I have mine about 16" off the ground and I can actually sit down to inspect my hives. I'm all about keeping things nice and comfy so I built a chair that wedges into my hive stand that carries 3 hives in a row. I can double that to 6 when required. I've been toying with the idea of a two-hive wrap to save material. Gonna be a fun spring in the workshop! Lots of projects to work on.
I just bought two Lyson 8/9's from Betterbee. I wouldn't have known these hives existed if not for your show. i live in northern New Hampshire and I'm building a version of the Beebarn that relies heavily on your innovations. i cant thank you enough for the research you've done.
I love these videos, I'm not a bee keeper but I'm a fan of beekeeping on UA-cam and have been watching you since the beginning of your channel. You have come a long way and I hope one day I will put all this to good use but in the mean time I'm just collecting knowledge, thanks for sharing!
There is a lot more to beekeeping than watching videos. Watching the bees grow and respond to innovation is not something you learn from books. I'm working on a top ventilation/feeder box and it served me well last year and I filled it with a piece of fiberglass insulation going into winter.. All I'm saying is try different things to see what works best for you.
I really enjoyed your demonstration of the better ergonomics at the beginning. It really shows how much thought you have put into the design. You are a smart and clever woodworker and have the ability to solve problems with that. Great video!
My buddy is going to start keeping bees and I send him all your stuff. I don't keep bees but I plan to live vicariously through him. Really love your journey as an apiarist especially in a tough northern climate.
I’m a small man 71 years old and just gave up on bee keeping because of my physical limitations. This is such a great concept. Thanks Jim. I now imagine I will be able to get my young grand kids into the hobby.
Raised my hive stands like this last year and u can definitely feel the difference after inspections with less bending. Thanks for your videos, got me jones-ing for spring!
So interesting! I just bought a couple of Lyson 8/9 hives after watching your first vid and am really mulling over your instructions (I'm not very handy though). Hey, regarding ants....have you heard of a product called AntCant? It works GREAT! You put a strip of aluminum tape around the legs of your stand and lightly spray the AntCant on the tape. It makes it too slippery for ants or anything else (even the bees) to crawl up over the aluminum strip. The ants give up and don't come back. You don't even have to re-spray it very often (even after a heavy rain). Last year, I sprayed the tape maybe once every six weeks (or when I thought about it). NO ANTS. Love that stuff.
Great video and I am still jealous of the shop. For the un-initiated I have included the definition for warpie: Warpie intransitive verb 1 Twisty or bendie wood 2 Synonym: wonkey 3 Understanding that beehive frame legs can sometimes get warpie when weathered.
Going to build a few of these for the new season, I totally agree with the idea of having your hives on stands you can walk around I have a similar setup today on metal legs and it makes things a lot easier
Jim, great video. I plan to use your plan for my hive builds. I will add some eye bolts to the frame stands so I can use straps with hooks and not have to run the ratchet straps underneath the hive.
Hey Jim. I'm a recent subscriber, from NC, and am really enjoying your videos. I love the thought process you follow to develop new ideas! I already use polystyrene hives, so don't see going the entire Bee Barn route, but I am super excited to experiment with the deep + medium combo for a brood box, with your extended frame design. It's an idea that any of us can use, even with plain old wooden boxes, regardless of climate! I know you are planning a "frame" video, but please be reminded we will start new hives a few weeks earlier than in your neck of the woods, and would love something to work with soon!! Thanks again!!!!!
Very similar to ones I've made in the past for same reasons. Found a few nuggets I plan to use. I like mine about that height too. Especially like the coroplast protection. Can't wait for the next one.
Another great video, Jim. Nice explanation on cutting the angled legs. And yes, everyone should have a stand like this… I can’t imagine trying to work bees from any place but the sides of the hive!
I love your videos and am really liking this series and am considering these stands and your bee barn for my hives. But I’m going to put the nuts on the inside of the stands. The way you have them you can more easily catch yourself on the end of the bolt.
Jim, using Pressure treated wood is good and will last for a few years (depending on where you live) but if you put at least 2 coats of an exterior deck sealer/stain on the bare wood will make the Pressure treated wood last a lifetime. With the extra cost of pressure treated wood, you want your wood to last a very long time.
Quick suggestion for cutting the notches: use the square on the cut end instead of using the side of the board and offsetting it by 5°. The cut end is going to be parallel to the ground, so your board will be vertical. This way would avoid any error between your two 5° measurements, as well as being easier to do.
There are lots of ways to do this. I did it this way this time for the video. The thing is, once you cut one out, you can use it as a pattern and make 1000 more with no measuring. I’m just trying to put ideas out there and save some backs. I’m sure someone could do this better. Thanks!
