B&H Prospectives: Realistic HDR Photography | Tim Cooper
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2014
- In this episode of Prospectives, Tim Cooper visits the B&H studio to discuss some realistic uses for HDR photography. He takes us through a few HDR composite examples and outlines the reasons for shooting high dynamic range images.
Tim Cooper Photography:
timcooperphotography.com
Tim Cooper's Event Space Videos:
Creating The Realistic HDR Image
• Creating The Realistic...
Creating Dynamic Landscape Photographs
• Creating Dynamic Lands...
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B&H Prospectives Video: Realistic #HDRPhotography with Tim Cooper bhpho.to/1pdaBlf via B&H Explora
Thanks B & H, great little video, enjoyed the information much!
In this episode of Prospectives, Tim Cooper visits the B&H studio to discuss some realistic uses for #HDR photography. He takes us through a few HDR composite examples and outlines the reasons for shooting high dynamic range images!
Tim is the best! I look EVERYDAY on B&H channel to see if there's a new video from him. Thanks!
LOVED this video!
Amazing work as always :)
one of the best videos on HDR photography, defining HDR itself is awesome. thanks B n H
Two words that should go together more often: tasteful HDR.
Tim is a really good teacher. I took a Lightroom class with him in North Carolina. Great class. Thanks for this video.
Great HDR video Tim. I shoot lots of HDR landscapes and architecture. Knowing new ways to set up my bracketing really comes in handy.
Thank you Tim Cooper !!! The Best HDR demystified in just 7 mins. Most fast paced, power lesson of B&H wrt to other 100 min long. Fantastic content, connect, communication. Mumbai
Wow, What a great description of HDR photography.
Great HDR tips! There are always new ways to take great HDR photos! No 2 situations are alike, thus, different HDR shooting strategies are required to render optimal results.
Nicely shot all pictures. Thanks for sharing
Perfectly explained..great!!!!!
Thank you Mr. Tim Cooper.
Very Well done, informative, short and to the point. Doesn't explain everything but enough for you to try and start using.
The ultimate message seems to be: you can do HDR in camera if yours allows or you can do it in post, but either way, don't _automatically_ trust your camera's choice of upper and lower bounds - and if you do, DEFINITELY be aware of how the camera makes its choices (and be prepared to change them as required and if possible).
Tim, excellent video on HDR.
My method is quite simple. Shoot RAW, Manual, low ISO and choose Aperture.
One image is taken and when I convert the RAW image to TIFF, I first convert for the shadows, next midrange tones and finally for the highlights.
Then blend the 3 converted exposures in Photoshop and the results are an HDR image.
Tried the bracket method and IMHO, both final images look similar.
Really shows how to use this technique tastefully. Great video!
classy pro with the keen eye, lots to learn from you I have
Very good HDR information I like it. Thanks.
Simply AMAZING!
Glad you enjoyed.
thank you dude, very helpful
this is awesome. thanks
Good tut, thanks!
Fantastic video :)
Hi, great walkthrough- I have a question about high volume workflows. I shoot real estate HDR, and I'm on a mission to find a workflow that will automatically group and merge my 3-shot bracketed exposures into the .DNGs. I'll leave a house with a couple hundred shots, and maybe 80 merges to do. Takes ages. Ever come across any automations for that? It'd be tricky- couldn't have any extra shots in the folder...
great learning video. thanks.
So, one thing that isn't covered in this is how you capture those dynamic ranges with the gorgeous clouds if the clouds move quickly. I know you said you are shooting at high rates of speed, but some of the older DSLR's (like my XSi) can only shoot up to 3 frames stacked at a time. How do I compensate for fast-moving clouds? Or something like shooting a waterfall/stream in HDR?
This is awesome.
Great video. Would love to see his process in Photoshop.
KEY WORDS: Realistic HDR. lol. People do horrible HDR's. Bracketing is another option and custom dodging and burning in Photoshop using layer masks! Dope work though!
So many people think HDR = yuch its fake..... people need to understand its not actually fake, its real photos of a real scene, but they are used to make a new type of style of that scene instead of typical ordinary pictures many would have taken :)
+yudontsay That's because people just drag and drop their brackated photos into photomatrix and use their horrible presets. That's not how you should do HDR photography.
Man, the last HDR tutorial vid I watched was an absolute bloodbath in the comments section (Topaz Labs feat. Captain Kimo). It's nice to see that wasn't the case with this video. I hate how negative people can be over HDR photography. I've always thought of the photography community as very pleasant and motivating. That was not the case with the last vid. Anyway, loved this video and am really getting the hang of this HDR thing.
B and H you guys should make more of this short tutorials, because it's hard to sit through those hour long tutorials.
Agreed!
