For Christ's sake use wood blocks to hold up the chassis in case hydraulic pressure drops and cuts you leg off with the blade but great video again. As a retired paramedic IV seen too many crush injuries all for the price of a few wooden blocks. Stay safe
Thank you. mine did just that but just the front idler. Now i know how to adjust it. Beauty! thanks! i bought mine second hand and got none of the tools that did much good. will be able to fix tomorrow morning. Thank you again.
down loaded the owners manual. but it does not explain the lock nut and the using the square end of the threaded rod to release the tension. Thank you. Mine is an HT12. saves an old bloke weeks of slasher shovel and grubber.
Thanks Dave you're very good at explaining things. Because my place is very rocky I'm getting pretty good at putting tracks back on. Worst case I had both tracks off at once on the side of a rocky hill, then it pissed down with rain for two days. Eventually got one track back on then walked it down to flat ground using the bucket as a crutch. I think it's supposed to be character building. I see you got exactly the same tool kit that came with my Rhino. Keep the videos coming.
Just wanted to pass on Dave that the UME12P has upgraded the manual track adjustment you show in the vid to a spring mounted one in the idler wheel assembly. The 39mm nut and 18mm threaded shaft are still there but their function now is to locate the spring tensioner for the idler wheel assembly on the chassis frame. The .pdf manual only shows grease tensioners so no help there. Once you know abt the new design it seems a good one as tracks as they stretch over time won't lose their tension. The takeaway for 12P owners who throw a track is your vid shows probably the only way to get a track back on safely without too much drama. Rolling the track back on the drive wheel sprocket in reverse from the top also pulls the idler wheel assembly in compressing the spring. Worth passing on.
@@TreeChangeFarmer ... thanks for replying Dave ... I forgot to mention the 39mm nut is easily released as well as taken up with a cold chisel and light taps with a hammer on the 12 ... not much in it really but now a process not needed on the 12P. We're up here on the Evelyn Tableland far Nth Qld ... thanks for the vids they are a great help esp lavander prep and plantings so will give it a go.
Thanks a million for this video. Got my track back on my rhino today. My sprocket would not come off for me despite all my efforts. Had to buy a 10 ton Chinese gear puller in the end to get it off. Cost a hundred euro. Came off with a pop using that! Track went back on nice and easy just like yours. One thing i noticed about the idler is that there is a big spring pushing it forward, so when the track is off it doesn't look like it is far enough back to get the track back on. The sprocket pulled it back fine though with the track. Hope this helps anyone whose sprocket is too tight on the motor shaft!
Thanks for watching and commenting Tim. There are many ways to get the tracks on. Some use the crow bar method which I have tried but it does get a bit awkward by yourself. I will check my idler tensioner again. It might have a spring but was sure when I took it apart to clean it was just the bolt. Cheers Dave.
@@TreeChangeFarmer I'll be interested to see what you find, my UME12S is probably a tad newer than yours (mine's yanmar engined, built may 2022, and looks mostly the same but I've found a few little differences to yours) and mine definitely has a biggg spring as part of the tensioner assembly.
Thanks Dave for a very useful video, I have purchased a UME12P and only after 2 hours the right track came off. With the use of your video I was able to get it back on. Note the nut for the cog is 41mm and in the toolbox supplied with my 12P came a black 41mm ring spanner.
Glad you got it sorted. May not be the only time you have to put the tracks back on! I think my toolbox came with the correct size socket for the hub nut. Cheers Dave
Thanks Brenda. There are few ways to get the tracks back on and I have found this method is pretty quick and less trouble than forcing on with a crow bar. But each to their own. Cheers Dave.
Fantastic! I just bought a 1 ton digger and I thnik your technique would surely be useful in time to come. But as one commenter pointed out preferably put wooden blocks or stands underneath the digger when doing this.
hahaha..... "I sound like a pro but in fact the other one came off yesterday"......Love it🤣 My little 1 tonne has the grease nipple adjusters. A lot less tools in my tool box though. Good tips for WHEN it happens to me.
