I’m Zone 2, 100* for 6mo a year. It’s InsoFast outside clad in board & batten. Inside it’s 2.5” of closed cell spray foam, 1.5” air gap, then advanced framing wall with staggered studs and insulation. Goal is passive house standards, minimize heat gain, noise abatement. Each exterior container is double width, so losing a few inches is irrelevant.
Great info, thanks for sharing. I live in the carribean and we get 11-13ft of rain per year and the climate is 75-88 degrees Farenheit all year-round. What do you recommend for my container framing and insulation? Steel or wood framing? Best insulation for jungle humid environment?
Great video! I’d like to see a comparison of all 5 insulation types, and the bonus type. Temp outside vs inside, cost of materials, time to install, etc. Maybe some thermal camera shots too please.
Hey man, thanks for the solid content. Just bought a beat up 40hc and I’m learning a lot. I have a question, I’m in south Florida and the heat is my only enemy, it never gets cold enough here to worry about. Have you ever tested radiant heat barrier with an air gap for heat differentials with and without?
@@db0nn3r I'm considering the same kind of structure in Nigeria where it is hot almost all year round. How do you ensure that this doesn't get too hot in the day and some nights when the weather is hot till 2:30am?
I suggest a vapper barrier prior to any of the 5. What I was planning to use is a product called "super therm". It's a ceramic that can be applied on the exterior and interior. And if your intent is to build a home. And clad the exterior with other materials. This would be a great way to insulate. Thanks for the great videos by the way!
I agree on the use of Super Therm. Used on the outside of the can, Super Therm will block the summer heat (it is ceramic based and sprays on like paint.) Used on the inside it will provide the vapor barrier. The manufacturer, Superior Coating Solutions has good products but little in the way of Canadian distribution.
I looked into it a long time ago and it was as expensive as 2" of spray foam and didn't provide any R-value. A good coat of Gloss White paint performs well at reflecting the heat away and is a fraction of the cost.
@@TheContainerGuyTV Agreed. Any type of paint-like wafer thin coating is a con because it provides virtually no R-value (despite what the manufacturer claims).
Great video. What is the best way if i have 5 containers of 40feet on top on each other? I live in Canada and it gets vert cold. Each container will be a appartment
On the flash and bat method mentioned, what size studs would you use? Since it's 6 in of insulation, would you have to use 2x6s or could you get by with 2x4 somehow?
Both stud sizes work. With the Wood Stud Brackets, there's about 2" of room above the stud to fit the spray foam then jam batts in the stud cavity afterwards. I did this at my cabin in a 2x8 wall and it's been amazing.
What is your advice for insulating a container home in a hot and humid environment such as an island as Aruba in the Caribbean, where temperatures are between 25C to 35C degrees and lots of salt in the air?
If a fella was going to live in the container, and keep the humidity as low as a dehumidifier could get it and heat it with a wood stove, wouldn’t fiberglass be ok? My camper is aluminum on the outside with fiberglass and i don’t have mold.
Why not spray foam the outside which blocks the hot sun from heating up the cold morning metal? You don't loose any inside space. I have been moisture dripped upon by inside spray foam in a container, more than once. And I have also been warm in a steel quonset hut that had about 4" of foam on the outside. ?
Check our videos on Exterior Studding Brackets. We'll dive back into this topic shortly once we're moved into our new shop. ua-cam.com/video/Y5oEXhtmLEQ/v-deo.html
You will spend additional money to cover the foam since it will be exposed to the elements. A few inches can be saved by sealing the inside with 1 inch foam then use another type of insulation an minimal studs size 2 x1 vs 2x4 since no internal structure is necessary.
What do you think about spray foam on the interior AND exterior of a container? Would I have any worries about condensation? Do you think I'd need any additional vapor barrier after 2 layers of closed cell?
Of course not. Only need one side as long as it's even coverage. Both sides is a good idea if you can't get every nook and cranny and it's the best glue out there to hold the structure together.