... which we're still VERY thankful for ;-)
Nice HDR photos. Do you leave your aperture the same for each shot in the series? I've been told that keeping the aperture the same is necessary since changing it can change depth of field. Any thoughts?
Very good tutorial.
Good info! thx
How is the result from this method better than shadow and hightlight detail retrieval from a single image? (using all the related photoshop tools and techniques, layers, masks, brushes etc).
Doing that I've been able to make images that have as much detail as I want in shadows and highlights without them looking like HDR (I'm not talking about the images in this video - they are perfect. The HDR isn't overdone or done for effect).
So how will multi exposure HDR give me better results than the single exposure method I'm using?
Excellent video, but often I find HDR not even necessary. For example, if shooting a sunset, I somewhat underexpose to get the sky details (and lighten in Lightroom if I have too) and brighten the "shadows" slider in Lightroom so that the entire picture is perfectly exposed.
Thank You
Great HDR. You make it look great. Compared to ALL the HDR Ive seen. lol its trash. You actually make me want to give it a shot now. Thank you.
Dear Mr. Cooper, many thanks for the very informative video. Nice voice with dynamics drives your speech right where it belongs. Learnt a lot how to do it properly.
Canon 5D MK III has HDR feature built-in which saves much time. Please could you recommend a reasonably a priced software package such as Lighgtroom of PS Elements? Which one will have more feature can you tell me about the prices please. I want to watermark my images. Thank you. Best wishes Pat
nice video!
This was good but I would love to see a tutorial on the use of Photomatix itself to obtain realistic HDR, I think that is where most people go wrong.
Cool video
Hmm what we are seeing here is a HDR procedure that doesn't use exposure bracketing. It's about shooting 3 or more consequent pics, each one with different metering spots. This may need you to change your focusing point. If you don't, you should use focus-recompose. Wouldn't it be a bit tricky considering you'll have trouble aligning the shots?
bravo!
how difficult is it editing 3-5 images together in photoshop? do we have to buy a hdr-spicific tool in order to edit our photos, or do we just have to do it manually?
Photomatix Pro is a great tool
HDR rules!
I got a question: what are the differences betwen photomatix and the lightroom-hdr-module? Is this module good?
It comes down to personal preference. The benefits of Lightroom is you may output DNG RAW files, you may seamlessly group together with other images, and you may make very natural looking output. However, Lightroom does not offer batch processing, so you may only work on one HDR image at a time, and there are no tone-mapping tools to control how the colors are mapped together when reducing the tonal values.. Photomatix Pro does have designated tone-mapping tools available, allowing different ways to map your images to create either ultra-realistic images to painterly-type images. An extra benefit is it has the ability to batch process images, so if you are shooting HDR time lapse images, you may import and batch process all of your images simultaneously. The negatives with Photomatix Pro can be that there are too many controls, so if you aren't careful, your images may have too strong of an HDR look (you can view images that have had way too much HDR processing online using Google). Also, there is no option to output the final image as a RAW file for more control of the image after processing. It comes down to personal preference. I personally like Photomatix Pro because of the extra control during tone-mapping, but I would say download the Free Trial and try processing a few images using both software to see which you prefer.
Great video however I was wondering why you use the shutter speed to change exposure setting ie 1-stop 2-stops etc...instead of adjusting the exposure setting on the camera ? If you can over exposure & under expose doing it both ways which is better & why?
+Island Exposures The Exposure compensation range can vary from one camera to the next. In this video Tim happens to be working with a Nikon D4 camera, which offers +/- 5 stops of exposure compensation in 1/3rd stop increments. I can't speak specifically for Tim, but I believe he is working with the shutter in this case as he may be eventually making broader exposure changes that exceed what the Exposure Compensation setting would tend to allow. If he were to make 9 total shots and vary them by 1-2 stops each, the compensation feature in-camera would have not been useful for that particular shot. Further to that, many common lower tier DSLRs only offer Exposure compensation in +/- 3 stop range, so that would be even more of a reason to make the adjustments via the shutter.
As a side comment, when using the Exposure Compensation feature on the camera, its usually affecting the exposure by adjusting the shutter speed, so that your aperture will always be constant (so as not to change the focus or the depth of field - HDR is only used for still/scenic subjects so the shutter value never really matters if your changing it up/down). - Yossi
+B and H Thanks Yossi, you always have the best answers!
Camera sensors and raw file technology is so good these days that I have virtually ceased with HDR. What I mostly (sometimes only HDR being good enough) do is to open up the shadows and pull down on highlightes in Lightroom. and voila
I might ask what programs are good for this, I like the matrix program (hopefully spelled correct) it gives options on how severe it will look, from natural to grotesque the choice is yours. Or should I have said surreal. I'm sure there are others would like opinions..
