W123 Vacuum system troubleshooting [PART 1] (Most Common Central locking problems) Plus DIAGRAMS!!!
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- Опубліковано 18 чер 2024
- If your central vacuum locking doesn't work on your older Mercedes, These are the first things I would check.
I'm also making vacuum diagrams, and plotting to touch every single component in the vacuum system, which spans from central locking, hvac, transmission control, emissions, brakes, and even turning the engine off!
This diagram drawing is going to take some time, but it'll be well worth it.
Key points in video:
0:00 Intro, Vacuum diagram info
1:25 Getting access to fuel door actuator
1:52 Tall man crams into trunk
2:14 What we will be testing
3:52 Vacuum Reservoir leak test
5:05 Fuel door Unlock test
6:05 Fuel door Lock test
6:29 Removing actuator to repair
6:55 Explanation of failure and plan to repair it
8:40 Repair attempt #1
9:50 Repair attempt #2
10:55 Success!
11:53 Vacuum diagrams are in the making.
Here is a link to the troubleshooting diagrams and everything you'll need to diagnose and repair the problems seen in this video:
➡trythistv.com/w123vacuum/
➡Mityvac kit I use: amzn.to/3cm7k4p
➡Just the mityvac without the case and extra stuff: amzn.to/3v3Deei
➡More affordable option: amzn.to/3t3QlKL
➡Vacuum line: amzn.to/3cfK0oF
➡RC car shock absorber boots: amzn.to/3vbWt5C (46mm are the ones you want)
(Links used may be affiliate links, which could earn me a small commission if you choose to purchase via one of those links) - Авто та транспорт
Thanks! Very helpful info. The locks are woriking again!
Thanks for taking the time to make this! Tackling one of the most frustrating things you can troubleshoot on a w123!
Thanks! Very helpful info. The locks are working again!
Fantastic! Glad your locks are working!
Én lecseréltem már a csomagtartó zárat.
Üdv :András😊
Hey Jarod! You are a legend! Here in South Africa we have endless vacuum problems due to our dry climate! This tip is invaluable, thanks so much, my 230e and 200 123 will now be sorted!
I can imagine the heat and sun has to take a toll on all the rubber components. East TN feels hot to me, and I've got rubber seals and such degrading everywhere, but man it has to be a lot more intense for you.
I'm still planning on getting the rest of the vacuum diagrams drawn up, as well as make some more videos about some of the other temperamental vacuum components in the future as I keep on my journey of solving all the little quirks with my blue car. (And then I'll move onto my Grey car)
I'm also super excited I've got viewers all the way over in South Africa, and that you guys are w123 fans too! Thanks so much for the comment!
Very good job, like always. Thanks for sharing.
This is going to be a great series. 👍
Thanks for sharing.
Very informative thank you
Waiting for your detailed vacuum system repair for W123. Great video.. Very well done. Thank you
Lol I'm trying! I really want to have more time for videos and some of these more fun projects, my business keeps getting in the way, which I do enjoy quite a bit as well, but I'm itching to get back to some stuff on my car!
Thank you again for taking the time to make your "how to" videos on the w123. I recently picked up a 1982 300D and your videos have really helped me out!
Glad to help! I've got loads more stuff planned if I could ever break free from work for a while to get it all together into a half decent presentation lol
I have a w126 model but your diagram is a godsend, very easy to understand…thank you
Happy to hear it! I'm very slowly working on finishing it, along with some other cool projects.
Just found your channel and thanks do much for sharing your knowledge. Especially the vacuum diagram! Kind regards from Vancouver Canada!
Glad to help! I'm still trying to improve the diagram on and off, it's been a bit since I've done much more on it, but I should see what else I can tidy up. A good diagram goes a long way figuring out problems!
Very good knowledgeable video
Thank you! I'm still working on completing the diagrams, summertime is miserable for my own projects since I have a mostly seasonal job so I'm hoping to get back at this very soon and get some nice diagrams cranked out, and some videos about the transmission vacuum system and other points that may need attention
This is a really useful series. Thank you. Could you do a video just showing all the connection points that you need to test, starting in the engine bay I’m going through the whole car? It doesn’t need to show vacuum testing with the pump, literally just all the points so that users can check that they have tested them all. Thanks a lot.
