Here’s a tip, when hanging base if you are right handed go anti clockwise around the room. That way you are always cutting on your scribed joint on the right. I’ve been a carpenter for over 30 years and I promise this will save you a ton of time.
@@babukatv6923 for a square room I would start on the wall with the door. You have 2 square cuts typically, then hang the base board or skirting board in the UK anti clockwise around the room. This way you will only need to cut the scribe on the right end of the board until you get to the last wall. That will require a scribe on both ends. Cut this board slightly long and squeeze it in. This will make the joints tight both ends. Hope that helps. If you facing the door the next board you will hang will be on the left.
@@MaxRank that’s very helpful and informative, thank you. On the last skirting board you install you say make it slightly longer, how much longer roughly would u recommend in Millimetres
@@danielmclaughlin5194 I wouldn’t go longer than 5mm. On plaster board walls if you go longer and sometimes at 5mm you will break the tape joint in the corner of the room. Never cut the skirting long against door linings, this can push over the lining and cause the door to bind.
Excellent tip on coping after first cutting with chop saw most of the cut. Outside corners 46 degrees, inside corners 44 degrees due to mud buildup. Popsicle sticks as shims for perfect fit. Also try cutting with baseboard upside down. For some baseboard profiles, the fit is better when cut upside down. Fast curing glue with activator is a great tip. Thanks.
I was struggling to figure out how to explain this in text but I found the video that will explain the inversion rule when it comes to miter cuts. ua-cam.com/video/Ca0PRZ6ki8M/v-deo.htmlsi=Mc0OuWQgu9_5Knps
Great video! Only issue I saw was pushing in the base with your thumb right on the corner where you're nailing. That nail can turn and go through your thumb. I found that out from experience!
Use "Painter's Putty" for the nail holes. It doesn't shrink. Don't use spackle. (It dries concave) Roll the Painter's Putty into a quarter size ball, press firmly into the brad hole with your thumb as you run your spackle knife between your thumb and baseboard. This cuts the putty off for a perfect fill. Finnish up with a little touch-up paint. Good luck!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! My OCD stays in high gear 😁 Have to make it right, keep it real. I've always said, "Do it right, or just don't do it!" ✌️
Great video - I'm helping out a friend and your tips make me look like a professional (or at least shows I know what I'm doing). You explained it very simple and concise. Thanks!
I like to use a small bucket of water to rinse my finger of the excess caulking. I use a wet towel to wipe off any remaining excess caulking after initially using my finger to wipe off caulking because over time, the thin film of caulking spread by the finger over unintended areas tend to darken over time.
For something like this I’d have the wet sponge behind the caulk gun comes out clean and no constantly cleaning ur finger but there’s 1000 ways to skin the cat
Great video.. Had a nice honey-do project, putting up 2 murphy beds, which required removal of the existing baseboard. This video gave me all the confidence needed, to cut my baseboards and fit them nicely beside the beds. You even answered my question to paint them prior to install and they came out great!! Thank you kindly!! 😁
Thank you, very helpful and I see we both have a little OCD lol I'm really just a perfectionist. If you're gonna do it, do it right! Always how I felt. That's how you get quality.
Good job on the cope. I have remodeled a house and just cannot master the cope. Guess I do not have the patience and it is counterintuitive to my finishing skills.
My comment is coming 3 years latter after the video is uploaded . The lesson and your job about corner cut and coping are awesome . Thank you for that . But I was little frustrated that you nailed the baseboards and the nails remains on. I hope in nova days you start using silicon for gluing baseboards to the wall for best and nice looking .
When you run your finger to smooth out caulk, instead of wiping on a wet rag, use that caulk on your finger to fill nail holes. Then use wet rag or sponge to clean any remaining caulk around nail holes.
I’ve been installing for 45 years for multiple interior decorators and designers, ALWAYS turned out perfect filling nail holes with caulk. Matches white baseboards and no need to paint.
