Thanks fella, I mainly silicon bronze TIG any stainless to copper nowdays but still solder copper-to-copper unless it's very heavy pipe or fittings ... - then back to silicon-bronze TIG. Happy distilling!
@@AngryParrotDistillery thats awesome, i can't TIG for the life of me. What fluxe and solder did you use? I struggle to get silver solder in my country...
Thanks Ray! Yeah they do look pretty all polished up, especially to booze-making, copper-magpies. Also makes some pretty mean whisky and rum. 😊 The right tools help but most of the stuff I used in this vid' is pretty much home handyman stuff, I didn't have any supa-dupa kit back then. Nowdays I do a lot more TIG brazing/welding on the stills I make - especially around ferrules, for extra strength. Happy Distilling!
Hey there again. Just about finished making the 2" combination still and wanted to thank you for all your help during the build. What a job soldering the stainless to copper. Visited local welding supplies for advice. Got correct flux for the job and hey presto. Can't wait to get this beauty up and running. Never distilled in my life before but have read myself stupid. Keep em coming buddy.👍
G'day Mel, Congrats on the build! Yep, low-temp stainless to copper is a mission at times, rough the surface, clean it, clean it, clean it - and have the right flux definitely! I've very recently swapped over to silicon-bronze TIG brazing large stainless to copper after coming up against the limits of what my Mapp gas could handle but it's certainly good for 2inch work. ua-cam.com/video/Ak9WiRoHPJo/v-deo.html Happy Distilling Mel!
Thanks Rainbow. Yes, a lot of people overlook the significance of matching/curve fitting components in order to get a good reliable joint. Happy Distilling!
Thanks Doc! Would be keen to see what you come up with, cool thing about it is everyone has their own take on it and their own solution based around what they have access to. Happy Distilling!
You did the right thing with the water. Ideal one would have two different solders with each their melting points..but never mind the old plumbers trick with water works. That dephlegmator is enormous..! My first thought was it would be a product condenser. You can run a 2" still with far less than that...I'd say a 150-200 mm worth of dephlegmator. However, as you have build it modular, you'll always have the option of changing the parts around. Well done..!
G'day Kalle, Yep I understand the dephleg' is large for a 2" column but I had in mind sticking it on something a little more substantial than a 50L still kettle at some stage so added a little extra volume. :o) Had a few issues just recently with copper-stainless bonding with low temp silver solder and liquid flux when it has worked no problem before. Actually picked up some very-high-temp silver brazing flux on the way into work just this morning so going to re-do the job with that and some pro-silver rods. :o)
Oh, I see. Well a 50 L kettle, would almost be like having a beer keg as a kettle. If you ever feel the urge for speeding things up, a 3" column would be fine on such boiler size. A good rule of thumb is: Height=purity, Diameter of the column=takeoff speed. Indeed stainless can be a b*%#! to solder on. You have to be absolutely positive that you get the thin oxidated layer clean off before fluxing and soldering. I silver solder all my stainless with a solder that has 5% AG. The only downside was my plumber's torch didn't quite cut it. So I had to invest in one with a higher temperature or Oxy/Acetyl. I think you'll be fine with the silver rods and the high temp flux. Just remember to heat indirectly to get the thing up in temp. Stainless ain't a good heat conductor so it will draw a lot of heat before is ok. Good luck with your project..!
Hey fella - yep, borrowed a oxy/acetyl kit recently for a large 4" stainless jacket product condenser I was building for myself. With Mapp gas I just couldn't get enough heat into the heavy jacket and ferrules to get the solder to bond onto the stainless otherwise - kept getting pinholes, grrr. I treat stainless to copper soldering same way I do aluminium welding in that the surface has to be buffed back and wiped cleaned with acetone until it's immaculately clean or it's not worth starting. :o)
ckontny123 G'day fella, never used a straight acetylene torch - has always been oxy-acetylene. Would depend entirely on the heat it can put out - needs to be in excess of mapp-gas, … closer to oxy-acetylene.
Sandwich the copper plate between two pieces of ply screwed together, glue the templates to the ply and then drill the holes you will always get round hole,s to size with no distortion and almost zero burrs.
PS: When you are using hydrofluric acid, you can throw garden lime on it after it has done its thing to neutralise it. I always keep some handy when I am painting it on, if I get any on me (which to date I have not) then you can use it in the same manner. :)
Hey thats a very cool idea! I never used to keep a base around to neutralize it - I just suited up, had some very sturdy gloves and was bloody careful, ... results using it were like magic tho' - always liked washing the stuff off and seeing mint S/S beneath it. Been trying to find somewhere in NZ that was willing to sell small amounts - all seems to be bulkish now.
G'day fella, Thanks! I've been a bit slack in the last few months - have a bunch of videos I need to edit together and get up here heh. Definitely more to come. :o)
G'day! Thanks, haven't done much in the way of videos for the last few months. I do have number sitting in the computer I need to edit together but have been spending most of my time working on a commercial still for myself or doing jobs for other people. Happy Distilling!
Hey you are welcome fella. I should redo this vid with how I make them nowdays with a combination of TIG brazing and silver soldering. Merry Christmas and Happy Distilling! 😊
Yep! :o) Made a few stills/condensers etc for people in the last year - 2", 4" and bigger, I get the baffles laser-cut now days - saves a hell of a lot on my labor as cutting the baffles out is very time consuming and if you are doing a large number it's a right pita. Although, if you are doing a one off for yourself - as this initial one was, then the labor cost is not an issue. :o)
Thanks Thomas. I tend to sit down and plan out things ahead of time, amass the components, check everything fits and works together before beginning fabrication. No surprises that way. :o)
G'day Mel, Yes they both have similar construction and similar function. "Dephlegmator" or "Reflux Condenser" is the much shorter of the two, sometimes they'll have a thermometer in the base of them, sometimes they'll have a thermometer or probe ports top and bottom (so you can see the temp' differential of the vapor path above/below the dephlegmator), sometimes they won't have any thermometer at all. :o) Its job is to chill the vapor path enough that you end up with all, or at least the less volatile components of the vapor path falling back down the still column and creating a reflux in the packed column below. As you initially ease back the cooling running through the dephlegmator you end up with the more volatile components coming across and thru the still head. The Product Condenser is a lot larger and it's job is solely to condense the vapor path into cooled liquid product - hence they are larger/longer - more surface area. Last thing you want is alcohol vapor coming out the end of your still - especially if you are running on gas/flame. I try and use copper for all my condenser internals - even if I make them with stainless outer jackets nowdays - copper is 15x to 20x more efficient than stainless as a heat exchanger.
Not heard of "Pratley steel" ... it's not some sort of epoxy based filler/joiner like "knead-it" is it? - in which case you should steer well clear of it.
... yep, just did a quick interwebz search - it's an epoxy putty - definitely do NOT use that stuff on a still. Basically if it's not recognised food-grade or food-safe application don't touch it. I limit my work to; TIG welding (stainless to stainless) TIG welding (copper to copper) TIG brazing silicon bronze (stainless to copper) Lead/Cadmium free silver bearing solid wire solder (copper to copper - especially fine/thin stuff) The silver soldering is the cheapest and fairly accessible on home workshop budget. You really don't want to use anything else (apart from PTFE tapes/gaskets or corn-paste sealant if you wanna go old school) or you will contaminate your product and put your health at risk. Theres alot to distilling in both building a still and the practice of running it - you can screw up and poison yourself in both instances. Happy Distilling tho' Fujiar, make sure you read up before you jump in the deep end. :o) Especially read around the topics of food-safe materials (as above) and removing foreshots (methanol/acetate/light distillates).
Hey sir I have a welding question for you... Does sugaring affect the integrity of a stainless steel welds and would it leach nasty products into your end product?
Benzomatic (tm) "Lead free silver bearing solid wire solder" ... heh-heh. Thanks - glad you liked it. Started doing this stuff about 2 years ago and its become massively addictive! :)
Heya Peter, Water runs inside the jacket, the ferrules are outside the enclosed space for the water so can be soldered seperately. I've made a stack of these things subsequently and found that keeping a bit more distance between the baffle and the ferrule made enough of a difference that I didn't have to run water thru' the jacket. Once I started TIG brazing the ferrules with silicon bronze I do them in reverse order - TIG S/B braze the ferrules with the baffles/tubes just sitting in place then after it's cooled down, soft-solder the baffles/tubes. Happy Distilling.
Heya Peter. Correct. 😊 I usually use copper mesh or stainless steel scrubbers - not that I do reflux runs that often. The sprung bow is enough to hold the packing in. If I was going to use rashing rings or some kind of granular packing I'd probably look at permanently fixing some kind of baffle plate (like the condenser baffles) permanently into the bottom of the column. Happy Distilling!
That would make it A LOT easier. Unfortunately they are not readily available in my country. Downside is being soft copper they will wear a lot faster against the stainless tri-clamps. Good luck. Would be keen to know what you think of them after using them for a while. Nowdays I silicon bronze TIG braze any copper-to-stainless joins. Stronger and less hassle. 👍
T is at the top to allow some flexibility. Is possible to have it open and drop a cooling coil down the centre of it rather than using a dephlegmator. Keeps the system flexible depending on what folks want. But you are right, 90deg elbow also does the job and still I've subsiquently sold ended up with elbows instead of T's just to simplify things. 👍 Happy Distilling!
