Nice Garage... some notes.. 1.Sink in the anchor bolts when the concrete is wet... then you just mark & drill your bottom plate and lower the wall in place. 2.When marking walls using your square, mark the first one at 15.5"...then 16" the rest of the way, the 48" and 96" land on the middle of the stud. 3.Plywood should be tight against the H clips... when you get to the top of the roof just mark and rip the sheet. 4. Before lifting the outside wall, install at least the first bottom row of exterior sheathing (plywood/OSB), it makes the wall solid and square. Great height in that garage!
I’ve poured my 24x24 slab. I plan on using ZIP R sheathing. Adds an additional R6 to the wall on top of the R22 rockwool I’ll use. Same for the roof. Great video!
That’s what I did for my 36x40 garage. Adds a couple thousand in cost vs standard 7/16” zip, but boy it was nice to work with and my garage is very tight and well insulated! I went with fiberglass though, since I had splurged on the ZipR
@@richb7524 no housewrap is not required for uninsulated barns/shops. If not insulating (and those not worried about permeability or air infiltration) I would HIGHLY suggest 30# building paper (black built felt/tar paper) instead as it is better from the standpoint of moisture management and a second layer of defense after your siding. 15# is adequate depending on what siding, substrate and girt spacing you have
Good job! Have you thought about placing horizontal 2x6 separators at mid height between the walls studs? It would make the walls sturdier. Your videos are excellent and you garage looks great!
Really good job. I keep learning and I'm. 68 years old. One thing to know that many dont realize...tyvek is not a moisture barrier. Enjoyed your video.
Enjoy the tutorial. I appreciate your honesty even when things go wrong. Nothing is ever easy. You guys got the job done, and it looks great. Thanks for sharing...
Shouldve had the tree taken down first. Thats what i did. Having a garage built this spring thats how i came across this. Good work. Bet you saved hella money doing it yourself. Hope u passed along some savings to your buddies
A great job very detailed,clean and good communication.I learned something new from you such as you mentioned the first and second studs 16 " on the center from outside stud that is very helpful for that I thank you greatly.Question I have is Aren't you required to put a block in between studs for wall higher than 10 ' ?
@@mcchupka9718 It will be fine, all the wood touching the concrete is pressure treated. The sill seal just became a thing in the past decade or so. My house is 100 years old and the non treated lumber sits directly on concrete and it's still standing. The sill seal is an energy efficiency thing. None the less thanks for watching and commenting.
Use that same hammer drill you used to drill the hole to then drive the anchor bolt rather than beating on it with a hammer. Use a piece of pvc as a guide until you get the feel for it then free handing it is easy peasy. Good work
When I have set the first gable truss, and all but the last one and the last gable end truss, I hang them upside down on the walls and flip them into position. Much easier I have done this with trusses as long as 32 ft with no problem.
Awesome video! Just wondering why you went with 2x6s for the wall framing instead of 2x4s? I’m assuming it’s because the walls are much bigger than typical 8 ft walls but I figured I would ask
Yes sill plate foam. I bought it and planned on using it but I forgot. It's not a requirement for a garage anyway, new construction uses it to meet the energy code it helps with air leaks.
Are the footings required? I'm planning a 16'x24' addition onto our shed. Just for storage, no insulation, no living space. I'm thinking a 5" thick slab.
I'm 150lb and throw trusses around twice that size on a daily .. where's your poly under your plates? You've got an excavator sitting there to toss em all up there then stand them but didn't use it..work smart not hard guys..
Use that same hammer drill you used to drill the hole to then drive the anchor bolt rather than beating on it with a hammer. Use a piece of pvc as a guide until you get the feel for it then free handing it is easy peasy. Good work
Your lucky your neighbors don’t complain about your machines. I wish I had neighbors like that.
Nice Garage... some notes..
1.Sink in the anchor bolts when the concrete is wet... then you just mark & drill your bottom plate and lower the wall in place.
2.When marking walls using your square, mark the first one at 15.5"...then 16" the rest of the way, the 48" and 96" land on the middle of the stud.
3.Plywood should be tight against the H clips... when you get to the top of the roof just mark and rip the sheet.
4. Before lifting the outside wall, install at least the first bottom row of exterior sheathing (plywood/OSB), it makes the wall solid and square.
Great height in that garage!
Everyone needs a friend like Phil in their life.
That ceiling height sure makes that garage look bigger than it is, that's a great shop.
awesome job and kudos for sharing your lesson's learned. Always good for guys like me that don't do that for a living
Thanks for watching!
I’ve poured my 24x24 slab. I plan on using ZIP R sheathing. Adds an additional R6 to the wall on top of the R22 rockwool I’ll use. Same for the roof. Great video!
Thank you, it's definitely worth it
That’s what I did for my 36x40 garage. Adds a couple thousand in cost vs standard 7/16” zip, but boy it was nice to work with and my garage is very tight and well insulated! I went with fiberglass though, since I had splurged on the ZipR
Is house wrap required when not insulating? Makes sense to do it in case things change but I'm just wondering.@@pacodefrancis7235
@@richb7524 no housewrap is not required for uninsulated barns/shops. If not insulating (and those not worried about permeability or air infiltration) I would HIGHLY suggest 30# building paper (black built felt/tar paper) instead as it is better from the standpoint of moisture management and a second layer of defense after your siding. 15# is adequate depending on what siding, substrate and girt spacing you have
Good job! Have you thought about placing horizontal 2x6 separators at mid height between the walls studs? It would make the walls sturdier. Your videos are excellent and you garage looks great!
Really good job. I keep learning and I'm. 68 years old. One thing to know that many dont realize...tyvek is not a moisture barrier. Enjoyed your video.
