I drilled from the top to avoid hitting the thread. before re-installing the sensor. I cleaned it with carburetor cleaner. also I installed the spark plug non foulers first. Then insert the o2 sensor. Works like a charm.
It’s not a cheap fix it will temporary get you to emissions that is it and it will turn the light out after 10 to 12,000 miles. The light will come back on with the same code. I know because I’ve done it you clear the light out three days it’s back again. Eventually you’re gonna have to get it dealt with. It’s just a easy way. Temporary way of getting rid of the problem for now to get you through that is it
You can pass with this even the visual inspection, just get the high temp insulation the gold or chrome hose blanket kind, or the tape style they sell then wrap it around the sensor and cover it up they won't look or say nothing. They have it at most auto stores it is the heat protector shit, my vw has some on the engine from the factory back near the turbo manifold for the main intake to recirculating blow off valve (diverter valve) hose
@@JjDubbski if your cat is plugged then tricking the sensor isn’t going to change gas mileage. You better at least buy new cats or cut them out and replace them with other pipe if you want better mpg. I’d try a can of seafoam in your tank and it might be able to dissolve your carbon plugged cats.
This O² sensor measures the O² leaving the catalytic converter. If the converter is working properly, it should return a low reading. As I understand it, the engine computer does not make any adjustments based on this reading. The sensor is only there to check the performance of the catalytic converter and detect when it is due for replacement. The original hack was to disconnect this sensor and connect a simple circuit that simulated a low O² reading to the engine computer, all the time. The engine computer only checked for a low O² reading once the exhaust system warmed up. Once the hack was well known, the engine computer software was rewritten to detect this method of tampering. Basically, when the engine is first started, the O² sensor should detect a normal fresh air level of O² and the engine computer is programmed to report a fault if it doesn't. With this fix, the O² sensor does start out reading a high level of O². The fix creates a small chamber out of the main exhaust gas flow. It appears that the O² entering the chamber does combine with unburned hydrocarbons, so the O² sensor reports a low reading to the engine computer, as it would with a working catalytic converter and the sensor placed in the main exhaust flow.
I can say it works !! I did it on my 2009 prius n i had put over 5000 miles since then n the light never came back on the car hasnt give me any problm at all ..
Retired mechanic here, *Pull up the passenger side carpet and unplug the sensor so you don't wind up the wire *You can get away with using one anti-fouler so the sensor wire won't stick out and rub the underbody *PAINT the outside of the anti-fouler, these will rust away leaving a hard to remove threaded end.
I've been running my Honda like this for years. Sometimes it'll come back on but rarely. Easily cleared and I have my CAT gutted and welded back. Downstream O2 only.
@lilsavagegod It was called a spark plug non fouler. 42006 Dorman is what I looked up. But with those, you have to drill one out to 1/2 inch drill bit. Then screw them together. But a lot of places sell those O2 extenders already to go.
For all the folks that have a problem with this listen up. The reason for the p0420 epidemic is that the tolerances for the exhaust gasses in most newer cars is extremely low. That means the computer will find a fault in the catalyst when it drops to 90 percent efficiency! That's why most of the time the car will still run and drive fine.
LOL If you live in a strict emissions regulated state like CA or NY, chances are you have a VISUAL inspection as the first part of the test… Which ultimately means you will FAIL. Depending on whether your year, make, model, and/or trim level has physical engravings and or stamped or welded plates, something with serial numbers or identification; you may be able to get away with replacing the bad cat or cat assembly/part with a generic replacement. This will allow you to run a generic part that’s at least EPA approved, which will work decent for the most part, and will also prevent any cat CEL’s from being triggered.
I politely ask you to please highlight this reply, to give a quick lesson to your viewers on how the OBD2 Emissions Readiness Test works, and how go about performing a drive cycle to completethe tests. Please do not take this as negative criticism, but there is a few wrong things with this video. The 1st thing i would like to mention, is that when you check for codes (on the TorqueApp you are using), incomplete tests will not show up, it will show "No Fault Codes In ECU". At the main menu, you can go into the "Realtime Information" section, and select to display the "Emissions Readiness DTC" data, there it will list each test, and the status of each test (complete, incomplete, not available) A 3 mile drive after clearing the codes is not a drive cycle that will meet the parameters and/or conditions inorder to perform the emissions test drive cycle. On every make and model ive worked on and/or performed state inspection on, the catalyst system check is almost always the last system check to be performed, and the evap system can also be a pain and take awhile to complete, ill explain the specific details on what needs to be in place for the test to run at the end of this comment. After clearing the codes or disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, then turning the ignition/engine on, there are a few tests that usually get completed right away, or within the first drive or 2, which are the following: #1. Misfire, #2. Fuel System, #3. Components, and #4. System type. Then there is #5. o2 Sensor, and #6. o2 Sensor Heater, which usually the emissions system will complete both almost always right away, but sometimes don't. Then the last 2 tests that are performed, are almost always: #7. Evaporative system, And #8. Catalyst. Now, some makes and models have more emission test that the ecu is equipped for and will perform (Heated Catalysts, Secondary Air System, A/C Refrigerant, EGR system), However not all makes and models have those extra ones, but, almost every OBD2 system will have the first 8 i listed (some 1996 and 1997 cars may only have 6 or 7). Keep in mind that i am a big fan of the Torque app, when i was working fulltime as a state inspector, i had a Bluetooth adapter with an old phone that had Torque Pro, and i would loan it out (well, not "loan", i would take a 30.00 deposit, which was returned when they returned my adapter and phone) to customers who needed to know when their ride was ready to pass the state emissions test, and it was mainly for the last 2 tests, which in some circumstances, took over a week to complete. And those were the Catalyst, and the Evap System. In order for a drive cycle test of the Evap System or the Catalyst to be performed, certain conditions and parameters need to be inline for the drive cycle test to start, analyze, and complete the test. Different makes and models have different conditions that need to be met, you can usually find the specifics on your car by searching the make and model emissions drive cycle, below i will list some common conditions that need to be met inorder to do so for the Catalyst and Evap System drive cycle. Cold Start: The coolant temp needs to be within 5 or 10 degrees of the outside air temp. Warm up: the car needs to idle for about 2 minutes before moving. Some car systems also need to idle for 2 minutes at the end of a drive cycle test to complete. Driving: With most cars, its required to go around 55mph for a couple minutes (or a couple miles), a soft deceleration is needed, a 3/4 throttle acceleration is needed, some require driving between 25mph to 30mph for a certain amount of time, etc. Gas level: Usually the tank needs to be between 1/4 tank and 3/4 tank (this mainly applies to the Evap test). In order to know what parameters and conditions need to be met inorder for a emissions test drive cycle to complete, you would have to search the specific year/make/model, above is just some basic examples of whats most common to start the tests. I really hope this helps some people, i had lots of customers come to my shop saying "The other shops state computer keeps saying my car is not ready!?!?" I gained alot of life long customers by explaining how emissions drive cycles work, loaning them my old phone with the Torque Pro app and adapter. The sad part is, the other mechanics couldn't just take 1 minute to lookup the drive cycle, and explain it to them.
