Ford Explorer 5R55S Transmission Solenoid Pack Replacement
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- You can get the updated solenoid pack Here-
www.amazon.com/...
Motorcraft Mercon V-
www.amazon.com/...
You can get the nipple refill tool Here-
www.amazon.com/...
Here is the Suction Gun I Recommend-
www.amazon.com/...
Transmission Fluid Filter-
www.amazon.com/...
How to Fill Transmission-
• Fill & Adjust Transmis...
Torque Sequence Illustration-
drive.google.c...
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
You can get the updated solenoid pack Here-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQZARIE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AQZARIE&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=2BHE3Y23OBQLI6KB
Motorcraft Mercon V-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU67V8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000NU67V8&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=P6BN4VSHLB3GZHKX
You can get the nipple refill tool Here-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJMFK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000JFJMFK&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=A4VOTS2CZJJW7LW5
Here is the Suction Gun I Recommend-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FJT0304/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00FJT0304&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=DZ4ZIRPOKGY33LRD
Transmission Fluid Filter-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5DL54/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000C5DL54&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=DQINBACM77DCJGFK
How to Fill Transmission-
ua-cam.com/video/bOgs_zbzA5I/v-deo.html
Torque Sequence Illustration-
drive.google.com/file/d/156gm7M7WcAxQZDYqd3WMMihlfpnRZSRu/view?usp=sharing
FordTechMakuloco Man, I just stumbled onto your UA-cam channel. I’ve leaned more in the last 5 hours from your videos than I could have in a whole semester at some vocational (automotive) school. Appreciate your work and passion ! Really need advice with my 2001 explorer sport (2 door). I don’t drive it much at all, so it sits in the garage (sometimes for a few months). So I went to drive it into town and she fired right up, shifted smooth as butter into drive, but then when I hit the gas the engine just immediately stalled out on me. The truck barely even moved, and I tried several times, even holding the gas nearly to the floor. Put a new fuel pump and filter on it suspecting possible fuel related issue. Also fresh gas. Still no resolve. Could it be torque converter has gone bad ? Never had any hiccups with the drive train.. Any advice you have would be worth gold !!
I just had to thank you directly, my transmission soliend pack was undiagnosed for a year, depending on how you look at it you saved me a shop bill or buying a whole new car neither of which I can afford. So thank you, I'm a fulltime RR'ef and my Explorer drags my trailer, so getting stuck isn't an option.
Could I fill the trans through the dip stick tube if I don't have a fill nipple?
This fixed it! I did this and my transmission is happy again!!!! Also, thanks for torch specks. Saved me time searching all over the internet for it.
I was gonna junk my truck and buy a new one. After watching this video I’m tackling this project with confidence. Thank u Ford wizard
Hey FordTechMakuloco. I have watched many of your videos and they are all very good. Clear, to the point, and actually correct the issues. Thank you for your videos. You have saved me a lot of headache, time, and money. Much appreciated.
+John Crouch Nice good to hear!
John Crouch
FordTechMakuloco i put a new filter in and did a fluid change but I have about 6 - 6 1/2 quarts and nothing has came out of plug yet I did this because tranny had hard reverse and take off now goes in good but sheft funny what shouild I due
Hello ford tech, i have an 07 explorer limited 4.6 v8 and my horn is not working, i change the fuse but it still give a clicking noise . can please do a video on how to locate the horn. Thanks
E
Dude, thank you sooo much for taking the time and effort for this video. Your video assistance made doing this job myself go totally perfect....and it fixed the vehicle's problem.
What was your issue?
God there should be one of you at EVERY Ford dealer across North America! Great job!
I own 3 newer Ford vehicles, a 2013 Mustang 6 speed, a 2014 Fusion 1.5 Eco, and a 2016 Edge 3.5 AWD.
Just did a road trip from Montreal to Orlando and by the time I got here the transmission was shifting so hard I had to put it in Sport to shift it manually! It was driving 10hrs straight highway, then we hit traffic in Orlando and the shifting between 2nd and third was so hard I thought it wasn't going to make it the rest of the way!
Next day it was fine????
Sure my dealer is going to say there is nothing wrong as there was no codes when and if it makes it back to Montreal Friday.
Just graduated college and this problem hits me like a damn bat out of hell
I'm glad for this video I'm gonna do this myself. I hate the real world already man☹☹
What was yours doing when it went out?
Amazing! I appreciate all of the details that were covered in your video. We're experiencing valve issues with our and want to take a shot at this repair. Thank you.
Cool!