@@AngryParrotDistillery Thanks for the answer, and does the dephlegmator have to be removed for simple pot-still distillation? Can it stay there but not connected to the water supply? How much in NZ does such a column cost from pipe 54? Best regards from PL
@@AngryParrotDistillery Sorry, I mean, does the reflux adapter have to be removed for simple distillation? and the next question, is it possible to use soldered connections instead of tri-clamp connections. The column will not be transported etc. Should the cooler be bent in relation to the column or can it be permanently vertical? greetings
@@robertweglik9238 G'day Robert, can be mounted verticle. Would work better mounted on an angle as the vapor is not in freefall and instead "crashes" against the cold condenser tubes as it decends.
I use around 2mm for the baffles, sometime 3mm if I have it. You want it nice and solid - especially if you make your condenser quite long. Happy Distilling!
G'day Damon, Band called Hayseed Dixie. I think the track is called "Hungover Breakdown". They're kind of bluegrass-rock cross over (Rock-grass). Do their own music plus a lot of covers, Queen, Motorhead etc with a hillbilly treatment lol. If you like that you should also check out a band called "Steve-n-Seagulls", they do some great Rockgrass "ACDC" covers. Happy Distilling!
Heya Thapelo, Sorry for the late reply. The jacket is 2" (50mm) copper tube and the cooling tubes are 1/2" (15mm). Problem is different countries work on different tube and pipe schedules, some go by outside diameter and some go by internal. Where you wanting the pdf patterns of the baffle layouts? I'm planning on doing a mass mailout soon if you can give me an email address. Happy Distilling!
nice looking set up, really enjoying watching your vids . On the stainless to copper joins which flux and solder are you using? The 50 mm copper tube I have is a very tight fit onto the ferrule, would annealing the end of the tube then forcing it over the ferrule work. I'm just getting the bits together to build a pot still modular system similar to this to upgrade latter to reflux. You can thank Still it for the questions as i found your channel after watching his. Cheers Simon
G'day Simon, Stainless to copper I use a lead free, "50/50" silver bearing solder - food grade/plumbing grade, don't be tempted to use anything other than lead-free plumbing grade. :o) Aside from the toxicity issue , I chose it because it has a lower working temp' (around 430 degC) than ProSilver type brazing solutions which means it doesn't anneal hardened copper water pipe and can be worked on easily with Mapp gas. Flux is a La-Co, F-400 liquid flux (a generic all-purpose soldering flux). I was using Comweld 965 but it became harder to find here in NZ and cost much more. Just remember to avoid getting a lung full of the vapor when you apply it to a hot copper surface - it will mess you up. Yep, the 50mm s/s ferrules are a tight fit into copper pipe but I don't have much trouble by the time I've toothed the outside of the ferrule (belt sander) and the inside of the pipe at the join, fluxed them and then tap them home with a soft mallet. Make sure you wear googles just incase the flux sprays. Yeah Jess' over at Still-It is a "GC" ! LOL Happy distilling Simon.
Ah hehe ain't always the way, ... Good thing with the stainless ones is they'll be MUCH harder wearing, I imagine after cranking down the tri-clamps over a few runs the copper ferrules may start marking up a bit, ... would certainly be A LOT easier to manufacture tho'! Happy Distilling!
I very much enjoyed the vid, cheers! Does the thermometer measure temp of the water in the jacket or should the thermometer be in the column below where the water jacket starts in order to measure the temp of the steam before it enters the defleg tubes? Thanks!
G'day, glad you liked the vid. The thermometers I have put into this still measure the vapour temp' above and below the reflux column/ dephlegmator. I've heard of people measuring water jacket temp for automated cooling systems etc - I've not messed around with that yet. Happy Distilling!
G'day Fouad, 2inch tri-clover ferrules. If the pipe schedule in your country is different you can get "expansion ferrules" which are slightly oversize. Happy Distilling!
Hey, thanks for uploading such an informative video - I have a couple of questions if you're up for it: - What is the name of the compass-like tool that allows you to scribe into metal? I'm only familiar with the type that hold pencils. - Have you ever tried a reflux run without packing using only the dephlegmator? I've been thinking on this a lot and I want to try making a still that doesn't have any expendables. I feel like copper scrubbing pads getting used up is such a waste! Thanks in advance and beautiful work - I never realized I could do that with a dremel!
I'd also love to know how you got that thermometer on without using a thermowell - I understand your description, but it would be great to see it apart if you have the time / inclination. Thanks again! Edit: I just went and watched the first part of the cleaning run where you wrap the teflon tape around the thermometer's threads. Can you confirm that you're threading the thermometer directly into that brass fitting? My partner and I are putting together a miniature combo still like this one but we're currently using a tri clamp cap with an inbuilt thermowell. I'm considering getting a plain cap and drilling into it to copy your method if possible!
The compass is a compass hehe - engineers compass, has a scribe/point on both ends. I don't run a lot in reflux - mainly got into this to makes heavy flavourful whiskies. You need some kind of packing or bubble plates below your dephleg or you don't get any reflux at all. You're welcome fella. Happy Distilling! 😊
G'day Roger, Thanks. It is indeed a soft solder AND a silver solder - technically it is; "lead-free silver bearing solid wire solder" (that's what you'd ask for over the counter). Plumbers use it all the time. I believe you are thinking of "silver brazing" where you do apply a lot more heat and use a brazing wire (something like a prosilver 34T/45T brazing rod/wire - has no cadmium or lead) and you'll need a specialized brazing flux instead of the general purpose acidic zinc-chloride liquid flux you use for soldering. Some advantages to "soldering" over "brazing" is that you don't end up annealing (softening) the copper (if you are using hardened copper waterpipe for example) and it's a lot easier for "guys in sheds" to do with comparably low-cost low-heat mapp or propane gas setups. Happy Distilling! :)
Cheers for the explanation on the flux you are using. Im using the paste that comes with the burnsomatic silver solder from mitre ten. That stuff pretty much turns to tar when it gets to temp and forget about soldering the ferrels in! The solder just balls up and falls off the side!! Ill have a look for some liquid stuff tomorrow. What brand flux do you use? Ps; your still looks amazing!! Id be stoaked if mine turnd out to be half of what you have made!!
G'day Nick, Happy New Year! I buy my lead-free silver-wire solder from Mitre 10 (not many other places carry it) but not much else. I use a generic generic liquid flux - you can find similar at Global Welding or BOC in N.Z. The one I used in the videos here is an "F-400" and it's "LA-CO" brand - I got it from Global Welding Supplies. You want to make sure it is zinc-chloride flux and it will usually mention "suitable for stainless steel" somewhere on the pottle. In the last 6-12 months I've started getting away from soft-soldering stainless to copper and tend to Silicon-Bronze TIG braze those kind of joins - especially if they are large and load-bearing like a 4inch column or some such. That wasn't an option when I first started out doing this stuff and the soft solder works fine if you have some patience and persevere with it. Happy Distilling!
Thanks Tim, I've run this on a 50L "keggle" (build for that is in another video I made), I've run it on 2500W and also on a 3000W element with a variable power controller ( It should easily work on a smaller 2kW element and I've done a quick water-test with one just to see how fast it would heat) - on my actual runs I was just using what I swiped from my larger still. Benefit of a smaller element is that you can run it off a standard domestic 10amp wall socket. When you with larger elements you start requiring special workshop style 15amp wall plugs and heavier wiring in the walls back to the fuse box. Once you get the still up to temp' where you are beginning to take foreshots/product you are dialing the power right back anyways. Happy Distilling!
Currently planning to build a pot still out of a 50L Keg with a 5500w element (controlled so that I can dial it down) for Rum/Whiskey/Brandy (not vodka). If I go the shotgun way What would you recommend for the height of the column and the diameter? Also what length/diameter would you recommend for the shotgun?
G'day Maxime, I have a video up recently of a 50L stainless beer keg conversion I've done to fit this copper combo still. General rule of thumb is height for purity, diameter for draw-off speed (ie; how much alcohol you can feed it - relies on the size/charge of your kettle to a greater extent). I started with a 4" column on the first potstill I built (I have videos of it on my channel) but that was future proofing it as I knew I would be transfering the column/still-head to a larger kettle eventually. 2" diameter should be fine for a 50L kettle and it's pretty much what everyone doing a home-build defaults to (2" copper tube is also A LOT cheaper than 4") . 5500W is lots of power in a 50L - I'm running 6kW (2x 3kW) in a 180L charge kettle and it's none too slow. You would want to make sure you have a low density (large surface area) element, or you could risk scorching your wash at full power - even more so with heavier/denser washes as you get with flavorful Rums and Whiskeys. I went with a 2" diameter 1 metre long column (partly so I could pack it to use in reflux config') and about a 500-600mm long shotgun condenser for this rig. Works out ok on a 50L kettle. Happy Distilling!
Angry Parrot Distillery thank you so much for such a detailed answer. My element is ULWD so I should not be scorching anything. I can also adjust the power output in % using my PID. How long does it take you to do a full run using a 50L keg and a 2" column?
G'day Maxime, Varies - depending on wash, alcohol content, whether I'm doing a stripping run or a finishing run. I do bring the 50L up to temp' slowly to avoid scorching the wash, either on the element with electricity or on the bottom of the kettle with gas - when I've been running the 50L on gas banjo it usually around 2.5 - 3 hours to come up to temp from memory and start outputting product. Running a single pass on something like a rum with a thumper on my 50L, it's generally 5-6 hours from firing it up, to turning off - but like I say, it can vary, I've done stripping runs that have been a lot faster. If I'm doing a finishing pass or a single pass with the thumper I'm not pushing it at all. Distilling something flavorful like a fruit brandy or a single malt whisky I'm going to be especially gentle, but when stripping the guts out of a down and dirty sugar-wash maybe not so much. :o) Best thing is not to be in a rush - you will taste the difference. ~Happy Distilling.
