You replied to my 08 yammy running rough under 1200 rpm and I removed the relief valve and it was stuck shut! I soaked with penetrating oil and gently blew through it. Ran it this last couple days 235 miles and no issues! So thank you so very much!
The 50 50 acetone and atf works the best. Just found that out in the last year or so. Its been tested against everything else online and i think the torque test channel on UA-cam and performed better than deep creep or any other penetrating oil. The acetone gets it to Penetrate better than anything else and then that ATF Will loosen things up. Game changer.
Hi Aaron, I was once told that outboards built before the mid 90s measured horsepower via how much it made coming from the crank (just the power head itself), and modern engines measure horsepower coming from the propeller. This being said, an early 90s 60hp would have a comparable amount horsepower to new 40hp, due to the loss of power coming from the power head, through the lower unit, and to the propeller (I’ve been told it’s about a 20% difference in power). Is this something you’ve been told before, or just more propaganda to try to get old two strokes off the water?? Thank you! Edit: Also thank you for the response to my question about the DTS system! Before this video came out, I had the dealer change out the command module, potentiometer in the handle, and the harness going between the two. The old harness ended up being spliced in 3 spots by the previous owner. My shift issue seems to be fixed though. In hindsight I’m guessing the problem was probably just the spliced harness with a sporadic connection, but I wanted to cover my bases by having the other items changed out as well.
Given the discussion about Seafoam, what are your thoughts about Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the fuel for use in Yamaha 4 strokes? I'm just thinking about it from a preventative perspective but would love your opinion.
That's just because she doesn't want to go home yet ;) honestly I couldn't tell you because that is some rough information to use for diagnostics. If the engine runs great and no issues on the way out, with no time frame here, but runs rough at idle or dies on the way back to the dock, couldn't tell you. Unless you mean it runs rough at idle after it is warmed up? Then it could be a fuel cooling issue.
I have a 1999 Yamaha 150 2 stroke and I’m having an over heating issue, I recently changed my impeller and brand new thermostat’s the engine has a strong piss stream. I even changed my head gaskets and water jackets and it still has the over heating alarm going off. I confirmed it was over heating with a laser thermostat. I saw your video about rydlime hopefully it does the trick, any other suggestions/advice ?
Low rpm overheat, popit valve/ pressure relief valve. Sometimes just changing the impeller isn't enough. Cup and wear plate can be scored/worn out as well.
@@orowock1 thanks imma look into that the engine was running perfectly fine the whole day and then towards the end of the day the alarm went off, I’ll give that a try
@@Art-jw8ho you are correct I took for granted that the entire kit was implied by my comment. very common in yamaha 2 strokers they upgraded the actual valve as opposed to the old one/ original one.
You replied to my 08 yammy running rough under 1200 rpm and I removed the relief valve and it was stuck shut! I soaked with penetrating oil and gently blew through it. Ran it this last couple days 235 miles and no issues! So thank you so very much!
Was that the relief valve on the fuel line?
@@TheBoatersPodcast yes it was on the fuel line from the low pressure pump
The 50 50 acetone and atf works the best. Just found that out in the last year or so. Its been tested against everything else online and i think the torque test channel on UA-cam and performed better than deep creep or any other penetrating oil. The acetone gets it to Penetrate better than anything else and then that ATF Will loosen things up. Game changer.
Twin rudder steering should be able to be done the way you said. The t valve or a liquid tie bar on catamarans should work
Hi Aaron, I was once told that outboards built before the mid 90s measured horsepower via how much it made coming from the crank (just the power head itself), and modern engines measure horsepower coming from the propeller. This being said, an early 90s 60hp would have a comparable amount horsepower to new 40hp, due to the loss of power coming from the power head, through the lower unit, and to the propeller (I’ve been told it’s about a 20% difference in power). Is this something you’ve been told before, or just more propaganda to try to get old two strokes off the water?? Thank you!
Edit: Also thank you for the response to my question about the DTS system! Before this video came out, I had the dealer change out the command module, potentiometer in the handle, and the harness going between the two. The old harness ended up being spliced in 3 spots by the previous owner. My shift issue seems to be fixed though. In hindsight I’m guessing the problem was probably just the spliced harness with a sporadic connection, but I wanted to cover my bases by having the other items changed out as well.
❤😊
I have to plug my deck drains. I just open my hatch, let it drain into the bilge and it gets pumped out
Given the discussion about Seafoam, what are your thoughts about Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the fuel for use in Yamaha 4 strokes? I'm just thinking about it from a preventative perspective but would love your opinion.
I have an 07 225 Yamaha and it runs rough at idle or dies but, only on the way back to the dock. Not going out.
That's just because she doesn't want to go home yet ;) honestly I couldn't tell you because that is some rough information to use for diagnostics. If the engine runs great and no issues on the way out, with no time frame here, but runs rough at idle or dies on the way back to the dock, couldn't tell you. Unless you mean it runs rough at idle after it is warmed up? Then it could be a fuel cooling issue.
I have a 1999 Yamaha 150 2 stroke and I’m having an over heating issue, I recently changed my impeller and brand new thermostat’s the engine has a strong piss stream. I even changed my head gaskets and water jackets and it still has the over heating alarm going off. I confirmed it was over heating with a laser thermostat. I saw your video about rydlime hopefully it does the trick, any other suggestions/advice ?
Low rpm overheat, popit valve/ pressure relief valve. Sometimes just changing the impeller isn't enough. Cup and wear plate can be scored/worn out as well.
@@orowock1 thanks imma look into that the engine was running perfectly fine the whole day and then towards the end of the day the alarm went off, I’ll give that a try
Poppet valve. Get the whole kit. Spring, valve, seal and gasket
@@Art-jw8ho you are correct I took for granted that the entire kit was implied by my comment. very common in yamaha 2 strokers they upgraded the actual valve as opposed to the old one/ original one.
For sure the popet valve like others have said