When this video was made these explorers were everywhere 2021 hardly see any
Thank you for responding I'm actually trying to change the fluid and filter which came out brownish not burnt and was going to buy a solenoid pack from amazon. I have 4 rusted rounded pan bolts that I need to figure out to get the pan down. I'm going to order the servo bores. I still need contact info though lol
He is the best he has saved me so much time and money you’re the man bro💯
2006 Explorer 135K, several months ago it started jerking and almost lunging when putting into reverse (thinking valve body). Then in the last 3-4 weeks it began having difficulty shifting from 2nd-3rd and 3rd-4th, would have to let off accelerator for it to shift (thinking solenoid pack). Got P0775 code the wrench light, but no engine light until last week with same code. Replaced solenoid pack and valve body, both remanufactured then reset PCM. It went into reverse without the jerk once, then it would shift into reverse, but wouldn't engage, it just revs up as if it were in neutral. It also shifts smoothly through 3rd now, but when it shifts into 4th nothing but the RPMs spiking, even from cold start. Also replaced filter and added 5-6 quarts of fluid. Fluid was dirty, but not burnt and there wasn't any brass or metal in passages of solenoid, valve body or pan other than small amount on magnet. Bad solenoid pack or another issue causing it to lose 4th/OD and making reverse act like neutral?
Randy Horn Update...put my original solenoid pack back in and now I have reverse, 4th and OD. Took it for extended 40 minute test drive and seemed to be shifting better and going into reverse smoother. Maybe just the valve body needed replacing? Will monitor for possible servo bore wear. Does the IM bore have any effect on reverse?
Hello! Let me start by saying "Thank You" for ALL your videos! I've learned a ton of vehicle fixes & such from your videos! Keep it up!
My Son has 2002 Explorer, with all the signs & symptoms of the typical servo problem & we also just completed a shift solenoid rebuilt pack. When all his shifting issues started, the 1st thing we tried was a typical Fluid & filter change. It seemed to prolong the issues, but never fixed it. After about 2 weeks of local driving, we completed the servo swap of both the OD servo & intermediate. We also did the solenoid swap at the same time. When we did the fluid change the 1st time, the trans fluid was damn near black!! Which was kinda expected! But now we're ready to instal some more new Mercon. Do I need to buy another new filter as well? I heard you mention contamination of the fluid? But the current fluid & filter have maybe 100 miles on them is all. What's your opinion? Is there any which that we could possibly clean the filter? Thanks for reading!
ScubaSteve
Cm
Thank you Ford Tech I’m getting ready to change the solenoid block on my 05 Explorer a little harsh shift from 2nd to 3rd thought it was the throttle body cleaned it thoroughly and replaced the TBS it’s back again so the block is next
Thank you for this. I have a 2010 V6 Mustang I put a remain trans in and the shift control solenoid connector would not come out of the old transmission. It actually crumbled. What is the best way to just replace the connector? I see a ton of aftermarket pigtails that look Jankey with just solid color wires and no schematic for installation. What is my next step? I appreciate it.
Thank you so much I just wrapped up the job I’m about to take the car out for a drive after 2 years of thinking of junking my first car and build
I noticed that when you put new pack in there that it was dripping fluid, do you need to submerge new pack in trans fluid?
@@newfie-dean5803 will that damage the pins?
@@newfie-dean5803 I'm not risking it I'm doing the install with a valve body tomorrow as well.
@@newfie-dean5803 i didnt realize need to soak unit had some shifting issues next day after changing solenoid pack . hopefully thats issue
Thank you for the video! My shift solenoid went out in my transmission and I just bought the part and will do it myself this weekend. At first I thought it was my fluid level but everything looked good and nothing on my magnetic in my pan but was a code for the shift solenoid d in my 2006 mustang. Thank you for all the good info!
Thanks for posting this video, it was well done and very helpful.
Unfortunately I ran into an issue after the solenoid replacement and was hoping you might have an idea of what may have went wrong or what I can check.
Quick background of car/issues and why I attempted the solenoid replacement:
O/D light started months ago, followed a few months later by slipping going from 2nd to 3rd causing me to have to release gas pedal for it to shift.
Went and got codes read: P0733, P0741, P0745
Milage: 185,000
I realize that the servo bore fix is likely needed as well, but I wanted to do this first and then that fix second.
I watched the video countless times before attempting the replacement myself yesterday. I am very meticulous and followed each step perfectly(or so I thought) and didn't run into any trouble except for one snapped pan bold upon removal. I cleared the PCM with the alligator clips, and began to proceed with the shift "learning" process. I started her up to back it out of the garage. The shifter moved fine though every gear (P,R,N,D,3,2,1) however I didn't feel or hear any shifting going on and the car will not move. It revs and purrs great, just no shifting whatsoever. I can press the O/D switch on and off and it illuminates as normal now.
Anything I can check or any idea of what might have happened during the solenoid swap that may cause this? Bad solenoid pack? Something in the solenoid pack connector? A fuse? I also replaced the trans filter, and used Mercon V from the links you included.
Thanks for your time and any suggestions.
-Bill
Bdashill
I forgot to add the year:
2002 XLT Explorer
What happened?
OMG fordTechMakuloco thank you very much for the reply and all the videos you are a great man and helped a lot of ford owners hats off to you !
Awesone Video ,,,, I can tell you take pride in your're work which is rare these days.
Thank you very much! Yes when it comes to trans work you have to be spot on.
