Thank you once again for revisiting this vehicle and it’s dash removal to remove the HVAC housing . Once again you have illustrated live how to actually perform the task . It does appear that it should be able to remove the just the heater core section without removing the entire housing from the dash if just changing the heater core making it much simpler and less time consuming without the added time of going to a mechanic / a/c service to have the refrigerant to be recovered and to be recharged . Also , showing the removal of the plastic insert inside the heater core chamber to improve air flow give insight with proof that it would be worth while to perform . As far as someone asking about the dash getting hung up while removing it from the firewall , just wondering if loosening or removing the steering column support bracket , the aluminum piece , would help to prevent obstruction and / or damage after the steering is removed . It was good that you have made it a point to remove the entire steering column and not leave it in place and that removing just the steering wheel is an unnecessary step . It appears that the steering column removal isn’t nearly as difficult as in some vehicles since it disconnects inside the vehicle and does not need to be removed from under the hood or from the fire wall . I believe it should absolutely be done this way and will no doubt make the job easier overall . If someone wants to remove the dash in its entire so as to work easier , the wiring on the passenger side as you’ve shown in the first video disconnects from the front wheel sensor and the SRS ( airbag ) front sensor under the air cleaner . Both disconnects aren’t terrible to get to but just require a little more effort to make the dash removal easier . Also , there is a ground wire on the drivers side under the front seat held by one bolt under the carpet . Again , just a little more effort but not so terrible . I have not yet done this job but may have to help a friend with the exact same year vehicle . Although we probably won’t be able to enjoy ONLY removing just the heater core housing because he suspects an a/c evaporator leak , your videos take the fear out of the job for anyone . If I do perform the job with him on his vehicle , I’ll revisit this comment and / or add another about the aluminum bracket regarding loosening or removing it to help facilitate making dash removal easier . Thank you again . It’s clear I’m not the only one who appreciates your efforts at making a video to help others . UPDATE : I am in the process of replacing the heater core and evaporator core on a 2008 Jeep Liberty . I would like to add that loosening the aluminum steering column support bracket made dash removal easier and without damage . Under the hood are four fasteners on studs on the aluminum bracket that the brake power booster is bolted to that can be loosened half way or more but no need to remove . Also , a fastener on a stud above the left side valve cover that also can be loosened but not removed . Inside , there are two studs on the aluminum steering column support bracket right and left of the steering column mounting studs that can be loosened . Finally , four fasteners mounting the brake power booster to the steering column support bracket that also can be loosened but not removed . When all eleven fasteners are loosened , the steering column support bracket will drop enough to allow easy removal of the dash and without damage . It’s not a lot more work and is totally beneficial as well as advisable . I found the extra effort well worth it .
@@ChuckZeppelin I don’t know if the video creator has tried but I haven’t since I never got the job , as of yet . If I do get the job , I will update . I will say however that if/when I get the job , I’ve a feeling I will be tempted or just make the decision to just remove the support bracket since I’m personally all about making removal / installation process easier , even if it means more disassembly . I don’t like to damage or break anything and will try to avoid that at any cost .
@@MakeItEasyMechanic I really hope that part 1 and 2 reach many who seek advice to make this repair and need video of detailed disassembly and reassembly . I was happy to add from my experience comments and some advice to help as well . I do wish the owner would have allowed me to remove the plastic piece from the heater core distribution assembly . I feel it would have benefited . The air flow isn’t the best for heat . Hope that next a/c season the air flow will be adequate . The removal of the plastic piece will certainly help there too .
great vids, thank you , im just wondering if you had any problem with steering angle sensor mine is giving me the esp bas light or if you have an advice how to reset it?
Why remove the white plastic deflector? I would expect that to be a required piece for correct flow. Is there any benefits to removing it aside from increased airflow? Does it have any adverse effect by removing it?
Hi, Terrific video. I'm a professional and did this job a few years ago on a slight older Liberty and wanted a refresher. I'd just like to add that the issue you dealt with in pulling the instrument panel over the pedal bracket can be solved by loosening the six easily accessible nuts that secure the pedal bracket to the firewall. This allows the bracket to sag just enough to create the clearance you need. Just loosen them about half way on the studs. Thanks for the video.
Can you remove the white plastic thing while its still in the dash or do you gotta pull the whole thing out to get it out? Your other video is excellent and is giving me confidence to trying tackle this job myself. The heater cores are a pain in the ass on these things. Im hoping to do it without having to mess with the freeon at all
I broke the plastic tab off while removing the dash. Hopefully I don't get a loose noise from the dash. I had a issue with the door seals tearing off , so what I did was ran a piece of electrical tap on the back side of the seal and used black RTV on the back side to reconnect the seal and plastic back together. I let it sit over night and then I peeled the tape off before reassembly. Duck tape is to strong to use and will pull on the seal while removing it. Electrical tape was just enough to hold it in place while the RTV cured. Hope this trick help others.
