You, my man, are a trooper. I am a career videographer and a DIY'er. I just installed these damned things in my attic last weekend and the last thing I would have wanted to be doing on top of that shitty task would be making a video as well. Good job you did. Cheers from Nova Scotia.
Thank you so much for putting out this video. This looks just like my attic, minus the mold. And I have to install these next month and was wondering how to put them in place.
if that is an easy Friday... I would hate to work a hard day you might have...i did this on a house i bought a year ago...i was able to get most of them opened up from the outside i used gutter downspouts it worked great...made the attic much cooler plus 2 turbine fans helped... good work sir
I made a similar installation in my attic, including the using fiberglass batting to keep the cellulose insulation away from the soffits under the eaves. My frustration was that the pink polystyrene is flimsy and too expensive for what is like the free containers that restaurants give you to carry food home. If I were doing it again, I'd buy 1-inch, 4'x8' expanded polystyrene sheets with reflective foil, cut them down to just wider than the spacing between the rafters so they bow out to make an air channel, and slide that into place. It would be sturdier, not cost that much more, and, since it is stiffer, easier to slip into place, particularly in the tight space under the eaves. Oh well, live and learn. Those pink things do work.
Thank you so much for this video! I have watched so many, and finally yours was so helpful. I have a couple of questions for you. I already have insulation on the ceiling floor of my house which previous owners covered with plywood to make a floor. I don't see rafter vents and now thanks to you, know how to install them easier. I'm considering doing more insulation to the roof sheathing underside (with foam board) as the house is so cold in winter/hot in summer. I have seen videos about keeping the foam board 1 to 1 1/2 inches flushed to outer edge of the rafters for ventilation. I thought I should install the rafter vents instead? Also, should I cut the foam board to fit inside each rafter, or lay it across (perpendicular) to the rafters? I have seen both done and don't know which would work best. Thank you for your help. I hope you enjoyed that hot air balloon ride!
If you pull the blockers out make sure you put them back at the edge of the ceiling on the exterior wall top plate. Then push or better yet blow insulation in places you may have left bare when pulling the blocker out. If left bare this will create "ghosting" on the ceiling on the interior of the home.
I have been noticing more people use the baffles with the fold down piece that attaches to your top plate and covers the whole area. Is that a better setup, or does it depend on the insulation?
Thank you so much for posting! You video was a ton of help. I installed baffles in a similar way, but see no faint light coming in from them (even when the attic is pitch black and I shone a strong like at the soffit). Should I be seeing some faint light or do you think air is still getting through, even in the absence of light? Thank you!!
Just remember that you want the best flowing ridge vent that you can get installed at the peak. Don't use the roll out (Brillo pad style) vent ridge as it is very restrictive and clogs with roof debris. The only good vent ridge has the baffle wings on each side. The best flowing ridge vent is still the original style aluminum filtervent ridge vent.
Do attic baffles block any radiant heat if you run them between your rafters, up towards the roof ridge vent? I have a bunch of extra baffles, so i was going to use them up in that manner if they blocked some of the roofs radiant heat.
I need to install these baffles in my attic. Problem is, I have a hipped roof and where the rafters meet the soffits, there are 2x4's in the way.. Guessing they are headers or something. Does that take different method of installation? I haven't gotten real close to see if baffles will fit though. Thanks
I’m literally watching this video while in my attic, staring at 2x6 supports that prevent any adult from getting close enough to slide the baffles into place. I’m just going to get them close, remove the vents from the outside to set the bottom right, staple it, then climb back inside to secure the ends I CAN reach.
would you say doing every rafter be over kill? Found out I have an over abundance of moisture. And of course right now, from what I can tell the few rafter vents I do have I'm pretty sure are clogged but are spaced out one every 4 rafters
I used an IR gun to measure what these rafter vents do. Using the air flowing in from the soffits, they create a chimney effect that causes the air between your rafters heated by the shingles to rise to the top. On a sunny day, the air rising out of the top of these rafter vents is about twenty degrees hotter than the temperature on the rafter vent itself only a foot lower. They really are channeling heat up and away from your ceiling insulation. Space these rafter vents out to only one in four rafters and you had only one fourth that chimney effect and a lot more heat staying in the attic. It's more work, but worth it to put them in all but perhaps the most difficult to reach places. I has some left of them over, so I put two and three sections in the south-facing part of the roof. The higher that heat is channeled, the better.
