Thank you for your question to the group. I did not know that and will make a video to address this. I hope someone answers you. I will pin it to help. Thank you so much.
I don't see any reason resin (epoxy, polyester, vinyl ester, etc.) would not cure. It is a chemical reaction with the catalyst/hardener which should be mixed in well. The problem with larger containers and resin is that they generate a lot of heat and the set speed increases with higher temperature. A larger volume can get hot on the inside as heat is generated all around it, it then reacts faster making more heat, and you get a runaway reaction that over heats and ruins the resin (or even catches fire). This is easy to deal with though by selecting a resin that is designed for deep pours and has a slow reaction speed hardener.
Yes it will cure. I have tried it. Because I don't want bubbles and I want a more glossy surface I don't use much or any corn starch to start out. ( I do incorporate it later ) Since air helps silicone cure faster and silicone sticks to silicone, coat your piece lightly with the thinned silicone/naphtha mix and let it sit for 30 to 45 mins or longer to allow the air to aid in curing then mix in the corn starch into your remaining mix of thinned silicone and layer it over the piece. Always mix naphtha and silicone 1st without adding corn starch (No bubbles) then after you mixed it then add corn starch because if you mix all 3 together at once it really gases a lot. And like the gentleman says, use dawn for release agent. Don't use acetone as sub for naphtha it doesn't work worth a hoot.
@@court2379 Casting resin/deep pour resin is good most don't heat up too much. Covering/coating (thin layer) resin will heat up if you deep pour it for sure.
Helpful information! I really appreciate that you explained how the cornstarch worked that cure the silicone and showed your experiments. Dawn as a mold release is a great idea! I’m happy you found silicone oil to work just as well as the mineral spirits and the more toxic additives other people use to make it liquid- it’s a lot safer and you don’t have to worry about breathing in fumes. I have asthma so sometimes it’s difficult being around many chemicals. I know you posted this a few years ago but just wanted you to know you’re still helping people make silicone molds that are safer and really work.
Can one accellerate the absorption of water by immersing the mold in a basin of water and can immersion after the skin forme substitute for the use of the accellerant?
If I can make a suggestion, the music you add is really loud compared to your voice, so it would be nice if you lowered the volume of the music by about 30%
No one likes my music. I do ry to lower the volume of the music, and then UA-cam processes it. It was at 75% before uploading, I hate music louder than voice also. Well, it's up now and I will have to live with it. Thanks for letting me know, I will lower it more from now on.
I found you in a search through Google, not YT. Why don’t you have more views?!! I’m prepping to cast a pumpkin for Halloween so i don’t have to deal with bio stuff 😆 Hope to use your knowledge soon!!!
Martin, I've not yet worked with molding silicone but have a couple projects where I might delve into it. Is it possible to make a silicone mold that can then be used to make silicone items. I would assume it would at the very least need to have a release agent (Dawn?). Thanks for your great content.
Hi Roy. Sounds like a new and important video on the way. Because, silicone sticks to silicone like crazy. I would not attempt it. I do have an alternative, well, several, but here is a good one. ua-cam.com/video/452y9FQ7a0M/v-deo.html
@@GEOsustainable thank you Martin, I suspected that would be the case but hoped maybe there was an easy way. I'm looking forward to any future videos on the subject of a flexible mold for pouring silicone. The project I have in mind is a fairly simple shape, but not sure how difficult it would be to remove from a solid mold. I did find a video of using 2350 mold release for silicone poured into silicone molds.
2 things these work but I don't think either one is flexible. Jesmonite for the mold and then add silicone. there a couple YT video's about to make castings made of silicone using Jesmonite. Another method is mix dry plaster of paris with quick set casting resin See YT "Artist till death" title: mixing plaster with resin. 2nd "how to make resin stronger" one those gives the ratios
Hello! I am trying to figure out how to make skin safe pourable silicone, I have seen basically every video you have about silicone molds, they are very very informative! From what i have seen the silicone oil is the best option for what i am trying , the only problem is that it becomes expensive as i would need quite big quantities. In a previous video you tried to thin silicone with isopropyl alcohol and it didnt work , some coments were saying to try denatured alcohol , do you think that would work? Also would it be ok for skin contact? In another video you also mentioned vegetable oil for cleaning silicone instead of using white spirits, since the vegetable oil is good for cleaning could it also be used for thining? I would love to find something that works just as well as silicone oil that is safe and cheaper... Sory for the long question , you are by far the best person i could think of asking Thank you!
