My Ender 3 S1 Pro has been a nightmare. I thoroughly went through all of the assembly checks, and then started bed levelling. I preheated the bed, as suggested. Using paper, I refined the bed position manually by going around four or five times. Then I pressed 'auto bed level'. The head went to the centre and lowered, and then I got a message on my screen that said "probing error". It paused for a moment, and then drove the nozzle straight down into my printing bed and dragged the nozzle across to the side while trying to go even lower. I scrambled to turn off the machine manually, but not before it had scored a line straight across the printing plate, and the whole machine was shuddering. I have no idea if there is further damage. Do I just have a POS? Because there is no way that this machine should try to destroy itself like this.
OK Dan, I am happy following that process, both the aux and auto. One thing I noticed the aux run then the auto run sets the centre #1 position slacker. Now I received a usb with nothing on it, not an issue as they say you can download the latest information from the site. I cannot find a flow chart for the control pad, and i am not to happy downloading the software update as so many are bricking the control pad can you do a vid on the software download and install for the elderly. Cheers my friend. WJL.
Lol, 3D printing videos for the elderly. That's a niche I haven't thought of. The included manual and info is actually on the SD card that came with the printer. For the Z Offset changing. Once you set it at position one, is the Z Offset value in the upper right of the main screen a different value than what you set after the auto level?
Hello, When I start the leveling as in your video at 2:31 I do not have that screen with all them numbers but a view in % of how mutch is done in de proces. How comes and what can I change to have the same view on my screen?
Hi Dan! Thanks for this very informative video. I own a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, too. I heard some users insist on adding the lines M420 S1 or G29 to the g-code via the slicer program (Cura in my case) to enable the bed leveling state. I was wondering what your comment is on that. Many thanks.
Hi Dan, thanks for the good content. On the s1 pro, in your instructional notes you say to SAVE the settings after auto bed levelling. How do you save the "auto calibrated settings" there is no save option after auto level completes. DO i need to do auto level before every print on this machine?
See the video at 3:11 ua-cam.com/video/U7cTvLpXL6U/v-deo.html&si=31PDV22mxz3j-PiT there is a "Save" button. If you don't have one you might be on a different firmware version.
Can someone please help me? My printer is working fine for about 2 months since I bought it. And randomly when I do these same steps to level the printer. I can't move to the certain point no matter what I press on the screen. It just stays in the center and his way to far away from the bed. Not sure what to do I need help
Can you press Ready at the bottom of the screen and then move the print head using the arrows? If not then your control cable might be loose or damaged. Try unplugging it and then plugging it back in. It is the wide flat cable that plugs into the top of your print head.
Ive done all the steps, I've also loosened and tightened the yaxis screws to see if it would help, but no matter what I do, after leveling as shown in the video my auto leveling shows the left side of my bed is .2, center is .00 and right side is around .05.. I have had it printing great previously but recently all of my prints fail regardless of what I do.. Any ideas?
I think those variances are ok. Once you have auto leveled the bed it is all about having a clean bed (I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol before each print) and the proper Z-Offset, if it isn't sticking lower the Z-Offset. Be careful not to go too low and scrape the bed.
For some strange reason whenever i try to level the corners of my printer, the middle goes slightly down and messes everything up. My Auto bed leveling also looks different than yours. (im guessing i have an oudated firmware but idk about the leveling part)
my printer is the same one you showed. for some reason my print keeps having failed prints every time. ive done every thing I can but it just keeps doing it do you you have any thoughts on what needs to be done.
You can edit the values directly after the about level finishes and it will save them. As for you failed prints. Clean your bed with rubbing alcohol right before the print and make sure you z height is set right. I find most of my failures are during to too high of a z offset. Watch as the brim is printed and if it is not sticking well touch the upper portion of the screen and then Z-Offset. You can adjust it closer or farther away while it's printing. Be careful not to dig it into your bed though.
After the latest firmware update I have an issue with the ABL. I perform the steps exactly as you do however after setting the bed mesh and running the ABL the Z offset will change dramatically. In my instance I set the Z offset to -4.90 when doing the manual bed mesh. After running the ABL the printer pushes my extruder into my print bed and I need to adjust the Z offset to a higher position and in my case -3.85. I have reset the printer multiples times, reflashed the firmware, and still have the same result. Any ideas on how to fix it?