@ Right on… so one layer of closed cell on the inside is good? Does that layer provide an adequate vapor barrier? Im in a pretty cold climate on the water near Ontario, its gonna be a house, not storage
Also, thank you so much for the response and for all the information you provide through your videos. Theyre really helpful, and the animations are great!!! Thanks a lot!!!
Hi, I will be building a bunker and living container on top with 2 retired no cooling system,refrigerated containers . 40 ft any advice have you tried one ,any videos? Thanks
I live in the tropics, and have a friend that wants to make a beach bar. It will have liquor and refrigerators in it, so it should not get too hot in there, and will be opened almost daily across the front. No walls or wood studs inside. Can it just be spray foamed and painted? I can't find info about containers located in places that are warm or hot and humid. Never cools here. Thank you
My dad welded 8 shipping container together then buried them into a bunker like home. I love the idea to insulate the walls for a warmer home. due to i am always at 63 F always. we have solar light through the roof and a wood stove. but it is a huge layout and heating is a challenge at best. I would love to talk to someone who really understands shipping containers although there is not many who do. at least i have not found anyone yet. i would love to be new flooring in but fearful of ruining my teakwood and mahogany floors. i would love to seal them or something so i could mop and care for them better. any idea's would be helpful.
You didn't stipulate whether it is open or closed cell foam on the flash and batt method? I'm assuming closed cell foam for the rigid improvement and sealing?
Closed cell to get the vapour barrier then mineral wool inside of that. I would keep the rated r-values similar for each material type. If you go R12 foam and R28 mineral wool the dew point will likely still happen in the batt insulation which isn't good. 3" of foam and an R14 batt works excellent in my experience (my cabin basement).
. Thank you for this video. .2 questions.. 1..what insullation system would you recommend for a wood dry Kiln? .. with moisture being a constant issue from the process of lumber drying? 2.. how can you be contacted? email or phone number..?.. I have already sent an email to the one listed for that covers all the locations you have in Canada on your website but I imagine with the volume you get it.. fell through the cracks.. I have a couple questions concerning the AC Infinity fans ..A.C. customer service has been unable to help.. but I'm thinking you probably will know... I understand you're very busy.. so the questions will be brief. thanks
Probably best to buy an ex-reefer with the stainless steel interiors for a kiln. They'll already very well insulated. Ask here or email video@thecontainerguy.ca
Iv watched a lot of videos on how to insulate a cargo van, and iv never understood how people get away with putting wood framing against the metal van frame and then spray foaming around it. In your video, you said to make sure there is room to get behind you wood framing (totally understand your reasoning) but I was curious if you think there is any difference between a metal container vs a metal vehicle. I mean, if your right, there’s going to be LOTS of unhappy van life and van camping people.
Just reference , what area of the country are you located ? I live in Mid Texas. Wondering what the differences would be compared to something like the Midwest
To be clear, I am only talking about INTERIOR INSULATION in this post. Climate plays a huge role in the building envelope. Humid/Tropical climates require a similar envelope to Arctic climates. Spray foam is your only option in these climates. Mild/Temperate climates are similar to Arid/Desert Climates. You can roll the dice in these climates and try and save costs and use other insulation methods. Hopefully in the next year or so, I'll have example wall systems available for people to download on our website.
Tell us how to solve the mold problem in a naked container. Hot humid air during the day and cool at night equals condensation. Can we use an exhaust fan in the back of the container?
A cost comparison seems like a key factor that was missed. That's a big deal to most folks. Another key factor is the ability to DIY. I've looked for DIY spray foam kits and got sticker shock.
Hi @TheContainerGuyTV I’d like to build with a number of containers. 1 - How can I best insulate from the outside, to avoid rust, moisture and the container heating up? 2 - Is it possible to double the width by joining two containers, or does this entirely remove the structural integrity? Thanks!