I like your idea of trying vegetable oil, I never tried it but I think it may work. I will also try it. I think you may have something there. I have also heard of denatured alcohol for thinning, but I most certainly would not use it for skin contact.
I'm in a similar situation and was looking for alternatives. For now, I am using silicone oil. Do not use Denatured Alcohol. While it does evaporate when exposed to air, it doesn't appear to evaporate completely from the mold. This leads to shrinking and warping of the mold over time. On top of that, the mold tends to dry out your skin. Maybe a different ratio can be used that would eliminate this issue, but I don't think it's worth the time and effort to experiment on this. Did you end up trying vegetable oil? If so, did it work? I might try a few experiments to see if the results are the same, but would rather not spend the time and money if this doesn't work.
Thank you so much for you videos! I am currently working on some DIY silicone mold projects and the tips you gave in these videos will cut my costs in half if not more. I am trying to make a clear silicone mold, but as you mentioned in one of your other videos, cornstarch makes it turn white. Is there an alternative that you can add to reduce the cure time while keeping it clear? In looking into this I stumbled onto two alternative forms of cornstarch that might work. One is clear jel, which is a modified cornstarch for use in canning and seems to turn clear. The other is ThermFlo, which again, is a modified cornstarch with different thermo-properties, but I couldn't find any images on what it looks like. What about platinum catalyst? It's about 10-20 times more expensive than cornstarch alone, but seems to be the additive that is included in the 2 part silicone kits that speeds up the cure time. The images that I have seen for "Plat-cat" shows a clear liquid, but other images for platinum catalysts show a grey or black powder instead. And lastly, would any thickening agent work, or is there something specific about cornstarch that reacts with the silicone?
I am thrilled you saved some money doing it yourself. That is always the cherry on top the cake you baked. I have answered all your questions in my silicone series and if I may, guide you to the videos I talk about these unknowns. A very inexpensive cure agent to keep clear silicone clear is here: ua-cam.com/video/xvsd4ygCQeA/v-deo.html How silicone does the 'cure' thing: ua-cam.com/video/-8tQNk0cR7Q/v-deo.html...I think. I would recommend watching the entire series as silicone is not a one video subject, and the series covers just about everything silicone under the sun. I truly mean that. Cheers.
@@GEOsustainable Thank you for the quick response. I did see the first video that you linked, but at 17:50 in that video, you state: "You can use cornstarch to speed cure this, but the cornstarch is simply going to turn it white." I was hoping for a speed curing option that leaves the silicone mold clear when it fully cures. But, at the start you did use hydrogen peroxide as a curing agent, maybe a combination of silicone, mineral spirits, and hydrogen peroxide will yield the results that I am looking for. I think I am going to just have to do a few experiments myself to see if any of the cornstarch variants work. I also might try some gelatin powder to see if that will speed up the curing process. I've seen some other videos where glycerin and icing powder were used to speed up the curing process, but they were using a white silicone and yielded results that weren't completely cured after 16 hours. Your cornstarch ratio of 10:1 yields a mold that is mostly cured in just about an hour, which is better suited to my needs. I guess it is just going to take some experimenting on my part.