@@PeighDayRC It is weird that it would change your offset value during ABL. Did you update the firmware in the touchscreen when you updated the mainboard firmware? What version of each are you on?
@peighday I had what I think is the same issue. Upgrading to the latest firmware is a mistake I regret, especially because in the new version steppers get locked up with almost any setting interaction as well as just preheating the printer. Anyway, there is more to leveling the bed than just AUX and ABL. In my case I first went to get rid of a nasty bed warp. This is something a printer should compensate from ABL mesh, but still I suggest you use thin strips of baking paper under the metal sheet where and if you have large warps (in my case 0.4mm along the Y axis). So for the actual leveling, there is a more detailed guide (google for "Comprehensive Guide to Leveling the S1 / Pro"). It goes to first set your springs and the bed to the upmost position (I didn't go this loose, I tightened the springs a bit more), after that move to AUX level and do the z-axis and positions one by one, and then ABL. What I have noticed is that after ABL, the nozzle gets lowered into the print bed, and after I go back to the AUX mode I figured the 1st position was ok, but the other positions got a little bit loose. I didn't touch anything after that because I had my ABL saved. One very important part is that you also have to set your slicer to give the instruction to the printer to use the ABL mesh it created. This is added to the start g-code. I will not go into more detail since the tutorial I mentioned is quite extensive and offers far more professional explanation that I gave. Best of luck! @dandesigns3d I appreciate the effort, thanks for the tutorial.
Hello Dan, I'm going to start in 3D. Which of these two printers would you recommend, the ender3 S1Pro or the Sovol SV06plus? Thank you and I really enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Best wishes and thank you👍
Actually if I was going to get another entry level printer I would probably get a Ender 3 V3 SE. It's faster and has most of the same features as the S1 Pro. I don't know much about the Sovol printers. amzn.to/3uzv4P1 This my affiliate link to the SE. I would immediately upgrade to a PEI build plate though. I love my PEI plate.
You can but the plug is a little more special. amzn.to/47HQhoC You could cut the headphone looking end off and strip the wires. One would be ground one would be focus and one shutter. I believe when the shutter wire is connected to the ground it will trigger a picture. No resistors needed.
I’m having a problem where no matter how many times I do it there is a section near the middle that won’t ever get close enough to the bed, all corners are pretty much perfect and that spot is bad
Had mine now for 6 months, worst printer I've ever had, it's always high front and back super low in the center, no matter what I do, it worked fine for 2 months I printed so much then randomly it stopped, I haven't been able to print anything for months
@@dandesigns3d that's too loose... Today I will try maximum tension on the springs, after z axis is set, and loosen each corner clockwise until it's touching the paper.✌️
Clear and concise video. I appreciate that. Liking and commenting for the algorithm. Godspeed brother.
Thanks! Helped a lot!
Glad to hear it.
As someone beginning 3D Printing this is great 😎👍
Glad it helped!
My Ender 3 S1 Pro has been a nightmare. I thoroughly went through all of the assembly checks, and then started bed levelling. I preheated the bed, as suggested. Using paper, I refined the bed position manually by going around four or five times. Then I pressed 'auto bed level'. The head went to the centre and lowered, and then I got a message on my screen that said "probing error". It paused for a moment, and then drove the nozzle straight down into my printing bed and dragged the nozzle across to the side while trying to go even lower. I scrambled to turn off the machine manually, but not before it had scored a line straight across the printing plate, and the whole machine was shuddering. I have no idea if there is further damage.
Do I just have a POS? Because there is no way that this machine should try to destroy itself like this.
best youtuber out here
Wow! Thanks!
OK Dan, I am happy following that process, both the aux and auto. One thing I noticed the aux run then the auto run sets the centre #1 position slacker. Now I received a usb with nothing on it, not an issue as they say you can download the latest information from the site. I cannot find a flow chart for the control pad, and i am not to happy downloading the software update as so many are bricking the control pad can you do a vid on the software download and install for the elderly. Cheers my friend. WJL.
Lol, 3D printing videos for the elderly. That's a niche I haven't thought of. The included manual and info is actually on the SD card that came with the printer. For the Z Offset changing. Once you set it at position one, is the Z Offset value in the upper right of the main screen a different value than what you set after the auto level?
