Great video, thank you! I'm in the US but my model number is 1442 not the alpha numeric designation. One error I made is over tightening the nylon nut for the clutch plate. This caused the front reel to engage (in reverse) when moved to the Forward position [ as well as reverse or fast reverse as expected]. Auto feed and take up functions remain finicky and given the age of my films I'm going to have them transferred to digital before tinkering any further.
There are two nylon nuts, the other is on the take up reel side. The one that you removed is the one that provides the udustment. It can take a while to get it right.
Thank You Super8sooty for this Video it was a tremendous help. Through another video I watched I found the name of an E B er in the States that has the parts needed for these Projectors at very reasonable price. He goes by, isell projector belts, on E B and I purchased the Drive Cones package of 3 . He also has Belts and I believe other parts as well. For the people having problems with the Motor belt slipping here is what I did as after replacing the Drive Cones my projector worked perfect except for the slipping Motor belt. I took an Oring 5/16 ID and stretched it over the drive pully on the Motor and then put the belt back on and it works like a charm. Also on YT there are "a couple videos that shows how to "Hack" your old Bulb into making it into an LED Bulb. Watch both of them because one video is better than the other. I have not needed to do this yet but looks like an easy and cheap fix. I watched several 40 year old 8mm Movies yesterday and was reel fun seeing these again. I had to appriviate a couple of names as YT would not let me link a video, also the name of the seller on E B I have listed is all one word no spaces.
Parts available info here!! Looks like my original comment got taken down because I put a direct link into the comment or something - but please search e bay for Bell and Howell Lumina MX LX QX repair drive cones wheels UK EU 1443, 1462, 1481, that is the current description.
Tommyym9840 could you supply me with three coned rubber spacers for the clutch mechanism on a bell & Howell 1264 projector and if possibly lamp/lamp holder
Great tutorial now I’m looking for three clutch rubber replacements and lamp & lamp holder for a 1462 “ as your tutorial one rubber split in two the other two with flat service also require lamp and lamp holder Glen
Hi, the rubbers were 3D printed by a friend on here. I'll see if I can find his contact info. I think I have a spare lamp holder, I will have a loo, regard Rob.
This is such a nice projector. I'm guessing that this Bell 🛎 & Howell model is from circa 1970. TWO sets of fans, to the nice gearing ⚙, and wiring, it is a beauty, on the inside, and out. Seems 👀 like 👍 almost nobody comments on these UA-cam channels. Most recent one was 4 years ago. I really like all these projectors, regardless of the brand name, or 8mm, or 16mm. Some were sound, others were not 👎. I've come up ☝ by a few of these projectors, at yard sales, in my younger years, and bought them. I paid about $25.00 to $30.00 for each. One was a GAF carousel 🎠 slide projector, and one was an upright ☝ filmstrip 🎥 projector. I do not 👎 remember the brand name, and I cannot remember if it had a cassette player on it or not 👎. Another projector was an 8mm. No 👎 sound. Too many 👨 years to remember the brand name, but I think it was a Bell 🛎& Howell. It was constructed of cast aluminum. Sadly 😥, I wound up ☝ throwing the machine away when the fan belt broke. I had no 👎 knowledge on how to fix it, although these machines were quite plentiful then. It was 1984. This was still the age, that we could still buy the bulbs. Belts and parts were still probably available from the manufacturer 👨. These were such beautiful machines. They were next to TV 📺. Show those family 👪 8mm films 🎥. Nothing 👎 could be so timeless. I have a feeling that these projectors were built in Japan 🇯🇵, or the USA 🇺🇸. Your friend, Jeff.
HI, Do you have any information on how to replace the belt that goes from the motor pulley to drive shaft? I have the belt but I need direction on disassembly. Thanks
THANK YOU for a SUPER tutorial repairing the Drive Rotor Cap Rubbers for such B&H projectors. Too bad I cannot find them anywhere on the iNet... These are a miserable bunch of projectors, in that they age poorly, and become useless. Too bad.