I'm planning on doing a test document like I have for the cruise control with test points and vacuum levels expected/wanted at each connection, but I started this project right as the busy season for my business started so I'm a bit slow making progress on progress on my videos and stuff 😟
What a great diagram. My 77 240 d has been worked on by careless mechanics and therefore parts are missing and vacuum leaks persist. The gas door actuator and storage tank seem difficult to access. Thanks for your videos though, very helpful !!!
Thank you sir! I'm still planning on revising the diagrams more as I have time, it really is something desperately needed by anyone who has one of these cars.
I feel your pain too, figuring out what the previous owners/mechanics have done to stuff is a real challenge.
Awesome solution...
Got w123 still working on restoration
It certainly takes some time to restore a car. I need to deal with my paint, the sun has taken its toll, time for a respray. Hoping I can get that done over the winter, the car will look so much nicer, I'm quite confident in the mechanical aspect of my car now, so I'm wanting to get it looking a little nicer!
@@trythistv i may lean on you for mechanical input cos is my first car and i am trying to work it myself no good w123 mechanics around. Then you came along. Thanks
@@muhdaminuabdullahi8601 I'll certainly try to help however I can, I've got more videos of things on my car I want to film and get on here, hoping to get some time away from work so I can get them done!
Amazing content, very helpful. My 1985 300d is definitely leaking vacuum somewhere because the door locks work, and the AC works and blows cold most of the time but lately it doesn’t blow as powerfully as it should. Also, the trunk unlocks only half the time, and the transmission shifts hard and “rev’s” very annoyingly from 2nd to 3rd which i assume could all be vacuum related? I had my vacuum lines overhauled (specifically related to the door locks) a year or so ago and they work well thankfully but there’s definitely still some vacuum leaking somewhere i suspect in regards to the aforementioned issues and ya know sometimes if you want something done right you have to do it yourself!
Sounds like some suspicious vacuum related stuff going on. I'm planning on doing a video about the transmission adjustments and vacuum system related to shifting, but I struggle to find time around my work, but it is in the works slowly!
If you have a vacuum leak related to the transmission it would tend to shift very harshly and slam into gear rather than feel like its slipping and flaring, if your vacuum system has been touched before it is possible a hose was misplaced and is causing excessive vacuum which would make it slip/flare on shifts.
man i would love to see you do a video on how vacuum is utilized in conjunction with the transmission
I can confidently tell you it is in the works. This time of year is super difficult for me to make videos with how crazy my work is, but I am 110% doing a video all about the transmission vacuum, as well as bowden cable and all that good stuff. It will happen eventually!
I agree with Lester Loves Watches below. If you could start from the vacuum pump and guide us through the complete system you would be a God. I can't fine anyone to do a complete system check so I can decide what needs to be fixed first. Giving the connector hose and check valve sizes would help a great deal as well.
Thanks for all of your help.
I'm going to get back on this project soon, I plan on making a comprehensive video and printable diagram/written guide on what every vacuum component does and how to adjust/fix each part of the systems.
I tend to have more free time to work on my stuff in the wintertime, and we're seeing our business winding down so hopefully I can get some time to get back to this very soon!
amazing! I Just discovered your video in my search for a vacuum diagram! curious if you've had any more progress? I'm eventually getting to my lock system but am focused on the engine bay for now, for the life of me cant find anything to follow, its idle high and I see some unattached hoses that need to find their proper homes... Thanks for putting in the effort to share your knowledge! much appreciated.
I'm making very slow progress, This is my busy season for work so that slows me down a bit.
Plus I'm also figuring out what all has been modified on my cars vacuum systems in the process, its hard to find a factory condition example of a car to copy routing and colors from anymore, I bet it'll cure a lot of the fiddly little issues as I get it more sorted though.
