We bought this welder a little over a year ago. My husband is a welder but your vid was very,very helpful because we had no way to look at the welder before hand. Bought it for mobile work and running off a larger generator.. He was very impressed with it, he said "Ive ran more welders than i could ever count and its arc is as smooth as any and smoother than almost all of them".. Really welds off 110v which is rare. Not just burns a rod on 110v but really welds! Cant like this machine enough.. Thanks for the Vid!
Thank you so much for putting this review out man! I have been eyeballing this machine for a while but wanted to hear from someone like yourself about the arc dynamics and how well it could run 6010, as well as the lift arc feature. I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to do this. Now I'm off to grab one of these little monsters myself lol
Great review. I just ordered mine today. I ordered it from my local welding supply that I have been dealing with for many years. Can’t wait to get it 👍
I just got one of these. I replaced an Everlast i-Tig 201 with this unit. I also have a Primeweld 225 which I use for the majority of my Tig welding and I like that unit a lot. The Everlast was ok, but the service and support on Everlast machines sucks a hard boiled egg. I'll never get another Everlast. Not that my machine was bad, it was ok, but it didn't weld cellulose rod very well at all, even 6011 was not as good as the Primeweld. The Primeweld will even burn 6010 for me, it burns everything even though there is no stick settings other than amperage. The main reason I got this Miniarc 180i was to have a better stick welder and be able to run all the rods well. This will also function as my backup Tig machine. I bought mine from Welding Suppliess from IOC, I had some reward points and they gave me 100 points for signing up for the newsletter and a $25 discount for ordering over $400, so it cost me $619 in total w/tax. I got 599 reward points for buying the welder, which equates to $11.98, so I applied that to a CK 17FXV torch and that only cost me $88 + tax. IOC has been good to me, shipping is free over $50. I ordered an SSC pedal but it didn't get here yet, I bought it from HTP America. I was just welding today for the first time on this welder, but was curious if you had played with the Hot Start and Arc Force with 6010 at all? I saw in this video you had it set for 5 on the Hot Start and 2 on the Arc Force for 7018, I was using that with 3/32" Lincoln Excalibur 7018 at 85 amps, but it didn't seem hot enough so I bumped it up to 101 amps and it ran pretty nice. I ran some 1/8" Excalibur 7018 at about 122 amps, but I think it could burn better with just a tad more amps, I'll need to check that out. I was running some 1/8" 6010 Lincoln 5p+, I think Hot Start was 2 and Arc Force was 3, but didn't play with it too much. I think I could bump the Arc Force up a tad. This is a really nice little machine, it's built solid, I like it. I didn't use the stinger that came with it yet, I have a 250 amp Lenco stinger I use and a similar Lincoln 300 amp ground, slightly bigger than the Esab supplied. I'm glad this has dinse 35 connectors on it, that's what all my welders have had to date. I have another Martin-Wells stubby stinger I use also. It's a screw type.
@bigtb1717 one thing I would like to know is how many amps can the 180i tig weld on a common 20 amp 110v circuit without going over the 20 amp draw? If you ever have time and can determine that, it would be nice to know. While I consider the 180i to primarily be a stick machine, the tig capabilities are actually not bad.
I believe the “live”start refers to its starting at 30 amps. Normally with scratch or lift arc (or, for that matter, HF start) the current is whatever you set it to, or whatever the foot switch is pressed to. That can result in way too much current going through, and the tungsten welds to the metal, or not enough to get the arc started. This seems to be an amount that ESAB found experimentally to be a good number for most starts.
"Live start" as ESAB calls it or other companies call it "live lift" is basically a scratch start with the gas automatically turning on. The tungsten is always hot or "live" hence the name so be careful where you lay your torch.
I just recently bought a Miller 215 mp But after watching this review now I feel like I need this damn Esab rouge lol For being the size of a lunchbox it seems pretty damn powerful
Good review! I like that you’re welding, chipping, and talking at the same time. Some would have made this into a 20 minute review without adding any more useful information.
Thanks. I'm really liking this little thing. When I get a chance I'll be testing and comparing the amp draw from the wall at a matched output with a few different welders, including the little Juba. So I'm still planning to test the amp draw of that welder in a video. In fact, I could probably just go out to the garage in the next day or two and test the max draw of the Juba and let you know in a reply here, if you are still curious.
@@bigtb1717 I'm definitely still curious about the Juba max draw numbers. Looking forward to the amp draw video on all the machines you test. I appreciate it if you get a chance to post the Juba numbers here. Thanks again :)
Bruce, the Primeweld runs stick surprisingly well for a welder that doesn't purport to run anything except 6013 in the manual. I just replaced an Everlast i-Tig 201 with one of these Miniarc 180is, but I will say that the Primeweld surprised me, it will run 6010, 6011 and 7018 just fine. I think this Miniarc runs stick better, I was able to run 6010, 6011, 7018, 7014 and 6013 on the Miniarc. I'm pretty sure the Primeweld will run all of those as well, as it runs Lincoln 5p+ 6010 just fine. I highly recommend replacing the stinger and ground clamp on the Primeweld. I've never even used mine, although they probably function ok, you can get a new stinger for about $20 and a better ground clamp for about $10. Money well spent. The Miniarc has a Tweco stinger, not bad, but I've been using a Lenco (made in USA).
@@TraditionalToolworks Good to know, I've heard the Prime Weld runs 6010 well although I have not tried it myself. As you stated, I have noticed the stinger and ground clamp are a little lacking in quality but they do work. I don't know how long they will last. Thank you for the info, I do appreciate your insight.