Hi Jim, I didn't go through all the comments but see one thing I would do differently. On the coroplast for the stand cover I would make it 1 1/2 inches longer on each edge, so 3 inches larger than the footprint. Each edge would be cut at a 30 degree angle so that the outer edge, when folded over would be longer on the outside away from the wood. This would create a drip edge to keep moisture away from the wood/foam. You may have to cut a v-notch through the under layer where you need to fold the coroplast over each edge but be sure to NOT cut through the coroplast. With this in mind I would fasten the coroplast on the sides thus eliminating a verticle access for water to get into the wood. In the intro video you also mentioned the moisture coming out the bottom board and this would keep that moisture away from the wood also. Maybe overkill but you already created a far better hive whats a little more longevity. Thanks for all the sharing of your journey.
on the note of Ants one thing ill never forget from when i was a kid was living in Hawaii and seeing Thin (but wide) sheet metal wrapped around Palm trees. I learned that this was to prevent ants and other bugs/slugs/small humans from climbing the trees b/c it was a smooth surface. It might be over kill to put something like that on the legs but if mice/ants really become an issue thatd be a good way to maybe deal with them.
one slight alteration i'd make is if you have off cuts glue or screw them to the bottom of the legs to make wider feet so it lessens the chance for it to sink over time
@@vinofarm i'm just thinking where i live it's soft sandy soil and we get heavy snow in winter as well as heavy rains in spring so the ground can be a soft mess till late spring/ early summer
Thank you dont know how much I have learned from you and am fascinated by your journey! One thing I keep on forgetting to ask is did you start beekeeping with bare hands, if not how long did he take before you did? I'm in my third year and still haven't got up the courage to try it.
By the middle of the first year, I realized the benefits. The key was just slowing down. Also, you will get stung occasionally… but you get used to it. I still wear gloves a couple times each year during the crazy robbing season when hives are testy.
As an experienced beekeeper (meaning I have a lot of failures) I don’t believe that one solution is an answer, either the conventional way to keep bees or something innovated like this design. This is not original to me but I think the perspective is valuable. Beekeeping is a humbling activity. Sometimes an idea you are sure is going to work doesn’t. Or the idea you are sure definitely is not going to work for some reason does work. Or the thing that used to work suddenly stops working. You need to continually learn, relearn and unlearn. If you are an old time beekeeper maybe it’s time to unlearn some things. If you are a new beekeeper it is a good idea to learn from experience. If you are trying new things let time be the judge on whether it is a good idea. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride.
Just a suggestion.... under the coroplast put a layer of quarter inch hardware cloth. Rats and mice can easily chew through plastic and do so if pushed for food sources
Another benefit to the stands vs. the rail system is freedom from being locked into positioning the hives adjacent to each other. I like how many of the hives in Jim’s bee yard are deliberately positioned to make it easier for the bees to have a distinctive “home address” and to discourage the robbing of adjacent hives.
Very impressive build. I may have to look to build me a couple of these. I am curious about one thing though; why did you put the bolt heads on the inside of the stand instead of the nut? Seems like the nut and bolt end are a greater snag hazard than the bolt head would be on the outside.
@@The_Channel_Of_Chad Seriously, it’s so tightening up those nuts is a lot easier after the wood shrinks. I didn’t want to deal with reaching up under the hives after everything is in place. I can easily give them all a quick turn from the outside.
@5:45 you mention about about galvanised bolts.... they will be zinc coated! If you're worried about corrosion, use A2/304 stainless with all the fixings.
I live in another continent in the middle of the desert where the excessive heat is the problem, and i think your hives may help us here as we do the oppsite (ventilation from almost every side of the box to keep them cool). Not to mention that all what you saying make sense. I wish you the best in your life and i thank for your continous effort to help us. I stumbled on a small problem while searching for your design online by typing (bee barn), it shows other things that are not related to it. Some kind on design for native wild bees to use as a hotel and some normal hives literally in barns. I think changing the name bee barn may be beneficial to make it more clear for people. It is a new specific hive design with different unique frames, so i don't think naming it the Vino Hive would be a stretch.
Thank you. I’m not selling these so the name is not important to me. It’s kind of a concept that I’m trying to inspire people to build themselves. If you want to call it the Vinohive, I’m sure people will know what you’re talking about.
Suggestion. Double up the legs. Placing the second board under the horizontal ones, making a crutch. This will make the legs much stronger and support way more weight.
Loks super skookum hope it performs great. The barn/wood shop also seems nice. I would watch a video on the work you did there if you feel like sharing.
I posted a bunch of interior build out images and videos on Instagram @vinofarm last year as I went along. I have lots of footage for a full video someday.
Dear Jim, I absolutely love the bee barn, and I am very grateful for all the time and effort you’ve put into your many fine videos on this great new hive idea. What would be your thoughts on oxalic acid vapor in a bee barn?
I use an Easy Vap and shoot it right in the front entrance. No worries. I think it's great because there are no leaks anywhere except back out the front door. I would not recommend Formic for the same reason OA works well... The hive is too tight and formic needs to vent. My preferred treatment is Apivar.
Another benefit of hive stands is the entrance is too high for skunks to attack. A question-here in California summer gets quite hot (up to 115). The insulation will be great for the brood box but the supers are uninsulated. Would they benefit from a layer of foam also?
