Thank you. I was trying to find more info on what resistance was correct. Everything I kept reading said below 1 ohm, but most video showed either .1 or .4 ohms. Mine was reading .8. Replaced and it works. Thanks.
Excellent video. Troubleshooting the exact magnetron, I measured a short across the terminals as expected, but 63 ohms from either terminal to the case. The local appliance shop has a $75 bench fee, plus the cost of repair parts & labor,. I just ordered the replacement part on Amazon for $39.00.
Thank you for the info, testing mine, yes it is having a reading, so that is not good for sure. My question is about the awful smell that seems to be coming out from the magnetron, is it a symptom of bad magnetron or something else ? There doesn`t seem to be burnt wires or connections. Thanks
When the display showed OL on your multi-meter you said it means OverLoad at minute 4:10, but OL on a multi-meter means an Open Line, and that's exactly what you're looking at (an Open Line) when you're checking the lead to the body. And it shouldn't have a connection, it should be an open line between the leads and the body.
Over Limit (OL) is what I understand it to be. If you have the range held on a voltage reading to say 10V range and measure a 12V battery you will get the same warning OL
@@Heisenberg2A That can be true on some multimeters, but even then that would only apply when you are measuring something that is out of the range of the multimeter (like your voltage example above). But that's not what you're measuring in your video, so that kind of an out of range situation does not apply in this case. What you're measuring in your video is whether there's a simple continuity or a connection between the wire connector lead and the body of the magnetron (which there shouldn't be any), and that's exactly what you're getting - no continuity, in other words - the same thing as an Open Line (which is OL for short). And that's what that OL is when you're simply checking for continuity, instead of measuring for a unit that could possibly go over the limit of the multimeter and damage it, like a Voltage.
@@specialprojects7504 an "open" is infinite resistance, this is outside the range of the let's say 10MOhm scale. It is outside the upper limit, hence Over Limit. If you set a meter to 10 Ohm range and attach a 50 ohm resistor you will get the same message: OL . That doesn't mean you have an "Open Line", the meter is telling you that the resistance is greater than what it can measure. If you tell people OL means "open line" you are confusing them and it could be dangerous. If I have my meter on AC volts and set to a 10 volt range and put it in a light socket it will read OL. This should tell you the voltage is greater than 10VAC and unknown since the meter can't read it. OL doesn't change meanings between multimeter modes.
@@Heisenberg2A But in this case it means OPEN LINE, because the two probes are not touching, it can't over limit nothing when nothing is touching nothing. On my Major MT21 Multimeter when I put it 1.5V DC scale and measure 12V DC, it displays 1. meaning overload.
@@KobusBreeda meter will default to OL when it can't do one of two things. One is there's nothing to test as in the leads aren't getting any signals, or two, the leads detecting out of limits according to the scale the meter is on. OL does not mean open line, it means Out of Limit. In other words, the meter thinks it's out of limits and again it's according to the scale you set the meter on. It's either below or above the scale, and therefore say OL/ Out of Limits of scale.
FYI, All of these tests can pass and the Magnetron can still be bad. My Samsung OTR Microwave Magnetron Tested Good but wouldn't heat. Replaced it yesterday with a new one and now heats.
Magnetrons can be bad and still pass these continuity tests. Remove and visually inspect the magnetron for cracked magnets, if they are cracked the unit is bad.
@@mikestudmuffin4549robably near zero ohms unless you have an ohmmeter capable of measuring milliohms. That is not really a primary. It is the filament heater. A magnetron is basically a vacuum diode.
Mine was reading all ok and according to your test and there was no sign of physical damage as i was sure and had tested transformer, diode and capacitor i went ahead and replaced magnetron and it fixed the issue, so it can read all ok yet be defective.
Thanks for your video, here I have a question how do I know the right ohms to replace for the new magnetron? Mines under the magnetron there are a bunch of numbers like this: A354 2M240J(L) 6E35 34 RC1 CK. thanks for your time
Could you please recommend the unit that last for longer? Looking on reviews, almost any of them had a failure related to magnetron: Samsung, Panasonic, Toshiba etc...
@@dinohunter7176 - They're all similar quality and cranked out China. Most makers don't even bother branding them anymore because most users will chuck the oven before repairing it.
