I have a wood stove in my shop no lifting other then from truck to shop floor. I used to build wood stoves in 1980. Glad it went up well and all is safe enjoy.💚
That should make it nice and warm up there, might be an idea to see if you have any concrete board about to put behind and under it to help with the protection. Grate video Jim.
Dear Jim, Your little heavy lifting session reminds me of when I had to do mine except I was fortunate everything was on ground level ( no staircase). The double wall stainless steel chimney flue was quite a shock when I had to purchase it ( £100 per metre sections plus collars, through the roof cone, etc, etc...). I think the 5KW stove by itself was approximately £400 & with the added pipework the cost jumped to £1200 in total ( less installation charges which were an astronomical £1000 if done officially; I managed by sheer stroke of luck to get a fully qualified installer willing to do it for £400 cash in hand if you see what I mean!!!). But it did a great job warming up the place to a very comfortable 20+ degrees very easily ( went up to 34 degrees a couple of times too). Now remember I only used it essentially during winter seasons so upon dismantling the installation when ordered to do so I was expecting to see the pipes to be quite dirty. Putting my hand in the blackened pipe, I could not get anything . They were very clean surprisingly. The prospect of homely comfort using this stove will warm up the cockles of your heart. I am sure you'll all feel a great deal more pleased to enter a warmed up place ( Mary Rose & the children no less). Once the stove is going, I am sure productivity will go through the roof (no pun intended). very well done my old fruit. Kind regards.
I'm with you on hand tools sometimes being the best way to go! With power tools, work can go very fast, sure; but things can also go very bad, very fast, too! Everything goes faster with power tools - including accidents!
What is that chain hoist called? Absolutely agreed about doing it by hand so you can feel when it gets caught somewhere, etc. And you brought that stove upstairs exactly as I would have. I live alone, and work alone, and sometimes do some pretty big/heavy stuff.
Good use of two of the five basic machines. Inclined plane and the lever. I don't know if the ratchet was part of the five basic machines but it was a good addition! I lifted a 600 lb. iron balcony up the outside of a house and then bolted it (thru-bolts) to the second story using the same setup with the chain hoist attached to the top rung of a 36' ladder. Just don't get under it!
nice job, moving stuff like that sucks with two people but what what the heck super dude , Yes getting up on the ladder will suck but i think you take your time you be fine , hope the stove pipe will proceed in a very easy form . Take care Jim see ya next time
hey jim that was a piece of cake.Have you thought about a concrete pad to put the stove on with a nib around it to keep the coals and ash on would save you a lot of work
@@TheTradesmanChannel I might be a bit old fashioned but I think the old hearth has proved itself over the years to be the best but will watch with intrest how you do it
Love those Coffing hoists. I have a 500 lb, 1500 lb and a 1 1/2ton. Right around 16:00 you kinda touched on a point I was going to make Jim, and that is that the burn characteristics you are familiar with on that burner for 29 years will probably be somewhat different with the new chimney configuration: flu type/height/fittings. In other words, for those with a lesser level of wood firing experience, going from a square or rectangle masonry to a 2100 degree SS triple wall will effect it as well as an added 90 or 45. A large factor is the change in height. The change could be negligible to varying levels of extreme but easily overcome as you well know. Hey man, I liked your rigging. In our trade many times the situation calls for a bit of uhhhhh... shall we say creativity in the rigging department, don't you agree. Another great video sir.
Yessir, BTDT. Same here Jim. Are you familiar with the larger capacity RTU's like Trane, that run dual S/A fans or even a large hp single ? I'd change those failed motors by myself as well. Sandwich the top compartment with a pair of double struts with all thread then use a strut trolly and the small 500# Coffing to lift and roll out and back in with the new. Same thing with the Trane 100 ton screws on their larger air cooled chillers. McQuays, Yorks and others too. Tip of the old iceberg...you know. I'm glad retirement is allowing time to rest...kinda. lol.