Hi Glenda, I'm in Virginia where its more humid with temps in the 80s. Screen inner covers work well in the summer heat to dry down honey. The Apimaye insulated hives were developed in Arizona with upper ventilation as I mentioned. Most of the insulated hives have a screen bottom. You may need to try one of these screen products to see what works in your area (no disrespect to Vino because he is in a different climate)
My guess is the double joists are overkill no matter how high they are stacked but certainly add extra insurance. They would help keep,the stands from racking/twisting from a wind load. I think I’m going to build one of your 2.0 hives and experiment this season. Will you be covering how you do your frames in a future video?
I hear you comparing yuor new hive stand to the old fashioned 4x4 and cinder block. one more thing you could mention is that with the other ystem, the vibrations as you work the hive alarm the bees in other hives often causing beekeepers to mistake their activity as aggression.
I have found that small things (dirt, ants, small hive beetles) like to get into the "holes" of the coroplast. Have you thought about sealing those up somehow? (caulk?)
@@vinofarm it may be slightly more wastefull, but you could run a bead of caulk on an extra piece then dip the ends in it, then wipe off the top and bottom leaving only the caulk left in the ends
Thank you for sharing your stand design! I'm hoping you will be sharing your stand design, and especially your new hive design, in written dimensional instructions? I would be happy to pay you for your designs in written detailed form. I'm guessing many others would as well. Video is helpful, but written details, with specific detailed measurements, is best for most.
The dimensions of the hive depend on what you have or can get as you won't construct the inner core from scratch. The dimensions of the stand depend on the hive you put on it.
I’m not planning on releasing any written plans or drawings. I figured all this out on scrap paper and just trial and error. The videos are meant to boil down the design and share some techniques so people have a clearer picture of what to shoot for, but everyone is starting with completely different materials, base hives, equipment, tools, climates, experiences and skills. I want people to use some creativity and put a tiny bit of effort into problem solving for their situations. The Bee Barn is a concept. There’s not ONE way to make it!
@Vino Farm That makes sense. Fact is, I don't think I've ever built anything from written plans that I completely followed. I'm building a dining room table and have ventured so far off the original detailed plans that no one could even tell it's the same table. ☺️ I'll watch your great videos several times, take good notes, & then scratch up my own plans! Thank you, again! BTW, I've shared your hive system several times at our local bee club. Most think it's wrong & want to continue doing things the old way. Interestingly, one new member just bought a small farm. On that farm was several hives that have been abandoned there for year. Whoever built those hives used similar building designs as you use. The new farm owner found thriving bee colonies in every hive even though the hives have been unattended to for years. Evidence that building hives with this design system, or something similar, works!
Hi, I moved to the rocky mountains from New England and appreciated thinking about my bee keeping out there. I don’t have Bear problems where I am now. Quick question: How would you go about adding a nuk to start the hive in spring with standard deep frames to the bee barn extra deep frames?
Nucs are not ideal to introduce into these hives. A package is perfect and they very quickly build the frames out. Transitioning an existing hive is not too hard. I will be making a video on transition scenarios after the build series is done. Stay tuned.
I totally agree with you that the ability to approach a hive from all sides is the way to go (and not the way I went.) You seem to have thought this through a bit... do you have a smart solution for removing/replacing heavy supers as the stack gets high? That is where my back really complains.
My stacks are usually 3 mediums high of capped frames, so they get to chin height. If they need a 4th or 5th box, I will try to remove and condense the lower supers to keep the stack reachable.
The weight of the bees, frames, honey, plus a large ratchet strap. Also, my bee yard is surrounded by a 6 foot tall hedge that greatly diminishes any wind.
Wondering about the closed off bottom board, it never needs cleaning? Or I guess a Shop Vac might do the trick but I would have to move the hive back to the shop for electric. I was in my hives the other day, there is always the accumulation of chewed wax and dead bees that I clean every year, how do you clean the bottom board?
What do you do for a frame holder for the new 2.0? I see that you had one built in for the original version. What do you do with your frames during inspections?
Frames NEVER hang outside the hive. The key is to leave a spacer on the outside position that gets removed first. The spacer gets pulled and I put it on the ground by the entrance. Then I lift frames up, inspect, and put them back in order. No hangers. No mixing of frames. Don't even remove frames from the "airspace" over the box.
I’d put more on the top before adding to the bottom. 2” down there is probably OK. The key is the air sealing and the continuous envelope of insulation.
Hi I am now making frames for the bee barn, please, what is the length of the side bar? How much space between the lower cross bar and the floor and is this critical? Thank you Airbuster.
Thank you for doing this series. As you can tell, there is a lot of us who appreciate it. What are your thoughts on making an adapter to use 10 frame supers on your Bee Barn design? I'm thinking I could modify a wood-framed queen excluder to go from the 8 frame to 10 frame. I'd like to be able to utilize my existing supers but want your 2.0 design.
Hi Jim, Thanks again for the great video. I am going to build a couple to try out to compare with my standard hives here in Maine. One question, do you make any allowance for a winter feeding shim to place fondant on the frames, or have you found it unnecessary? Best, Doug
Unnecessary. If the boxes are filled in the fall (I offer syrup in September/October for them to top off the brood cavity) they will not need any supplemental feed over winter. They just don't burn very much honey because they don't need to constantly re-heat the hive. Last year, all the hives came out of winter with at least 50% of their stores still in the boxes.