Keep an eye on the website (trythistv.com/w123vacuum/), I've posted a few updated diagrams now and then (been a few months as of right now since the last update, but I am still working on them, albeit slowly)
Hey Jarod, thanks for your video and diagram. It has definitely helped me in fixing my ' 83 turbo. What size rubber boot are you using on the actuator- 36 or 46mm. Thanks
Hi there! I used the 46mm boot. I'm unsure how long it will hold up but it has been working great ever since I did it, locks don't leak down, even hours after parking the car everything unlocks smoothly. Glad I've been able to help out! There is so much more I want to do, and will be doing as soon as I can get some free time from work!
thank you....very clear report. Where can I find Part 2 onwards?
I'm still working on the continuations. 😢 Work has been keeping me busy, but I am still planning on getting the diagrams finished up, and accompanying videos as well. As my work season is finally dying down a tiny bit, I will be able to get working on the vacuum info once again! 😃
great video! Question for you. When testing the vacuum on your reservoir, you mentioned it required "a lot of pumps". How many pumps would you say?
I'm troubleshooting some vacuum system issues with my '79 300td wagon. Malfunctioning are the door locks and the engine takes a while to shut off after the key is turned to the off position.
I've isolated it to the the reservoir. When I remove the yellow line with grey stripe from the Y connector in the engine bay (goes to the reservoir) and then plug that connection point in the Y with a golf tee, the engine turns off normally. It doesn't seem to be the line because, when I plug the line back into the Y connector in the engine bay, then disconnect from the reservoir and plug that end of the line, the engine also turns off properly.
I connected to the reservoir with my Mityvac and pumped for several minutes and the gauge doesn't budge. Does this mean the reservoir is the problem or do i need to pump for 10 minutes to fill the reservoir? I've read that it's EXTREMELY rare for the reservoirs to fail.
Oh and one more question. Is the fitting on the actual reservoir replaceable and susceptible to failure? I'm talking about the male piece that the tubing slides onto, not the tubing itself.
It should move after maybe 50-100 pumps, it may not be very high but it would have enough that when you disconnect the hose you'd see the gauge jump a little back to zero and hear it make some kind of fssssss as the vacuum dissipates.
I've not heard of a reservoir itself fail, but I've heard of plenty of the rubber fittings on them failing and leaking, but if you shoved something into the trunk it could crack the tank, it is just plastic after all.
I'm assuming you plugged into the reservoir literally at the fitting in the trunk? because it is possible that the hose or a rubber fitting somewhere from front to back of the car has failed, but you'd be ruling that out by testing at the tank itself in the trunk.
You could use a small amount of pressure, or even smoke to see if it is leaking, they make machines that generate smoke at a very low pressure to make finding vacuum leaks very obvious, or you could blow up a balloon and then attach it to the hose that leads to the reservoir and see if it deflates.
Great video.. Thank you! Do you still have your W123? I have had mine for about 12 years and just getting around to doing a lot more work on it. Thanks for the videos.
I do indeed, I actually have 2! The blue 1982 300D that is in most of the videos, and my Grey 300D that is also a 1982 model year, however it has been 4 speed swapped, 2.88 rear diff, 2 tank WVO system, k26 turbo swap and some other minor adjustments here and there to make it a fun little car.
We just took a 1500 mile trip in the blue car, I'm working on these vacuum diagrams more, and arranging things to make a few videos soon documenting the 1500 mile trip, what went wrong on that trip, and the next parts of the vacuum system that I want to tackle!
@@trythistv well I enjoyed your video and most importantly I didn’t even know I had a fuel door lock and sure enough checked after your video and there it is my mightvac arrives In about a week. Today I did a power steering flush. I love working on this car. I will post a video on a dome light repair/rework soon.
Hi, I’m new to learning about these w123s
So basically the w123s use a vacuum system instead of an electrical system to : open locks, ac function,pw function,side mirrors, transmission, egr etc.?