If you had used a single longer adaptor (instead of those two shorter ones), you wouldn't need to drill anything out. The single longer fitting is also a bit cheaper.
This works with some tuning,,(first if your Converters are stopped up it will work for just a few miles and there is nothing you can do to stop making your check engine light come back on except repair them). This is only works if you have removed or cleaned out your convertors and you still might need to pack them with Steel Wool
Nice video bro! I just got a new header for my Civic. The original had the Cadillac converter in it! I thought I was gonna have to do this same thing BUT it's been over 200 miles now and still no check engine light!
People should read all the possible causes of a trouble code and check for those before effecting repairs or throwing parts at a problem. There are sites that outline them and explain in plain terms.
@@freddconr492 you can give vehicle info and description to a search engine and give the codes you read. Then read about the concerns people are having, the sites come up to select from. It's been like that for a very long time since internet has been available. You can also use online database through libraries and go to libraries to use databases they pay subscription to. You can find diagnostic websites that discuss your vehicle with you as goodwill for their knowledge and some people just want to be of help. I used one to help an older jeep because the guy kept insisting my initial call was wrong. I used the exchange of information to prove by majority opinion that his central processor had been switched with an older one that was not for fuel injection. Hence, it cranked but wouldn't start. The first day, on the side of the road, I showed him during inspection, along with the other parts that should have been working but failed tests. The online guys verified my gut reactions and suggested the whole sensor group was too far out of date, and testing would take too much when the time they had already been in use was too long. I found him a known good brain and he refused to buy it. I found him another one but it was anti theft equipped. It needed a DRB III scan to unlock. It was $50. He picked that one. I used the library resources to show him his recalls that hadn't been performed. He wouldn't read them. I finally had to insist, since it started now, but antitheft shut it down, that he get the right one for $110. Instead, he paid $325 to tow the vehicle to the jeep dealer. Those online guys verified everything I found was part of multiple causes. And those causes were viable. Just telling him was like talking to a stump. It was a huge help when my search words led me to that free diagnostic help website. Other techs share info it they know, or they say stupid shtuff that let's you know you're doing better than they would. The host watches and gives you steps to take or sends you back to system prechecks people tend to overlook when rushing to load the parts canon. He sometimes has no response if it's up to you to provide more info or get a service manual diagnostic from a library because of your circumstances. They share the kind of luck they have had with parts of certain brands over another. There's no cure all, and what you're working on may come up with your needs versus another make where you may not find anything diagnostic. The threads for that make may come under a club website of people who share make and model. Take it with a grain of salt and prove yours with testing, before spending your money. You can also find websites like "just answer". There are also sites you pay a fair price for professionals to answer you. You can read their other advice, before buying, they used for other customers.
After watching a ton of these videos all doing the same thing I'm left with questions. If the computer is only looking for a certain voltage parameter why couldn't someone just cut the two wires and insert a resistor to hold that constant voltage? I've seen those videos as well with the resistor/capacitor but no one has completely cut out the O2 sensor all together. Not asking the author necessarily but if anyone else has a thought I'd love to read it.
I second that. Actually, if you watch carefully at the very beginning of the video, you will notice the trace that this dude used to have a sticker to cover his check-engine-light. That was an unprofessional-Mickey-mouse act. LOL That being said, I was initially skeptical but after reading the poster's explanation to several other skeptical comments here, I incline to give it a shot now.
I had the po430 code on my 03 camry wich is the same thing only on bank 2, all I did was pour a gallon of lacquer thinner into half a thank gas, drove the thing for two hours about 180 miles, though to be fair the check engine light went off 5 minutes after I pour the thinner, I just wanted to burn the contaminated gas so as to not damage anything, it's been 4 days and some 80 miles and no light or code store in the ecm
This fix works, but it worries me. I replaced the entire exhaust up to and including the catalytic converter. I replaced upstream and downstream o2 sensors and I checked for leaks between the 2 sensors and I cannot find anything but I still got the P0420 until I did your fix. I want a permanent fix but I don't know what else I can do. Any idea what could be causing my issue.
I’m in the same boat.. I just keep wiping my P0420 code and put tape over the check engine light. I check the codes every week to make sure no new codes pop up.. I swapped my CAT for a performance header so that’s probably has no fix.. I don’t have emission tests in my state so It won’t matter, it doesn’t affect my car in any way..
@@skytechenterprise9906 For me, the spark plug thingy works but should not be needed. The car is on the other side of the country now but when it comes back I am going to try that bubble stuff you use when checking for leaks around a gas range gas connection. If there is any leak that will find it. It has to be between the two o2 sensors where the cat connects to the exhaust manifold.