Great improvements in design. My only question is why not paint the bottom of the hive. If that is the only thing the ants could get into, it seems like cheap insurance.
@@budgiebreder oh yes. I do want to cover that at some point. It was as simple as pulling frames and dropping them into the new boxes. No glitches at all. I keep forgetting that no one saw the second half of my 2021 beekeeping.
I thought I remembered a build video from the original bee barn (wooden one) - am I imagining, or did you take those down? For now, I need to use the equipment I have - so wood it is... maybe as I get more, I can transition to the styrofoam boxes.
Absolutely a great looking hive (although I'm a newbie)!! Only one question: what latitude/ climate zone is this heavily insulated bee barn perhaps overkill?? I'm in Virginia and IDK if this could cause undue harm? Sry I'm new and won a few bee hives from the city that has to be filled this year! Lots to do A.S.A.P. 😁🙏
Some people think it’s overkill in New England! On the other hand, I think any hive in any climate would benefit from insulation. Insulation does not generate heat. It stabilizes a cavity that the bees need to expend resources to maintain at a specific temperature. Any help you can give them is making their job easier. People need to stop thinking insulation is only for cold places.
@@vinofarm Copy; I appreciate your points here. I have subscribed and will continue to watch your vast videos & build series; Thank you for all your help and support of this community 🐝👍
@@vinofarm People in the southwestern part of the USA know about Adobe houses where thick walls are used to keep your house cool during the heat of the day.
How tall are you Jim? My makeshift stands are currently 18”+ for a double deep brood box setup. I’m a fairly comfortable with the working height (at 6’4”), but curious about adjusting.
I’m 5’10” and the new bee barns are 2” higher than the old ones due to the foam under the bottom board. I realized after making these that the stands could probably even be a bit shorter. 14” could probably work for me. 16” is about as high as I want to go. 18” for 6’4” sounds about right.
Right on thanks! Along those lines, any red flags from your perspective on a double deep setup as opposed to the medium + deep combo? Thinking I might make some custom frames this spring and I’ve got A LOT of deeps.
If ya go that far pay to get ya tig skills up to date go a ally frame and frames would be good in solid round bar or square bar with plastic foundations.
I have mine about 16" off the ground and I can actually sit down to inspect my hives. I'm all about keeping things nice and comfy so I built a chair that wedges into my hive stand that carries 3 hives in a row. I can double that to 6 when required. I've been toying with the idea of a two-hive wrap to save material. Gonna be a fun spring in the workshop! Lots of projects to work on.
I like the simplicity of your design. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you like it!
I just bought two Lyson 8/9's from Betterbee. I wouldn't have known these hives existed if not for your show. i live in northern New Hampshire and I'm building a version of the Beebarn that relies heavily on your innovations. i cant thank you enough for the research you've done.
I love these videos, I'm not a bee keeper but I'm a fan of beekeeping on UA-cam and have been watching you since the beginning of your channel. You have come a long way and I hope one day I will put all this to good use but in the mean time I'm just collecting knowledge, thanks for sharing!
There is a lot more to beekeeping than watching videos. Watching the bees grow and respond to innovation is not something you learn from books. I'm working on a top ventilation/feeder box and it served me well last year and I filled it with a piece of fiberglass insulation going into winter.. All I'm saying is try different things to see what works best for you.
I really enjoyed your demonstration of the better ergonomics at the beginning. It really shows how much thought you have put into the design.
You are a smart and clever woodworker and have the ability to solve problems with that. Great video!
My buddy is going to start keeping bees and I send him all your stuff. I don't keep bees but I plan to live vicariously through him. Really love your journey as an apiarist especially in a tough northern climate.
I’m a small man 71 years old and just gave up on bee keeping because of my physical limitations. This is such a great concept. Thanks Jim. I now imagine I will be able to get my young grand kids into the hobby.
Raised my hive stands like this last year and u can definitely feel the difference after inspections with less bending.
Thanks for your videos, got me jones-ing for spring!
Thanks for sharing your Bee Barn design steps.
I really like these I like how you're taking on the establishment We shouldn't accept just one way of thinking Love it
Excellent instructions. Thank you Jim!
So interesting! I just bought a couple of Lyson 8/9 hives after watching your first vid and am really mulling over your instructions (I'm not very handy though). Hey, regarding ants....have you heard of a product called AntCant? It works GREAT! You put a strip of aluminum tape around the legs of your stand and lightly spray the AntCant on the tape. It makes it too slippery for ants or anything else (even the bees) to crawl up over the aluminum strip. The ants give up and don't come back. You don't even have to re-spray it very often (even after a heavy rain). Last year, I sprayed the tape maybe once every six weeks (or when I thought about it). NO ANTS. Love that stuff.
Interesting. Thanks.
Great video and I am still jealous of the shop. For the un-initiated I have included the definition for warpie:
Warpie
intransitive verb
1 Twisty or bendie wood
2 Synonym: wonkey
3 Understanding that beehive frame legs can sometimes get warpie when weathered.
Is that the southern US spelling? Up here we say “warpy”… haha
Your research has answered a lot of questions for me and got me excited to try some new things to overcome problems that have left me discouraged.