What do you think of a 100% stainless build plugged with copper mesh : column/shotgun ? would you recommend it or would you go with copper? and why? thanks
G'day Maxime, I've done exactly that with my 4" build for my HWC kettle (about 180L) the same 4" build will transfer across onto my 600L kettle when that is finished (aiming towards a small craft distillery). See my "4" s/s Lyne arm" video for some current (Feb 2018) images of that. If anything I would eventually go with a 4" copper column (vapor path contact) to replace the S/S - but that's an expense that can wait (hundreds and hundreds of dollars just in 4" copper tube) and I got my 4" s/s tube for a dirt cheap price. If I'm running reflux I'll have copper packing in the 4" stainless column, my 4" dephlegmator is copper and the internals for my 4" shotgun condenser will all be copper (with stainless jacket). I love copper, but 4" copper is SO expensive and if it's not directly in contact with the vapor path its really a bit of a waste. I would try and get SOME copper contact in the vapor path, I know people that swear black and blue it makes a difference and I believe them. There is a vid on youtube of a HUGE brandy distillery with a inch and a half condenser outlet and you can SEE copper sulphate crystals forming/precipitating out of the distillate so there is method to the madness. ua-cam.com/video/UjFkyWbmqfU/v-deo.html Happy Distilling!
Hi I try to do same thing lake you but when recieved 2" fellure the size is different, my fellure going inside 2"tube tell me what tipe fellure you use and where to buy
G'day Lyubomir. I'm using standard Triclamp ferrules, and standard schedule copper pipe I source off the shelf here in NZ. The s/s ferrules are approx 51mm outside diameter and the copper pipe happens to be the same inside diameter so they telescope nicely. If the copper tube/pipe schedule in your country is different (turns out in some countries it is possible it may be the same outside diameter as your triclamp ferrules) then you could look for a stainless steel " triclamp expansion ferrule" - those should fit over the outside of your copper tube in that case. Please let me know if this helps you. Happy Distilling!
G'day, the column section in this was approx' one metre long. Overall the kettle and column stand around 1.8 metres - a little under 6 feet tall. Happy Distilling.
Hey Grant, When doing a run do you use copper, rashings, marbles etc in the column. If so are these used when running in both configurations I.e.pot and reflux.? Cheers.
G'day Mel, It's "Grant" :o) I rarely run in reflux setup - most of the time I'm making rum or whisky and pot-still or pot-and-thumper config' is better for carrying those flavors over. When I do run the hi-octane in reflux I pack the column with copper mesh (rashing rings are pretty expensive here). At some stage I'll build some sight-glasses and bubble plates and have a play, theres a bit more of a grey-area/cross-over using those. Happy Distilling!
Heya Peter. I usually just bend a piece of stainless welding rod into a spring "bow" shape that sits on the ferrule just inside the column. Having it removable makes cleaning the column out a lot easier. Happy Distilling!
I'm going to do something similar,tell me would not it be enough smaller cooler? spiral or other type? Mash will be made of yeast and sugar.What is the height of this dephlegmator? What is the performance of this equipment? How many liters per hour?
G'day John, Smaller condenser? I have this still fitted to a 50L kettle and I wouldn't go any smaller on the condenser. Spiral condenser - you mean a flake stand/worm like I made on my 50L pot still video? I love the flakestand and worm condenser. It is VERY efficient and does not require a large water flow once it is full. I have had my flakestand running with a much larger still/kettle and it managed to cool it no problem. Yeast and sugar wash/mash - so you are making vodka spirit then? You'll want some kind of reflux column then like this. Dephlegmator is 300mm long - proportionally this is very long for a dephlegmator, I made it this way so I can have a huge amount of control over it and completely shut-down the vapour path into reflux if I want too. Litres per hour/performance, ... that's not an easy question "how long is a piece of string" - so many variables; %abv of your wash, whether you are running it as a pot still or in reflux, whether you are on a stripping run or a spirit pass - whether you are running it fast and cruel or taking your time ... If you put it on a 50L keg-kettle like I have I don't think you be disappointed lol.
Hello. I'm going to make spirits 96% I would like to have a quick alcohol reception can I get it on your equipment? Have you seen this video? ua-cam.com/video/9zn19k4CZMM/v-deo.html
G'day John, That looks like a Boka style still. It's another form of reflux still - just like the still design here can also be used in reflux mode - they work differently but similar result. They can both extract very high abv alcohol %. With all reflux stills - the faster you run them the lower the % alcohol that comes off. Run them slower for the high %abv you are talking about. ***It is VERY important*** If you decide to build a Boka-type still, DO NOT make a "closed system" - that is very dangerous and is basically a pressurized bomb. The top of the column above the reflux condenser needs an opening to be able to vent out the pressure. It is VERY important you understand that John - a lot of videos I've seen showing Boka stills being run/built don't make this obvious.
What would you advise me? As I wrote earlier,I care about power and speed. to do the equipment like yours? tell me how much time is needed to take on 5l of alcohol 90-95% on your machine?
G'day Derrick. I laid them up myself in a cheapie CAD package called Draftsight. If you want to flick me a PM with an email address I'm happy to email you a .PDF you can print yourself.
G'day Michael, Fairly low, probably around 5-10% in soft plumbing solder. Technically, it's called a "silver bearing solid wire solder". In brazing rods like prosilver 35T or 45T you can get much higher but they get very expensive and requires a lot more heat than propane or mapgas can provide at times - especially if you are working on larger pieces the act as more of a heatsink and wick-away the localized heat. Happy Distilling!
Yep you're right - could have done that for sure … 4" metal cutting holesaw is kinda pricey where I am and I don't make baffles that often. Have been waiting til I had some lasercutting work to do and outsourcing a batch to a metal laser-cutters. I have smaller holesaws I could have used for the 2" but didn't want a hole thru' the centre of the 2" baffle. With the smaller tube-holes I went small and then lightly filed them out to make press-fits. Happy Distilling!
G'day fella, was using a generic liquid soldering flux, recently started using a hi-temp generic soldering flux (comes as a dark-grey paste in a small pot) have very recently been given over to silicon bronze brazing where appropriate.
Now that's a HORRIBLE thing to accuse a man of, slighting my ancestors with a genetic disposition toward criminal behaviour ... what have I ever done to you Sir? (Kiwi 🤣 ) Happy Distilling !
Nice piece of work. However with this copper work you are soft soldering not silver soldering. And you certainly would not be welding. Soft solder to food grade uses a tin/silver solder (as opposed to a tin/lead mix) and is called soft soldering. Hard soldering uses something like silver or a bronze filler whereas welding uses the same metal (or very similar) to create the joint. I used to teach metalwork in schools... I really like your work, the way you organise yourself and the skills you demonstrate with your available resources.
Thanks Martin. Yep correct - silver-bearing solid wire solder. Food/Plumbing grade soft solder. Think I've listed the exact materials and flux below a few times for folks. I used it back in the day when I did these vids as it was about all I had access to at the time, Mappgas wasn't hot enough for silver brazing. I nowdays make similar units for people and use few soldered joins - mainly copper to copper coz it penetrates even a mechanically tight join so well. Copper to Stainless I now TIG silicon bronze (that can be quite a pain in the butt using soft silver-bearing solder and acid based flux), Stainless to stainless I just straight TIG weld. If I had an oxy-acetylene rig I probably do a fair bit of work with silver brazing but the setup cost with bottle rentals and outlay is a bit crazy here. Happy Distilling.
G'day, yes I did. Soft, lead-free, silver-bearing plumbing solder, and a general purpose liquid soldering flux. Copper to copper is infinitely more easy than stainless to copper which takes a lot more heat with the 4" ferrules but once you do it a number of times you click with it and it's not such a mission anymore. You could silver-braze it but it takes a lot more heat (I use Mapp gas for soldering), will require a different flux and will generally anneal (soften) your nice hard copper water pipe.
Angry Parrot Distillery that is incredible! I had such a hard time getting 2" pipe to 2" ferrule... Used all sorts of methods and here you are doing it with exact same solder i have and i didnt think would work :-( I have one more to do, will give your method a try Your stuff looks very nicely made!
G'day fella, Thanks very much! Try applying the heat to the stainless steel ferrules first, it will dissipate out thru' the copper quickly enough. Also abrade the stainless first - put a good tooth on it and use plenty of flux. Happy distilling!
I watched you do it, looks great, but when trying to solder the ferrules to the ends , since more heat, is there likely chance of the extra heat making the 5 tubes becoming un-soldered??
G'day JB, If you absolutely blast it - especially with something like a oxy-acetylene kit you could potentially de-solder the baffles, although you'd be more likely to loosen the join between the baffle and the jacket than the tubes within the baffles (there's a lot of heat dissipation in those tubes). I'm quite gentle and strategic in how I apply the heat - think I mention that in one of my vids about planning out how you were putting things together.. If it was an issue for you there are copper-soldering ferrules available online - not as hard wearing as the S/S ones (and more expensive) but they would solder a lot more easily. Pre-soldering the joints can help - so that you already have the separate join surfaces tinned with silver solder and then you are just heating them to the point that the silver solder melts together and seals - this is very helpful for some S/S-to-copper joins. Other solution if that is an issue for you is you could run water through the jacket whilst soldering the ferrules (although it counters the heat you're putting into the copper) - I used to do this (and I think I may actually have done so in this vid) - but I haven't needed to for a long time now and it's not necessary if you are careful with your heat application. Happy distilling!