If the nail hole is small enough why not just fill it with what you have to work with? I didn't have any of those at the moment and was too anxious to wait so I filled the hole with cooked rice. Just smashed the ruce and filled the hole, wait for it to dry, smooth it out if needed and paint. Looks fine to me. Lol
No matter what you do you still need to use silicone to hide the small gaps cause not all walls are close to being perfect. Plus I think it would take more time with using little saw for the inner corners. For someone doing the whole house, you be there the whole day or two.
Hi remodeller here. I don’t know why you do the straight cut last. You should cut the mitre last always. And you measure it by butting the straight part on the wall or door casing and pencil the mitre and cut from the pencil line. And if you are doing coping corners. You are going to need a jigsaw or a grinder with a sanding blade. Finish carpentry has more in depth videos about this.
Hi nice video! I prepainted (sprayed) my trim in my garage and they look great. How do you go about filling and then painting those holes if you don’t want to mask off and spray again. Any tips or secrets to hiding those dots of paint?
Do you also caulk over where the nails/staples went in? I didn’t paint my baseboard before installing😩 I can also see where the nails went in. Can I caulk along the top even though we just painted the walls too? Or will I have repaint by the trim? Sorry for all the questions, I’m new at home diys
Very good video. Question - when measuring for an inside corner and planning on coping, is the coped board measured to the edge of the board already in place? Or, measured to the wall so the top of the cope would meet the wall? I hope that makes sense!
step 1 make sur you set up your saws to have a perfect vertical blade rest is good glue is not needed but a level of professionalism that is above the rest
Quick question: why do coping rather than simply mitre cut both pieces at a 45* angle? Cutting both pieces at a 45 leave you without a gap and takes a whole lot less time . . . I just want to understand why you’d choose to cope over a mitre. I apologize if I missed it during the video.
There are seriously a half dozen good reasons. Professionals cope. If an inside miter was the right way, pros wouldn’t cope. Wall variance, joints opening, and with an inside miter you’d have to get lengths just exactly perfect. Those are a few reasons anyway👍
@@JayRiemenschneider thanks, I will give it a go with coping on my baseboards -- a new skill to learn. I have managed to get lengths just right so far with the 45 degree cuts, but I have done it only on ceiling trim on 3 walls so far.
@@MargaretEldridge-p1c good on you. It's really a simple skill and you'll be proficient quickly. Another important thing is to work counterclockwise around a room so you're always cutting and coping with your good hand, assuming that's your right hand. And as demonstrated here, cut that straight part with the miter saw. You'll have it in no time and it's proper
At 8:50 why was there a gap in the outside part of the miter? It was glued together before it was installed, yes? So it should have been a perfectly tight miter. What happened?
Here’s a tip, when hanging base if you are right handed go anti clockwise around the room. That way you are always cutting on your scribed joint on the right. I’ve been a carpenter for over 30 years and I promise this will save you a ton of time.
For a square room lets say starting from bottom and go right?
@@babukatv6923 for a square room I would start on the wall with the door. You have 2 square cuts typically, then hang the base board or skirting board in the UK anti clockwise around the room. This way you will only need to cut the scribe on the right end of the board until you get to the last wall. That will require a scribe on both ends. Cut this board slightly long and squeeze it in. This will make the joints tight both ends. Hope that helps.
If you facing the door the next board you will hang will be on the left.
@@MaxRank that’s very helpful and informative, thank you. On the last skirting board you install you say make it slightly longer, how much longer roughly would u recommend in Millimetres
@@danielmclaughlin5194 I wouldn’t go longer than 5mm. On plaster board walls if you go longer and sometimes at 5mm you will break the tape joint in the corner of the room. Never cut the skirting long against door linings, this can push over the lining and cause the door to bind.
@@MaxRank thank you brother
Excellent tip on coping after first cutting with chop saw most of the cut.
Outside corners 46 degrees, inside corners 44 degrees due to mud buildup. Popsicle sticks as shims for perfect fit.