I don't believe the windows or mirrors have had any vacuum elements, but yes, locks, hvac stuff, transmission pressures, egr, and probably some assorted things I'm forgetting.
It seems foreign and weird coming from more electronic controlled cars of today but its not terribly hard once it clicks for you. Rotten rubber fittings and cracked plastic vacuum parts will be your big problems.
so I took the driver door panel off, & tested the actuator; needs replacing. I also hooked up the vacuum pump to the 3 lines there. The solid yellow line holds no vacuum; the 2 striped ones do; any thoughts?
The solid yellow should be supply, it may be tied in with the reservoir in the trunk, so either the reservoir, fitting or hose somewhere along the way may be leaking, or it may just take a ton more pumps to build vacuum.
But with that being said, that hose may also be the one that goes to the vacuum pump stuff under the hood, so you may be trying to put vacuum on the vacuum pump with that hose.
There is supposed to be some check valves, I've got where I believe they are on the diagram, but if those are bad it could cause some weird leaky non locking issues.
Also, the actuator at the driver door may not be an actuator at all, at least on my 82 300D's the drivers door has the master switch and no actuator, so it controls the rest of the locking system, but cannot be locked or unlocked from anywhere else.
@@trythistv ok, thanks. Yes I should say master switch for driver door; well, once I install that I will keep my fingers crossed & hope vacuum just needs building up in the system; it's been down for many months; the lines actually look to be in good shape all over; no signs of brittleness or age; I did test 1 check valve under the hood, which tested good.
Is that a place to search for issues with slow moving door locks? And locks losing vacuum after a few hours?
Absolutely! I would highly suspect the fuel door lock, as that was the cause of my slow locks and losing vacuum after a while. Now it takes days to bleed down.
Hey Jarod! I have been watching your videos and got many issues resolved on my w123 85 . Last year I have changed all visible vacuum connectors coz one of them has a crack and it has been working fine untill this week . This week almost every day we have in ga about 100 degrees, and my car during the day time when it is really hot does not shut off as it should it takes about 40-45 seconds before it stop. Early in the morning and late evening when the tempratures are low it works fine, any suggestion , where and what to look for? thanks in advance
That has to be a vacuum leak somewhere. Check what I do in this video: ua-cam.com/video/867EaMUxUKs/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared&t=47 starting at around 45 seconds, that 4 way connector controls the HVAC, Locking system and shutdown too, so if your locking system or hvac system is leaking, your shutdown will be slow or non-functional entirely.
Thanks a lot for a quick response HE may bless you , You are always a good help for many of us. @@trythistv
Once again thanks , I was trying to buy the RC car shock absorber boots through the link in your video they pop up with two different sizes 36 mm and 46 mm, which size would be the right one? @@trythistv
@@teesaeed6529 I just checked and I bought the 46mm ones. I'll have to add that tidbit in
so if the door locks are not working the cause could be a door actuator itself, the master actuator of the driver door, a broken vacuum line, and/or the components in the trunk?
Right. The whole locking system is tied together, any leaking component could make the entire locking system malfunction, or be weak.
Mine has been working very nicely since the repair on the fuel door actuator.
@@trythistv OK, thx. I just ordered a vacuum tester today, so will be tackling that issue this weekend I hope!
How similar is this system set up to the one in the W116 cars? I have a 1980 300SD
Nearly identical. My first car was a 1980 300SD, it was a machine and a half.
The big difference in vacuum system is the w116 models did not have EGR, so all that plumbing is just gone, the locking system and everything else should be the same.
@@trythistv ok, thx!
Awesome video and fix! Somehow my vacuum seems out of sync with the position of my locks. I’ve tried manually adjusting them and they hold vacuum but won’t get in sync with the master lock switch. Anyone ever experience this or have any suggestions? Happened when a locksmith was repeatedly trying a key copy he made for me. We’re working perfect before then. Thanks!
I'd be very suspicious that something got knocked loose, or bent inside the door, there is a little master vacuum switch connected to the lock on the drivers door, perhaps the hoses are attached in the wrong order? or the linkage or such is not putting the valve in the proper positions?