Thank you for sharing Jim.
Going to build a few of these for the new season, I totally agree with the idea of having your hives on stands you can walk around I have a similar setup today on metal legs and it makes things a lot easier
Great video! I definitely see the advantage of this bee stand for any type of equipment. Your design will save so many Bee Keepers from back pain!
Jim, great video. I plan to use your plan for my hive builds.
I will add some eye bolts to the frame stands so I can use straps with hooks and not have to run the ratchet straps underneath the hive.
I am inspired once again. Thanks for all your videos over the years..........
Hey Jim. I'm a recent subscriber, from NC, and am really enjoying your videos. I love the thought process you follow to develop new ideas!
I already use polystyrene hives, so don't see going the entire Bee Barn route, but I am super excited to experiment with the deep + medium combo for a brood box, with your extended frame design. It's an idea that any of us can use, even with plain old wooden boxes, regardless of climate!
I know you are planning a "frame" video, but please be reminded we will start new hives a few weeks earlier than in your neck of the woods, and would love something to work with soon!! Thanks again!!!!!
Thanks once again! Love the added thoughts on lifting. You have made a hive that is easy on you and the bee's.
Thank You I am just starting this year with two hives. Learning a lot. 🇨🇦
Love this series.
I just started beekeeping and I made your stand design instead of the long bench. It works great. Fantastic videos!!
Very similar to ones I've made in the past for same reasons. Found a few nuggets I plan to use. I like mine about that height too. Especially like the coroplast protection. Can't wait for the next one.
Another great video, Jim. Nice explanation on cutting the angled legs. And yes, everyone should have a stand like this… I can’t imagine trying to work bees from any place but the sides of the hive!
Excellent job
My to do list grows as I watch your videos! Thanks for the great content! ❤❤❤
Great series.
Someone finally thinking outside the box about the box and its entire! Well done!
I love your videos and am really liking this series and am considering these stands and your bee barn for my hives. But I’m going to put the nuts on the inside of the stands. The way you have them you can more easily catch yourself on the end of the bolt.
Love the video series. I will be building these. Thanks Jim
Gorgeous. Thank for all this!
Love the video! Thanks for sharing.
Nice! Simple, strong design. And I like you did your best to idiot-proof the video. The more info - less questions! Excellent series!!!
@donaldwilliam6764 SPAM
Jim, using Pressure treated wood is good and will last for a few years (depending on where you live) but if you put at least 2 coats of an exterior deck sealer/stain on the bare wood will make the Pressure treated wood last a lifetime. With the extra cost of pressure treated wood, you want your wood to last a very long time.
It never occurred to me how much a toll beekeeping could take on your back
Thanks again! You clearly took a pic of my first hive stand! "Two cinder blocks and a landscaping timber"
That’s everyone’s first hive stand! Time to move on from that.
@@vinofarm heck yes!
Quick suggestion for cutting the notches: use the square on the cut end instead of using the side of the board and offsetting it by 5°. The cut end is going to be parallel to the ground, so your board will be vertical. This way would avoid any error between your two 5° measurements, as well as being easier to do.
There are lots of ways to do this. I did it this way this time for the video. The thing is, once you cut one out, you can use it as a pattern and make 1000 more with no measuring. I’m just trying to put ideas out there and save some backs. I’m sure someone could do this better. Thanks!
Thanks Jim. I've been looking forward to this series since you first talked about the barn 1.0 way back when.
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice. Looking forward to part 3.
Making me want to get into beekeeping. If I still lived in Winchendon I would know where to go 🤣
Brilliant for The Bees, and my BACK!!
Exactly.
Great video. Just make sure you have good dust control when cutting the pressure treated stuff.
Hi Jim,
I didn't go through all the comments but see one thing I would do differently. On the coroplast for the stand cover I would make it 1 1/2 inches longer on each edge, so 3 inches larger than the footprint. Each edge would be cut at a 30 degree angle so that the outer edge, when folded over would be longer on the outside away from the wood. This would create a drip edge to keep moisture away from the wood/foam. You may have to cut a v-notch through the under layer where you need to fold the coroplast over each edge but be sure to NOT cut through the coroplast. With this in mind I would fasten the coroplast on the sides thus eliminating a verticle access for water to get into the wood. In the intro video you also mentioned the moisture coming out the bottom board and this would keep that moisture away from the wood also. Maybe overkill but you already created a far better hive whats a little more longevity. Thanks for all the sharing of your journey.
Good ideas. These videos are supposed to be a starting point. Everyone is going to do their own thing and that's cool!
Nice tools you have
on the note of Ants one thing ill never forget from when i was a kid was living in Hawaii and seeing Thin (but wide) sheet metal wrapped around Palm trees. I learned that this was to prevent ants and other bugs/slugs/small humans from climbing the trees b/c it was a smooth surface. It might be over kill to put something like that on the legs but if mice/ants really become an issue thatd be a good way to maybe deal with them.
one slight alteration i'd make is if you have off cuts glue or screw them to the bottom of the legs to make wider feet so it lessens the chance for it to sink over time
I haven’t had that issue, but it’s a good idea. Thanks.