I did use it briefly in one other video, but I ended up selling it after that. I test a lot of welders and I only have so much time, space and money. Unfortunately I have to sometimes make decisions on what to keep and what to sell, and this welder ended up sold.
bigtb1717 hey sorry I missed this. It took some getting used to and the lift arc seems to stick with the pedal plugged in very easily. It does hesitate on ramp up and down compared to what I’m used to with the dynasty. Also the arc doesn’t extinguish when you let the pedal completely off you almost have to snap out still. I’m honestly a bit disappointed.... my advice is safe your money on the pedal and buy a copper spoon with this welder. It’s a great stick welder however
@@MAC_6.7 Thanks for the update. That's a shame that it seems so unpolished with a foot pedal. As you say, still a good stick welder and I still think it's a good value. But it may not be quite the TIG machine that it could have been. Considering how much the foot pedal costs for it, I'd agree with you that it's probably not worth it to add the foot pedal.
Really enjoy these reviews and your videos helped me decide on getting one of those dekopro 160 stick welders (smart panel version) to start learning welding. That said, it's been probably more than 1/2 year and I got a lot of practice and I really enjoy it as a hobbyist. Question is, and i cant think of anyone better to ask, since you've used all of them, if i were looking to upgrade to one of these esab miniarc , would it make sense functionally? When you actually weld is there a quantifiable difference between cheap vs this esab, maybe welding in the overhead or horizontal positions? My limited experience tells me with inverters the implementation of the arc force and hot starts would make a difference. Is this something you would be able to comment on or prove out? Thx
I feel like there is a noticeable difference. To me it seems just a bit easier and nicer to use a name-brand welder. Like the difference between getting comfortable enough to fall asleep in a cot vs. falling asleep in a super comfy bed, lol. Starts are easier, the arc is more stabile when trying to run a little cold or hot for a particular rod for a particular situation, the various settings (like arc force and hot start) seem to make a more meaningful, and appropriate difference. Stuff like that. On some of the cheap welders I've tested, those settings do nothing or not what you'd expect. But I doubt the difference is anything that would outright prevent certain things like overhead or horizontal welding. More like subtle differences in the behavior of the starts and the arc in general that make it feel nicer to use. The one exception being 6010 welding. Expensive or cheap, some can do it and some just cannot. But other than that, if a cheap welder works, it's probably not holding you back all that much. Put another way, I bet a professional welder with more experience than me could do more with your Dekopro than I could with a Miller. But that doesn't mean I don't prefer using a Miller, lol. As for proving out whether I can really tell a difference or if it's psychological, it's funny you mention that. I actually have a plan for a video and thought I had everything to make it happen, but the adapters I ordered won't work, so I'm waiting on a new solution. My idea is to take three different stick welders of massively different prices and do a blind test with them. I want to run a bead with each, but without knowing which one is which to see if I can actually tell the difference. I'm excited to find out and am totally willing to eat crow if I find out I can't even tell the difference, lol. I think it will be a fun test.
@@bigtb1717 that's going to be some video, but based on your comments, I can say I dont think you will have a difference, but what was the process to get each weld to look the same? Also maybe choose a random rod and dont look at its designation. Set all machines to some default and see how easy or hard it is to fine tune it. Of course on a challenging position, I think that can mean a lot to some. Stick welder is kinda like a road race sports car, it's not all about speed, its about its potential and whether its responsive enough to give the operator a chance to achieve that potential.
I assume you mean the Lincoln Sprinter 180? They are pretty similar machines in a lot of ways. The Sprinter has a few extra TIG features out of the box (high frequency start, built-in gas solenoid). The ESAB has a bit more output on 120V. Both perform well and have 3 year warranties. I haven't put enough use and abuse on either one to say which one would hold up better, long term. Personally, I lean very slightly toward the Sprinter, overall, because of the extra TIG features. But if you primarily want a stick machine and may need to rely on 120V power in some situations, the ESAB may be a better option.
Thank you! You are my new best friend as I have been trying to find out more about this little guy. Want one for tinkering and am caught between super el cheapo / terrible warranty and too expensive for a hobby welder. Two quick questions. Looks like you need a torch with a valve correct? And do you think there’s anything less expensive that comes close to build quality? I do want to be able to run 6010 or 6011 but I don’t need pedal capable. Thank you again for this and the other videos. You do a nice job of calmly explaining the good the bad and other issues to be aware of.
Thanks, I'm glad I could help. Yes, you would need a torch with a valve to do TIG welding with this welder. Compared to anything at or below this price that I've personally used, this welder has much better build quality and better included accessories. The older 161 LTS is nice, but it's still around $500. Everlast has some welders that are a step above the Amico type stuff, but in my experience, they don't match the ESAB. At least, the less expensive Everlast units don't. Of the cheaper welders I've used, the 240v and dual voltage ones tend to run fairly well on 240V. The 120V only and dual voltage machines don't tend to run as well on 120V as the ESAB does, which runs just as well on 120V as it does on 240V, just with a lower output. If you are okay with a questionable warranty and a cheap build, I've found that the super cheap machines work well enough on 240V and are usable on 120V, if not quite as smooth or easy starting. A lot of people tend to have good luck with them. If you get one I'd recommend getting it on Amazon or other seller that has a good return policy, then run it hard as soon as you get it so you can find any issues early and return to Amazon if it fails. For me, I would choose the ESAB over the cheaper machines for a couple reasons. The main reason is that I bought it from my local welding supply shop and I can take it back there if I have issues during the warranty period as they authorized retailers and warranty service for a few big brands. Also, it does have better build quality and better accessories.
That’s kind of where I’ve ended up as well. There’s so many of these “toasters” out there that it’s nice to see some thoughtful comps like your Miller and Amico vid. Really appreciate you for taking the time to reply. If I pull the trigger I will try to make a point to let you know my thoughts.
@@rjohnson5120 I'll second that. I have an Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT, which I got when I was fairly green to TIG welding and didn't realize that there is such a major difference in the arc dynamic between the ESAB and other good quality machines and the Everlast machines. What I've found is that 210 amps isn't always the same as 210 amps, lift-start isn't always lift-start, a stick welding arc isn't always a stick welding arc, and so on and so forth. The mistake I made was looking at the spec's as my base of comparison between machines and not realizing that you can't really tell how good or bad a machine is just from looking at it's numbers and manufacturer claims. You can get some basic info that way, just don't think it ends there, and know that the cheaper machines will always make claims that are misleading. The most important information comes from welding with it or finding someone you can trust who is knowledgeable enough to notice things like what you saw in this video.