Ok, I have some experiment results. The first couple of tests were misleading, because even though I was using 100% silicone it was the variety that releases Methanol and Ammonia. I didn't realize this hybrid of Acetoxy and Neutral silicone existed and just falsely presumed that the release of Ammonia was sufficient. Once I switched to the pure Acetoxy one that doesn't release any Methanol, the results were much better, but the smell was worse. I needed a clear mold and found 2 solutions that seem to work well. The first is Hydrogen Peroxide, it works great at reducing the cure time while leaving the mold clear. There are a few downsides to this though. First, it is way more expensive than cornstarch. Fortunately, unlike cornstarch, the Peroxide is reusable for multiple molds, although it does evaporate. Second, it seems to cure much thicker than my other molds. It still will work for my purposes, but for more intricate designs, I don't see these molds holding up well over time as they are likely to rip rather than flex. Don't get me wrong, there is some ability to squish and stretch the end product, but it has what feels like about half of the range of the other results that I got. And the last down side is that this cures much faster than I expected. I was hoping for a pot time of 15 to 20 minutes and a cure time of around an hour. This yields a pot time of less than 5 minutes and a cure time of maybe 20 minutes, at least for the ratio of 50% silicone, 50% mineral spirits, then pouring peroxide over the entire mold. I might get a better pot time and longer cure if I just coat the mold with peroxide rather than submerging the entire thing and trying to shape it while it is in the peroxide. I could also try diluting the peroxide more as I just used the current dilution of the bottle I bought from Walmart. The next solution is a method I saw on other channels, but didn't see here. This method works with either type of silicone, but I got better results with the Acetoxy variety. Simply mix some dish soap and water, then add the silicone. I used Dawn, because I already had that, but as far as I can tell, the band and type doesn't really matter. Some of the soapy water will be absorbed in the silicone, but for the most part they will stay separate. The silicone will stop sticking to your skin and the container and just stick to itself. You can then mold it into the shape that you want, just be sure to coat your hands in the soap or soapy water before touching the stuff. This method left the silicone clear and softer than the Peroxide mixture, but since it doesn't stick as well, tended to peel off the item being molded. This results in loss of detail, air bubbles, and even some gaps where the mold separated completely from the item before it was done curing. Doing a top half can fill in some of those gaps, but then you have these small excess flaps that are very easy to rip and hard to get back where you need them when molding your product. Maybe adding a bit of thinner to this mix before soaping it up might help it fill in those gaps better. Also, this sets way faster than I expected. Most tutorials said it took 24 hrs to cure, which is the cure time listed on the silicone, but these molds were firm, not sticky, and completely usable in less than 8 hours. I don't know the exact time as I left them to cure while I went to sleep, and just checked on them in the morning and found them either entirely cured or at least cured enough for use. I also tried both the dish soap and Peroxide together. That made the silicone more fluid when making the mold, but the end product stuck to my model and I had to cut the original free. The end product is way clearer than either of the methods above, seems to be more flexible than the mineral spirits + peroxide variant. I think this would work the best of the three, if I could get it to set without adhering to the original model. As I haven't succeeded with that yet, I am advising against this as it could ruin the more fragile models I will end up using eventually. If I can make a variant of this that doesn't stick to the model, this might be exactly what I am looking for and would be cheaper than adding mineral spirits to thin the silicone. The pot time for this version is extremely short, as I could feel it hardening in like 3-4 minutes and it seemed to be fully cured in 10-15 minutes, but for the smaller items that I am working with, this shouldn't be too much of a hindrance. Oh, and my last experiment was with gelatin. Unfortunately, I didn't have clear gelatin, bur rather a slight orange colored, but still unflavored gelatin. I couldn't find a clear gelatin that wasn't colored at all. I tried this with both the mineral spirits and the dish soap. I didn't have much confidence in either, but they both worked out rather well. The mix had gel crystals as I was stirring it, didn't seem to be firming at all in the 5-10 minutes that I was mixing it, and seemed like it would be too clumpy to work. I never got it smooth, but out of the various mixtures that I have tried so far, the molds from these had the least amount of air bubbles and didn't seem to have any issue capturing the details. I am not sure what exactly happened, but of the molds I have tried, this left me with the best model print of the bunch, but the outside remained all clumpy and jagged. If I could get some clear gelatin and still get these kinds of results, this might be the best of the bunch. If you don't need your molds to be clear like I do, then I highly recommend you try this. While gelatin isn't as cheap as cornstarch, my end products were better with these molds than anything else that I have tried so far, so that might be worth it.