Also try cutting with baseboard upside down. For some baseboard profiles, the fit is better when cut upside down.
Fast curing glue with activator is a great tip. Thanks.
I was struggling to figure out how to explain this in text but I found the video that will explain the inversion rule when it comes to miter cuts.
ua-cam.com/video/Ca0PRZ6ki8M/v-deo.htmlsi=Mc0OuWQgu9_5Knps
Simple explanation for beginners. Keep these coming.
The best baseboard install video I've seen, super informative, I'm doing mines in a couple weeks. This video helps me feel more confident about it
Great video! Only issue I saw was pushing in the base with your thumb right on the corner where you're nailing. That nail can turn and go through your thumb. I found that out from experience!
You explained it so much better than a lot of the videos I have been watching! Thank you!!
Thank you so much for the love and feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Use "Painter's Putty" for the nail holes. It doesn't shrink. Don't use spackle. (It dries concave)
Roll the Painter's Putty into a quarter size ball, press firmly into the brad hole with your thumb as you run your spackle knife between your thumb and baseboard. This cuts the putty off for a perfect fill. Finnish up with a little touch-up paint. Good luck!
Doesn’t it just get painted over? Sorry I’m new to this.
@@haydenaho9396i think it's hard to paint over a metal nail head. Its hard to cover
Didn't think we'd notice the caulk at 6:43 lol. Well done.
I wish I'd seen this before we started our baseboards... Such a good technique.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
My OCD stays in high gear 😁
Have to make it right, keep it real.
I've always said, "Do it right, or just don't do it!"
✌️
Great video - I'm helping out a friend and your tips make me look like a professional (or at least shows I know what I'm doing). You explained it very simple and concise. Thanks!
Wow!! I just learned a lot about cutting the corners the saw turning it around and coping saw!! Best video
I seriously wish I had seen this before we were more than half done with our downstairs! At least I have the knowledge for the upstairs. Thanks!
No problem! I wish you well on your project! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
I never remember this trick of the trade and have to go back to see but this is the best video out there for me...thks so much!
“When the OCD kicks in” - so relatable 🤣.
🤣
I cope with a Dremel tool using a drum sander bit. Works for me. 👍
Thank you for the tip Jim! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you for saying that I was just wondering if I can use my dremel instead 😂
Nice! I got a drum sander 12 years ago and have been wondering what to do with it. :)
Tried installing my first baseboard without any supervision today. I know I did it wrong so here I am lol. I’m still training at work.
I like to use a small bucket of water to rinse my finger of the excess caulking. I use a wet towel to wipe off any remaining excess caulking after initially using my finger to wipe off caulking because over time, the thin film of caulking spread by the finger over unintended areas tend to darken over time.
For something like this I’d have the wet sponge behind the caulk gun comes out clean and no constantly cleaning ur finger but there’s 1000 ways to skin the cat
Thanks for listing all the tools.👍
Having some ocd is a good thing I wish I had a little more but not too much beautiful job great vid thank you
Great video.. Had a nice honey-do project, putting up 2 murphy beds, which required removal of the existing baseboard. This video gave me all the confidence needed, to cut my baseboards and fit them nicely beside the beds. You even answered my question to paint them prior to install and they came out great!! Thank you kindly!! 😁
Nice video I have watched a lot of video on cutting baseboards this was one of the best I just got it this. Thanks so much
another excellent comprehensive video of yours. well done!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Hi! Could you cope the smaller board and kept the longer board end straight? It would be easier to handle.
Thank you, very helpful and I see we both have a little OCD lol I'm really just a perfectionist. If you're gonna do it, do it right! Always how I felt. That's how you get quality.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Great work buddy. You are a true professional
It would be great if you did a video on how to transition outside corner/angle with two different size baseboards.
Its been a while since I done trim, how do you guys cover the nail marks on white trim? Just touch up paint or that calk?
Good job on the cope. I have remodeled a house and just cannot master the cope. Guess I do not have the patience and it is counterintuitive to my finishing skills.