A few programs I would recommend for processing HDR images would be *Hdrsoft Photomatix Pro 6.0 (Download),* _B&H # HDPMP6WM_ (or for a more economical option, the *Hdrsoft Photomatix Essentials 4.0 (Download),* _B&H # HDPME4WM,)_ *Skylum Aurora HDR 2019 (Windows, Download), **_B&H # SKAUR2019WIN,_** and *Skylum Aurora HDR 2019 (Mac, Download),* _B&H # SKAUR2019MAC._ Adobe Lightroom Classic CC has HDR built into the software using the *HDR Photo Merge* option. The links below are the links to the software on our website, but you may also consider visiting the manufacturer's website directly to see if there is a trial version you may download to test before making your purchase. There are fewer options for looks in the Adobe software, but as many people own Adobe Photoshop or Adobe Lightroom, that may be a good place to start. The *Adobe Creative Cloud Photography Plan with 20GB Cloud Storage (12-Month Subscription, Student and Teacher Edition, Download Card),* _B&H # ADCCPPSTE12,_ would be the software if you do not already own it. For more information, you can see the following link by either clicking directly on it or by copying and pasting the link into your internet browser's address bar:
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nice video
Great
This was awesome.. I will be trying some HDR soon, but my camera does not have the bracketing feature, can I still do HDR without that feature?
You don't need to have auto bracketing in order to do HDR; you can bracket manually. That is what Tim Cooper is doing in the video. In the example of shooting in doors, he brackets by exposing for the window (the brightest section of the scene) and then opening up by one stop increments by adjusting shutter speed. *Christina* askbh@bandh.com
B and H
Thanks Christina :o) That information is good to know.
Thanks B and H for your great video. I've a question. Are you shotting in: M, Tv or AV? Thanks in advance
+Daniel Sahagun I think for this one he's probably using either Tv or M since he mentioned he increased the exposure by decreasing the shutter speed.
+Helder Pinto Thak you very much for your answer. I really appreciated.
Not sure what camera and whose eyes are you using, but my camera can see 11-14 stop and my eyes can see around 14-16 stops. :P
so in other words dynamic range is like setting either a fast or slow shutter speed to compensate for what you are looking at
Is the location at 6:04 also in North Carolina? I'd love to know where it is if so
Please send your question directly to Tim at timcooperphotography.com
On the highlight side, it was plus 2 stops? That was 2 stops under wasn't it?
How did you managed to put tripod in the stairs ? :)
+Eren Alkan Each leg of a tripod can be individually adjusted so that the tripod could be positioned in the stairs in a manner where each of the legs may have its own step or possibly two of the legs share one step and the third extended shorter/higher as needed. - Yossi
I like using HDR but my detail in clouds is way over the top. I end up shooting a RAW shot just for the sky and a HDR of the ground to get solid, good looking results with next to no noise in the shadows. How can I avoid to much detail in the sky when shooting in HDR? My post work is good but can I get better shots out of my HDR three shot mix?
Though you state your processing is not the issue, from your description, it sounds like image capture and post-processing is where you are having the issue. If you are sure it is not post-processing, then you may not be capturing enough images to gather a wide enough dynamic range for your image. If you are capturing enough images, then the settings used when tone-mapping your images may be too strong. While I do not see the book "The Realistic HDR Image" from Tim Cooper in our inventory, and there are no HDR events coming up in our B&H Event Space (though Tim Cooper will be in the B&H Event Space teaching "Processing your Night Photography: Lightroom through Photoshop" on Monday, October 29, 2018), you may try purchasing his book for processing tips, check online or contact the manufacturer of your HDR tone-mapping software, or you may try contacting Tim Cooper with your inquiry through his website at www.timcooperphotography.com/contact.html.
My error in the use of the HDR software. You need to choose a master image to eliminate ghosting, then there isn't duplicate cloud edges floating around in the sky. As for noise in the shadows, the HDR software eliminates nearly all of it ... only if I keep my F stop at 8 or a MAX of 11. Problems solved. But now to tackle how to get sharp images fore and aft. Hyper focal focusing works but I want more so may layer in a very near shot into the HF shot and see how that works. It's a good thing I'm a printer by trade so all this computer post work isn't really work, just what is necessary sometimes.
I see many people using ND grads for outdoor shots. The Lee filters are very expensive but have issues as well (mostly in keeping them clean). If a Lee photo has a tall tree extending into the sky where the grad was, it has a darker cast to it and often the post work to lighten it leaves a glow around that area. This does not happen with HDR work but it does tend to saturate more so you simple tone it down to make it what you saw. Most people don't do that and being creative, push up the saturation and we see florescent green foliage - NOT REALISTIC at all. But that's where we're at right now. LOL Some people are out of control. LOL I enjoy all styles of photography as long as it's kept real, though it may need repairs, you kept it as you saw it.
