U one of the few that explain the most important and critical thing of this exposition unit...the 36V power supply. It's not common to use a 36V voltage, the market itself is not ready still, so it's a matter of where u located. I've spent 115 euros for a 36V 3.5A that makes the job properly, but I ve spent more than a couple of month searching for whole pieces I needed.
Hey, this is great. THANKS for posting it. I'm planning to make one, basically like yours, but projecting from below at flat horizontal glass. No need for reflectors to make sure that the radiation is spread evenly? It doesn't just shine straight ahead and expose only the center of the screen?
If you are building a fixed exposure unit then having it in a contained box with reflectors would be ideal. I wanted something portable that I could put away as I dont have a lot of space and so far Ive exposed up to 20x24inch screens with this no problem. The spread of LED's is actually wide and not focused like a beam. Thats why you will often see LED torches pairs with a lens because the throw is too wide.
You are rich so far as your considering newly available light sources, in this case the LEDs. Reduced exposure timings are much better considering all angles. It would nice if you could show us how the light projects.
Hi man, this is epic! Do you reckon this would be strong enough to exposure larger screens - like 1m x 1.2m? Do you reckon you could make a video of your device that holds the screens in place too?
Thanks, I'll put together a video shortly of the exposure unit. I actually build mine incorrectly because I was trying to save money but it should be helpful for other DIYers. I can expose 1m x 60cm screens with this setup, i would rather have a 300W led if I was doing something bigger than that but I havent tried. I think it would be possible with my 200W LED but your exposure times might be long because you would have to distance the LED further back so the angle of the light covers the enter area. But its certainly possible will just need to do some testing once you get your LED
pretty cool so i shouldnt get the ryonet exposure unit with multiple uv tube? is the single lights a sharper image? so your saying when the lights over lap it will burn sections of the screens brighter than others within the overlap ?
Thanks so much for this. I’m building it now. What’s confusing me is how to wire up my heat sink. It comes with a 4 pin socket and my 12v power supply just needs two. I can’t seem to find an adapter 4-2 wires. If you could spell out for a layman which wires/adapter to use/cut/ignore I’d really appreciate it.
sorry I cant help, im completely useless with electrical side of things, i think you just need the black and yellow as the other 2 are for control - forums.tomshardware.com/threads/wiring-a-4-pin-fan-direct-to-12v-dc.210568/
This is an amazing tutorial and your are incredibly generous to share it. I was watching along thinking okay, this is fine, I can figure this out, and then you pulled out the 3d printer for this bracket you designed off the cuff and I'm a little in awe now. Do you have a source you recommend for calculating the distance from the glass? I'm thinking about 3 feet between the 100Watt LED chip light and the glass, but that's based on a very loose calculation. Also, thanks for mentioning in the comments that you use a diazo emulsion because I was wondering about that. Did you consider starphyre/low iron glass or just regular glass? Thanks in advance.
Hi Deborah, this is a really poorly built exposure box but thankyou for thinking otherwise :) I need to redesign it at some point but it does the job really well. For distance I just stuck my biggest sheet of white paper on the glass and pulled the LED back until the UV was evenly cast across the paper. LED's have a really wide throw of around 120 degrees so you dont need it too far away from the glass. Mine is probably 60cm from glass and I just eyeball it each time I expose my screen. 3feet for 100W seems a litle too far and might increase your exposure times unnecessarily but it should work. Lastly, yes, I made sure to source low iron glass when building the exposure unit.
@@ThisDesignedThat I don't think good enough is poorly built, the box never needed to be fine furniture. You could have made it with dovetails and sanded and finished it, but that wouldn't improve your art. That is a huge help and tells me that I should probably start with the light/heatsink/power source thing. I'm a little nervous about soldering the wires but it's not rocket science so I should be able to figure it out. Thank you for the inspiration and tips.
Really depends on the angle of the LED but typically they throw the light very wode so yoo dont need too much distance. I can cover an A1 size area with my led with it about 60cm away.