FordTechMakuloco I've got a 2006 Mountaineer with 116k. Out of the blue it started to slip going into reverse only when cold. All the forward gears are fine when cold or hot. Reverse is fine once car is warmed up. Could this solenoid pack be the cause? There are no check engine or trans lights on the dash. Fresh Mercon V was done about 3-4K ago. Drain & Fill not flush. Truck is very well maintained which is why I was kinda in shock. 4.0L V6 btw
Foxxtrott1100
By "slip" you mean delayed engagement? For how long? First shift to reverse in am or will it do it multiple times until the trans is actually warm?
FordTechMakuloco I wouldn't say delayed... cause its not abrupt when it does engage... Its just slow and sloppy feeling and does kinda grind & klunk but its mainly sounds like drive line lash in general. Nothing alarming. Its like that until fully warm. Not just a single event
Foxxtrott1100 I have a 2007 mercury mountaineer 4.0 awd and it feels as though it is slipping in forward and reverse the first time you start it when cold and as soon as it warms up for a couple minutes its fine. did you ever find your problem ?
This dude is a wrench! I wish you were a tech in my area in Dallas!
thank you for your help appreciate your time making this video...
i just replace the solenoid on my ford explorer 2002 it works and i am very happy
hey I have a 2002 and its shifting funny from 1-2 if you stay on the throttle the rooms go up but won't shift as soon as you let the RPS come down it shifts fine until a stop then same thing it has a code for solenoid a the pressure one which one is that and will that fix the issue I have a flashing od light and service engine light but the only code is for the a solenoid
Ever find the issue? Mines doing the same thing now.
ATTENTION: Please be cautious as FORDTECHMAKULOOO specified the torque as 96 INCH pounds. NOT FOOT POUNDS. It's roughly about 8 fT LBS.
He probably meant to say 9 to 6
Well thank you. I saw this message to late. I just crushed my solenoid pack.
I appreciate you doing this video. Saves normal people from having to take the car to the shop and get charged $1000 plus. Anyhow, so my question is when draining the fluid from that plug on the pan only removes 5-6 quarts of fluid?
great video! i have a 2004 explorer 4.6 AWD. It takes a while to engage reverse and whet it does it jerks hard driving forward is not as bad but wont go when press the pedal it takes a while...
I got the bolt out, finally. After taking a break, I went back and found a solution. I broke a ratchet wrench down to about two inches long and it worked great. I got everything back together. I'll put the fluid in tomorrow and see if the solenoid pack was the problem. The transmission was clean as a pin inside. I cut the old filter open and it looked new. There was no metal on the magnet and I ran a really strong magnet through the fluid, that was left in the pan and got not one spec of metal. I guess that's a good thing. Thanks again and again, for your video - it was very helpful. The only thing I wasn't sure about was whether I was suppose to fill the solenoid pack with fluid. I didn't and I hope that's right. I didn't hear you mention it and found nothing on the Internet.
Sorry for the late reply we use a flex head gear wrench for those bolts, but they still suck. No you don't need to pre fill the solenoid.
You seen my fill procedure video right?
Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, I followed your fill instructions. Thanks! Replacing the solenoid pack did not fix the problem, however. I'm still getting the gear box error and it will not go in to overdrive. It really sucks. The car runs great and is in good shape; however, with the cost of rebuilding the transmission, I don't know what to do. I may just pull the running gear, suspension and other useful parts and junk the body. I can save the engine and suspension for when I build a kit car from Factory Five. Could it be something else, that an average mechanic can fix?
Oh, it's a 2001 Jaguar S-Type.
Do you think reloading the PCM might fix it? If so, do you clear the PCM, for a Jaguar, as shown in you video that you posted below - disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a jump from the positive to the negative cable? Could it be a Spring in the valve body? If so, do you have a video on rebuilding a valve body. I fear it's the planetary gear, which is probably out of my league.
so basically to just change the fluid to new fluid you can take the t30 drain screw out let it drain out,put a line on with adapter and pump 4-5 quarts of fluid back in through the hole, start the car with the pressure on the line for like 10 mins then pull the line off and let fluid run to a drip then put the plug back in the drain hole turn off car drive away
Quick tip, don't refill this transmission thru the Special refill nipple. Save your money and the headache of forcing all that fluid back into the transmission. Simply removed the rear speed sensor at the tail end of the shaft. It's on the driver's side on top, much easier this way.
We do that on rebuilds only.
@@FordTechMakuloco love your channel by the way, well explained content.
I am doing this exact job in a few days when the pack arrives. I understand how you did the driving learning. Was the idling learning you spoke of when you were just sitting with foot on brake and shifting from Park-drive back to park?
