I'm just a few weeks ago I was messing around with little things, amazed at how well they worked through 3D printing. What a coincidence that this pops up showing how to blow my mind even more!
I've done a number of these with lithophane maker + Palette. It always amazes the people I make them for. I first did it back in 2019 where Jason put out a call on Twitter: if you supplied how much filament you needed, he would provide special filament. I was apparently the only person who took him up on the offer. The special filament was TruBlend PLA in cyan, magenta, and yellow. It was made for a Kickstarter printer that was supposed to do full color prints using a filament mixing hot end. The Kickstarter, like many mixing hot ends, didn't pan out. But the filament remained... but only so much. Luckily David from Printed Solid was in discussion with Jason at that time (2019) to make the filaments. While the Cyan and Magenta needed to be created, the existing Yellow filament PS had was good enough. One thing you didn't mention (or wasn't mentioned) is that the white is actually special too. It's called Quarter White because it's normal white filament with 1/4th the amount of pigment added. It makes the filament less opaque and thus more light gets through and you get better color results.
@@CNCKitchen Damn, wish I had read all the comments before ordering filament last night! Looks like I will have to try and find quarter white somewhere.
would like to try this can you do it on an Ender 3 pro. If so do you have to change filament a lot or can it print all one color then change filament and do the whole other color and then change one more time for the third color. Or would you have to change the film excessive around times. If I can do this on my Ender 3 that would be awesome. Can someone provide a link where to get the three colors and the special White.
@@jamesl197999 You can do it on any FDM printer with manual filament swaps. It's ~15 swaps and depending on the image size, it could be a few minutes between swaps. The particular colors are at Printed Solid: Jessie Yellow Bird, Pure Cyan, Pure Magenta, and Quarter White
This guy has been at MRRF for a couple of years at least, but last I saw him, he was a bit coy with how to produce the effect. He wanted to build some software and sell it or something. Glad to see it's widely available now.
This was definitely fascinating to look at at MRRF. The image is sharper than if the image was color copied and put behind the lithophane. Very impressive.
Very interesting method! Thanks for sharing and also for posting these MRRF2022 wrap-up videos -- they are really great for those of us who weren't able to attend!
I saw Jason's early work years back at a prior MRRF before he was able to get the tools made. It was an amazing effort and the results were great even back then. It's so neat to see this kind of thing in person and I'm tempted to try making one using a single nozzle. Nice work on describing the process!
Looks really nice, thanks for bringing this to our attention. BTW the multi extruders/m600 works great on any printer. It is just tedious and you need to study the print preview for knowing which filament to load next.
dude literally used chroma subsampling (lower resolution on color than on brightness), on 3D printing, and made a sort-of S-Video signal by printing them both half-separately (I mean same print but not on the same layer). When there's a will, there's a way.
This is how I 3d print my business cards. They snap apart and fold up into a tiny cart for USB sticks. But only with 1 filament, this multifilament process is cool.
Neat technique, I'm just wondering what applications this would have that you couldn't do way easier with an inkjet printer on transparency film. Resolution would be higher too.
One interesting thought could be to make art accessible for people with low or no vision whilst also letting people with vision see the picture. I don't really know if this would work however, since the hight differences of the lithophanes might be too subtile to really make out an image by feeling with your fingers.
I made a moon that uses this technique for black/white/grey…as the technique evolves I can see it moving into 3D space and more than just color globes, I think it’s smart…
Was thinking exactly the same. A lot of plastic and Ressources wasted to mimic a low res color copy on transparent paper. Different thing with an actual moon lithosphere. It's a sphere and not a plane and it's a black and white object. So an ideal fit for 3D printing a moon-lamp with white filament. But transparent 2D color images? Man...
In Cura I have created a dual-extruder Ender 3 V2 where the extruder-change G-code is just „M600“. This works perfectly - as you suggested! I have used this to print some simple multi-colored prints.
I did the same in prusa slicer. Works well if you only need a few filament changes. Also it will start the next layer with the color already loaded, so one change less! I used it to print key caps with labels upside down to have a smooth surface.
