Nice work! Slowly following your steps, just finished extending my frame, about to move the rear axle back and get on the sub-frame. People don't realize how much of a project this is! By the way, I met your water filtration system guru last wknd in Bad Kissingen, we had a good chat and he says😂 hi!
Oha extending the frame alone is quite the project, extending the drive shaft, brake lines and so on. Yes the whole camper build is quite a commitment takes years if you do it all by yourself, but also saves a lot of funds. Thank you for the greetings I am sure Joachim gave you plenty of information about the filtersystems. Cheers
Im so glad the twist test went well bud. You have made a fantastic rig, well done Mario. Cant waite for you to come up to the Okanagan and test the full set up out.
For me filling the diffes , I use the screw on 1 liter tops, which are able to screw them down so nothing spills out, then open and squeeze the liter container. Works very well for me. Hope this helps.
Good to see your sub-frame is working as expected. I still have to make this test also...... although I always calculated and measured with 12 cm (4,,7") distance between frame and truck. Looking forward for the video of the wedding. By the way, I had a nice chat with Uwe (about you😀 as well) as I was with him last week. keep on going.
Good stuff ! Yes the lift resulted in 10 cm but I still have somewhat left in the springs I am guessing 12 cm is max and plenty. I am happy with the performance. So you talked with Uwe Albrecht the water tank fabricator, I hope only good topics lol . Cheers
Tell me if I'm wrong. I'm designing my subframe and i don't want it to work like yours. As yours, in this video is moving way too much close to the cab. Close to the cab there should be very little separation from the subframe to the truck frame. We both know how theses frames twist. The greater separation from subframe to truck frame should be at the rear of the frame rails, while close to the cab, the habitat should behave like the cab itself. Additionally there should be hardwood along the truck frame top, so when the subframe falls flat to the truck frame there is buffer and not metal to metal. I see most commercial upfit firms do this.
I am not sure that I understand all of your comments but to the tight connection subframe to chassis I choose the rear as connected end, you can make that also at the front of course. It's your choice. In regards of any material between the subframe rail and the chassis rail, it is actually forbidden to install something between the two. Mercedes Benz has regulations for that it called " Aufbaurichtlinie " These are doe's and don'ts for every attachment fabricators, they build on top of the base truck chassis ! Cheers
@@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Aufbaurichtlinie is a warranty issue. I see theses on American tucks all the time. Next time you are at a stoplight next to the garbage truck or landscape truck you will see the wood spacer. And Mercedes warranty is not an issue for 25 year old trucks. Okay, so you chose the rear and I chose the front for the connection point. I'm curious the advantages of each choice. So what is your opinion? The frame rails are engineered to twist, but not under the cab. The twist becomes greater as the frame meets the springs connected for the rear axle. And becomes even more so after the rear axle. The main reason for this subframe is not to transfer this twist to the habitat foundation. However the crawl through should not have such a drastic movement up to the 4 inches you show in this video. At the rear the twist movement does not affect anything close to the cab. Theses guys " rvglobetrekker " are building the subframes for customers and they talk about the crawl through issues. They also build crawl throughs.
Nice work! Slowly following your steps, just finished extending my frame, about to move the rear axle back and get on the sub-frame. People don't realize how much of a project this is! By the way, I met your water filtration system guru last wknd in Bad Kissingen, we had a good chat and he says😂 hi!
Oha extending the frame alone is quite the project, extending the drive shaft, brake lines and so on. Yes the whole camper build is quite a commitment takes years if you do it all by yourself, but also saves a lot of funds. Thank you for the greetings I am sure Joachim gave you plenty of information about the filtersystems. Cheers
@@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Yes, he was very knowledgeable! It would be nice to meet up later this summer, curious to see your build in person!
Im so glad the twist test went well bud. You have made a fantastic rig, well done Mario. Cant waite for you to come up to the Okanagan and test the full set up out.
Can't wait! Thanks !
Looking forward to the wedding!!
Me as well, just hope that I am not too fast and forget something before placing the box. Cheers
Great info thanks Oscar!!
Glad it was helpful! Have you twisted your frame already ?
For me filling the diffes , I use the screw on 1 liter tops, which are able to screw them down so nothing spills out, then open and squeeze the liter container. Works very well for me. Hope this helps.
Thank you.
Good to see your sub-frame is working as expected. I still have to make this test also...... although I always calculated and measured with 12 cm (4,,7") distance between frame and truck. Looking forward for the video of the wedding. By the way, I had a nice chat with Uwe (about you😀 as well) as I was with him last week. keep on going.
Good stuff ! Yes the lift resulted in 10 cm but I still have somewhat left in the springs I am guessing 12 cm is max and plenty. I am happy with the performance. So you talked with Uwe Albrecht the water tank fabricator, I hope only good topics lol . Cheers
Tell me if I'm wrong. I'm designing my subframe and i don't want it to work like yours. As yours, in this video is moving way too much close to the cab. Close to the cab there should be very little separation from the subframe to the truck frame. We both know how theses frames twist. The greater separation from subframe to truck frame should be at the rear of the frame rails, while close to the cab, the habitat should behave like the cab itself. Additionally there should be hardwood along the truck frame top, so when the subframe falls flat to the truck frame there is buffer and not metal to metal. I see most commercial upfit firms do this.
I am not sure that I understand all of your comments but to the tight connection subframe to chassis I choose the rear as connected end, you can make that also at the front of course. It's your choice. In regards of any material between the subframe rail and the chassis rail, it is actually forbidden to install something between the two. Mercedes Benz has regulations for that it called " Aufbaurichtlinie " These are doe's and don'ts for every attachment fabricators, they build on top of the base truck chassis ! Cheers
@@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Aufbaurichtlinie is a warranty issue. I see theses on American tucks all the time. Next time you are at a stoplight next to the garbage truck or landscape truck you will see the wood spacer. And Mercedes warranty is not an issue for 25 year old trucks. Okay, so you chose the rear and I chose the front for the connection point. I'm curious the advantages of each choice. So what is your opinion? The frame rails are engineered to twist, but not under the cab. The twist becomes greater as the frame meets the springs connected for the rear axle. And becomes even more so after the rear axle. The main reason for this subframe is not to transfer this twist to the habitat foundation. However the crawl through should not have such a drastic movement up to the 4 inches you show in this video. At the rear the twist movement does not affect anything close to the cab. Theses guys " rvglobetrekker " are building the subframes for customers and they talk about the crawl through issues. They also build crawl throughs.