Hi FordTechMakuloco love your channel it has helped us out a bunch so thank you for the time you take to do these videos. I have a 2004 Ford Explorer that just started acting up over the past couple of days. Started out with the OD light flashing at lower speeds but once car is off then turned back on its clear. But the next day the OD started flashing again but this time service engine light came on. It didn't seem to mater if truck was hot or cold when OD flashed but it seems always at a lower speed. Pulled code 732, 735 and 750 of scan tool. Also noticed OD always seems to come on when I hit railroad track or a large bump in road. Not sure if related at all just an observation. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2004 Ford Explorer XLT 4.6L. When I put gear into drive it had a delay. When it does go into gear it’ll go then rev. Will reverse good. Only do the delay and revs when I put it in drive. Do you have any idea of what’s going on?
Sir, I enjoyed your videos and learned alit! I need your help, can you please read my symptoms listed here and advise on best move (note: I’m a DIYer- Handy just not experienced)
Symptoms:
-Intermittent late shifting and slipping. Happens randomly around 4th gear when accelerating, especially when I let go of gas around 4th gear and feed it has again. But sometimes it just happens as I’m accelerating and shifting up. O/D light flashes sometimes and can’t tell if there’s a difference when OD lights on or off. As for late shifting I can hear it revving too high when taking off at stop lights, (can’t see tach rpm as it’s a 99 Ranger 4cyl 2.5 2wd auto). Aside from that, truck shifts smooth and works perfect until these symptoms kick in. Reverse works perfect!
Here’s what iv done so far: Changed neutral switch/TR sensor (learned from your videos), rear axle abs sensor, syphoned most trans fluid out and filled it up to proper levels, also changed engine oil and filter.) No improvement! Please advise and thanks in advance 🙏🏽
Thank you I just replace the solenoid valve body because the O-rings on top of the plug leak water right down on top of the reverse valve causing it to fail especially in vehicles that sit for long periods of time so something to know always change the O-rings on that plug that goes in the top of the transmission place on the Explorer the AC and it dumps water right on top of it constantly
Nice love how the guy explain the whole thing,ease to do if you just follow the steps ,other guys videos omg wtf is wrong with them lol.
Sometimes my Ford Escape 2013 exhaust white smoke, it happens in any moment, during the starts in the moorning. Maybe one week happens that and then stop one month, then again begins the white smoke during the mornings, one day or 2 days or a week and then stops again, i have this issue maybe one year ago
Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on this video. One thing I didn't notice in the video is what to do with the valve body before installing. It seems to be dripping with transmission fluid, so that indicates that we need to submerge it in fluid before installing a new one Anyone know?
wow this actually looks alot easier than i was expecting, i have a 03 that wont shift from second to third and the OD light starts to flash unless i start in second an get to about 30mph or 3,200ish RPM then shift to drive, i just ordered the new solenoid pack and a decent creeper to make it more comfy now i just need to find a full face respirator because i still have horror flashbacks from replacing a CV axel and smelling ATF....i though well surely if it smells that rancid my cars burning up its transmission but no actually the dirty fluid somehow smelled slightly better than the new fluid....
Question, I just purchased a 2003 Thunderbird with 65,500 miles on it. It had been sitting all winter and they had just put a new battery in it before I purchased it. The transmission was a little harsh during the test drive, but there was no shutter. I adjusted my offer price in preparation for trans work, so I knew this going into the purchase. My brother watched your video on how to check and add fluid, so he drained about a quart of fluid, mixed the Seafoam Transmission treatment in a quart of Type V trans fluid and added it to the transmission. I drove it about 150 miles and now I have some shutter. The fluid he drained was very clean and clear, no burnt fluid or metal flakes in the fluid. We're going to drop the center plug again today and confirm fluid level then do your relearn procedure. If this doesn't fix the problem, what could be the root cause? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Do 08, 09, 10 5r55 transmissions have the servo bore wear problem or was it pretty much fixed by this time? What are you opinions on these years of explorers in terms of reliability? Thanks so much.
Filipina Homecleaners These are much more reliable yes but the servo bore issue is still there as they will wear over time indeed. Luckily there are servo bore fixes out there that can be done in vehicle.
Im a new sub. Once I can complete this repair, I will be donating in a couple checks. this looks like a breeze after watching your videos. Thank you FordTechMakuloco!
Great instructional video, I am planning to change the trans filter and fluid on my 2006 ford explorer Eddie Bauer 4.6. need some assistance from you about the best way to do this job and how to remove filter or when removing the filter is there any screws? Thanks in advance
Thanks for the video. I replaced my solenoid pack on my 06 mustang but now I have a blinking Over Drive code. Also an electrical issue code for the torque converter. Not sure what I've done wrong... P0743 code
Have you fixed the problem I have the same problem in my 06 mustang after I replaced the solenoid
@@raulpadilla1830 I fixed it! I had to make sure I had the right amount of trans fluid in when up at temp. I took the pack in and out several times before I realized that was my main issue. It was overfilled a little and messed everything up. The torque converter worked great and all gears shifted fine too!
Okay thanks man!
What are all the codes your car was reading ?