How did you create the multi-extruder Ender 3 Cura machine definition? I've been trying to figure out how to create the multi-extruder definition in a way that will still allow me to import Ender 3 print profiles, but the "Custom FFF" definition has different default profiles, and if I use the Ender 3 one then I can't add multiple extruders... :/
@@zombieofthepast Prepare Workspace > Printers Dropdown > Manage Printers > Machine Settings > Printer [Printhead Settings] - Number of Extruders 4 > Extruder 1 Workspace [Extruder End G-code] M600 > Extruder 2 Workspace [Extruder End G-code] M600 > Repeat for Extruder 3 and Extruder 4 > Click-off the text box so it actually saves the Gcode text you just typed in > Close "Machine Settings" You will now notice on the right that your Print Settings now has four columns for Extruder 1, Extruder 2, Extruder 3,and Extruder 4 - as indicated by the (1), (2), (3), and (4) icons respectively. Adjust your Extruder 2, 3 and 4 settings to the secondary filaments you will print your dual extrusion with (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow). Personally, I just copy and pasted the settings from Extruder 1 to Extruder 2 because my printer has pretty consistent print quality for almost any PLA. Also, you may want to make the following 3 Nozzle temperatures for each of the extruders the same if you want to minimize stall time -> which can lead to zits/globs: - Printing Temperature - Initial Printing Temperature - Final Printing Temperature ^ These 3 settings can affect your M104 (Set Hotend Temperature) and M109 (Wait for Hotend Temperature). Ideally, you do NOT want have to wait for your nozzle to reheat from the Waiting Hotend Temperature to the Printing Hotend Temperature after a filament change - especially if your nozzle is hovering just-over your print with filament oozing-out. If those 3 settings are the same temperature, there SHOULD be no wait time in theory. Even better, you may want to consider modifying those settings such that the Waiting Hotend Temperature is 1º higher than the Printing Hotend Temperature so it will start right away. ======= ALSO, some key settings to modify can be found within the NEW Dual Extrusion section in the Print Settings menu: - Enable Prime Tower (if you want to use a prime tower) and other respective settings - Enable Ooze Shield - Nozzle Switch Retraction Distance -> SUPER IMPORTANT; mine was defaulted to (+)16.0mm and would leave HUGE globs after the Filament Change and start of the new layer; (+)50.0mm left an even bigger glob; (-)2.0mm left a noticeable glob as well; IN THE END, I changed mine to (+)2.0mm which worked for me - Nozzle Switch Retraction Speed to match that of your extruder. I have an Orbiter v2.0, so mine is 120.0mm/s; yours will probably be lower -Nozzle Switch Extra Prime Amount
If I were to do that, I’d print the colored image in an acetate using a regular inkjet or colored laser jet printer instead. Then put a “cover” Lithopane on top.
I walked by that table at MRRF and did not stop because I thought it was the standard lithphane with a color picture behind it. My fault for not being more observant.
@@CNCKitchen It was just in proof-of-concept phase back then, if I recall correctly. I don't even think he had an easy way to convert the images yet, he was doing it all manually in a photo software. Definitely was a "that's interesting" table then vs. a "I can do a video about this" table now.
I gave this a go a while ago. I tried it with samples and it turned out good. I had some stringing issues (old samples) so image had random blue Web through it but it was good. Had issues with warping, corners would refuse to stay down as its a solid plastic plate printed flat and also had a nice jam in heartbreak near the end. Cool idea, cool picture. Alot of effort
Bambu Labs getting a feature here. I will be trying this once my printer shows up this August. Holidays, birthdays, and special occasions are low hanging fruit!
@@CNCKitchen now that the Kickstarter is complete and you’ve had even more time with the Carbon… Any other thoughts on the printer that would help a future owner?
I just printed my first color lithophane with my Bambu printer. It looks good except the colors are wrong. The primary character in the photo is green and it came out blue. I used the Bambu CYMW kit, so all my filaments were correct.
Perhaps a PETG would be better suited. I have at the moment pure saturated transparent yellow and cyan. Magenta one, I think, is not a problem to find. This will be the best solution for a contrasting color mask, since the main blur will be milky white.
At 4:40 you mention that these must be printed flat to reduce the number of color changes. Is there any reason why you couldn't just print the color layers flat and then print the luminance layers vertically separately? That way you would get the convenience of fewer color changes but also reap the benefit of superior xy resolution for the luminance layers.
I have tried that but you get the same effect as when people just try slapping on a piece of colored paper on the back of a lithophane, the color becomes soft, not crisp, and ever so slightly blurry. It is something that is hard to explain but if you see it in person the drop in quality of not printing it in one piece is quite noticeable.
Hi Stefan, just a reminder. The 1000g 3DJake spools don't work with the BambuLab AMS, they are too wide! The 250g also don't work, they are too small. I ordered 1000g spools to try this out and failed.
