Thanks for watching! The handle is what connects the tool to the user. It can definitely make or break a knife. Oftentimes people pick up a knife and know immediately that they do or don't like it before they've ever used it to cut something.
Thanks for watching! I've never mixed boiled linseed oil and beeswax before. I'd prefer tung oil or Odie's Oil over linseed oil and/or beeswax because they cure harder and faster. I'd be curious to hear about the results if you try it though. I would guess you'll need to reapply the finish more often. If you're using an unstabilized wood you may have issues with warping or cracking if you don't keep the porous material sealed. You might want to try the finish on a sample piece and splash water on it after its cured to see if it absorbs any water. Good luck!
I've finished some by sanding to anywhere between 220 - 1000 grit and then polishing on the buffing wheel and that's it, no oil. I just like the look better with Odie's Oil. In my opinion an oil finish on synthetic handles helps to keep them from developing a sort of old dingy cloudy look over time. It's also pretty easy to reapply coats whenever necessary and get the handle looking brand new again. I'd say either method is generally accepted for G10.
Thank you. Found this just in time for a Christmas present project for our son. Don't know if I can find that Odie guy you're referring to in time though. Any suggestions for alternatives? Thanks again. 👍🍺 P.S. new sub.
Hey, welcome to the channel! If you're doing a wood handle, then I think Danish oil is a good option. I would do at least 3 coats, with plenty of cure time between coats. The biggest thing with knife handles is that you use a penetrating oil finish as opposed to a surface protectant. The penetrating oil will offer the best long term protection for the handle, and it's generally pretty easy to reapply over the years. As soon as you get any scratch that breaks through a surface coat, it will allow moisture to penetrate the wood and can cause warping and cracking. Best of luck wrapping up your gift for your son! I hope he loves it! 🤙
@williamemerson1799 oh, if it's G10 or micarta it really doesn't need a finish. I find that a finish like Odie's oil makes the final look a little more resistant to scratches and scuffs though. You can take it up to whatever grit finish you like. ~220 for a rough, functional, EDC blade type finish, or you could take it up to 600+ grit and polish it on a buffing wheel to get a more polished look. Be careful on the buffing wheel if you use one, it's deceptively one of the most dangerous tools in the shop!
Buddy, I don’t know anything about making anything remotely as awesome as you did. However I do a bit about materials, such as G10. I’ve heard you are supposed to wet sand G10 because of the dust. Like I said, I don’t know much about craftsmanship, you probably know that already just wanted to give you a tip.
Yeah, G10 is some terrible stuff to breathe. It's made from layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I've never heard that you can only wet sand it, but you most definitely want to be wearing a respirator and have good HVAC in your shop when working with it. Keep in mind that dust particles will remain suspended in air for several hours too, so you can't remove your respirator as soon as you're done sanding. I've got air handlers rated for about 3-4 times the air volume of my shop that I run continuously when I'm out there. Thanks for watching! 🤙
Knives turned out great your handle work is outstanding as usual
Thank you!
I never appreciated how much work goes into making handles .
Thanks for watching! The handle is what connects the tool to the user. It can definitely make or break a knife. Oftentimes people pick up a knife and know immediately that they do or don't like it before they've ever used it to cut something.
Excellent video. I just got some G10. This will be my first time using it, see how it works out.
Thanks! Good luck with the G10! Make sure to wear a respirator. It's nasty stuff to breath.
Super sick man....too bad ur a Seattle fan tho,
😂 Seahawks and Mariners for life! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the tutorial! Do you think a mixture of linseed and beeswax would work for the final finish? It's what I have on hand right now.
Thanks for watching! I've never mixed boiled linseed oil and beeswax before. I'd prefer tung oil or Odie's Oil over linseed oil and/or beeswax because they cure harder and faster. I'd be curious to hear about the results if you try it though. I would guess you'll need to reapply the finish more often. If you're using an unstabilized wood you may have issues with warping or cracking if you don't keep the porous material sealed. You might want to try the finish on a sample piece and splash water on it after its cured to see if it absorbs any water. Good luck!
@@DavidMoonForge Thanks so much for the reply, I'm going to do some experimenting :)
I did not know that you oiled G10 I thought it was a polish by high grit?
I've finished some by sanding to anywhere between 220 - 1000 grit and then polishing on the buffing wheel and that's it, no oil. I just like the look better with Odie's Oil. In my opinion an oil finish on synthetic handles helps to keep them from developing a sort of old dingy cloudy look over time. It's also pretty easy to reapply coats whenever necessary and get the handle looking brand new again. I'd say either method is generally accepted for G10.
Thank you. Found this just in time for a Christmas present project for our son. Don't know if I can find that Odie guy you're referring to in time though. Any suggestions for alternatives? Thanks again. 👍🍺
P.S. new sub.
Hey, welcome to the channel! If you're doing a wood handle, then I think Danish oil is a good option. I would do at least 3 coats, with plenty of cure time between coats. The biggest thing with knife handles is that you use a penetrating oil finish as opposed to a surface protectant. The penetrating oil will offer the best long term protection for the handle, and it's generally pretty easy to reapply over the years. As soon as you get any scratch that breaks through a surface coat, it will allow moisture to penetrate the wood and can cause warping and cracking. Best of luck wrapping up your gift for your son! I hope he loves it! 🤙
@@DavidMoonForge G10 black n tan multi-layer/laminated. Thanks for the reply. Bill
@williamemerson1799 oh, if it's G10 or micarta it really doesn't need a finish. I find that a finish like Odie's oil makes the final look a little more resistant to scratches and scuffs though. You can take it up to whatever grit finish you like. ~220 for a rough, functional, EDC blade type finish, or you could take it up to 600+ grit and polish it on a buffing wheel to get a more polished look. Be careful on the buffing wheel if you use one, it's deceptively one of the most dangerous tools in the shop!
@@DavidMoonForge Absolutely! Think Flitz would work? Got some somewhere.....if I can find it. Gettin old's a bich 🥴👍🍻
Buddy, I don’t know anything about making anything remotely as awesome as you did. However I do a bit about materials, such as G10. I’ve heard you are supposed to wet sand G10 because of the dust. Like I said, I don’t know much about craftsmanship, you probably know that already just wanted to give you a tip.
Yeah, G10 is some terrible stuff to breathe. It's made from layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I've never heard that you can only wet sand it, but you most definitely want to be wearing a respirator and have good HVAC in your shop when working with it. Keep in mind that dust particles will remain suspended in air for several hours too, so you can't remove your respirator as soon as you're done sanding. I've got air handlers rated for about 3-4 times the air volume of my shop that I run continuously when I'm out there. Thanks for watching! 🤙
You do not explain much about your process bud.
🤙