G'day Peter, Glad you like it! :o) Overall length tri-clamp to tri-clamp is 370mm, internal jacketed cooling tube portion is 300mm long. Happy to send you PDF's of the baffles if you like.
Got you msg - templates are sent. Heads-up to while I was thinking about it, ... if I was building this dephlegmator again I would make it around 30mm longer at the bottom so it could stand upright on a surface without my thermometer dial stopping it from sitting flat. - Depends on what type of thermometer you are using.
G'day fella, This 2" still is designed to work on a 50L kettle - maybe up to 80L. At 50L you'd be looking at a 2kW element or a propane 3-4 ring gas burner as a good starting point power-wise. If you wanted to do very quick stripping runs you'd need to go heavier power-wise.
G'day fella, sorry I didn't understand your question. The still can be run in two modes depending on what you are wanting to distill, for flavorful things you'd run it as a "pot-still". For neutral spirit/vodka you generally want to strip everything back to the raw spirit, you'd run it as a "reflux still"; That's the beauty of this combo-still design that by adding parts in or out like lego you can run different kinds of alcohol. 1) As a pot still for whisky/ rum/ brandy. (Run without the reflux condenser and without any column packing). In Pot still mode I'd expect to start taking off product (after foreshots) at around 75-80% ABV. 2) As a reflux column for neutral spirit/vodka. (Run with the reflux condenser in place above the column and the 1 metre column partially packed with copper mesh (you could also just use stainless pot-scrubber they are a lot cheaper). Once you have it running in full reflux mode you could expect to take off anywhere up to 95/96% ABV. The product % ABV in either mode is also affected by the initial alcohol strength of your wash or wine.
G'day Ryan, ... the copper sheet for the baffles? About 1.6mm - 2mm thick, ... basically whatever I come across cheaply. I'm an opportunist. ;o) I go thicker if I'm silicon bronze brazing nowdays but you can get away with the thinner stuff when silver soldering. Happy Distilling!
LemmingHerda mate struggling to figure it out. I have 12mm but cannot fit 5 piped in that baffle ring? How did you make the templates? I’m thinking it could be 10mm outside diameter?
G'day Peter, Definitely 15mm OD tube into a 50mm diameter baffle. I laid out the templates in a drafting package called "Draftsight" and then printed them onto A4 paper. Can send you a PDF if you like?
LemmingHerda that would be awesome if you could share it, thank you very much! Been going crazy trying to lay it out. And then my multitool snapped! Shitty uk product. Much appreciated
Yep, - I sell pretty much everything you see on my channel. I think you've got my email - welcome to email me if there's something you're after. Happy Distilling!
This video was shot quite a few years ago when such things we not so ubiqitous. A 2" to 3/4" copper reducer in my country for instance, carries a fairly hefty pricetag still. Happy Distilling.
@@boharris8179 Yeah the stuff you get off-the-shelf must be incredible. Down here on the bottom of the planet its generally make do with what you've got or make it yourself. Prices are a lot higher too as we don't have the population to allow large scale importation of most material, and our geo-loc is quite isolated. Kiwis developed a thing called "no.8 wire" methodology, which is taking common things around you and turning it into something normally unobtainable here. (No.8 fencing wire is a common comodity that gets used in suprizing ways to solve problems down here lol).
@@AngryParrotDistillery Hey I'm all about repurposeing things. Round here it's called afro-engineering well actually it's got a much less p.c. name but I'm sure you get the picture. I just built a 50 inch (1270)mm high reflux column with one online order to brewershardware.com One to supplyhouse.com and a trip to home depot. The 2in (51mm copper ferrule) will be in my mailbox any time today. The rest Monday. It's first section is 24inch (609.6mm)tall 51mm stainless spool off the keg to a 51mm sight glass then the head is 18in (457.2mm) tall of 51mm copper. To bad I can't send you a picture it's a work of art. I can't express how invaluable my 15 yrs experience as a plumber are when doing projects like this. All the videos I watch of guys trying to braze or solder is maddening. I catch myself yelling into my phone😂. Don't put flux on anywhere you don't want solder to stick. Or Jesus man back off the heat. Even when brazing being able to read the metal temperature by it's appearance key to getting it right. Well I've rambled on enough. Stay safe and keep on the good fight👍Happy Easter in advance. If not for Christ we would have a rough go come judgement day.
Thanks Rob! Will do. Got a few part edited at the moment that need a few more clips to finish. Doing one on my 4" "supa-dupa" condenser that I need to finish - but will put that up then. :o) Let me know if there's anything in particular you'd like to see.
G'day Robin, You mean a silver brazing rod like a Prosilver 34T or 45T yeah? I agree it would be nicer to use/stronger for stainless-to-copper, however when I started making these vids I was just using the basic stuff I had at home, - mapp gas, which isn't really hot enough to run silver brazing sticks (oxy-acetylene is much better). The silver-bearing soft solder is fine for copper-to-copper especially for guys doing this at home on a budget like I was. Nowdays I prefer Silicon-bronze TIG for any copper-to-stainless. Happy Distilling!
What would you advise me? As I wrote earlier,I care about power and speed. to do the equipment like yours? tell me how much time is needed to take on 5l of alcohol 90-95% on your machine?
Sure, I don't have my website up and running yet to post them, but if you give me an email address I can email them to you no probs. :o) Happy Distilling!
Hi, I am copying your still as have many others. I would be grateful if you could send me a link to my e-mail address for the baffle plates to your combo still so that I can print them off. This would be much appreciated.
Holy moly, your soldering is beautifull
Thanks fella, I mainly silicon bronze TIG any stainless to copper nowdays but still solder copper-to-copper unless it's very heavy pipe or fittings ... - then back to silicon-bronze TIG.
Happy distilling!
@@AngryParrotDistillery thats awesome, i can't TIG for the life of me. What fluxe and solder did you use? I struggle to get silver solder in my country...
Hi. Great job !! 🙂 Greetings from Poland .
Heya fella! Thanks.
Greetings from New Zealand.
That is a work of art, you put so much love into that with precision.....great when you have the right tools...
Thanks Ray!
Yeah they do look pretty all polished up, especially to booze-making, copper-magpies. Also makes some pretty mean whisky and rum. 😊
The right tools help but most of the stuff I used in this vid' is pretty much home handyman stuff, I didn't have any supa-dupa kit back then.
Nowdays I do a lot more TIG brazing/welding on the stills I make - especially around ferrules, for extra strength.
Happy Distilling!
Nice dude :) Glad to see you putting up some more vids!
Thanks! ... usual story, ... save up a whole buncha footage and squeeze out some vids in a patch of downtime! :)
Hey there again.
Just about finished making the 2" combination still
and wanted to thank you for all your help during the build.
What a job soldering the stainless to copper.
Visited local welding supplies for advice.
Got correct flux for the job and hey presto.
Can't wait to get this beauty up and running.
Never distilled in my life before but have read myself stupid.
Keep em coming buddy.👍
G'day Mel,
Congrats on the build!
Yep, low-temp stainless to copper is a mission at times, rough the surface, clean it, clean it, clean it - and have the right flux definitely!
I've very recently swapped over to silicon-bronze TIG brazing large stainless to copper after coming up against the limits of what my Mapp gas could handle but it's certainly good for 2inch work.
ua-cam.com/video/Ak9WiRoHPJo/v-deo.html
Happy Distilling Mel!
Beautiful workmanship.
Thanks!
Happy Distilling.
Just found your channel. Its really nice to see someone take the time to get good fits prior to soldering..
1 sub earned
Thanks Rainbow.
Yes, a lot of people overlook the significance of matching/curve fitting components in order to get a good reliable joint.
Happy Distilling!
Great job man! Inspiration to build my own still! 👍
Thanks Doc!
Would be keen to see what you come up with, cool thing about it is everyone has their own take on it and their own solution based around what they have access to.
Happy Distilling!
Very nice video! I appreciate the hard work you put into making it. Cheers!
Hey thanks there fella.
Love making this stuff - and making the hooch, ... it's an addiction. 😊
Happy Distilling!
You did the right thing with the water. Ideal one would have two different solders with each their melting points..but never mind the old plumbers trick with water works. That dephlegmator is enormous..! My first thought was it would be a product condenser. You can run a 2" still with far less than that...I'd say a 150-200 mm worth of dephlegmator. However, as you have build it modular, you'll always have the option of changing the parts around. Well done..!
G'day Kalle,
Yep I understand the dephleg' is large for a 2" column but I had in mind sticking it on something a little more substantial than a 50L still kettle at some stage so added a little extra volume. :o)
Had a few issues just recently with copper-stainless bonding with low temp silver solder and liquid flux when it has worked no problem before.
Actually picked up some very-high-temp silver brazing flux on the way into work just this morning so going to re-do the job with that and some pro-silver rods. :o)
Oh, I see. Well a 50 L kettle, would almost be like having a beer keg as a kettle. If you ever feel the urge for speeding things up, a 3" column would be fine on such boiler size.
A good rule of thumb is: Height=purity, Diameter of the column=takeoff speed. Indeed stainless can be a b*%#! to solder on. You have to be absolutely positive that you get the thin oxidated layer clean off before fluxing and soldering. I silver solder all my stainless with a solder that has 5% AG. The only downside was my plumber's torch didn't quite cut it. So I had to invest in one with a higher temperature or Oxy/Acetyl. I think you'll be fine with the silver rods and the high temp flux. Just remember to heat indirectly to get the thing up in temp. Stainless ain't a good heat conductor so it will draw a lot of heat before is ok. Good luck with your project..!
