That was a really good description of how that works, I can tell that you know your stuff, Im going through all of your ranger videos and it's really good videos
I just did this to a points distributor on my old 390 & I just took the heavy spring out & took a light spring from another distributor & replaced my heavy spring with a light spring. I put it on 13L so I have 26 degrees of advance & I checked it with my light & it comes all in at 3000 rpm. It works great.
Great video learned a lot however I'd like to know how this applies to the 5.8 351 Windsor I've recently swapped in a duraspark to system in my 86 F150 and ran great up until the pickup coil went out, I changed that and now the timing is all off truck still runs good but took it out last night and it started acting like it wasn't getting gas intermittently had also noticed it was getting hot oh, I set the timing initially at 10 degrees with the timing gun set on zero at 700 RPMs I've tried to figure out what I possibly did wrong with the timing so I can get this thing right any help would be appreciate it thanks in advance hope to hear from you soon.
Duraspark is duraspark and applies equally to any engine. I would bet you have the distributor in wrong. Needs to be lined up with number #1 spark plug location on tdc compression. Pick up the distributor and re stab it.
I don't think the two arms are additive. I think Ford just used half the advance value as a part number. But I could be wrong. In any event, where can we get new arms? Or are we stuck cutting them?
No, the arms are additive so 13L would be 26 degrees mechanical plus initial for total. Don't know of anyone selling them. We usually get a bunch of different ones from the junkyard and weld them to get the curve we need.
@@HammerHeadGarage I have mine apart. They are not additive. The springs are but the stops aren't. Oddly enough mine proves this because it's got two different arms. A 13R and an 18R. But it'll only get 26° of mechanical advance the way it's put together. I could swap them to get 36°, and I might do that eventually. I might not even be getting 26° now because there's a sleeve around the stop which I assume is there to lower the advance. I'm not sure if it's really supposed to be there.
I know this is an old video, but I'm currently in the process of rebuilding a Motorcraft distributor and the bushings for the weights are shot. I had to remove the slots and weights in order to properly clean them. Does anyone have a part number or know of a manufacturer that still produces these or something similar that would work? I have two Motorcraft distributors to pull parts from, but one of them has a metal bushing on the weight's post that is not removable without destroying. They are the pee-yellow bushings at 10:28 in the video.
This says it has the advance limit bushings in the kit. www.ebay.com/itm/1-Bushing-Mechanical-927G-Mr-Gasket-Advance-Curve-Kits-2-Weights-MRG927G-/151205960267
Can I use this on a stock 77 ish 400? Want to wake my 77 marquis up. Engine needs rebuilt got blow by but doesn't even hesitate to start. (Long story on how it was brought back to life)lol) but I've got a second spare that is gonna get build but I want to have fun with the current power plant.
Great video. Mostly watched because I wanted to know how to replace the magnetic pickup in my 82 bronco. It works fine but the plug disintegrated. Right now I'm stock so I don't suppose I need to recurve. Have you recurved a stock motor?
@@HammerHeadGarage question bro, should the pickup touch the reluctor as it spins? I bought a aftermarket Duraspark and when spinning the shaft the reluctor just barely touches the pickup sensor..
Never really dealt with the duraspark 2 system before but I recently purchased a 79 Bronco and it has a bad coil on it. I was going to tear it all out and go back to old school but I was told that this is a much better system. Any tips for me? It needs a new coil I know that much. Would putting a 12v coil with an internal resistor work on this system or would the module not like it. I have one laying around
Hi Harry. It would be wise to switch the coil to the type with an external resistor. Get a duraspark 2 distrib and a module with the blue plug. Might be able to find it all cheap at the junkyard. Napa still sells the modules and the trigger unit inside the distributor.
So if I want to lock the distributor out all I have to do is remove the springs and safety wire the arms together? Light track car only. Eventually I’m only going to need between 18-20 degrees total for blow through turbo setup.
yup, getting the right gear might be a chore. I just ordered a parts store Dura spark 2 for a 1985 5.0l with a manual transmission. It comes with a steel gear. Rock Auto has them.
So, if I have 13L on one plate and 18L on the other does that mean I have 26 or 31 degrees? I thought only one side, in my case 13L, was activated at a time. There is only 1 post on my distributor. I am getting more than 26 degrees on my engine and it would really like about 20 + the 15 base I have in it. Do I need 2 10L plates?