I was able to remove just the heatercore without removing the whole box i did loosen the box to pull it away from the firewall slightly but it came right off. And thank you for the video it was so much easier after watching part 1 so thank you again
If you take a screwdriver and pry it underneath that metal tab under the dash where the steering wheel is and pry it up while you're pulling out it pops right out nice and easy
What's the purpose of the white plastic thingy you removed because of air flow restriction? I'm wondering if removing that will have a negative effect on how well the AC will cool with that removed. Seems to me it was designed to serve some sort of purpose.
@@AndreBarnett My best guess is the white plastic is a sort of air vane to direct air . I had thought to remove it on the previous job I just did but the owner of the vehicle said just put it back .
@@gmoney9588 What are the long term affects of increasing the heat by 60 degrees? I already see components within the system have a tendency to melt. How do things look after a season or two running 60 degrees hotter? Start a fire?
@@JeffPaul-777 I never did remove the plastic piece from the distribution box of the vehicle I did the job on . The owner did not want it removed . Although I left it in place , I could understand why it would improve air flow . The owner decided he wanted it left in place believing it is there for a reason and should be left in place . Unfortunately , I would not know of benefits or long term advantage or disadvantage . I do not believe however it would cause a fire or anything that could be harmful . It only controls air flow from what I was able to see . I should say that it is my belief that the melting we find of the seals on the different doors seem to be from excessive heat due to heater core partial or complete blockage , resulting in poor circulation of engine coolant , causing the hot coolant to stay in the heater core and the temperature continue to rise . I have noticed this in this vehicle I serviced in the past before the heater core replacement . I strongly believe the heater core blockages are the reason for the high temperatures causing the melting of the door seals . If not for the blockages , there probably would not be the malfunctions of the melting of seals . It is said that engine casting sand that loosens up and clogs into the heater core is the reason for these heater core clogs on the liberty . I suppose that can happen to many vehicles , and not just the liberty ?
Thank you once again for revisiting this vehicle and it’s dash removal to remove the HVAC housing . Once again you have illustrated live how to actually perform the task . It does appear that it should be able to remove the just the heater core section without removing the entire housing from the dash if just changing the heater core making it much simpler and less time consuming without the added time of going to a mechanic / a/c service to have the refrigerant to be recovered and to be recharged . Also , showing the removal of the plastic insert inside the heater core chamber to improve air flow give insight with proof that it would be worth while to perform .
As far as someone asking about the dash getting hung up while removing it from the firewall , just wondering if loosening or removing the steering column support bracket , the aluminum piece , would help to prevent obstruction and / or damage after the steering is removed .
It was good that you have made it a point to remove the entire steering column and not leave it in place and that removing just the steering wheel is an unnecessary step . It appears that the steering column removal isn’t nearly as difficult as in some vehicles since it disconnects inside the vehicle and does not need to be removed from under the hood or from the fire wall . I believe it should absolutely be done this way and will no doubt make the job easier overall . If someone wants to remove the dash in its entire so as to work easier , the wiring on the passenger side as you’ve shown in the first video disconnects from the front wheel sensor and the SRS ( airbag ) front sensor under the air cleaner . Both disconnects aren’t terrible to get to but just require a little more effort to make the dash removal easier . Also , there is a ground wire on the drivers side under the front seat held by one bolt under the carpet . Again , just a little more effort but not so terrible .
I have not yet done this job but may have to help a friend with the exact same year vehicle . Although we probably won’t be able to enjoy ONLY removing just the heater core housing because he suspects an a/c evaporator leak , your videos take the fear out of the job for anyone .
If I do perform the job with him on his vehicle , I’ll revisit this comment and / or add another about the aluminum bracket regarding loosening or removing it to help facilitate making dash removal easier . Thank you again . It’s clear I’m not the only one who appreciates your efforts at making a video to help others .
UPDATE : I am in the process of replacing the heater core and evaporator core on a 2008 Jeep Liberty . I would like to add that loosening the aluminum steering column support bracket made dash removal easier and without damage . Under the hood are four fasteners on studs on the aluminum bracket that the brake power booster is bolted to that can be loosened half way or more but no need to remove . Also , a fastener on a stud above the left side valve cover that also can be loosened but not removed . Inside , there are two studs on the aluminum steering column support bracket right and left of the steering column mounting studs that can be loosened . Finally , four fasteners mounting the brake power booster to the steering column support bracket that also can be loosened but not removed . When all eleven fasteners are loosened , the steering column support bracket will drop enough to allow easy removal of the dash and without damage . It’s not a lot more work and is totally beneficial as well as advisable . I found the extra effort well worth it .
Did you ever try loosening or removing the steering column support bracket? Just wondering if that helped.