@@raulpadilla1830 P0743, P0750, P0755, P0760, P0765. I should have taken video of the process. At one point my car wouldn't go into gear at all. Oh, I just remembered, The 10 mm bolt that holds the power plug in on the top was not fully seated and didn't have a good connection. I had to really work hard at getting that to be fully connected. Once it was, and the right amount of fluid was in it shifted perfectly. If you're getting those codes and flashing check engine light try tightening that top bolt. let me know how it goes.
hi, were is the filter? I can't see. some people tell me the ford explorer don't need remplace the transmission filter. what u think about? thanks.
Please help I put a new filter and 5 quarts of fluid but it dumped back about a quart and a half and it won't got go into gear
Put 8 quarts
At the 9:20 mark when your done putting fluid in you are next seen shifting through the gears. It sounds as if the vehicle is not running. So after I put fluid in and cap it off do I shut off vehicle before I cycle through the gears or do I leave it running? Thank you so very much for your video. It's people like you who save people like me lots of money. 👍
The torque sequence link says 89 lb-in but you said 71 inch pounds in the video. Im thinking to go with what the link says. Im changing the solenoid pack on my 2008 mustang gt right now. It's like impossible for me to get that bolt out from the wire harness that leads into the solenoid pack from above the pass through. But you do it so easy like nothing. And im using the same wrench you recommended. Spent 40 minutes trying to get that bolt out. Im going to try again tomorrow morning.
Thank you I could not for the life of me figure out why it would not come out after I took all the bolts out.
hello enjoy your videos I have a 06 Explorer 4x4 I got the harsh reverse and sometimes harsh drive will this solve my issue
Just replace mine following all the steps, but now I get blinking O/D OFF! Possible causes on this? Any help will be appreciated. P.S Great video
i was told I have to soak the solenoid pack is that true or do I just install it like your video.
Nope you just install it. Think about it when you fill the pan after the solenoid pack is bathing in trans fluid constantly.
Thank you for this video, saved me so much money and time!
Excellent video and I agree with other comments about you taking the time to explain the steps. I have an 05 Explorer with 231K original miles. While driving the engine revs in 3rd gear, I let up off the gas and it shifts. The display reads; check transmission, could it be the shift solenoid? Is there another way to test or tell?
i have an 02 ford explorer with 140k miles it shifts fine from 1st them 2nd is going into neutral but if im doing 25+ and i let off the gas completely it shifts into 2nd like normal and if i dont she will stick in 1st and the od light will flash. do i need to change the pack or just clean it?
How do you disconnect the Connector on top ? It won't come off
FordTechMakuloco I have an 03 explorer. o/d off light is flashing and shifting hard from 2nd to 3rd. The code came back po796 pressure control solenoid. Should I replace the solenoid pack? Thanks.
Ryan Parker If the harness and connector check out fine then yes replace the solenoid pack.
OK thanks
@fordtech my o/d is flashing and code read p0745 for pressure control solenoid can I change it I have an 03 Ford explorer
Hey bro I a 5r55e transmission that goes into reverse but not forward. What can the issue be?
Hey, great info and video. Is there a way to do the tcm reset at home?
Hello, You mention in you description that the solenoid block can cause a no engagement situation. Hoping you could help me with a weird issue I have with my 2003 Mountaineer V8 AWD Reman (w/ reman sol block) trans about 2 1/2 years and 40K miles ago due to the dreaded flashing OD / servo bores.
-My problem, sometimes I get in (hot of cold) and drive anywhere... no issues, shifts perfect, no codes, leaks or other obvious problems. -Other times I get in and it simply will not move! Will not go into gear, rev doesn't help, shifter in all positions, nothing helps.
I have tried a fluid and filter change, no difference. The fluid and filter that came out appeared new and I'm sure this was a waste on money. Do you think the solution is the "Transmission Pump Flow Control Valve" may be sticking causing this or the solenoid block or is it time for a rebuild?
Thanks!
The solenoid block often causes harsh or delayed engagement but I have never seen no engagement. The fluid pump flow control valve can though.
did you ever figure out what was causing this Kevin? I am having the same issue, except with a rebuilt trans.
Not yet. Did the install a new flow control valve? Yours is sticking... Sonnax #56200-03K. It is behind the torque converter in the pump.
This is a different trans than mine. I would do a search for valve body and/or separator plate. I think you may find a solution.
Hello, nice video thanks, one question do you know if the original brand of this selenoide pack is bosh?
98 ranger xlt 2.5L 4 cylinder rear wheel: Lurching shift from park to reverse accompanied by engine stall but does not die( died once) picks up again after shift complete maybe? Same when shifting from reverse to drive, not all the time usually if I don't give the truck a few minutes to warm up. occasional whine. I was convinced it was the transmission perhaps something to do with the torque converter or tcc solenoid. Transmission shop thought it was the Throttle body valve solenoid they changed it, did nothing. Wife's Grandpa thinks its fuel related( I don't get how that would cause the lurching) or maybe vacuum related. Unfortunately there is no tachometer on this truck.Thoughts?