Just had one go out and the filement to ground was 18 ohms... nearly a dead short. It worked good until the last time I used it when a very loud humming noise and a burnt smell coming from the microwave oven.
Thanks for this video... Please, how do you figure which megatron to buy. I fixed mine and i noticed that the guy that fixed it used a megatron of a smaller microwave instead of replacing the same old one. i am using LG MODEL: MS3949CS /00 230V ~ 50Hz MAX.1450W 1450 2450MHz 1000W the details are according to the sticker on my MICROWAVE
Primary circuit? Nope it’s the filament circuit and any resistance you read from either filament lead to ground is leakage from the capacitors built into the connector. The connector can be replaced. Amazon
He already showed it. Any one of the two leads from the magnetron to chassis/metal body ground is testing the filament. First test is for checking the filament continuity, second test was testing a filament short to ground.
Useful up to a point. At no stage did you test if the unit was producing microwave radiation, just that various electrical values were within range ... just sayin'
Stands for "Outside Limit" Meaning the reading is outside of the range that the meter can read/display. An example would be if you were trying to test a high voltage diode, the resistance would be too high for the meter to read. However if you hook up a 9-volt battery and test again, it will then be within the limits that the meter can display. 👍🏻
This is a beautiful example of someone having limited knowledge trying to teach others. Take my advice and get your education elsewhere. There are so many other, much more qualified and competent, UA-camrs with the correct methods on testing a magnetrons. This video is a joke.
Thank you. I was trying to find more info on what resistance was correct. Everything I kept reading said below 1 ohm, but most video showed either .1 or .4 ohms. Mine was reading .8. Replaced and it works. Thanks.
Very straightforward, well done. 👍🏻👍🏻 Simple.
thanks, you solved my problem with all the numbers and letters on the magnetron label
This was very informative but OL on a meter means “open Line” not over load
Excellent video. Troubleshooting the exact magnetron, I measured a short across the terminals as expected, but 63 ohms from either terminal to the case. The local appliance shop has a $75 bench fee, plus the cost of repair parts & labor,. I just ordered the replacement part on Amazon for $39.00.
Thank you for the info, testing mine, yes it is having a reading, so that is not good for sure. My question is about the awful smell that seems to be coming out from the magnetron, is it a symptom of bad magnetron or something else ? There doesn`t seem to be burnt wires or connections. Thanks
When the display showed OL on your multi-meter you said it means OverLoad at minute 4:10, but OL on a multi-meter means an Open Line, and that's exactly what you're looking at (an Open Line) when you're checking the lead to the body. And it shouldn't have a connection, it should be an open line between the leads and the body.
Over Limit (OL) is what I understand it to be. If you have the range held on a voltage reading to say 10V range and measure a 12V battery you will get the same warning OL
@@Heisenberg2A That can be true on some multimeters, but even then that would only apply when you are measuring something that is out of the range of the multimeter (like your voltage example above). But that's not what you're measuring in your video, so that kind of an out of range situation does not apply in this case. What you're measuring in your video is whether there's a simple continuity or a connection between the wire connector lead and the body of the magnetron (which there shouldn't be any), and that's exactly what you're getting - no continuity, in other words - the same thing as an Open Line (which is OL for short). And that's what that OL is when you're simply checking for continuity, instead of measuring for a unit that could possibly go over the limit of the multimeter and damage it, like a Voltage.
@@specialprojects7504 an "open" is infinite resistance, this is outside the range of the let's say 10MOhm scale. It is outside the upper limit, hence Over Limit. If you set a meter to 10 Ohm range and attach a 50 ohm resistor you will get the same message: OL . That doesn't mean you have an "Open Line", the meter is telling you that the resistance is greater than what it can measure. If you tell people OL means "open line" you are confusing them and it could be dangerous. If I have my meter on AC volts and set to a 10 volt range and put it in a light socket it will read OL. This should tell you the voltage is greater than 10VAC and unknown since the meter can't read it. OL doesn't change meanings between multimeter modes.
@@Heisenberg2A But in this case it means OPEN LINE, because the two probes are not touching, it can't over limit nothing when nothing is touching nothing. On my Major MT21 Multimeter when I put it 1.5V DC scale and measure 12V DC, it displays 1. meaning overload.