@@ChuckZeppelin
I don’t know if the video creator has tried but I haven’t since I never got the job , as of yet . If I do get the job , I will update .
I will say however that if/when I get the job , I’ve a feeling I will be tempted or just make the decision to just remove the support bracket since I’m personally all about making removal / installation process easier , even if it means more disassembly . I don’t like to damage or break anything and will try to avoid that at any cost .
Update: removing the nuts as directed in the comment above does indeed facilitate removal without breakage. I can confirm.
Great tips in the update! thank you
@@MakeItEasyMechanic
I really hope that part 1 and 2 reach many who seek advice to make this repair and need video of detailed disassembly and reassembly . I was happy to add from my experience comments and some advice to help as well . I do wish the owner would have allowed me to remove the plastic piece from the heater core distribution assembly . I feel it would have benefited . The air flow isn’t the best for heat . Hope that next a/c season the air flow will be adequate . The removal of the plastic piece will certainly help there too .
Too late, broke that 20 mins ago. Who knew there was a part 2 lol
great vids, thank you , im just wondering if you had any problem with steering angle sensor mine is giving me the esp bas light or if you have an advice how to reset it?
Why remove the white plastic deflector? I would expect that to be a required piece for correct flow. Is there any benefits to removing it aside from increased airflow? Does it have any adverse effect by removing it?
Hi, Terrific video. I'm a professional and did this job a few years ago on a slight older Liberty and wanted a refresher. I'd just like to add that the issue you dealt with in pulling the instrument panel over the pedal bracket can be solved by loosening the six easily accessible nuts that secure the pedal bracket to the firewall. This allows the bracket to sag just enough to create the clearance you need. Just loosen them about half way on the studs. Thanks for the video.
Studying and planning on doing this job on a 2006 Jeep liberty was there differences you can remember that I need to be aware of?
Can you remove the white plastic thing while its still in the dash or do you gotta pull the whole thing out to get it out? Your other video is excellent and is giving me confidence to trying tackle this job myself. The heater cores are a pain in the ass on these things. Im hoping to do it without having to mess with the freeon at all
I had no heat drivers side, did a CLR flush and problem solved 😁
In what state are you located?
I need a job like that in my dodge nitro
What about if my heater is letting out a coolant smell and then my vents make my inside windshield dirty?How can I fix it?
Sounds like your heater core is leaking and needs to be replaced
Beautiful job, thank you
Thanks so much for this video
Thermoplastics suck
Incredible videos!!! TY!!!
Pull from the bottom?
I broke the plastic tab off while removing the dash. Hopefully I don't get a loose noise from the dash. I had a issue with the door seals tearing off , so what I did was ran a piece of electrical tap on the back side of the seal and used black RTV on the back side to reconnect the seal and plastic back together. I let it sit over night and then I peeled the tape off before reassembly. Duck tape is to strong to use and will pull on the seal while removing it. Electrical tape was just enough to hold it in place while the RTV cured. Hope this trick help others.
I was able to remove just the heatercore without removing the whole box i did loosen the box to pull it away from the firewall slightly but it came right off. And thank you for the video it was so much easier after watching part 1 so thank you again
If you take a screwdriver and pry it underneath that metal tab under the dash where the steering wheel is and pry it up while you're pulling out it pops right out nice and easy
What's the purpose of the white plastic thingy you removed because of air flow restriction? I'm wondering if removing that will have a negative effect on how well the AC will cool with that removed. Seems to me it was designed to serve some sort of purpose.
I am also curious
@@AndreBarnett
My best guess is the white plastic is a sort of air vane to direct air . I had thought to remove it on the previous job I just did but the owner of the vehicle said just put it back .
@@gmoney9588 What are the long term affects of increasing the heat by 60 degrees? I already see components within the system have a tendency to melt. How do things look after a season or two running 60 degrees hotter? Start a fire?
@@JeffPaul-777
I never did remove the plastic piece from the distribution box of the vehicle I did the job on . The owner did not want it removed .
Although I left it in place , I could understand why it would improve air flow . The owner decided he wanted it left in place believing it is there for a reason and should be left in place . Unfortunately , I would not know of benefits or long term advantage or disadvantage .
I do not believe however it would cause a fire or anything that could be harmful . It only controls air flow from what I was able to see .
I should say that it is my belief that the melting we find of the seals on the different doors seem to be from excessive heat due to heater core partial or complete blockage , resulting in poor circulation of engine coolant , causing the hot coolant to stay in the heater core and the temperature continue to rise . I have noticed this in this vehicle I serviced in the past before the heater core replacement . I strongly believe the heater core blockages are the reason for the high temperatures causing the melting of the door seals . If not for the blockages , there probably would not be the malfunctions of the melting of seals . It is said that engine casting sand that loosens up and clogs into the heater core is the reason for these heater core clogs on the liberty . I suppose that can happen to many vehicles , and not just the liberty ?