Sorry for my late reply. Make sure you pull back the drive cone shaft fully back on the spring whilst with your right hand easing the clutch to the right. This should give you just enough clearance to get the peak of the drive cone holder out the way of the inner drive disc.
Great video! I have an MX33 with a slightly different problem I think. When i engage FWD the projector runs at normal speed at first and gradually slows down to a complete stop. Sometimes when engaging FWD it wont move until i give it a little push start, and then eventually slows to a stop again. Any ideas?
Hi, I do have an idea. It's to do with the white adjustment nut but there are 2 in total. You have to make sure the cone rubbers are in good condition first. I'll get back to you soon.
@@super8sooty Thank you. The cone rubbers appear to still be in decent condition. Where is the white adjustment nut located and how should i incrementally make the adjustment?
@@ShorinRyuGuy Hi, if you watch my video again I mention it at 7:40. This is the one you should try adjusting first. Do it and have a play with it whist your projector is running. Remember be careful of the electrics The other one is located on the front side behind the take up spool, you can just see it at 1:40. I advise not to adjust this one as it hasn't been removed. Hope this helps.
@@super8sooty So I've tried adjusting this to no avail. The projector runs for a short stretch and then slows to a stop just the same. I've also tried lightly oiling moving parts but this does not seem to help. I cannot seem to find what is causing it to slow down.
@@ShorinRyuGuy May be the old Drive Belt... stiff and starts slipping, slowing/stopping the feed. Tough call. I cannot see a way to change it out without gutting it out :(
Excellent tutorial, very much appreciated, and my first question just answered, re buying 3d nubs. Can I ask you a question please on another issue wuth the same device? I can forward photo which should explain....
@@super8sooty ok, here goes. When you drop down the facia on the front of the projector, and look at the film path, between the selector and power switches, there is a small curved metal plate ....except it's come adrift in my machine.. .Sri, I can't see how to attach photo... . Any ideas on what it is or how I can get it back in place? Thanks.
@@super8sooty Hi Robin couldn't find you on FB, however, heres link to Google Drive drive.google.com/file/d/1WJ57crOBYpBx7OQByCygksrK9ECYUR60/view?usp=drivesdk
HI, I'm need of the same parts that you replaced on your projector and I was wondering where to source the parts or if you know where I can get the STL file so that I can get them 3D printed? Thank you for your help.
Good morning Sooty. Do you happen to know where I can find a replacement bulb and do you know how to replace it? Also, I have heard that the bulb can upgraded to halogen. Do you have any insight? Thank you, in advance, for your help.
@@gheppell9790 hi, 1402 is a model I don't recognise. The American projectors are generally the MX or the QX models. However I think I may know the bulb you are talking about. It is the mother of all expensive bulbs. $74.99 on ebay
With the European moles the bulbs are less than £10 they 12v 80 or 100w. In the model I believe you have is 30v 80w and a compleat dinosaur. Its easier if you can send me pics. My name is Robin Haggett on Facebook. My pic looks a little bit like indiana jones, happy to help
@@super8sooty Indeed it is the 30v 80w bulb. Unfortunately, I am not on facebook. There does not seem to be an obvious way to remove/replace the bulb. Need I remove the entire 'cartridge' or is there some way to release just the bulb itself? The existing bulb is still working so I will go with it for the time being once I replace the cones. Thank you again for all your help.
Thank you. You done it professionally 👍🌹🌹🌹
Great video, thank you! I'm in the US but my model number is 1442 not the alpha numeric designation. One error I made is over tightening the nylon nut for the clutch plate. This caused the front reel to engage (in reverse) when moved to the Forward position [ as well as reverse or fast reverse as expected]. Auto feed and take up functions remain finicky and given the age of my films I'm going to have them transferred to digital before tinkering any further.
There are two nylon nuts, the other is on the take up reel side. The one that you removed is the one that provides the udustment. It can take a while to get it right.
