Side note: cool to see your interview on Kombat Dads podcast a few days ago, your impact on the community is immeasurable. I know you're just a "regular guy" (pretty sure those were your words), but even regular guys can be legends in their respective areas of expertise (even when they're an amateur expert lol).
Hey these were mine! Awesome to see you got them working, but expected nothing less! Just a couple notes notes (only 20 min or so in at this time): 1. Wow thought I accidentally sent the wrong flyback for a mine, I did order a K7000 at the same time. 2. I did not remove the inductor or the large resistor, but stupidly didn't even notice that was missing. I was curious about the wire in place of the inductor, but I think I saw a picture of a chassis online that also had just a jumper so I didn't think much of it at the time. 3. It's entirely possible I mixed up the 2 boards when I wrapped them. I think I miswrote part of the notes too, I think I took Q101 out of the one that passed the lightbulb test and put it into the other chassis since the other was blowing fuses, and that didn't resolve the issue so I put it back. But, when I swapped it back they both started blowing fuses, if I remember correctly.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair 5. It's entirely possible I took the large resistor out from one and put it in the other (maybe one was busted) and forgot about it...I was pretty deep in some chassis at the time
7. Ah, didn't realize I was shorting the mosfet, damn. I think one of the boards had a different version that didn't use the extra plastic part and I didn't realize they were different revisions. Live and learn! This video has been super helpful for future endeavors!
Fake components are rampant these days, those HOTs are most likely other random transistors that have had the markings sanded off and re-etched, so it's not surprising they failed immediately. By the way, I was wondering if you had any experience using the FJL in a VGA chassis? I was thinking about trying it out in place of a BU2525 as it seems to have compatible specs.
True, but they are real in this case. They are simply crappy quality through no one’s fault except the Chinese manufacturing. The FJLs are the most universally applicable, best HOTs on the market, in my opinion.
2 hour video, I can't ask for much more! Thanks Mike!!
Side note: cool to see your interview on Kombat Dads podcast a few days ago, your impact on the community is immeasurable. I know you're just a "regular guy" (pretty sure those were your words), but even regular guys can be legends in their respective areas of expertise (even when they're an amateur expert lol).
Thanks!
What a way to start off the day!!
Smeggin awesome repairs Mike !
Thanks!
Hey these were mine! Awesome to see you got them working, but expected nothing less! Just a couple notes notes (only 20 min or so in at this time):
1. Wow thought I accidentally sent the wrong flyback for a mine, I did order a K7000 at the same time. 2. I did not remove the inductor or the large resistor, but stupidly didn't even notice that was missing. I was curious about the wire in place of the inductor, but I think I saw a picture of a chassis online that also had just a jumper so I didn't think much of it at the time. 3. It's entirely possible I mixed up the 2 boards when I wrapped them. I think I miswrote part of the notes too, I think I took Q101 out of the one that passed the lightbulb test and put it into the other chassis since the other was blowing fuses, and that didn't resolve the issue so I put it back. But, when I swapped it back they both started blowing fuses, if I remember correctly.
4. I replaced that B+ resistor, the original had basically fallen apart.
Copy. Yeah, I thought it was a K7000 flyback because it looked very much like it, but I was wrong. I realized it on the second chassis.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair 5. It's entirely possible I took the large resistor out from one and put it in the other (maybe one was busted) and forgot about it...I was pretty deep in some chassis at the time
6. The grease shouldn't be conductive, everything in there came from APAR :)
7. Ah, didn't realize I was shorting the mosfet, damn. I think one of the boards had a different version that didn't use the extra plastic part and I didn't realize they were different revisions. Live and learn! This video has been super helpful for future endeavors!
yes a mtc 9000 exellent i wonderd if it would ever come up on the channel.lol
what your doing look's fun to me
Fake components are rampant these days, those HOTs are most likely other random transistors that have had the markings sanded off and re-etched, so it's not surprising they failed immediately.
By the way, I was wondering if you had any experience using the FJL in a VGA chassis? I was thinking about trying it out in place of a BU2525 as it seems to have compatible specs.
True, but they are real in this case. They are simply crappy quality through no one’s fault except the Chinese manufacturing.
The FJLs are the most universally applicable, best HOTs on the market, in my opinion.
@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Thanks for the input, great repairs as always!
Just curious....
What is the difference between a consumer TV and an arcade monitor (not including high res or vector)?
Nothing.
Tubes are the same, chassis are different.