chance you have to negotiate a lower lease payment.
Interesting. Ihave had 2 very good affordable lease situation with no money down, refused additional cost add ons and questioned all the line items. Honda and Subaru were very cooperative. I leased for under $250/mo.
I halted my appointment to lease my wife a toyota prius after seeing this video. I did the opposite of what you gents said not to do and discussed payment, with not understanding or discussing much else. I also saw your quick note on not to lease-to-buy, which is what I intended to do since the vehicle would potentially go to my daughter in 3 years. Why not lease-to-buy? Thanks again so much.
@samueljohn7746 wait till you are due up for the lease to discuss payment for buying vehicle after. maybe you could find another, better deal for a newer vehicle. it also allows you to negotiate at the end of the lease for the selling price. when you lease-to-buy, you lose that negotiating power.
Heck, I got one Golden rule: Buy or finance a reliable vehicle. You save massive amounts of money in the long run, if you keep it for several years and do just routine maintenance. We all got that one friend/relative/co-worker who onsists they have to drive a new or different vehicle every couple of years. Well, enjoy being broke your entire life unless you're a legit millionaire.
Your lease is always under bumper to bumper warranty so you never have to worry about costly repairs AND you get to drive a different car every 3 years. Lease payments are usually substantially cheaper than financing so being a millionaire to afford a lease is ridiculous.
First of all, you guys and your team rock 🎸 , awsome job, if its not to much trouble in another video go over what a vehicle lease agreement form is its almost has as many line entries as a federal income tax form , that would be awsome. Ooo and not all lease agreement forms are the same they different in the way all the crazy math is done. Keep rocking, im learning alot thanks to you guys and your awsome team 😊😊😊
Right now I'm trying to lease a BMW I4 M50 they quoted me at 599 a month but they want 6 grand do at signing so I told him I don't want to put any money down but if I roll over enter my monthly payments it'll be well over $800 a month
The risk of totalling your car aside.. (you loose nothing if someone else is at fault), the higher the lease rate, the more incentive there is to put money down on a lease. What you will earn, for example, on a high interest savings account (after taxes) will come no where near as close as the lease interest rates for some cars. Porsche for example, in Canada is charging 9% lease rate... yep - that's right 9%... There are obvious advantages to putting money down on a lease if you are being charged a very high interest rate.
I got screwed with a lease… supposedly they had vehicles for $300 per month, they up the MSRP, I put $5k down, put the extended warranty, and still got an awful payment of $924… they said it was 0% and I see there’s a 7% sales tax… planning to call the bank to see if able to renegotiate the interest or something hopefully but would never do this again
5:02 I thought I was well versed but didn’t realize this. So I don’t need to make the first payment when I drive off? I’m confused. When do I pay the first payment?
@@Luvmygrands10 so I ended up getting my car and I told them I would pay the first payment that day but needed to see the lease agreement show that and the remaining payments to be 35 instead of the 36
One thing not mentioned are MSDs, or security deposits. Could be wrong but not all manufacturers accept it and the policies will vary. Example, do you get the MSDs back once the lease ends, but don’t of lease was ended early. Also what happens if the car is totaled etc. MSDs can help bring monthly down, but again gotta know what the contract says about them.
What happens if the dealer takes the first payment, registration, and fees out of a lease cash incentive to make it zero drive off? Is that something that pads their profit? What should a customer be asking for instead?
I think you should put a caveat in this video that you're already getting 'screwed' if you're leasing a car. Good explanation how to get less 'screwed' though.
Nice advice however, it may not apply for exotic cars for example. In order to lease this cars you need to put a down payment, ‘cause the monthly payment could be really high. Moreover, the financial department may ask u to pay at front the whole year if they believe it’s the safest way to proceed. So no monthly payments but a necessary down payment
Can you please clarify. I thought that the advertised GM Lease, Mazda Lease etc. terms were set by corporate, not the dealer. They can be negotiated with the dealer?
Absolutely, if they finance rate is less than the rate you can get from investing your money. Think about it this way, when you spend money on your credit card today, does it make sense to pay it off tomorrow, or wait until the day the payment is due?
Hi guys! Would you say that leasing a car would be the best option when: 1. You are moving to a new state and can't bring your own car (overseas) 2. You are in need of a car ASAP for more mobility at work 3. You may not have much money for a decent down payment in case of financing (since will be investing in moving), 4 And, you are not sure if you'll stay too long in the state?
What happens for cars that are let’s say over $150,000 that you want to leave because it’s the most advantageous wait purchase it. Often times no matter who you are or what your credit score is you cannot lease it without 10% down what do you saved about this?? Likewise single pay leases with gap insurance.
