Yeah, noticed that as well. Replaced a Getz bearing the other day but managed to remove the ABS sensor intact. If you're quoting for a wheel bearing, you might want to incorporate the price of the sensor just in case. You can always return it, if you manage to extract it in one piece. It's easy to come down in price, never easy to raise it once it's been quoted on. But the flange removal was hilarious, , a couple of hits with a hammer and socket while holding the hub assembly, is not going to cut it when remove the flange, unless you can generate about 10 tons of force. I know I can't, that's why I have a press. Cutting the inner cone with a cutting blade in your angle grinder is a viable option AFTER you remove the flange, unlike the video which shows it already pre-cut. Overall, nice video, just not realistic.
Thanks for the video, concise and clear. This video confirmed the process I thought it might be. Helpful for retired mechanics like me who haven't had to touch the tools in a long time and isn't ashamed to seek info.
Thank you for your feedback! To save the time in the video some stages of the repairs might have been excluded.. In practice the torque wrench should be used. Best Regards, Autodoc.
Great video easy to follow and informative but doesnt stress the importance of cleaning the bearing housing prior assembly. Great he scraped the retaining ring slot but didnt blow or clean out the housing then applied grease with dirty gloves?
Glad I'm taking mine to the mechanic not gonna buy all these tools to do it myself, seems like a common issue with Getz cars, mines gone at 123,000km which I was told is very early but looking through the comments probably not.
@@autodocuk no worries really makes me appreciate the work mechanics put in just to change one small part, blows my mind how many steps there are and how dangerous it is to drive with it damaged/worn.
Thank you for your comment! Unfortunately, it is not possible to answer your question for sure, there may be a lot of reasons, we recommend contacting the service for a complete diagnosis and identifying the cause of the problem. Best Regards, Autodoc team
Infelizmente, não podemos mostrar todas as nuances e problemas ao substituir, tudo isso é individual e nem sempre é possível resolvê-los em casa. Para evitar isso, recomendamos sempre que as substituições sejam feitas em serviços especializados. Se tiver alguma questão, não hesite em contactar-nos. Os melhores cumprimentos, AUTODOC
He did the whole thing in less than 30 minutes. I'm probably going to get stuck a few times have to buy a new tie rod end or something and take 8 hours.
+joe king Thank you for the feedback! This video is purely informative therefor we highly recommend to service the vehicle at a certified repair shop. Anyway, you are absolutely right about the use of torque wrench and other special tools. Best regards, Autodoc.
If you look at when he for example hit the hub out of the knuckle assembly, you can see he has already cut a groove in the bearing race. This is a vital part of the bearing replacement procedure as simply hitting the bearing race left on the hub is never going to work.
Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including the one you mentioned. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
1. pressing in the new bearing was done with the old bearing, which is ok, but, the dolly on top of that was diameter of the inner race carrier, therefore the load on top of the new bearing is through the inner race, which loads up the balls transferring load to the tight outer race new bearing. No good.The dolly on top of the old race used should have been same OD or a fraction less as the ouert race & a bore much larger than inner race. This is a typical example of why new bearings growl right from the start or soon after. Keep rattle guns away from bearing assemblies. 2. Agree torque wrench must be used on nut 150-190 Ft. Lbs 3. didnt clean out the circlip groove crap with air or cleaning fluid. Iam up to LH bearing #4 on my 2016 hyundai i20. Fitted by dealer under warranty. as new lasted 15000k, 2nd no good from start, #3 RS at 23000k, #4 not in yet.
So body in this comment section points out the problems: letting brake caliper hang by rubber hose, impact wrench to the axle nut.... This is not good mechanic behavior
All your vids are ok to get the general way to do a repair. But in details many bad practices. Your vids are intended to novice home builders. So you should show the example of good and bad practices. For example: You don't use impact wrench sockets, never replace old pins with new ones, torque wrench, what is it ? These details sometimes proceed to accidents.....
Thank you for the feedback! The video is informative and shows only the general principles of the constitution and the operation of the car and it is in no way to be taken as a manual for repair and maintenance. Best Regards, Autodoc
Don' t agree with your answer, if you call this a tutorial, you have to be perfect on this points because some newbies will take you video as a reference. Just one question, are you car professionals or just handymen ?