@@trythistv somehow my old 300d fixed itself. the locks are back to normal so not sure what happened but ...i'll take it!
@@danrauch9780 Ah, Self healing problems are the best lol, glad your locks are working again!
So I'm pretty sure this is the problem with my vacuum system. But I got a question.
If I don't want to go through the hassle of repairing or replacing this white pod thingy, could I just unplug the two hoses going to it, and clamp them off to stop the leak? I already have a locking fuel cap anyway.
Absolutely. You could plug the lines going to the pod with golf tees, bolts, anything else vaguely plug like, or you could remove the tee that splits the line to the pod and replace it with a couple inches of vacuum hose.
@@trythistv You star!
@@trythistv Sometimes you gotta improvize. I found an old EU phone charger plug. Turns out the two prongs line up perfectly with the mentioned lines, and are just the right diameter. Now my doors lock AND unlock again. :D
Your diagram show green as lock and red as unlock. Every other forum and video ive seen, says the opposite, the say red is lock and green is unlock. How do i know for sure, im confused? I have a 1981 240D
Oh nuts. I made the little legend backwards. Red is for lock, Green is unlock. I'll fix the diagrams shortly!
No worries, glad we figured it out. Thank you for all the work you've done, its really helped me understand my vehicle vacuum system and have now fixed every leak and everything works for the first time in years. Thanks again!@@trythistv
so today, 3 areas of the car stopped working: engine shut-off, door lock control from driver's door, & HVAC; should I start with the vacuum pump itself?
This is hilarious timing. I'm working on another part of this vacuum video series, and I had the exact same problem. Door locks, engine shutdown and HVAC controls all stopped. What you want to look at is right near the oil filter area there is a x shaped vacuum coupler thing, it has brown with yellow stripe, green with yellow stripe, and a big yellow check valve that has yellow and yellow with a grey stripe. If you check the diagram on the website, in fact the thumbnail for the article on the website shows that part, but the diagram also shows it, and the brown and yellow is the shutdown circuit, green with yellow stripe is HVAC, and the yellow check valve feeds all the central locking controls. My HVAC pod for the floor vents ruptured and was the cause of my problem, but you can narrow it down by pulling each of those 3 out of that coupler and plugging it off with a golf tee or something and see if the other item start working. Hopefully that makes sense for you!
@@trythistv thx, it was a cracked 4-way coupler!
Yup, that goofy 4 way coupler got me too not long ago. I fixed it and then ended up with a ruptured vacuum pod
How is part 2 coming along?
Very slowly 😥I've been so busy with work I haven't done a lot, I have puttered on the diagrams a tiny bit, but haven't hit it with a solid effort yet. I'm hoping to be done with the jobs that have strict deadlines within the next few weeks so that I'll have time to draw some of the diagrams and move onto the next portion I want to cover in video format too.
Are this system same as W124 ?...
The hoses and routing are vastly different on a w124, these diagrams basically only apply to federal w123s with the om617 turbo engine, I hope eventually to expand and make diagrams for other models but it is quite time consuming and I doubt anyone wants to loan me their car for long enough to disassemble and chase all the vacuum lines needed to make the diagrams.
I'll find cars to use somewhere eventually!
Hello Wondering if you could help
I have a 1981 300SD Turbo Was running fine But now Starts fine Runs 3 seconds Then shuts off ... Even if I Give it gas Idols hi Still shuts off After starting 3 Second later Wondering if you have any advice ? Or came across that issue before I would think that it would be the shut off Velve But how can it be stuck open Let me know if you can help thanks
I would disconnect the vacuum line to the shutdown pod, should be brown with a blue stripe near the injector pump under the hood and try again.