Off topic question. Do you know where to get casein cheap in the USA? I've been trying to find a US based supply, but all I can find online is protein shakes and a company in Britain that sells casein as fish bait. I find it hard to believe there's not a US source. Anybody got any ideas?
Well, there is always Amazon.com. I use Noble Elephant Supplements. You can also find Casein powder at a health food store such as GNC. And stay tuned. I am going to give away a formula for bioplastic made with milk in an upcoming video.
Thank you so much for this video other wise it could be better like audio or else but that pretty awesome and thanks again.i just have a question: you said it takes days or weeks for fully cure this one, did your measure wasn't correct or this method takes days or weeks to fully cure? And sorry for my language i did my best😅 Once again thank you
I hear you loud and and clear. You and a thousand others. So I am sh_t canning the music. I am so glad, It took a lot of time to put in in. Thanks for speaking your mind, thanks to everyone. New video being edited right now. It is about planting strawberries. If you like 'em, give a watch. After that, a Master Class on silicone based on the first video I did and years of feedback and trying what you folks said.
Sorry mate. I really, really like it. Besides it would be minutes of silence without it, and that would be just weird. I will take requests, however. Someone else mentioned the music as well, so I will be lowering the volume on it from now on.
Can I use this with resin? I've heard it won't cure in these type of molds. Does anyone know if that is true or false? Thanks.
Thank you for your question to the group. I did not know that and will make a video to address this. I hope someone answers you. I will pin it to help. Thank you so much.
I don't see any reason resin (epoxy, polyester, vinyl ester, etc.) would not cure. It is a chemical reaction with the catalyst/hardener which should be mixed in well. The problem with larger containers and resin is that they generate a lot of heat and the set speed increases with higher temperature. A larger volume can get hot on the inside as heat is generated all around it, it then reacts faster making more heat, and you get a runaway reaction that over heats and ruins the resin (or even catches fire).
This is easy to deal with though by selecting a resin that is designed for deep pours and has a slow reaction speed hardener.
Yes it will cure. I have tried it. Because I don't want bubbles and I want a more glossy surface I don't use much or any corn starch to start out. ( I do incorporate it later ) Since air helps silicone cure faster and silicone sticks to silicone, coat your piece lightly with the thinned silicone/naphtha mix and let it sit for 30 to 45 mins or longer to allow the air to aid in curing then mix in the corn starch into your remaining mix of thinned silicone and layer it over the piece. Always mix naphtha and silicone 1st without adding corn starch (No bubbles) then after you mixed it then add corn starch because if you mix all 3 together at once it really gases a lot. And like the gentleman says, use dawn for release agent. Don't use acetone as sub for naphtha it doesn't work worth a hoot.
@@court2379 Casting resin/deep pour resin is good most don't heat up too much. Covering/coating (thin layer) resin will heat up if you deep pour it for sure.
Great content. A lot of love to you from the Beautiful Islands of Trinidad and Tobago 💞
OKY-DOKY!! Great tips and technique. :D
Helpful information! I really appreciate that you explained how the cornstarch worked that cure the silicone and showed your experiments. Dawn as a mold release is a great idea! I’m happy you found silicone oil to work just as well as the mineral spirits and the more toxic additives other people use to make it liquid- it’s a lot safer and you don’t have to worry about breathing in fumes. I have asthma so sometimes it’s difficult being around many chemicals. I know you posted this a few years ago but just wanted you to know you’re still helping people make silicone molds that are safer and really work.
Extremely Smartly dressed Host. and very professional Video Tutorial... Thank you, for your help 🙂
So nice of you, thank you. I am thrilled I was helpful.
@@GEOsustainable You're very welcome.
I came for the mold lesson. Stayed for the music. 🤣 💃 🕺
That's a first. So glad you liked it. And good luck with your mold. Don't forget a mold release agent. Rok on.
Can one accellerate the absorption of water by immersing the mold in a basin of water and can immersion after the skin forme substitute for the use of the accellerant?
I use windex as a release agent for PETG on my 3d printing build plate. Have you tried that instead of dawn?
So I can use dawn instead of caster oil and alcohol? That would bring my cost down even lower.