When you are cutting your cope, another time saver vs. the coping saw is a cordless Dremel type rotary tool after cutting that straight part. 😉
Great video. Crystal clear.
My comment is coming 3 years latter after the video is uploaded . The lesson and your job about corner cut and coping are awesome . Thank you for that . But I was little frustrated that you nailed the baseboards and the nails remains on. I hope in nova days you start using silicon for gluing baseboards to the wall for best and nice looking .
SOOOO COOL😉👍 amzing tip and extremely helpful - Love it! ❤ Thank you!!!✨
Key part. Have a mitersaw. But I learned to cut from the top of bb not while it's laying flat down. And to 45 even on the straight to straight bb.
The OCD kicks in…😂😂
GREAT info! Thank you!
When you run your finger to smooth out caulk, instead of wiping on a wet rag, use that caulk on your finger to fill nail holes. Then use wet rag or sponge to clean any remaining caulk around nail holes.
You should never fill nail holes with caulking, only putty
I’ve been installing for 45 years for multiple interior decorators and designers, ALWAYS turned out perfect filling nail holes with caulk. Matches white baseboards and no need to paint.
If the nail hole is small enough why not just fill it with what you have to work with? I didn't have any of those at the moment and was too anxious to wait so I filled the hole with cooked rice. Just smashed the ruce and filled the hole, wait for it to dry, smooth it out if needed and paint. Looks fine to me. Lol
@@dalerogers4323 people like you have no business filling holes nor painting
Professional painter here. Never use caulk to fill nail holes. Use painters putty and or spackling
A very helpful video 👌👍👏
Thank you 🙏🙏🙏
No matter what you do you still need to use silicone to hide the small gaps cause not all walls are close to being perfect. Plus I think it would take more time with using little saw for the inner corners. For someone doing the whole house, you be there the whole day or two.
100%
Never use silicone if you want to paint. It's lousy caulk except for water areas, tub sink etc
This is the best diy baseboard installation tutorial 👍
Great job 😃
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you for this helpful video, I’m going to install baseboards in my house and I will be doing like you did, thank you
Thank you for watching! Please check out my other baseboard videos on my playlist under “baseboard how to” for more help tips and tricks 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Best video of this yet. Saved! ❤
Excellent post, thank you for sharing.
Its good to do the bottom to. Stops dirt and moisture from getting under
Hi remodeller here. I don’t know why you do the straight cut last. You should cut the mitre last always. And you measure it by butting the straight part on the wall or door casing and pencil the mitre and cut from the pencil line. And if you are doing coping corners. You are going to need a jigsaw or a grinder with a sanding blade. Finish carpentry has more in depth videos about this.
This is a *DIY video
@@whith5184 on the title it says "like a professional". So I'm chiming in what is common practice out in the field.
Great video
You are great teacher
Thank you 🙏🏽 so much! 😊
Thank you. Learned a lot from your video.
Thank you! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Cool vid it’s just that you will have to paint the base afterwards either way. Have the sand the putty and then paint over the caulk and putty.
Thank you! very useful
Glad it was helpful!
Use a small cup with dish soap and warm
Water it helps it come off super easy
You are not playing games. Wow. amazing
Hi nice video! I prepainted (sprayed) my trim in my garage and they look great. How do you go about filling and then painting those holes if you don’t want to mask off and spray again. Any tips or secrets to hiding those dots of paint?
Nail holes should be caulked after the joints, small dab with the gun than wipe with your finger
A+ how to! Thank you!!
Great technique!
Do you also caulk over where the nails/staples went in? I didn’t paint my baseboard before installing😩 I can also see where the nails went in. Can I caulk along the top even though we just painted the walls too? Or will I have repaint by the trim? Sorry for all the questions, I’m new at home diys
Beautiful work!
Excelente video! Claro y preciso .Gracias.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Hi thanks for the video. What type of baseboard is that? Mdf or pvc or wood?