This UA-cam video is misnamed. It refers to baffles. The vents are on the outside of the attic to allow cool air from the eaves to enter the attic. The baffles may improve the airflow.
Those baffles were ALL pressed onto nails and held securely in place. As far as bottom is concerned the baffles are held securely in place with the batt insulation. I would absolutely love to see a demonstration of someone doing the bend into the ceiling thing on a 4/12 sloped belly crawler attic that was not a new construction job.
@@LetZbucK75 agree its not easy and not fun but the only way you are going to get in to the corners from the attic is to pull back your insulation and get right in there so get a good fit and staple the baffles in
Roofer is right. Shoved in, the insulation should hold the baffles in place at the bottom. Most of my roofing nails did not stick down, so I had to staple further up. The top is easier to reach, so I stapled it there and as far down as I could reach. The polystyrene is flimsy, so I put small pieces of duct tape on it to staple through and prevent tearing. Keep in mind that although this is flimsy, it is in a attic where the only air flow is a slowly rising airstream. Also, you can make the stapling in tight places go easier with a hammer tacker that you swing like a hammer.
@@Inkling777 try using a slab nail or put a washer on to the nail to get more surface area. Also good idea with the tape but duct tape always fails and peels over time suggest using vapor barrier tape to add extra strength. I've never understood why they make the baffles out of such crappy material as they always eventually tear and fall down as the cross winds in the attic can get strong when the weather is inclement
I’m having the issue in my roof where in the summer time my roof is cooking itself and the winter I get ice build up when installing the baffles are you supposed to c any daylight
Hey man, good video, I myself am a attic insulator and totally relate to the work in that video lol. Have done at least a hundred of those jobs lol. I also have an attic insulation channel if you want to check it out
Looks like the baffles you installed were not wide enough to fill the space between the rafters. But I understand you did not buy them but only installed what was there.
If the roofing nails are not sticking out enough, you'll need to staple. If you've got a lot of these to install, it might be worthwhile to get a hammer tacker that will let you staple in tight places a lot easier. You swing it like a hammer.
@@SailorJasonTaylor Quite right. I almost tumbled through my ceiling twice before I got wise to the problem. For a permanent solution, I took some scrap 2x10 wood. I cut it down to about a foot in length and put small pieces of plywood extending down on each side. That slips easily over the 2x4 rafters. I then connected two of them with a two-foot length of 2x10. That creates a stable platform that can be used to step around the attic. That beats the heck out of kicking and feeling through the insulation. Connect those platforms with longer boards and you can make a path through the attic that's positioned about 16 inches above the ceiling. That let me spread that much cellulose in my attic followed by a layer of attic foil and still get about.
Well, I suppose it’s better than it was, but that’s not a very good baffle install. You can’t even tell whether the baffles are anywhere near where the air can flow from the soffit vents. And the mix of fiberglass and blown-in insulation certainly didn’t get put back in properly.
You, my man, are a trooper. I am a career videographer and a DIY'er. I just installed these damned things in my attic last weekend and the last thing I would have wanted to be doing on top of that shitty task would be making a video as well. Good job you did. Cheers from Nova Scotia.
Thank you.
Thank you so much for putting out this video. This looks just like my attic, minus the mold. And I have to install these next month and was wondering how to put them in place.
A roofer who is willing to get inside an attic and do this important work is rare. Props to you!
Thank you for posting! Exactly what I needed.
Thanks for the help man, exactly what I needed to see!
if that is an easy Friday... I would hate to work a hard day you might have...i did this on a house i bought a year ago...i was able to get most of them opened up from the outside i used gutter downspouts it worked great...made the attic much cooler plus 2 turbine fans helped... good work sir
You used gutter downspouts for baffles? I too am going to try & do them from the outside
Thanks 😊 this is my first time doing this. 👍
That is one black looking roof, thank god you put those baffles. Good work.
Thanks brother
Hi. How come a 24" baffle wasnt used? Wouldn't they be best?