Hi from across the ditch Dave, great video. I have an almost identical excavator, it's a Rhino brand. My toolbox, same as yours has a 41mm ring spanner for undoing the track adjustor lock nut, much easier than a pipe wrench. The tool box had a seal on it when it arrived to show it hadn't been raided 😁.
Lock nut is 41mm and tensioner is 19mm. I got a 41mm spanner at trade tools and use my Kinchrome 19mm ratchet spanner on the tensioner. Takes about 3 mins to do using the right tools.
My UME12S toolkit came with a slogging spanner for the adjuster locknut. Last time my track came off when I overcooked a jump turn I just jammed a crowbar into the ground and levered it against the track while spinning the track and got it on that way. Whichever way works at the time is the best way.
Lock nut on my China machine is 36MM. Learned if l make sure tracks are tight BEFORE l head out l don't lose a track. They mostly stopped stretching by 75 hours. """NEVER""" put your leg under the blade with out blocking because the dog ain't gonna call for help!!!
I have the next model after this one with the Kubota engine and before the pilot model..Done 150 hours on it and haven’t dropped a track.. maybe because its only been operated in sandy soil. when operating in the loose sand I regularly lift it and run the tracks backwards and forwards to clear them. I have never had to adjust them. thanks to the video it doesn’t look like they are too problematic if it does drop one..
I think I didn't have trouble with my track tension until about 45 hours. Just tensioned them up again yesterday. Other viewers have commented that they settle done by about 75 hours. Cheers Dave.
Weird, I was looking up mini dump trucks to import one to Canada and found your channel. I have a 2 ton chines ex. and I have the grease fitting track tightener but still loose tracks on small rocks Haha!!
Thanks for watching and the comment. I think the older manual adjusters like I have are on the way out. Other brands of mini diggers of the same size have already gone to the grease adjusters. The New model UME12P may have them.
Gday Dave, I'm looking at buying the same mini-ex you have here, the UME12. Having reference vids such as yours are going to be handy, thanks! Question for you: I see the UME12P is now for sale with the joysticks and Kubota D902 motor. Are you happy with yours and your controls or think the little extra for joysticks and slightly more horsepower is worth it?
Hey Andrew. I was going to get some video of the new model last week but it sold straight away so now waiting for fresh stock. The photo I saw has the joysticks near the arm rest but also retains the centre console with the same controls which I don't understand? If buying a new one I would consider the UME12P but for me if I got, say, $15K for mine, would I pay nearly $5K for side joysticks. Probably not. The new model has a bigger engine but if the hydraulic pump (and there is only one to power all functions) is the same then it would feel like the older machines anyway. Thanks for the comment. Cheers Dave.
@@TreeChangeFarmer Appreciate the response Dave. I had a look in the photo and can see what you mean, seems like they've doubled up on the controls, except the joysticks at the front (not on the sides) are smaller than the UME12 base version. Seems like some strange backup option for controls? Also the UME12P has a hydraulic flow rate of 18.4L/min whereas your version the UME12 has 23.3L/min... so I don't know whats going on. Will give the fellas in Melbourne a call tomorrow to see if I can get some clarity. Once again thanks for the vids, you've got a sub from me.
@@AndrewHageman I almost bought a UME12P, but went with the UME12. The specs didn't make sense to me and whilst having the joystick near the armrest seems more professional, I only saw it as an extra place where something could go wrong. But in saying that I like how the UME12P has a more open floor space, whereas the UME12 has the fuel tank on the right side, which makes it hard to exit off the machine that side.
@@flat6fever680 The UHI UME 12 only has the one pump that is rated at 23litres/min. Most similar size Chinese diggers are the same. The bigger UHI machines (2T) have a single pump but greater capacity. This makes it harder to do two functions at once. The Bobcat E20 has three pumps that operate different functions. Two of the pumps are rated at 15 litres/min and the third at 11.5 litres/min. Total volume is 41.5 litres/min. Cheers Dave.