@@Nikkk6969 Not really but I left the fix in. I also noticed a little bit of an exhaust smell in the car so I tightened the converter bolts by hand (tighter than recommended torque) and that seemed to do the trick. My kid still drives the car daily but I think the correct fix would be to replace the pipe between the engine and the cat, I guess that is called the manifold. I was pretty aggressive cleaning it before I installed the new cat so I suspect that I could have made the surface less flat than it should be.
Struggle with same code. Iam wondering, of what does it do to the mpg? Will try anyway, I tried of clearing this code every 2 days. Thanks for the tip.
Someone stole my cat and I bought 2 after market bolt old replacements from amazon and ebay. Neither of them work I'm guessing because the catalyst inside isn't dense enough to keep the CEL off. The prius cats are denser than most and is a special application. I'm going to try this to see if I can get it to stay off because the OEM will set me back at least 1000 dollars just for the part.
@@Shardesangzmy p0420 came out this year I did my smog last year after I cleaned the 02 sensors the about 4 days later the light went back on I went to buy 2 new sensors yesterday I cleared the check engine light if it doesn't go back on then that was the problem I'll let you know
@@7uciano in my case after I cleaned them about a week later the light went back on so I went and bought 2 new sensors it's been over a week now the light did not go on you can find it on you tube just type search how to clean sensors
Did you still have the codes even though the check engine light went away? Because after replacing my 02 sensors I'm still getting the P0420 code but check engine is off.
Hey heads up that I learned today that the O2 sensor in my Hyundai Accent is too fat to fit in the anti-fouler, even after drilling it out. I won’t get that afternoon back.
I don’t think this will change the decreased fuel efficiency i have on my 2019 F150… went from 17.5 to 15.5 with the P0420 code, i changed my cat converter by throwing this code a few month ago .. later on I got misfire reports and wire damage through rodents.. was fixed but now I have again P0420 showing.. unsure if I should change the cat converter again or just check the sensor ?
Hello how did you get the OBD2 SENSOR APP. ON YOUR PHONE PLEASE? ALSO WOULDN'T IT BE EASIER JUST TO BUY A NEW O2 SENSOR ON EBAY. THERE NOT EXPENSIVE. I GOT 14 MILES ON THE CAR THE OTHER NIGHT ON A HIGHWAY. My Toyota Camry 2.2 has 201k on it and has been a wonderful car. Not pretty dents and dings. But starts up a runs everytime. I put some ROCKAUTO FCS STRUTS ON UT FRONT AND BACK. BIG MISTAKE. TAKES THE BUMPS HARD ON POOR ROADS. THANKS DAVID
What happens when you do this? If i understand it correctly, the catalytic converter removes oxygen and pass through the final O2 sensor. I saw a video which shows graph of O2 (1) > Catalytic Converter > O2 (2). The graph of O2 (1) is a sine wave with 0.9V to 0.1V The graph of O2 (2) is a flat line. This is how it should work. Will we get the same results?
Basically if the internal stream has an oxygen deficiency when compared to ambient atmosphere air, then the sensor's signal (sin) deviation is less. This is reflected on a o-scope as a flat or close to flat wave form. If there's consistent constant switching, this reflects that the catalyst cannot reduce oxides or the sensor cannot accurately determine levels. End result is the ECU deeming the catalyst system in-efficient. So with the spacer the sensor is less exposed to the exhaust stream its monitoring, less media to react to, less the output signal deviates. This is my understanding...
You can have no codes, but still fail on readiness. DId you have to pass readiness also? If you had any incompletes, how many did you have, and how many are you allowed to have where you live?
Peace be upon you. I had a check mark in the car. [Kia Optima 2007 engine 2.0]. And I checked with a computer and the error came out... bank 1 sensor 2... meaning the second candle after the eco box and I changed it with a new candle and cleaned the eco box and the same thing. The error is repeated and I installed the same thing shown to you and the same error appears??? What is the solution
They sale already made spacers now also. Not sure how good they work. If you dont want to make one. Just dont get the L shaped ones. I had no luck cause of the position, it wanted to collect moisture.
Dose it turn of the check engine light of a car with California emission pls ….note that i will replace the catalitic converter as soon as i got money 😭
I know somebody that knows somebody that has installed a bunch of these. It works great unless your Catalytic converter is rattling and coming apart internally. And make sure you put the compression rings on and and screw them in tight. If it has an air leak your going to have A code for rear O2 stuck clean. By the way I’m really surprised the EPA hasn’t seen this video yet and came knocking on your door. I’m sure if they found out about it somebody’s gonna get heavy fines.
It can absolutely mess with performance. If it has too much back pressure from being clogged it can give you poor performance in the higher rooms n poor mpg. It's also very important to find the cause of the cat to fail instead of just replacing it or you'll be back at the shop saying DAY SHAAA VOOOO 😢
This will work on older vehicles but not 2005 or newer. Your light will show again. Check sensors corresponding with this code and 02 sensors could possibly be a short or another sensor in line with 02 or airflow sensors.
Cleared my p0420. Nearly 4 months and p0420 come back on ??. Just bought a universal lamda sensor instead much easier and cheap too. Only £13 on on ebay for mine.
I did it on my mercedes e class on my both oxygen sensor. Im still getting code for bank 2 sensor. I used non fouler on both sensors. Should i put non fouler on only bank 2 sensor to get rid of it or should both sensors should have non foulers? Or only one should have.
I'm not expert, but if you read some more comments here posted by this UA-camr, you'll find that he suggested to only do this to your car's downstream o2 sensor only.
Your Bank 1 sensor has nothing to do with how well the catalytic converter is scrubbing the exhaust. The exhaust hasn't even reached the catalytic converter at that point.
Did you still have the code even though the check engine light went away? Because after replacing my 02 sensors I'm still getting the P0420 code but check engine is off. Is it because I have to drive my car until it stores the code?
It is just a quick fix to pass the smog, I would think in the long run will damage the catalytic converter, or continue poor fuel consumption. Correct me if I am wrong.
If it's a real rich mixture, the cat will burn up. But usually it's just marginally rich and the cat is worn out. The ECU computer sees over .9 volt from the sensor and knows that the extra HC is not being burned. Thus a weak cat.
