Quick Fix: Yamaha Digital Keyboard Faulty LCD (DGX-530, YPG-535)
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- Опубліковано 4 лис 2023
- I picked up this broken "as-is" Yamaha YPG-535 digital keyboard from a thrift store that still had the original $475 receipt in it. The screen did not output on half of the side. This is a common manufacturing defect in some Yamaha keyboards, and presumably many other electronics, from the LCD ribbon cables losing adhesion. I was able to fix the problem in a few minutes with no needed parts, which saves the $60-$100+ asking price for a new LCD. I roughly documented this process for anyone interested.
I came across a different video that uses a "no soldering/hot air gun" method by placing paper-holding clamps on the PCB. While I wouldn't recommend that for a long-term solution, it's still a creative idea! • Yamaha YPG / DGX LCD S... - Наука та технологія
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Thanks for this video! I had a feeling it was jusy the screen ribbon cable but never wanted to take it apart. Ive had this keyboard since Christmas when i was like 10 years old. Just getting back into music making and this will help a ton having my keyboard working properly again.
Happy to help. I may have to take mine apart again for another problem after it accidentally fell flat on its face! Now the first time I turn it on it just is a loud humming until I power cycle it once or twice. I also had inadvertently put the sustain pedal in the headphone jack, so am wondering if something glitched out due to that (but mechanically I don't think it should had). It really is an excellent keyboard it's the only one I've ever had that was full sized like this, lightyears better than the really cheap Casio ones I'd get growing up.
very professional video. thanks alot!
Many thanks for this video. Just had a similar fault on a keyboard come in. Will reflow the FPC cables and test again. Otherwise, there is Aliexpress for new replacements of LCDs.
Wish to say, thanks again! Same fix worked for us as well. We used a relatively low heat setting on our hot air tool + flux on the same PCB cables. Went back and forth a few times while pressing down gently with metal tweezers. The entire LCD fired right up like it was factory new.
GReat Job! I was debating if I should get a new screen. My 535 does the same thing. I got it used from a former student. It also has a key issues that I understand is normal for these models..I'm contemplating using "conductive paint" to freshen the contacts of the keys that are loud or missing the tone...Have you heard of someone using this method? I've searched for a few years and can't find anyone that successfully did it..Seems logical. I used to use a No. 2 pencil and it worked for a while...but had to go back in almost annually. I had the keyboard for over 7 yrs. I love it, the action, piano sound quality is unmatched to newer boards in my opinion..I'm not being cheap either..great board. HELP, PLEASE!
I have not dealt specifically with repairing these keys, but the basic concept goes way back to electric typewriter days where I do have some experience repairing them and in similar style to what you describe. Many "keys" used on devices use foil pads that wear or break loose over time. Or, as you found, the carbon/contact sensing properties wean. I was fixing up a typewriter last year that had many other issues but part of it was the key pads had all disintegrated. I had bought a roll of double-sided copper foil tape believing this to be a better solution than paint or pencil contact restoration. But the typewriter had other malfunctions to the point where I didn't yet get to try the approach. Basically my idea was to cut a piece of the tape and adhere it to the worn pads, to restore touch contact functionality. They sell them in many different widths and for only $5-$8 for a 65 foot roll.
Any advice if i dont have a soldering machine?
Thanks for this.
I wish your hand wasn't blocking the view of the work but regardless, MUCH appreciated!
Sorry about that! It was a sort of impulse recording decision and I really was not paying attention to camera placement, but hopefully the gist of it came across clear enough.
@@MattPilz No worries. thanks for posting.
because of it, I was able to make an improvement on my wife's keyboard screen. Now the entire screen is visible but the contrast is wonky -easier to see off angle than straight on. BUT! the entire screen is now visible whereas before it was only half.
So thanks for posting!
@@edwardjski There is a black contrast knob on the back of the case, what happens when you turn that all the way up or down?
THAT WAS IT!
I use Yamaha gear for in-ear monitors, wireless mics etc and there's a contrast/view setting in the settings menu of those devices. So I was looking for something similar in YPG; I didn't think it would be a physical knob on the back panel!
Thanks so much! This was one of the repairs my wife wanted for Christmas and now it's sorted.
@@edwardjski Weak video image may be due to a weak connect on your ribbon cables. Try pressing them harder onto the board.
So sad you didn't move the camera so we could see the air solder tip and the ribbon while you were reheating them. Viewing your knuckles and the back end of the solder gun was unhelpful. But otherwise, a helpful video! Thanks for sharing it.
I can't believe I did that either. It was such a spontaneous repair I only thought as a last minute thing to film it, but then didn't even check where the camera was pointing for the key moment... Sorry but yes the process is really just reheating the ribbon cable and pressing down on it as you go along. I didn't expect many to ever need to know this random repair task but it turns out it is more common and these keyboards are still more popular than I anticipated.
When i power mine on, the screen flashes and the speakers make a rhythmic beat. Its like it wants to start up but wont. The original power supply was bad when i got it and the replacement is a 12v1.5a. Does it need a 12v2a?
Thanks for the advice
This does sound like a power supply issue, though not an amp issue (the factory adapter is 12V DC 1.5A). I had a similar problem where an adapter I bought from a thrift store would cause the speakers to "lock" in a buzz and the screen would light up but never show display until I power cycled a few times. I checked the voltage being output from the 12V adapter and it was actually outputting over 18V so was overpowering it. You might want to check your actual adapter voltage with a multimeter it's possible it is bad and outputting something abnormal. The adapters found commonly in USB external hard drives tend to work well.
Half of my screen came back-though weakly. But I guess half is better than none!
It's possible the ribbon cable is still not making a strong enough connection. Also experiment with the black knob on the back to alter the contrast and see if that might kick it back into order.
Replayed this 50 times just to hear that accent..."doncha know hey".
Can't see what you're doing with the heat, your hands in the wsy
I really wish I had paid closer attention to camera placement for that moment! But it is truly just running back and forth slowly across the ribbon cable with heat, and simultaneously applying pressure to it with any sort of sponger tool. Only objective is to make it better adhere to the board.
Mine just broke all the way lol