TheTradesmanChannel yessir I knew you were a service tech back in one of your first videos when the company truck was in he background. Though I loved my career choice and worked over 40 years in it the only thing I really miss is my last service truck. Chevy 8.1 litre with Allison automatic and ten foot service bed. That was my portable tool box. I always preferred those over a van. Gets warmer quicker. Cools quicker and all the rattling is in a separate compartment !!! Have a nice day sir. I’ll be quiet now. Lol.
Jim, be an OLD HVAC guy myself I say you should have put radiant heating loops in the floor of the portion your wife gets. You gotta admit there ain't a better heating mode! Great job of the timber frame and the explanations you give while you're working on something. Keep up the great job and videos!
Just a couple comments. With a true catalytic stove like my 11 yr old Woodstock Soapstone stove, when you shut down the draft AND have proper temperatures in the reburn area, the wood will gasify in the main area, the the gases will still burn at high temperature in the catalytic reburn area. This is very efficient. My stove will maintain main outside wall temps of 400-500 F for more than 8 hours when loaded and set properly. It is a completely different world from a non-catalytic process, which I experienced for years prior to this stove. We burn 2-5 cords per year here in VA and the catalyst screen in my stove is still effective after 11 years of use. Also, one advantage of using a straight vertical pipe run rather than through the wall is that you can brush your entire chimney out from the inside where it is safe and warm. Thanks for your efforts in producing and posting your videos!
You have been lucky with catalytic reburn in that stove, it must be made very well. Most of the ones I've seen end up burning out within a few years. I like the stoves with the reburn in the top, the tubes that bring oxygen into the top after the fire is well established. They work the same way.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Woodstock is a great company. This stove allows you to bypass the catalyst for regular burns and to get the fire established. If you can't bypass, the catalyst will burn out quickly because the early burn contaminates the catalyst. But I probably burn 1/2 the wood under catalytic burn than I do with it bypassed, but we burn it both ways at different times. Also, the Woodstock Soapstone stoves will set you back a little dough too.
@@boooshes I just checked them out and yeah... a basic catalyst stove is like 2500+!!! I'm gonna have to look into them. I have the same stove at Tradesman and I love it. But if I could get a stove thats even better...
I took a 600lb Delta Unisaw down my bilco stairs on a hand truck..... by myself! Lol I did it but it had every indication that General Stupid might strike again!
First question I had was, why not u through the trap door. You answered that. 2nd one was its a wood shop, are you not going to build anything larger than the wood stove to where you would not want the trap door large enough to get your builds out? Yes i know you have the large door out of the top and yes i know swinging this in from outside, by your self would have been even more dangerous as well as even more of a pain. Long story, not so short, i got the why's figured out. Nice discription once again Jimmy!
I fell off of the 2nd floor in May of 2018 and shattered my right ankle. A couple of surgeries and a lot of hardware in my leg. Leg is much better than when this video was made but I can tell you when the weather will change.
I'm you used the chain fall. My dumbass would have strapped it to a hand cart and pulled the damn thing up and drop the boys along the way.😬😵 That should definitely keep you warm up there. Enjoy your evening. See you on the next one buddy.
Jim I'll come do the ladder work if you can get Mary to make me some of that ground hog/marmot that was chasing her lst summer. Now that I have said that I have to find a way to pay for the ticket. I will tell you I almost made NYC brown alligators in my shorts when you had that first loud bang on the landing. Heads up next time. Will you be using a TEG on the stove to help move the air around? Sort of makes sense as you don't have to put any power to it other than the heat.
@@TheTradesmanChannel I thought I saw one for camping that would charge you phone. When I camp I don't need a phone so not likely to discharge the battery. Silly internet. Also if the zombi apocalypse happened I doubt your phone would be that useful if it even worked at all.
I'm watching you wiggle the stove into place after getting it up top and all I can think is: "He sure is putting a lot of stress on that leg he broke." Are you sure you aren't overdoing it and chancing going back to square one on recovering?
So Jim you say that stove has the air tubes inside on top? Mine does as well... but someone told me there's supposed to be a plate either under or over the tubes that seems to be missing. I gotta look into that. I may be sabotaging my wood burns and losing a ton of efficiency. Another question.. double or triple wall pipe... doesn't seem like it would transfer much heat. My stove is on the bottom story and the pipe goes all the way up through my open concept vaulted 2nd floor ceiling so it has a chance to heat up the air around it.. If it was double or triple wall I think I would lose that part of the heat transfer. Is that or should that even be a consideration when designing a wood stove install?