Hi Tammara. I encourage you to scroll through the videos on our channel. There are a lot of good lessons there on structural connections. The exterior insulation is best with exterior studding brackets, stud with 2x6, spray foam 2" of closed cell foam, then pack the rest of the stud cavity with mineral wool insulation. Use Zip sheathing with taped seams, vertically strap with 1x4, then install your siding.
I have dozens of videos saying how bad it is. We are working towards a method to safely use batts for mild / dry climates. If one wants to use them on the interior, you won't be left with much space. Better to use Exterior Studding Brackets (see other videos) and keep the mold risk outside of your occupancy space.
I'm in Vegas. You only have time to walk in and walk out of a 40 ft container before passing out. The temp gets up to 140 degrees, inside the container. What kind of insulation do you suggest?
To avoid the radiant heat gain in Vegas, paint the roof (or entire container) gloss white. We must acknowledge that insulation is not Air Conditioning. It only slows down the temperature swings from outside to inside. If you plan to air condition the interior: Similar to the cold, you'll want a high R-value wall system. A great system would be 1" or 2" of 2lb closed cell foam and 3.5" mineral wool batt in the stud cavity. Same as I suggest at the end of the video. This will give your air conditioning a fighting chance to keep up in the heat of summer.
Hey The Container Guy I am using a container for a tool room and only want it to be Insulate outside. The front will be a cement plate, and styrofoam on a wooden frame between that and the container.. Should i leave space to air between the metal and Insulate? Any other adviser when I do it outside. Thanks for a great channel
ua-cam.com/video/dJ3UzilrQ8A/v-deo.html There's a good video to watch about a very similar wall system. We also have our bunkhouse build that we'll showcase shortly that uses our exterior studding brackets and a similar wall system to what you're referencing. Your best bet is to spray foam the outside so there is no air cavity anywhere between the steel container and the insulation.
@@TheContainerGuyTV Thanks for the answer ;-) Foam are not a option, way to expensive here in Denmark. I was thinking to use mineral wool close to the metal, and a kind of thin asphalt cardboard as outer layer on the wood, and then the cement plates. Will I get any moisture problems inside that, and do I need some air vent in the wall.? The inside of the container will be only the metal, and will be heated in the winter.
We used mineral wool in this build so there's a lot of ideas in here! We figure we definitely need a breathable space in between the container and insulation. Hopefully it helps answer your questions. ua-cam.com/video/EnG8MxD9W6s/v-deo.html - Video Team
If using the container solely for storage in zone 3, how well would steel studs with mineral rock insulation work? What are your recommendations for insulating a quad side door 40' for storage, especially all 5 doors economically?
So strange that reefers (refrigerated containers) are not/never/rarely mentioned. You have 4 to 6” of closed cell insulation on all 6 sides with the benefit of a flat heavy duty stainless steel skin on the inside that can be painted, not to mention that the refrigeration unit that can be sold. Why spend all this time and money to do exactly that with other materials? So yes, there is more cutting and welding but this is largely offset by the benefits if the design is smart. Also, reefers are more likely to have transported non toxic materials.
Once you put studs and all that insulation on the inside you barely have enough room left inside for living space. Better would be studs on the outside, with insulation between them, and then skin the whole thing with plywood and a roof. But now you've built a shed...
No one should he living in a single shipping container that isn’t pushed out at a minimum. A double container is ideal. Bedroom/living room spaces should have one wall pushed out 3’-4’ on site. The cutout panel can be welded back on after the steel frame has been extended. Scraps from other parts of the build can be used for the sides of the push out. It would make the living spaces liveable.
See this video, 2min mark. This should be WAY more common in the shipping container home world. ua-cam.com/video/B3JVUbhA4Bo/v-deo.htmlsi=vAK_EQawCIhXLibp
I was thinking of buying an empty plot of land and doing my own container tiny home. Is there a DIY kit to foaming a container or would it be cheaper to hire a pro?
Fully agree with the flash and batt method Another help to those in hot climates is White painted roofs As it does not absorb heat like darker colors
Great and informative information. And I appreciate how you got straight to the point. Thank you!