Printed solid has the pure cyan and magenta filaments, which one should I get for yellow? There is bird yellow and neon yellow on the site but not pure yellow.
hi! i would like to know if you maybe know about more sites that i can order these colors. unfortunately i can't order frow the sites that show showed to my country. thanks!! :)
Ok but the novelty of a lithophane is that it looks a bit incomprehensible until you shine a light behind it, and then you see a surprisingly clear, fairly detailed image made from nothing but varying thickness of plastic. Kind of neat in a roundabout way. On the other hand, by printing it flat you're drastically reducing the resolution available for that effect and simply masking that loss of detail with colors that could easily and more effectively be produced on a standard inkjet. It's just an overhead transparency with extra steps.
Disagree, shining light through a standard print looks nothing like this, also the resolution on the avengers photo in this very video is easily high enough to be used to print most art. The actual lithophane on the front that sets the brightness and detail can still be printed vertical retaining the resolution.
Can you explain why you say that there are 16 filament changes necessary if printed with only one extruder? Shouldn't it be only 12 if the first layer is white followed by 5 colours plus white again? And why 5 colour layers and not 4? What's the point of the fifth?
It's pretty easy. Set your slicer to use multiple extruders, set the filament change gcode to a pause (@pause for octoprint, depending on your firmware this will be different. you may also have to set a park location). import the stls, one per colour, they should import aligned but this will be slicer dependent, and set each stl to a different nozzle. Note the sequence of the colours per layer over the print and swap in the colours in the right order as the printer pauses. resume once you have purged the new colour through the nozzle. If you let us know what slicer you have and what firmware you have, or if you use octoprint, then someone may be able to be more specific. I personally use prusa slicer and octoprint.
Ironically... you now created a very expensive hard to use normal printer... Granted.. its really really cool. By the way, having higher luminanance resolution than collor is used in a lot of image compression software.
would like to try this can you do it on an Ender 3 pro. If so do you have to change filament a lot or can it print all one color then change filament and do the whole other color and then change one more time for the third color. Or would you have to change the film excessive around times.
Hi, is there any setting-sheet for printing this with an bambu lab x1c? So in your Video you mean: set color layers to 0.08 and luminous layer to 0.05. But where can i set this? :D
I did multi colors print resently on prusa mini and prusaslicer. I HAD to make a custom wipe block/layer start location, because after color change it always created an ugly blob(prb because of m600 on mini). Otherwise it worked great
I been researching the Colored Lithophanes a lot in prep for Bambu Lab X1. One thing I'm still confused is Lithophane Resolution (mm/pixel). Colored Resolution per Jason's video is 2x your nozzle size. Default nozzle is 0.4mm, so it would be 0.8 colored resolution for most. For Bambu X1 that uses 0.2 mm nozzle, that is 0.4 colored resolution. However I still don't get the lithophanne resolution, even with explanation that it is distance between pixels in the printed lithophane, so a value of 0.3 mm/pixel means that each unique lithophane thickness is 0.3mm apart in the x and y dimensions. I do know the smaller resolution = bigger file size, but I'm certain if there any hard limit like with color resolution with nozzle size.
There is no direct formula that I have figured out based on nozzle size and layer height. Until recently I just used the defaults but I did crank up the lithophane resolution for the leaf one and I think it made some improvement because of the small nozzle I was using.
It should not be nozzle size, but wall thickness that limits resolution. And you can set wall thinkness quite a bit lower then your nozzle diameter. A pixel is a 2x2 wall square, so the mininum pixel distance is wallthickness times 2. Using a 0,2 nozzle and arachne slicer settings, I bet you could get a very high resolution...for a 3d print.
Was thinking about if you could use this is some way that isn't for pure aesthetics and realised this could be implemented into a very cool light based escape room and has got me thinking more about colour theory and colours in general. Super interesting that you can make things like this now
How about a white layer with translucent cmyk layers on top to make a regular image without having to put light thru it? Process: 1. Define cmyk levels into various amounts of translucent layers of c, m, y, k. Maximum of layers per primary color is up to the user and a formula can split it i to gradients based on max layer count 1. All-white layer 2. For each of cmyk, each layer of each color either gets its own set of layers (so each layer only has 2 filaments: primary color and fully transparent 3. For each primary color, print the amount of layers that are necessary for its intensity per pixel, printing transparent for layers whose intensity no longer require another translucent cmyk layer If you wanna use an ams: 1. then for each pixel, stack up the necessary amount of layers for each primary color, each pixel starting at layer 2 2. Determine the pixel that uses the most amount of total layers. All other shorter pixels will be padded by transparent pixels on top, so the final result is flat. This is optional in case you dont need a flat top I can definitely code an algorithm to do this
Except Photoshop i do not find anything to separate in 4 separate files (cmyk) - for plotting with aerobrush or paintspray. If someone knows any other way to do that (stand alone app if is posible), please let me know! It s easy to buy a inkjet printer and have no idea how is work, but when u have to paint a large wall...
why? it would be way more time efficient & energy efficient to regular print onto OHP sheets. yes it's technically impressive but a massive case of just because you can doesn't mean you should.