@@vinofarm i'm just thinking where i live it's soft sandy soil and we get heavy snow in winter as well as heavy rains in spring so the ground can be a soft mess till late spring/ early summer
I’m my bee yard, I would need to put something wide under the feet so the hives stay level.
Thank you dont know how much I have learned from you and am fascinated by your journey! One thing I keep on forgetting to ask is did you start beekeeping with bare hands, if not how long did he take before you did? I'm in my third year and still haven't got up the courage to try it.
By the middle of the first year, I realized the benefits. The key was just slowing down. Also, you will get stung occasionally… but you get used to it. I still wear gloves a couple times each year during the crazy robbing season when hives are testy.
As an experienced beekeeper (meaning I have a lot of failures) I don’t believe that one solution is an answer, either the conventional way to keep bees or something innovated like this design.
This is not original to me but I think the perspective is valuable.
Beekeeping is a humbling activity. Sometimes an idea you are sure is going to work doesn’t. Or the idea you are sure definitely is not going to work for some reason does work. Or the thing that used to work suddenly stops working. You need to continually learn, relearn and unlearn.
If you are an old time beekeeper maybe it’s time to unlearn some things. If you are a new beekeeper it is a good idea to learn from experience. If you are trying new things let time be the judge on whether it is a good idea.
Thanks for bringing us along for the ride.
Thanks Jim
Just a suggestion.... under the coroplast put a layer of quarter inch hardware cloth. Rats and mice can easily chew through plastic and do so if pushed for food sources
Another benefit to the stands vs. the rail system is freedom from being locked into positioning the hives adjacent to each other. I like how many of the hives in Jim’s bee yard are deliberately positioned to make it easier for the bees to have a distinctive “home address” and to discourage the robbing of adjacent hives.
Very nice another video keep them coming!!! 😊
More to come! Always.
Very impressive build. I may have to look to build me a couple of these. I am curious about one thing though; why did you put the bolt heads on the inside of the stand instead of the nut? Seems like the nut and bolt end are a greater snag hazard than the bolt head would be on the outside.
I thought it would generate more comments on UA-cam. Looks like it worked!
LOL. Fair enough.
Love the series and can't wait to see the next videos.
@@The_Channel_Of_Chad Seriously, it’s so tightening up those nuts is a lot easier after the wood shrinks. I didn’t want to deal with reaching up under the hives after everything is in place. I can easily give them all a quick turn from the outside.
I was wondering the same, glad he already answered.
The shrinkage reason makes sense.
"like a savage" 😂 12:45
@5:45 you mention about about galvanised bolts.... they will be zinc coated!
If you're worried about corrosion, use A2/304 stainless with all the fixings.
What do you mean? There are zinc coated and there are galvanized. Two different types of bolts. Stainless is more durable, but a bit more expensive.
I live in another continent in the middle of the desert where the excessive heat is the problem, and i think your hives may help us here as we do the oppsite (ventilation from almost every side of the box to keep them cool). Not to mention that all what you saying make sense. I wish you the best in your life and i thank for your continous effort to help us. I stumbled on a small problem while searching for your design online by typing (bee barn), it shows other things that are not related to it. Some kind on design for native wild bees to use as a hotel and some normal hives literally in barns. I think changing the name bee barn may be beneficial to make it more clear for people. It is a new specific hive design with different unique frames, so i don't think naming it the Vino Hive would be a stretch.
Thank you. I’m not selling these so the name is not important to me. It’s kind of a concept that I’m trying to inspire people to build themselves. If you want to call it the Vinohive, I’m sure people will know what you’re talking about.
Yes, part two
Cool...my husband built a nice high platform for me as we are beekeepers, he still lifts the honey I can not. But I don't have to bend.
I ended up building individual stands for all of my colonies last year, makes such a HUGE difference. I saw the design from Bug Farmer.
And he freely admits he got it from Jim (Vino Farm). His primary improvement (in my opinion) is the built-in ant moat.
@Bert Veening Yeppers. . Both Jim, Vino Farm, and Bug Farmer are good people. One of the Best updates last season in my Apiary were those stands.
The ant moats are sweet. I need ant moats for 2x6s.
@@vinofarm He 3D-printed them.
@@apveening oh, yes. I know. I don’t have a 3D printer. I was hinting to him to design up a new size!
Suggestion. Double up the legs. Placing the second board under the horizontal ones, making a crutch. This will make the legs much stronger and support way more weight.
Loks super skookum hope it performs great. The barn/wood shop also seems nice. I would watch a video on the work you did there if you feel like sharing.
I posted a bunch of interior build out images and videos on Instagram @vinofarm last year as I went along. I have lots of footage for a full video someday.
love it
One of my favorite things is when I build something, and accidentally discover that it has more than one benefit.
Dear Jim, I absolutely love the bee barn, and I am very grateful for all the time and effort you’ve put into your many fine videos on this great new hive idea. What would be your thoughts on oxalic acid vapor in a bee barn?
I use an Easy Vap and shoot it right in the front entrance. No worries. I think it's great because there are no leaks anywhere except back out the front door. I would not recommend Formic for the same reason OA works well... The hive is too tight and formic needs to vent. My preferred treatment is Apivar.