After replacing the solenoid pack, I've noticed an issue I didn't have before. If I let off the gas at about 20 mph, I get a clunk. This happens a lot in stop and go traffic. The original issue was the PCC, which resulted in a loss of OD and a clunk at the 3-4 shift point. That issue is gone, and even while it was present, the current issue didn't exist. I pre-soaked the replacement solenoid pack to get the air out, followed all torque specs, cleared the adaptive tables with Forscan and an ELM327. I can't think of anything I could have done wrong. The only code I get is a P1000 which won't go away, but I am pretty sure a bad thermostat is the reason for that since Forscan mentions that as a possible cause and I did notice the temp gauge lower than normal lately. I'll have a new one tomorrow. Is it possible the new pack is bad, but with no codes thrown? Only thing to note is that while replacing the pack, I discovered my mystery vacuum leak. It was a big line running to the vapor canister above the gas tank. Other than that, everything is as it was before the repair. Could fixing that have caused some issue, like a higher base idle or something? Maybe tomorrow I'll try cleaning the MAF and throttle body, and then disconnect the battery for a while so as to reestablish base idle without the vacuum leak.
Curious to know if you found a solution?
As for the P1000 code, I eventually found that it was because the evap monitor hadn't run. It won't run unless the intake air temp (IAT) is above 40° F. Good luck with that during a Buffalo, NY winter. Finally got it to run on a day when it was about 45°.
As for the clunk letting off the gas at about 20, after replacing the thermostat and again clearing the adaptive tables, it changed. It now happens at about 24 mph, but it is much less noticeable. It usually isn't harsh now, though occasionally it is. It seems that it happens much less since the speed it occurs at changed. I think that having to let off the gas at 20 may just happen more frequently than letting off at 24 in slow moving traffic. Truthfully, I can't remember when it did it harshly last. Since doing the transmission repairs, I've also replaced both rear wheel bearings, and the U-joints on the rear drive shaft. One of the U-joints was completely seized in one direction and so bad that if you let off the gas, you would feel the front end drop as if you were applying brakes. I believe I should probably clear the adaptive tables again after replacing the U-joints, simply because of the amount of drag the one was putting on the drivetrain. For the most part, I'd say it's fixed. After I clear the adaptive tables again, I'll drive it for a few days and update you.
@@SwapPartLLC hello sir any update, u found the solution?
@@brocuba6539 No. It's still got the clunk if I let off the gas around 20 to 24 mph. I'm pretty sure it's the "rebuilt" solenoid pack. Coming from eBay, who knows if it was really rebuilt or just cleaned up. I'm not putting any more money into it at this point. It won't pass inspection, and is more rust than metal now, so it's probably going to be junked in a couple months. I got 2 more years out of it at least.
My moms 2010 Ford Explorer won’t go into drive or reverse, I changed the fluid and filter and did it exactly as described, it was fine for a week and now won t do the same thing again unless I rev it to 3-4K rpms and throw in in drive, then the torque converter will engage, be able to move
What was the reason for the solenoid pack replacement?
Could a bad solenoid pack cause a Powertrain Malfunction Indicator (wrench light) along with the hard bumps into reverse and fourth gear? I'm about to tear into one as I think this is the problem, just trying to diagnose as much as I can before I start throwing money at parts. Thanks again! Great video.
tbowe10 No it will not cause a wrench light. Pull codes first.
Speed sensor on rear tires causes wrench
So when you reprogram those gears do you have to shift through them while the car is on or off or do you completely start it
Check engine light for pressure control solenoid B. Trans scanned a gear 2 ratio. Is this related and where do you begin to diagnose what exactly is causing the B code?
Great info, seem very knowledgeable. I have a 2003 V6. Seems to be completely missing second gear, and goes straight from 1st to third. No strange noises, all other gears shift great. OD light blinks and pulls OBD code P0775. Will this likely fix it?
Hi I hope you can guide me I have a 2006 explorer xls 4.0l v6 I don't have reverse some times when I shift in to reverse it will go but once I press the gas it just revs and loose engage. all forward gears work normal. Thank you.
I have this same issue! Did you find the fix?
i have a 02 explorer 4x4. my trans stopped working. every gear besides park acts like neutral
Hey my man. So good video. Do you know were can i get the wiring diagram for the selinoid body harness that goes to ECM? I would like to know what the purple wire is for? I goes to the top first right slot on the ECM connector.
I have an 03 ford explorer xlt 4x4 with the v6 4.0l with the code po755. check engine light is on. shifts from 1st to 2nd gear at a higher rpm than normal. Roughly around 20mph/ 3k rpm. Also 5th gear seems non existing while driving a longer distance. Just wondering if changing the solenoid pack will do anything or not.
Not sure if I replied already or not so here goes- Sorry to say but your servo bores are worn out and need to be sleeved which means overhaul time, these wallow out and lose pressure then get stuck. They control 2nd and 5th gears exactly what you are experiencing.