The stove venting has to be done in such a way that most of the heat stays in the pipe so you can get a proper draft. The less loss, the better. That's not to say that losing some will creates issues. This stove does not have the tubes in the top. I was saying that I've seen people make them for these stoves. It can be done but this stove works so well as is that I don't want to create issues.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Ah. I see. And are the stove pipes supposed to radiate heat as well? I definitely feel safer with double or triple wall pipes but the single walls give off good heat as well.
Installed them for many years, increased efficiency by installing on the wall or sides ,shiny metal , on 1" spacers . Also strap on half moon reflectors onto the chimney. When going through the roof the more pipe surrounding it the better. Checked out a wood heater installed 2 week before, and found part of of the truss near it turned to charcoal. Scary!, This was to code with 3 vented concentric pipes. When I left, it was 5, with alfoil wrapped around every timber nearby. 40 years later still ok. They must have had a rocket going.
Morning Jim.... one comment and one question.... first off, now that I'm old and things don't move like they used to, I've said to myself that if I had it to over again there would be a ton of changes keeping in mind the old age issue. When you're young you really don't think of these things when you're building, but they hit you in the ass when you get old. Try to keep that in mind if you can, those stairs alone may be an issue down the road. Question, is your barn presently insured, or have you checked into what requirements if any they are going to need to get it insured? I know a building like this, like my log home is a one of a kind that is difficult to put a price on if it had to be replaced, but that's something else to consider. I really don't think you're going to want to go through the barn build again, I know I would not want to build a new log home at my age. Good video.
Sorry I took so long to reply John. The building is covered under my homeowners insurance, at least enough to rebuild it if needs be but it will not be enough to cover the tools that will be in it. That is the biggest reason I didn't put the sawdust burner upstairs, I was a little worried about putting something that isn't UL listed in a shop full of sawdust and dry wood, not to mention the foam board.
@@TheTradesmanChannel But the big question is, would you go through all that again to rebuild it? Like I said, you're still young. At my age, no way, I'd buy a log kit first! Can't wait to see when you install that saw dust burner, I've never heard of one of those before.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Yeah, it was in my blood twenty years ago, but not sure I can do all that bull work anymore. I'd rather be on a beach some where sucking down a Corona!
Morning Jim. This was quite ratcheting entertainment. A couple of moments were rather jarring, but all in all a solid video. Why not lift it up to the loft door with the tractor? Is you tractor rig not high or strong enough?
I don't have the big tractor at the house right now. We have a big Case that picks plenty high enough to do the job with forks. I'm saving the favor for getting tools to the second floor.
I assume this is not already done and in edditing .... Have you thought of Ferric Chloride? It is a wet liquid that will stain your skin yellow so marrigolds are good to wear. Simply brush on a layer enough to wet the metal and it will convert the surface to a non corodable black surface! It is sold in motor stores as a rustproofer for cars but is also sold in chemists and I am sure e-bay or Banggood will be only too willing to take your cash for some .... it is also used in circuit boards for etching copper ;0) I have never tried this on a wood stove but it has worked well for me on steel with a light to medium amount of rust. ..... simply wash off any remaining solution with water! Maybe test a piece of steel in your forge to make certain? As I said I have not used it in this situation but I do not see any problems!
why not stoker up down stairs not too far from stairs and let heat come up. I think you don't have down stair all closed in yet. You may even get a more even heat out of it up stairs.
You did a good job getting it up the steps. Looking forward to the rest of the install!
Thank you
Good to see a little controlled sketchyness coming back, nice work fella
I've missed it.
I have a wood stove in my shop no lifting other then from truck to shop floor. I used to build wood stoves in 1980. Glad it went up well and all is safe enjoy.💚
Good morning Don.
Morning Jim stay warm
Glad you moved it by yourself. well done Superman.