In other vihicles it's harder to remove and replace the 02sensor, I could see why in your case you would do a Mikey mouse fix. It's not hard to get to at all. Plus it's cheaper but you be surprised u can get 02sensOrs for less than $50.
It's not necessarily that the O2 sensor was bad and this is a fix for the failing O2 sensor. This is for when your Catalytic converter is failing. A lot of times the Cat will become less efficient over time, even only by a few percent and it will trip a CEL.
Don’t touch the upstream sensors or you’ll pay with bad mpg and performance. Only do this to the downstream 02 which is after all the cats which is for emissions testing only and doesn’t affect fuel trim
No it will not help gas mileage. it’s only going to turn off the light. If you have a bad catalytic converter and it is stopped up that will drop your gas mileage.
I have a problem turning on the check engine light. WV golf 4 1.6 16V 77KW 16804 / P0420 / 001056 - Catalytic converter system; Bank 1: Efficiency below the threshold. How to solve the problem?
Lol..i have done this on my Jeep Liberty with the Doorman non-faulers. It does only work for a short while, then the check engine light comes back on. Useless so to speak
On my Honda once in a blue moon it comes on but goes away or clears easily. This works great on Honda downstream O2 only. I opened my CAT and gutted it, then welded it back up. Been working for years.
I drilled from the top to avoid hitting the thread. before re-installing the sensor. I cleaned it with carburetor cleaner. also I installed the spark plug non foulers first. Then insert the o2 sensor. Works like a charm.
It’s not a cheap fix it will temporary get you to emissions that is it and it will turn the light out after 10 to 12,000 miles. The light will come back on with the same code. I know because I’ve done it you clear the light out three days it’s back again. Eventually you’re gonna have to get it dealt with. It’s just a easy way. Temporary way of getting rid of the problem for now to get you through that is it
Works great on my SRT8. Just built and installed a 426 Gen 3 HEMI. Did this and no more MIL!
thank you, helped me pass smog 🔥 so far 120 miles and still no check engine
Still no code?
I’m the video he says you will still fail smog test, but you passed? 🤔
Update?
That worked for my 2003 Matrix and I only needed the one anti--fowler!CHEERS from HERE!
You can pass with this even the visual inspection, just get the high temp insulation the gold or chrome hose blanket kind, or the tape style they sell then wrap it around the sensor and cover it up they won't look or say nothing. They have it at most auto stores it is the heat protector shit, my vw has some on the engine from the factory back near the turbo manifold for the main intake to recirculating blow off valve (diverter valve) hose
Worked like a charm on my 2006 4runner! I had to do this on both downstream sensors. CEL disappeared!
But did fuel efficiency and all that get worst? Better? My cat is plugged will this still work
@@JjDubbski No difference in fuel consumption. I'm not sure about your second question.
@@JjDubbski if your cat is plugged then tricking the sensor isn’t going to change gas mileage. You better at least buy new cats or cut them out and replace them with other pipe if you want better mpg. I’d try a can of seafoam in your tank and it might be able to dissolve your carbon plugged cats.
@@Nikkk6969 seafoam makes a bunch of different products is there a specific one that would work best for a possible clogged cat?
And
This O² sensor measures the O² leaving the catalytic converter. If the converter is working properly, it should return a low reading. As I understand it, the engine computer does not make any adjustments based on this reading. The sensor is only there to check the performance of the catalytic converter and detect when it is due for replacement.
The original hack was to disconnect this sensor and connect a simple circuit that simulated a low O² reading to the engine computer, all the time. The engine computer only checked for a low O² reading once the exhaust system warmed up. Once the hack was well known, the engine computer software was rewritten to detect this method of tampering. Basically, when the engine is first started, the O² sensor should detect a normal fresh air level of O² and the engine computer is programmed to report a fault if it doesn't. With this fix, the O² sensor does start out reading a high level of O². The fix creates a small chamber out of the main exhaust gas flow. It appears that the O² entering the chamber does combine with unburned hydrocarbons, so the O² sensor reports a low reading to the engine computer, as it would with a working catalytic converter and the sensor placed in the main exhaust flow.
Is there a bypass for that?
I can say it works !! I did it on my 2009 prius n i had put over 5000 miles since then n the light never came back on the car hasnt give me any problm at all ..
what about fuel has it increased or dropped
@@36tashia no difference..
@@36tashia From what I've read - the upstream affects fuel mixture but the downstream only monitors catalytic performance for pollution.
Retired mechanic here,
*Pull up the passenger side carpet and unplug the sensor so you don't wind up the wire
*You can get away with using one anti-fouler so the sensor wire won't stick out and rub the underbody
*PAINT the outside of the anti-fouler, these will rust away leaving a hard to remove threaded end.
Antiseize sounds like a good idea here
@@misterbulger yeah you actually get a little squeeze tube of it in the package when you buy a new sensor.
I've been running my Honda like this for years. Sometimes it'll come back on but rarely. Easily cleared and I have my CAT gutted and welded back. Downstream O2 only.
so it stays off
@lilsavagegod Yes. Worked for me. Don't use the L ones, or ones that will pool water. The O2 still needs to see exhaust stream without getting wet.
@@bobbydelamar606 do u have a part number like a doorman part or
@lilsavagegod It was called a spark plug non fouler. 42006 Dorman is what I looked up. But with those, you have to drill one out to 1/2 inch drill bit. Then screw them together. But a lot of places sell those O2 extenders already to go.
In other words, with the spark plug non foulers, you need 2.
Does the government really expect us poor people to blow a grand for NOT REALLY MAKING A DIFFERENCE in the air.???
Lol they think making all cars electric will “save the planet” when they still use fossil fuels for it 🤣🤣🤣
😂yes of course because food and electric is not their concern
Just did it today! Works great. Fuck the environment
@@alidi4144hell what are you talking about, we pay for their food, electric, and their fuel to ride around DC.