Hey fella - yep, borrowed a oxy/acetyl kit recently for a large 4" stainless jacket product condenser I was building for myself. With Mapp gas I just couldn't get enough heat into the heavy jacket and ferrules to get the solder to bond onto the stainless otherwise - kept getting pinholes, grrr.
I treat stainless to copper soldering same way I do aluminium welding in that the surface has to be buffed back and wiped cleaned with acetone until it's immaculately clean or it's not worth starting. :o)
@@AngryParrotDistillery Do you know if an acetylene torch would work? Or does it have to be acetylene and oxygen?
ckontny123 G'day fella, never used a straight acetylene torch - has always been oxy-acetylene.
Would depend entirely on the heat it can put out - needs to be in excess of mapp-gas, … closer to oxy-acetylene.
Awesome job. I hope we get to see it in action.
Sandwich the copper plate between two pieces of ply screwed together, glue the templates to the ply and then drill the holes you will always get round hole,s to size with no distortion and almost zero burrs.
I'm using that technique in the future for sure!
PS: When you are using hydrofluric acid, you can throw garden lime on it after it has done its thing to neutralise it. I always keep some handy when I am painting it on, if I get any on me (which to date I have not) then you can use it in the same manner. :)
Hey thats a very cool idea!
I never used to keep a base around to neutralize it - I just suited up, had some very sturdy gloves and was bloody careful, ... results using it were like magic tho' - always liked washing the stuff off and seeing mint S/S beneath it.
Been trying to find somewhere in NZ that was willing to sell small amounts - all seems to be bulkish now.
@@AngryParrotDistillery assay labs perhaps.
You would get more cooling surface area by using 7 lengths of 12.7mm pipe. Better water flow too and easier to get in and solder the joins.
Loved the video. great content Please keep it coming
G'day fella, Thanks!
I've been a bit slack in the last few months - have a bunch of videos I need to edit together and get up here heh.
Definitely more to come. :o)
Very good video . I love it👍👍👍👍
Thanks! Happy Distilling! :o)
Keep up the good work. Please more of that! :)
G'day!
Thanks, haven't done much in the way of videos for the last few months.
I do have number sitting in the computer I need to edit together but have been spending most of my time working on a commercial still for myself or doing jobs for other people.
Happy Distilling!
looks nice bro
Very nice work!
Thank you for the video. Very inspiring.
Hey you are welcome fella.
I should redo this vid with how I make them nowdays with a combination of TIG brazing and silver soldering.
Merry Christmas and Happy Distilling! 😊
Brilliant job mate.
Thanks fella!
Happy New Year!
muy bien hecho te felicito debe ser muy eficiente
Very helpful. Hello from wa.
could you preheat the stainless steel before putting it together
Awesome video.
Thanks Joel!
Happy Distilling! 😊
That would be a perfect job for a water jet cutter.
Yep! :o)
Made a few stills/condensers etc for people in the last year - 2", 4" and bigger, I get the baffles laser-cut now days - saves a hell of a lot on my labor as cutting the baffles out is very time consuming and if you are doing a large number it's a right pita.
Although, if you are doing a one off for yourself - as this initial one was, then the labor cost is not an issue. :o)
can you create a gmail or drop box link for the templates. so we can download it and lessen the mail burden please
Quality work!
Thanks fella!
Happy Distilling!
Good vid Mate
Thanks fella,
I need to pull finger and edit some more together. 😊
Happy Distlling.
Nice job mate
Thanks! :o)
Lovely job Man!
Thanks fella ... it's gone past addictive!
... I might need some kind of intervention soon. :)
Awesome video. It is exactly what I want to do. Could you send me the template for the 2" baffles. Would appreciate it.
Nice video's, consider a lathe!
Good design Good construction.
Thanks Thomas.
I tend to sit down and plan out things ahead of time, amass the components, check everything fits and works together before beginning fabrication.
No surprises that way. :o)
Great video. Quick question. What is the difference between a dephlegmator and a condenser as they appear to be the same construction?
G'day Mel,
Yes they both have similar construction and similar function.
"Dephlegmator" or "Reflux Condenser" is the much shorter of the two, sometimes they'll have a thermometer in the base of them, sometimes they'll have a thermometer or probe ports top and bottom (so you can see the temp' differential of the vapor path above/below the dephlegmator), sometimes they won't have any thermometer at all. :o)
Its job is to chill the vapor path enough that you end up with all, or at least the less volatile components of the vapor path falling back down the still column and creating a reflux in the packed column below.
As you initially ease back the cooling running through the dephlegmator you end up with the more volatile components coming across and thru the still head.
The Product Condenser is a lot larger and it's job is solely to condense the vapor path into cooled liquid product - hence they are larger/longer - more surface area.
Last thing you want is alcohol vapor coming out the end of your still - especially if you are running on gas/flame.
I try and use copper for all my condenser internals - even if I make them with stainless outer jackets nowdays - copper is 15x to 20x more efficient than stainless as a heat exchanger.
Hi. What if you were to use pratley steel in stead of silver solder? Will it do the job? Nice informative videos.
Not heard of "Pratley steel" ... it's not some sort of epoxy based filler/joiner like "knead-it" is it? - in which case you should steer well clear of it.
... yep, just did a quick interwebz search - it's an epoxy putty - definitely do NOT use that stuff on a still.
Basically if it's not recognised food-grade or food-safe application don't touch it.
I limit my work to;
TIG welding (stainless to stainless)
TIG welding (copper to copper)
TIG brazing silicon bronze (stainless to copper)
Lead/Cadmium free silver bearing solid wire solder (copper to copper - especially fine/thin stuff)
The silver soldering is the cheapest and fairly accessible on home workshop budget.
You really don't want to use anything else (apart from PTFE tapes/gaskets or corn-paste sealant if you wanna go old school) or you will contaminate your product and put your health at risk.
Theres alot to distilling in both building a still and the practice of running it - you can screw up and poison yourself in both instances.
Happy Distilling tho' Fujiar, make sure you read up before you jump in the deep end. :o)
Especially read around the topics of food-safe materials (as above) and removing foreshots (methanol/acetate/light distillates).
Great job!
Thanks Peter - Happy Distilling!
Thanks for the video. Would tin solder work too?
Hey sir I have a welding question for you... Does sugaring affect the integrity of a stainless steel welds and would it leach nasty products into your end product?
That's not silver solder, it's lead free soft solder. Nice work!
Benzomatic (tm) "Lead free silver bearing solid wire solder" ... heh-heh.
Thanks - glad you liked it.
Started doing this stuff about 2 years ago and its become massively addictive! :)
How did you run the water through while soldering the ferrules? Isn't the water running outside the tubes of the defleg?
Heya Peter,
Water runs inside the jacket, the ferrules are outside the enclosed space for the water so can be soldered seperately.
I've made a stack of these things subsequently and found that keeping a bit more distance between the baffle and the ferrule made enough of a difference that I didn't have to run water thru' the jacket.
Once I started TIG brazing the ferrules with silicon bronze I do them in reverse order - TIG S/B braze the ferrules with the baffles/tubes just sitting in place then after it's cooled down, soft-solder the baffles/tubes.
Happy Distilling.
Sorry for my naiveté, but the column is just a hollow tube with ferrules on either end that you pack with what you prefer correct? Thanks in advance!
Heya Peter.
Correct. 😊
I usually use copper mesh or stainless steel scrubbers - not that I do reflux runs that often. The sprung bow is enough to hold the packing in.
If I was going to use rashing rings or some kind of granular packing I'd probably look at permanently fixing some kind of baffle plate (like the condenser baffles) permanently into the bottom of the column.
Happy Distilling!
i just bought copper tri clamp ferrules. it should solder easier
That would make it A LOT easier.
Unfortunately they are not readily available in my country.
Downside is being soft copper they will wear a lot faster against the stainless tri-clamps.
Good luck.
Would be keen to know what you think of them after using them for a while.
Nowdays I silicon bronze TIG braze any copper-to-stainless joins.
Stronger and less hassle. 👍
@@AngryParrotDistillery
@@AngryParrotDistillery I will let know after i make a few runs with them. Thankyou for the response.
hello great design - i just don't understand why the tee at the top and not the 90 degree elbow
T is at the top to allow some flexibility.
Is possible to have it open and drop a cooling coil down the centre of it rather than using a dephlegmator.
Keeps the system flexible depending on what folks want.
But you are right, 90deg elbow also does the job and still I've subsiquently sold ended up with elbows instead of T's just to simplify things. 👍
Happy Distilling!
@@AngryParrotDistillery Thanks for the answer, and does the dephlegmator have to be removed for simple pot-still distillation? Can it stay there but not connected to the water supply? How much in NZ does such a column cost from pipe 54? Best regards from PL
@@AngryParrotDistillery Does the cooler have to be placed at an angle of e.g. 20-30 degrees to the column or can it be mounted vertically?
@@AngryParrotDistillery Sorry, I mean, does the reflux adapter have to be removed for simple distillation? and the next question, is it possible to use soldered connections instead of tri-clamp connections. The column will not be transported etc. Should the cooler be bent in relation to the column or can it be permanently vertical? greetings
@@robertweglik9238
G'day Robert, can be mounted verticle.
Would work better mounted on an angle as the vapor is not in freefall and instead "crashes" against the cold condenser tubes as it decends.
What gauge copper did you use for the baffles on the 2 inch condenser
How thick is the copper sheet? What’s the minimum thickness would you recommend?
I use around 2mm for the baffles, sometime 3mm if I have it.
You want it nice and solid - especially if you make your condenser quite long.
Happy Distilling!
Who is the musician in the soundtrack for this video
G'day Damon,
Band called Hayseed Dixie.
I think the track is called "Hungover Breakdown".
