I’m about halfway through. Please keep making videos! You capture everything and have saved me so much time. Working on my Daughter’s car, We have limited time and I never send my cars to shops (not a rich man in this sense). I can’t thank you enough so far. I’ll comment more, but I’m expecting to give you more thanks.
Thanks! You may have to remove the bumper facia since the top portion of the facia is integrated with the lower portion and covers the radiator cross member. Removing the facia, as shown in the video, does not take much time and effort. With the facia and cross member removed, pull up on the ac condenser to detach from the radiator. From that point, you should be able to tilt the radiator forward (with the fan shroud attached) and pull the radiator out. Watch part 2 of the video to see how I installed it.
I really like your videos on transmission services, particularly a flush. I am saying this because I currently own a 1998 Camry, which I bought brand new in '97, and til this day, I am still the owner.The car is currently 26 years old, approaching 136K miles. Is it wise to have a transmission flush on it?? In the car's entire life, I never have once done a transmission fluid change, nor a differential service. As of late, when I put the car in drive,it sometimes reverses, other times, when the gear is in drive, the car would take almost a minute to move,even as I'm pressing the gas pedal, and this usually happens first thing in the morning/when the car is parked for an extended amount of time, where it's gotten to the point that I let the car idle to operating temperature before I drive off. And even as I drive normally,each time I accelerate, I hear a whining noise, not sure if that's transmission related. My mechanic says I should get a flush,but I hear negative scenarios,esp. if a car is old and have never had a transmission service. I hear drain and fills are safer, but I was told to get a flush, so I ordered 10 quarts of Toyota ATF, along with a new filter and gasket. I am nervous about this process. Do you think a flush is the right thing to do, and I should have the differential drain and filled,too, or should I have that flushed?
Good for you keeping your 98 camry running! 136k miles is really not a lot of miles for a Camry. I'm past 300k but have a manual transmission. Only had to replaced the clutch once. Your safest bet is to start with drain and fills at each oil change ... around 3 - 4k miles. After the 3rd change, there should be some noticeable improvement. If so, you can then do a full fush. Otherwise, based on your description of the transmission behavior, it sounds like the clutch plates are wearing out. You may be better off get a JDM (Japanese Domestic Manufacturer) used transmission. You can probably get one for under $500 or a used one from the salvage yard for much less if you know someone who can pull it for you ... which is what I did on the Elantra.
@@hardlymovingpro I appreciate your expertise so much! It means a lot, as it's hard to get answers and responses out here. So I should not do a flush like my mechanic recommending me to do so first, it should be a drain and fill for the first service? I kept stressing a drain and fill to my mechanic, as my car is almost 30 years old and never has had a transmission fluid service, but he is very adamant on doing a flush. And the fluid is brown mixed with some black. Man, it's a tough gamble on what I am going to do. My mechanic is excellent at what he does, but if it's a drain that I have to do, then I will have to look elsewhere for service. It's tough, "Hardlymovingpro", real tough on what to do.
I did a flush a few years back on a 07 Camry V6 with over 150k miles. The customer afterwards complained of jerking into gear on the upshift. My guess is that the clutch plates had accumulate too much varnish buildup and the new fluid, in the absence of grit from the clutch wear residue, was making the clutch discs slip. After around a week of driving, the detergent in the ATF cleaned up the varnish on the disc plates. The transmission has been working fine ever since. Toyota's Aisin transmission, IMHO, are pretty much bullet proof. But the new late model transmissions with more gears seem to be more sensitive to fluid flushes. Do a couple drain-and-fills at each engine oil change, see how that works, then do a complete flush. Just my 2 cents if you want to be on the side of caution.
I really do appreciate the feedback, as I already bought 10 quarts of ATF from Toyota, thinking that I was going to do a flush, per my mechanic's request, which I did not need to do . And for those extra 2 drain and fills that I should do at the oil changes, between 3-4K miles/3-4 months, should I change the differential fluid again,too, during those times?
I only messed with the diff fluid once and it came out clean; but doesn't hurt to change it. It takes around 1 qtr of atf. With respect to trans fluid, I've found Valvoline or Castrol Synthetic ATF to be superior to Toyota's Type IV ATF ... which is not full synthetic.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks how would you approach a transmission replacement for example like a ES300 since you got to " drop the subframe"? Could you do it like the Elantra?