@@rockinitis4615 These high power COB LED's get INCREDIBLY hot and will only work with a heatsink and fan. Definitely cant go without or you'll burn it out quickly
Hi! I have built an A0 size exposure unit with LED strips but it's being a nightmare when exposing halftones as it seems to undercut the image. I am thinking on rebuilding it with this chip but unfortunately the distance to the glass is already set up to about 40cm max. Do you think I would be ok using 2 light sources at 40cm to cover A0 sizes or will it burn? any thoughts will help x
Unfortunately LED strips really arent any good for halftones. It will be very difficult to control overlapping with 2 of these chips. Ideally you just want one light source. You are going to have to increase the distance from the glass to the light if using only one chip if you want to expose A0
Been having a look for you and it seems there is currently a shortage on UV COB LED chips over 100W. I have contacted my supplier on Aliexpress and asked them for you.
@@sylwiagustyn4524 just get some emulsion and do a quick test. If its to kill bacteria in your fishtank then it will probably be sub 300nm range which wouldnt work for screen printing
yep it will be able to expose that size, ive done up to 43 inch with no problem. Exposure times might be longer as you will have to move the light source further away from the screen to increase the area size of the light.
Hi, great video. Do you know if it's still possible to get these 200w led chips in the UK, I've had a look but I can't find anything. Which 12v transformer did you use? thanks
Doesnt appear the 200W chips are on amazon anymore, there is 100W here - amzn.to/2KFz9bC, best bet is to order from Aliexpress or eBay if you want 200W. I've seen this amzn.to/3i7I5Ff pop up on ebay and I'm really tempted to buy it as I'd love to have something i can mount easier. It looks perfect for an exposure source.
@@periscorr664 im not sure, theres little documentation for it. It looks like it doesnt have a transformer built into it, i think it takes DMX power or something, im trying to research how this works. I would guess what you get here is just the LED chip, heatsink and house and controls.
@@ThisDesignedThat hi, i bought the lamp off amazon. It works ok, not super fast, but it exposes the emulsion all the way through in around 2-3 mins. (49t mesh, coated once on both sides) 👍
@@periscorr664 do you mean the 200W spotlight? How did you get the thing to work as i believe it needs DMX signal right? 2-3 mins is a long exposure, was it a very large screen?
Hi Paul. Great video, thanks for the info, it's really helpful. I'm currently making an exposure unit, but am debating between using your LED UV bulb, Heat Sink & Power Supply Combo OR this 100W UV Black Light, NATPOW 395nm LED Ultraviolet Floodlight Outdoor IP66 that I found on amazon. Could this be a substitute so that I don't have to do so much soldering?! I'd appreciate your thoughts. I tried leaving a link to the product before, but I think youtube might have flagged it. Just copy, pasting the link should let you find it on amazon. Thanks, Tom.
Hi Thomas, prices for UV LED have reduced since I bought my chip and this looks like a great option and CHEAP! I'd like a 200W version if possible but 100W will work just fine. I'd definitely recommend a premade setup like this than having to faff around with a DIY version like mine.
Hi Tom, I saw your proposed floodlight alternative to Paul's setup. Did you go ahead with the floodlight, and if so how is it working? I see that 200W versions can be purchased, and I'm considering that.
@@Cosmizer Yeah, so I bought the 100W floodlight. It worked well and certainly fits my purposes. I create fine-art screenprint editions with multiple colour layers (up to 15), so fine-tuning the detail on the stencil is important. 200W certainly sounds like a better option for faster burn times, so I’d go for that. Whatever setup you have, single source light is king, I think. You don’t want crossing sources burning the screen at different rates.