@@JorgeRamirez-ig6tv I did the same a couple of times, scoring with a thin cutting disk on an angle grinder. If I may make a suggestion though : doing this diy is so much cheaper than taking it to the dealer that one might as well do it RIGHT : buy a new hub, around $20-25 ( aftermarket ) and install the new bearing on it. Cool hub in the freezer and heat the bearing to around 100 Celsius. Easy peasy, quick, aggravation free and perfect. One could also make a custom puller ( I did..) but that's not a walk in the park and it's pricey - a decent piece of steel is more than $20 and then it's a couple of hours in front of the lathe and mill. Not worth the trouble. Something else I learned over the years, the HARD way, is to only install bearings from reputable manufacturers !!! Can't stress this enough. These are preloaded angular conatct bearings with special seals and any shortcut will bite hard - they won't last a year. Usually, they don't die from wear - they die from water seepage past bad seals. Seals may be marginal from the manufacturer or (!!!) may be invisibly damaged when the bearing is pressed into the wheel carrier with a "socket". Also, it is fundamental to scrupulously clean all surfaces the bearing butts against, driveshaft including or the rust will "give" slightly after a while and the bearing will be lose. Use a torque wrench and tighten them to around 250Nm. A normal ( 100Nm ) wrench with an extender will do as well. See formulas for the new torque when an extender is added on YT...
THE best how to vid on the subject. Straight to the point with no unnecessary content.
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was useful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
I laughed when the hub came out with 1 tap of a hammer
I realize I'm pretty off topic but do anybody know of a good site to stream new tv shows online?
@Korbin Brayan I would suggest Flixzone. Just google for it =)
@Korbin Brayan i watch on Flixzone. You can find it by googling :)
Good video did notice when was prying out old ABS sensor 4:45 it must have broke as usual so in next clip new ABS sensor being pulled out 5:06
Thank you for your feedback.
Sensors usually stick to their places and it is very difficult to get the whole.
AUTODOC
Yeah, noticed that as well. Replaced a Getz bearing the other day but managed to remove the ABS sensor intact. If you're quoting for a wheel bearing, you might want to incorporate the price of the sensor just in case. You can always return it, if you manage to extract it in one piece. It's easy to come down in price, never easy to raise it once it's been quoted on. But the flange removal was hilarious, , a couple of hits with a hammer and socket while holding the hub assembly, is not going to cut it when remove the flange, unless you can generate about 10 tons of force. I know I can't, that's why I have a press. Cutting the inner cone with a cutting blade in your angle grinder is a viable option AFTER you remove the flange, unlike the video which shows it already pre-cut. Overall, nice video, just not realistic.
Thanks for the video, concise and clear. This video confirmed the process I thought it might be. Helpful for retired mechanics like me who haven't had to touch the tools in a long time and isn't ashamed to seek info.
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thanks for the instructions, this helped me greatly. First time changing a hub and bearing, your video was clear and easy to follow. Thank You
We are glad that this video was useful to you!
This is actually simpler than most of the PC and phone repairs I have done. Its just having all the right tools though.
Chrome socket on an impact gun? Good idea 😂😂😂
i would like to see more vedios of maintainance gets, thanks for this one
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Is there any video available with you related to complete dashboard removal for Hyundai Getz
The front end set up is pretty much the same as on a 2001 to 2006 Hyundai Elantra. So if you have en Elantra then this video would be a good help too!
Thanks for the clarification, your comment will be useful to many of our viewers.
Excellent video but no use of torque wrench is bad practice..
Thank you for your feedback! To save the time in the video some stages of the repairs might have been excluded.. In practice the torque wrench should be used. Best Regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk and setting is ?
@@jack01380 in the workshop manual.
I’m just trying to replace the lug studs. Do I have to do all this?
Thank you for your comment!
Unfortunately, for a more accurate answer, we need more data about your car.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Great video easy to follow and informative but doesnt stress the importance of cleaning the bearing housing prior assembly. Great he scraped the retaining ring slot but didnt blow or clean out the housing then applied grease with dirty gloves?
it's only a Getz, not an E36.
Glad I'm taking mine to the mechanic not gonna buy all these tools to do it myself, seems like a common issue with Getz cars, mines gone at 123,000km which I was told is very early but looking through the comments probably not.
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
@@autodocuk no worries really makes me appreciate the work mechanics put in just to change one small part, blows my mind how many steps there are and how dangerous it is to drive with it damaged/worn.
Hey team I'm getting sound on the left side wheel in the turnings. Whats the problem? and how to fix that?
Thank you for your comment!
Unfortunately, it is not possible to answer your question for sure, there may be a lot of reasons, we recommend contacting the service for a complete diagnosis and identifying the cause of the problem.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Very Good, see for more video is realative
GOSTAVA DE PERCEBER COMO E QUE A CAPA DO ROLAMENTO APARECE JA CORTADA
Infelizmente, não podemos mostrar todas as nuances e problemas ao substituir, tudo isso é individual e nem sempre é possível resolvê-los em casa. Para evitar isso, recomendamos sempre que as substituições sejam feitas em serviços especializados.
Se tiver alguma questão, não hesite em contactar-nos.
Os melhores cumprimentos, AUTODOC
Thanks, I just wish I had the tools required for this
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
tabxmaux
No torque specs on bolts and nuts?
You can find this information in the technical documentation for repairing your car.
He did the whole thing in less than 30 minutes. I'm probably going to get stuck a few times have to buy a new tie rod end or something and take 8 hours.