First off, I'd still take the front end off. The question is would I be able to lift the ES300 trans up and out vs down and out. With the Elantra trans I couldn't lift it up due to the side trans mount in the way. With the ES you might have to drop or lower the subframe. You can support the engine and trans with a Engine Support Cross Member tool then drop the subframe for clearance. FYI: I did a RX350 engine swap using the up and out technique.
No need ... IMHO. I drove for a week and the transmission up and down shifts smoothed out after around 100 miles. I think it was rough in the beginning due to all new transmission fluid. But just for fun, I did reset the trans in the 2nd week with my scan tool and there was no difference.
You make a good point. Just letting people know what's involved in replacing a transmission. Also, it can be done in your drive way with a engine hoist. What takes me less than a day could be several days for the shade tree mechanic.
Absolutely! I've seen other videos where people are pulling the engine out leaving the front end on with the radiator. That leaves very little wiggle room. They never show you how they were able align the mounting bolt holes during engine installation to get the flex plate alignment pin in the torque converter because it's a real struggle with little wiggle room. With most engine hoists, the arm cannot extend to the middle of the engine so they bring the hoist to the side fender. Then there's all the stuff you have to detach or remove between the engine and the radiator. I can have the entire front end off in under a half an hour which opens everything up. Then sitting on a mechanic's stool I start detaching everything on the engine with easy access to the mounting bolts. Don't have to stretch, bend over, lean over, etc.
@@hardlymovingpro is removing it from the front the same thing as removing it from the bottom? Like if you didn’t have a lift….is removing it from the front an alternative to removing it from the bottom if you don’t have a lift? My manual says I can’t remove it from the top because there’s not enough clearance. That’s what I’m asking
The most underrated Auto Tech on YT. Love how your work man. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for your support!
I’m about halfway through. Please keep making videos! You capture everything and have saved me so much time. Working on my Daughter’s car, We have limited time and I never send my cars to shops (not a rich man in this sense). I can’t thank you enough so far. I’ll comment more, but I’m expecting to give you more thanks.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped you out. Let us know how everything turns out.
You always make it look too easy. Thanks for another informative video. Keep up the amazing work 👍🫡
Thanks 👍Things go a lot faster and smoother using power tools!
Best mechanic on UA-cam
Thanks!
Another awesome tutorial! Thanks again for creating such detailed videos!
Glad you like them!
Good move on the radiator. 🎉
Thanks!
Awesome video! Is it possible to replace the radiator without removing the bumper? I know the fan can be squeezed out, not sure about the radiator.
Thanks! You may have to remove the bumper facia since the top portion of the facia is integrated with the lower portion and covers the radiator cross member. Removing the facia, as shown in the video, does not take much time and effort. With the facia and cross member removed, pull up on the ac condenser to detach from the radiator. From that point, you should be able to tilt the radiator forward (with the fan shroud attached) and pull the radiator out. Watch part 2 of the video to see how I installed it.
Ohh wow okay beautiful!! Thank you! ✊✊
You bet!
I really like your videos on transmission services, particularly a flush. I am saying this because I currently own a 1998 Camry, which I bought brand new in '97, and til this day, I am still the owner.The car is currently 26 years old, approaching 136K miles. Is it wise to have a transmission flush on it?? In the car's entire life, I never have once done a transmission fluid change, nor a differential service.
As of late, when I put the car in drive,it sometimes reverses, other times, when the gear is in drive, the car would take almost a minute to move,even as I'm pressing the gas pedal, and this usually happens first thing in the morning/when the car is parked for an extended amount of time, where it's gotten to the point that I let the car idle to operating temperature before I drive off. And even as I drive normally,each time I accelerate, I hear a whining noise, not sure if that's transmission related.
My mechanic says I should get a flush,but I hear negative scenarios,esp. if a car is old and have never had a transmission service. I hear drain and fills are safer, but I was told to get a flush, so I ordered 10 quarts of Toyota ATF, along with a new filter and gasket.
I am nervous about this process. Do you think a flush is the right thing to do, and I should have the differential drain and filled,too, or should I have that flushed?
Good for you keeping your 98 camry running! 136k miles is really not a lot of miles for a Camry. I'm past 300k but have a manual transmission. Only had to replaced the clutch once. Your safest bet is to start with drain and fills at each oil change ... around 3 - 4k miles. After the 3rd change, there should be some noticeable improvement. If so, you can then do a full fush. Otherwise, based on your description of the transmission behavior, it sounds like the clutch plates are wearing out. You may be better off get a JDM (Japanese Domestic Manufacturer) used transmission. You can probably get one for under $500 or a used one from the salvage yard for much less if you know someone who can pull it for you ... which is what I did on the Elantra.