As for a foot pedal/switch it does have to be compatible with this welder (I believe the Rebel series use the same foot pedal style). There are pedals made by different companies, but you just have to be sure it is compatible with this welder. The torch can be anything. The welder uses Dinse 35 connectors on the output, which is a very common standard. Do you have a foot pedal now from a different welder?
Thanks for the reply! I don't have a tig setup at the moment, but ESABs own equipment seems to be more costly than some of the others I can find in my area and the tig torch they recommend has a MASSIVE handle that looks uncomfortable, although it has a button built in
Yeah, I don't like that bulky style of torch either. I prefer a simple CK9 or something like that. My favorite torch is the Weld-Tec Stubby torches. I have a 17 and an 9 size and I love them. The CK flex head torches can sometimes get into an angle that would otherwise be tough, but for 99% of the welding I do I still prefer the Weld-Tech stubby. They are my favorite torches by a long way. I can strap a switch to them if I need to, but I prefer a foot pedal to a torch switch if I can use one. I've done welding laying on the floor under a piece of equipment, so a torch switch made sense there, but otherwise, I prefer a pedal all the way. I haven't seen any pedals for the ESAB that are super cheap. SSC makes one that is decent quality for under $200, but that's still a chunk of change. I haven't been able to justify getting one for the Rogue because it's not my main TIG machine.
Something that just occurred to me is that you will need a valve on the torch since there is no solenoid inside the welder. So keep that in mind when looking at torches.
I am a recent owner of this machine and I am learning how. So far this is a very smooth machine. I am interested in the doing some DC tig aluminum welds with it utlizing a foot pedal. Have you tried this yet?
I haven't tried a foot pedal yet, but just be aware that a lift start DC machine is not really a good aluminum TIG. Aluminum TIG is generally done with AC output, not DC. Technically, you can TIG aluminum with DC, but it requires Helium shielding gas and is a bit more difficult and best for thick material due to the high heat involved.
@@alexadams4132 Like I said, you can do aluminum TIG with DC, but it's not quite as easy because you don't have the AC to break up the oxide layer. Generally 100% helium is used as shielding for DC aluminum which makes the arc hot enough to punch through the oxide layer, but it makes it more difficult to do very thin stuff. If you already have the welder, by all means, give it a go. I simply wanted to give you a heads up in case you were planning to buy this welder specifically for aluminum.
Hello and thanks for an excellent review. My question is how would this welder compare to the Fronius Transpocket 180. Its almost three times the cost and almost similar specs.. Would there be a huge difference in what the machines offer or is it ultimately operators skill level dependent.
Operator skill and experience level is going to be a huge factor with just about any welder. I haven't used the Transpocket 180, though I have considered getting one to test out. The stick package is a little over twice the price of the Rogue and it has a bit better duty cycle. The TIG package has a built-in gas solenoid and comes with TIG accessories and it is about three times the price of the Rogue. I've heard the Fronius welders are very nice. I imagine the Fronius is a nicer machine. But other than the duty cycle I bet the difference is use is minimal.
I just remembered, the Fronius supposedly has a dust filter for the fan intake, which is pretty cool and I don't know why more welders don't have that. With some of the Miller welders, the air path is separated from the electronics, so you can just blow the dust out and it doesn't collect on the boards and such, so that's nice too, but so many welders just pull all the shop dust across the boards and everything. The Fronius is definitely on my list to try out some day.
I would say a 12 gauge for most situations. For a really long cord, 10 gauge would be better. It will depend on how long the cord is and how high you plan to run the welder.
Reply thanks, I ran a 25 ft 12 gauge today and it ran perfectly. That was the first time using the 180i. My furthest long is 75 ft. I’m using to work on a concrete plant.
@@bigtb1717I made a note to ask when you were mentioned the “14 gauge power cord”. That’s tiny and limited to 15 amps in a house. I think you mentioned up to a 70 amp power draw when you were reviewing various stick settings. I just looked it up and 8 gauge copper has an ampacity of 70 amps in free air and 50 amps in a 3 wire cable. What am I missing?
@@noellwilson1273I think only the most ridiculously rated machines will draw anywhere near 70 amps. Power cords are often smaller because they are relatively short. Length plays a large role in total voltage drop of a given wire gauge at a given amperage. Also, welders typically have a certain duty cycle they are rated for, and smaller cables are often rated at far higher amperages at lower duty cycles. So welders can often get away with smaller gauge power cords. Some generic welders (especially stock welders) will often pull huge amperage from the wall while also listing 60-80% duty cycles. Very likely, the power cords alone would make them fail things like UL or CSA certification.
Esab think they own cigweld wich also have a 180i that also have 10'/3m leads One thing I don't get is why new welders grand clamp and electrode holder are the same length I own a old CIG welder and they all came with 10'/3m ground lead 13'/3.9m electrode lead One thing I can tell you is having that extra bit of length on the electrode lead makes things so much easier move around the work It makes no sense to me why both leads are the same length It just makes me think you will end up pulling the welding inverter around with the electrode lead Having slightly longer electrode lead and shorter grand lead just seems like so much more of a better idea to me at least
It is easy to disassemble, if that's what you are looking to do. I never cleaned out the machine during the time I had it, but it's only a handful of screws and the outer case comes off. At that point a little carful blowing with compressed air would likely clean the dust out.
@@bigtb1717 OK I tried to undo the screws but I was not able to get the cover off it seemed to he wedged in between the end cap covers. I give it another go.
It has been a while since I took it apart. On some machines the cover is slipped slightly under the covers. I can't remember for sure, but I may have had to remove the front or rear plastic so I could slip the metal case off. I don't have it any more to be able to look at it, but I have another video where I took it apart. That might show something helpful.