I’m Zone 2, 100* for 6mo a year. It’s InsoFast outside clad in board & batten. Inside it’s 2.5” of closed cell spray foam, 1.5” air gap, then advanced framing wall with staggered studs and insulation. Goal is passive house standards, minimize heat gain, noise abatement. Each exterior container is double width, so losing a few inches is irrelevant.
The Goat always dropping gems!!
Makin me blush 😂
Excellent video, lots of great information, how many vents are required for rock wool batting?
Great info, thanks for sharing. I live in the carribean and we get 11-13ft of rain per year and the climate is 75-88 degrees Farenheit all year-round. What do you recommend for my container framing and insulation? Steel or wood framing? Best insulation for jungle humid environment?
Great video! I’d like to see a comparison of all 5 insulation types, and the bonus type. Temp outside vs inside, cost of materials, time to install, etc. Maybe some thermal camera shots too please.
When you put drywall over the studs and Spray Foam, won't you run into the same issue with condensation between the drywall and Spray Foam?
if I am using closed cell spray foam do I have to vent the container. If so, whats the best way to do it?
Thanks
Hey man, thanks for the solid content. Just bought a beat up 40hc and I’m learning a lot. I have a question, I’m in south Florida and the heat is my only enemy, it never gets cold enough here to worry about. Have you ever tested radiant heat barrier with an air gap for heat differentials with and without?
@@db0nn3r I'm considering the same kind of structure in Nigeria where it is hot almost all year round. How do you ensure that this doesn't get too hot in the day and some nights when the weather is hot till 2:30am?
I suggest a vapper barrier prior to any of the 5. What I was planning to use is a product called "super therm". It's a ceramic that can be applied on the exterior and interior. And if your intent is to build a home. And clad the exterior with other materials. This would be a great way to insulate.
Thanks for the great videos by the way!
I agree on the use of Super Therm. Used on the outside of the can, Super Therm will block the summer heat (it is ceramic based and sprays on like paint.) Used on the inside it will provide the vapor barrier. The manufacturer, Superior Coating Solutions has good products but little in the way of Canadian distribution.
I looked into it a long time ago and it was as expensive as 2" of spray foam and didn't provide any R-value. A good coat of Gloss White paint performs well at reflecting the heat away and is a fraction of the cost.
@@TheContainerGuyTV Agreed. Any type of paint-like wafer thin coating is a con because it provides virtually no R-value (despite what the manufacturer claims).
Very informative. Have you tried insulating medical facility especially the ones needed lead insulation?
Great video. What is the best way if i have 5 containers of 40feet on top on each other? I live in Canada and it gets vert cold. Each container will be a appartment
On the flash and bat method mentioned, what size studs would you use? Since it's 6 in of insulation, would you have to use 2x6s or could you get by with 2x4 somehow?
Excellent!!! Excellent !!!!😊
Both stud sizes work. With the Wood Stud Brackets, there's about 2" of room above the stud to fit the spray foam then jam batts in the stud cavity afterwards. I did this at my cabin in a 2x8 wall and it's been amazing.
Curious on how the battens are installed. Are they screwed on or are the glued on to the container walls. Is that what the studd brackets are for?
Is there a way to insulate the outside leaving as much room inside as possible?
Yes, there are plenty of examples out there using exterior cladding. You still have to be careful with moisture
I think this channel has a video showing how to do that.
ua-cam.com/video/Y5oEXhtmLEQ/v-deo.html
So if I was to use fibre glass and not put vapour barrier before boarding would this be okay as there is no vapour barrier sandwiching the insulation?
What is your advice for insulating a container home in a hot and humid environment such as an island as Aruba in the Caribbean, where temperatures are between 25C to 35C degrees and lots of salt in the air?
Great question. Waiting for an answer!
If a fella was going to live in the container, and keep the humidity as low as a dehumidifier could get it and heat it with a wood stove, wouldn’t fiberglass be ok? My camper is aluminum on the outside with fiberglass and i don’t have mold.