I've a EOS 6D, and I know this Camera has 10 Stops of difference (not 5 stops) Is that right?
+Daniel Sahagun - Dynamic range is typically not listed by the manufacturer. Though, different third parties have tested the 6D to have a dynamic range of roughly 10-12 stops. Though, keep in mind that this will only be for certain ISO settings. Once you start to increase the ISO the dynamic range will drop significantly. *Christina* AskPhoto@bhphoto.com
+B and H Thank you so much for your answer. Know that was very important for me. Thanks again
In camera HDR is worth the price of the camera alone. I am taking pictures on a high end canon compact camera using HDR and the results are phenominal
B and H I know I'm late but what camera was time using? Thankyou.
B and H I mean Tim.
+Sour dudd I think it's a 5dMK3. Not that it matters, you can apply this technique to any dslr.
+Sour dudd He is using a Nikon D4, and that surely doesn't look like a 5Diii. canons are much contoured and stream lined and have smoother profiles fiitting well in hand, Nikons are angular and edgier with more grippy in feel.
"The camera only see 5 stops of difference"
This is categorically untrue. Even a non DSLR launched in 2008 (Panasonic Lumix DMC FX150) had a dynamic range of 9.6 Stops and all DSLRS have a range much higher than this going as high as 14 stops.
Having said that, the video is still pretty amazing. Also, do not follow Trey Ratcliff's tutorials, unless you want to end up with the "Acid experience" HDRs.
Source: www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Ratings/Landscape
there's no agreed on reference to measure dynamic range, thats why you see diferrent number
I agree, and our eyes can see way more than 11.
You are right. Our eyes can see almost 24 of dynamic range, some cameras go up to 14, and even more (Arri Alexa at almost 16). But, at each given scene, if it's either bright or dark, this is not the case. Our eyes do not work as a photocamera, because a picture is only one single moment in time. At eah induvidual moment of different lighting situations, our eyes is around 11 (some say 14), and cameras around 4-8.
***** needs to see this
What a lot of completely superfluous words.
If I heard him right, he says his camera sensor only sees 5 lv's. That = 31:1? If he's correct, I'd swap it!
+Stephen Mason most cameras only see 3, 5 is the max you will get.
He is being honest, a hard to find quality.these days. .
I cannot understand why they don't just make a sensor which can capture multiple ISOs at the same time... Why is that so difficult? Can't they just design it and say 'ok these pixels will be the lower third ISO, and these other pixels will be the upper etc..' And then merge the data. Sure you would lose some resolution, but at least you wouldn't have to take 3 separate photos (impossible when there's motion and no tripod!)
+51equinox why would you want to capture multiple ISO's? even 3 exposures at 100 ISO causes tons of noise in photomatix and usually needs correcting with stronger than processing software such as topaz and even that still affects some of the sharpness, if even 1 of the exposures had higher ISO that would make this issue even worse. any ISO higher than 100 is detrimental for HDR.
+Edgar Pifflewiff I'm not an expert on cameras, my point is instead of taking 3 separate photos are different ISOs (or different 'whatever') in order to create a HDR, why can't they just design the sensors inside the camera to do it all in one shot.
+51equinox The sony A7 (and others) have an auto HDR function that takes three shots and merges them automatically it works quite nicely. But yes I don't understand why it should be that difficult (I guess) to make a pixel that loses sensitivity the more exposure it gets. Just a simple resistor drain should do it so the more the pixel gets charged-up the more leaks away so it needs ever more light for that extra voltage. But I really don't know about sensor design. It would mess up the color rendition a bit I guess but that could be corrected. I have a 3ccd that has the peculiar ability to capture colored highlights in color, it becomes pure color like pure red but still color. For the rest it's quite a sucky camera but the colors are awesome.
Modern DSLRs have 14-15 stops of dynamic range, not 5.
In your last example @6:20 you didn't even need to bracket, your middle shot is exposed just fine.
I think you're mistaken. He's talking about a different thing.
+olegkikin it's 5 stops of LV's, not dynamic range, dynamic range is almost unlimited when you're merging countless photos together but to make it look similar to what your eyes see then you need 3-5 exposures of a very decent dynamic range camera
hello eric bana
or you could just use grad filters for landscapes...
HDR can look so fake though.
Stop using photomatix and start blending by hand. 99% of the time you'll get away with just 2 exposures.
For gods sake look at the camera when you are talking. Look at the viewer.
HDR is when you turn your photograph into a cartoon; it's like amature painters who think Bob Ross paintings are art and copy him.
Sorry to say. It dosen´t look realistic. Ok, the image is nice, but nor realistic.