Replacing the Crank on a Yamaha 50TLR Outboard
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Link to crankshaft:
www.ebay.com/i...
Just me talking to myself while I replace the crank on my Yamaha 50 2 stroke.
In summer 2019 I was using the boat when the engine got louder, lost power, and finally seized up. After awhile it started reluctantly again. Ever since it ran poorly. I pulled the head off and say that the bottom piston had broken and caused damage in the cylinder.
I had the cylinders bored and put new pistons in.
It started up and ran great.
After getting it up on plane/ full throttle for awhile, I heard a squeaking coming from the top of the engine. At the time I thought it was just the flywheel hitting something.
Did more troubleshooting and it only would squeak after being on full throttle.
Spring 2020 came and the squeaking was bad. Check it out in this video.
• Yamaha 50 2-stroke out...
I order a new crank and took off the carbs, electricals, and oil tank. The crank kept getting back ordered due to the shortage centered around summer 2020.
Months went by before I could find a new crank.
After I got one, i installed it in this video.
So far so good.
I took one of my old wrist pins and cut down to when you get all the needles in you can slide it in and put grease on both sides to help hold the washers. I then slide my new wrist pin in and it pushes the cut piece out the other side perfectly. Hope this helps. don't forget to chamfer the side you cut for the alignment pin you make.
I'm about to attempt to replace some seals and crankcase assembly my Yamaha four stroke f115xb outboard once I get all the parts in. I appreciate you for creating this video!
Mantap guys Speedboat 😍😍😍😍
Have you ever done a cold start rebuild on one?
👍
Mate this has to be the most in depth dissasembly video i have seen so far which is great as i have a 87 40hp i have to do the same to ,you did a great job in showing every thing and how it goes back together excellent job .
Thanks. Hopefully it helps with your job!
@@michaeldownzer Gday mate that sealant you used on the crankcase is that a high temp silicon sealant as i cant find any locktite apart from thread locker here in aus so have to look for an alternative
@@crispernator locktite 518 is a thin anaerobic gasket maker for sealing two machined metal surfaces together.
It's really what you're supposed to use.
However the goal is to simply make an airtight seal at the crankcase. If you have an air leak you will make lean conditions, poor idle, and degrade your fuel pumps ability to pump.
Anything that can withstand petrole, oil, and water up to 300F will work as long as it seals.
You could try and find a high temp silicone rtv product that someone would use on an oil pan gasket or something. Just make sure you apply it thin, as half the excess material with end up inside the crankcase and could cause problems. However, I'd rather go slightly too thick then too thin.
You just want a thin skim coat of sealant
@@michaeldownzer Hi mate thats about all i can find is high temp silicon sealant ,they do have jb's sealant here as well other than that itis aviation gasket sealant thanks for the reply
@@crispernator you able to order anything through Amazon or eBay?
This isn't something you want to have to do twice lol
Good job brother it was a lot of work. Thank God the you remember put Everything back in the same place 👌
Thank you for this video. Will help me as soon as I get my flywheel off (Yahama 2 stroke 70B). At the moment it is corroded stuck to the top. Lubrications, taps and pressure up will not help. But now I know what is below it 😊
You are handy! Congrats! Just out of curiosity why did it need to be replaced?
@@lifeisfuneh well I had a piston fail.
I replaced that, and then I noticed it had a weird and loud squeak noise. It ended up being a bad bearing. The ball bearing right under the flywheel.
@@michaeldownzer Thank you!
Use a socket to chase the wrist pin through the piston
That's bold of you to assume I have the correct size socket, and further more, able to find the socket within my toolbox lol
But thanks. That's a good idea.
Hello I'm french and I got the same motor,I have a problem,your video is very interesting,thank you very much,sorry for my English,I don't speak very well English
I am glad the video helped you. :)
I know this is old but it’s not worth disabling the oil injection. They are bulletproof. Yamaha has the best of the best pumps.
I agree with you. I think it depends on the operator and how they maintenance the engine. I think most times it's the rubber lines that fail or their connections and not the actual pump.
I know everyone will have their own opinion but at the end of the day, it can't break if it's not even installed lol.
For me, mixing the oil at the gas pump was never an issue.
Gday mate just flicked onto this video to see if you had as much trouble as i am having getting the pistons back on and you did at least i know it is not just me ,your right all the stars have to align to get this right i spent 2 hours trying to get one piston on still havent got it and everytime you have to count the rollers to make sure you got them all , thought you might have a secret trick but just more experience at doing this i think .
Do you have a new crankshaft for a pro v 150 yamaha
Na man. I simply bought mine off eBay years ago.
@@michaeldownzer I have a 50hp 1986. Is this the same year? Trying to make sure it’s the same identical one because I know that they’re in years are different.
What year is the motor. I have a 1986 50hp and want make sure it’s the same identical thing
@@jalyray2840 i forget. Maybe a early 2000s. Like 2002 maybe
How much different can it be?
@@jalyray2840 lol probably pretty different. It should be easy to Google or figure out what model your engine is and get the correct parts from there
Hey man I put my Lott back to gather but it’s idling really high. What do you think is the problem?
@@jalyray2840 well, I would look at the throttle bodys and make sure they are able to fully close. Hopefully you can run the engine then tweak the idle adjustment arms down and watch the rpms drop.
The other thing would be the high and low screws on the carburetors. I would Google their factory settings and go from there. But my guess is your linkage for the throttle
Great father right there. That's the dad I aspire to be.
what is the brand of new crankshaft ?
I think wsm.