Quick question will 2 inch of spray foam on a shipping container will give me a thermal barrier for the temps in Puerto Rico??
Why not spray foam the outside which blocks the hot sun from heating up the cold morning metal? You don't loose any inside space. I have been moisture dripped upon by inside spray foam in a container, more than once. And I have also been warm in a steel quonset hut that had about 4" of foam on the outside. ?
You would lose the benefit of a steel exterior as far as wear-and-tear are concerned, but it has been done plenty of times.
Check our videos on Exterior Studding Brackets. We'll dive back into this topic shortly once we're moved into our new shop.
ua-cam.com/video/Y5oEXhtmLEQ/v-deo.html
You will spend additional money to cover the foam since it will be exposed to the elements. A few inches can be saved by sealing the inside with 1 inch foam then use another type of insulation an minimal studs size 2 x1 vs 2x4 since no internal structure is necessary.
Camp Casey?
He never said you couldn't
What do you think about spray foam on the interior AND exterior of a container? Would I have any worries about condensation? Do you think I'd need any additional vapor barrier after 2 layers of closed cell?
Of course not. Only need one side as long as it's even coverage. Both sides is a good idea if you can't get every nook and cranny and it's the best glue out there to hold the structure together.
@ Right on… so one layer of closed cell on the inside is good? Does that layer provide an adequate vapor barrier? Im in a pretty cold climate on the water near Ontario, its gonna be a house, not storage
Also, thank you so much for the response and for all the information you provide through your videos. Theyre really helpful, and the animations are great!!! Thanks a lot!!!
@@fruitbooter79 we're in Saskatchewan. What works here works in ON.
@@TheContainerGuyTV Youre the man!!! Thanks buddy
Hi,
I will be building a bunker and living container on top with 2 retired no cooling system,refrigerated containers .
40 ft any advice have you tried one ,any videos? Thanks
Can I still use fiberglass without vapor barrier and I’ll be ok ? In a hot climate country btw
If i steel stud and spray foam is there a need to vent the container with a skylight or big walk vents?
No, don't do it. Better off to install a window (or two) and open it when you want air movement and close it when you don't.
What a bout the exterior part of the container to isolate?
I live in the tropics, and have a friend that wants to make a beach bar. It will have liquor and refrigerators in it, so it should not get too hot in there, and will be opened almost daily across the front. No walls or wood studs inside. Can it just be spray foamed and painted? I can't find info about containers located in places that are warm or hot and humid. Never cools here. Thank you
on the double wide video u welded steel to the long side base
on the other video you say only to brace the corner please explain why
My dad welded 8 shipping container together then buried them into a bunker like home. I love the idea to insulate the walls for a warmer home. due to i am always at 63 F always. we have solar light through the roof and a wood stove. but it is a huge layout and heating is a challenge at best. I would love to talk to someone who really understands shipping containers although there is not many who do. at least i have not found anyone yet. i would love to be new flooring in but fearful of ruining my teakwood and mahogany floors. i would love to seal them or something so i could mop and care for them better. any idea's would be helpful.
just wondering something...if you frame the container in wood or your steel system, which makes the container heavier?
You didn't stipulate whether it is open or closed cell foam on the flash and batt method? I'm assuming closed cell foam for the rigid improvement and sealing?
Closed cell to get the vapour barrier then mineral wool inside of that. I would keep the rated r-values similar for each material type. If you go R12 foam and R28 mineral wool the dew point will likely still happen in the batt insulation which isn't good. 3" of foam and an R14 batt works excellent in my experience (my cabin basement).
What 2x4''s do you use inside.
Can we insulate the container from outside?
. Thank you for this video.
.2 questions..
1..what insullation system would you recommend for a wood dry Kiln? .. with moisture being a constant issue from the process of lumber drying?