I understand what you are saying about the payment ,but iff you’ve done the research on everything the monthly payment is all you need to know with the money factor and don’t go over 42 months max
Thanks for these tips! But do you think in these times we can still have leverage not to put money down? Dealers here in South Florida are being too comfortable and not wanting to negotiate. In fact, they say, you can go if you want, we have other people in line.... its crazy.
Unless you like a new vehicle/car every three years or can't afford the monthly purchase payment for a 36 month loan, it seems like purchasing is a better option, especially if one gets a very low interest rate. Maybe a lease makes sense for low reliability vehicles, but since even the poor quality vehicles seem to go 100,000 miles without repair, I'm not sure....
Hey what do you think of paying a lease all up front in order to save $$ on interest for someone who has a lot of cash and is mostly concerned with paying the least amount over course of the lease?
My husband and I are driving tomorrow to finalize a lease contract that I negotiated for a Kia ev9 GT. MSRP was $76.860 talked town to $59,862 with $5,898 in discount and $11,100 in rebates making the total balance of $65,677.75 with all taxes and fees. With zero down our monthly is $770.87 for a 36mths with 15x annual miles. I made sure the MF is at .00093 and residual is $41,504. My husband is wanting to do zero drive off and not pay our first month at signing but wouldn’t that make our payment higher(we are in Tx if that matters)?
Wait so I’m confused in the sense of rolling everything in. If I do that for example on a 60k car and I say no money down, and roll everything into that payment, isn’t the cat going to be like 1000 dollars a month?
I'm thinking of putting a large down payment so that my monthly payments will be less. The smaller the monthly payment for me would fit into my budget better. What do you think about doing it this way?
Yeah 831 , I am with you . Before this video I always figured the more money down to have less of a lease payment was the best plan ?! I have never leased a vehicle before though . I would have got , got if I'd not seen this ?!
I'm certainly going to take everyone's comments into consideration and take my time doing as much research as I can before I make any final decisions when I go to purchase a vehicle. I've learned so much already through these videos.
I wish I would've did more research before buying my car because I didn't do any of these things and im paying basically $3,000 a month for my car with insurance.
Hi new subscriber here. I love all of your videos. I wish I found you guys last year when I bought my first car lol. 😢❤️😂 speaking on this, and I just realized tonight that my car did not come with any factory mats. I bought it right from the Hyundai dealership too. What do I say to them to get my car mats? I know that they’re going to try and make me buy some but I’m not going to pay for some thing that is supposed to come with my car.
Thanks for this info, how does one shop for a good lease within their budget without having to go through the full sales cycle as described? Or is it not possible without getting trapped into a lesser deal?
Be careful on the money factor. They marked up mine at 8% when doing calucations without me seeing, while the whole time they told me it was 4% (which is already bad enough)
Here's everything you need to know about how to lease a car, and how to avoid overpaying: caredge.com/guides/leasing-a-car-in-2023
Are you able to show a video pretending to negotiate a lease for a vehicle? That would be extremely helpful!
Thanks. Idk that I would lease again but it's interesting to see where it can be more expensive. Am not sure if the prenegotiated advertised deals are that bad but it would be better to do no money down. Years ago, I did a couple of leases that way. Sage advice though; Great video!
@@dg-cg5gi I want to see this as well so bad.
I don't get why the sell price is more important than the monthly payment which is what we ultimately pay?
Sell price is just one of the variables and a lower sell price doesn't always translate to a lower monthly payment.😅
Yeah and then they wind up charging you more than what you are saving anyway. Lol
Another lease tip if you stay with the same brand try and turn it in a month or 2 before your lease ends to avoid the lease aquisition fee when you turn it in.
I've been leasing for 15 years, and I usually negotiate by monthly payment in order to get the total cost down vs. the cost up from. I do this because I have a monthly budget that I want to be within. Also, I never turn in the car at the end of the lease primarily because I typically have equity in the vehicle and use that money for the next lease. Also, I never had a dealer ask me to purchase an extended warranty because it's a 36-month lease and already under warranty as is. But maybe there are some dealers which are scum bags and try this tactic... Thanks for your videos!
So let me ask you this day said zero at drive off " due at signing " is that mandatory along with upfront cost mandatory ?
So you buy the lease out and then flip the car by selling it before you get into another lease?