Thank You Super8sooty for this Video it was a tremendous help.
Through another video I watched I found the name of an E B er in the States that has the parts needed for these Projectors at very reasonable price. He goes by, isell projector belts, on E B and I purchased the Drive Cones package of 3 . He also has Belts and I believe other parts as well.
For the people having problems with the Motor belt slipping here is what I did as after replacing the Drive Cones my projector worked perfect except for the slipping Motor belt. I took an Oring 5/16 ID and stretched it over the drive pully on the Motor and then put the belt back on and it works like a charm.
Also on YT there are "a couple videos that shows how to "Hack" your old Bulb into making it into an LED Bulb. Watch both of them because one video is better than the other. I have not needed to do this yet but looks like an easy and cheap fix.
I watched several 40 year old 8mm Movies yesterday and was reel fun seeing these again.
I had to appriviate a couple of names as YT would not let me link a video, also the name of the seller on E B I have listed is all one word no spaces.
Parts available info here!! Looks like my original comment got taken down because I put a direct link into the comment or something - but please search e bay for Bell and Howell Lumina MX LX QX repair drive cones wheels UK EU 1443, 1462, 1481, that is the current description.
Tommyym9840 could you supply me with three coned rubber spacers for the clutch mechanism on a bell & Howell 1264 projector and if possibly lamp/lamp holder
Great tutorial now I’m looking for three clutch rubber replacements and lamp & lamp holder for a 1462 “ as your tutorial one rubber split in two the other two with flat service also require lamp and lamp holder Glen
Hi, the rubbers were 3D printed by a friend on here. I'll see if I can find his contact info. I think I have a spare lamp holder, I will have a loo, regard Rob.
Thanks Rob
Hi Glen I have the lamp parts you require. It would be easier to talk via email...
robin.haggett@btinternet.com
Forgot to tell ya. BIG, beefy motor. I LOVE 💘 IT!! Your friend, Jeff.
This is such a nice projector. I'm guessing that this Bell 🛎 & Howell model is from circa 1970. TWO sets of fans, to the nice gearing ⚙, and wiring, it is a beauty, on the inside, and out. Seems 👀 like 👍 almost nobody comments on these UA-cam channels. Most recent one was 4 years ago. I really like all these projectors, regardless of the brand name, or 8mm, or 16mm. Some were sound, others were not 👎. I've come up ☝ by a few of these projectors, at yard sales, in my younger years, and bought them. I paid about $25.00 to $30.00 for each. One was a GAF carousel 🎠 slide projector, and one was an upright ☝ filmstrip 🎥 projector. I do not 👎 remember the brand name, and I cannot remember if it had a cassette player on it or not 👎. Another projector was an 8mm. No 👎 sound. Too many 👨 years to remember the brand name, but I think it was a Bell 🛎& Howell. It was constructed of cast aluminum. Sadly 😥, I wound up ☝ throwing the machine away when the fan belt broke. I had no 👎 knowledge on how to fix it, although these machines were quite plentiful then. It was 1984. This was still the age, that we could still buy the bulbs. Belts and parts were still probably available from the manufacturer 👨. These were such beautiful machines. They were next to TV 📺. Show those family 👪 8mm films 🎥. Nothing 👎 could be so timeless. I have a feeling that these projectors were built in Japan 🇯🇵, or the USA 🇺🇸. Your friend, Jeff.
HI, Do you have any information on how to replace the belt that goes from the motor pulley to drive shaft? I have the belt but I need direction on disassembly. Thanks
GREAT video! I'm having trouble finding the correct tool to remove the inner screws. Can you share the type and size of what you used? Thanks
Where can I get the little washers?
THANK YOU for a SUPER tutorial repairing the Drive Rotor Cap Rubbers for such B&H projectors. Too bad I cannot find them anywhere on the iNet... These are a miserable bunch of projectors, in that they age poorly, and become useless. Too bad.
im having trouble removing the clutch mechanism, any tips?