I think the point is about being able to shine light through it, though I'm sure there are ways to do this with regular printers too, I think the texture and physicality of it is the point. It's also probably cheaper than paying to print on paper in any university (that was only slightly a joke)
@@BeefIngot The "texture and physicality of it" is the only real plus but it's not much of a plus given how thin the texture will be compared to a sculpture style print with paint.
By the way, you are printing it wrong. Idealy you will be printing this standing, so the printer use z axis and x axis for movement, which is more precise than printing lying down.
Not wrong, just a different trade off. With 0.05 layer height and a 0.25 nozzle these, in person, look like they came out of a mold. It also eliminates visible layer lines which are prominent in vertical printed lithophanes unless the printer is tuned perfectly.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm just a few weeks ago I was messing around with little things, amazed at how well they worked through 3D printing. What a coincidence that this pops up showing how to blow my mind even more!
I've done a number of these with lithophane maker + Palette. It always amazes the people I make them for. I first did it back in 2019 where Jason put out a call on Twitter: if you supplied how much filament you needed, he would provide special filament. I was apparently the only person who took him up on the offer. The special filament was TruBlend PLA in cyan, magenta, and yellow. It was made for a Kickstarter printer that was supposed to do full color prints using a filament mixing hot end. The Kickstarter, like many mixing hot ends, didn't pan out. But the filament remained... but only so much. Luckily David from Printed Solid was in discussion with Jason at that time (2019) to make the filaments. While the Cyan and Magenta needed to be created, the existing Yellow filament PS had was good enough. One thing you didn't mention (or wasn't mentioned) is that the white is actually special too. It's called Quarter White because it's normal white filament with 1/4th the amount of pigment added. It makes the filament less opaque and thus more light gets through and you get better color results.
Thanks for all of the insight, especially the point about the "white" I forgot to include.
@@CNCKitchen NP
@@CNCKitchen Damn, wish I had read all the comments before ordering filament last night! Looks like I will have to try and find quarter white somewhere.
would like to try this can you do it on an Ender 3 pro. If so do you have to change filament a lot or can it print all one color then change filament and do the whole other color and then change one more time for the third color. Or would you have to change the film excessive around times. If I can do this on my Ender 3 that would be awesome. Can someone provide a link where to get the three colors and the special White.
@@jamesl197999 You can do it on any FDM printer with manual filament swaps. It's ~15 swaps and depending on the image size, it could be a few minutes between swaps. The particular colors are at Printed Solid: Jessie Yellow Bird, Pure Cyan, Pure Magenta, and Quarter White
Full-color 3D printing with just 4 materials! Amazing, right!? What would you do with this method?
Photos on a moon lamp or something
How do you comment 57 minutes before the video is even up?
@@Demertech he probably set the video to private
@@hellocreeper88 yeah, I never knew that you can comment when it's private
Fwi, yo can use a regular lithopane+ a regular printed piece of paper for same effect
This guy has been at MRRF for a couple of years at least, but last I saw him, he was a bit coy with how to produce the effect. He wanted to build some software and sell it or something. Glad to see it's widely available now.
can you blame him people run away with your ideas and then make money on your work on your hard work. I have had it happen to me multiple times
Me:'look kids I can print any colour poster for you!, we just need to convince mum to let us by the new Bambu labs x1 with Ams'
*buy
Me: fax
Also me: wait what about a normal printer
Did you do it yet?
This was definitely fascinating to look at at MRRF. The image is sharper than if the image was color copied and put behind the lithophane. Very impressive.
Very interesting method! Thanks for sharing and also for posting these MRRF2022 wrap-up videos -- they are really great for those of us who weren't able to attend!
I saw Jason's early work years back at a prior MRRF before he was able to get the tools made. It was an amazing effort and the results were great even back then. It's so neat to see this kind of thing in person and I'm tempted to try making one using a single nozzle. Nice work on describing the process!
Looks really nice, thanks for bringing this to our attention.