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our video tutorial will help you to make it easier and faster. Good luck! Best regards, Autodoc.
No torque wrench?
+joe king Thank you for the feedback! This video is purely informative therefor we highly recommend to service the vehicle at a certified repair shop. Anyway, you are absolutely right about the use of torque wrench and other special tools. Best regards, Autodoc.
If you look at when he for example hit the hub out of the knuckle assembly, you can see he has already cut a groove in the bearing race. This is a vital part of the bearing replacement procedure as simply hitting the bearing race left on the hub is never going to work.
You forgot to put the race back on.
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
Gonna ne some break problems you forgot a to tight a nut on the caliber
You are absolutely right and some moments were missed but everything was checked and corrected behind the scenes.
Too bad you didn’t have a cv joint removel vid would been handy
Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including the one you mentioned. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
1. pressing in the new bearing was done with the old bearing, which is ok, but, the dolly on top of that was diameter of the inner race carrier, therefore the load on top of the new bearing is through the inner race, which loads up the balls transferring load to the tight outer race new bearing. No good.The dolly on top of the old race used should have been same OD or a fraction less as the ouert race & a bore much larger than inner race. This is a typical example of why new bearings growl right from the start or soon after.
Keep rattle guns away from bearing assemblies.
2. Agree torque wrench must be used on nut 150-190 Ft. Lbs
3. didnt clean out the circlip groove crap with air or cleaning fluid.
Iam up to LH bearing #4 on my 2016 hyundai i20. Fitted by dealer under warranty. as new lasted 15000k, 2nd no good from start, #3 RS at 23000k, #4 not in yet.
maybe not use screwdrivers on the seal youll dmamge the metal better off using a screw drill in in a lil and pull the seal out using the screw
So body in this comment section points out the problems: letting brake caliper hang by rubber hose, impact wrench to the axle nut.... This is not good mechanic behavior
brake caliper is hanging on a metal hook.
not a very good idea to re-use old split pins, cant understand for a few cents more he could have used new pins, otherwise good video.
Thank you for the feedback! in practice, new threaded connections should be used. Best Regards, Autodoc.
All your vids are ok to get the general way to do a repair. But in details many bad practices. Your vids are intended to novice home builders. So you should show the example of good and bad practices. For example: You don't use impact wrench sockets, never replace old pins with new ones, torque wrench, what is it ? These details sometimes proceed to accidents.....
Thank you for the feedback! The video is informative and shows only the general principles of the constitution and the operation of the car and it is in no way to be taken as a manual for repair and maintenance. Best Regards, Autodoc
Don' t agree with your answer, if you call this a tutorial, you have to be perfect on this points because some newbies will take you video as a reference. Just one question, are you car professionals or just handymen ?
And safety glasses while using a press or a hammer
Tried this on a Getz with 360,000+ km… can tell you now that it is no where near this easy… Absolute worst thing I have ever had to do on a car.
We are sure that your comment will be useful for many of our viewers.
Didn't have a new cotter pin??!!
Thank you for your feedback! You are right, we used to reuse the old cotter pin.
Best regards, Autodoc!
When I see airgun I say, " OMG where are those torque spec numbers?"
😁
11:36 Thats hawt.
BS. The inner race is very tight and is ALWAYS left HARD stuck on the hub. One needs a custom puller or to weld rods or localized heat.
Exactly!...but if you look closely, the inner race was already cut-out with a Dremel, wich is another way to loose it if you dont have the puller.
@@JorgeRamirez-ig6tv I did the same a couple of times, scoring with a thin cutting disk on an angle grinder. If I may make a suggestion though : doing this diy is so much cheaper than taking it to the dealer that one might as well do it RIGHT : buy a new hub, around $20-25 ( aftermarket ) and install the new bearing on it. Cool hub in the freezer and heat the bearing to around 100 Celsius. Easy peasy, quick, aggravation free and perfect. One could also make a custom puller ( I did..) but that's not a walk in the park and it's pricey - a decent piece of steel is more than $20 and then it's a couple of hours in front of the lathe and mill. Not worth the trouble. Something else I learned over the years, the HARD way, is to only install bearings from reputable manufacturers !!! Can't stress this enough. These are preloaded angular conatct bearings with special seals and any shortcut will bite hard - they won't last a year. Usually, they don't die from wear - they die from water seepage past bad seals. Seals may be marginal from the manufacturer or (!!!) may be invisibly damaged when the bearing is pressed into the wheel carrier with a "socket". Also, it is fundamental to scrupulously clean all surfaces the bearing butts against, driveshaft including or the rust will "give" slightly after a while and the bearing will be lose. Use a torque wrench and tighten them to around 250Nm. A normal ( 100Nm ) wrench with an extender will do as well. See formulas for the new torque when an extender is added on YT...
take the music off and talk