Nice video - you are right about garages and tyre fitting places over torqueing wheel bolts. VW say 110Nm for them. I fitted a spare I bought after a puncture & took the wheel to a repair place. They pluggged it and before I could stop him a 'helpful' chap jacked my car up and used a long bar to refit the wheel. Well over the correct torque. At least twice a year I remove callipers ad clean everything up the use copper grease on those faces. I had to buy a whole set of torx bits and keys for it and most of my other tools are now redundant ! Nice cars tho - easy to work on and well-tried mechanicals (I suspect a lot are from the Polo parts bin).
Allen, just a tip, it is easier undoing wheel nuts pushing down, rather than pulling up. That way you can use your body weight. Garages are always supposed to run nuts up lightly with air gun, and then fully tighten to correct torque with torque wrench.
@@Cous1nJack Def we can pull more than push, but as you get older you should consider using your body weight pushing down rather than pulling having to use your back in a "weird" position. Thank me later 🤣
One thing to remember for the next time you need to change disk pads is to loosen the bleeder valve before trying to move the piston. I loosen the valve first and then, using a screwdriver pry the pad against the rotor and when the piston is collapsed, tighten the bleeder valve again. That way you don't have to worry about fluid running out of the reservoir.
Thx for this great video. I have never changed brakes before. I dont have 10 thumbs so this seems ok to do for me. But one thing im wondering about. You dont do any "cleaning" of some sort on the calipper itself? Around 6:46 on the timestamp of the video when you remove the the spring loaded pad....that area where you hold your right thumb...it looks for me it should be cleaned as well?
Hi I did not clean the piston but you could give it a wipe with a cloth. I would not put any chemical cleaners on it as it may affect the rubber seal. The important part is the pad carrier that's what the pads slide on.
@@enotsengineering Yeah that I understand, but I'm not talking about the piston... It's this area where it seems the brake pad is kinda resting on a surface. I don't know what it's called but the piston is mounted on that frame or bracket... And when you remove the spring loaded pad on 6:46 there is this area all the way to the right where you have your thumb since you are holding the calipper with your right hand.. for me it seems like the pads are sliding there aswell. If we could just show a screenshot 😅
Hi The pads slide on the rail but at the back of the pads there is very little dirt. Just wipe away any dust from the faces that contact the back of the pads. The one pad is held against the casting (fixed). The other pad moves along the rail as the piston pushes it out and grips the disc
Thanks for this comprehensive video. I haven't changed pads for at least 20 years but now need to do this for my daughter who drives a mii and found your channel. I just want to ask why you changed the disks - you mention 2mm wear and I remember from Haynes days there were max wear specs - is 2mm over the spec? Also just wanted to ask why you didn't use your lovely lathe to take off the lip? I'm guessing it is just the disks are cheap enough to buy but hopefully you can reply for me. I don't have a lathe so if the disks are worn to excess I will need to change them too. Thanks again for the video, I always levered the pads back against the disk with a big screwdriver!
Loosen the bleeder valve before pushing back because, the way you show it, you pushed the old nasty brake fluid back into the system instead of pushing it out of the system.
Should the pins be greased? and also the edge of the pads where they run along the caliper, just something I think I remembered a long time ago, thanks
Great video! One thing I don't understand though: you haven't pulled the hand brake, right? I'm just guessing because you say the front wheels can turn freely. But I've been told that you always need to pull the hand brake before you raise the car with the car jack. How do you safely raise the car on a car jack without the hand brake pulled? How do you prevent the car from moving while you're working on it? :)
I remember going to a well known chain of Tyre Fitters and the cross treaded one stud when I had some work done on the front brakes. I wont name the company but I did start a claim against them before they agreed to replace the entire hub. I came up with a modification to their TV advert jingle which went " You don't get thicker than a, ????? and named to company. It worked they paid for the front hub to be replaced.
@@enotsengineering Hi, sorry for multiple questions, but I need to replace the disks too. Maybe you also know the torque for the torx screw that keep in place the disks? I imagine is something near 30/50Nm. thank you
Nice video - you are right about garages and tyre fitting places over torqueing wheel bolts. VW say 110Nm for them. I fitted a spare I bought after a puncture & took the wheel to a repair place. They pluggged it and before I could stop him a 'helpful' chap jacked my car up and used a long bar to refit the wheel. Well over the correct torque. At least twice a year I remove callipers ad clean everything up the use copper grease on those faces. I had to buy a whole set of torx bits and keys for it and most of my other tools are now redundant ! Nice cars tho - easy to work on and well-tried mechanicals (I suspect a lot are from the Polo parts bin).
Very thorough. Good to see a torx/star head on the disc locator screw. That was the detail I was after. Thank you 👍😊
What size torx bit for that screw head?
@@wynhughes9072 t27
Best video I've seen on fitting pads and disc ,
Thanking you kindly .
Wow, thanks!
Enjoyed the video and helpful tips. Would be nice to have some info on the torque settings for the screws and bolts or where to find them. Good job!