For all the folks that have a problem with this listen up. The reason for the p0420 epidemic is that the tolerances for the exhaust gasses in most newer cars is extremely low. That means the computer will find a fault in the catalyst when it drops to 90 percent efficiency! That's why most of the time the car will still run and drive fine.
Worked great on a 2009 Chevy Colorado. Passed the emissions test!
LOL If you live in a strict emissions regulated state like CA or NY, chances are you have a VISUAL inspection as the first part of the test… Which ultimately means you will FAIL.
Depending on whether your year, make, model, and/or trim level has physical engravings and or stamped or welded plates, something with serial numbers or identification; you may be able to get away with replacing the bad cat or cat assembly/part with a generic replacement.
This will allow you to run a generic part that’s at least EPA approved, which will work decent for the most part, and will also prevent any cat CEL’s from being triggered.
You really need to install two of those extensions on each censor?
I politely ask you to please highlight this reply, to give a quick lesson to your viewers on how the OBD2 Emissions Readiness Test works, and how go about performing a drive cycle to completethe tests. Please do not take this as negative criticism, but there is a few wrong things with this video.
The 1st thing i would like to mention, is that when you check for codes (on the TorqueApp you are using), incomplete tests will not show up, it will show "No Fault Codes In ECU". At the main menu, you can go into the "Realtime Information" section, and select to display the "Emissions Readiness DTC" data, there it will list each test, and the status of each test (complete, incomplete, not available)
A 3 mile drive after clearing the codes is not a drive cycle that will meet the parameters and/or conditions inorder to perform the emissions test drive cycle. On every make and model ive worked on and/or performed state inspection on, the catalyst system check is almost always the last system check to be performed, and the evap system can also be a pain and take awhile to complete, ill explain the specific details on what needs to be in place for the test to run at the end of this comment.
After clearing the codes or disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, then turning the ignition/engine on, there are a few tests that usually get completed right away, or within the first drive or 2, which are the following:
#1. Misfire, #2. Fuel System, #3. Components, and #4. System type.
Then there is #5. o2 Sensor, and #6. o2 Sensor Heater, which usually the emissions system will complete both almost always right away, but sometimes don't.
Then the last 2 tests that are performed, are almost always:
#7. Evaporative system,
And #8. Catalyst.
Now, some makes and models have more emission test that the ecu is equipped for and will perform (Heated Catalysts, Secondary Air System, A/C Refrigerant, EGR system), However not all makes and models have those extra ones, but, almost every OBD2 system will have the first 8 i listed (some 1996 and 1997 cars may only have 6 or 7).
Keep in mind that i am a big fan of the Torque app, when i was working fulltime as a state inspector, i had a Bluetooth adapter with an old phone that had Torque Pro, and i would loan it out (well, not "loan", i would take a 30.00 deposit, which was returned when they returned my adapter and phone) to customers who needed to know when their ride was ready to pass the state emissions test, and it was mainly for the last 2 tests, which in some circumstances, took over a week to complete. And those were the Catalyst, and the Evap System.
In order for a drive cycle test of the Evap System or the Catalyst to be performed, certain conditions and parameters need to be inline for the drive cycle test to start, analyze, and complete the test.
Different makes and models have different conditions that need to be met, you can usually find the specifics on your car by searching the make and model emissions drive cycle, below i will list some common conditions that need to be met inorder to do so for the Catalyst and Evap System drive cycle.
Cold Start: The coolant temp needs to be within 5 or 10 degrees of the outside air temp.
Warm up: the car needs to idle for about 2 minutes before moving. Some car systems also need to idle for 2 minutes at the end of a drive cycle test to complete.
Driving: With most cars, its required to go around 55mph for a couple minutes (or a couple miles), a soft deceleration is needed, a 3/4 throttle acceleration is needed, some require driving between 25mph to 30mph for a certain amount of time, etc.
Gas level: Usually the tank needs to be between 1/4 tank and 3/4 tank (this mainly applies to the Evap test).
In order to know what parameters and conditions need to be met inorder for a emissions test drive cycle to complete, you would have to search the specific year/make/model, above is just some basic examples of whats most common to start the tests.
I really hope this helps some people, i had lots of customers come to my shop saying "The other shops state computer keeps saying my car is not ready!?!?"
I gained alot of life long customers by explaining how emissions drive cycles work, loaning them my old phone with the Torque Pro app and adapter. The sad part is, the other mechanics couldn't just take 1 minute to lookup the drive cycle, and explain it to them.
Is that what my p1000 code is for?
It works I have a 05 taurus with 4 02 sencors did both downstreams and passed today
Utube
If you had used a single longer adaptor (instead of those two shorter ones), you wouldn't need to drill anything out. The single longer fitting is also a bit cheaper.
are the single longer adaptor at auto part stores?
@Coroa - what's the part# for the single longer adapter that you speak of? Where can you purchase it?
Yes I want too know the part number for the long one as well
Cali there banned at auto parts stores for the big one so you gotta do with the smaller one
Unplug it to untwist
This works with some tuning,,(first if your Converters are stopped up it will work for just a few miles and there is nothing you can do to stop making your check engine light come back on except repair them). This is only works if you have removed or cleaned out your convertors and you still might need to pack them with Steel Wool
Well done young man, old school trick.
I think fixing by this way , O2 sensor will not detect the O2 percentage accurately .. it is like bypassing the O2 sensor function ..
I got 2 oxy sensor in the front of the car or engine. You say there is one to the exhaust pipes or cataltic convert?
Nice video bro! I just got a new header for my Civic. The original had the Cadillac converter in it! I thought I was gonna have to do this same thing BUT it's been over 200 miles now and still no check engine light!
Nice upgrade, that's interesting that it hasn't tripped a check engine light but hey, if it works don't fix it right? lol
Have modified exhaust on well-tuned cars in the past(off road only)and found that some burn clean enough to be within operating specs.no codes.
QASD
People should read all the possible causes of a trouble code and check for those before effecting repairs or throwing parts at a problem. There are sites that outline them and explain in plain terms.