Thanks for sharing your info!! I’m very happy to know about new workarounds and tips
If I can make a suggestion, the music you add is really loud compared to your voice, so it would be nice if you lowered the volume of the music by about 30%
More to come!
No one likes my music. I do ry to lower the volume of the music, and then UA-cam processes it. It was at 75% before uploading, I hate music louder than voice also. Well, it's up now and I will have to live with it. Thanks for letting me know, I will lower it more from now on.
I found you in a search through Google, not YT. Why don’t you have more views?!! I’m prepping to cast a pumpkin for Halloween so i don’t have to deal with bio stuff 😆 Hope to use your knowledge soon!!!
Awesome. I am so glad you got here in the end. That sounds like a really cool idea. Thanks for sharing.
Martin, I've not yet worked with molding silicone but have a couple projects where I might delve into it. Is it possible to make a silicone mold that can then be used to make silicone items. I would assume it would at the very least need to have a release agent (Dawn?).
Thanks for your great content.
Hi Roy. Sounds like a new and important video on the way. Because, silicone sticks to silicone like crazy. I would not attempt it. I do have an alternative, well, several, but here is a good one. ua-cam.com/video/452y9FQ7a0M/v-deo.html
@@GEOsustainable thank you Martin, I suspected that would be the case but hoped maybe there was an easy way. I'm looking forward to any future videos on the subject of a flexible mold for pouring silicone. The project I have in mind is a fairly simple shape, but not sure how difficult it would be to remove from a solid mold. I did find a video of using 2350 mold release for silicone poured into silicone molds.
2 things these work but I don't think either one is flexible. Jesmonite for the mold and then add silicone. there a couple YT video's about to make castings made of silicone using Jesmonite. Another method is mix dry plaster of paris with quick set casting resin See YT "Artist till death" title: mixing plaster with resin. 2nd "how to make resin stronger" one those gives the ratios
Hello! I am trying to figure out how to make skin safe pourable silicone, I have seen basically every video you have about silicone molds, they are very very informative! From what i have seen the silicone oil is the best option for what i am trying , the only problem is that it becomes expensive as i would need quite big quantities. In a previous video you tried to thin silicone with isopropyl alcohol and it didnt work , some coments were saying to try denatured alcohol , do you think that would work? Also would it be ok for skin contact? In another video you also mentioned vegetable oil for cleaning silicone instead of using white spirits, since the vegetable oil is good for cleaning could it also be used for thining?
I would love to find something that works just as well as silicone oil that is safe and cheaper...
Sory for the long question , you are by far the best person i could think of asking
Thank you!
I like your idea of trying vegetable oil, I never tried it but I think it may work. I will also try it. I think you may have something there. I have also heard of denatured alcohol for thinning, but I most certainly would not use it for skin contact.
I'm in a similar situation and was looking for alternatives. For now, I am using silicone oil. Do not use Denatured Alcohol. While it does evaporate when exposed to air, it doesn't appear to evaporate completely from the mold. This leads to shrinking and warping of the mold over time. On top of that, the mold tends to dry out your skin. Maybe a different ratio can be used that would eliminate this issue, but I don't think it's worth the time and effort to experiment on this.
Did you end up trying vegetable oil? If so, did it work? I might try a few experiments to see if the results are the same, but would rather not spend the time and money if this doesn't work.
Now that box stores dont dell naphtha any more, where do you source it??
It is sold under other names. Like Lighter Fluid or Camp Stove fuel. And you can use another solvent such as Mineral Spirits.
They don't?! I didn't know that!
Hi, I have heard that these DIY molds shrink up to 20% . Is that true?