Simple but great design.
Thank you!
After watching this I’m buzzing
Another benefit of hive stands is the entrance is too high for skunks to attack.
A question-here in California summer gets quite hot (up to 115). The insulation will be great for the brood box but the supers are uninsulated. Would they benefit from a layer of foam also?
I don't insulate supers and don't think it's necessary. It's all about the brood box. If the supers are hot, the honey dries faster.
Hi Glenda, I'm in Virginia where its more humid with temps in the 80s. Screen inner covers work well in the summer heat to dry down honey. The Apimaye insulated hives were developed in Arizona with upper ventilation as I mentioned. Most of the insulated hives have a screen bottom. You may need to try one of these screen products to see what works in your area (no disrespect to Vino because he is in a different climate)
I use a painted foam lid on my hive and the woodpeckers shred it getting at the bees! I'm going PVC board and foam.
Question. I have a nuc ordered and wonder how you'd move regular frames in to this larger box.
My guess is the double joists are overkill no matter how high they are stacked but certainly add extra insurance. They would help keep,the stands from racking/twisting from a wind load. I think I’m going to build one of your 2.0 hives and experiment this season. Will you be covering how you do your frames in a future video?
There will be at least 4 videos. Frames are video #4.
I hear you comparing yuor new hive stand to the old fashioned 4x4 and cinder block. one more thing you could mention is that with the other ystem, the vibrations as you work the hive alarm the bees in other hives often causing beekeepers to mistake their activity as aggression.
Good point.
I have found that small things (dirt, ants, small hive beetles) like to get into the "holes" of the coroplast. Have you thought about sealing those up somehow? (caulk?)
I did do that once... I caulked the holes on the mite trays of bee barn 1.0. It was a pain, but I think it did keep junk out of the channels.
@@vinofarm it may be slightly more wastefull, but you could run a bead of caulk on an extra piece then dip the ends in it, then wipe off the top and bottom leaving only the caulk left in the ends
@@TheAciddragon069 Good idea.
Thank you for sharing your stand design! I'm hoping you will be sharing your stand design, and especially your new hive design, in written dimensional instructions? I would be happy to pay you for your designs in written detailed form. I'm guessing many others would as well. Video is helpful, but written details, with specific detailed measurements, is best for most.
The dimensions of the hive depend on what you have or can get as you won't construct the inner core from scratch. The dimensions of the stand depend on the hive you put on it.
I’m not planning on releasing any written plans or drawings. I figured all this out on scrap paper and just trial and error. The videos are meant to boil down the design and share some techniques so people have a clearer picture of what to shoot for, but everyone is starting with completely different materials, base hives, equipment, tools, climates, experiences and skills. I want people to use some creativity and put a tiny bit of effort into problem solving for their situations. The Bee Barn is a concept. There’s not ONE way to make it!
@Vino Farm That makes sense. Fact is, I don't think I've ever built anything from written plans that I completely followed. I'm building a dining room table and have ventured so far off the original detailed plans that no one could even tell it's the same table. ☺️ I'll watch your great videos several times, take good notes, & then scratch up my own plans! Thank you, again! BTW, I've shared your hive system several times at our local bee club. Most think it's wrong & want to continue doing things the old way. Interestingly, one new member just bought a small farm. On that farm was several hives that have been abandoned there for year. Whoever built those hives used similar building designs as you use. The new farm owner found thriving bee colonies in every hive even though the hives have been unattended to for years. Evidence that building hives with this design system, or something similar, works!
Thinking about building this. Do you have on the fourth video where you can put EVERYTHING you used and the total cost
?
Hi, I moved to the rocky mountains from New England and appreciated thinking about my bee keeping out there. I don’t have Bear problems where I am now. Quick question: How would you go about adding a nuk to start the hive in spring with standard deep frames to the bee barn extra deep frames?
Nucs are not ideal to introduce into these hives. A package is perfect and they very quickly build the frames out. Transitioning an existing hive is not too hard. I will be making a video on transition scenarios after the build series is done. Stay tuned.
I totally agree with you that the ability to approach a hive from all sides is the way to go (and not the way I went.) You seem to have thought this through a bit... do you have a smart solution for removing/replacing heavy supers as the stack gets high? That is where my back really complains.
My stacks are usually 3 mediums high of capped frames, so they get to chin height. If they need a 4th or 5th box, I will try to remove and condense the lower supers to keep the stack reachable.
Have you considered a high wind? What will keep it from blowing off its perch?
The weight of the bees, frames, honey, plus a large ratchet strap. Also, my bee yard is surrounded by a 6 foot tall hedge that greatly diminishes any wind.
Wondering about the closed off bottom board, it never needs cleaning? Or I guess a Shop Vac might do the trick but I would have to move the hive back to the shop for electric. I was in my hives the other day, there is always the accumulation of chewed wax and dead bees that I clean every year, how do you clean the bottom board?
The tray collects everything that falls to the bottom. It slides out and you dump it. Easy.
What do you do for a frame holder for the new 2.0? I see that you had one built in for the original version. What do you do with your frames during inspections?