I you have balls to that type of work god bless you
Thank you. God bless you as well. Thank you for taking an interest
I made a similar installation in my attic, including the using fiberglass batting to keep the cellulose insulation away from the soffits under the eaves. My frustration was that the pink polystyrene is flimsy and too expensive for what is like the free containers that restaurants give you to carry food home. If I were doing it again, I'd buy 1-inch, 4'x8' expanded polystyrene sheets with reflective foil, cut them down to just wider than the spacing between the rafters so they bow out to make an air channel, and slide that into place. It would be sturdier, not cost that much more, and, since it is stiffer, easier to slip into place, particularly in the tight space under the eaves. Oh well, live and learn. Those pink things do work.
Thank you so much for this video! I have watched so many, and finally yours was so helpful. I have a couple of questions for you. I already have insulation on the ceiling floor of my house which previous owners covered with plywood to make a floor. I don't see rafter vents and now thanks to you, know how to install them easier. I'm considering doing more insulation to the roof sheathing underside (with foam board) as the house is so cold in winter/hot in summer. I have seen videos about keeping the foam board 1 to 1 1/2 inches flushed to outer edge of the rafters for ventilation. I thought I should install the rafter vents instead? Also, should I cut the foam board to fit inside each rafter, or lay it across (perpendicular) to the rafters? I have seen both done and don't know which would work best. Thank you for your help. I hope you enjoyed that hot air balloon ride!
If you pull the blockers out make sure you put them back at the edge of the ceiling on the exterior wall top plate. Then push or better yet blow insulation in places you may have left bare when pulling the blocker out. If left bare this will create "ghosting" on the ceiling on the interior of the home.
Would this work on a common frame 2x6 rafter with a 2 - 2 1/2 inch heel height on a house built in the 1950's?
I have been noticing more people use the baffles with the fold down piece that attaches to your top plate and covers the whole area. Is that a better setup, or does it depend on the insulation?
Thank you so much for posting! You video was a ton of help. I installed baffles in a similar way, but see no faint light coming in from them (even when the attic is pitch black and I shone a strong like at the soffit). Should I be seeing some faint light or do you think air is still getting through, even in the absence of light? Thank you!!
Great video, will those stay in place when there are high winds?
Just remember that you want the best flowing ridge vent that you can get installed at the peak. Don't use the roll out (Brillo pad style) vent ridge as it is very restrictive and clogs with roof debris. The only good vent ridge has the baffle wings on each side. The best flowing ridge vent is still the original style aluminum filtervent ridge vent.
Do attic baffles block any radiant heat if you run them between your rafters, up towards the roof ridge vent? I have a bunch of extra baffles, so i was going to use them up in that manner if they blocked some of the roofs radiant heat.
I'm not too sure to be honest. But I would say "no" and that they only slow down the heat transfer
I need to install these baffles in my attic. Problem is, I have a hipped roof and where the rafters meet the soffits, there are 2x4's in the way.. Guessing they are headers or something. Does that take different method of installation? I haven't gotten real close to see if baffles will fit though. Thanks
I’m literally watching this video while in my attic, staring at 2x6 supports that prevent any adult from getting close enough to slide the baffles into place. I’m just going to get them close, remove the vents from the outside to set the bottom right, staple it, then climb back inside to secure the ends I CAN reach.
@@SailorJasonTaylor were you succesful?
would you say doing every rafter be over kill? Found out I have an over abundance of moisture. And of course right now, from what I can tell the few rafter vents I do have I'm pretty sure are clogged but are spaced out one every 4 rafters
Over kill is never a bad thing my friend.
I used an IR gun to measure what these rafter vents do. Using the air flowing in from the soffits, they create a chimney effect that causes the air between your rafters heated by the shingles to rise to the top. On a sunny day, the air rising out of the top of these rafter vents is about twenty degrees hotter than the temperature on the rafter vent itself only a foot lower. They really are channeling heat up and away from your ceiling insulation. Space these rafter vents out to only one in four rafters and you had only one fourth that chimney effect and a lot more heat staying in the attic. It's more work, but worth it to put them in all but perhaps the most difficult to reach places. I has some left of them over, so I put two and three sections in the south-facing part of the roof. The higher that heat is channeled, the better.
This UA-cam video is misnamed. It refers to baffles. The vents are on the outside of the attic to allow cool air from the eaves to enter the attic. The baffles may improve the airflow.
baffles need to be stapled otherwise they get blown out also should be bent at the ends to meet the ceiling
Those baffles were ALL pressed onto nails and held securely in place. As far as bottom is concerned the baffles are held securely in place with the batt insulation.