@@KobusBreeda meter will default to OL when it can't do one of two things. One is there's nothing to test as in the leads aren't getting any signals, or two, the leads detecting out of limits according to the scale the meter is on. OL does not mean open line, it means Out of Limit. In other words, the meter thinks it's out of limits and again it's according to the scale you set the meter on. It's either below or above the scale, and therefore say OL/ Out of Limits of scale.
FYI, All of these tests can pass and the Magnetron can still be bad. My Samsung OTR Microwave Magnetron Tested Good but wouldn't heat. Replaced it yesterday with a new one and now heats.
Magnetrons can be bad and still pass these continuity tests. Remove and visually inspect the magnetron for cracked magnets, if they are cracked the unit is bad.
Totally agree. Had bad magnetron which was making loud growling noise, but checks ok with the meter.
Thanks for the feedback - excellent point.
@Mike Studmuffin I get the same 0 reading too. Not sure how to interpret it.
@@mikestudmuffin4549robably near zero ohms unless you have an ohmmeter capable of measuring milliohms. That is not really a primary. It is the filament heater. A magnetron is basically a vacuum diode.
Always test your leads to check the resistance in your leads by touching them together
Mine was reading all ok and according to your test and there was no sign of physical damage as i was sure and had tested transformer, diode and capacitor i went ahead and replaced magnetron and it fixed the issue, so it can read all ok yet be defective.
Thanks for your video, here I have a question how do I know the right ohms to replace for the new magnetron? Mines under the magnetron there are a bunch of numbers like this: A354 2M240J(L) 6E35 34 RC1 CK. thanks for your time
Very well presented! Thank you! What causes a magnetron to go bad?
Thanks for the video.
20 years working with microwaves, LG was the only magnetrons I changed.
Could you please recommend the unit that last for longer? Looking on reviews, almost any of them had a failure related to magnetron: Samsung, Panasonic, Toshiba etc...
@@dinohunter7176 - They're all similar quality and cranked out China. Most makers don't even bother branding them anymore because most users will chuck the oven before repairing it.
Just had one go out and the filement to ground was 18 ohms... nearly a dead short. It worked good until the last time I used it when a very loud humming noise and a burnt smell coming from the microwave oven.
the filament terminal connector can also be bad. the thing containing the connect pins. These are chep
Thanks for this video...
Please, how do you figure which megatron to buy. I fixed mine and i noticed that the guy that fixed it used a megatron of a smaller microwave instead of replacing the same old one.
i am using
LG
MODEL: MS3949CS /00
230V ~ 50Hz MAX.1450W
1450 2450MHz 1000W
the details are according to the sticker on my MICROWAVE
Good practical 👍
Primary circuit? Nope it’s the filament circuit and any resistance you read from either filament lead to ground is leakage from the capacitors built into the connector. The connector can be replaced. Amazon
Super
Thank you much
this test only for the filament and filtering caps of the magnetron
I need a magnetron for Panasonic macro wave how can I get it?
Thanks!!!!😀
My magnetron 2m240 passed all these tests but still doesnt work?
Possibly the magnets or antenna are damaged. Or you could have a completely different fault.
How can check only filament with help of multi meter ? Plz suggest.
He already showed it. Any one of the two leads from the magnetron to chassis/metal body ground is testing the filament. First test is for checking the filament continuity, second test was testing a filament short to ground.
what happens if i install a 2m246 magnetron instead of a 2M226 one?
It depends on if the flux capacitor powers up or not.
@@SlickArmor it did, thanks!
CAN I USE A DIFFERENT MAGNETRON BAND
Useful up to a point. At no stage did you test if the unit was producing microwave radiation, just that various electrical values were within range ... just sayin'
Open leg not overload
Stands for "Outside Limit"
Meaning the reading is outside of the range that the meter can read/display. An example would be if you were trying to test a high voltage diode, the resistance would be too high for the meter to read. However if you hook up a 9-volt battery and test again, it will then be within the limits that the meter can display. 👍🏻
O.L. = Open Line
Or Open Loop
vulva women you very nice
Bro ol means , over limits,what's overload means 😂😂
Open line
you very anonymous
This is a beautiful example of someone having limited knowledge trying to teach others. Take my advice and get your education elsewhere. There are so many other, much more qualified and competent, UA-camrs with the correct methods on testing a magnetrons. This video is a joke.