Thanks for the solid review. I have had this jointer for over a year and it has served me very well and have never been disappointed with its performance. It’s been money well spent especially for a small shop like mine.
I have the Cutech 10-inch version. Cutech makes an iron fence as an aftermarket accessory that is sturdy. I also made MDF inserts that fit between the rails and allow you to joint bowed boards better.
Hey, I've got the same push blocks and upgraded to the Bench Dog ones. I was going to pitch them, but saw a guy screw a plywood scrap to the end, to give it that "push-foot". Thanks for the real world review!
Thanks for the review. Lots of good information to consider before buying. I have the 6-in Craftsman and that's just a little pup. I'd like to upgrade someday and this will help me make my decision.
I would suggest buying two of those push blocks you showed up in the corner, works well and safe. If you mount this in like a miter saw bench with in and out feed the safety factor would rise. I own a 6 inch powermatic jointer spiral cutter been 10 years and still have not rotated cutters. Would like at least a jointer 8 inch. 8,10,12 buy up if you can you will have no regrets. Like I have. But it is still a great machine just undersize being 6 inch.
I jost ordered the cutech 10" with the cast iron fence option. I mostly plan to use it for cabinets/doors, but I do plan on trying to be crazy and push some 8+ ft boards through to make some interior doors. I cant afford nor have the space for a bigger one so it will have to do for the 8ft long stiles.
Nice video, Damien. I have the Cutech predecessor to this one for a few years (8" variant, 10" was not on the market at the time). It's been doing a great job for me, and fits my needs for small crafts. My fence is decent, but not great, as well. My bed is teflon-coated aluminum. It's held up much better than I expected. Lots of wax helps, too. And I've had many dust clogs along the way. It will suck up whatever I run in the 3-5" range, but as soon as I get to 6+", I need to take shallower passes for the dust collection to be effective. Still a decent jointer for the price, and I'd go down the same path again, if needed.
It came out of the box aligned and ready to go. I didn't have to adjust it hardly at all, though I'm sure as the blades dull and things misalign I'll have to adjust.
Helical has a helical shape, like a helix, so a spiral layout. They are the better quality and more expensive of the two. Google helical head and spiral head, and look at the photos and you can see the difference pretty easily.
I understand that spiral heads have the cutting edge perpendicular to the wood, which ends up with a chopping motion, just like normal, full-length blades. Helical heads are aligned at an angle and use a slicing motion. So, helical is preferred, but spiral does a great job, too.
Looks like you do have a sawdust problem around your! 😂😂😂 From what I've learned about jointers (they are my next big purchase) is is that you shouldn't be pressing down on the wood piece too hard & to my eyes it looked like you were. You just have to do more passes. I'm torn between getting an 8" & a 10" (like what you have). Decisions, decisions, decisions! Ha ha ha! But a great review. I appreciate your time making this. 😊😊😊
Yup, my next big shop upgrade is improved dust collection, just deciding on which one is best for me. And you're right, I do press down. Didn't realize it was that noticeable, but that's something I've been working on. There's a reason I mentioned that I'm still learning that! 😂😂
@@SothpawDesignsI had a shop vac cyclone like yours and upgrading to a harbor freight high flow was a game changer for higher volume chips. High suction of shop vac works better for my sander and miter saw, party due to thinner and lighter hose.
when you were jointing the face, it looked like (and sounded like) you were taking off too much for what the motor can handle. how much were you taking off?
@@SothpawDesigns Yeah, you'll get much better results if you do small increment passes. It might barely shave a hair on the first bunch of passes depending on how bad the board is off so naturally it'll take longer, but you'll get cleaner cuts and not overburden the motor.
If your boards are cupped or twisted and you run it through a thickness planer, you end up with a thinner board that is cupped or twisted. The feed rollers squish the board down and flatten it out, but it just springs back into shape. You have to face joint it to flatten out the bottom, and then the thickness planer can make the two faces parallel.
Thanks for the solid review. I have had this jointer for over a year and it has served me very well and have never been disappointed with its performance. It’s been money well spent especially for a small shop like mine.
I have the Cutech 10-inch version. Cutech makes an iron fence as an aftermarket accessory that is sturdy. I also made MDF inserts that fit between the rails and allow you to joint bowed boards better.
Great idea. Thanks
Hey, I've got the same push blocks and upgraded to the Bench Dog ones. I was going to pitch them, but saw a guy screw a plywood scrap to the end, to give it that "push-foot". Thanks for the real world review!
This is the video I was talking about.