Where?? I'm interested
@@freddconr492 you can give vehicle info and description to a search engine and give the codes you read.
Then read about the concerns people are having, the sites come up to select from.
It's been like that for a very long time since internet has been available.
You can also use online database through libraries and go to libraries to use databases they pay subscription to.
You can find diagnostic websites that discuss your vehicle with you as goodwill for their knowledge and some people just want to be of help.
I used one to help an older jeep because the guy kept insisting my initial call was wrong.
I used the exchange of information to prove by majority opinion that his central processor had been switched with an older one that was not for fuel injection.
Hence, it cranked but wouldn't start.
The first day, on the side of the road, I showed him during inspection, along with the other parts that should have been working but failed tests.
The online guys verified my gut reactions and suggested the whole sensor group was too far out of date, and testing would take too much when the time they had already been in use was too long.
I found him a known good brain and he refused to buy it.
I found him another one but it was anti theft equipped.
It needed a DRB III scan to unlock.
It was $50.
He picked that one.
I used the library resources to show him his recalls that hadn't been performed.
He wouldn't read them.
I finally had to insist, since it started now, but antitheft shut it down, that he get the right one for $110.
Instead, he paid $325 to tow the vehicle to the jeep dealer.
Those online guys verified everything I found was part of multiple causes. And those causes were viable.
Just telling him was like talking to a stump.
It was a huge help when my search words led me to that free diagnostic help website. Other techs share info it they know, or they say stupid shtuff that let's you know you're doing better than they would.
The host watches and gives you steps to take or sends you back to system prechecks people tend to overlook when rushing to load the parts canon.
He sometimes has no response if it's up to you to provide more info or get a service manual diagnostic from a library because of your circumstances.
They share the kind of luck they have had with parts of certain brands over another.
There's no cure all, and what you're working on may come up with your needs versus another make where you may not find anything diagnostic.
The threads for that make may come under a club website of people who share make and model.
Take it with a grain of salt and prove yours with testing, before spending your money.
You can also find websites like "just answer".
There are also sites you pay a fair price for professionals to answer you.
You can read their other advice, before buying, they used for other customers.
After watching a ton of these videos all doing the same thing I'm left with questions. If the computer is only looking for a certain voltage parameter why couldn't someone just cut the two wires and insert a resistor to hold that constant voltage? I've seen those videos as well with the resistor/capacitor but no one has completely cut out the O2 sensor all together. Not asking the author necessarily but if anyone else has a thought I'd love to read it.
That's what I call a professional Mickey mouse....
😂
I second that. Actually, if you watch carefully at the very beginning of the video, you will notice the trace that this dude used to have a sticker to cover his check-engine-light. That was an unprofessional-Mickey-mouse act. LOL
That being said, I was initially skeptical but after reading the poster's explanation to several other skeptical comments here, I incline to give it a shot now.
I did the same thing on my 2000 s10. Works great thanks.
Is it still working, have you had any problems?
Yes it is still working. I have done emissions test on and it has no issues. Great work around.
Is it still working?
@@willanderson9609 do you use both bank 1 and bank 2? Thanks
Could probably get same results if you plug the 1st line of intakes near the tip with some jb-weld, sand it smooth, and re-install it.
What are the chances of that working?
@@blazedONEin87 zero to none!
No more drill . Using Dorman part number 42109 . Quick , save a lot of time , no damage thread.
How long did this last.
I had noticed that you had made another video, is it because it wasn't a permanent fix?
I had the po430 code on my 03 camry wich is the same thing only on bank 2, all I did was pour a gallon of lacquer thinner into half a thank gas, drove the thing for two hours about 180 miles, though to be fair the check engine light went off 5 minutes after I pour the thinner, I just wanted to burn the contaminated gas so as to not damage anything, it's been 4 days and some 80 miles and no light or code store in the ecm
Mine passed...but as the tech was doing final inspections..he saw it. Got mad and canceled my test..😮
Worked like a charm on 2004 Toyota Camry with 225,000 miles.
Thank you so much!
No visual inspection during the emissions test?
Lucky you
How about the fuel consumption? does it normal or lower than before?
No change for sure. Only the front O2 sensor effect fuel consumption together with mass air flow sensor
i just put the same thing on my 02 sensor but i only used one of those pieces and didnt need to drill and passed emissions
It may fix the light,but does it fix the fuel air mixture?
Works on prius
And pass smog here in cali
Just make sure they dony see it
This fix works, but it worries me. I replaced the entire exhaust up to and including the catalytic converter. I replaced upstream and downstream o2 sensors and I checked for leaks between the 2 sensors and I cannot find anything but I still got the P0420 until I did your fix. I want a permanent fix but I don't know what else I can do. Any idea what could be causing my issue.
I’m in the same boat.. I just keep wiping my P0420 code and put tape over the check engine light. I check the codes every week to make sure no new codes pop up.. I swapped my CAT for a performance header so that’s probably has no fix.. I don’t have emission tests in my state so It won’t matter, it doesn’t affect my car in any way..
@@skytechenterprise9906 For me, the spark plug thingy works but should not be needed. The car is on the other side of the country now but when it comes back I am going to try that bubble stuff you use when checking for leaks around a gas range gas connection. If there is any leak that will find it. It has to be between the two o2 sensors where the cat connects to the exhaust manifold.
@@BillAnon any luck?
@@Nikkk6969 Not really but I left the fix in. I also noticed a little bit of an exhaust smell in the car so I tightened the converter bolts by hand (tighter than recommended torque) and that seemed to do the trick. My kid still drives the car daily but I think the correct fix would be to replace the pipe between the engine and the cat, I guess that is called the manifold. I was pretty aggressive cleaning it before I installed the new cat so I suspect that I could have made the surface less flat than it should be.
@@BillAnon interesting. Well glad to know you still drive it haha never know what weird problems could arise in older vehicles
Struggle with same code. Iam wondering, of what does it do to the mpg? Will try anyway, I tried of clearing this code every 2 days. Thanks for the tip.