@@thomaswhcompton6588 Thanks Tom, that's good news. I think I'll go ahead with a 200W floodlight and see how it goes before jumping into Paul's build from the video. One last question for you; how big are your stencils? Can your current 100W setup expose stencils for A2, or even A1 prints?
you do need to use a fan with these according to the manufacturer guidelines. I would highly recommend you follow them as it will burn out very quickly without heat sink and fan. they are rated for 30,000 hours use when cooled properly
The products you link in the description aren't even the stuff you use in this video so it feels pretty irrelevant when trying to figure out how to wire everything together from the point of view of someone who doesn't have any experience
All you need is a LED Chip, heatsink and a power supply, all are in the description. I used that brand of LED and they are good. What are you having trouble understanding, let me know i'll try to help
@@ThisDesignedThat The power supply is different than the one in the video so I couldn't simply wire the fan and the LED into the same unit as seen in the video. I was able to figure it out and come up with a different solution, but I had just ordered what you had listed in the description and assumed it would be the same as what is in the video.
He said in the video not to do it exactly like you see him do. Different countries have different power requirements and plugs and man it’s confusing sometimes. What ended up working for you?
U one of the few that explain the most important and critical thing of this exposition unit...the 36V power supply. It's not common to use a 36V voltage, the market itself is not ready still, so it's a matter of where u located. I've spent 115 euros for a 36V 3.5A that makes the job properly, but I ve spent more than a couple of month searching for whole pieces I needed.
Great. Thanks.
Hey love your work , think about put a lever on the top part of the ligth
Thanks Kal. What would the lever do?
Hey, this is great. THANKS for posting it. I'm planning to make one, basically like yours, but projecting from below at flat horizontal glass. No need for reflectors to make sure that the radiation is spread evenly? It doesn't just shine straight ahead and expose only the center of the screen?
If you are building a fixed exposure unit then having it in a contained box with reflectors would be ideal. I wanted something portable that I could put away as I dont have a lot of space and so far Ive exposed up to 20x24inch screens with this no problem. The spread of LED's is actually wide and not focused like a beam. Thats why you will often see LED torches pairs with a lens because the throw is too wide.
You are rich so far as your considering newly available light sources, in this case the LEDs. Reduced exposure timings are much better considering all angles. It would nice if you could show us how the light projects.
Hi Glenn. Will put together a video showing the Led projection for you
Does this exposure unit limit the type of emulsion one uses? Thanks for a great video!
No. It uses the same light you get in commercial grade units
Hi man, this is epic! Do you reckon this would be strong enough to exposure larger screens - like 1m x 1.2m? Do you reckon you could make a video of your device that holds the screens in place too?
Thanks, I'll put together a video shortly of the exposure unit. I actually build mine incorrectly because I was trying to save money but it should be helpful for other DIYers.
I can expose 1m x 60cm screens with this setup, i would rather have a 300W led if I was doing something bigger than that but I havent tried.
I think it would be possible with my 200W LED but your exposure times might be long because you would have to distance the LED further back so the angle of the light covers the enter area. But its certainly possible will just need to do some testing once you get your LED
pretty cool so i shouldnt get the ryonet exposure unit with multiple uv tube?
is the single lights a sharper image? so your saying when the lights over lap it will burn sections of the screens brighter than others within the overlap ?
Hi Michael. Yes that's correct
Thanks so much for this. I’m building it now. What’s confusing me is how to wire up my heat sink. It comes with a 4 pin socket and my 12v power supply just needs two. I can’t seem to find an adapter 4-2 wires. If you could spell out for a layman which wires/adapter to use/cut/ignore I’d really appreciate it.
sorry I cant help, im completely useless with electrical side of things, i think you just need the black and yellow as the other 2 are for control - forums.tomshardware.com/threads/wiring-a-4-pin-fan-direct-to-12v-dc.210568/
This might help others:-
ua-cam.com/video/TqJ45QkMZQY/v-deo.html
This is an amazing tutorial and your are incredibly generous to share it. I was watching along thinking okay, this is fine, I can figure this out, and then you pulled out the 3d printer for this bracket you designed off the cuff and I'm a little in awe now. Do you have a source you recommend for calculating the distance from the glass? I'm thinking about 3 feet between the 100Watt LED chip light and the glass, but that's based on a very loose calculation. Also, thanks for mentioning in the comments that you use a diazo emulsion because I was wondering about that. Did you consider starphyre/low iron glass or just regular glass? Thanks in advance.