Thank you Allan, hope all is well on your side of the world.
Well done! As my dad said, "Ood and quick never met on a job yet!"
That's a great phrase, I'm theiving it.
Good stuff Glad you will be warm soon
Me too, I figure around June.
That will be great Jim. Nice
Good job using leverage. Do it right and keep trick of it. It will still give you years of warmth.
Will do
That's some A-1 come-alongin', there Jim! I't'll be good to keep your coffee cup warm too...that's the main thing!
That should make it nice and warm up there, might be an idea to see if you have any concrete board about to put behind and under it to help with the protection. Grate video Jim.
Thanks Doug
Is that stove sitting directly on the wooden floor? Should it not be on an inflammable base - ie metal sheet?
It is on a metal base.
Looking good, thanks for the information on the wood stove. Keep them coming.
Smooth move JIm. I was wondering about the trap door but if it don't fit it don't fit.
Nice plan.
Well done!
Thank you.
Dear Jim,
Your little heavy lifting session reminds me of when I had to do mine except I was fortunate everything was on ground level ( no staircase). The double wall stainless steel chimney flue was quite a shock when I had to purchase it ( £100 per metre sections plus collars, through the roof cone, etc, etc...). I think the 5KW stove by itself was approximately £400 & with the added pipework the cost jumped to £1200 in total ( less installation charges which were an astronomical £1000 if done officially; I managed by sheer stroke of luck to get a fully qualified installer willing to do it for £400 cash in hand if you see what I mean!!!). But it did a great job warming up the place to a very comfortable 20+ degrees very easily ( went up to 34 degrees a couple of times too). Now remember I only used it essentially during winter seasons so upon dismantling the installation when ordered to do so I was expecting to see the pipes to be quite dirty. Putting my hand in the blackened pipe, I could not get anything . They were very clean surprisingly. The prospect of homely comfort using this stove will warm up the cockles of your heart. I am sure you'll all feel a great deal more pleased to enter a warmed up place ( Mary Rose & the children no less). Once the stove is going, I am sure productivity will go through the roof (no pun intended). very well done my old fruit. Kind regards.
From a crane operators perspective it looked very safe and very smart rigging!! Nice work!
Thank you.
The incline plane, one of the first "tools" man ever used. You're a genius my friend.
Good morning Jeff. No smarts here, just making do.
Excellent! Good man! Well done! Grinning.
Thank you
Nice work
Thank you
It goes faster at 2x playback speed PLUS it's hilarious when Jim talks!!!
Now I'm going to have to try that out.
I love burning wood also. I have an outdoor boiler for the house and a buck stove in my shop, both work great.
Morning Jim, good episode. M
Good morning Michael
congrats on getting that stove up there, so what you gonna do when one of the kids want to learn how to play the piano up there. :)
Will you do a video on installing the chimney?
Oh yes.
My heart sank when I read your video title! No! Surely not another accident?
Another lucky night. Good thing for chain hoists.
Ha! Amazing how lucky one can be when well prepared and highly knowledgable!
The 7 Ps, proper pre planning prevents piss pore performance.
Jim, with all of that cranking on the chain hoist, isn’t it a perfect opportunity for your boy to earn his keep?
I'm with you on hand tools sometimes being the best way to go! With power tools, work can go very fast, sure; but things can also go very bad, very fast, too! Everything goes faster with power tools - including accidents!
I agree.
What is that chain hoist called? Absolutely agreed about doing it by hand so you can feel when it gets caught somewhere, etc. And you brought that stove upstairs exactly as I would have. I live alone, and work alone, and sometimes do some pretty big/heavy stuff.
dont forget to set up some fire extinguisher stations
Very important
Jim.... that looked heavy just watching.
I think i have the same exact stove except my damper inlet handle comes out the side.
Good use of two of the five basic machines. Inclined plane and the lever. I don't know if the ratchet was part of the five basic machines but it was a good addition! I lifted a 600 lb. iron balcony up the outside of a house and then bolted it (thru-bolts) to the second story using the same setup with the chain hoist attached to the top rung of a 36' ladder. Just don't get under it!