BTW the multi extruders/m600 works great on any printer. It is just tedious and you need to study the print preview for knowing which filament to load next.
dude literally used chroma subsampling (lower resolution on color than on brightness), on 3D printing, and made a sort-of S-Video signal by printing them both half-separately (I mean same print but not on the same layer).
When there's a will, there's a way.
yep. see: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chroma_subsampling for more details, on how chroma subsampling works.
This is how I 3d print my business cards. They snap apart and fold up into a tiny cart for USB sticks. But only with 1 filament, this multifilament process is cool.
Neat technique, I'm just wondering what applications this would have that you couldn't do way easier with an inkjet printer on transparency film. Resolution would be higher too.
Agreed. About halfway through the video I realized we're just reinventing the inkjet 😂
One interesting thought could be to make art accessible for people with low or no vision whilst also letting people with vision see the picture. I don't really know if this would work however, since the hight differences of the lithophanes might be too subtile to really make out an image by feeling with your fingers.
People want reasons for running their printers, even if it can be done in other ways more practically.
I made a moon that uses this technique for black/white/grey…as the technique evolves I can see it moving into 3D space and more than just color globes, I think it’s smart…
Was thinking exactly the same. A lot of plastic and Ressources wasted to mimic a low res color copy on transparent paper. Different thing with an actual moon lithosphere. It's a sphere and not a plane and it's a black and white object. So an ideal fit for 3D printing a moon-lamp with white filament. But transparent 2D color images? Man...
So a printer that acts like... a printer. Cool!
Incredible! This is very clever.
Far out that is so clever and great to see. Thanks Laurie NZ
In Cura I have created a dual-extruder Ender 3 V2 where the extruder-change G-code is just „M600“. This works perfectly - as you suggested! I have used this to print some simple multi-colored prints.
Thanks for the info!
I did the same in prusa slicer. Works well if you only need a few filament changes. Also it will start the next layer with the color already loaded, so one change less!
I used it to print key caps with labels upside down to have a smooth surface.
How did you create the multi-extruder Ender 3 Cura machine definition? I've been trying to figure out how to create the multi-extruder definition in a way that will still allow me to import Ender 3 print profiles, but the "Custom FFF" definition has different default profiles, and if I use the Ender 3 one then I can't add multiple extruders... :/
@@zombieofthepast Prepare Workspace > Printers Dropdown > Manage Printers > Machine Settings > Printer [Printhead Settings] - Number of Extruders 4 > Extruder 1 Workspace [Extruder End G-code] M600 > Extruder 2 Workspace [Extruder End G-code] M600 > Repeat for Extruder 3 and Extruder 4 > Click-off the text box so it actually saves the Gcode text you just typed in > Close "Machine Settings"
You will now notice on the right that your Print Settings now has four columns for Extruder 1, Extruder 2, Extruder 3,and Extruder 4 - as indicated by the (1), (2), (3), and (4) icons respectively.
Adjust your Extruder 2, 3 and 4 settings to the secondary filaments you will print your dual extrusion with (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow). Personally, I just copy and pasted the settings from Extruder 1 to Extruder 2 because my printer has pretty consistent print quality for almost any PLA.
Also, you may want to make the following 3 Nozzle temperatures for each of the extruders the same if you want to minimize stall time -> which can lead to zits/globs:
- Printing Temperature
- Initial Printing Temperature
- Final Printing Temperature
^ These 3 settings can affect your M104 (Set Hotend Temperature) and M109 (Wait for Hotend Temperature). Ideally, you do NOT want have to wait for your nozzle to reheat from the Waiting Hotend Temperature to the Printing Hotend Temperature after a filament change - especially if your nozzle is hovering just-over your print with filament oozing-out. If those 3 settings are the same temperature, there SHOULD be no wait time in theory. Even better, you may want to consider modifying those settings such that the Waiting Hotend Temperature is 1º higher than the Printing Hotend Temperature so it will start right away.
=======
ALSO, some key settings to modify can be found within the NEW Dual Extrusion section in the Print Settings menu:
- Enable Prime Tower
(if you want to use a prime tower) and other respective settings
- Enable Ooze Shield
- Nozzle Switch Retraction Distance ->
SUPER IMPORTANT; mine was defaulted to (+)16.0mm and would leave HUGE globs after the Filament Change and start of the new layer; (+)50.0mm left an even bigger glob; (-)2.0mm left a noticeable glob as well; IN THE END, I changed mine to (+)2.0mm which worked for me
- Nozzle Switch Retraction Speed
to match that of your extruder. I have an Orbiter v2.0, so mine is 120.0mm/s; yours will probably be lower
-Nozzle Switch Extra Prime Amount
@@x_jaydn Your guide is super useful! It is necesary to add an extruder for each color?