Does this improve mpg? Tested?
@@ricardsgriezitis4177 I am reading that downstream sensor does NOT affect fuel economy at all.
Someone stole my cat and I bought 2 after market bolt old replacements from amazon and ebay. Neither of them work I'm guessing because the catalyst inside isn't dense enough to keep the CEL off. The prius cats are denser than most and is a special application. I'm going to try this to see if I can get it to stay off because the OEM will set me back at least 1000 dollars just for the part.
2006 ford E150, only works for about 50 miles for me then check engine light comes back on. Tried a few different configurations but no luck so far.
I got a po420 reading I just cleaned my o2 sensors with mass airflow cleaner my check engine light went out
Did you pass your smog after?
@@Shardesangzmy p0420 came out this year I did my smog last year after I cleaned the 02 sensors the about 4 days later the light went back on I went to buy 2 new sensors yesterday I cleared the check engine light if it doesn't go back on then that was the problem I'll let you know
Do you know any video about how to clean it?
@@7uciano in my case after I cleaned them about a week later the light went back on so I went and bought 2 new sensors it's been over a week now the light did not go on you can find it on you tube just type search how to clean sensors
Did you still have the codes even though the check engine light went away? Because after replacing my 02 sensors I'm still getting the P0420 code but check engine is off.
Hey heads up that I learned today that the O2 sensor in my Hyundai Accent is too fat to fit in the anti-fouler, even after drilling it out. I won’t get that afternoon back.
Me too. My o2 sensor didn't fit either. Diameter too big.
What kind scanner did you used I trying to get one, thanks nice video 😊
do you really need two of them stacked?
I don’t think this will change the decreased fuel efficiency i have on my 2019 F150… went from 17.5 to 15.5 with the P0420 code, i changed my cat converter by throwing this code a few month ago .. later on I got misfire reports and wire damage through rodents.. was fixed but now I have again P0420 showing.. unsure if I should change the cat converter again or just check the sensor ?
Hello how did you get the OBD2 SENSOR APP. ON YOUR PHONE PLEASE? ALSO WOULDN'T IT BE EASIER JUST TO BUY A NEW O2 SENSOR ON EBAY. THERE NOT EXPENSIVE. I GOT 14 MILES ON THE CAR THE OTHER NIGHT ON A HIGHWAY. My Toyota Camry 2.2 has 201k on it and has been a wonderful car. Not pretty dents and dings. But starts up a runs everytime. I put some ROCKAUTO FCS STRUTS ON UT FRONT AND BACK. BIG MISTAKE. TAKES THE BUMPS HARD ON POOR ROADS. THANKS DAVID
Do you think it would work on a BMW 7?
I put some cata clean on my Audi Q7 3.6 and no more P0420 code since the past 2 weeks.
Nice not using it for the same reasons but definitely gonna try it out 👍🏽
What happens when you do this? If i understand it correctly, the catalytic converter removes oxygen and pass through the final O2 sensor. I saw a video which shows graph of O2 (1) > Catalytic Converter > O2 (2).
The graph of O2 (1) is a sine wave with 0.9V to 0.1V
The graph of O2 (2) is a flat line.
This is how it should work.
Will we get the same results?
I mean if your cel doesn’t come back on for sensor 2 (downstream 02) then it’s well within its boundaries which means same result
Basically if the internal stream has an oxygen deficiency when compared to ambient atmosphere air, then the sensor's signal (sin) deviation is less. This is reflected on a o-scope as a flat or close to flat wave form. If there's consistent constant switching, this reflects that the catalyst cannot reduce oxides or the sensor cannot accurately determine levels. End result is the ECU deeming the catalyst system in-efficient. So with the spacer the sensor is less exposed to the exhaust stream its monitoring, less media to react to, less the output signal deviates. This is my understanding...
You can have no codes, but still fail on readiness. DId you have to pass readiness also? If you had any incompletes, how many did you have, and how many are you allowed to have where you live?
Peace be upon you. I had a check mark in the car. [Kia Optima 2007 engine 2.0]. And I checked with a computer and the error came out... bank 1 sensor 2... meaning the second candle after the eco box and I changed it with a new candle and cleaned the eco box and the same thing. The error is repeated and I installed the same thing shown to you and the same error appears??? What is the solution
you didn't mention in which O2 sensor you used that spacer? upstream or downstream?
I have a question the p0420 code if my cat is still good I'm not going to see any black smoke or smell anything right
Did you replace the downstream or upstream sensor ?
I did this on my 03 ford ranger and not only do i have the P0420 code still i also have a P0153 and P2197 now...?
So is p420 code bank 1 the upstream?
Bro I have Chevy Cruze 2014 1.4 dose this fits
Bought a truck straight piped no cats this will do the trick ?
I just got them at autozone. Do you need to include those two washers they come with or are they not necessary?
They are crush washers yes
They sale already made spacers now also. Not sure how good they work. If you dont want to make one. Just dont get the L shaped ones. I had no luck cause of the position, it wanted to collect moisture.
Where can i get them? And what mame they are known? Spacers?
@@miguelsalgado9065 I don't remember. I believe I searched Amazon or Ebay. I made mine cause it was easy.
@@bobbydelamar606 Thanks for the info.
Thanks so much fix my car thank to you.👍👍👍👍
Dose it turn of the check engine light of a car with California emission pls ….note that i will replace the catalitic converter as soon as i got money 😭
Will this affect fuel trims and cause smog faulire?
Does it run smoother when you do this? Gas mileage wise?
No, downstream 02 sensor doesn’t affect fuel trim from what I know, it’s only there for emissions testing and to see if cats are doing their job.
@@Nikkk6969 it can based on how a CEF will effect the computer. I'm not 💯 on the specifics however I have this same issue with my Lexus.