Chain hoists are great tools.
nice job, moving stuff like that sucks with two people but what what the heck super dude , Yes getting up on the ladder will suck but i think you take your time you be fine , hope the stove pipe will proceed in a very easy form . Take care Jim see ya next time
Thanks Jerry
Now for an Episode of OTW!!!!
Say hi to Nathan for me.
hey jim that was a piece of cake.Have you thought about a concrete pad to put the stove on with a nib around it to keep the coals and ash on would save you a lot of work
I have some sheet metal just for this purpose.
@@TheTradesmanChannel I might be a bit old fashioned but I think the old hearth has proved itself over the years to be the best but will watch with intrest how you do it
I work with what I have, the price of raising a family.
are you busy working its 1145 pm here in Australia so I guess its Friday morning there?
Friday morning here and I'm at work, not a terribly busy day.
Another goodie Jim could you not treat the floor with a fire retardant paint or another method ? just an Idea I have Mary's vids on loop
Love those Coffing hoists. I have a 500 lb, 1500 lb and a 1 1/2ton. Right around 16:00 you kinda touched on a point I was going to make Jim, and that is that the burn characteristics you are familiar with on that burner for 29 years will probably be somewhat different with the new chimney configuration: flu type/height/fittings. In other words, for those with a lesser level of wood firing experience, going from a square or rectangle masonry to a 2100 degree SS triple wall will effect it as well as an added 90 or 45. A large factor is the change in height. The change could be negligible to varying levels of extreme but easily overcome as you well know. Hey man, I liked your rigging. In our trade many times the situation calls for a bit of uhhhhh... shall we say creativity in the rigging department, don't you agree. Another great video sir.
Rigging is a big part of what we do. I've put some huge compressors in alone doing the same thing.
Yessir, BTDT. Same here Jim. Are you familiar with the larger capacity RTU's like Trane, that run dual S/A fans or even a large hp single ? I'd change those failed motors by myself as well. Sandwich the top compartment with a pair of double struts with all thread then use a strut trolly and the small 500# Coffing to lift and roll out and back in with the new. Same thing with the Trane 100 ton screws on their larger air cooled chillers. McQuays, Yorks and others too. Tip of the old iceberg...you know. I'm glad retirement is allowing time to rest...kinda. lol.
All that stuff is what I work on. Big steam boilers as well.
TheTradesmanChannel yessir I knew you were a service tech back in one of your first videos when the company truck was in he background. Though I loved my career choice and worked over 40 years in it the only thing I really miss is my last service truck. Chevy 8.1 litre with Allison automatic and ten foot service bed. That was my portable tool box. I always preferred those over a van. Gets warmer quicker. Cools quicker and all the rattling is in a separate compartment !!! Have a nice day sir. I’ll be quiet now. Lol.
Jim, be an OLD HVAC guy myself I say you should have put radiant heating loops in the floor of the portion your wife gets. You gotta admit there ain't a better heating mode! Great job of the timber frame and the explanations you give while you're working on something. Keep up the great job and videos!
Thank you. I go for ultra low tech systems at home...spend too much time wrenching on stuff that's too high tech for its own good.
Just a couple comments. With a true catalytic stove like my 11 yr old Woodstock Soapstone stove, when you shut down the draft AND have proper temperatures in the reburn area, the wood will gasify in the main area, the the gases will still burn at high temperature in the catalytic reburn area. This is very efficient. My stove will maintain main outside wall temps of 400-500 F for more than 8 hours when loaded and set properly. It is a completely different world from a non-catalytic process, which I experienced for years prior to this stove. We burn 2-5 cords per year here in VA and the catalyst screen in my stove is still effective after 11 years of use. Also, one advantage of using a straight vertical pipe run rather than through the wall is that you can brush your entire chimney out from the inside where it is safe and warm. Thanks for your efforts in producing and posting your videos!