Hi Deborah, this is a really poorly built exposure box but thankyou for thinking otherwise :) I need to redesign it at some point but it does the job really well. For distance I just stuck my biggest sheet of white paper on the glass and pulled the LED back until the UV was evenly cast across the paper. LED's have a really wide throw of around 120 degrees so you dont need it too far away from the glass. Mine is probably 60cm from glass and I just eyeball it each time I expose my screen. 3feet for 100W seems a litle too far and might increase your exposure times unnecessarily but it should work. Lastly, yes, I made sure to source low iron glass when building the exposure unit.
@@ThisDesignedThat I don't think good enough is poorly built, the box never needed to be fine furniture. You could have made it with dovetails and sanded and finished it, but that wouldn't improve your art. That is a huge help and tells me that I should probably start with the light/heatsink/power source thing. I'm a little nervous about soldering the wires but it's not rocket science so I should be able to figure it out. Thank you for the inspiration and tips.
This is awesome!! I want to build a flat box for my 20"x24" frames, how far should be the lamp from the frame be placed?
Really depends on the angle of the LED but typically they throw the light very wode so yoo dont need too much distance. I can cover an A1 size area with my led with it about 60cm away.
@@ThisDesignedThat Thanks! we really need a fan to expose the frame 30-60 secs? or we can go without
@@rockinitis4615 These high power COB LED's get INCREDIBLY hot and will only work with a heatsink and fan. Definitely cant go without or you'll burn it out quickly
Hi! I have built an A0 size exposure unit with LED strips but it's being a nightmare when exposing halftones as it seems to undercut the image. I am thinking on rebuilding it with this chip but unfortunately the distance to the glass is already set up to about 40cm max. Do you think I would be ok using 2 light sources at 40cm to cover A0 sizes or will it burn? any thoughts will help x
Unfortunately LED strips really arent any good for halftones. It will be very difficult to control overlapping with 2 of these chips. Ideally you just want one light source. You are going to have to increase the distance from the glass to the light if using only one chip if you want to expose A0
Thanks for posting. Where did you get the 200w LED? Thank you!
Aliexpress, the listing that I got it from is no longer on the site but if you have a search you'll find plenty of LEDs
Ok thank you
@@Tim.McElheny if you go on amazon chanzon sells high power uv leds
How long does take a 10x14 screen with a 50w uv light,and what h
Sorry not sure as i habe 200W
i like your video except i would like to know where to get that 200w chip , your link only shows the 100w
thank you
Been having a look for you and it seems there is currently a shortage on UV COB LED chips over 100W. I have contacted my supplier on Aliexpress and asked them for you.
@@ThisDesignedThat wow, thank you very much !
I have Current USA LED lights on my fishtanks, they are great for growing plants - do you think these would double as exposure lights?
Depends on the spectrum of uv they emit
I'm trying to figure that out. They don't specify on the box - just the lumens and the wattage. Thanks.
@@sylwiagustyn4524 just get some emulsion and do a quick test. If its to kill bacteria in your fishtank then it will probably be sub 300nm range which wouldnt work for screen printing
hey!
How big can be the screen you expose with this unit? I'm looking to espose 36x48inches screens.
yep it will be able to expose that size, ive done up to 43 inch with no problem. Exposure times might be longer as you will have to move the light source further away from the screen to increase the area size of the light.
@@ThisDesignedThat Thanks, I'll try to find higher wattage maybe it'll help
Hi, great video. Do you know if it's still possible to get these 200w led chips in the UK, I've had a look but I can't find anything. Which 12v transformer did you use? thanks
Doesnt appear the 200W chips are on amazon anymore, there is 100W here - amzn.to/2KFz9bC, best bet is to order from Aliexpress or eBay if you want 200W. I've seen this amzn.to/3i7I5Ff pop up on ebay and I'm really tempted to buy it as I'd love to have something i can mount easier. It looks perfect for an exposure source.