What is the size of that nut on the tensioner pulley belt?? I have a similar made in china model and i'm sure its the same...but i want to get a ratcheting wrench to tighten mine
I think it was 39mm which is a weird size. I thought they were all the same on these small Chinese diggers but have found out that there a number of variances. Might pay to get it off and measure correctly. Cheers Dave.
Keep up with the videos man love em I remember doing the same thing and the struggle of getting tracks back on This is the reason why I got rid of my cheap Chinese excavator was the constant detracting even at the proper tension and went out and brought myself a Sany sy16c no issues at all best thing I ever done.
@@TreeChangeFarmer you get fast at getting them on tho!!! My crappy chinglish manual says to use plenty of butter to tension up the track!!😅 ,it uses a screw tho
Hi Chris. Got the machine in Nov 2021. Just done a 50 hour service so not much work. Any I have done is well within the limits of the machine. Tracks have come of twice. No mechanical or warranty claims as yet!
@@TreeChangeFarmer i thought it may only be a motor. thanks! i have a small 1.2 ton Chinese mini excavator. i saw a bit of oil at one point..but it could have been from when i checked the engine oil..some leaked
Hi Dave, just recently bought the 1.2 pilot control model and find the tracks are constantly coming off the machine which is becoming extremely frustrating. I spent just as much time off the machine putting tracks back on as I spend actually using the machine. Do you find you are having these same issues with your machine?
Hi Jason. I had my machine for over a year before the first track came off. That was while crossing a deep ditch and turning at the same time (not normally done). When I have to turn I do it in little steps, maybe forward and then back and forward again. I don't try to turn 180 on just one track. When do you find your tracks are coming off? Adjustment may be out but usually they are tensioned OK when new til about 70 hours. Check that the drive and the idler pully are in a straight line and that the bottom rollers are not damaged. At the top there is a rail that centres the track . Have a look at that it case it is bent out of shape.
@@TreeChangeFarmer thanks for the reply Dave, everything looks fine and have been adjusted accordingly each time after they are put back on, machine currently has 14hrs on it with the tracks coming off 6 times in this period whilst levelling ground
Spray wd40 on cotter / split pin. Clean up your tracks and components before removal of track or any components. Learnt a couple of handy heads up info, thanks for the info.
Hey Dave, Some time back I mentioned the slogging spanner that should have been supplied in your Rhino/UME tool kit as it was with mine. If you look at point 2:18 in this video of a chap putting his Rhino track back on you'll see the exact slogging spanner I was referring to ua-cam.com/video/M3Q90dCtxPo/v-deo.html it really does make undoing and doing up that big locknut a little easier.
Thanks Dave. I haven't tried that method as shown in the video! Will still try to track down that spanner but the last few times I have tightened the tracks I have done the big nut up hand tight and then another quarter turn on the adjuster bolt and it seems to keep it all tight. I adjust my tracks up a lot tighter than shown in the video. Maybe only 5mm drop down from the bottom rollers as shown. Cheers Dave.
@@TreeChangeFarmer I have my tracks a bit looser. They are short tracks so there's not a huge amount of stretch when an object gets caught or they become loaded up with crap. I keep them that bit loose so that if a decent sized rock or two gets caught between sprocket and track (which happens to me from time to time) it can travel around and not put the track under so much stress that it breaks out a pin or splits the track. That said, I'm also pretty careful with managing my turns and movements to keep side loads on the tracks while moving to a minimum so my tracks become less likely to come off even if a bit loosely tensioned. As for that other video, the strap method can work pretty well but as the bloke sort of learnt towards the end (I'm sure he'll get better with practice), the position that you anchor the other end to becomes important to keeping the right amount of pull on the track so you can spin it around without having to re-adjust the pull on it. I've done similar using chains and hooks on a big machine with steel tracks, that's a whole bucket more fun.