Great video, dude. I love that jointer!! 😃👍👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the review. Lots of good information to consider before buying. I have the 6-in Craftsman and that's just a little pup. I'd like to upgrade someday and this will help me make my decision.
Santa just got me one for Christmas, can’t wait to open and use it.
I love mine..... now, I just need to figure out how to use a jointer properly....
I would suggest buying two of those push blocks you showed up in the corner, works well and safe. If you mount this in like a miter saw bench with in and out feed the safety factor would rise. I own a 6 inch powermatic jointer spiral cutter been 10 years and still have not rotated cutters. Would like at least a jointer 8 inch. 8,10,12 buy up if you can you will have no regrets. Like I have. But it is still a great machine just undersize being 6 inch.
I jost ordered the cutech 10" with the cast iron fence option. I mostly plan to use it for cabinets/doors, but I do plan on trying to be crazy and push some 8+ ft boards through to make some interior doors. I cant afford nor have the space for a bigger one so it will have to do for the 8ft long stiles.
Nice video, Damien. I have the Cutech predecessor to this one for a few years (8" variant, 10" was not on the market at the time). It's been doing a great job for me, and fits my needs for small crafts. My fence is decent, but not great, as well. My bed is teflon-coated aluminum. It's held up much better than I expected. Lots of wax helps, too. And I've had many dust clogs along the way. It will suck up whatever I run in the 3-5" range, but as soon as I get to 6+", I need to take shallower passes for the dust collection to be effective. Still a decent jointer for the price, and I'd go down the same path again, if needed.
Sounds similar to my results. Thank you!!
Great Video, Thanks
Great review Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Hey brother looks good.. Did u ever check the tolerance of the table.. Im needing a jointer its taking to long to use and set up the cnc.... 🤣🤣
It came out of the box aligned and ready to go. I didn't have to adjust it hardly at all, though I'm sure as the blades dull and things misalign I'll have to adjust.
What's the difference between sipral and helical?
Helical has a helical shape, like a helix, so a spiral layout. They are the better quality and more expensive of the two. Google helical head and spiral head, and look at the photos and you can see the difference pretty easily.
I understand that spiral heads have the cutting edge perpendicular to the wood, which ends up with a chopping motion, just like normal, full-length blades. Helical heads are aligned at an angle and use a slicing motion. So, helical is preferred, but spiral does a great job, too.
Looks like you do have a sawdust problem around your! 😂😂😂
From what I've learned about jointers (they are my next big purchase) is is that you shouldn't be pressing down on the wood piece too hard & to my eyes it looked like you were. You just have to do more passes.
I'm torn between getting an 8" & a 10" (like what you have). Decisions, decisions, decisions! Ha ha ha!
But a great review. I appreciate your time making this. 😊😊😊
Yup, my next big shop upgrade is improved dust collection, just deciding on which one is best for me.
And you're right, I do press down. Didn't realize it was that noticeable, but that's something I've been working on. There's a reason I mentioned that I'm still learning that! 😂😂
@@SothpawDesignsI had a shop vac cyclone like yours and upgrading to a harbor freight high flow was a game changer for higher volume chips. High suction of shop vac works better for my sander and miter saw, party due to thinner and lighter hose.
I think you may be taking a larger chip than spec id back of your blade a bit
I think you're right. A jointer take a lot of practice I'm figuring out.
I wonder if there are any fence upgrades you can find for it… having a reliable fence is a big deal
Woody says that there are aftermarket iron fences that are made by Cutech.
when you were jointing the face, it looked like (and sounded like) you were taking off too much for what the motor can handle. how much were you taking off?
I think you're right. I've ruined a few boards by taking too deep of passes and pushing on the back.
@@SothpawDesigns Yeah, you'll get much better results if you do small increment passes. It might barely shave a hair on the first bunch of passes depending on how bad the board is off so naturally it'll take longer, but you'll get cleaner cuts and not overburden the motor.
Good evening
Why would you face joint if you have a planer? It looked like you had a lot of snipe on the board you used.
You need to face joint one side in order to get a flat board.
If your boards are cupped or twisted and you run it through a thickness planer, you end up with a thinner board that is cupped or twisted. The feed rollers squish the board down and flatten it out, but it just springs back into shape.
You have to face joint it to flatten out the bottom, and then the thickness planer can make the two faces parallel.
Did you have to reload this one?
I did. Had a couple of errors that I wanted to correct
I have the 12" model. Works great for me. But. Yours sounds like it's taking way to deep a cut on the face cut.
I think you're right. I've ruined a few boards by taking too deep of passes and pushing on the back.
@@SothpawDesigns another thing that helped mine. I took them supports off. They're a pain and useless.