@@ThisDesignedThat I was just looking at that one....would you not need a heatsink with that one?
@@periscorr664 im not sure, theres little documentation for it. It looks like it doesnt have a transformer built into it, i think it takes DMX power or something, im trying to research how this works. I would guess what you get here is just the LED chip, heatsink and house and controls.
@@ThisDesignedThat hi, i bought the lamp off amazon. It works ok, not super fast, but it exposes the emulsion all the way through in around 2-3 mins. (49t mesh, coated once on both sides) 👍
@@periscorr664 do you mean the 200W spotlight? How did you get the thing to work as i believe it needs DMX signal right?
2-3 mins is a long exposure, was it a very large screen?
Hi Paul. Great video, thanks for the info, it's really helpful. I'm currently making an exposure unit, but am debating between using your LED UV bulb, Heat Sink & Power Supply Combo OR this 100W UV Black Light, NATPOW 395nm LED Ultraviolet Floodlight Outdoor IP66 that I found on amazon. Could this be a substitute so that I don't have to do so much soldering?! I'd appreciate your thoughts.
I tried leaving a link to the product before, but I think youtube might have flagged it. Just copy, pasting the link should let you find it on amazon. Thanks, Tom.
Hi Thomas, prices for UV LED have reduced since I bought my chip and this looks like a great option and CHEAP! I'd like a 200W version if possible but 100W will work just fine. I'd definitely recommend a premade setup like this than having to faff around with a DIY version like mine.
Thanks Thomas....I had all the parts in a amazon shopping list and the led chip and drivers became unavailable. The setup you posted looks good.
Hi Tom, I saw your proposed floodlight alternative to Paul's setup. Did you go ahead with the floodlight, and if so how is it working? I see that 200W versions can be purchased, and I'm considering that.
@@Cosmizer Yeah, so I bought the 100W floodlight. It worked well and certainly fits my purposes. I create fine-art screenprint editions with multiple colour layers (up to 15), so fine-tuning the detail on the stencil is important. 200W certainly sounds like a better option for faster burn times, so I’d go for that. Whatever setup you have, single source light is king, I think. You don’t want crossing sources burning the screen at different rates.
@@thomaswhcompton6588 Thanks Tom, that's good news. I think I'll go ahead with a 200W floodlight and see how it goes before jumping into Paul's build from the video. One last question for you; how big are your stencils? Can your current 100W setup expose stencils for A2, or even A1 prints?
Why don't you use a lens on the led?
Extra cost and complication and it doesnt seem needed
...You can just buy an LED blacklight floodlight that plugs right into mains power you know...
I looked everywhere but could find a 200W version, I know you can get 50W versions but for larger screens that I expose its not powerful enough
using a cob for a few seconds or even hours dont really need a fan. It'll burn out in time anyways.
you do need to use a fan with these according to the manufacturer guidelines. I would highly recommend you follow them as it will burn out very quickly without heat sink and fan. they are rated for 30,000 hours use when cooled properly
The products you link in the description aren't even the stuff you use in this video so it feels pretty irrelevant when trying to figure out how to wire everything together from the point of view of someone who doesn't have any experience
All you need is a LED Chip, heatsink and a power supply, all are in the description. I used that brand of LED and they are good. What are you having trouble understanding, let me know i'll try to help
@@ThisDesignedThat The power supply is different than the one in the video so I couldn't simply wire the fan and the LED into the same unit as seen in the video. I was able to figure it out and come up with a different solution, but I had just ordered what you had listed in the description and assumed it would be the same as what is in the video.
He said in the video not to do it exactly like you see him do. Different countries have different power requirements and plugs and man it’s confusing sometimes. What ended up working for you?