2.. how can you be contacted? email or phone number..?.. I have already sent an email to the one listed for that covers all the locations you have in Canada on your website but I imagine with the volume you get it.. fell through the cracks.. I have a couple questions concerning the AC Infinity fans ..A.C. customer service has been unable to help.. but I'm thinking you probably will know... I understand you're very busy.. so the questions will be brief.
thanks
Probably best to buy an ex-reefer with the stainless steel interiors for a kiln. They'll already very well insulated.
Ask here or email video@thecontainerguy.ca
thank you
What are your thoughts on spray foaming the underside of container?
We do it lots 👍🏼
Iv watched a lot of videos on how to insulate a cargo van, and iv never understood how people get away with putting wood framing against the metal van frame and then spray foaming around it. In your video, you said to make sure there is room to get behind you wood framing (totally understand your reasoning) but I was curious if you think there is any difference between a metal container vs a metal vehicle. I mean, if your right, there’s going to be LOTS of unhappy van life and van camping people.
Thermal bridging is thermal bridging. Zero difference 😂
Just reference , what area of the country are you located ? I live in Mid Texas. Wondering what the differences would be compared to something like the Midwest
They are in Canada
To be clear, I am only talking about INTERIOR INSULATION in this post.
Climate plays a huge role in the building envelope.
Humid/Tropical climates require a similar envelope to Arctic climates. Spray foam is your only option in these climates.
Mild/Temperate climates are similar to Arid/Desert Climates. You can roll the dice in these climates and try and save costs and use other insulation methods.
Hopefully in the next year or so, I'll have example wall systems available for people to download on our website.
How much does it cost to spray foam?
How much to do this to a 40ft container roof price only and then complete price. Boarded up and everything to make it a good r rating.
Hey can anyone tell me if I need to ventilate my shipping contain even though its insulated or I don't have to because its insulated ??
Tell us how to solve the mold problem in a naked container. Hot humid air during the day and cool at night equals condensation. Can we use an exhaust fan in the back of the container?
@@Jim-h9u wirly birds on the roof to vent, I put two on my naked cintainer to store my belongings while I travelled Australia for a year
Curious which video was the wood stud brackets one? I just got 2 containers and live in a hot dry climate so mods are in order for heat
ua-cam.com/video/kEo9z4HA3D8/v-deo.html
A cost comparison seems like a key factor that was missed. That's a big deal to most folks. Another key factor is the ability to DIY. I've looked for DIY spray foam kits and got sticker shock.
Thanks for sharing this with me 😁👍
why use 2x4 on the ceiling if you spray foam?
What about the exterior so you're not losing precious Interior space?
Please I want to get a direct training from you sir
Use the corrugated white foam on the outside of your container - and clad on to that ,
Hi @TheContainerGuyTV
I’d like to build with a number of containers.
1 - How can I best insulate from the outside, to avoid rust, moisture and the container heating up?
2 - Is it possible to double the width by joining two containers, or does this entirely remove the structural integrity?
Thanks!
Hi Tammara.
I encourage you to scroll through the videos on our channel. There are a lot of good lessons there on structural connections.
The exterior insulation is best with exterior studding brackets, stud with 2x6, spray foam 2" of closed cell foam, then pack the rest of the stud cavity with mineral wool insulation.
Use Zip sheathing with taped seams, vertically strap with 1x4, then install your siding.
Do you habe a video bats and mineral insulation procedure
I have dozens of videos saying how bad it is. We are working towards a method to safely use batts for mild / dry climates. If one wants to use them on the interior, you won't be left with much space. Better to use Exterior Studding Brackets (see other videos) and keep the mold risk outside of your occupancy space.
I'm in Vegas. You only have time to walk in and walk out of a 40 ft container before passing out. The temp gets up to 140 degrees, inside the container. What kind of insulation do you suggest?
To avoid the radiant heat gain in Vegas, paint the roof (or entire container) gloss white. We must acknowledge that insulation is not Air Conditioning. It only slows down the temperature swings from outside to inside.
If you plan to air condition the interior:
Similar to the cold, you'll want a high R-value wall system. A great system would be 1" or 2" of 2lb closed cell foam and 3.5" mineral wool batt in the stud cavity. Same as I suggest at the end of the video. This will give your air conditioning a fighting chance to keep up in the heat of summer.