Use the 10L slot, that will equal 20* @ the damper (remember to double distributor degrees to see what you'll read at the damper) which will give the 35* total you're looking for. Here's a link to more instruction, may help clarify what was said here. www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html
It's great you post this old school stuff. It's been close to 20 years since I or anybody I know has bothered with a distributor re-curve kit! Have you bothered with this new stuff that is all computer managed and programmable? If we lose the tech ability we have today this knowledge of old stuff might be considered an invaluable skill because the old stuff seems to last forever but electronics are always taking a dump and are mostly not repairable to a layman. Good Job!
Thank you Jim. Yes I know both worlds and have built several fuel and timing maps for fuel injection. I'm old school at heart tho my man. Thanks for the comment appreciate ya.
Actually, if you set the arm that shows 18 into the slot with the stop, you'll get 26 degrees advance. If you move it around 180 degrees to where the 10 arm is in the slot, you'll get 20 degrees. Try it and see.
great - even helped me w/'initial' v '2ndary', base v mechanical. Cool dude, even has my beard, but not my accent LOL. Yep, we follow the aussies. When we went bent8 muscel (60s) they stuck w/the i6 & came up w/the 'X-Flow'. 500 HP ford six... fordsix.com/viewforum.php?f=3
That was a really good description of how that works, I can tell that you know your stuff, Im going through all of your ranger videos and it's really good videos
Thank man. I will check your videos out too.
I just did this to a points distributor on my old 390 & I just took the heavy spring out & took a light spring from another distributor & replaced my heavy spring with a light spring. I put it on 13L so I have 26 degrees of advance & I checked it with my light & it comes all in at 3000 rpm. It works great.
Yeah they are pretty lazy from the factory. Right on man.
Good info . Last 302 I had was the late efi distributor with the plug taken out(drag car) and run at full advance.
.good informative how to.
Yeah distrib recurving is super old school stuff but suprising how many people don,t know about it.
Great video learned a lot however I'd like to know how this applies to the 5.8 351 Windsor I've recently swapped in a duraspark to system in my 86 F150 and ran great up until the pickup coil went out, I changed that and now the timing is all off truck still runs good but took it out last night and it started acting like it wasn't getting gas intermittently had also noticed it was getting hot oh, I set the timing initially at 10 degrees with the timing gun set on zero at 700 RPMs I've tried to figure out what I possibly did wrong with the timing so I can get this thing right any help would be appreciate it thanks in advance hope to hear from you soon.
Duraspark is duraspark and applies equally to any engine. I would bet you have the distributor in wrong. Needs to be lined up with number #1 spark plug location on tdc compression. Pick up the distributor and re stab it.
Also, Daniel, I have seen brand new Pickup coils be bad right out of the box. You might want to try another one.
Excellent video!
Thank you.
Australians are really good at building 351 Cleveland Motors. Canadians and Australians really love Ford products
Yup, some of the best heads around for these engines are Australian.
Great video on the duraspark 2 curve. Its intresting to learn this. I prefer the old school way.
Yeah there are not many of us left :) what worked back then still works today. Thanks for the comment!
I don't think the two arms are additive. I think Ford just used half the advance value as a part number. But I could be wrong.
In any event, where can we get new arms? Or are we stuck cutting them?
No, the arms are additive so 13L would be 26 degrees mechanical plus initial for total. Don't know of anyone selling them. We usually get a bunch of different ones from the junkyard and weld them to get the curve we need.
@@HammerHeadGarage if you stop one arm with your finger, does the other one stop or keep going?
@@HammerHeadGarage I have mine apart. They are not additive. The springs are but the stops aren't. Oddly enough mine proves this because it's got two different arms. A 13R and an 18R. But it'll only get 26° of mechanical advance the way it's put together. I could swap them to get 36°, and I might do that eventually. I might not even be getting 26° now because there's a sleeve around the stop which I assume is there to lower the advance. I'm not sure if it's really supposed to be there.
I know this is an old video, but I'm currently in the process of rebuilding a Motorcraft distributor and the bushings for the weights are shot. I had to remove the slots and weights in order to properly clean them. Does anyone have a part number or know of a manufacturer that still produces these or something similar that would work? I have two Motorcraft distributors to pull parts from, but one of them has a metal bushing on the weight's post that is not removable without destroying. They are the pee-yellow bushings at 10:28 in the video.
This says it has the advance limit bushings in the kit. www.ebay.com/itm/1-Bushing-Mechanical-927G-Mr-Gasket-Advance-Curve-Kits-2-Weights-MRG927G-/151205960267
My 82 Ford ranger distributor had 3,16 wobble, totally warn out , orileys sold me a rebuild replacement and it worked fine,
Can I use this on a stock 77 ish 400? Want to wake my 77 marquis up. Engine needs rebuilt got blow by but doesn't even hesitate to start. (Long story on how it was brought back to life)lol) but I've got a second spare that is gonna get build but I want to have fun with the current power plant.