They're kind of bluegrass-rock cross over (Rock-grass).
Do their own music plus a lot of covers, Queen, Motorhead etc with a hillbilly treatment lol.
If you like that you should also check out a band called "Steve-n-Seagulls", they do some great Rockgrass "ACDC" covers.
Happy Distilling!
Hi, great video! where do we get hold of the copper tube sizes that you paste on the copper plate.
Heya Thapelo,
Sorry for the late reply.
The jacket is 2" (50mm) copper tube and the cooling tubes are 1/2" (15mm).
Problem is different countries work on different tube and pipe schedules, some go by outside diameter and some go by internal.
Where you wanting the pdf patterns of the baffle layouts? I'm planning on doing a mass mailout soon if you can give me an email address.
Happy Distilling!
nice looking set up, really enjoying watching your vids . On the stainless to copper joins which flux and solder are you using? The 50 mm copper tube I have is a very tight fit onto the ferrule, would annealing the end of the tube then forcing it over the ferrule work. I'm just getting the bits together to build a pot still modular system similar to this to upgrade latter to reflux. You can thank Still it for the questions as i found your channel after watching his. Cheers Simon
G'day Simon,
Stainless to copper I use a lead free, "50/50" silver bearing solder - food grade/plumbing grade, don't be tempted to use anything other than lead-free plumbing grade. :o)
Aside from the toxicity issue , I chose it because it has a lower working temp' (around 430 degC) than ProSilver type brazing solutions which means it doesn't anneal hardened copper water pipe and can be worked on easily with Mapp gas.
Flux is a La-Co, F-400 liquid flux (a generic all-purpose soldering flux). I was using Comweld 965 but it became harder to find here in NZ and cost much more.
Just remember to avoid getting a lung full of the vapor when you apply it to a hot copper surface - it will mess you up.
Yep, the 50mm s/s ferrules are a tight fit into copper pipe but I don't have much trouble by the time I've toothed the outside of the ferrule (belt sander) and the inside of the pipe at the join, fluxed them and then tap them home with a soft mallet. Make sure you wear googles just incase the flux sprays.
Yeah Jess' over at Still-It is a "GC" ! LOL
Happy distilling Simon.
LemmingHerda
Cheers great help
After doing stainless ferules i found out they do copper ones lol
Ah hehe ain't always the way, ...
Good thing with the stainless ones is they'll be MUCH harder wearing, I imagine after cranking down the tri-clamps over a few runs the copper ferrules may start marking up a bit, ... would certainly be A LOT easier to manufacture tho'!
Happy Distilling!
I very much enjoyed the vid, cheers!
Does the thermometer measure temp of the water in the jacket or should the thermometer be in the column below where the water jacket starts in order to measure the temp of the steam before it enters the defleg tubes?
Thanks!
G'day, glad you liked the vid.
The thermometers I have put into this still measure the vapour temp' above and below the reflux column/ dephlegmator.
I've heard of people measuring water jacket temp for automated cooling systems etc - I've not messed around with that yet.
Happy Distilling!
Hi . could you please give the ferrule size you used to fit this 2 inches pipe ?
G'day Fouad,
2inch tri-clover ferrules.
If the pipe schedule in your country is different you can get "expansion ferrules" which are slightly oversize.
Happy Distilling!
Hey, thanks for uploading such an informative video - I have a couple of questions if you're up for it:
- What is the name of the compass-like tool that allows you to scribe into metal? I'm only familiar with the type that hold pencils.
- Have you ever tried a reflux run without packing using only the dephlegmator? I've been thinking on this a lot and I want to try making a still that doesn't have any expendables. I feel like copper scrubbing pads getting used up is such a waste!
Thanks in advance and beautiful work - I never realized I could do that with a dremel!
I'd also love to know how you got that thermometer on without using a thermowell - I understand your description, but it would be great to see it apart if you have the time / inclination. Thanks again!
Edit: I just went and watched the first part of the cleaning run where you wrap the teflon tape around the thermometer's threads. Can you confirm that you're threading the thermometer directly into that brass fitting? My partner and I are putting together a miniature combo still like this one but we're currently using a tri clamp cap with an inbuilt thermowell. I'm considering getting a plain cap and drilling into it to copy your method if possible!
The compass is a compass hehe - engineers compass, has a scribe/point on both ends.
I don't run a lot in reflux - mainly got into this to makes heavy flavourful whiskies.
You need some kind of packing or bubble plates below your dephleg or you don't get any reflux at all.
You're welcome fella.
Happy Distilling! 😊
@@erich1394
Yeah the thermo is a 1/2inch bsp thread that screws into the socket - I use plumbers PTFE tape on the fitting to get an airtight seal.
the real question is . ... why your parrot is angry
You are welcome to ask her, ... just don't extend any digits you cannot afford to lose! 🤣
Looks great and nice description. What gauge of copper did you use for your sheet?
The baffles in the condensers?
Was around 1.6mm from memory.
Happy Distilling!
Cool
Hi mate great vid any chance i could get the plans and pdfs dor this build ive emailed you. Cheers Tyrone
That is soft solder, not silver solder!, silver solder needs the copper near to red hot before it melts. Nice fits though :o)
G'day Roger, Thanks.
It is indeed a soft solder AND a silver solder - technically it is; "lead-free silver bearing solid wire solder" (that's what you'd ask for over the counter).
Plumbers use it all the time.
I believe you are thinking of "silver brazing" where you do apply a lot more heat and use a brazing wire (something like a prosilver 34T/45T brazing rod/wire - has no cadmium or lead) and you'll need a specialized brazing flux instead of the general purpose acidic zinc-chloride liquid flux you use for soldering.
Some advantages to "soldering" over "brazing" is that you don't end up annealing (softening) the copper (if you are using hardened copper waterpipe for example) and it's a lot easier for "guys in sheds" to do with comparably low-cost low-heat mapp or propane gas setups.
Happy Distilling! :)
Cheers for the explanation on the flux you are using. Im using the paste that comes with the burnsomatic silver solder from mitre ten. That stuff pretty much turns to tar when it gets to temp and forget about soldering the ferrels in! The solder just balls up and falls off the side!! Ill have a look for some liquid stuff tomorrow. What brand flux do you use?
Ps; your still looks amazing!! Id be stoaked if mine turnd out to be half of what you have made!!
G'day Nick, Happy New Year!
I buy my lead-free silver-wire solder from Mitre 10 (not many other places carry it) but not much else.
I use a generic generic liquid flux - you can find similar at Global Welding or BOC in N.Z.
The one I used in the videos here is an "F-400" and it's "LA-CO" brand - I got it from Global Welding Supplies.
You want to make sure it is zinc-chloride flux and it will usually mention "suitable for stainless steel" somewhere on the pottle.
In the last 6-12 months I've started getting away from soft-soldering stainless to copper and tend to Silicon-Bronze TIG braze those kind of joins - especially if they are large and load-bearing like a 4inch column or some such.
That wasn't an option when I first started out doing this stuff and the soft solder works fine if you have some patience and persevere with it.
Happy Distilling!
Beautiful work. Very inspiring. What sort of power do you reckon it would take to run?
Thanks Tim,
I've run this on a 50L "keggle" (build for that is in another video I made), I've run it on 2500W and also on a 3000W element with a variable power controller ( It should easily work on a smaller 2kW element and I've done a quick water-test with one just to see how fast it would heat) - on my actual runs I was just using what I swiped from my larger still.
Benefit of a smaller element is that you can run it off a standard domestic 10amp wall socket.
When you with larger elements you start requiring special workshop style 15amp wall plugs and heavier wiring in the walls back to the fuse box.
Once you get the still up to temp' where you are beginning to take foreshots/product you are dialing the power right back anyways.
Happy Distilling!
where do you buy your sheet metal?
Currently planning to build a pot still out of a 50L Keg with a 5500w element (controlled so that I can dial it down) for Rum/Whiskey/Brandy (not vodka). If I go the shotgun way What would you recommend for the height of the column and the diameter? Also what length/diameter would you recommend for the shotgun?
G'day Maxime, I have a video up recently of a 50L stainless beer keg conversion I've done to fit this copper combo still.
General rule of thumb is height for purity, diameter for draw-off speed (ie; how much alcohol you can feed it - relies on the size/charge of your kettle to a greater extent).
I started with a 4" column on the first potstill I built (I have videos of it on my channel) but that was future proofing it as I knew I would be transfering the column/still-head to a larger kettle eventually.
2" diameter should be fine for a 50L kettle and it's pretty much what everyone doing a home-build defaults to (2" copper tube is also A LOT cheaper than 4") .
5500W is lots of power in a 50L - I'm running 6kW (2x 3kW) in a 180L charge kettle and it's none too slow.
You would want to make sure you have a low density (large surface area) element, or you could risk scorching your wash at full power - even more so with heavier/denser washes as you get with flavorful Rums and Whiskeys.
I went with a 2" diameter 1 metre long column (partly so I could pack it to use in reflux config') and about a 500-600mm long shotgun condenser for this rig. Works out ok on a 50L kettle.
Happy Distilling!
Angry Parrot Distillery thank you so much for such a detailed answer. My element is ULWD so I should not be scorching anything. I can also adjust the power output in % using my PID. How long does it take you to do a full run using a 50L keg and a 2" column?
G'day Maxime,
Varies - depending on wash, alcohol content, whether I'm doing a stripping run or a finishing run.
I do bring the 50L up to temp' slowly to avoid scorching the wash, either on the element with electricity or on the bottom of the kettle with gas - when I've been running the 50L on gas banjo it usually around 2.5 - 3 hours to come up to temp from memory and start outputting product.
