I have been meaning to do this test as well as nitrite and nitrate tests just to see where I sit. I don't know if this is a tip or not but when I learned the fine art of pool testing (lol) they always said to get a sample 12 to 18 inches below the surface or arms length to get the best readings. Multiple samples taken from different areas can also be mixed together to try to get an average. I'm not sure about ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates but I would imagine that should work the same for them as well.
Your ammonia looks spot on for a healthy system. The chemical tests I think everyone AP farmer should have are the basics: ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. PH should also be tested, either chemically or with a meter. But there is one test I think is equally important and many people overlook: a KH test. That tests the HARDNESS of your water, which is important because it lets you know how STABLE your pH will be. For example, just because a person has a pH of 7.0 doesn't mean that it won't jump to 8.5 in the middle of the night. The only way to know how stable it is would be to have a KH reading. The API company makes a KH kit which comes with a bottle and test tubes, and it works the same way as the ammonia kit. Definitely something to consider, because KH will tell you if you're in danger of having the dreaded pH swing between daytime and nighttime.
Just be aware that Coppersafe will totally give you a “false positive” of an ammonia reading with the API Ammonia test kit! I ran several tests with tank water and distilled water. After contacting both Mardel and API this was a solid conclusion. Seems the only viable way to test for ammonia after you have dosed with Coppersafe is the Seachem Ammonia Badge.
bro, if you give 2.5 ml of pool water then the reagent is 4 drops each, will the results be the same or different? This step is to reduce the cost of monitoring water hehehe
Still learning about all that myself. If the numbers are REALLY high then you can always do a 10% water change every day to help bring things down. The ammonia should start to drop a bit once the bacterial colonies get established ... have you looked into a bio-seed product? As for the pH, most people recommend various types of pH Down but if you're doing it for an edible garden I would try to ensure that it's foodsafe ... Best of luck!
Depend on how carefully you want to monitor things. I hardly ever use it, but every once in a while I do like to see how things are running. Thanks for watching!
That depends on a lot of different factors, if there's ammonia in the water you need to start encouraging the bacteria you need to convert it to something the plants can use ...
![Seachem Ammonia Alert Facts - Ammonia Testing Made Easy [MUST SEE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KFZGIODcG_M/mqdefault.jpg)
![Seachem Ammonia Alert Facts - Ammonia Testing Made Easy [MUST SEE]](/img/tr.png)
I have been meaning to do this test as well as nitrite and nitrate tests just to see where I sit.
I don't know if this is a tip or not but when I learned the fine art of pool testing (lol) they always said to get a sample 12 to 18 inches below the surface or arms length to get the best readings. Multiple samples taken from different areas can also be mixed together to try to get an average. I'm not sure about ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates but I would imagine that should work the same for them as well.
RevtosTV Next time I'll be sure to stick my arm all the way into the settlement tank to get my test water ...
.5 looks like the winner
LCJ farms It kinda does. Thanks for the feedback!
Your ammonia looks spot on for a healthy system. The chemical tests I think everyone AP farmer should have are the basics: ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. PH should also be tested, either chemically or with a meter. But there is one test I think is equally important and many people overlook: a KH test. That tests the HARDNESS of your water, which is important because it lets you know how STABLE your pH will be. For example, just because a person has a pH of 7.0 doesn't mean that it won't jump to 8.5 in the middle of the night. The only way to know how stable it is would be to have a KH reading.
The API company makes a KH kit which comes with a bottle and test tubes, and it works the same way as the ammonia kit. Definitely something to consider, because KH will tell you if you're in danger of having the dreaded pH swing between daytime and nighttime.
***** Cool, that's very good to know. I'll start looking into what I can find for that!
JT Bear
Amonia test kit video is good what method are you using to remove amonia from your tank can you put the video in you tube
Just be aware that Coppersafe will totally give you a “false positive” of an ammonia reading with the API Ammonia test kit! I ran several tests with tank water and distilled water. After contacting both Mardel and API this was a solid conclusion. Seems the only viable way to test for ammonia after you have dosed with Coppersafe is the Seachem Ammonia Badge.
Interesting info, thanks for sharing!
LOVED IT JT I
Aquatic Pets Very glad David!
Testing for water quality. The water is cleared that should good.
yack f zay They seem happy enough!
0.50 IMO. That's pretty high. I would try to get that number down if you can.
Josh's Aquatics & Railroad Videos I'll dose it with the OneFix and check the next day, see if that makes a difference! Thanks for the input!
Sounds good! And you're welcome. :)
Will this test still read that ammonia is present even if it has been detoxified or converted into nitrites or nitrates?
I don't believe it reads them after the conversion cycle but it has been a LONG time since this video ...
This particular test is a salicylate test so it should detect it, however something like a test strip wouldn't detect it.
bro, if you give 2.5 ml of pool water then the reagent is 4 drops each, will the results be the same or different?
This step is to reduce the cost of monitoring water hehehe
I want to know after like doing the water test for ammonia and pH and they both are high then what do I need to do for each situation?
Still learning about all that myself. If the numbers are REALLY high then you can always do a 10% water change every day to help bring things down. The ammonia should start to drop a bit once the bacterial colonies get established ... have you looked into a bio-seed product? As for the pH, most people recommend various types of pH Down but if you're doing it for an edible garden I would try to ensure that it's foodsafe ...
Best of luck!
Is amonia kit really required
Depend on how carefully you want to monitor things. I hardly ever use it, but every once in a while I do like to see how things are running. Thanks for watching!
What number is the goal for the ammonia test
As close to zero as you can.
At what number should I get worried
That depends on a lot of different factors, if there's ammonia in the water you need to start encouraging the bacteria you need to convert it to something the plants can use ...