Amazing! I am Speechless
Amazing! Thanks for showing us this Stefan
My pleasure!
I bought a palette2 two years ago, I have used it twice but now I think I found a good for it.
Definitely give it a try. The palette 2 is prefect for that!
The reduced color resolution in digital imaging is referred to as chroma subsampling.
If I were to do that, I’d print the colored image in an acetate using a regular inkjet or colored laser jet printer instead. Then put a “cover” Lithopane on top.
This is amazing. I will Test it asap. Wow.
Please do!
@@CNCKitchen I works! Amazing. I would like to share my experience with you.
I walked by that table at MRRF and did not stop because I thought it was the standard lithphane with a color picture behind it. My fault for not being more observant.
Saw this at MRRF#2019 (along with seeing Stefan and Tom :D), really cool process. It appears much more refined now, can't wait to try it!
I totally overlooked that when I was at MRRF the first time!
@@CNCKitchen It was just in proof-of-concept phase back then, if I recall correctly. I don't even think he had an easy way to convert the images yet, he was doing it all manually in a photo software. Definitely was a "that's interesting" table then vs. a "I can do a video about this" table now.
Just add a normal paper printed photo behind the lithophane?
I gave this a go a while ago. I tried it with samples and it turned out good. I had some stringing issues (old samples) so image had random blue Web through it but it was good. Had issues with warping, corners would refuse to stay down as its a solid plastic plate printed flat and also had a nice jam in heartbreak near the end. Cool idea, cool picture. Alot of effort
Wow, looking impressive.
Thanks for sharing your video with All of us 👍😃
Very cool! Thanks for the video.
Bambu Labs getting a feature here. I will be trying this once my printer shows up this August. Holidays, birthdays, and special occasions are low hanging fruit!
Hope you enjoy it!
@@CNCKitchen now that the Kickstarter is complete and you’ve had even more time with the Carbon… Any other thoughts on the printer that would help a future owner?
Are you planning any videos about the 3d chameleon? Honestly I find it very interesting and would love review from you.
Currently not planning a review. Check out @Nero3D because he just received one.
I haven't done the color lithophanes with it, but that is how I do color swapping in Prusaslicer without a MMU
Finally my 3d printer can print my documents in color
3D printed color 3D printer manual ✌
I just printed my first color lithophane with my Bambu printer. It looks good except the colors are wrong. The primary character in the photo is green and it came out blue. I used the Bambu CYMW kit, so all my filaments were correct.
Perhaps a PETG would be better suited. I have at the moment pure saturated transparent yellow and cyan. Magenta one, I think, is not a problem to find. This will be the best solution for a contrasting color mask, since the main blur will be milky white.
CMYK = Cyan, Magenta, Yellow & Key, btw.
Yes, I know....
Combine white with a inkjet nozzle to add color on the go
years ago (2014) i designed a full colour 5 port in 1 nozzle out head for 5 bowden tubes (CMYKW) but no slicer support.
What a superb idea!
I have to try this. Gonna source the rigjt filaments
At 4:40 you mention that these must be printed flat to reduce the number of color changes. Is there any reason why you couldn't just print the color layers flat and then print the luminance layers vertically separately? That way you would get the convenience of fewer color changes but also reap the benefit of superior xy resolution for the luminance layers.
I have tried that but you get the same effect as when people just try slapping on a piece of colored paper on the back of a lithophane, the color becomes soft, not crisp, and ever so slightly blurry. It is something that is hard to explain but if you see it in person the drop in quality of not printing it in one piece is quite noticeable.
Hi Stefan, just a reminder. The 1000g 3DJake spools don't work with the BambuLab AMS, they are too wide! The 250g also don't work, they are too small. I ordered 1000g spools to try this out and failed.
Sunlu spools fit perfectly
Wow this is amazing
I was literally just about to print one of these. That’s some uncanny timing
Cool, hope it turns out great!
This is stunning!
Printed solid has the pure cyan and magenta filaments, which one should I get for yellow? There is bird yellow and neon yellow on the site but not pure yellow.
Yellow bird and quarter white for the white.
Yes that new Bambu would be interesting to try on this. Could have a lot of filament waste though
Only 16 color changes so surprisingly little waste. My purge tower only weighs 17 grams
Purging volume on the lithophanes is minimal due to the low number of color changes.
So by printing flat like this, you drastically reduce the color changes and thus waste, right?
I know what I'm gonna make my nephew for his birthday
Now where can I get this filament in ABS? I can’t work with PLA.