Which torch is "better" or "best" will depend a lot on personal preference. I personally prefer a smaller torch. My personal, favorite torch I've used is a Weld-Tec stubby torch, either in a 17 or 9 size. Some are probably more comfortable with a bit longer torch, and depending on what you are doing (walking the cup, etc.) you may want a longer torch. If you are literally just starting out, a standard, 17 size torch with a super-flex cable is a good place to start. It should work fine for a lot of situations and later down the line you'll get a feel for if you'd like something smaller, larger, flex head, etc. In terms if initial experience, are you just looking for general instruction, or do you have specific questions?
I was thinking of the ET 200, which has more TIG functions. I didn't realize they made an ES 200 now. For the ES 200i you will need a torch with a valve to turn the gas on and off manually, because the ES 200i doesn't have a built-in gas solenoid. However, the welder does have lift-start TIG welding which works just fine. You would need to buy a regulator/flowmeter, a bottle/tank of 100% argon and get a TIG torch with a valve and the right connector to connect to your welder and the regulator (CK SL2-35 works for most 9 and 17 size torches). Then you will need torch consumables (tungsten, collets, gas cups, etc.) and some filler rod.
bigtb1717 I may pick one up. I like that it’s pedal capable unlike my MINIARC 161LTS. Sucks snapping out and having to use copper or aluminum to swap the arc and maintain shielding
On my machine they are absolutely steel. They have a textured finish, but I have taken the welder apart and confirmed 100% that they are steel. Besides, a magnet sticks to them.
@@bigtb1717 are you in the states? Outside the US the model is called a 180 Pro CE and has different materials. That’s all i can think of. The normal model does still have metal behind the thin yellow fiberglass mat (which is used for side impact resistance). The standard ES 180i is a lower power/quality version outside the US (not dual voltage and only 170 amps max), and the Pro is equal to the US standard version. Both look the same, but are marked different under the knob. I have a picture of the mat with a tear in it. It’s very thin and rubber like and just slapped on the sides.
@@LextechLighting Yeah, I'm in the US. I disassembled the welder to compare the internals in a review video of the Fronius Transpocket 180. The yellow part of the case is a single piece of steel that wraps around the welder. It has a textured yellow finish, but it is very much a standard, sheet-metal case. Honestly, I have absolutely no problem with it being metal. I just thought it was strange that the ads claimed fiberglass. As you say, maybe in other markets it's fiberglass.
Yeah, if the Yeswelder DP200 has power factor correction, that would be nice. We'll see. Generator friendly generally just means that it is tolerant of variable input voltage. Small generators often have "dirty" power, and fluctuate voltage and frequency as load changes. Calling a welder "generator friendly" normally just means the welder will actively compensate for these input fluctuations so the welding output currently won't be overly affected.
That what I'm hoping so I don't have to buy another generator that would be an inverter generator running an inverter welder, seems redundant. I see they claim this runs goodnoff of 314 feet of 12ga wire. Needing something lighter than a buzz box and a generator to load in ths side by side to repair the corrals. Most would be reachable with just extension cords. I used to pick up the generator and buzz box, but they keep getting heavier and heavier. I talked to Welsco today he said theirs are about $850, but he said that they don't like 6011. He said a big maintenance company bought several so they could use them in factories and not trip breakers. I have been looking hard at the Everlast 161STH at half the price but doesn't seem to have much PF correction by the power it draws. It would be nice all welders had PF correction but it is probably only important if you are mobile or on a generator.
I called ESAB tech support before I bought it .They said it is indeed generator friendly. Make sure your AVR holds voltage. Mine was 119-120 loaded. It runs 6011 fine. It ran three 1/8" at 110A on 120v. I switched to the everlast 211 at 100A (max for it on 120V) and it tripped the breaker ( I have a 4' long circuit on a 30A breaker) after one rod. So these welders with PF correction are great if you are going portable.
Sorry, this review was mainly focused on the stick welding performance. I did briefly test the lift start TIG and it works well. Smooth arc and nice lift start. But I didn't get any arc shots or anything. I originally thought I would get a foot pedal for it and do a separate video focused on TIG welding, but I eventually moved on to other things. I apologize if the TIG welding aspect of this welder is what you were looking for.
We bought this welder a little over a year ago. My husband is a welder but your vid was very,very helpful because we had no way to look at the welder before hand. Bought it for mobile work and running off a larger generator.. He was very impressed with it, he said "Ive ran more welders than i could ever count and its arc is as smooth as any and smoother than almost all of them".. Really welds off 110v which is rare. Not just burns a rod on 110v but really welds! Cant like this machine enough.. Thanks for the Vid!
I'm glad I was able to help! Take care.
Thank you for a straight forward no bullshit review.
Thank you so much for putting this review out man! I have been eyeballing this machine for a while but wanted to hear from someone like yourself about the arc dynamics and how well it could run 6010, as well as the lift arc feature. I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to do this. Now I'm off to grab one of these little monsters myself lol
Great review. I just ordered mine today. I ordered it from my local welding supply that I have been dealing with for many years. Can’t wait to get it 👍
I just got one of these. I replaced an Everlast i-Tig 201 with this unit. I also have a Primeweld 225 which I use for the majority of my Tig welding and I like that unit a lot. The Everlast was ok, but the service and support on Everlast machines sucks a hard boiled egg. I'll never get another Everlast. Not that my machine was bad, it was ok, but it didn't weld cellulose rod very well at all, even 6011 was not as good as the Primeweld. The Primeweld will even burn 6010 for me, it burns everything even though there is no stick settings other than amperage. The main reason I got this Miniarc 180i was to have a better stick welder and be able to run all the rods well. This will also function as my backup Tig machine.
I bought mine from Welding Suppliess from IOC, I had some reward points and they gave me 100 points for signing up for the newsletter and a $25 discount for ordering over $400, so it cost me $619 in total w/tax. I got 599 reward points for buying the welder, which equates to $11.98, so I applied that to a CK 17FXV torch and that only cost me $88 + tax. IOC has been good to me, shipping is free over $50. I ordered an SSC pedal but it didn't get here yet, I bought it from HTP America.