Sorry for my late reply. Make sure you pull back the drive cone shaft fully back on the spring whilst with your right hand easing the clutch to the right. This should give you just enough clearance to get the peak of the drive cone holder out the way of the inner drive disc.
Great video! I have an MX33 with a slightly different problem I think. When i engage FWD the projector runs at normal speed at first and gradually slows down to a complete stop. Sometimes when engaging FWD it wont move until i give it a little push start, and then eventually slows to a stop again. Any ideas?
Hi, I do have an idea. It's to do with the white adjustment nut but there are 2 in total. You have to make sure the cone rubbers are in good condition first. I'll get back to you soon.
@@super8sooty Thank you. The cone rubbers appear to still be in decent condition. Where is the white adjustment nut located and how should i incrementally make the adjustment?
@@ShorinRyuGuy Hi, if you watch my video again I mention it at 7:40. This is the one you should try adjusting first. Do it and have a play with it whist your projector is running. Remember be careful of the electrics The other one is located on the front side behind the take up spool, you can just see it at 1:40. I advise not to adjust this one as it hasn't been removed. Hope this helps.
@@super8sooty So I've tried adjusting this to no avail. The projector runs for a short stretch and then slows to a stop just the same. I've also tried lightly oiling moving parts but this does not seem to help. I cannot seem to find what is causing it to slow down.
@@ShorinRyuGuy May be the old Drive Belt... stiff and starts slipping, slowing/stopping the feed. Tough call. I cannot see a way to change it out without gutting it out :(
Excellent tutorial, very much appreciated, and my first question just answered, re buying 3d nubs. Can I ask you a question please on another issue wuth the same device? I can forward photo which should explain....
Hi, thank you. Ask away.
@@super8sooty ok, here goes. When you drop down the facia on the front of the projector, and look at the film path, between the selector and power switches, there is a small curved metal plate ....except it's come adrift in my machine.. .Sri, I can't see how to attach photo... . Any ideas on what it is or how I can get it back in place? Thanks.
@@daveharrison145 fb me in messager Robin Haggett
@@super8sooty Hi Robin couldn't find you on FB, however, heres link to Google Drive drive.google.com/file/d/1WJ57crOBYpBx7OQByCygksrK9ECYUR60/view?usp=drivesdk
HI, I'm need of the same parts that you replaced on your projector and I was wondering where to source the parts or if you know where I can get the STL file so that I can get them 3D printed?
Thank you for your help.
Read the comments. Tommy M did the 3D printing for me. He's a good chap, like me I just want to help others and not for profit. Hope this helps
Good morning Sooty. Do you happen to know where I can find a replacement bulb and do you know how to replace it? Also, I have heard that the bulb can upgraded to halogen. Do you have any insight? Thank you, in advance, for your help.
Yes bare with me. Are you from Europe or America?
@@super8sooty Canada, actually. The projector I managed to find is Design 1402. Regards
@@gheppell9790 hi, 1402 is a model I don't recognise. The American projectors are generally the MX or the QX models. However I think I may know the bulb you are talking about. It is the mother of all expensive bulbs. $74.99 on ebay
With the European moles the bulbs are less than £10 they 12v 80 or 100w. In the model I believe you have is 30v 80w and a compleat dinosaur. Its easier if you can send me pics. My name is Robin Haggett on Facebook. My pic looks a little bit like indiana jones, happy to help
@@super8sooty Indeed it is the 30v 80w bulb. Unfortunately, I am not on facebook. There does not seem to be an obvious way to remove/replace the bulb. Need I remove the entire 'cartridge' or is there some way to release just the bulb itself? The existing bulb is still working so I will go with it for the time being once I replace the cones. Thank you again for all your help.
Ohh, not to mention, that square drive belt is impossible to replace... I'll try a round one, before pushing the whole beast into the trash....
What happened, to your hand?
I hit a live wire! Lol, no serously I burnt it in work, it looks bad but your Bell & Howell will not get infected by viewing my video.