There’s to much to not get screwed 🤦🏾♂️
@@testaccounting865but who has that kind of money. The lease company won't let you do it
I just talked to some Honda dealers, and might be new at this, but they are buying out leases to keep their supply, so you can let a local dealer give you a buyout price.@@tomslick2058
Thanks to this video and your clear explanations of these factors, I was just able to confidently negotiate with a sales manager who tried very hard to not discuss the total price of the vehicle the bank would pay or the money factor. I was able to get a $1650 discount off of msrp and a significant reduction in the money factor when he came back to me with the new numbers after my initial “not going to work for me response.” Thank you very much for advocating for the buyer and providing such valuable information when the dealers continue to not only squeeze the customer for more money, but attempt to crush them in these transactions.
What do you mean by “the total price of the vehicle that the bank would pay?”
Is that 14(a) part of the contract called the agreed upon value of the car?
That’s before adding in DMV fees (if not paid as due at lease signing) and acquisition fee which is gross cap cost
Total MSRP incl. destination fee.
Great info. Most people wouldn’t realize you shouldn’t put any money down on a lease
Hmmm....but what if you have below average or poor credit, can you still ask or demand the dealership for: discounted MSRP, no money down/zero drive off and no extended warranties while meeting your $400-$500/monthly payment goal?
Better yet when they say zero drive off is that differrnt than whats due at signing ? @@katrinasoledad8463
I didn't. But, it totally makes sense now.
I put 5.4k on my Mazda 😢 I regret it I hate the car
doesn't depend on the type of vehicle?
Excellent review, Leasing cars since 2004, have gone over 20 leased vehicle (all luxury cars), never put down ,money ZERO DRIVE OFF. now here is the thing,
you have to find the good lease offered by companies, thats the key, most companies at least once a year bring crazy deals on their cars, example I am leasing a 58K Acura MDX Advance for last 2 years and I got that car lease for 396.77, ZERO DRIVE OFF lol go out 80-100 miles to remote town which has a dealer, instead going to yout city dealer, who might be selling tons of cars. remote dealer who doesnt sell much would love to earn your business. tomorrow, I am picking up Subaru Solterra EV MSRP 54K ( Touring model) for zero money down for 329 a month. I made 2 dealer compete each other lol
Hey I'm looking to lease. Which companies are you suppose to go to? Do you go directly to a dealership or do you go to a leasing company?
3 years ago your tips helped me with my lease. But went back this past week and was not successful making a deal. Going back through your videos to hopefully make a deal on Atlas SE w/technology 24. Thanks for making this videos!
My key points, most of which in the video:
1) do the homework on lease specific incentives and the lease money factor from the mfg leasing company before going to the dealership
2) If considering an EV lease, confirm if any available tax credit $s are being fully passed through to the lessee as a cap cost reduction versus being fully or partially held back as profit
3) confirm who the leasing company (lessor) actually is, i.e. make sure there is not a 3rd party leasing company being inserted into the deal, only deal with the mfg's finance company
4) and as illustrated in the video confirm your lease includes GAP as a default item...
Pro tip: decline the GAP insurance and instead add it to your auto insurance for a fraction of the cost.
not all insurance carriers offer true GAP, for example USAA offers an optional policy item that tries to act like GAP but it is ACV plus a fixed percentage, say +20% which could be much less than total owed.
This is great info. It’s just exhausting to think that you even have to apply it to get into a car. Unbelievable.
I have a new business idea. “Professional car lease or purchase negotiators.” For those of you who know the in’s and out’s of car lease/purchase negotiations, you could offer your services to people looking to buy/lease a vehicle but who also may not feel confident in the negotiations. You go in with the customer, sit at the desk with the customer and salesman and you negotiate the best deal for the customer. Charge a reasonable fee of $300 per negotiation for your services, which the customer would feel is money well spent in order to save yourself from getting ripped off. Do you know how many people would sign up for that??? Your welcome!😅
I was literally thinking of the same idea!
Real talk, they can have my $300
God how much I wish someone like that.
It's funny beause I've always thought about this, especially now that I'm looking to lease a new car
You're assuming that the negotiation will be successful. If it's not, then that's another $300 and so on. Slippery slope.
Sadly, this video came 6 days too late for me. I leased a 2023 Mazda CX-5 Turbo. My lease did NOT come with GAP insurance included, so I had to purchase that. In Ohio, GAP insurance is required. I was offered the drive-off option (no money down, blah, blah, blah) and turned it down (stupid in retrospect), put down $2500 (stupid 2.0) and focused on the monthly payment, per another YT video. Luckily, I did not get the extended warranty. After watching this video, I realized how foolish I had been (despite researching the hell out of which car to get and how to negotiate a lease). I've been leasing Hondas for 11 years and wanted a change, so I wasn't a total newbie to the process - and I STILL got screwed. The only good thing is that I love my new vehicle and enjoy driving it a lot. My sales rep kept me there from 1:30-6:00 p.m. during negotiations - it was hot outside, I hadn't eaten in hours, and I was tired - so my defenses were down. I feel like an idiot now. I don't believe they behaved "above board," but I unfortunately signed the contract. I should have walked out of the dealership, like my gut was telling me to, but I didn't. I did receive a Mazda satisfaction survey email - can I complain there? Is there anything I can do to make this less financially painful?