I was just welding today for the first time on this welder, but was curious if you had played with the Hot Start and Arc Force with 6010 at all? I saw in this video you had it set for 5 on the Hot Start and 2 on the Arc Force for 7018, I was using that with 3/32" Lincoln Excalibur 7018 at 85 amps, but it didn't seem hot enough so I bumped it up to 101 amps and it ran pretty nice. I ran some 1/8" Excalibur 7018 at about 122 amps, but I think it could burn better with just a tad more amps, I'll need to check that out.
I was running some 1/8" 6010 Lincoln 5p+, I think Hot Start was 2 and Arc Force was 3, but didn't play with it too much. I think I could bump the Arc Force up a tad.
This is a really nice little machine, it's built solid, I like it. I didn't use the stinger that came with it yet, I have a 250 amp Lenco stinger I use and a similar Lincoln 300 amp ground, slightly bigger than the Esab supplied. I'm glad this has dinse 35 connectors on it, that's what all my welders have had to date. I have another Martin-Wells stubby stinger I use also. It's a screw type.
@bigtb1717 one thing I would like to know is how many amps can the 180i tig weld on a common 20 amp 110v circuit without going over the 20 amp draw? If you ever have time and can determine that, it would be nice to know. While I consider the 180i to primarily be a stick machine, the tig capabilities are actually not bad.
I believe the “live”start refers to its starting at 30 amps. Normally with scratch or lift arc (or, for that matter, HF start) the current is whatever you set it to, or whatever the foot switch is pressed to. That can result in way too much current going through, and the tungsten welds to the metal, or not enough to get the arc started. This seems to be an amount that ESAB found experimentally to be a good number for most starts.
"Live start" as ESAB calls it or other companies call it "live lift" is basically a scratch start with the gas automatically turning on. The tungsten is always hot or "live" hence the name so be careful where you lay your torch.
@@rileyneufeld7001 I’ve never noticed that happening.
I just recently bought a Miller 215 mp But after watching this review now I feel like I need this damn Esab rouge lol For being the size of a lunchbox it seems pretty damn powerful
Good review! I like that you’re welding, chipping, and talking at the same time. Some would have made this into a 20 minute review without adding any more useful information.
Nice welder with some nice features. Good looking beads as well! 👍
Thanks. I'm really liking this little thing.
When I get a chance I'll be testing and comparing the amp draw from the wall at a matched output with a few different welders, including the little Juba. So I'm still planning to test the amp draw of that welder in a video. In fact, I could probably just go out to the garage in the next day or two and test the max draw of the Juba and let you know in a reply here, if you are still curious.
@@bigtb1717 I'm definitely still curious about the Juba max draw numbers. Looking forward to the amp draw video on all the machines you test. I appreciate it if you get a chance to post the Juba numbers here. Thanks again :)
Bruce, the Primeweld runs stick surprisingly well for a welder that doesn't purport to run anything except 6013 in the manual. I just replaced an Everlast i-Tig 201 with one of these Miniarc 180is, but I will say that the Primeweld surprised me, it will run 6010, 6011 and 7018 just fine. I think this Miniarc runs stick better, I was able to run 6010, 6011, 7018, 7014 and 6013 on the Miniarc. I'm pretty sure the Primeweld will run all of those as well, as it runs Lincoln 5p+ 6010 just fine. I highly recommend replacing the stinger and ground clamp on the Primeweld. I've never even used mine, although they probably function ok, you can get a new stinger for about $20 and a better ground clamp for about $10. Money well spent. The Miniarc has a Tweco stinger, not bad, but I've been using a Lenco (made in USA).
@@TraditionalToolworks Good to know, I've heard the Prime Weld runs 6010 well although I have not tried it myself. As you stated, I have noticed the stinger and ground clamp are a little lacking in quality but they do work. I don't know how long they will last. Thank you for the info, I do appreciate your insight.
Finally a small machine that runs 6010 good for real most buzz boxes can't drives me crazy
Thanks for a great review. I've made my choice now
You should try the dial amperage remote for this machine. It is amazing.
I have this machine and I paid $700 for it three or four years ago, it's up to $1,000 now. Really nice machine though, very high quality built
I wonder why they doesn't do new videos with the 180 I esab rogue
I did use it briefly in one other video, but I ended up selling it after that. I test a lot of welders and I only have so much time, space and money. Unfortunately I have to sometimes make decisions on what to keep and what to sell, and this welder ended up sold.
Just picked mine up with a pedal and remote switch torch. Firing up on some square tubing this morning :)
Cool. I'm still thinking about getting a foot pedal for it and doing a TIG review of it.
bigtb1717 May as well, get the versatility out of it!
How did it work for you with the foot pedal?
bigtb1717 hey sorry I missed this. It took some getting used to and the lift arc seems to stick with the pedal plugged in very easily. It does hesitate on ramp up and down compared to what I’m used to with the dynasty. Also the arc doesn’t extinguish when you let the pedal completely off you almost have to snap out still. I’m honestly a bit disappointed.... my advice is safe your money on the pedal and buy a copper spoon with this welder. It’s a great stick welder however
@@MAC_6.7 Thanks for the update. That's a shame that it seems so unpolished with a foot pedal. As you say, still a good stick welder and I still think it's a good value. But it may not be quite the TIG machine that it could have been. Considering how much the foot pedal costs for it, I'd agree with you that it's probably not worth it to add the foot pedal.