I would absolutely love to see a demonstration of someone doing the bend into the ceiling thing on a 4/12 sloped belly crawler attic that was not a new construction job.
@@LetZbucK75 agree its not easy and not fun but the only way you are going to get in to the corners from the attic is to pull back your insulation and get right in there so get a good fit and staple the baffles in
Roofer is right. Shoved in, the insulation should hold the baffles in place at the bottom. Most of my roofing nails did not stick down, so I had to staple further up. The top is easier to reach, so I stapled it there and as far down as I could reach. The polystyrene is flimsy, so I put small pieces of duct tape on it to staple through and prevent tearing. Keep in mind that although this is flimsy, it is in a attic where the only air flow is a slowly rising airstream. Also, you can make the stapling in tight places go easier with a hammer tacker that you swing like a hammer.
@@Inkling777 try using a slab nail or put a washer on to the nail to get more surface area. Also good idea with the tape but duct tape always fails and peels over time suggest using vapor barrier tape to add extra strength. I've never understood why they make the baffles out of such crappy material as they always eventually tear and fall down as the cross winds in the attic can get strong when the weather is inclement
@@LetZbucK75 im trying to do this now with a hip roof, its damn near impossible to get in there and staple the baffl
How much sofit is exposed for airfow to the baffles? If there stuffed all the way to the facia boards i dont se them working either.
All the soffit is exposed. That is the whole point of the baffles.
Never push them all the way to fascia
I’m having the issue in my roof where in the summer time my roof is cooking itself and the winter I get ice build up when installing the baffles are you supposed to c any daylight
Yes, you should see the daylight. But once baffle and batt are in place, you shouldn't see it anymore.
Audio in attic is already hard to make out and adding music makes it even harder.
Don't you need to clear the vent (not only taking out the batt), and staple the baffle in place? How do you know that you have proper airflow now?
Hey man, good video, I myself am a attic insulator and totally relate to the work in that video lol. Have done at least a hundred of those jobs lol. I also have an attic insulation channel if you want to check it out
Thanks brother
I'll check out channel for sure
you're not stapling them?
Will the rafter vents make the existing mildew/mold disappear ?
No. You should still remediate the mold. But the rafter vents will prevent it from coming back and will help with air exchange
Looks like the baffles you installed were not wide enough to fill the space between the rafters. But I understand you did not buy them but only installed what was there.
Agreed, I would have made custom ones and used expanding foam on the edges to fit.
You definitely would not have
How much did you charge for just installing these rafter vents?
I didn't charge. I'm a service technician at a large roofing company.
So they don't need to be stapled in place?
I just push them up into the roofing nails 💅
I just push them up into the roofing nails. Batt holds bottom in place and the roofing nails hold the top
If the roofing nails are not sticking out enough, you'll need to staple. If you've got a lot of these to install, it might be worthwhile to get a hammer tacker that will let you staple in tight places a lot easier. You swing it like a hammer.
why you turn music on-cant hear what he says
Did he not just cut the venting in half?
Music too distracting and loud.
I only have gable vents.
What did you use to walk in the attic? Well I guess I mean crawl
Cant speak for him, but 3/4 inch plywood sheets are a godsend for working in an attic, so you don’t step through the ceiling.
@@SailorJasonTaylor Quite right. I almost tumbled through my ceiling twice before I got wise to the problem. For a permanent solution, I took some scrap 2x10 wood. I cut it down to about a foot in length and put small pieces of plywood extending down on each side. That slips easily over the 2x4 rafters. I then connected two of them with a two-foot length of 2x10. That creates a stable platform that can be used to step around the attic. That beats the heck out of kicking and feeling through the insulation. Connect those platforms with longer boards and you can make a path through the attic that's positioned about 16 inches above the ceiling. That let me spread that much cellulose in my attic followed by a layer of attic foil and still get about.
What kind of hack work is this?
When the asphalt shingles need to be replace those bs vents then fall off and lay on the insulation!
You are clueless stop with the goofy comments
He is right they should be stapled
Well, I suppose it’s better than it was, but that’s not a very good baffle install. You can’t even tell whether the baffles are anywhere near where the air can flow from the soffit vents. And the mix of fiberglass and blown-in insulation certainly didn’t get put back in properly.
P
Do you have eyes on top of your head?, all those roofing nails and this man with shaved head avoids them all.
Haha lol I actually have quite a few Knicks on that bald head.