I finally made a video on updating the firmware on the Ender 3 S1 Pro. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/GEZkwkDDf1g/v-deo.html
Any advice as mine isn't writing the mesh the grid numbers just stay white at 0.01
What version of firmware are you on?
@@dandesigns3d it was my bad i took the board firmware out the folder so didn't update the main board
maybe this will help others in the future
I see, yes thanks for the update.
Hello, When I start the leveling as in your video at 2:31 I do not have that screen with all them numbers but a view in % of how mutch is done in de proces. How comes and what can I change to have the same view on my screen?
This is a feature in the last couple of firmware upgrades. To get it you will need to upgrade the firmware on your printer.
@@dandesigns3dThank you. Any video on how to do that? Please?
I made a video on updating the firmware on the Ender 3 S1 Pro. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/GEZkwkDDf1g/v-deo.html
cam you make a tutorial how to upgrade the software , to the latest.. cause i try and cant figure it out
\
I have been thinking of doing that tutorial. I might do that. Stay tuned. I'll look into it.
@@dandesigns3d thanks cause i try without any result... and i downgrade it again !
I made a video on updating the firmware on the Ender 3 S1 Pro. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/GEZkwkDDf1g/v-deo.html
Hi Dan! Thanks for this very informative video. I own a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, too. I heard some users insist on adding the lines M420 S1 or G29 to the g-code via the slicer program (Cura in my case) to enable the bed leveling state. I was wondering what your comment is on that. Many thanks.
Hi Dan, thanks for the good content. On the s1 pro, in your instructional notes you say to SAVE the settings after auto bed levelling. How do you save the "auto calibrated settings" there is no save option after auto level completes. DO i need to do auto level before every print on this machine?
See the video at 3:11 ua-cam.com/video/U7cTvLpXL6U/v-deo.html&si=31PDV22mxz3j-PiT there is a "Save" button. If you don't have one you might be on a different firmware version.
Can someone please help me? My printer is working fine for about 2 months since I bought it. And randomly when I do these same steps to level the printer. I can't move to the certain point no matter what I press on the screen. It just stays in the center and his way to far away from the bed. Not sure what to do I need help
Can you press Ready at the bottom of the screen and then move the print head using the arrows? If not then your control cable might be loose or damaged. Try unplugging it and then plugging it back in. It is the wide flat cable that plugs into the top of your print head.
Did you figure it out? Was it the cable?
Ive done all the steps, I've also loosened and tightened the yaxis screws to see if it would help, but no matter what I do, after leveling as shown in the video my auto leveling shows the left side of my bed is .2, center is .00 and right side is around .05.. I have had it printing great previously but recently all of my prints fail regardless of what I do.. Any ideas?
I think those variances are ok. Once you have auto leveled the bed it is all about having a clean bed (I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol before each print) and the proper Z-Offset, if it isn't sticking lower the Z-Offset. Be careful not to go too low and scrape the bed.
For some strange reason whenever i try to level the corners of my printer, the middle goes slightly down and messes everything up. My Auto bed leveling also looks different than yours. (im guessing i have an oudated firmware but idk about the leveling part)
Yeah, when I level my corners my middle goes up a bit. That is what the auto level is for. It will measure that and adjust for it during the print.
@@dandesigns3d so it adjusts it mid print?
No, you run manual level first and then auto level. The auto level maps the differences.
how would I edit the leveling with the screen and will it stay how I edit it
my printer is the same one you showed. for some reason my print keeps having failed prints every time. ive done every thing I can but it just keeps doing it do you you have any thoughts on what needs to be done.
You can edit the values directly after the about level finishes and it will save them. As for you failed prints. Clean your bed with rubbing alcohol right before the print and make sure you z height is set right. I find most of my failures are during to too high of a z offset. Watch as the brim is printed and if it is not sticking well touch the upper portion of the screen and then Z-Offset. You can adjust it closer or farther away while it's printing. Be careful not to dig it into your bed though.
i have a ender 3 s1. after latest fw there no option for manuel leveling
Is it a S1 Pro?
@@dandesigns3d nope standart s1
What I have is a Pro version and has a different UI so I can't help you with a specific S1 question. Sorry
Thanks, great vid
What does edit do on the values of the leveling??