Sorry that deal was frustrating for you. Ford duped me on a Bronco, warranty, 20,000 down. Blah blah blah. Although I am buying the vehicle still a bad deal. Subsequently you can voice your concerns on the survey and write a Google review so others can be aware of there shady tactics. Enjoy your new ride.
@janetperkins9382 I love our CX-5 so far (had it 10 months). The first service call was odd - I'd only had the car 5 months. A sales rep approached me and hustled me to get a NEW CAR! I told him I'd only had my vehicle for a few months and wasn't interested in getting another one until my lease was up. He was very aggressive with me (nice, but pushy), and he gave me his car. I felt like I was being picked up by some creep in a bar - that's how cringy it was! I'd never lease from them again, frankly.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! LEASED A CAR TODAY USING YOUR RULES AND GOT AN AMAZING DEAL 😊
@2:56 gap insurance can be much MUCH cheaper through your regular auto policy than whatever the lease people are charging.
As far as warrenty, the only thing you may consider is a dents, scratches and dings package. They cover dings scrtches and dents (obviously) and wheel damage (curb rash) so that you are not charged for those things at the end, because they can add up. But i would also say, never "return" the lease always trade it in (check and make sure your lease allows this, most do) or put it to another lease. Our last lease was over miles, had a couple dings and scratches, chip in the windsheild etc but the car still had positive equity that went to the new lease - so we didnt pay the dings/dents or return fee or over miles and got $ toward the new lease.
Don't leases usually come with a certain amount of coverage? Like say dents or dings that total less than $1000 are covered?
@@superturtle61177 its usually a size issue, dings under 1 inch they let fly, over they penalize, same with scratches. It all depends but you can also schedule your return inspection several weeks in advance of return and correct any issues if its cheaper to correct vs pay the penalty. For dings, PDR guys can really save you, but so can DIY kits - even if you can't get it to the level of PDR you can likely improve a ding enough to fall within spec to not have a penalty.
Can’t you just sell to carmax? I did that, or sell back to same dealer I leased to for almost $5000. Did you shop around dealers or just sell back to one you leased from?
@@Spanluver yes, you can always buy the lease and sell or trade it as you deem fit
Living in Metro Detroit here , leasing appears to be a simple process since so many qualify either for an employee discount from one of the Big 3 or another type of discount (example - Friends or supplier discount). I leased three Ram trucks between 2016-2020. The invoice showed the employee price (which I got from my dad). I always did absolutely nothing out of pocket. My most recent lease was on a 2023 Jeep Wrangler 4xe. Thanks for the great content !! 👍🏻
How about a video on whether to buy the vehicle when the lease is up, pros and cons.
I hope they see this
Do you want to keep the vehicle?
Is the residual in line with the current market value?
Can you afford the financing?
Is the vehicle expected to be reliable?
If yes to all, I would buy.
It's a bit different in the UK. Most leases allow you to put 1 month down minimum (+fees). That said, depending on the deal, putting more down CAN reduce the total amount payable. Agreed, if the car is written off or stolen within that "down payment period" you lose out. The finance company will be paid out by your insurance but YOU will not get that money back or be able to carry it over into another lease. That's the risk you take by putting more down in an attempt to get a better deal over the total term of the lease.
Man, you guys are my new personal hero’s! Super helpful info. Thank you!
A video on residual values would be fantastic. To me, it seems like the residual value is an arbitrary number. I suspect that certain makes and even models would likely have a higher residual at the end of the lease. It would seem that the higher residual value of a vehicle at the end of the lease would mean that the vehicle has depreciated less than a vehicle with a lower residual value. A Toyota Highlander would have a higher RV vs. say a Ford Edge. One would also think that if the vehicle retains a higher RV at the end of the lease, the lease payments would be less since the car would be worth more at the end of the lease????
Great advice. I would have also discussed the residual value as well. People don't understand that some cars don't lease well and that comes down to the residual set my the manufacturer.
Yes! Without it I don't know how to get a good lease deal without going through the whole sales process for every vehicle.