What is the advantage over just printing a picture on a colour inkjet printer and backlighting it?
more science and engineering went into that poster of Thor than the movie itself
2 years later i can finally do this easily :D
Very nice printer but what price
How about to print a color acetate and put it on the back of litophane?
Wouldn't using transparent color filament give much more vibrant colors?
hi! i would like to know if you maybe know about more sites that i can order these colors. unfortunately i can't order frow the sites that show showed to my country. thanks!! :)
Ok but the novelty of a lithophane is that it looks a bit incomprehensible until you shine a light behind it, and then you see a surprisingly clear, fairly detailed image made from nothing but varying thickness of plastic. Kind of neat in a roundabout way. On the other hand, by printing it flat you're drastically reducing the resolution available for that effect and simply masking that loss of detail with colors that could easily and more effectively be produced on a standard inkjet. It's just an overhead transparency with extra steps.
Disagree, shining light through a standard print looks nothing like this, also the resolution on the avengers photo in this very video is easily high enough to be used to print most art.
The actual lithophane on the front that sets the brightness and detail can still be printed vertical retaining the resolution.
Can you explain why you say that there are 16 filament changes necessary if printed with only one extruder? Shouldn't it be only 12 if the first layer is white followed by 5 colours plus white again? And why 5 colour layers and not 4? What's the point of the fifth?
Anybody have a link to a video on how to do this step by step without a multi color printer?
It's pretty easy. Set your slicer to use multiple extruders, set the filament change gcode to a pause (@pause for octoprint, depending on your firmware this will be different. you may also have to set a park location). import the stls, one per colour, they should import aligned but this will be slicer dependent, and set each stl to a different nozzle. Note the sequence of the colours per layer over the print and swap in the colours in the right order as the printer pauses. resume once you have purged the new colour through the nozzle.
If you let us know what slicer you have and what firmware you have, or if you use octoprint, then someone may be able to be more specific. I personally use prusa slicer and octoprint.
Ironically... you now created a very expensive hard to use normal printer...
Granted.. its really really cool. By the way, having higher luminanance resolution than collor is used in a lot of image compression software.
0:13 took me a few seconds to think whether he's real or 3d printed.
Very Nice. and FREE??? Amazing!!!
would like to try this can you do it on an Ender 3 pro. If so do you have to change filament a lot or can it print all one color then change filament and do the whole other color and then change one more time for the third color. Or would you have to change the film excessive around times.
I don't suppose this would work with a Prusa mini ?
It does, yet it requires ~16 manual material changes.
where are those epson , cannon , hp , brother and more , paper printing companies in the 3d printing technology ?
Hi, is there any setting-sheet for printing this with an bambu lab x1c? So in your Video you mean: set color layers to 0.08 and luminous layer to 0.05. But where can i set this? :D
aw man, doing the color changes manually sounds like such a pain😢 (but I’m doing it anyway!)
Thats awesome
I am printing with all the same settings on a Bambu lab x1 carbon bit are not getting near the clarity you guys are what am I doing wrong?
Wild!
If you can only print flat why not use an inktjet?
Does anyone have an alternative set of colours that are available in Australia?
I did multi colors print resently on prusa mini and prusaslicer. I HAD to make a custom wipe block/layer start location, because after color change it always created an ugly blob(prb because of m600 on mini). Otherwise it worked great
Is there any way someone has a video how to do this on like an ender 3. That would be awesome.
I been researching the Colored Lithophanes a lot in prep for Bambu Lab X1.
One thing I'm still confused is Lithophane Resolution (mm/pixel).
Colored Resolution per Jason's video is 2x your nozzle size. Default nozzle is 0.4mm, so it would be 0.8 colored resolution for most. For Bambu X1 that uses 0.2 mm nozzle, that is 0.4 colored resolution.
However I still don't get the lithophanne resolution, even with explanation that it is distance between pixels in the printed lithophane, so a value of 0.3 mm/pixel means that each unique lithophane thickness is 0.3mm apart in the x and y dimensions. I do know the smaller resolution = bigger file size, but I'm certain if there any hard limit like with color resolution with nozzle size.
There is no direct formula that I have figured out based on nozzle size and layer height. Until recently I just used the defaults but I did crank up the lithophane resolution for the leaf one and I think it made some improvement because of the small nozzle I was using.
It should not be nozzle size, but wall thickness that limits resolution. And you can set wall thinkness quite a bit lower then your nozzle diameter.