You have been lucky with catalytic reburn in that stove, it must be made very well. Most of the ones I've seen end up burning out within a few years. I like the stoves with the reburn in the top, the tubes that bring oxygen into the top after the fire is well established. They work the same way.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Woodstock is a great company. This stove allows you to bypass the catalyst for regular burns and to get the fire established. If you can't bypass, the catalyst will burn out quickly because the early burn contaminates the catalyst. But I probably burn 1/2 the wood under catalytic burn than I do with it bypassed, but we burn it both ways at different times. Also, the Woodstock Soapstone stoves will set you back a little dough too.
@@boooshes I just checked them out and yeah... a basic catalyst stove is like 2500+!!! I'm gonna have to look into them. I have the same stove at Tradesman and I love it. But if I could get a stove thats even better...
are you going to air gap some cement backer board behind your stove?
Cement or steel for sure, the stove also has a heat gaurd on it.
Yup. Insulate the roof. Staple plastic to the walls. Cardboard on the floor. Done for now!
I took a 600lb Delta Unisaw down my bilco stairs on a hand truck..... by myself! Lol I did it but it had every indication that General Stupid might strike again!
First question I had was, why not u through the trap door. You answered that. 2nd one was its a wood shop, are you not going to build anything larger than the wood stove to where you would not want the trap door large enough to get your builds out?
Yes i know you have the large door out of the top and yes i know swinging this in from outside, by your self would have been even more dangerous as well as even more of a pain.
Long story, not so short, i got the why's figured out.
Nice discription once again Jimmy!
I figure if the wood projects are too large to go through the floor or too heavy for the stairs then I'll assemble below.
An outside air Supply??
If the building was airtight I'd say of course but I'm not too worried about it out here.
In the barn?. Definitely not air tight.
Howdy, I enjoy your videos a lot. I was wondering if you hurt yourself building the barn, because you limp.
I fell off of the 2nd floor in May of 2018 and shattered my right ankle. A couple of surgeries and a lot of hardware in my leg. Leg is much better than when this video was made but I can tell you when the weather will change.
I'm you used the chain fall. My dumbass would have strapped it to a hand cart and pulled the damn thing up and drop the boys along the way.😬😵 That should definitely keep you warm up there. Enjoy your evening. See you on the next one buddy.
Jim I'll come do the ladder work if you can get Mary to make me some of that ground hog/marmot that was chasing her lst summer. Now that I have said that I have to find a way to pay for the ticket.
I will tell you I almost made NYC brown alligators in my shorts when you had that first loud bang on the landing. Heads up next time.
Will you be using a TEG on the stove to help move the air around? Sort of makes sense as you don't have to put any power to it other than the heat.
I probably will use those fans. They work great.
@@TheTradesmanChannel I thought I saw one for camping that would charge you phone.
When I camp I don't need a phone so not likely to discharge the battery. Silly internet. Also if the zombi apocalypse happened I
doubt your phone would be that useful if it even worked at all.
I'm watching you wiggle the stove into place after getting it up top and all I can think is: "He sure is putting a lot of stress on that leg he broke." Are you sure you aren't overdoing it and chancing going back to square one on recovering?
Believe me when I say if you overdo it you know it right off. It actually feels best after using it like this.
So Jim you say that stove has the air tubes inside on top? Mine does as well... but someone told me there's supposed to be a plate either under or over the tubes that seems to be missing. I gotta look into that. I may be sabotaging my wood burns and losing a ton of efficiency.
Another question.. double or triple wall pipe... doesn't seem like it would transfer much heat. My stove is on the bottom story and the pipe goes all the way up through my open concept vaulted 2nd floor ceiling so it has a chance to heat up the air around it.. If it was double or triple wall I think I would lose that part of the heat transfer. Is that or should that even be a consideration when designing a wood stove install?
The stove venting has to be done in such a way that most of the heat stays in the pipe so you can get a proper draft. The less loss, the better. That's not to say that losing some will creates issues. This stove does not have the tubes in the top. I was saying that I've seen people make them for these stoves. It can be done but this stove works so well as is that I don't want to create issues.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Ah. I see. And are the stove pipes supposed to radiate heat as well? I definitely feel safer with double or triple wall pipes but the single walls give off good heat as well.
Or the first floor in English usage !