Seriously? Of course it has the tensioning at the idler end, that's what he showed himself backing off. The bolt being further towards the middle of the frame merely indicates the length of the tensioner's sliding sprung carrier that holds the idler wheel and tensions it forwards.
For Christ's sake use wood blocks to hold up the chassis in case hydraulic pressure drops and cuts you leg off with the blade but great video again. As a retired paramedic IV seen too many crush injuries all for the price of a few wooden blocks. Stay safe
But that wouldn't make a good video... with free Healthcare we don't worry about being hurt.
Thank you. mine did just that but just the front idler. Now i know how to adjust it. Beauty! thanks! i bought mine second hand and got none of the tools that did much good. will be able to fix tomorrow morning. Thank you again.
down loaded the owners manual. but it does not explain the lock nut and the using the square end of the threaded rod to release the tension. Thank you. Mine is an HT12. saves an old bloke weeks of slasher shovel and grubber.
Thanks Dave you're very good at explaining things. Because my place is very rocky I'm getting pretty good at putting tracks back on. Worst case I had both tracks off at once on the side of a rocky hill, then it pissed down with rain for two days. Eventually got one track back on then walked it down to flat ground using the bucket as a crutch. I think it's supposed to be character building. I see you got exactly the same tool kit that came with my Rhino. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for that. Oh and I did end up finding the 18mm spanner in the supplied tool box.
Hi, what size is the big socket for the drive sprocket? I am trying to get a socket for that big nut on the drive sprocket.
Hi, what size is the big socket for the drive sprocket? I am trying to get a socket for that big nut on the drive sprocket.
@@TreeChangeFarmer Hi, liked your video
Would win you some brownie points if you replied to your commenters
Just wanted to pass on Dave that the UME12P has upgraded the manual track adjustment you show in the vid to a spring mounted one in the idler wheel assembly.
The 39mm nut and 18mm threaded shaft are still there but their function now is to locate the spring tensioner for the idler wheel assembly on the chassis frame.
The .pdf manual only shows grease tensioners so no help there.
Once you know abt the new design it seems a good one as tracks as they stretch over time won't lose their tension.
The takeaway for 12P owners who throw a track is your vid shows probably the only way to get a track back on safely without too much drama.
Rolling the track back on the drive wheel sprocket in reverse from the top also pulls the idler wheel assembly in compressing the spring.
Worth passing on.
Thanks Ian - good to know. Cheers Dave.
@@TreeChangeFarmer ... thanks for replying Dave ... I forgot to mention the 39mm nut is easily released as well as taken up with a cold chisel and light taps with a hammer on the 12 ... not much in it really but now a process not needed on the 12P.
We're up here on the Evelyn Tableland far Nth Qld ... thanks for the vids they are a great help esp lavander prep and plantings so will give it a go.
Thanks a million for this video. Got my track back on my rhino today. My sprocket would not come off for me despite all my efforts. Had to buy a 10 ton Chinese gear puller in the end to get it off. Cost a hundred euro. Came off with a pop using that! Track went back on nice and easy just like yours. One thing i noticed about the idler is that there is a big spring pushing it forward, so when the track is off it doesn't look like it is far enough back to get the track back on. The sprocket pulled it back fine though with the track. Hope this helps anyone whose sprocket is too tight on the motor shaft!
Thanks for watching and commenting Tim. There are many ways to get the tracks on. Some use the crow bar method which I have tried but it does get a bit awkward by yourself. I will check my idler tensioner again. It might have a spring but was sure when I took it apart to clean it was just the bolt. Cheers Dave.
@@TreeChangeFarmer I'll be interested to see what you find, my UME12S is probably a tad newer than yours (mine's yanmar engined, built may 2022, and looks mostly the same but I've found a few little differences to yours) and mine definitely has a biggg spring as part of the tensioner assembly.
Thanks Dave for a very useful video, I have purchased a UME12P and only after 2 hours the right track came off. With the use of your video I was able to get it back on. Note the nut for the cog is 41mm and in the toolbox supplied with my 12P came a black 41mm ring spanner.
