Keep these coming. My dad use to competion shoot muzzle loaders. He was a well source for tips and tricks. He gone but I have his Tedd Fellows rifle and itching to get back into it. We allways had pillow ticking on hand for bulk patch material. Dad said it was the only material he found that the thinkness was consistent.
Folks your rifle will tell you how thick the patch it wants. A factory barrel rifled with a carbide button will have grooves cut about 8 thousands deep. A cut rifled, custom made barrel will be at least 10 thousands deep and pdobably 12 thousands deep. Get a patch material that is about 1 1/2 times as thick as your grooves are deep so when compressed the patch will fill the grooves. Pick a ball size that will start easy and go down the bore with one smooth stroke of the ramrod. A good lube will reduce friction and help protect the patch from burn-out as it goes out the rifle. The ball can be way under-size because the pressure of the powder charge will bump up the ball and force the patch into the grooves. A tight fit from larger diameter balls comes to us from the target shooting clan who used lighter charges, short starters, mallets and steel range rods. Old time hunters used none of those things. A load combination will have a sweet spot between ball bump up, or objuration, on the low end and patch failure on the high end, Somewhere in the middle is where the most accurate load will be found. I suggest you start with pillow ticking fabric and wash the starch out of it. No bleach. Then experiment with lubes. Cotton is vegetable so try different vegetable oils. Olive oil was popular when they could get it. Linseed oil, castor oil, or even corn or peanut oil can be tried. The best lube will allow for more powder and more powerfull hunting loads. Thats all for now. Good luck and good shooting. John Davis Jax Fl
+Stickfigureuniverse1 i fire shot out of my Hawken .50 cal. for small game, so it doesnt really matter. you just need to know how to load a rifle for shot is all. you have to load your charge, leather wad, then make a paper shot cup that comes apart at the muzzle and then finish the load with one more leather wad and thats worked fine for me on game up to turkey size. but only to about 20 yards max.
Howdy Steve!!!! Once again another great video. Keep em coming is all I can say. People need to learn the ways of old and finally see that in way are these skills, methods, or tools are obsolete or useless. I've been infatuated with this time period and lifestyle since I was a child and as I see it is the one to live by. I'm taking my .54 French and Indian War period rifle out tomorrow to sight her in. Wish me luck.
They say I’m an elitist because I shoot a flintlock smoothbore. I’m not an elitist and think if you want to shoot a flint rifle it’s all ok. Just do it in private and wash your hands when your done😀 Even elitist that I am I gots me one of the rifle guns😂
Like the two fellas before me, nice idea and I will try it. The only thing different I will do is something like I do now with my squared off or squared and cornered off patches is I use eastern maine shooting supplies premium lube. I let it get super soft, almost 'melted', dab the patch on one side and continue with more patches. I lay each patch on top of the lubed side of the previous patch in a pile. Once all my patches are completed, I then squeeze them all together until they're just a ball. Then I store them in a metal can. When I go out, I grab a supply and place those into a smaller tin for transport. With your idea, it'll just be one ball with a continuous string of pre lube patches to tear off my needed days supply.
What footwear do you use for general woods roaming? Off the wall I know! But, I need to ask down south the sticker bushes are fierce and find it difficult to use moccasins.
Critr. I have a .50 cal half stock Traditions Springfield Hawken. What would be a good charge to start with if Im using fff powder for my main charge. Please respond. Its important. Thanks for all you do.
I'm not Critr, but I have a .50 cal Pennsylvania rifle. The usual way to start finding the best load for your smokepole is to match the powder charge to the caliber of the gun, i.e. 50 grains of powder in a .50 cal. You then go up or down(usually up) in 5 grain increments until you discover which charge suits your gun best. If you intend to use the gun for hunting, heavier charges are usually the way to go
Would a commercial cast bullet lube work for lubing the patch material, or is it incompatible with black powder? The reason I ask is because I have lots of it around, since I cast a lot of bullets for smokeless rounds.
This has always bothered me, and never understand why people do this. If hand pressure isn't enough to seat the bullet, the rod lacks enough momentum to do better. As a bonus you can damage the ball which affects accuracy. Wouldn't it be better to mark your rod so you know when the bullet is properly seated?
Hi Steve, remember you from Dave Canterbury's videos of old. Do you make old school flintlocks? Would like to talk if you do. Contact me please. Thanks.
Makes good sense, people back then were practical and made things simple and efficient. Excellent video
Love the music.
Great video! Thank you. What recipe do you use for your fixin wax?
I appreciate your devotion to bush craft in period Steve.
Keep these coming. My dad use to competion shoot muzzle loaders. He was a well source for tips and tricks. He gone but I have his Tedd Fellows rifle and itching to get back into it. We allways had pillow ticking on hand for bulk patch material. Dad said it was the only material he found that the thinkness was consistent.
Very Nice video. Thank You Steve. I really like your channel.
Folks your rifle will tell you how thick the patch it wants. A factory barrel rifled with a carbide button will have grooves cut about 8 thousands deep. A cut rifled, custom made barrel will be at least 10 thousands deep and pdobably 12 thousands deep. Get a patch material that is about 1 1/2 times as thick as your grooves are deep so when compressed the patch will fill the grooves. Pick a ball size that will start easy and go down the bore with one smooth stroke of the ramrod. A good lube will reduce friction and help protect the patch from burn-out as it goes out the rifle. The ball can be way under-size because the pressure of the powder charge will bump up the ball and force the patch into the grooves. A tight fit from larger diameter balls comes to us from the target shooting clan who used lighter charges, short starters, mallets and steel range rods. Old time hunters used none of those things. A load combination will have a sweet spot between ball bump up, or objuration, on the low end and patch failure on the high end, Somewhere in the middle is where the most accurate load will be found. I suggest you start with pillow ticking fabric and wash the starch out of it. No bleach. Then experiment with lubes. Cotton is vegetable so try different vegetable oils. Olive oil was popular when they could get it. Linseed oil, castor oil, or even corn or peanut oil can be tried. The best lube will allow for more powder and more powerfull hunting loads.