Really enjoy these reviews and your videos helped me decide on getting one of those dekopro 160 stick welders (smart panel version) to start learning welding. That said, it's been probably more than 1/2 year and I got a lot of practice and I really enjoy it as a hobbyist. Question is, and i cant think of anyone better to ask, since you've used all of them, if i were looking to upgrade to one of these esab miniarc , would it make sense functionally? When you actually weld is there a quantifiable difference between cheap vs this esab, maybe welding in the overhead or horizontal positions? My limited experience tells me with inverters the implementation of the arc force and hot starts would make a difference. Is this something you would be able to comment on or prove out? Thx
I feel like there is a noticeable difference. To me it seems just a bit easier and nicer to use a name-brand welder. Like the difference between getting comfortable enough to fall asleep in a cot vs. falling asleep in a super comfy bed, lol. Starts are easier, the arc is more stabile when trying to run a little cold or hot for a particular rod for a particular situation, the various settings (like arc force and hot start) seem to make a more meaningful, and appropriate difference. Stuff like that. On some of the cheap welders I've tested, those settings do nothing or not what you'd expect.
But I doubt the difference is anything that would outright prevent certain things like overhead or horizontal welding. More like subtle differences in the behavior of the starts and the arc in general that make it feel nicer to use. The one exception being 6010 welding. Expensive or cheap, some can do it and some just cannot. But other than that, if a cheap welder works, it's probably not holding you back all that much.
Put another way, I bet a professional welder with more experience than me could do more with your Dekopro than I could with a Miller. But that doesn't mean I don't prefer using a Miller, lol.
As for proving out whether I can really tell a difference or if it's psychological, it's funny you mention that. I actually have a plan for a video and thought I had everything to make it happen, but the adapters I ordered won't work, so I'm waiting on a new solution. My idea is to take three different stick welders of massively different prices and do a blind test with them. I want to run a bead with each, but without knowing which one is which to see if I can actually tell the difference. I'm excited to find out and am totally willing to eat crow if I find out I can't even tell the difference, lol. I think it will be a fun test.
@@bigtb1717 that's going to be some video, but based on your comments, I can say I dont think you will have a difference, but what was the process to get each weld to look the same? Also maybe choose a random rod and dont look at its designation. Set all machines to some default and see how easy or hard it is to fine tune it. Of course on a challenging position, I think that can mean a lot to some. Stick welder is kinda like a road race sports car, it's not all about speed, its about its potential and whether its responsive enough to give the operator a chance to achieve that potential.
Glass fibre reinforced plastic maybe!? 🤔
When comparing the ESAB 180 and the Lincoln Spacemaster 180, which one do you think is better?
I assume you mean the Lincoln Sprinter 180? They are pretty similar machines in a lot of ways. The Sprinter has a few extra TIG features out of the box (high frequency start, built-in gas solenoid). The ESAB has a bit more output on 120V.
Both perform well and have 3 year warranties. I haven't put enough use and abuse on either one to say which one would hold up better, long term.
Personally, I lean very slightly toward the Sprinter, overall, because of the extra TIG features. But if you primarily want a stick machine and may need to rely on 120V power in some situations, the ESAB may be a better option.
Thank you! You are my new best friend as I have been trying to find out more about this little guy. Want one for tinkering and am caught between super el cheapo / terrible warranty and too expensive for a hobby welder. Two quick questions. Looks like you need a torch with a valve correct? And do you think there’s anything less expensive that comes close to build quality? I do want to be able to run 6010 or 6011 but I don’t need pedal capable.
Thank you again for this and the other videos. You do a nice job of calmly explaining the good the bad and other issues to be aware of.
Thanks, I'm glad I could help. Yes, you would need a torch with a valve to do TIG welding with this welder. Compared to anything at or below this price that I've personally used, this welder has much better build quality and better included accessories. The older 161 LTS is nice, but it's still around $500. Everlast has some welders that are a step above the Amico type stuff, but in my experience, they don't match the ESAB. At least, the less expensive Everlast units don't.
Of the cheaper welders I've used, the 240v and dual voltage ones tend to run fairly well on 240V. The 120V only and dual voltage machines don't tend to run as well on 120V as the ESAB does, which runs just as well on 120V as it does on 240V, just with a lower output. If you are okay with a questionable warranty and a cheap build, I've found that the super cheap machines work well enough on 240V and are usable on 120V, if not quite as smooth or easy starting. A lot of people tend to have good luck with them. If you get one I'd recommend getting it on Amazon or other seller that has a good return policy, then run it hard as soon as you get it so you can find any issues early and return to Amazon if it fails.
For me, I would choose the ESAB over the cheaper machines for a couple reasons. The main reason is that I bought it from my local welding supply shop and I can take it back there if I have issues during the warranty period as they authorized retailers and warranty service for a few big brands. Also, it does have better build quality and better accessories.
That’s kind of where I’ve ended up as well. There’s so many of these “toasters” out there that it’s nice to see some thoughtful comps like your Miller and Amico vid. Really appreciate you for taking the time to reply. If I pull the trigger I will try to make a point to let you know my thoughts.
@@rjohnson5120 I'll second that. I have an Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT, which I got when I was fairly green to TIG welding and didn't realize that there is such a major difference in the arc dynamic between the ESAB and other good quality machines and the Everlast machines. What I've found is that 210 amps isn't always the same as 210 amps, lift-start isn't always lift-start, a stick welding arc isn't always a stick welding arc, and so on and so forth. The mistake I made was looking at the spec's as my base of comparison between machines and not realizing that you can't really tell how good or bad a machine is just from looking at it's numbers and manufacturer claims. You can get some basic info that way, just don't think it ends there, and know that the cheaper machines will always make claims that are misleading. The most important information comes from welding with it or finding someone you can trust who is knowledgeable enough to notice things like what you saw in this video.
Hey nice man, you did the review! Can't wait to get home and watch it. I have absolutely been loving this machine!
(at work now..)
Very thorough review! One question, do you need to use ESABs own torch & footswitch rather than hooking up your existing equipment?
As for a foot pedal/switch it does have to be compatible with this welder (I believe the Rebel series use the same foot pedal style). There are pedals made by different companies, but you just have to be sure it is compatible with this welder. The torch can be anything. The welder uses Dinse 35 connectors on the output, which is a very common standard.
Do you have a foot pedal now from a different welder?