Glad you got it sorted. May not be the only time you have to put the tracks back on! I think my toolbox came with the correct size socket for the hub nut. Cheers Dave
Hi Dave, thank you for all the great information I really appreciate your attention to detail Cheers.
Thanks Brenda. There are few ways to get the tracks back on and I have found this method is pretty quick and less trouble than forcing on with a crow bar. But each to their own. Cheers Dave.
Fantastic! I just bought a 1 ton digger and I thnik your technique would surely be useful in time to come. But as one commenter pointed out preferably put wooden blocks or stands underneath the digger when doing this.
hahaha..... "I sound like a pro but in fact the other one came off yesterday"......Love it🤣 My little 1 tonne has the grease nipple adjusters. A lot less tools in my tool box though. Good tips for WHEN it happens to me.
Hi from across the ditch Dave, great video. I have an almost identical excavator, it's a Rhino brand. My toolbox, same as yours has a 41mm ring spanner for undoing the track adjustor lock nut, much easier than a pipe wrench. The tool box had a seal on it when it arrived to show it hadn't been raided 😁.
Hi Craig. Yes the tool box is not so bad but I will get the right size spanner for the adjuster. Cheers Dave.
Lock nut is 41mm and tensioner is 19mm. I got a 41mm spanner at trade tools and use my Kinchrome 19mm ratchet spanner on the tensioner. Takes about 3 mins to do using the right tools.
Blessings! Glad to learn this trick before I need it!
My UME12S toolkit came with a slogging spanner for the adjuster locknut. Last time my track came off when I overcooked a jump turn I just jammed a crowbar into the ground and levered it against the track while spinning the track and got it on that way. Whichever way works at the time is the best way.
Yep have used the crowbar method myself!
Geez yours went on easy! Although I didn’t back the idler off. I use the crow bar to get them back on.
Yep have used that method myself.
I'm really hoping to buy a mini excavator soon. This will be a very helpful video if I do. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Lock nut on my China machine is 36MM. Learned if l make sure tracks are tight BEFORE l head out l don't lose a track.
They mostly stopped stretching by 75 hours. """NEVER""" put your leg under the blade with out blocking because the dog ain't gonna call for help!!!
Don't know what's going on with these track adjuster sizes. My ume12 has 30mm lock nut and 15mm tensioner bolt.
You guys aren't helping, is it 39, 36 or 30mm ?
Depends on factory, by the sounds of it
I have the next model after this one with the Kubota engine and before the pilot model..Done 150 hours on it and haven’t dropped a track.. maybe because its only been operated in sandy soil. when operating in the loose sand I regularly lift it and run the tracks backwards and forwards to clear them. I have never had to adjust them. thanks to the video it doesn’t look like they are too problematic if it does drop one..
I think I didn't have trouble with my track tension until about 45 hours. Just tensioned them up again yesterday. Other viewers have commented that they settle done by about 75 hours. Cheers Dave.
Very good video,only wish you of said that grease nippier was on idling roller ,as I thinking of buying a u.h.i machine,thank you.
Thanks mate,Will you also show the other maintainence required.
Thanks for watching. There will be a video on changing the engine oil and filter and the next few weeks. Stay tuned! Cheers Dave.
Great video!
Weird, I was looking up mini dump trucks to import one to Canada and found your channel. I have a 2 ton chines ex. and I have the grease fitting track tightener but still loose tracks on small rocks Haha!!
Thanks for watching and the comment. I think the older manual adjusters like I have are on the way out. Other brands of mini diggers of the same size have already gone to the grease adjusters. The New model UME12P may have them.
Gday Dave, I'm looking at buying the same mini-ex you have here, the UME12. Having reference vids such as yours are going to be handy, thanks! Question for you: I see the UME12P is now for sale with the joysticks and Kubota D902 motor. Are you happy with yours and your controls or think the little extra for joysticks and slightly more horsepower is worth it?