A pixel is a 2x2 wall square, so the mininum pixel distance is wallthickness times 2. Using a 0,2 nozzle and arachne slicer settings, I bet you could get a very high resolution...for a 3d print.
Can this be done with 4 separate prints? A C layer, a M layer, a Y layer, a regular white lithoplane layer and clamp them together?
Unfortunately not, because every color layer may include all of the 4 colors.
@@CNCKitchen Do you know if you could ink print onto a transparency and then 3D print the white layer onto the transparency to get a similar effect?
do you live in Germany or America? did you fly in for this show in Indiana?
He said europe, but he is german afaik
Germany - flew out only for the event.
It was never directly covered in the video but I'd love to know if you directly have printed any full color prints on your X1 carbon
The Van Gogh and the Colored Women's face was printed on my X1.
Could you do this on a resin 3d printer; having one VAT per resin color for example?
No, as each layer is not pure CYM color rather CYM for speicifc section. And Resin tend to get messy so i feel like would cause blending
Wonder what happens when RGB is used instead of cmy.
It just really wont look right
rgb is additive whereas cmyk is subtractive
Was thinking about if you could use this is some way that isn't for pure aesthetics and realised this could be implemented into a very cool light based escape room and has got me thinking more about colour theory and colours in general. Super interesting that you can make things like this now
How about a white layer with translucent cmyk layers on top to make a regular image without having to put light thru it?
Process:
1. Define cmyk levels into various amounts of translucent layers of c, m, y, k. Maximum of layers per primary color is up to the user and a formula can split it i to gradients based on max layer count
1. All-white layer
2. For each of cmyk, each layer of each color either gets its own set of layers (so each layer only has 2 filaments: primary color and fully transparent
3. For each primary color, print the amount of layers that are necessary for its intensity per pixel, printing transparent for layers whose intensity no longer require another translucent cmyk layer
If you wanna use an ams:
1. then for each pixel, stack up the necessary amount of layers for each primary color, each pixel starting at layer 2
2. Determine the pixel that uses the most amount of total layers. All other shorter pixels will be padded by transparent pixels on top, so the final result is flat. This is optional in case you dont need a flat top
I can definitely code an algorithm to do this
So is there an advantage to this over using an inkjet backing
Except Photoshop i do not find anything to separate in 4 separate files (cmyk) - for plotting with aerobrush or paintspray.
If someone knows any other way to do that (stand alone app if is posible), please let me know!
It s easy to buy a inkjet printer and have no idea how is work, but when u have to paint a large wall...
Does anyone know how to make or find this frame that is shown in the video ?, where the lithophanes are in the frames lighted
Maybe @patterntoprint can help you out! Check his website and Thingiverse page.
@@CNCKitchen Thank you, I'll try to search there. Also thanks for your work and videos that you make :)
The lightboxes I custom designed in Blender for each lithophane. I use a nightlight cord and a really bright LED bulb for the lighting.
@@PatternToPrint ok, thank you for the reply
That x1 carbon thoo
Bambu lab makes a Kit!
But, for what? You can colorize lithophane with simple printed photo in same logic (another colored layer) with better quality.
Very pale magenta you can buy it from esun lol
Круто, спасибо что рассказали про такие возможности 3д принтера. Даже и не знал что такое возможно.
Those secondaries are completely off color. It looks like amber, dark azure, and pink instead of cmy.
Cool
why? it would be way more time efficient & energy efficient to regular print onto OHP sheets. yes it's technically impressive but a massive case of just because you can doesn't mean you should.
Screen printing now in 3d
What's stopping you from modifying their code to actually slice a 3d object and just full color print?
I love 3D printing but I don't see how this is any better than a traditional 2D printer. Lower resolution and way more hassle.
I think the point is about being able to shine light through it, though I'm sure there are ways to do this with regular printers too, I think the texture and physicality of it is the point. It's also probably cheaper than paying to print on paper in any university (that was only slightly a joke)
@@BeefIngot The "texture and physicality of it" is the only real plus but it's not much of a plus given how thin the texture will be compared to a sculpture style print with paint.
this does not work on a fdm
16 manual filament changes? I'm out.
Time to fire up my ERCF once more after it eating dust for a few months
By the way, you are printing it wrong. Idealy you will be printing this standing, so the printer use z axis and x axis for movement, which is more precise than printing lying down.
Not wrong, just a different trade off. With 0.05 layer height and a 0.25 nozzle these, in person, look like they came out of a mold. It also eliminates visible layer lines which are prominent in vertical printed lithophanes unless the printer is tuned perfectly.
Voicecrack at 4:30 lol