Thanks for the reply! I don't have a tig setup at the moment, but ESABs own equipment seems to be more costly than some of the others I can find in my area and the tig torch they recommend has a MASSIVE handle that looks uncomfortable, although it has a button built in
Yeah, I don't like that bulky style of torch either. I prefer a simple CK9 or something like that. My favorite torch is the Weld-Tec Stubby torches. I have a 17 and an 9 size and I love them. The CK flex head torches can sometimes get into an angle that would otherwise be tough, but for 99% of the welding I do I still prefer the Weld-Tech stubby. They are my favorite torches by a long way. I can strap a switch to them if I need to, but I prefer a foot pedal to a torch switch if I can use one. I've done welding laying on the floor under a piece of equipment, so a torch switch made sense there, but otherwise, I prefer a pedal all the way. I haven't seen any pedals for the ESAB that are super cheap. SSC makes one that is decent quality for under $200, but that's still a chunk of change. I haven't been able to justify getting one for the Rogue because it's not my main TIG machine.
Something that just occurred to me is that you will need a valve on the torch since there is no solenoid inside the welder. So keep that in mind when looking at torches.
@@bigtb1717 Thanks for the advice. Never used a pedal myself, only a button, so this should be a fun learning experience lol
I am a recent owner of this machine and I am learning how. So far this is a very smooth machine. I am interested in the doing some DC tig aluminum welds with it utlizing a foot pedal. Have you tried this yet?
I haven't tried a foot pedal yet, but just be aware that a lift start DC machine is not really a good aluminum TIG. Aluminum TIG is generally done with AC output, not DC. Technically, you can TIG aluminum with DC, but it requires Helium shielding gas and is a bit more difficult and best for thick material due to the high heat involved.
@@bigtb1717 I see people doing dc tig aluminum all the time on here.
@@alexadams4132 Like I said, you can do aluminum TIG with DC, but it's not quite as easy because you don't have the AC to break up the oxide layer. Generally 100% helium is used as shielding for DC aluminum which makes the arc hot enough to punch through the oxide layer, but it makes it more difficult to do very thin stuff. If you already have the welder, by all means, give it a go. I simply wanted to give you a heads up in case you were planning to buy this welder specifically for aluminum.
@@bigtb1717 buying dc tig welder is useless.Mig for steel ac TIG for aluminium.For construction outside welding MMA
@@bobanppvc what about stainless you but
Hello and thanks for an excellent review. My question is how would this welder compare to the Fronius Transpocket 180. Its almost three times the cost and almost similar specs.. Would there be a huge difference in what the machines offer or is it ultimately operators skill level dependent.
Operator skill and experience level is going to be a huge factor with just about any welder. I haven't used the Transpocket 180, though I have considered getting one to test out. The stick package is a little over twice the price of the Rogue and it has a bit better duty cycle. The TIG package has a built-in gas solenoid and comes with TIG accessories and it is about three times the price of the Rogue. I've heard the Fronius welders are very nice. I imagine the Fronius is a nicer machine. But other than the duty cycle I bet the difference is use is minimal.
I just remembered, the Fronius supposedly has a dust filter for the fan intake, which is pretty cool and I don't know why more welders don't have that. With some of the Miller welders, the air path is separated from the electronics, so you can just blow the dust out and it doesn't collect on the boards and such, so that's nice too, but so many welders just pull all the shop dust across the boards and everything. The Fronius is definitely on my list to try out some day.
Thank you for your reply. Would like to see a comparative review of both machines from you some day. Its a difficult decision.
Aarish Singh the fronius also has pulse stick welding capabilities too. Esab is nice but them two can’t be in comparison imo
Aarish Singh also the fronius is fan on demand. When it is on it’s still quite. I have 2 fronius machines and love them
What size breaker/ wire for 220-240v?
In my garage I have a 40 amp breaker feeding the receptacle with 8AWG wire.
great video. Thank you
What gauge size extension cord do you recommend?
I would say a 12 gauge for most situations. For a really long cord, 10 gauge would be better. It will depend on how long the cord is and how high you plan to run the welder.
Reply thanks, I ran a 25 ft 12 gauge today and it ran perfectly. That was the first time using the 180i. My furthest long is 75 ft. I’m using to work on a concrete plant.
@@bigtb1717I made a note to ask when you were mentioned the “14 gauge power cord”. That’s tiny and limited to 15 amps in a house. I think you mentioned up to a 70 amp power draw when you were reviewing various stick settings. I just looked it up and 8 gauge copper has an ampacity of 70 amps in free air and 50 amps in a 3 wire cable.
What am I missing?
@@noellwilson1273I think only the most ridiculously rated machines will draw anywhere near 70 amps. Power cords are often smaller because they are relatively short. Length plays a large role in total voltage drop of a given wire gauge at a given amperage. Also, welders typically have a certain duty cycle they are rated for, and smaller cables are often rated at far higher amperages at lower duty cycles. So welders can often get away with smaller gauge power cords. Some generic welders (especially stock welders) will often pull huge amperage from the wall while also listing 60-80% duty cycles. Very likely, the power cords alone would make them fail things like UL or CSA certification.
@@noellwilson1273Also, maybe I misspoke, but this machine doesn't pull anywhere near 70 amps from the wall at any setting.
Esab think they own cigweld wich also have a 180i that also have 10'/3m leads
One thing I don't get is why new welders grand clamp and electrode holder are the same length
I own a old CIG welder and they all came with 10'/3m ground lead 13'/3.9m electrode lead
One thing I can tell you is having that extra bit of length on the electrode lead makes things
so much easier move around the work
It makes no sense to me why both leads are the same length
It just makes me think you will end up pulling the welding inverter around with the electrode lead
Having slightly longer electrode lead and shorter grand lead just seems like so much more of a better idea to me at least
Have you been able to clean the inside of the machine?
It is easy to disassemble, if that's what you are looking to do. I never cleaned out the machine during the time I had it, but it's only a handful of screws and the outer case comes off. At that point a little carful blowing with compressed air would likely clean the dust out.