You can pay to access the VW manuals on Erwin. It has all the torque settings
Top job 👍🏾
Allen, just a tip, it is easier undoing wheel nuts pushing down, rather than pulling up. That way you can use your body weight. Garages are always supposed to run nuts up lightly with air gun, and then fully tighten to correct torque with torque wrench.
Man can pull more then push.
@@Cous1nJack Def we can pull more than push, but as you get older you should consider using your body weight pushing down rather than pulling having to use your back in a "weird" position. Thank me later 🤣
One thing to remember for the next time you need to change disk pads is to loosen the bleeder valve before trying to move the piston. I loosen the valve first and then, using a screwdriver pry the pad against the rotor and when the piston is collapsed, tighten the bleeder valve again. That way you don't have to worry about fluid running out of the reservoir.
Make your own video bud! Hate people always trying to look smarter telling another mechanics how to really do it.
Could risk snapping the bleed nipple off and then you have really opened up a hole lot of problems for yourself
Can i ask if you removed the brake fluid reservoir cap off first before pushing the piston back......?????
Hi yes I removed the cap and keep checking that it does not overflow.
Thanks for sharing!
My wife is going to be so confused when I come home with a lathe to change my brakes
Thx for this great video. I have never changed brakes before. I dont have 10 thumbs so this seems ok to do for me. But one thing im wondering about. You dont do any "cleaning" of some sort on the calipper itself? Around 6:46
on the timestamp of the video when you remove the the spring loaded pad....that area where you hold your right thumb...it looks for me it should be cleaned as well?
Hi I did not clean the piston but you could give it a wipe with a cloth. I would not put any chemical cleaners on it as it may affect the rubber seal. The important part is the pad carrier that's what the pads slide on.
@@enotsengineering Yeah that I understand, but I'm not talking about the piston... It's this area where it seems the brake pad is kinda resting on a surface. I don't know what it's called but the piston is mounted on that frame or bracket... And when you remove the spring loaded pad on 6:46 there is this area all the way to the right where you have your thumb since you are holding the calipper with your right hand.. for me it seems like the pads are sliding there aswell. If we could just show a screenshot 😅
Hi The pads slide on the rail but at the back of the pads there is very little dirt. Just wipe away any dust from the faces that contact the back of the pads. The one pad is held against the casting (fixed). The other pad moves along the rail as the piston pushes it out and grips the disc
Thanks for this comprehensive video. I haven't changed pads for at least 20 years but now need to do this for my daughter who drives a mii and found your channel. I just want to ask why you changed the disks - you mention 2mm wear and I remember from Haynes days there were max wear specs - is 2mm over the spec? Also just wanted to ask why you didn't use your lovely lathe to take off the lip? I'm guessing it is just the disks are cheap enough to buy but hopefully you can reply for me. I don't have a lathe so if the disks are worn to excess I will need to change them too. Thanks again for the video, I always levered the pads back against the disk with a big screwdriver!
Hi my discs had score marks they had done 60000 miles
Over tightening wheel studs warps discs.
Loosen the bleeder valve before pushing back because, the way you show it, you pushed the old nasty brake fluid back into the system instead of pushing it out of the system.
Should the pins be greased? and also the edge of the pads where they run along the caliper, just something I think I remembered a long time ago, thanks
Hi I don't grease them, I find it only attracts dirt and dust and when the grease dries out its like sludge
Same set up as my MK1 Golf GTi
Como anda, a se esta gastando los pesitos, jaja, saludos desde Florida Uruguay José.
Great video! One thing I don't understand though: you haven't pulled the hand brake, right? I'm just guessing because you say the front wheels can turn freely. But I've been told that you always need to pull the hand brake before you raise the car with the car jack. How do you safely raise the car on a car jack without the hand brake pulled? How do you prevent the car from moving while you're working on it? :)
Hi Yes that's right. The work was on the front discs on the car the hand brake only holds the rear wheels on this car.
So the front is free to move.
hola enots me llamo pedro acabo de adquirir citigo me gustaria ver este video en español , ¿ lo traducirias
Did you happen to own this car? I was wondering what you thought about the notorious gearbox..
The gearbox sometimes crunches between 2nd and 3rd even after changing the gearbox oil
merci encor dautres lecons a chenger les freins discs chendels bobines ecc ciao
I remember going to a well known chain of Tyre Fitters and the cross treaded one stud when I had some work done on the front brakes.
I wont name the company but I did start a claim against them before they agreed to replace the entire hub.
I came up with a modification to their TV advert jingle which went " You don't get thicker than a, ????? and named to company.
It worked they paid for the front hub to be replaced.
👏👏👏👏👏
Hi, what's the right torque for the two bolt of the caliper?
Hi Ale I looked on internet it is 35Nm for the calliper bolts
@@enotsengineering thank you. I saw the same in another video and you confirmed
@@enotsengineering Hi, sorry for multiple questions, but I need to replace the disks too. Maybe you also know the torque for the torx screw that keep in place the disks? I imagine is something near 30/50Nm. thank you
I watched this after i changed the pads and disk, and i see why new pads and disk make a weird noise when i press the brake.... damn rust.
So......from ..14:04 ....Emery is GOOD for the Ways of this Lathe !!!
Soak the pins in petrol, to remove the crud!