You have a great mechanical ability so kudos, but why go through all that trouble and not take opportunity to check and measure all the parts involved that can only be checked while disassembled? Something could be close or already past manufacturer specs that might show in the next 5 hours of use and now you have to do this again.
What would you have measured?
How to change a bumper? Is necessary take out engine or is other way?
Ok lol new question. Did you get the pistons out of through the bottom. Mine will not come out. Am I missing something
I split the case in half.
Then I pulled the crank away from the case and brought the pistons with it.
Pistons still connected to the crank.
I don't know how you would get them to come out of the top.
Again, maybe a rubber mallet and hammer them out of the cylinders.
Could be rusted/seized
Thank you for the very informative video!!
Did you consider just replacing the upper crank bearing? How much was the crank you purchased?
Yeah I thought about it but I figured If this one went bad then the rest were soon to follow. When I got the crank I think it was close to $500 bucks
@@michaeldownzer Oh ok. I’m sure the bearing is $150 by itself anyways.
How long did it run?
@@joshuaelliott9879 after I replaced the crank?
@@michaeldownzer no after you replaced the fuel in the gas tank? lol jk is it still runing now?
Is the wire going to the starter the ground or the hot wire I can’t find the diagram anywhere man I’d appreciate it if you give any feedback
So you have two wires going to the starter. In the installed orientation with the starter pointed up, the positive wire is at the bottom and is connected via the post with the nut that's tightens down.
The starter also has a dedicated full size ground wire that uses a bolt at the top to secure the ground wire.
This way the starter is always properly grounded.
On my engine, to the bottom left of the starter is the relay for both the starter and the engine trim motor.
There will be a big thick red wire from the battery to the relay. The other side of the relay will also have a big thick red wire that connects to the starter. It should be hard to.screw this up because the red wire from the relay to the starter is rather short and can only really reach the positive terminal post on the starter.
If you Google Yamaha 50TLR starter you'll see the silver post at the bottom for connecting the positive wire that I am referring to.
Ok I got it now thank you man I do have the red wire to the relay was just lacking sure the top one is the ground and the hot does go to the bottom I just rebuild my motor yesterday thanks to your video it went back together quickly thank you for responding
@@dirtysouthoutdoor2662 sweet! Glad I could help you as I fumbled through it myself lol
What torque do you tighten the crank cases and cylinderhead with? Cant find the specs on the web.
And a big thanks for a very entertaing and usefull guide. Helped me alot. 👍👍🙂
Most Yamaha engines I worked on had the torque spec stamped onto or into the actual case itself.
Are you sure yours doesn't have the specs literally written on the block?
@@michaeldownzer I have to check. I think I remember seeing some numbers that said in which order to tighten the bolts. I’ll look it up. Thanks for fast answer👍
@@joelgustavsson4988 no worries. Otherwise you're going to have to try Google lol
How’s the crank holding up ? About to get one from wsm as well
It was worth it.
scary
Right? This was not properly done at all.... F .. I bet it ran good I'm the yard watch the other motor Yamaha motor build on here his last video was it locked down. They had the right idea but the complete wrong ingredients. why even put 4 stroke motor oil I'm that bottom end lol. 👀👀
Probably a long shot but how did you get the power head separated from the lower. I have a 90 I'm trying to do and can't get em separated. I removed 8 bolts 3 on each side and the 2 in the front.
Look up the "base gasket" for the engine where the block mounts to the engine.
It could be ten bolts?
But by looking at how the base gasket is would show you where the bolts are.
If you're certain all the bolts are out then maybe start banging on your engine with a rubber mallet to brake it free.
I think the bottom of the crank is a spline for the shaft that goes to the lower end.
Maybe the splines are frozen to the shaft?
@michaeldownzer yea my bad it is 10. I had all 10 out still can't get it separated. I'll try some more things tomorrow.
Pshhhh. It's 11 bolts. Just realized it. 1 in the very back. Pshhhhh. I'm an idiot lmao
@@jjfishing1208 lol yeah man. That's why I suggested looking at a picture of the base gasket so you can see where the bolts are.
Glad you got if
Good job
🙏
where did you get the caps when doing the precision blend delete
I have never heard "precision blend".
The Caps I bought came in a multipack from AutoZone. They have various sizes.
What I had done was disable the oil injection pump. Then covered the ports with the Caps.
The most important part is to cover the small oil ports on the Reed block plate. That way extra air does not get into the engine.
I don't think I mentioned it, but at the 1:04:40 time stamp, you can see my three little hoses with the white check valves on the end. This does the same job.
@@michaeldownzer thank you i just did the delete today with the vacuum line caps like you used. precision blend is a name yamaha using for the oil injection system it says it right on the cowl of my 40hp yamaha. thanks again for the help
New crank shaft was made in China?
Most likely.
I'll post the eBay listing in the description.
I've used the boat all summer with no issues so far.
Also keep in mind that at the time of sourcing this crank shaft, I only knew of the OEM on that was out of stock for months from Yamaha due to the Pandemic shortages. After months of postponing the back order date of an OEM one, I cancelled my order and went to eBay to find one second hand. That's when I stumbled across this shaft. I called the guy from the listing and everything sounded legit.
For half the price, I got a brand new shaft and a complete gasket kit.
Awesome buddy !!!! What’s ur address I’ll send you my 2000 Yamaha 30 for a new crank . Did you figure out the kill switch debockle 👍🏻
Haha fortunately I had already pulled this one apart previously so it was very easy to work on the second time.
But yeah the Killswitch butt connector (the tan wire) wasn't making a good connection and wouldn't ground out the signal. So just wiggling the wire fixed it. Cleaned up the connector and everything is working perfect now.