Thank you so much for you videos! I am currently working on some DIY silicone mold projects and the tips you gave in these videos will cut my costs in half if not more. I am trying to make a clear silicone mold, but as you mentioned in one of your other videos, cornstarch makes it turn white. Is there an alternative that you can add to reduce the cure time while keeping it clear? In looking into this I stumbled onto two alternative forms of cornstarch that might work. One is clear jel, which is a modified cornstarch for use in canning and seems to turn clear. The other is ThermFlo, which again, is a modified cornstarch with different thermo-properties, but I couldn't find any images on what it looks like. What about platinum catalyst? It's about 10-20 times more expensive than cornstarch alone, but seems to be the additive that is included in the 2 part silicone kits that speeds up the cure time. The images that I have seen for "Plat-cat" shows a clear liquid, but other images for platinum catalysts show a grey or black powder instead. And lastly, would any thickening agent work, or is there something specific about cornstarch that reacts with the silicone?
I am thrilled you saved some money doing it yourself. That is always the cherry on top the cake you baked.
I have answered all your questions in my silicone series and if I may, guide you to the videos I talk about these unknowns.
A very inexpensive cure agent to keep clear silicone clear is here: ua-cam.com/video/xvsd4ygCQeA/v-deo.html
How silicone does the 'cure' thing: ua-cam.com/video/-8tQNk0cR7Q/v-deo.html...I think.
I would recommend watching the entire series as silicone is not a one video subject, and the series covers just about everything silicone under the sun. I truly mean that. Cheers.
@@GEOsustainable Thank you for the quick response. I did see the first video that you linked, but at 17:50 in that video, you state: "You can use cornstarch to speed cure this, but the cornstarch is simply going to turn it white." I was hoping for a speed curing option that leaves the silicone mold clear when it fully cures. But, at the start you did use hydrogen peroxide as a curing agent, maybe a combination of silicone, mineral spirits, and hydrogen peroxide will yield the results that I am looking for.
I think I am going to just have to do a few experiments myself to see if any of the cornstarch variants work. I also might try some gelatin powder to see if that will speed up the curing process. I've seen some other videos where glycerin and icing powder were used to speed up the curing process, but they were using a white silicone and yielded results that weren't completely cured after 16 hours. Your cornstarch ratio of 10:1 yields a mold that is mostly cured in just about an hour, which is better suited to my needs. I guess it is just going to take some experimenting on my part.
Ok, I have some experiment results. The first couple of tests were misleading, because even though I was using 100% silicone it was the variety that releases Methanol and Ammonia. I didn't realize this hybrid of Acetoxy and Neutral silicone existed and just falsely presumed that the release of Ammonia was sufficient. Once I switched to the pure Acetoxy one that doesn't release any Methanol, the results were much better, but the smell was worse. I needed a clear mold and found 2 solutions that seem to work well.
The first is Hydrogen Peroxide, it works great at reducing the cure time while leaving the mold clear. There are a few downsides to this though. First, it is way more expensive than cornstarch. Fortunately, unlike cornstarch, the Peroxide is reusable for multiple molds, although it does evaporate. Second, it seems to cure much thicker than my other molds. It still will work for my purposes, but for more intricate designs, I don't see these molds holding up well over time as they are likely to rip rather than flex. Don't get me wrong, there is some ability to squish and stretch the end product, but it has what feels like about half of the range of the other results that I got. And the last down side is that this cures much faster than I expected. I was hoping for a pot time of 15 to 20 minutes and a cure time of around an hour. This yields a pot time of less than 5 minutes and a cure time of maybe 20 minutes, at least for the ratio of 50% silicone, 50% mineral spirits, then pouring peroxide over the entire mold. I might get a better pot time and longer cure if I just coat the mold with peroxide rather than submerging the entire thing and trying to shape it while it is in the peroxide. I could also try diluting the peroxide more as I just used the current dilution of the bottle I bought from Walmart.