@@paulgyro Cute but certain vehicles lease like shit because the residual starts with a 5X%. People don't understand that you shouldn't even be considering vehicles that lease so poorly you might just be better off financing them.
@@CryptoRva I thought the leasing company determines the residual?
I thought that money factor was set by bank, that's non negotiable
@@CryptoRvaResidual is determined by the msrp, not the sales price.
This is great info. I /am/was looking at trading in my lease and whatever equity I had was going towards the next one. I was told I'm essentially stuck until the end of my lease because leasing companies are giving crazy buyout prices. My leasing bank is Ally and the dealer said we don't deal with them because their lease buy out numbers to dealers are about 20% more than the truck is worth.
I feel your pain. I also am a victim of the “captive” Ally lease. Never again, will I take an Ally lease. I don’t care if the payment is lower. I loved Honda leases because they wouldn’t charge a dealer crazy fees for buying the car. Only six payments left, which is a silver lining.
“Fair Deal.” What a loaded phrase. What makes any price fair?
For decades now, my attitude has been that if the dealership loses money on one deal during the year, I want it to be mine.
Fairness doesn’t apply here. It is a competition. I want to do better than the the dealer. But, the dealer has many advantages. Most significantly, they have a much better understanding of Supply and Demand in this market for this week than any customer can have.
Still, the best defense is to focus on the OTD price. And don’t be emotional.
Another key to leasing: go the message boards at Edmunds and find out the posted program rate (money factor) for the lease you want (length/miles/zip code). Then you will know how much the dealer is marking up the finance charge and be able to use that to negotiate either a lower money factor than what the dealer quoted you, or as leverage to reduce the MSRP to offset that markup.
Ok but then you aren’t really getting a deal right? If you pay higher money factor but reduce the sell price to offset, then aren’t you still paying for interest (money factor x 2400) more than the principal?
A good deal would be to reduce MF and MSRP
Yes sure - any reduction from the MF and/or MSRP is to your benefit. My point is that those lease rates are program rates through the manufacturer’s financing and dealers often mark them up despite having no function in the lease. If you didn’t know the program MF you wouldn’t know how much they’re marking it up - so it’s always best to find that out.
When I had my landscape company I always leased my work trucks (Chevies) got better deals extended miles per year and when I turned them in, only one got a charge for a dented rear quarter panel. I could write off the lease payments and all expenses associated with the trucks. I did buy one of the trucks out at the end of the lease as the buyout was almost 3K less than the current prices of the same truck used with more miles and poorer condition. Personally now being retired I have a Buick encore gx, got it for 23K, less 9K for my 2016 Cruze it was a purchase not a lease so I have a $258 payment for 5 years which I'm ok with...i really couldn't find a $0 down lease deal where I could have sold the Cruze for cash to a dealer, deduct the first payment, and drive out with a new car and a check. I would lease again on those terms but right now no good lease deals are out there and I do like my Buick.
Good points, a lot of what was discussed was "oh that is true, I just never rationalized it". Here Hyundai only comes with a 5 year warranty - and 3 of that is "more deluxe" - the bonus is that it lowers the prices of cars here - likely by $2000 thereabouts from what I can perceive. It was confusing but I started to look at the hybrid version of my car and it made sense with ONE "bonus" being a lot of the warranty was extended to 8 years (on high cost items) so that got in my head. When they only had petroleum only models "with new order hybrids being not nearly at the same market pricing availability" I kind of listened to the warranty presentation more. It was around $4000 from Hyundai to make it 8 years "deluxe everything package" and they offered me employee pricing which was $2000 with taxes and fees included. It includes "refund at the end" if it is never used and cancellation refund or transfer pro-rated. All I know is that a flat tire cost me $100 to repair and it was not under "any warranty" the first year according to the service (I asked twice - when I came in and then on the paying). It was another reason to swap out the "not great" factory tires (in my opinion - but they looked fantastic at least).
Great info! I find leasing very confusing, this information helps. Having you guys do a demo between customer and sales person for a lease would be helpful, too.
Appreciate this video is a few months old but hopefully someone can help! If we shouldn't give away our monthly price, what should you say when a lease sales rep asks "what is your budget for your new lease?"
Do I say something along the lines of, "monthly budget doesn't concern me I would like to get X% off the MSRP"? If so, what is a reasonable discount to ask for without getting laughed at or screwed over.
I was at a Ford dealership today. New trucks with missing stickers, about 1/2 of them, just the “dealer add-on” dealers and total pricing. There were trucks with the MSRP and a difference, up charge, from MSRP to the start of the dealer add on sticker averaging 1500-2000 higher to start.