Hello,
My name is Bernard I have a 2008 Ford Explorer 4.0 and thought I would reach out to you with an issue my truck is having. I was driving my vehicle when all of a sudden the drive (D) shift stopped working. I quickly pulled over and stopped and realized I had no D shift and no reverse as well. but I am able to drive on 1st, 2nd and 3rd shift. I scanned my vehicle and the code I get is P1700. Based on what I have described my vehicle is doing could my issue be my Transmission control solenoid or something else?
I am trying to figure out what I need to replace though I am looking to repair it to get it running again if possible. Your help is much appreciated.
Did you figure out the issue. The exact thing happened to my 06
Bro a awesome High quality video with professional experience behind it
Hello, I have an issue with my vehicle the last couple months and I have not been able to resolve the issue. I was hoping to get some assistance from you after watching this video. I have done quite a bit of research trying to figure out what to do. I have a 2008 Ford Mustang with this 5R55S and it has a few problems. On second and third gear it "skips or hesitates" and sometimes the rear will have an audible clunk in the rear during those changes. Also, when I shift the transmission to reverse from park, sometimes it jerk backward and makes a LOUD noise. I drive smoothly and have never had any problems with this car until now, and I had the transmission fluid changed, thinking low or worn fluid was the issue. Finally, I also noticed when I reset the KAM, the 2/3 shifts fine for the first 15 miles or so? Thank you for reading this long essay!
lpmoora Your servo bores are worn and from the description the solenoid pack needs to be changed also I link to the latest solenoid pack in the video description above. There is a fix for the servo bore problem you can do without overhauling the transmission see this company Here- www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/
Excellent Job. Really good mechanics are rare.
I just had the trans in my 2005 explorer rebuilt a month ago and 3rd gear started messing up. Just took it back to the shop and he said the solenoid pack went bad and he has to rebuild the trans again. But he said I don't have to pay. Why wouldn't I have to pay for a new solenoid pack? I don't think that's part of the rebuild. Guess I'm just confused as to why I wouldn't have some kind of bill when he's done rebuilding it again.
Love the videos and insight. I have tried all parhways to find an answer maybe yiu can help me. I have a 2007 mustang 4.0 auto 5r55sTransmission went out and figured what it was after watxhing your video. Searvh around and bought a good. One from a 2010 salvage yard said it would work. in which it will not keeps throwing codes and barely moves. second transmission same result and then i am told fors made changes late 2006 and late 2007 and if i dont find that specific one year of 2007 i am screwed. what changes did ford make? Can i remedy the transmission i put in by using my year solenoid pack? Very frustrated and not happy with ford lately its been a nightmare. And. Alot of Money. i would appreciate any help
Thanks for this video first after I watched this I thought i can do it myself and i ordered one replaced it ...my car is 2008 ford explorer 4wheel drive i had check engine light on and went to autozone they said solenoid a,b,c,d elect issues then i replace it but after i drove an hour engine light came back and yellow wrench sign also ....what migh be problem is there anyway to re learn selonoid pack or reprogramming thanks
Hi FordTechMakuloco! I recently purchased a used 2002 Explorer with about 168k miles. The owner had the transmission replaced in 2010 with a rebuilt. I notice a bit of a late shift from 1st to 2nd gear, although no codes are showing. I'd like to get ahead of any problems (had I known of this transmission's reputation I would never have bought it!). I saw your video on the servo bore upgrade- would you recommend a solenoid pack replacement as well? I also see that there is a upgrade kit for this as well. In addition, it sounds as if there is a rattle coming from the torque converter. The mechanic told the previous owner this happens alot and not to worry- any thoughts? Thanks for your time and the awesome videos!
My transmission sometimes doesn't work at all. Nothing. No slipping just won't go into any gear. Done it twice. Working fine again. 07 Ford explorer. Any advise?
Hey man loves your vids I have a 07 explorer goes forward man bit all the sudden won't go into reverse what do you suggest
Hey I've got a '98 with the same problem, did you end up finding the problem?
@@MysticSixx I'm wondering the same. My 08 is doing the same.
I really appreciate your video; however, I am ready to take a sledge hammer to my car, over one friggin bolt. I have a Jaguar S-Type and I started getting a gear box error and it will not go in to overdrive. I was told it was the solenoid pack. I purchased a new solenoid pack, climbed under the car, this morning, took the pan off and when I got to taking the bolt out of the plug, my day went to hell. There is very little room on the side of the transmission and and nearly impossible to get a wrench in there. I finally found that I could get a short wrench on the bolt; however, I can only turn it a hair each time. I worked on the bolt for two hours and it has barely moved. At this rate, it will take a month to get the bolt out and then I have to put it back in. I could have finished the entire job in two hours. Do you know a trick to get to the bolt and remove it? I took the trans cross member off, thinking that it would drop enough so that I could get my hand in there, but, it only dropped a little - not enough to make a difference. The catalyc converter is in the way, as well. I am really frustrated, so, any help will be greatly appreciated. I have Parkinson's Disease, as well, and it's not easy for me to use my hands in tight places any longer. All I want to do is fix the car so that I can sell it, to help pay for a surgery that I must have. If you have some magic voodoo or something, please share it. Once again, thanks for taking the time to make the video - it made me feel comfortable with doing the job.