Hey Andrew. I was going to get some video of the new model last week but it sold straight away so now waiting for fresh stock. The photo I saw has the joysticks near the arm rest but also retains the centre console with the same controls which I don't understand? If buying a new one I would consider the UME12P but for me if I got, say, $15K for mine, would I pay nearly $5K for side joysticks. Probably not. The new model has a bigger engine but if the hydraulic pump (and there is only one to power all functions) is the same then it would feel like the older machines anyway. Thanks for the comment. Cheers Dave.
@@TreeChangeFarmer Appreciate the response Dave. I had a look in the photo and can see what you mean, seems like they've doubled up on the controls, except the joysticks at the front (not on the sides) are smaller than the UME12 base version. Seems like some strange backup option for controls? Also the UME12P has a hydraulic flow rate of 18.4L/min whereas your version the UME12 has 23.3L/min... so I don't know whats going on. Will give the fellas in Melbourne a call tomorrow to see if I can get some clarity. Once again thanks for the vids, you've got a sub from me.
@@AndrewHageman I almost bought a UME12P, but went with the UME12. The specs didn't make sense to me and whilst having the joystick near the armrest seems more professional, I only saw it as an extra place where something could go wrong.
But in saying that I like how the UME12P has a more open floor space, whereas the UME12 has the fuel tank on the right side, which makes it hard to exit off the machine that side.
@@TreeChangeFarmer Is the one pump powers everything standard on all mini excavators and is that also the case on like a Bobcat E20?
@@flat6fever680 The UHI UME 12 only has the one pump that is rated at 23litres/min. Most similar size Chinese diggers are the same. The bigger UHI machines (2T) have a single pump but greater capacity. This makes it harder to do two functions at once. The Bobcat E20 has three pumps that operate different functions. Two of the pumps are rated at 15 litres/min and the third at 11.5 litres/min. Total volume is 41.5 litres/min. Cheers Dave.
What is the size of that nut on the tensioner pulley belt?? I have a similar made in china model and i'm sure its the same...but i want to get a ratcheting wrench to tighten mine
I think it was 39mm which is a weird size. I thought they were all the same on these small Chinese diggers but have found out that there a number of variances. Might pay to get it off and measure correctly. Cheers Dave.
Thanks! got all that situated and now 6 months later i sheared off one of the keystocks on the left track sprocket...@@TreeChangeFarmer
Keep up with the videos man love em I remember doing the same thing and the struggle of getting tracks back on This is the reason why I got rid of my cheap Chinese excavator was the constant detracting even at the proper tension and went out and brought myself a Sany sy16c no issues at all best thing I ever done.
Nearly everyone I talk to that has a Chinese Mini digger complain about the tracks coming off.
@@TreeChangeFarmer you get fast at getting them on tho!!!
My crappy chinglish manual says to use plenty of butter to tension up the track!!😅 ,it uses a screw tho
Great how to video.
Have you had any warranty problems and how had it been for you?
I'd like one, but have reservations.
Hi Chris. Got the machine in Nov 2021. Just done a 50 hour service so not much work. Any I have done is well within the limits of the machine. Tracks have come of twice. No mechanical or warranty claims as yet!
Thank you soooo much!
What tightness on rear hub? Is it like a wheel bearing tight then back off a little?
Just tight enough to line up a split pin hole. One side was close the other needed about a 1/8 turn.
@@TreeChangeFarmer Thanks
Texan has a 39mm. Wrench 🔧. It is $50.00 on Amazon
He has same luck as me the kids nowheres in sight but you can depend on the dog to be there forgetting to bring his gloves also.
😂😂😂 was he laying under it like that, he must be Australian… fearless
How would you check the oil level on that drive motor? does it even have oil in it?
No way to check the level. Different drive motor than the bigger diggers. No planetry gears just a fluid drive Eaton drive motor.