Thats all for now. Good luck and good shooting.
John Davis
Jax Fl
I thought you were supposed use a fat product. For lube to season your barrel
But I'm listening tell me more
I have a few questions for muzzleloading firearms
1. Which is caliber is best for hunting
2. Which is better for hunting smooth bore or a rifled bore
+Stickfigureuniverse1 i fire shot out of my Hawken .50 cal. for small game, so it doesnt really matter. you just need to know how to load a rifle for shot is all. you have to load your charge, leather wad, then make a paper shot cup that comes apart at the muzzle and then finish the load with one more leather wad and thats worked fine for me on game up to turkey size. but only to about 20 yards max.
thats just totally kewl, never thought about doing that an ive been shooting bp guns almost all my life ... Excellent tip ...
That is brilliant! So glad I came across this video. Thank you for making and posting. Can't wait to give it a try.
Peace.
I didn't understand it….What's the name of that wax you are using on the patches? Thanks…..
Great video. Just got back from a French and Indian War reenactment. perfect video to watch
man, your video's and information are outstanding.
Thanks for sharing .
what kind of shoes you got on could not see well but that did not look like pucker toes? Thanks for another great video
Howdy Steve!!!! Once again another great video. Keep em coming is all I can say. People need to learn the ways of old and finally see that in way are these skills, methods, or tools are obsolete or useless. I've been infatuated with this time period and lifestyle since I was a child and as I see it is the one to live by. I'm taking my .54 French and Indian War period rifle out tomorrow to sight her in. Wish me luck.
Nice Video! But I learned not to use the flat hand to pull down the ramrod
+Meffes GotTheBlues Why?
if it snaps, you get a wood dowel through the palm of your hand
Would my wife's gesa dream sheets work ?
Good video to quote wyatt earp " fast is fine but accuracy is final".
They say I’m an elitist because I shoot a flintlock smoothbore. I’m not an elitist and think if you want to shoot a flint rifle it’s all ok. Just do it in private and wash your hands when your done😀
Even elitist that I am I gots me one of the rifle guns😂
are your fired patches burnt or just dirty? That seems to be a pretty thin patch to stop blow by.
Yes, bouncing the rod gives you inconsistent loadings, which will effect accuracy.
Like the two fellas before me, nice idea and I will try it. The only thing different I will do is something like I do now with my squared off or squared and cornered off patches is I use eastern maine shooting supplies premium lube. I let it get super soft, almost 'melted', dab the patch on one side and continue with more patches. I lay each patch on top of the lubed side of the previous patch in a pile. Once all my patches are completed, I then squeeze them all together until they're just a ball. Then I store them in a metal can. When I go out, I grab a supply and place those into a smaller tin for transport. With your idea, it'll just be one ball with a continuous string of pre lube patches to tear off my needed days supply.
What footwear do you use for general woods roaming? Off the wall I know! But, I need to ask down south the sticker bushes are fierce and find it difficult to use moccasins.
Nice idea, i've been cutting squares, will have to try leaving a bit like you and carrying a roll.
Nice one Bro
Thanks for the info!
Critr. I have a .50 cal half stock Traditions Springfield Hawken. What would be a good charge to start with if Im using fff powder for my main charge. Please respond. Its important. Thanks for all you do.
I'm not Critr, but I have a .50 cal Pennsylvania rifle. The usual way to start finding the best load for your smokepole is to match the powder charge to the caliber of the gun, i.e. 50 grains of powder in a .50 cal. You then go up or down(usually up) in 5 grain increments until you discover which charge suits your gun best. If you intend to use the gun for hunting, heavier charges are usually the way to go
love the videos man !!!
Would a commercial cast bullet lube work for lubing the patch material, or is it incompatible with black powder? The reason I ask is because I have lots of it around, since I cast a lot of bullets for smokeless rounds.
Much thanks for sharing. With all your valuable info, I may just have to get myself a Flintlock.
This has always bothered me, and never understand why people do this. If hand pressure isn't enough to seat the bullet, the rod lacks enough momentum to do better. As a bonus you can damage the ball which affects accuracy. Wouldn't it be better to mark your rod so you know when the bullet is properly seated?
Start with 50 grains imo. The good place to start is a grain per .01" of bore.
As long as it is not petroleum based, it should work fine.
If I use a thin patch it burns up and I lose accuracy. I discovered the Swiss powder is a lit hotter than goex
What type and caliber of smoothbore (musket) do you normally use?
Brilliant. Thanks for sharing.
im going to try this, thanx.
Thanks bud! I will try that.
Hi Steve, remember you from Dave Canterbury's videos of old. Do you make old school flintlocks? Would like to talk if you do. Contact me please. Thanks.
It is better to bouncy the ram rod once you have the ball what you think is swatted. Otherwise you risk not having it totally swatted.
great stuff, as always. :)
You can take them hickory nuts boil them and dye your shirts.
I like how you cut through most of the patch so you can tear it away.. I,ve always used my knife but I really like this and will try it out .
I dig it..