I think the wires are too close to the heat shield. The muffler will move while driving and these cables will be destroyed
Those wires are gonna be twisted and burnt
I know somebody that knows somebody that has installed a bunch of these. It works great unless your Catalytic converter is rattling and coming apart internally. And make sure you put the compression rings on and and screw them in tight. If it has an air leak your going to have A code for rear O2 stuck clean. By the way I’m really surprised the EPA hasn’t seen this video yet and came knocking on your door. I’m sure if they found out about it somebody’s gonna get heavy fines.
Don't snitch bro
They can f themselves. It’s not illegal in states with no emissions testing. I’m just doing it to take that annoying cel off my dash
Shut up old lady! Go knit a sweater!
What kind of code reader you have?
Is this a one size fits all thing?
It can absolutely mess with performance. If it has too much back pressure from being clogged it can give you poor performance in the higher rooms n poor mpg. It's also very important to find the cause of the cat to fail instead of just replacing it or you'll be back at the shop saying DAY SHAAA VOOOO 😢
Wrong.
This will work on older vehicles but not 2005 or newer. Your light will show again. Check sensors corresponding with this code and 02 sensors could possibly be a short or another sensor in line with 02 or airflow sensors.
Thank you for the tip, but after doing this, I still have code P0139 which is sensor slow response, do you have solutions for this code, please?
It's something else, not cat. Probably your sensors
On my minivan that code is p013a and changed the sensor 2 weeks later got the same code did you find a solution for this problem yet?
Did you found a solution? Thanks
Only downtream sensor?
Cleared my p0420. Nearly 4 months and p0420 come back on ??. Just bought a universal lamda sensor instead much easier and cheap too. Only £13 on on ebay for mine.
that second oxygen sensor after catalyst?
not first what before catalyc convector yes!?
What scanning tool do you use?
How is it going 2 years ago?
I did it on my mercedes e class on my both oxygen sensor. Im still getting code for bank 2 sensor. I used non fouler on both sensors. Should i put non fouler on only bank 2 sensor to get rid of it or should both sensors should have non foulers? Or only one should have.
Put it on every o2 sensor
I'm not expert, but if you read some more comments here posted by this UA-camr, you'll find that he suggested to only do this to your car's downstream o2 sensor only.
Does it work on a 2017 mustang and how long does it take after doing this?
Nice, next you will be replacing a plugged catalytic converter which right now they're pretty cheap...
Your Bank 1 sensor has nothing to do with how well the catalytic converter is scrubbing the exhaust. The exhaust hasn't even reached the catalytic converter at that point.
Did you have to raise your car up
Did you still have the code even though the check engine light went away? Because after replacing my 02 sensors I'm still getting the P0420 code but check engine is off. Is it because I have to drive my car until it stores the code?
Then you need to change air intake gasket
You do this from your cell?
Is it an app you download?
does it have to be on both O2 sensors or just the cat that’s faulty ?
It is just a quick fix to pass the smog, I would think in the long run will damage the catalytic converter, or continue poor fuel consumption. Correct me if I am wrong.
If it's a real rich mixture, the cat will burn up. But usually it's just marginally rich and the cat is worn out. The ECU computer sees over .9 volt from the sensor and knows that the extra HC is not being burned. Thus a weak cat.
Converter is already trash, only thing.
In other vihicles it's harder to remove and replace the 02sensor, I could see why in your case you would do a Mikey mouse fix. It's not hard to get to at all. Plus it's cheaper but you be surprised u can get 02sensOrs for less than $50.
It's not necessarily that the O2 sensor was bad and this is a fix for the failing O2 sensor. This is for when your Catalytic converter is failing. A lot of times the Cat will become less efficient over time, even only by a few percent and it will trip a CEL.
@@CtrlAltDefeatTV thats correct !
This is a cat problem, not a sensor problem.
I did this to my tundra. Been working great for 4-5 years now. Do I care to ever fix it right. NO. I don't care.
Yes cat converter is not needed in states with lots of trees.
So the problem was the o2 or the catalist??
So technically of I welt shut some of the air holes on my post cat O2 sensor, I will have the same result?
Waw...quite an idea
That’s a good idea, probably would even pass the visual part of the emissions test.
The sensor must be sending a signal to the ECU. Closing the holes will just activate the ECU light.
Did you try it? It should sense less O2, and plugging it makes sense
Hi I would like to ask if is that a lower or upper 02 sensor you are fixing. I have the same problem aswell p0420. Thanks!
Don’t touch the upstream sensors or you’ll pay with bad mpg and performance. Only do this to the downstream 02 which is after all the cats which is for emissions testing only and doesn’t affect fuel trim
This won’t ruin your engine? Or any other part?
I have P0420 code and car has terrible gas mileage.... will doing this setup with spaced oxygen sensor help the gas mileage get better ?
No it will not help gas mileage. it’s only going to turn off the light. If you have a bad catalytic converter and it is stopped up that will drop your gas mileage.
This is a good way but is it good to lie to the car computer system ? And what happen after a while to the engine if the catalyst blocked !! Thanks
Hey, the government lies to you all the time. The air today is no different than in 1969 before anti pollution crap.
What scanner are you using
I have a problem turning on the check engine light. WV golf 4 1.6 16V 77KW
16804 / P0420 / 001056 - Catalytic converter system; Bank 1: Efficiency below the threshold.
How to solve the problem?
Lol..i have done this on my Jeep Liberty with the Doorman non-faulers. It does only work for a short while, then the check engine light comes back on. Useless so to speak
That is true. Check engine light came back on but after a while, it eventually went off permanently. Maybe I am lucky
On my Honda once in a blue moon it comes on but goes away or clears easily. This works great on Honda downstream O2 only. I opened my CAT and gutted it, then welded it back up. Been working for years.
Yes but all I need is to pass the stupid emissions test to pass inspection so I can get new tag before I get pulled over.
Is it the up steam or the down steam.
Three miles is not enough to reset the emc for the im reset
Were there performance issues when the light came on?
Yeah, they tend to idle like shit, well below normal with that code on.
Worked like top on 04 honda civic used to come every 30 miles
Now 2k 3 months and never came again
Did you put it in bank 1 sensor 3?