Running a single pass on something like a rum with a thumper on my 50L, it's generally 5-6 hours from firing it up, to turning off - but like I say, it can vary, I've done stripping runs that have been a lot faster.
If I'm doing a finishing pass or a single pass with the thumper I'm not pushing it at all.
Distilling something flavorful like a fruit brandy or a single malt whisky I'm going to be especially gentle, but when stripping the guts out of a down and dirty sugar-wash maybe not so much. :o)
Best thing is not to be in a rush - you will taste the difference.
~Happy Distilling.
What do you think of a 100% stainless build plugged with copper mesh : column/shotgun ? would you recommend it or would you go with copper? and why? thanks
G'day Maxime,
I've done exactly that with my 4" build for my HWC kettle (about 180L) the same 4" build will transfer across onto my 600L kettle when that is finished (aiming towards a small craft distillery).
See my "4" s/s Lyne arm" video for some current (Feb 2018) images of that.
If anything I would eventually go with a 4" copper column (vapor path contact) to replace the S/S - but that's an expense that can wait (hundreds and hundreds of dollars just in 4" copper tube) and I got my 4" s/s tube for a dirt cheap price.
If I'm running reflux I'll have copper packing in the 4" stainless column, my 4" dephlegmator is copper and the internals for my 4" shotgun condenser will all be copper (with stainless jacket).
I love copper, but 4" copper is SO expensive and if it's not directly in contact with the vapor path its really a bit of a waste.
I would try and get SOME copper contact in the vapor path, I know people that swear black and blue it makes a difference and I believe them.
There is a vid on youtube of a HUGE brandy distillery with a inch and a half condenser outlet and you can SEE copper sulphate crystals forming/precipitating out of the distillate so there is method to the madness.
ua-cam.com/video/UjFkyWbmqfU/v-deo.html
Happy Distilling!
Hi I try to do same thing lake you but when recieved 2" fellure the size is different, my fellure going inside 2"tube tell me what tipe fellure you use and where to buy
G'day Lyubomir.
I'm using standard Triclamp ferrules, and standard schedule copper pipe I source off the shelf here in NZ.
The s/s ferrules are approx 51mm outside diameter and the copper pipe happens to be the same inside diameter so they telescope nicely.
If the copper tube/pipe schedule in your country is different (turns out in some countries it is possible it may be the same outside diameter as your triclamp ferrules) then you could look for a stainless steel " triclamp expansion ferrule" - those should fit over the outside of your copper tube in that case.
Please let me know if this helps you.
Happy Distilling!
Nice looking still, what is the height of the column? Thx
G'day, the column section in this was approx' one metre long.
Overall the kettle and column stand around 1.8 metres - a little under 6 feet tall.
Happy Distilling.
Thx, Happy Distilling!
Хороша работа, Супер!
Glad you like it my friend.
Nasdarovia - from New Zealand! :o)
Thank you so much! I greet you my friend, your country, and the land on which you live. Greetings from a distant Russia!
Hey Grant,
When doing a run do you use copper, rashings, marbles etc in the column.
If so are these used when running in both configurations I.e.pot and reflux.?
Cheers.
G'day Mel,
It's "Grant" :o)
I rarely run in reflux setup - most of the time I'm making rum or whisky and pot-still or pot-and-thumper config' is better for carrying those flavors over.
When I do run the hi-octane in reflux I pack the column with copper mesh (rashing rings are pretty expensive here).
At some stage I'll build some sight-glasses and bubble plates and have a play, theres a bit more of a grey-area/cross-over using those.
Happy Distilling!
Angry Parrot Distillery cheers Grant, many thanks for your reply.
I no longer have the need to buy commercial alcohol as my home distilled is better and cheaper haven't gone blind yet
Damn straight!
Like everything the govt does - it uses fear to coerce.
Happy Distilling!
how do you prevent the packing from falling in your column?
Heya Peter.
I usually just bend a piece of stainless welding rod into a spring "bow" shape that sits on the ferrule just inside the column.
Having it removable makes cleaning the column out a lot easier.
Happy Distilling!
I'm going to do something similar,tell me would not it be enough smaller cooler? spiral or other type?
Mash will be made of yeast and sugar.What is the height of this dephlegmator?
What is the performance of this equipment?
How many liters per hour?
G'day John,
Smaller condenser?
I have this still fitted to a 50L kettle and I wouldn't go any smaller on the condenser.
Spiral condenser - you mean a flake stand/worm like I made on my 50L pot still video?
I love the flakestand and worm condenser. It is VERY efficient and does not require a large water flow once it is full.
I have had my flakestand running with a much larger still/kettle and it managed to cool it no problem.
Yeast and sugar wash/mash - so you are making vodka spirit then?
You'll want some kind of reflux column then like this.
Dephlegmator is 300mm long - proportionally this is very long for a dephlegmator, I made it this way so I can have a huge amount of control over it and completely shut-down the vapour path into reflux if I want too.
Litres per hour/performance, ... that's not an easy question "how long is a piece of string" - so many variables; %abv of your wash, whether you are running it as a pot still or in reflux, whether you are on a stripping run or a spirit pass - whether you are running it fast and cruel or taking your time ...
If you put it on a 50L keg-kettle like I have I don't think you be disappointed lol.
Hello.
I'm going to make spirits 96%
I would like to have a quick alcohol reception
can I get it on your equipment?
Have you seen this video?
ua-cam.com/video/9zn19k4CZMM/v-deo.html
G'day John,
That looks like a Boka style still.
It's another form of reflux still - just like the still design here can also be used in reflux mode - they work differently but similar result. They can both extract very high abv alcohol %.
With all reflux stills - the faster you run them the lower the % alcohol that comes off.
Run them slower for the high %abv you are talking about.
***It is VERY important***
If you decide to build a Boka-type still, DO NOT make a "closed system" - that is very dangerous and is basically a pressurized bomb. The top of the column above the reflux condenser needs an opening to be able to vent out the pressure.
It is VERY important you understand that John - a lot of videos I've seen showing Boka stills being run/built don't make this obvious.
What would you advise me?
As I wrote earlier,I care about power and speed.
to do the equipment like yours?
tell me how much time is needed to take on 5l of alcohol 90-95% on your machine?
Nice build.....where did you get the paper templates for condenser or did you make it yourself?
G'day Derrick.
I laid them up myself in a cheapie CAD package called Draftsight.
If you want to flick me a PM with an email address I'm happy to email you a .PDF you can print yourself.
Hello Mr Angry Parrot! Really enjoy your videos and builds. So still have that PDF? I love to have a copy!
What is the silver % in the solder please?
G'day Michael,
Fairly low, probably around 5-10% in soft plumbing solder.
Technically, it's called a "silver bearing solid wire solder".
In brazing rods like prosilver 35T or 45T you can get much higher but they get very expensive and requires a lot more heat than propane or mapgas can provide at times - especially if you are working on larger pieces the act as more of a heatsink and wick-away the localized heat.
Happy Distilling!
should have just used a hole saw, they make 'em up to 5 inch
Yep you're right - could have done that for sure … 4" metal cutting holesaw is kinda pricey where I am and I don't make baffles that often. Have been waiting til I had some lasercutting work to do and outsourcing a batch to a metal laser-cutters.
I have smaller holesaws I could have used for the 2" but didn't want a hole thru' the centre of the 2" baffle.
With the smaller tube-holes I went small and then lightly filed them out to make press-fits.
Happy Distilling!
What kind of flux (im also in nz) do you use for the copper to stainless?
G'day fella, was using a generic liquid soldering flux, recently started using a hi-temp generic soldering flux (comes as a dark-grey paste in a small pot) have very recently been given over to silicon bronze brazing where appropriate.
Sounds like Australian accent?
Now that's a HORRIBLE thing to accuse a man of, slighting my ancestors with a genetic disposition toward criminal behaviour ... what have I ever done to you Sir?
(Kiwi 🤣 )
Happy Distilling !
Nice piece of work. However with this copper work you are soft soldering not silver soldering. And you certainly would not be welding. Soft solder to food grade uses a tin/silver solder (as opposed to a tin/lead mix) and is called soft soldering. Hard soldering uses something like silver or a bronze filler whereas welding uses the same metal (or very similar) to create the joint.
I used to teach metalwork in schools... I really like your work, the way you organise yourself and the skills you demonstrate with your available resources.
Thanks Martin.
Yep correct - silver-bearing solid wire solder. Food/Plumbing grade soft solder.
Think I've listed the exact materials and flux below a few times for folks.
I used it back in the day when I did these vids as it was about all I had access to at the time, Mappgas wasn't hot enough for silver brazing.
I nowdays make similar units for people and use few soldered joins - mainly copper to copper coz it penetrates even a mechanically tight join so well.
Copper to Stainless I now TIG silicon bronze (that can be quite a pain in the butt using soft silver-bearing solder and acid based flux), Stainless to stainless I just straight TIG weld.
If I had an oxy-acetylene rig I probably do a fair bit of work with silver brazing but the setup cost with bottle rentals and outlay is a bit crazy here.
Happy Distilling.
How much would you charge me to build me one to fit on a keg
G'day Edward, where are you based?
Give me an email on blkbird@blackbird.co.nz and we can discuss a tailored solution for you.
Hello,
Did you use the same solder+flux for ss ferrule to copper connection?
G'day, yes I did.
Soft, lead-free, silver-bearing plumbing solder, and a general purpose liquid soldering flux.
Copper to copper is infinitely more easy than stainless to copper which takes a lot more heat with the 4" ferrules but once you do it a number of times you click with it and it's not such a mission anymore.