Ford near downtown El Paso was showing $4k below MSRP
Another bonus rule is to never have your lease payment exceed 1.5% of your MSRP based on a lease with NO MONEY DOWN due at signing otherwise you’re not getting a good lease. Best leases are when your payment is 1% of the price of MSRP and you get there with no money out of pocket at signing or only doing your first payment upfront and rolling the rest of the fees into the lease
Another tip is try to stay away from long term leases that exceed 39 months and choose lease term 33 months 36 months or 39 months at most and all the other terms should be avoided as options to lease and if you want to keep the car for longer then 39 months than you really shouldn’t be leasing but financing.
Wait ! So you are saying then . If the MSRP is $50,000 , a good lease payment with zero down would be $500 a month ?
@@indycharlie correct. 👍 with no money down at the time of signing the lease and your worth case scenario on your payment that will not exceed 1.5% of MSRP also with no money down due upfront at the time of signing the lease and if it’s more walk away.
@@igorkoske8376 Wow , ok . Thanks .
My monthly lease payment for my 21 Grand Cherokee is 1% of the msrp with no money down for 39 months. I do pay 5% of monthly lease price to cover the sales tax each month. So if the lease 500 per month. I add $25 per month for the sales tax in my state.
@@indycharlieI don't think I've ever seen that good of lease on a $50,000 vehicle out the door. Am I missing something?
best video on leasing i've ever seen! thank you!
2:44 so I have leased both ways. Paying fees up front and in monthly payments. It changes the contract structure, like the layout is different because you don’t have anything in “amount due at lease signing” basically 4, 5 and 6 sections of contract.
I didn’t really see any difference it’s just how it appears.
Also, one time thru deferred my first month payment so it wasn’t at due at lease signing
5:00 the benefit would reduce your down-payment on the wrong end. You wanna haggle all other fees and wave high msrps FIRST this in order sets the stage for your true monthly payment. You don't wanna give the dealer wiggle room (your down payment is there wiggle room)
Great vid guys . Yes but of course leasing cars all these years that has always been principal to get the selling price first from the sales MGR . I skip the salesman altogether and talk straight with the sales MGR.
Fantastic deep dive, guys, THANK YOU so much!
This is important to know, but these factors work with one another and change the only thing that actually matters - the all in effective monthly price. That's it and that's what everyone should focus on.
3:52 Gunther Volkswagen is located here in Fort Lauderdale. Idk if they have any other locations but I know that's where one of their locations are
What are the pros and cons in buying the lease after it ends?
It all depends on what the true market value of your car is at that time. If your car is worth much more than the buy-out option, buy it. Or, you can trade the lease in and apply that equity to a new one. If the car is worth much less than the buy-out option, just return it to the bank and they take that loss. This is the #1 advantage of leasing. You literally cannot lose.
This is such a golden video. Thank you so much for all the help on this!
Rule of thumb a $40,000 should equal a $400 a month payment with minimal to no money down. Lately though it seems to not be the case anymore due to the state of the economy so expect higher payments but with a little negotiating you may be able to get that $40,000 for less than $400 a month. Check dealer inventory before you head down to the dealer. The more they have in stock of the car you want the better chance you have to negotiate a lower lease payment.
Interesting. Ihave had 2 very good affordable lease situation with no money down, refused additional cost add ons and questioned all the line items. Honda and Subaru were very cooperative. I leased for under $250/mo.
What's the dealership do you go to for your lease at this rate?
What was your credit score at the time?
Were these leases done in the mid 1970's?
I halted my appointment to lease my wife a toyota prius after seeing this video. I did the opposite of what you gents said not to do and discussed payment, with not understanding or discussing much else. I also saw your quick note on not to lease-to-buy, which is what I intended to do since the vehicle would potentially go to my daughter in 3 years. Why not lease-to-buy? Thanks again so much.
@samueljohn7746 wait till you are due up for the lease to discuss payment for buying vehicle after. maybe you could find another, better deal for a newer vehicle. it also allows you to negotiate at the end of the lease for the selling price. when you lease-to-buy, you lose that negotiating power.
Heck, I got one Golden rule:
Buy or finance a reliable vehicle. You save massive amounts of money in the long run, if you keep it for several years and do just routine maintenance.
We all got that one friend/relative/co-worker who onsists they have to drive a new or different vehicle every couple of years. Well, enjoy being broke your entire life unless you're a legit millionaire.
Your lease is always under bumper to bumper warranty so you never have to worry about costly repairs AND you get to drive a different car every 3 years. Lease payments are usually substantially cheaper than financing so being a millionaire to afford a lease is ridiculous.