What size gun and nail did you use thank you brother
Love this dude... makes me proud of being Filipino!
Salamat Po! 🙏🏽😊
You should glue the field seams.
Same
What size of gun and nail did you use thank you brother
Absolutely beautiful work. I love your perfection…sub added. Thank you for sharing your expertise in your videos.
Joints should meet on a stud to be nailed correct?
Love the camera cut that hides how long you waited for the glue to hold. LOL
Not long, I’ve used it
Always cut longest pieces first, the cut offs will do the smaller stuff.
Great idea, thanks
I like using screws in the corners and ends to help line it all up correctly. Glue has its purposes, but rarely use it in this use case.
Great video man !!
Thank you, very helpful.
Thank you so much for these tips.
Thank you 🙏🏽
Great video.
Learning so much!
I’m glad I could be of help! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Best video for baseboard trim install!
Do you use caulking under the base boards too?
What about the ti y nail gun holes, do those need culkinh or painting over?
You will need to used wood filler. Here is a product I use : amzn.to/37acule
@@FixThisHouse cheers
Wonderful tips! Thanks!
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Very good video.
Question - when measuring for an inside corner and planning on coping, is the coped board measured to the edge of the board already in place? Or, measured to the wall so the top of the cope would meet the wall? I hope that makes sense!
Scribed boards are measured from the flat face of the base.
Could you do some tips on how to measure?
Why Glue do you recommend for gluing baseboard to the wall ? Also a tool that doesn't require an air hose for nailing it to the wall? Thank you!
step 1 make sur you set up your saws to have a perfect vertical blade rest is good glue is not needed but a level of professionalism that is above the rest
Thank you sir you are superb!
Thank you so much for the love! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Looks good!
Great video
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Very well done - thank you.
The glue is the goods. Thanks for that pointer
Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Quick question: why do coping rather than simply mitre cut both pieces at a 45* angle? Cutting both pieces at a 45 leave you without a gap and takes a whole lot less time . . . I just want to understand why you’d choose to cope over a mitre. I apologize if I missed it during the video.
I have been doing the 45 degree cut on both boards and also want to know why this is an issue.
There are seriously a half dozen good reasons. Professionals cope. If an inside miter was the right way, pros wouldn’t cope. Wall variance, joints opening, and with an inside miter you’d have to get lengths just exactly perfect. Those are a few reasons anyway👍
@@JayRiemenschneider thanks, I will give it a go with coping on my baseboards -- a new skill to learn. I have managed to get lengths just right so far with the 45 degree cuts, but I have done it only on ceiling trim on 3 walls so far.
@@MargaretEldridge-p1c good on you. It's really a simple skill and you'll be proficient quickly. Another important thing is to work counterclockwise around a room so you're always cutting and coping with your good hand, assuming that's your right hand. And as demonstrated here, cut that straight part with the miter saw. You'll have it in no time and it's proper
@@MargaretEldridge-p1c oh and I feel it's even more critical to cope with crown molding
Thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Do u use painter's putty on the nail holes?
Hi! I like to use white wood filler. Here’s a link 👍🏽😊 amzn.to/3GORPR7
how do you repair that 45 degree cut on those 2 pieces on the long wall?
Stay tuned! I’ll make a video on that 👍🏽😊
Good thank you
Great video, thank you
6:43 That cornes has without a doubt been caulked. Nice video though. 😊
Better to use medium or thick CA glue and spray with MDF. MDF likes to absorb moisture quickly
nice job dude
Waooo that a great job thank you so much
Is there a way to install it without the nails being visible? Cuz in my opionion it ruins the decoration..
At 8:50 why was there a gap in the outside part of the miter? It was glued together before it was installed, yes? So it should have been a perfectly tight miter. What happened?
Very well done and very descriptive helps me undwestand your thought process throughout the guide 👍🏼
Why did you cut 45.05 on some on not on the others? Thanks
I learned so much. Thank you for these great tips! You're a lifesaver😊😊
I’m glad 🙂 I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