Thanks for watching
Great job, man! I'm glad you uploaded this
Thank you
looks great! those high trusses sure are cool✌️
Thank you
Enjoy the tutorial. I appreciate your honesty even when things go wrong. Nothing is ever easy. You guys got the job done, and it looks great. Thanks for sharing...
Great video, great series thanks for making them.
Thanks for watching
This is one of the best jobs I've seen! That's coming from an industrial engineer.
Thank you!
Good stuff! Im just starting out learning and your channel has been awesome!
Thank you, good luck
You killing Phil man
Fascinating to watch on video. Looks great! Good job.
Thank you, I appreciate it
Shouldve had the tree taken down first. Thats what i did. Having a garage built this spring thats how i came across this. Good work. Bet you saved hella money doing it yourself. Hope u passed along some savings to your buddies
Looks good 👍
Thanks
Nicely done, and great job on the video. Steps were well explained without too much yacking! No windows?
Thanks, I usually work with the door open so I skipped on the windows.
When that guy said, "theres nothing that could go wrong" had me rolling
A great job very detailed,clean and good communication.I learned something new from you such as you mentioned the first and second studs 16 " on the center from outside stud that is very helpful for that I thank you greatly.Question I have is Aren't you required to put a block in between studs for wall higher than 10 ' ?
Thank you, glad to help. I believe that is only for a living space and it's for fire blocking
Good work.
Thanks!
Yeah , I would of went with the zip board too, but like you said you’ll know for next time
No seal seal on the bottom plates
*sill seal
Yep I had it on site but I forget to put it down. It's not a requirement for out buildings anyway so it's not a big deal.
@@srmcontractingunfortunately, wood will wick a ton of water trough the concrete without it, which will cause moisture and wood rot or mold.
@@mcchupka9718 It will be fine, all the wood touching the concrete is pressure treated. The sill seal just became a thing in the past decade or so. My house is 100 years old and the non treated lumber sits directly on concrete and it's still standing. The sill seal is an energy efficiency thing. None the less thanks for watching and commenting.
Sill seal is not just for moisture but also stops air and bugs
Use that same hammer drill you used to drill the hole to then drive the anchor bolt rather than beating on it with a hammer. Use a piece of pvc as a guide until you get the feel for it then free handing it is easy peasy. Good work
When I have set the first gable truss, and all but the last one and the last gable end truss, I hang them upside down on the walls and flip them into position. Much easier
I have done this with trusses as long as 32 ft with no problem.
Thanks for the tip!
Great video. I noticed the wall framing 16” center and your trust 24” center , is it allowed since the load not on the framing walls ?
Yes, most trusses will be 24" on center. The walls have double top plates so the weight is spread out.
Nice work brother. are you putting blocking between the studs?👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks man, I wasn't planning on it. Do you think it's necessary?
Awesome video! Just wondering why you went with 2x6s for the wall framing instead of 2x4s? I’m assuming it’s because the walls are much bigger than typical 8 ft walls but I figured I would ask
Thank you, yes because the walls are 12', I figured it would be more sturdy that way.
Thanks for sharing. How long did it take?
No problem, about 15 days for everything.
Isn't there some type of a foam membrane that goes between the bottom plate and concrete before standing the walls?
Yes sill plate foam. I bought it and planned on using it but I forgot. It's not a requirement for a garage anyway, new construction uses it to meet the energy code it helps with air leaks.
Why no overhang front and rear?
I thought about it but I was in a rush to get the roof on.
Nice!
Thanks!
Scissor trusses are the best for ceiling clearance
no treated seal plate? No seal plate foam seal?
Why didn’t you put any window openings in? It’s going to be dark in there and no cross venting for air
Would this need to be permitted by the city? I live in Florida and wondering what that process would be like?
Are you not required to use sill plate sealant in your area like polyethylene foam roll 3-1/2x50'?
Are the footings required? I'm planning a 16'x24' addition onto our shed. Just for storage, no insulation, no living space. I'm thinking a 5" thick slab.
Depends on your local code but I would do a 12" minimum.
where do you order trusses from ? and how long to get them delivered ?
You can get them through most lumber yards. I used 84 Lumber, took about 2 weeks
Why know overhang on gable ends ?
what was the price for framing and sheeting whole building?
Material was about $6500
what is the side wall height?
12 ft
thought he would have installed electric cable and water before setting and pouring the fgarage oundation
Yeah still need another stud in the corners if your gonna do sheet rock. Or anything really.
How much is the trusses cost?
About $2k
No sill sealer?
I actually bought a roll to use but forgot about it. It's not required anyway since this isn't a living space.
12’ walls?
Yes
no windows? ugh nice cave
I'm 150lb and throw trusses around twice that size on a daily .. where's your poly under your plates?
You've got an excavator sitting there to toss em all up there then stand them but didn't use it..work smart not hard guys..
I’m next
I would rather have the plywood
🍕
🍕
Laurel and Hardy
😅😅😅gut das wir osb innen befestigen und MDF für aussen und das Dach haben. So jedenfalls hat man vor 60 Jahren mal gebaut! 👎👎🇩🇪
Everybody watching the video knows. You’ll never be able to sell it.
Whats for sale?
Reframe the gable entrance wall...You will be sorry for the small garage door opening....does not make sense.
The roof is gunna leak that’s not how u install clips I could drop my phone thru there 💀🚫❌❌❌
The gap is 1/8"
@@srmcontracting are you blind
Use that same hammer drill you used to drill the hole to then drive the anchor bolt rather than beating on it with a hammer. Use a piece of pvc as a guide until you get the feel for it then free handing it is easy peasy. Good work
Good work.