I've seen people build a second shed style roof to stop direct sunlight.
Painting the exterior white will remarkably suppress solar heating. That plus most any insulation will make AC effective.
Love the videos.
we can use Thermocol , Polystyrene
Hey The Container Guy
I am using a container for a tool room and only want it to be Insulate outside.
The front will be a cement plate, and styrofoam on a wooden frame between that and the container.. Should i leave space to air between the metal and Insulate?
Any other adviser when I do it outside.
Thanks for a great channel
ua-cam.com/video/dJ3UzilrQ8A/v-deo.html
There's a good video to watch about a very similar wall system. We also have our bunkhouse build that we'll showcase shortly that uses our exterior studding brackets and a similar wall system to what you're referencing.
Your best bet is to spray foam the outside so there is no air cavity anywhere between the steel container and the insulation.
@@TheContainerGuyTV Thanks for the answer ;-)
Foam are not a option, way to expensive here in Denmark. I was thinking to use mineral wool close to the metal, and a kind of thin asphalt cardboard as outer layer on the wood, and then the cement plates. Will I get any moisture problems inside that, and do I need some air vent in the wall.? The inside of the container will be only the metal, and will be heated in the winter.
We used mineral wool in this build so there's a lot of ideas in here! We figure we definitely need a breathable space in between the container and insulation. Hopefully it helps answer your questions. ua-cam.com/video/EnG8MxD9W6s/v-deo.html - Video Team
@@TheContainerGuyTV Thanks.. A lot of nice info ;-)
If using the container solely for storage in zone 3, how well would steel studs with mineral rock insulation work?
What are your recommendations for insulating a quad side door 40' for storage, especially all 5 doors economically?
So why not insulate on the outside?
Wow good
So strange that reefers (refrigerated containers) are not/never/rarely mentioned. You have 4 to 6” of closed cell insulation on all 6 sides with the benefit of a flat heavy duty stainless steel skin on the inside that can be painted, not to mention that the refrigeration unit that can be sold.
Why spend all this time and money to do exactly that with other materials?
So yes, there is more cutting and welding but this is largely offset by the benefits if the design is smart. Also, reefers are more likely to have transported non toxic materials.
@@peteaulit 46k for a 20ft reefer is probably why
I have heard that spray foam is toxic. It’s fine for storage buildings but you don’t want to live in there and breathing that air all day.
Once you put studs and all that insulation on the inside you barely have enough room left inside for living space.
Better would be studs on the outside, with insulation between them, and then skin the whole thing with plywood and a roof. But now you've built a shed...
He already has kits for external framing.
This vid is only about internal framing.
No one should he living in a single shipping container that isn’t pushed out at a minimum. A double container is ideal. Bedroom/living room spaces should have one wall pushed out 3’-4’ on site. The cutout panel can be welded back on after the steel frame has been extended. Scraps from other parts of the build can be used for the sides of the push out. It would make the living spaces liveable.
See this video, 2min mark. This should be WAY more common in the shipping container home world. ua-cam.com/video/B3JVUbhA4Bo/v-deo.htmlsi=vAK_EQawCIhXLibp
Putting studs all over the inside totally defeats the advantage of a shipping container.
Hi
Can you help me to remove foam from chilled containers
I have used chilled containers for scrap
"Cementicious"
Spray foam looks like people are wearing a covid suit
This could also be an alternative: ua-cam.com/video/MB6MvHel9hQ/v-deo.html
✔️ 🔺️
spray foaming is toxic
False
I was thinking of buying an empty plot of land and doing my own container tiny home. Is there a DIY kit to foaming a container or would it be cheaper to hire a pro?
space paint developed by nasa, graphs show results on metal usbc r-39 in one coat
I’ve never heard of it. Where can you get it?
you are special most are ad hominem, super therm is one company
why use 2x4 on the ceiling if you spray foam?