Great info. Does the base plate with the cam come off the shaft? My is sticky and freezes and want to clean up. Thanks
The base plate and cam can come off yes. Usually not easily.
@@HammerHeadGarage got it, some love tapping and she came off. Cleaned, oiled, works better. Thank you.
@@norwich93CMP Hope it helped you
Great video. Mostly watched because I wanted to know how to replace the magnetic pickup in my 82 bronco. It works fine but the plug disintegrated. Right now I'm stock so I don't suppose I need to recurve. Have you recurved a stock motor?
Thanks for watching. All sbf engines benefit from a faster ignition curve. They are lazy from the factory.
Actual this applies to all ford V8 distributors from early 60's on till mid 80's DuraSpark has been around since 75-76.....
Yup, all I know is they work :) thanks for the comment.
@@HammerHeadGarage question bro, should the pickup touch the reluctor as it spins? I bought a aftermarket Duraspark and when spinning the shaft the reluctor just barely touches the pickup sensor..
@@S_C_A_R_F_A_C_E No there should be a little gap. Air gap.
@@HammerHeadGarage thx for the info. Sent that china made pos back today
Love to know what weights for 22 degrees advance for 14 degrees initial timing
Never really dealt with the duraspark 2 system before but I recently purchased a 79 Bronco and it has a bad coil on it. I was going to tear it all out and go back to old school but I was told that this is a much better system. Any tips for me? It needs a new coil I know that much. Would putting a 12v coil with an internal resistor work on this system or would the module not like it. I have one laying around
Hi Harry. It would be wise to switch the coil to the type with an external resistor. Get a duraspark 2 distrib and a module with the blue plug. Might be able to find it all cheap at the junkyard. Napa still sells the modules and the trigger unit inside the distributor.
So if I want to lock the distributor out all I have to do is remove the springs and safety wire the arms together? Light track car only. Eventually I’m only going to need between 18-20 degrees total for blow through turbo setup.
Yeah just disable it. Or weld up the gap in those arms for the timing you want.
Great info....thank you
Thank you. I Hope this helped you.
i have a 351 roller block, do you think if i put a steel gear on it for the roller cam, i could use the duraspark dizzy, going in a 68 cougar..
yup, getting the right gear might be a chore. I just ordered a parts store Dura spark 2 for a 1985 5.0l with a manual transmission. It comes with a steel gear. Rock Auto has them.
@@HammerHeadGarage okay good to know that might be a way to go. I'll look into it. Thanks!
@@michaelmeeter2589 Sure thing man. Let me know if I can help with anything else. Good luck.
So, if I have 13L on one plate and 18L on the other does that mean I have 26 or 31 degrees? I thought only one side, in my case 13L, was activated at a time. There is only 1 post on my distributor. I am getting more than 26 degrees on my engine and it would really like about 20 + the 15 base I have in it. Do I need 2 10L plates?
If you want 20 mechanical yup need two 10l arms or weld up what you have to give you what you need.
Use the 10L slot, that will equal 20* @ the damper (remember to double distributor degrees to see what you'll read at the damper) which will give the 35* total you're looking for. Here's a link to more instruction, may help clarify what was said here.
www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html
It's great you post this old school stuff. It's been close to 20 years since I or anybody I know has bothered with a distributor re-curve kit! Have you bothered with this new stuff that is all computer managed and programmable? If we lose the tech ability we have today this knowledge of old stuff might be considered an invaluable skill because the old stuff seems to last forever but electronics are always taking a dump and are mostly not repairable to a layman. Good Job!
Thank you Jim. Yes I know both worlds and have built several fuel and timing maps for fuel injection. I'm old school at heart tho my man. Thanks for the comment appreciate ya.
Right on the money about the detonation 👉
Actually, if you set the arm that shows 18 into the slot with the stop, you'll get 26 degrees advance. If you move it around 180 degrees to where the 10 arm is in the slot, you'll get 20 degrees. Try it and see.
Yes, you can move the arm. Usually tho you need to restab the distributor as the rotor is now facing the wrong way.
I'm not sure this will work on my distributor I believe my 94 95 mustang gt 5.0 is a different animal
You can use a duraspark ignition and distrib in any 302 roller motor but no its not the same as the one that came with the fuel injection.
great - even helped me w/'initial' v '2ndary', base v mechanical. Cool dude, even has my beard, but not my accent LOL. Yep, we follow the aussies. When we went bent8 muscel (60s) they stuck w/the i6 & came up w/the 'X-Flow'. 500 HP ford six...
fordsix.com/viewforum.php?f=3
Thanks for the comment. Cheers!