@@bigtb1717 OK I tried to undo the screws but I was not able to get the cover off it seemed to he wedged in between the end cap covers. I give it another go.
It has been a while since I took it apart. On some machines the cover is slipped slightly under the covers. I can't remember for sure, but I may have had to remove the front or rear plastic so I could slip the metal case off. I don't have it any more to be able to look at it, but I have another video where I took it apart. That might show something helpful.
Can this device weld cellulose electrodes?
@@NesoNesovic Yes, very well.
Also why the 180 I esab rogue fan so noisy
i have rogue es 200...can i get some initial experience on tig. ??? and which torch is better to buy ??? thanks in advance.
Which torch is "better" or "best" will depend a lot on personal preference. I personally prefer a smaller torch. My personal, favorite torch I've used is a Weld-Tec stubby torch, either in a 17 or 9 size. Some are probably more comfortable with a bit longer torch, and depending on what you are doing (walking the cup, etc.) you may want a longer torch. If you are literally just starting out, a standard, 17 size torch with a super-flex cable is a good place to start. It should work fine for a lot of situations and later down the line you'll get a feel for if you'd like something smaller, larger, flex head, etc.
In terms if initial experience, are you just looking for general instruction, or do you have specific questions?
I just want to know if there will be any problems with the tig connection on the esab rogue es200i pro? I want to learn how to work with tig welding.
can i use this machine for tig ?
I was thinking of the ET 200, which has more TIG functions. I didn't realize they made an ES 200 now. For the ES 200i you will need a torch with a valve to turn the gas on and off manually, because the ES 200i doesn't have a built-in gas solenoid. However, the welder does have lift-start TIG welding which works just fine.
You would need to buy a regulator/flowmeter, a bottle/tank of 100% argon and get a TIG torch with a valve and the right connector to connect to your welder and the regulator (CK SL2-35 works for most 9 and 17 size torches). Then you will need torch consumables (tungsten, collets, gas cups, etc.) and some filler rod.
@@bigtb1717 Thanks.
Should do a thorough tig review of the machine when you can :)
I'd definitely like to get a foot pedal for it and do some TIG welding with it.
bigtb1717 I may pick one up. I like that it’s pedal capable unlike my MINIARC 161LTS. Sucks snapping out and having to use copper or aluminum to swap the arc and maintain shielding
@@MAC_6.7 pedal is for arc initiation.........only
@@LextechLighting uhhhh no
Fantastic 👍
The yellow sides are fiberglass
On my machine they are absolutely steel. They have a textured finish, but I have taken the welder apart and confirmed 100% that they are steel. Besides, a magnet sticks to them.
@@bigtb1717 are you in the states? Outside the US the model is called a 180 Pro CE and has different materials. That’s all i can think of. The normal model does still have metal behind the thin yellow fiberglass mat (which is used for side impact resistance). The standard ES 180i is a lower power/quality version outside the US (not dual voltage and only 170 amps max), and the Pro is equal to the US standard version. Both look the same, but are marked different under the knob. I have a picture of the mat with a tear in it. It’s very thin and rubber like and just slapped on the sides.
@@LextechLighting Yeah, I'm in the US. I disassembled the welder to compare the internals in a review video of the Fronius Transpocket 180. The yellow part of the case is a single piece of steel that wraps around the welder. It has a textured yellow finish, but it is very much a standard, sheet-metal case. Honestly, I have absolutely no problem with it being metal. I just thought it was strange that the ads claimed fiberglass. As you say, maybe in other markets it's fiberglass.
At less than £300 in the UK it seems a little too cheap and quite poor duty cycles, but seams quite a good machine for the home user!
If you missed out on a £300 deal on the 180 then you are crazy! I got mine at equivalent £446 a couple of weeks ago (in Norway). Still worth it.
6011?
It runs 6010 and 6011 very well.
What do they mean generator friendly?
Funny Yes welder claims PF of 1 on their new welder... So I guess its better!
Yeah, if the Yeswelder DP200 has power factor correction, that would be nice. We'll see.
Generator friendly generally just means that it is tolerant of variable input voltage. Small generators often have "dirty" power, and fluctuate voltage and frequency as load changes. Calling a welder "generator friendly" normally just means the welder will actively compensate for these input fluctuations so the welding output currently won't be overly affected.
That what I'm hoping so I don't have to buy another generator that would be an inverter generator running an inverter welder, seems redundant. I see they claim this runs goodnoff of 314 feet of 12ga wire. Needing something lighter than a buzz box and a generator to load in ths side by side to repair the corrals. Most would be reachable with just extension cords. I used to pick up the generator and buzz box, but they keep getting heavier and heavier.
I talked to Welsco today he said theirs are about $850, but he said that they don't like 6011. He said a big maintenance company bought several so they could use them in factories and not trip breakers.
I have been looking hard at the Everlast 161STH at half the price but doesn't seem to have much PF correction by the power it draws. It would be nice all welders had PF correction but it is probably only important if you are mobile or on a generator.
I called ESAB tech support before I bought it .They said it is indeed generator friendly. Make sure your AVR holds voltage. Mine was 119-120 loaded. It runs 6011 fine. It ran three 1/8" at 110A on 120v. I switched to the everlast 211 at 100A (max for it on 120V) and it tripped the breaker ( I have a 4' long circuit on a 30A breaker) after one rod. So these welders with PF correction are great if you are going portable.
How much sir
How much what? Are you asking about price?
Scratch start is just using stick mode
No tig welding footage...🙄🙄
Sorry, this review was mainly focused on the stick welding performance. I did briefly test the lift start TIG and it works well. Smooth arc and nice lift start. But I didn't get any arc shots or anything. I originally thought I would get a foot pedal for it and do a separate video focused on TIG welding, but I eventually moved on to other things. I apologize if the TIG welding aspect of this welder is what you were looking for.
Will it work with finger button torch? I bought rogue es 200.
Não tem em português
wtf is isab?