Are you suppose to soak the the solenoid in transmission fluid before installation. And for how long
FTM,
Very nice of you to answer all these Q's and I have another.
2006 xlt 4.0 with 173k, always serviced.
Started hunting for OD the last few days in lower speeds (less than 55ish) fine at hwy speeds and no codes.
Gonna drop the pan and change fluids/filter.
Any insight on what could be wrong? Beginning of the end? LOLz
www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/symptoms--solution.html
Thinking this might be a fix....
At that mileage yes the servo bores are worn and will double bump type feel. I would drive it till it quits.
What do you think about the re manned oring servos?
They look like a good fix for the average Joe
It looks like a good idea on paper yes but unless those orings are strong the side loading will destroy them over time still that is why the bores are metal to metal in the original design.
Is it a transmission solenoid pack if there is no check engine light or any other light but at every stop it boots into each gear until fourth or if it shifts hard into first or into reverse when you start it in the morning or after park it for a while and start it? A little more info is.... it sat for 4 years i bought it and I've been driving for a year and it has been "slowly" getting worse every month. Thank you for the response if you chose to give one.
2007 explorer. Was slipping in 3rd gear. Replaced solenoid pack. Worked for about 12 hours, now I have no reverse, no power in forward gears. When vehicle is in the air, the wheels turn forward while in neutral. Any ideas. I checked the electrical pins/wires, nothing to be seen bad there. Tried resetting pcm also.
do you remember the code you had and what the discription was ??
no the truck doesn't stall out it just wont come out of overdrive so I can pull my trailer,i,ve tried the button on the highway and the rpms don't move.at 70mph I,m doing around 2 grand on the tach
Hey, I have a 2005 Explorer V8, when I drive it is a little hesitant with pulling off and jerks a little while stopped. Also going up a hill it makes my check engine light flash. After a nice ride it'll turn my O/D off...so now I drive easy and leave it off. is it something like that?
chanel cooper What is the code it is setting.
So it calls for 5 qts but when you let it drain util its dripping the way it should, i dont ass more ? This makes it less than 5 qts ? Had me a little confused
Thanks for the video. I have a 2005 Explorer. We've had rough and delayed engagements into reverse and drive for a couple of years with no codes no OD light. After watching your vid, I decided to change out the solenoid pack. After filling with trans fluid, I started the vehicle to level off the fluid and immediately the OD light came on flashing. I continued with the procedure and test drove. Engagements were better but, the OD light continues to flash and it set a code. Code is P0706. Test drive indicated that all shifts were better than previous. I don't understand. Could I have gotten a defective pack? Possibly something else wrong? Did I miss something? Remember I had no trans codes prior to the pack replacement. I am leaning towards a defective pack as I did purchase this from ebay. If you have time relay your thoughts. Thanks.
well just had local shop say it needs a total rebuild $2000. . it wont move in 1st at all or 2nd at all or 3rd but will go in D and slips till about 20 mph still the solenoid pack ? really sorry to bother you .
Sounds like it's burnt up a fluid smell check and pan drop will tell all. The solenoid pack generally only causes engagement issues.
Greetings and happy holidays.I have Ford Explorer 2006 XLT Sportage. I got a strange problem a day before. I drive around 150 miles and stopped at a station for lunch. After around 50 minutes when i started my car it cannot engage any Gheer , None, Tried R, D 1,2,and 3 nothing owrked. Then i call a tow truck and took the car to the workshop. Once the tow truck arrived to the workshop i started the car and move the lever to R and it worked and did the test drive all the gheers are working fine. What was wrong? Why before 4 hours i was not able to engage any gheer . A day before while on cruise controle 110 miles per hour i noticed some Transmission Oil leaks from the blow pipe. But without cruise control on this speed i didnot see any oil coming out from the blow pipe(over flow ). Kindly let me know what is the issue here. Why all of a sudden i cannot engange any gheer and later all is working fine. Thanks.
Z. Rather
I have a question. I bought a reman Solenoid Pack from a seller eBay. Watched your great video, did everything you said. Once I went on my test drive, it did the same thing it did before I changed it. Before putting it in, the trans hard shift between 2nd and 3rd. Is it possible I could have received a bad one or is it possible I g=could have other issues? thanks
Is there a relearn/reset process to do with a scanner after a new solenoid pack is installed on the valve body for a 5r55w? 2004 Explorer 4.0
will this solve my p0775 code? "Pressure Control Solenoid B"
Did he respond?? I'm wondering the same thing
What are the specs for the screws that's needed for the solenoid block pack 5R55N
I lost two of mine and need to know what the types are please
What are the odds the solenoid pack is the sole problem when the od light is flashing and check engine code is reading solenoid b? I am tempted to try this, but I have talked to a couple Ford techs that say there is likely a further problem and the transmission needs rebuilt.