@@trythistv Thanks bro for a responderback I just wonder how can That be stuck Is there something causing it to make a Constant vacuum I am going to try that then try starting it Disconnecting the Shut off valve I'll keep you up to date But do you know anything else that would cause that issue it's strange Car runs fine for 3 Seconds Then dies I can even accelerate it It accelerates and dies in 3 Seconds So that's what I was thinking the safety shut off Valve But how would that be possible 🤔
So the cars vacuum pump feeds a line that goes to the ignition switch, which then stops vacuum from getting to the shutdown pod if the switch is in the run position. When the key is switched off, the switch applies vacuum to the shutdown pod and it parks the rack in the injector pump, forcing the fuel off basically. So if something is wrong with your hose routing or keyswitch stuff, it could be applying vacuum to the pod constantly, and you'll only get vacuum built after a few seconds of running, it'll bleed off when the engine shuts off.
@trythistv Wow that's crazy ... There was something messed up with the car The ignition switch I had to drill it out .. And replace with another ignition switch ... Put the Back Of the Key assembly units Was disconnected Like you can start with the screws driver ... Did not notice until after Replacing the ignition switch I'm wandering with the combinations It's causing It to stop Pretty strange but never worked on diesel before lol If you have any pointers let me know thanks If you ever need any help with electronic repair Let me know
@@QsTechService1 Yup, I'm sure that's it. Because the diesel runs without spark, it has to have a physical means of shutting off, either cutting the fuel supply or the air supply, Get that sorted out and you'll have a fun car!
I just bought a hot air rework station with the hope of repairing some ECUs from Seadoos, I'm just learning how to use it, I've done thru-hole soldering and basic wire splicing type stuff, but SMD is a whole new adventure.
I'm watching your video on your car right now, it looks great honestly, going to need some cleaning and some window and door seal type stuff, but that car will last a long time!
Keep me posted on how it goes getting it all up and running!
Hi there, did i miss the Part 2?
I have been slowly updating the diagrams on the website but have not gotten around to making the next video, I want to do the climate control and transmission vacuum systems real soon, but work has been keeping me obnoxiously busy as it tends to every summer.
Wait so what is the fuel door acctuator for?
It locks the fuel door shut when the car is locked
@@trythistv ohh so it has nothing to do with fuel being sent to the engine bay correct? cause when I went ahead and took out my fuel tank to clean it i stumbled upon that weird ball tray that sits on top of the fuel tank and wondered what it was for.
The ball tray looking thing is likely the vacuum reservoir for the locking system, but yeah the fuel door actuator has nothing to do with fuel delivery, on the diesels the only thing controlling fuel is the lift pump and injector pump itself, the cars will run and drive flawlessly with no electronics. I had my alternator die once and didn't notice until the radio shut off, and lights were too dim to drive anymore lol
Aah yes so I can fit a body with ease.
More than one if you don't mind stacking them up a little bit!
@@trythistv NOICE!
Links to diagrams and everything you'll need to diagnose and repair the problems seen in this video:
trythistv.com/w123vacuum/
Mityvac kit I use: amzn.to/3cm7k4p
Just the mityvac without the case and extra stuff: amzn.to/3v3Deei
More affordable option: amzn.to/3t3QlKL
Vacuum line: amzn.to/3cfK0oF
RC car shock absorber boots: amzn.to/3vbWt5C (46mm are the ones you want)
(Links used may be affiliate links, which could earn me a small commission if you choose to purchase via one of those links)
My locking system has gone from bad to worse that the car does not switch off and I can't open the trunk and haven't got the key's to it,getting the write person in Cape town that is not going to give you incredible long stories about this problem and charge you,I'm looking for that honest person 😏
Well I'm not in cape town, but I feel your pain. Finding anyone half knowledgeable with these cars that isn't going to charge 4 arms and 7 legs for a simple vacuum problem is a bit of a challenge anymore.
Normally the same ignition key also fits the trunk, unless perhaps you have a key cut on a valet blank, which wouldnt fit the trunk or glovebox, and solving that may be as simple as getting the key copied onto a "master" blank. Otherwise, you may be able to isolate the hoses in the passenger kickpanel/floor area and use a mityvac to try unlocking the trunk
@@trythistv You are exactly write of overcharging and I haven't a key that fits the trunk 😏