You could silver-braze it but it takes a lot more heat (I use Mapp gas for soldering), will require a different flux and will generally anneal (soften) your nice hard copper water pipe.
Angry Parrot Distillery that is incredible! I had such a hard time getting 2" pipe to 2" ferrule... Used all sorts of methods and here you are doing it with exact same solder i have and i didnt think would work :-(
I have one more to do, will give your method a try
Your stuff looks very nicely made!
G'day fella,
Thanks very much!
Try applying the heat to the stainless steel ferrules first, it will dissipate out thru' the copper quickly enough.
Also abrade the stainless first - put a good tooth on it and use plenty of flux.
Happy distilling!
I watched you do it, looks great, but when trying to solder the ferrules to the ends , since more heat, is there likely chance of the extra heat making the 5 tubes becoming un-soldered??
G'day JB,
If you absolutely blast it - especially with something like a oxy-acetylene kit you could potentially de-solder the baffles, although you'd be more likely to loosen the join between the baffle and the jacket than the tubes within the baffles (there's a lot of heat dissipation in those tubes).
I'm quite gentle and strategic in how I apply the heat - think I mention that in one of my vids about planning out how you were putting things together..
If it was an issue for you there are copper-soldering ferrules available online - not as hard wearing as the S/S ones (and more expensive) but they would solder a lot more easily.
Pre-soldering the joints can help - so that you already have the separate join surfaces tinned with silver solder and then you are just heating them to the point that the silver solder melts together and seals - this is very helpful for some S/S-to-copper joins.
Other solution if that is an issue for you is you could run water through the jacket whilst soldering the ferrules (although it counters the heat you're putting into the copper) - I used to do this (and I think I may actually have done so in this vid) - but I haven't needed to for a long time now and it's not necessary if you are careful with your heat application.
Happy distilling!
Nice job mate how long is the dephlegmator if you don't mind me asking as i'm kinda copying your still.. :-)
G'day Peter,
Glad you like it! :o)
Overall length tri-clamp to tri-clamp is 370mm, internal jacketed cooling tube portion is 300mm long.
Happy to send you PDF's of the baffles if you like.
That would be fantastic as i have been searching for the cutouts but so far no success
How do i PM you i'm such a newbie
Got you msg - templates are sent.
Heads-up to while I was thinking about it, ... if I was building this dephlegmator again I would make it around 30mm longer at the bottom so it could stand upright on a surface without my thermometer dial stopping it from sitting flat. - Depends on what type of thermometer you are using.
Haha i'm on to that going to make it 400mm thankyou so much for your help i will keep you up to date on my progress
What power flies alcohol on this equipment?
G'day fella,
This 2" still is designed to work on a 50L kettle - maybe up to 80L.
At 50L you'd be looking at a 2kW element or a propane 3-4 ring gas burner as a good starting point power-wise.
If you wanted to do very quick stripping runs you'd need to go heavier power-wise.
There are some more videos I did of "The Keggle" to fit it.
I wanted to ask how strong alcohol flies?how many percent? 95%-96% ? or
Is the column filled with something inside?
G'day fella, sorry I didn't understand your question.
The still can be run in two modes depending on what you are wanting to distill, for flavorful things you'd run it as a "pot-still".
For neutral spirit/vodka you generally want to strip everything back to the raw spirit, you'd run it as a "reflux still";
That's the beauty of this combo-still design that by adding parts in or out like lego you can run different kinds of alcohol.
1) As a pot still for whisky/ rum/ brandy. (Run without the reflux condenser and without any column packing).
In Pot still mode I'd expect to start taking off product (after foreshots) at around 75-80% ABV.
2) As a reflux column for neutral spirit/vodka. (Run with the reflux condenser in place above the column and the 1 metre column partially packed with copper mesh (you could also just use stainless pot-scrubber they are a lot cheaper).
Once you have it running in full reflux mode you could expect to take off anywhere up to 95/96% ABV.
The product % ABV in either mode is also affected by the initial alcohol strength of your wash or wine.
What gauge did you use for the sheet?
G'day Ryan, ... the copper sheet for the baffles?
About 1.6mm - 2mm thick, ... basically whatever I come across cheaply. I'm an opportunist. ;o)
I go thicker if I'm silicon bronze brazing nowdays but you can get away with the thinner stuff when silver soldering.
Happy Distilling!
Hello sir, can you confirm what size tubes you used for the 2inch? 12mm or 15mm? Thanks. Pete
G'day Pete, for the 2-inch I used NZ schedule 15mm outside diameter copper tube (is actually more like 14.8mm OD - but its referred to as 15mm)
LemmingHerda mate struggling to figure it out. I have 12mm but cannot fit 5 piped in that baffle ring? How did you make the templates? I’m thinking it could be 10mm outside diameter?
G'day Peter,
Definitely 15mm OD tube into a 50mm diameter baffle.
I laid out the templates in a drafting package called "Draftsight" and then printed them onto A4 paper.
Can send you a PDF if you like?
LemmingHerda that would be awesome if you could share it, thank you very much! Been going crazy trying to lay it out. And then my multitool snapped! Shitty uk product. Much appreciated
LemmingHerda need my email? Peter.e.bennett@gmail.com
nice work. talk to u in a bit
Catchyah in a bit Nunti' :o)
Do you sell the shotgun condenser?
Yep, - I sell pretty much everything you see on my channel.
I think you've got my email - welcome to email me if there's something you're after.
Happy Distilling!
Angry Parrot Distillery how much is it for the 2 inch condenser?
Send me an email; grant@angryparrot.co.nz
You realize that a 2x4 TC adapter is pretty cheap
This video was shot quite a few years ago when such things we not so ubiqitous.
A 2" to 3/4" copper reducer in my country for instance, carries a fairly hefty pricetag still.
Happy Distilling.
@@AngryParrotDistillery 25$ n in every plumbing supply store. I guess people in America don't realize how easy they have it
@@boharris8179
Yeah the stuff you get off-the-shelf must be incredible.
Down here on the bottom of the planet its generally make do with what you've got or make it yourself.
Prices are a lot higher too as we don't have the population to allow large scale importation of most material, and our geo-loc is quite isolated.
Kiwis developed a thing called "no.8 wire" methodology, which is taking common things around you and turning it into something normally unobtainable here. (No.8 fencing wire is a common comodity that gets used in suprizing ways to solve problems down here lol).
@@AngryParrotDistillery Hey I'm all about repurposeing things. Round here it's called afro-engineering well actually it's got a much less p.c. name but I'm sure you get the picture. I just built a 50 inch (1270)mm high reflux column with one online order to brewershardware.com One to supplyhouse.com and a trip to home depot.
The 2in (51mm copper ferrule) will be in my mailbox any time today. The rest Monday. It's first section is 24inch (609.6mm)tall 51mm stainless spool off the keg to a 51mm sight glass then the head is 18in (457.2mm) tall of 51mm copper.
To bad I can't send you a picture it's a work of art. I can't express how invaluable my 15 yrs experience as a plumber are when doing projects like this. All the videos I watch of guys trying to braze or solder is maddening. I catch myself yelling into my phone😂. Don't put flux on anywhere you don't want solder to stick. Or Jesus man back off the heat. Even when brazing being able to read the metal temperature by it's appearance key to getting it right. Well I've rambled on enough. Stay safe and keep on the good fight👍Happy Easter in advance. If not for Christ we would have a rough go come judgement day.
do you have a link to the patterns for 2" inch pipe?
G'day Rob, no I don't have a website up and running - but will do very soon.
I'll email you out a PDF no problem. :)
thanks so much! I really enjoy watching your videos please keep making more.
Thanks Rob!
Will do.
Got a few part edited at the moment that need a few more clips to finish.
Doing one on my 4" "supa-dupa" condenser that I need to finish - but will put that up then. :o)
Let me know if there's anything in particular you'd like to see.
Please, send me PDF too my address nazarav777@ GMAIL com
Done! :)
Happy Distilling.
I would be using a true silver solder stick that soft solder is rubbish
G'day Robin,
You mean a silver brazing rod like a Prosilver 34T or 45T yeah?
I agree it would be nicer to use/stronger for stainless-to-copper, however when I started making these vids I was just using the basic stuff I had at home, - mapp gas, which isn't really hot enough to run silver brazing sticks (oxy-acetylene is much better).
The silver-bearing soft solder is fine for copper-to-copper especially for guys doing this at home on a budget like I was.
Nowdays I prefer Silicon-bronze TIG for any copper-to-stainless.
Happy Distilling!
What would you advise me?
As I wrote earlier,I care about power and speed.
to do the equipment like yours?
tell me how much time is needed to take on 5l of alcohol 90-95% on your machine?
Can you share those templates?
Sure, I don't have my website up and running yet to post them, but if you give me an email address I can email them to you no probs. :o)
Happy Distilling!
Angry Parrot Distillery thanks much appreciated.
My email is
gcameron460@gmail.com
Would you mind sending them my was as well?
Great video! Codyis1991@gmail.com
Done.
Happy Distilling!
Sent.
Happy Distilling!
Hi, I am copying your still as have many others. I would be grateful if you could send me a link to my e-mail address for the baffle plates to your combo still so that I can print them off. This would be much appreciated.
G'day Bernard,
No problem, if you would like to PM me your email address and I'll email the PDF file back to you.
evansbernard93@yahoo.co.uk
Sent :o)
one more please, couldn't figure out how to PM you so if at all possible I would appreciate the PDF templetes sent to dalekdreadnaught@gmail.com
Sent.
Happy Distilling.