@@TreeChangeFarmer i thought it may only be a motor. thanks! i have a small 1.2 ton Chinese mini excavator. i saw a bit of oil at one point..but it could have been from when i checked the engine oil..some leaked
A lot easier than a M110A1 track!🤪
Hi Dave, just recently bought the 1.2 pilot control model and find the tracks are constantly coming off the machine which is becoming extremely frustrating. I spent just as much time off the machine putting tracks back on as I spend actually using the machine. Do you find you are having these same issues with your machine?
Hi Jason. I had my machine for over a year before the first track came off. That was while crossing a deep ditch and turning at the same time (not normally done). When I have to turn I do it in little steps, maybe forward and then back and forward again. I don't try to turn 180 on just one track. When do you find your tracks are coming off? Adjustment may be out but usually they are tensioned OK when new til about 70 hours. Check that the drive and the idler pully are in a straight line and that the bottom rollers are not damaged. At the top there is a rail that centres the track . Have a look at that it case it is bent out of shape.
@@TreeChangeFarmer thanks for the reply Dave, everything looks fine and have been adjusted accordingly each time after they are put back on, machine currently has 14hrs on it with the tracks coming off 6 times in this period whilst levelling ground
I just got a mini excavator. I'm collecting all of the how to info I can.
Thanks Mike. There will more videos on the Mini Excavator coming! Cheers Dave.
Good job thanks from. Sc USA.
Thanks for watching Allen.
Spray wd40 on cotter / split pin. Clean up your tracks and components before removal of track or any components. Learnt a couple of handy heads up info, thanks for the info.
well done thanks.
Thanks...
great!
Where is the spot for the grease
No grease adjusters on this model. Cheers Dave
Hey Dave, Some time back I mentioned the slogging spanner that should have been supplied in your Rhino/UME tool kit as it was with mine. If you look at point 2:18 in this video of a chap putting his Rhino track back on you'll see the exact slogging spanner I was referring to ua-cam.com/video/M3Q90dCtxPo/v-deo.html it really does make undoing and doing up that big locknut a little easier.
Thanks Dave. I haven't tried that method as shown in the video! Will still try to track down that spanner but the last few times I have tightened the tracks I have done the big nut up hand tight and then another quarter turn on the adjuster bolt and it seems to keep it all tight. I adjust my tracks up a lot tighter than shown in the video. Maybe only 5mm drop down from the bottom rollers as shown. Cheers Dave.
@@TreeChangeFarmer I have my tracks a bit looser. They are short tracks so there's not a huge amount of stretch when an object gets caught or they become loaded up with crap. I keep them that bit loose so that if a decent sized rock or two gets caught between sprocket and track (which happens to me from time to time) it can travel around and not put the track under so much stress that it breaks out a pin or splits the track. That said, I'm also pretty careful with managing my turns and movements to keep side loads on the tracks while moving to a minimum so my tracks become less likely to come off even if a bit loosely tensioned. As for that other video, the strap method can work pretty well but as the bloke sort of learnt towards the end (I'm sure he'll get better with practice), the position that you anchor the other end to becomes important to keeping the right amount of pull on the track so you can spin it around without having to re-adjust the pull on it. I've done similar using chains and hooks on a big machine with steel tracks, that's a whole bucket more fun.
Whaaaat. No track tensioner at the idler end. What kind of machine is this. Would not buy.
Hey Howard, I don't have CAT 302 or a John Deere 35G. As you say yourself "I just runnin what I brung". Cheers Dave'
Seriously? Of course it has the tensioning at the idler end, that's what he showed himself backing off. The bolt being further towards the middle of the frame merely indicates the length of the tensioner's sliding sprung carrier that holds the idler wheel and tensions it forwards.
@@TreeChangeFarmer Truth!
@@davejaguar6532 makes total sense now. Thanks for the explanation. It’s what I love about the shared UA-cam wisdom.
good to see these videos, I've got the same machine, so very helpful
Thanks for watching and the comment Paul 👍