It allows you to tweak the results. Not sure when that would come in handy though. 🤔
After the latest firmware update I have an issue with the ABL. I perform the steps exactly as you do however after setting the bed mesh and running the ABL the Z offset will change dramatically. In my instance I set the Z offset to -4.90 when doing the manual bed mesh. After running the ABL the printer pushes my extruder into my print bed and I need to adjust the Z offset to a higher position and in my case -3.85. I have reset the printer multiples times, reflashed the firmware, and still have the same result. Any ideas on how to fix it?
Is this happening when you start a print or directly after it finishes the ABL?
@@dandesigns3d directly after ABL
@@PeighDayRC It is weird that it would change your offset value during ABL. Did you update the firmware in the touchscreen when you updated the mainboard firmware? What version of each are you on?
@peighday I had what I think is the same issue. Upgrading to the latest firmware is a mistake I regret, especially because in the new version steppers get locked up with almost any setting interaction as well as just preheating the printer. Anyway, there is more to leveling the bed than just AUX and ABL.
In my case I first went to get rid of a nasty bed warp. This is something a printer should compensate from ABL mesh, but still I suggest you use thin strips of baking paper under the metal sheet where and if you have large warps (in my case 0.4mm along the Y axis).
So for the actual leveling, there is a more detailed guide (google for "Comprehensive Guide to Leveling the S1 / Pro"). It goes to first set your springs and the bed to the upmost position (I didn't go this loose, I tightened the springs a bit more), after that move to AUX level and do the z-axis and positions one by one, and then ABL.
What I have noticed is that after ABL, the nozzle gets lowered into the print bed, and after I go back to the AUX mode I figured the 1st position was ok, but the other positions got a little bit loose. I didn't touch anything after that because I had my ABL saved.
One very important part is that you also have to set your slicer to give the instruction to the printer to use the ABL mesh it created. This is added to the start g-code. I will not go into more detail since the tutorial I mentioned is quite extensive and offers far more professional explanation that I gave.
Best of luck!
@dandesigns3d I appreciate the effort, thanks for the tutorial.
@@sasaandjelic1596 I’ve done all of that. Still the issue remains. Junk upgrade.
How do I download the latest firmware to my printer?
m.crealitycloud.com/software-firmware . I believe you have to have an account.
I made a video on updating the firmware on the Ender 3 S1 Pro. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/GEZkwkDDf1g/v-deo.html
Thank you Dan 😊
Welcome!
Hello Dan, I'm going to start in 3D. Which of these two printers would you recommend, the ender3 S1Pro or the Sovol SV06plus? Thank you and I really enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Best wishes and thank you👍
Actually if I was going to get another entry level printer I would probably get a Ender 3 V3 SE. It's faster and has most of the same features as the S1 Pro. I don't know much about the Sovol printers. amzn.to/3uzv4P1 This my affiliate link to the SE. I would immediately upgrade to a PEI build plate though. I love my PEI plate.
@@dandesigns3d The video that has the camera connected to a Switch for time-lapse can I do the same with a Nikon D3200
You can but the plug is a little more special. amzn.to/47HQhoC You could cut the headphone looking end off and strip the wires. One would be ground one would be focus and one shutter. I believe when the shutter wire is connected to the ground it will trigger a picture. No resistors needed.
just get a Bambu A1
What firmware are you using in this video?
Hey Scott! I'm on 2.0.8.28F4. I had to log into creality cloud to find it. Thanks for watching!
I made a video on updating the firmware on the Ender 3 S1 Pro. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/GEZkwkDDf1g/v-deo.html
I’m having a problem where no matter how many times I do it there is a section near the middle that won’t ever get close enough to the bed, all corners are pretty much perfect and that spot is bad
i updated but once i get to auto leveling the values do not update i watched the video you posted around 3 weeks ago
Are the values in the matrix showing low? Try to select preheat PLA before you do the auto level.
Had mine now for 6 months, worst printer I've ever had, it's always high front and back super low in the center, no matter what I do, it worked fine for 2 months I printed so much then randomly it stopped, I haven't been able to print anything for months
nice video...however, none of these guides avail, say how tight should the manual knobs be, before commencing this paper/leveling process...
There is no specific tightness. A good place to start is with the studs barely sticking out of the bottom of the adjustment wheels.
@@dandesigns3d that's too loose... Today I will try maximum tension on the springs, after z axis is set, and loosen each corner clockwise until it's touching the paper.✌️