I’m going today. Thank you for the information!
You two should offer either buying or leasing services for potential customers ❤
They do
Great video thank you:)
First of all, you guys and your team rock 🎸 , awsome job, if its not to much trouble in another video go over what a vehicle lease agreement form is its almost has as many line entries as a federal income tax form , that would be awsome. Ooo and not all lease agreement forms are the same they different in the way all the crazy math is done. Keep rocking, im learning alot thanks to you guys and your awsome team 😊😊😊
Thanks for this video. We were just looking at a Lincoln Nautilus 2024. We are going to lease but it can get complicated. You guys are the best.
Did u get the nautilus? What do you think of it?
@@pn504 Still looking around but it is a contender. Not going to rush into getting any car.
@@michellescarborough16 thanks, that's how I feel as well.
0:25 what if I already talked about monthly payment lol because I went way lower than advertised but I also talked about out the door price
Thank you. I learned so much just watching this one video. Thank you again
I didn't know about the money down and the value lost...great info!
This is great advice for the Toyota Crown since they're not selling well.
I might even get the Crown Max.
Could you please do a pro/con of doing a lease to purchase process?
I would love to hear Ray’s perspective on it.
only want to keep a car for 6 years max? Or always trade in car for newer model when financing? might as well lease.
Exactly. That has being my strategy with leasing
i paid only my gap insurance and first payment upfront while negotiating the selling price.
This helps me so much! My first lease I am very excited
Great learning tool, your channel is
Right now I'm trying to lease a BMW I4 M50 they quoted me at 599 a month but they want 6 grand do at signing so I told him I don't want to put any money down but if I roll over enter my monthly payments it'll be well over $800 a month
The risk of totalling your car aside.. (you loose nothing if someone else is at fault), the higher the lease rate, the more incentive there is to put money down on a lease. What you will earn, for example, on a high interest savings account (after taxes) will come no where near as close as the lease interest rates for some cars. Porsche for example, in Canada is charging 9% lease rate... yep - that's right 9%... There are obvious advantages to putting money down on a lease if you are being charged a very high interest rate.
Thanks a lot, great help for my upcoming lease.
I got screwed with a lease… supposedly they had vehicles for $300 per month, they up the MSRP, I put $5k down, put the extended warranty, and still got an awful payment of $924… they said it was 0% and I see there’s a 7% sales tax… planning to call the bank to see if able to renegotiate the interest or something hopefully but would never do this again
Just found your videos and these are so helpful, thank you so much!
5:02 I thought I was well versed but didn’t realize this. So I don’t need to make the first payment when I drive off? I’m confused. When do I pay the first payment?
Yeah, other videos like this say to ask what the first payment is, plus taxes and fees and that's it.
@@Luvmygrands10 so I ended up getting my car and I told them I would pay the first payment that day but needed to see the lease agreement show that and the remaining payments to be 35 instead of the 36
Such a super good authentic video
Awesome info. I was sitting around thinking about why am I going to put money down on this car.
One thing not mentioned are MSDs, or security deposits. Could be wrong but not all manufacturers accept it and the policies will vary. Example, do you get the MSDs back once the lease ends, but don’t of lease was ended early. Also what happens if the car is totaled etc. MSDs can help bring monthly down, but again gotta know what the contract says about them.
I'm looking to lease next year for the first time ever, and all of this information is invaluable.
What happens if the dealer takes the first payment, registration, and fees out of a lease cash incentive to make it zero drive off? Is that something that pads their profit? What should a customer be asking for instead?
Good question
I think you should put a caveat in this video that you're already getting 'screwed' if you're leasing a car. Good explanation how to get less 'screwed' though.
Very helpful!! Thanks guys!!
Nice advice however, it may not apply for exotic cars for example. In order to lease this cars you need to put a down payment, ‘cause the monthly payment could be really high. Moreover, the financial department may ask u to pay at front the whole year if they believe it’s the safest way to proceed. So no monthly payments but a necessary down payment
Can you please clarify. I thought that the advertised GM Lease, Mazda Lease etc. terms were set by corporate, not the dealer. They can be negotiated with the dealer?
Would you recommend the no money down for buying a vehicle and keeping that extra money to help pay the car payment?
Absolutely, if they finance rate is less than the rate you can get from investing your money.
Think about it this way, when you spend money on your credit card today, does it make sense to pay it off tomorrow, or wait until the day the payment is due?