Frames NEVER hang outside the hive. The key is to leave a spacer on the outside position that gets removed first. The spacer gets pulled and I put it on the ground by the entrance. Then I lift frames up, inspect, and put them back in order. No hangers. No mixing of frames. Don't even remove frames from the "airspace" over the box.
In 40 below weather would you recommend 4" of foam on the bottom of the barn
I’d put more on the top before adding to the bottom. 2” down there is probably OK. The key is the air sealing and the continuous envelope of insulation.
I'd recommend a move someplace that's warmer in winter. LOL
@@LazyDogsRanch 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Where is the world is Jim? I built and deployed two bee barns. Going strong.
Hi
I am now making frames for the bee barn, please, what is the length of the side bar? How much space between the lower cross bar and the floor and is this critical?
Thank you
Airbuster.
Thank you for doing this series. As you can tell, there is a lot of us who appreciate it. What are your thoughts on making an adapter to use 10 frame supers on your Bee Barn design? I'm thinking I could modify a wood-framed queen excluder to go from the 8 frame to 10 frame. I'd like to be able to utilize my existing supers but want your 2.0 design.
Anything is possible. You’d need something substantial for the lowest one to sit on, but the bees wouldn’t mind.
Hi Jim, Thanks again for the great video. I am going to build a couple to try out to compare with my standard hives here in Maine. One question, do you make any allowance for a winter feeding shim to place fondant on the frames, or have you found it unnecessary? Best, Doug
Unnecessary. If the boxes are filled in the fall (I offer syrup in September/October for them to top off the brood cavity) they will not need any supplemental feed over winter. They just don't burn very much honey because they don't need to constantly re-heat the hive. Last year, all the hives came out of winter with at least 50% of their stores still in the boxes.
@@vinofarm thank you Jim, hope you get some sleep😴😁
👍
Where do I buy the black core plastic??
Do you use standard wood honey supers or do you spend the bucks on deep or medium poly boxes?
Regular wooden supers.
Great improvements in design. My only question is why not paint the bottom of the hive. If that is the only thing the ants could get into, it seems like cheap insurance.
They’ll go through paint. Plastic offers a bit more resistance.
Whats the weight comparison between the wood Medium/Deeps and the poly Medium/Deeps?
The actual boxes? Pretty close. The poly hives may actually be heavier.
Where do you get your supply of black coroplast?
Hey, will you eventually put up a video about how to successfully move hives around? Eg established hives?
Move them where? My hives don’t move.
@@vinofarm i mean from the old bee barn to the new :)
@@budgiebreder oh yes. I do want to cover that at some point. It was as simple as pulling frames and dropping them into the new boxes. No glitches at all. I keep forgetting that no one saw the second half of my 2021 beekeeping.
@@vinofarm not too late to upload it! (If you filmed it anyway)
I thought I remembered a build video from the original bee barn (wooden one) - am I imagining, or did you take those down? For now, I need to use the equipment I have - so wood it is... maybe as I get more, I can transition to the styrofoam boxes.
Nice stand! From Part 1... Do the bees chew on the interior foam of the molded hive?
I’ll let you know this spring when I open them.
@@vinofarm Thank You
Absolutely a great looking hive (although I'm a newbie)!!
Only one question: what latitude/ climate zone is this heavily insulated bee barn perhaps overkill?? I'm in Virginia and IDK if this could cause undue harm? Sry I'm new and won a few bee hives from the city that has to be filled this year! Lots to do A.S.A.P. 😁🙏
Some people think it’s overkill in New England! On the other hand, I think any hive in any climate would benefit from insulation. Insulation does not generate heat. It stabilizes a cavity that the bees need to expend resources to maintain at a specific temperature. Any help you can give them is making their job easier. People need to stop thinking insulation is only for cold places.
@@vinofarm Copy; I appreciate your points here. I have subscribed and will continue to watch your vast videos & build series; Thank you for all your help and support of this community 🐝👍
@@vinofarm People in the southwestern part of the USA know about Adobe houses where thick walls are used to keep your house cool during the heat of the day.
return of the coroplast! :)
So. Many. Uses.
I got an important question , can I use my old refrigerator to build the hyve?
How tall are you Jim? My makeshift stands are currently 18”+ for a double deep brood box setup. I’m a fairly comfortable with the working height (at 6’4”), but curious about adjusting.
I’m 5’10” and the new bee barns are 2” higher than the old ones due to the foam under the bottom board. I realized after making these that the stands could probably even be a bit shorter. 14” could probably work for me. 16” is about as high as I want to go. 18” for 6’4” sounds about right.
Right on thanks! Along those lines, any red flags from your perspective on a double deep setup as opposed to the medium + deep combo? Thinking I might make some custom frames this spring and I’ve got A LOT of deeps.
@@abigwonderful Those would be massive frames. The bees will love them and being a taller person, handling them should be no problem. Good luck!
i recommend you use a wide metal bed, which is enough for at least 4 beehives
But will limit access from all sides, I recommend you watch the video again.
@@apveening 🙄🏃🏻🏃🏻
If ya go that far pay to get ya tig skills up to date go a ally frame and frames would be good in solid round bar or square bar with plastic foundations.