The next solution is a method I saw on other channels, but didn't see here. This method works with either type of silicone, but I got better results with the Acetoxy variety. Simply mix some dish soap and water, then add the silicone. I used Dawn, because I already had that, but as far as I can tell, the band and type doesn't really matter. Some of the soapy water will be absorbed in the silicone, but for the most part they will stay separate. The silicone will stop sticking to your skin and the container and just stick to itself. You can then mold it into the shape that you want, just be sure to coat your hands in the soap or soapy water before touching the stuff. This method left the silicone clear and softer than the Peroxide mixture, but since it doesn't stick as well, tended to peel off the item being molded. This results in loss of detail, air bubbles, and even some gaps where the mold separated completely from the item before it was done curing. Doing a top half can fill in some of those gaps, but then you have these small excess flaps that are very easy to rip and hard to get back where you need them when molding your product. Maybe adding a bit of thinner to this mix before soaping it up might help it fill in those gaps better. Also, this sets way faster than I expected. Most tutorials said it took 24 hrs to cure, which is the cure time listed on the silicone, but these molds were firm, not sticky, and completely usable in less than 8 hours. I don't know the exact time as I left them to cure while I went to sleep, and just checked on them in the morning and found them either entirely cured or at least cured enough for use.
I also tried both the dish soap and Peroxide together. That made the silicone more fluid when making the mold, but the end product stuck to my model and I had to cut the original free. The end product is way clearer than either of the methods above, seems to be more flexible than the mineral spirits + peroxide variant. I think this would work the best of the three, if I could get it to set without adhering to the original model. As I haven't succeeded with that yet, I am advising against this as it could ruin the more fragile models I will end up using eventually. If I can make a variant of this that doesn't stick to the model, this might be exactly what I am looking for and would be cheaper than adding mineral spirits to thin the silicone. The pot time for this version is extremely short, as I could feel it hardening in like 3-4 minutes and it seemed to be fully cured in 10-15 minutes, but for the smaller items that I am working with, this shouldn't be too much of a hindrance.
Oh, and my last experiment was with gelatin. Unfortunately, I didn't have clear gelatin, bur rather a slight orange colored, but still unflavored gelatin. I couldn't find a clear gelatin that wasn't colored at all. I tried this with both the mineral spirits and the dish soap. I didn't have much confidence in either, but they both worked out rather well. The mix had gel crystals as I was stirring it, didn't seem to be firming at all in the 5-10 minutes that I was mixing it, and seemed like it would be too clumpy to work. I never got it smooth, but out of the various mixtures that I have tried so far, the molds from these had the least amount of air bubbles and didn't seem to have any issue capturing the details. I am not sure what exactly happened, but of the molds I have tried, this left me with the best model print of the bunch, but the outside remained all clumpy and jagged. If I could get some clear gelatin and still get these kinds of results, this might be the best of the bunch. If you don't need your molds to be clear like I do, then I highly recommend you try this. While gelatin isn't as cheap as cornstarch, my end products were better with these molds than anything else that I have tried so far, so that might be worth it.
Off topic question. Do you know where to get casein cheap in the USA? I've been trying to find a US based supply, but all I can find online is protein shakes and a company in Britain that sells casein as fish bait. I find it hard to believe there's not a US source. Anybody got any ideas?
Well, there is always Amazon.com. I use Noble Elephant Supplements. You can also find Casein powder at a health food store such as GNC. And stay tuned. I am going to give away a formula for bioplastic made with milk in an upcoming video.
Thank you so much for this video other wise it could be better like audio or else but that pretty awesome and thanks again.i just have a question: you said it takes days or weeks for fully cure this one, did your measure wasn't correct or this method takes days or weeks to fully cure?
And sorry for my language i did my best😅
Once again thank you
Silicone needs moisture to cure. Cornstarch holds moisture. It takes some experimentation to find the desired cure time.
Thank you
My pleasure.
Dude we don’t need to stop and do the cha cha just because you are mixing silicone. Please leave the lab sounds in. Shit-can the music please.
I hear you loud and and clear. You and a thousand others. So I am sh_t canning the music. I am so glad, It took a lot of time to put in in.
Thanks for speaking your mind, thanks to everyone. New video being edited right now.
It is about planting strawberries. If you like 'em, give a watch. After that, a Master Class on silicone based on the first video I did and years of feedback and trying what you folks said.
Please get rid of the music!
Sorry mate. I really, really like it. Besides it would be minutes of silence without it, and that would be just weird. I will take requests, however. Someone else mentioned the music as well, so I will be lowering the volume on it from now on.
I really like it!
Please keep the music. I could have sworn I saw a hip movement. Great video.