Hi guys! Would you say that leasing a car would be the best option when:
1. You are moving to a new state and can't bring your own car (overseas)
2. You are in need of a car ASAP for more mobility at work
3. You may not have much money for a decent down payment in case of financing (since will be investing in moving),
4 And, you are not sure if you'll stay too long in the state?
What happens for cars that are let’s say over $150,000 that you want to leave because it’s the most advantageous wait purchase it. Often times no matter who you are or what your credit score is you cannot lease it without 10% down what do you saved about this?? Likewise single pay leases with gap insurance.
Thanks about to negotitate mine on friday
This is obviously for people who have a slight grounding in the subject, not for complete newbies. They could clarify a few things.
Can you explain the process for leasing a car? Is it the same as financing a car? Would I need a loan? I can’t find any videos on it.
I desperately need to do this and wish to God one of you would guide me through this ... Lol. Great info ... Help
Thank You so much. I had a lease where I traded in my car that i owned. i had no idea the best way is no money down?
I understand what you are saying about the payment ,but iff you’ve done the research on everything the monthly payment is all you need to know with the money factor and don’t go over 42 months max
Interesting. I've done the prenegotiated specials idk in the past. No frills.
Thanks for these tips! But do you think in these times we can still have leverage not to put money down? Dealers here in South Florida are being too comfortable and not wanting to negotiate. In fact, they say, you can go if you want, we have other people in line.... its crazy.
That’s what I was thinking
Unless you like a new vehicle/car every three years or can't afford the monthly purchase payment for a 36 month loan, it seems like purchasing is a better option, especially if one gets a very low interest rate.
Maybe a lease makes sense for low reliability vehicles, but since even the poor quality vehicles seem to go 100,000 miles without repair, I'm not sure....
AM SHOWING THIS SKILLS ON MY NEXT LEASE
How do you find out the Money Factor from the car company. Also when calculating the Money Factor, where did you get the 2400?
Thank you!
Hey what do you think of paying a lease all up front in order to save $$ on interest for someone who has a lot of cash and is mostly concerned with paying the least amount over course of the lease?
They mentioned this. What if the car is totaled, you lose all that money.
this got you a sub! thanks
Excellent & helpful video! ✨
Great advice!
My husband and I are driving tomorrow to finalize a lease contract that I negotiated for a Kia ev9 GT. MSRP was $76.860 talked town to $59,862 with $5,898 in discount and $11,100 in rebates making the total balance of $65,677.75 with all taxes and fees. With zero down our monthly is $770.87 for a 36mths with 15x annual miles. I made sure the MF is at .00093 and residual is $41,504. My husband is wanting to do zero drive off and not pay our first month at signing but wouldn’t that make our payment higher(we are in Tx if that matters)?
Wait so I’m confused in the sense of rolling everything in. If I do that for example on a 60k car and I say no money down, and roll everything into that payment, isn’t the cat going to be like 1000 dollars a month?
I'm thinking of putting a large down payment so that my monthly payments will be less. The smaller the monthly payment for me would fit into my budget better. What do you think about doing it this way?
Yes and tell me up front so I can tailor the buyers order to what you want to see on the vehicle you want to take home.
On a lease? No no no. Listen to the video. No money down, pay $0 day 1.
Yeah 831 , I am with you . Before this video I always figured the more money down to have less of a lease payment was the best plan ?! I have never leased a vehicle before though . I would have got , got if I'd not seen this ?!
I'm certainly going to take everyone's comments into consideration and take my time doing as much research as I can before I make any final decisions when I go to purchase a vehicle. I've learned so much already through these videos.
@@melanievidec831 like he said in the video - if you wreck the car pulling out of the lot, $0 you just spent comes back to you.
Very informative.
I wish I would've did more research before buying my car because I didn't do any of these things and im paying basically $3,000 a month for my car with insurance.
When they say selling price is they mean the msrp or otd? Or is it something different?
Hi new subscriber here. I love all of your videos. I wish I found you guys last year when I bought my first car lol. 😢❤️😂
speaking on this, and I just realized tonight that my car did not come with any factory mats. I bought it right from the Hyundai dealership too.
What do I say to them to get my car mats? I know that they’re going to try and make me buy some but I’m not going to pay for some thing that is supposed to come with my car.
Thanks for this info, how does one shop for a good lease within their budget without having to go through the full sales cycle as described? Or is it not possible without getting trapped into a lesser deal?
Can you negotiate the money factor? How does knowing that help me as a buyer?
Be careful on the money factor. They marked up mine at 8% when doing calucations without me seeing, while the whole time they told me it was 4% (which is already bad enough)
@@iamgoregeous3952 gotta ask for it.