@@hardlymovingpro
I appreciate your expertise so much! It means a lot, as it's hard to get answers and responses out here. So I should not do a flush like my mechanic recommending me to do so first, it should be a drain and fill for the first service? I kept stressing a drain and fill to my mechanic, as my car is almost 30 years old and never has had a transmission fluid service, but he is very adamant on doing a flush. And the fluid is brown mixed with some black. Man, it's a tough gamble on what I am going to do. My mechanic is excellent at what he does, but if it's a drain that I have to do, then I will have to look elsewhere for service. It's tough, "Hardlymovingpro", real tough on what to do.
I did a flush a few years back on a 07 Camry V6 with over 150k miles. The customer afterwards complained of jerking into gear on the upshift. My guess is that the clutch plates had accumulate too much varnish buildup and the new fluid, in the absence of grit from the clutch wear residue, was making the clutch discs slip. After around a week of driving, the detergent in the ATF cleaned up the varnish on the disc plates. The transmission has been working fine ever since. Toyota's Aisin transmission, IMHO, are pretty much bullet proof. But the new late model transmissions with more gears seem to be more sensitive to fluid flushes. Do a couple drain-and-fills at each engine oil change, see how that works, then do a complete flush. Just my 2 cents if you want to be on the side of caution.
I really do appreciate the feedback, as I already bought 10 quarts of ATF from Toyota, thinking that I was going to do a flush, per my mechanic's request, which I did not need to do . And for those extra 2 drain and fills that I should do at the oil changes, between 3-4K miles/3-4 months, should I change the differential fluid again,too, during those times?
I only messed with the diff fluid once and it came out clean; but doesn't hurt to change it. It takes around 1 qtr of atf. With respect to trans fluid, I've found Valvoline or Castrol Synthetic ATF to be superior to Toyota's Type IV ATF ... which is not full synthetic.
Very relatable . He is southpaw like me.
Good observation!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks how would you approach a transmission replacement for example like a ES300 since you got to " drop the subframe"? Could you do it like the Elantra?
First off, I'd still take the front end off. The question is would I be able to lift the ES300 trans up and out vs down and out. With the Elantra trans I couldn't lift it up due to the side trans mount in the way. With the ES you might have to drop or lower the subframe. You can support the engine and trans with a Engine Support Cross Member tool then drop the subframe for clearance. FYI: I did a RX350 engine swap using the up and out technique.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you sir for your input.
Do you know if you need to program it once you change the transmission to another one?
No need ... IMHO. I drove for a week and the transmission up and down shifts smoothed out after around 100 miles. I think it was rough in the beginning due to all new transmission fluid. But just for fun, I did reset the trans in the 2nd week with my scan tool and there was no difference.
@ so I’ll be able to replace this without any scan tools? & it will turn on right away ? Obviously if I do everything right
From my experience, yes. As I said before, the trans my be a little rough in the beginning but believe the computer will adjust/relearn.
Knowledge and experience make it look too easy average guy wouldn’t know where to start
You make a good point. Just letting people know what's involved in replacing a transmission. Also, it can be done in your drive way with a engine hoist. What takes me less than a day could be several days for the shade tree mechanic.
@@hardlymovingprocan you remove the engine the same way? Through the front?
Absolutely! I've seen other videos where people are pulling the engine out leaving the front end on with the radiator. That leaves very little wiggle room. They never show you how they were able align the mounting bolt holes during engine installation to get the flex plate alignment pin in the torque converter because it's a real struggle with little wiggle room. With most engine hoists, the arm cannot extend to the middle of the engine so they bring the hoist to the side fender. Then there's all the stuff you have to detach or remove between the engine and the radiator. I can have the entire front end off in under a half an hour which opens everything up. Then sitting on a mechanic's stool I start detaching everything on the engine with easy access to the mounting bolts. Don't have to stretch, bend over, lean over, etc.
@@hardlymovingpro is removing it from the front the same thing as removing it from the bottom? Like if you didn’t have a lift….is removing it from the front an alternative to removing it from the bottom if you don’t have a lift? My manual says I can’t remove it from the top because there’s not enough clearance. That’s what I’m asking
With the front end off, you slightly lift it up and then out with the hoist.