There you go swearing again broom broom broom 😂😂😂 nice work getting that upstairs without hurting yourself or your building 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
Installed them for many years, increased efficiency by installing on the wall or sides ,shiny metal , on 1" spacers . Also strap on half moon reflectors onto the chimney. When going through the roof the more pipe surrounding it the better. Checked out a wood heater installed 2 week before, and found part of of the truss near it turned to charcoal. Scary!, This was to code with 3 vented concentric pipes. When I left, it was 5, with alfoil wrapped around every timber nearby. 40 years later still ok. They must have had a rocket going.
Any day not in the hospital is a good day.......
That's what I figure.
👍👍👍
Good morning Guy.
Morning Jim.... one comment and one question.... first off, now that I'm old and things don't move like they used to, I've said to myself that if I had it to over again there would be a ton of changes keeping in mind the old age issue. When you're young you really don't think of these things when you're building, but they hit you in the ass when you get old. Try to keep that in mind if you can, those stairs alone may be an issue down the road. Question, is your barn presently insured, or have you checked into what requirements if any they are going to need to get it insured? I know a building like this, like my log home is a one of a kind that is difficult to put a price on if it had to be replaced, but that's something else to consider. I really don't think you're going to want to go through the barn build again, I know I would not want to build a new log home at my age. Good video.
Sorry I took so long to reply John. The building is covered under my homeowners insurance, at least enough to rebuild it if needs be but it will not be enough to cover the tools that will be in it. That is the biggest reason I didn't put the sawdust burner upstairs, I was a little worried about putting something that isn't UL listed in a shop full of sawdust and dry wood, not to mention the foam board.
@@TheTradesmanChannel But the big question is, would you go through all that again to rebuild it? Like I said, you're still young. At my age, no way, I'd buy a log kit first! Can't wait to see when you install that saw dust burner, I've never heard of one of those before.
I would do it again on a heartbeat, accident and all if I had to. This kind of thing gets in your blood.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Yeah, it was in my blood twenty years ago, but not sure I can do all that bull work anymore. I'd rather be on a beach some where sucking down a Corona!
Morning Jim. This was quite ratcheting entertainment. A couple of moments were rather jarring, but all in all a solid video.
Why not lift it up to the loft door with the tractor? Is you tractor rig not high or strong enough?
I don't have the big tractor at the house right now. We have a big Case that picks plenty high enough to do the job with forks. I'm saving the favor for getting tools to the second floor.
You must have been an Ancient Egyptian in a former life.
Couldn't you have used the tractor to hoist the stove up through the door? You would have been done in an hour.
Tractor doesn't reach that door plus it's up the road with the loader off of it.
I was going to ask the same thing! So what's the point of the Gable end door if you can't use the tractor to put anything through it?
I'll be able to use it. We have a new tractor on the farm that'll pick that high. That tractor just wasn't available either.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Yeah, sure, your other tractor was at the garage. If I had a nickel for every time I heard that one... ;D
I may have worn that excuse out!
I assume this is not already done and in edditing .... Have you thought of Ferric Chloride?
It is a wet liquid that will stain your skin yellow so marrigolds are good to wear. Simply brush on a layer enough to wet the metal and it will convert the surface to a non corodable black surface!
It is sold in motor stores as a rustproofer for cars but is also sold in chemists and I am sure e-bay or Banggood will be only too willing to take your cash for some .... it is also used in circuit boards for etching copper ;0)
I have never tried this on a wood stove but it has worked well for me on steel with a light to medium amount of rust. ..... simply wash off any remaining solution with water!
Maybe test a piece of steel in your forge to make certain? As I said I have not used it in this situation but I do not see any problems!
I'll look for some, thank you Dave.
@@TheTradesmanChannel YW!
Well thats all your arm exercise done for the month LOL
Sure was.
why not stoker up down stairs not too far from stairs and let heat come up. I think you don't have down stair all closed in yet. You may even get a more even heat out of it up stairs.
Oh yeah the stack oops there is that
Just stay out of the damn hospital!!!!!!!!!
I'm trying
You need a dumb waiter to get firewood up there. Or some kids . :>)