Even the clever trick showing howto clean softly a nozzle makes the day. And the comparison between both slicers and nozzles is definitely a must to see. Bravo !!
Just remember that the area of a nozzle is πr^2, so 0,2mm will give you 25% of the nozzle area compared to that of 0,4mm and thus about 4x the time. Good luck filling up the print volume with that ;)
This is the kind of nuts & bolts knowledge that's most helpful in 3D printing. Your channel and that of Nerys are among the most genuinely useful on UA-cam. The "bigger names" in 3D printing UA-camrs aren't actually all that informative.
why is the extrusion multiplier set to 0.9 in S3d? (@4:39) that's why it shows some very thin letters where the individual lines don't even touch... (and ofcourse they should..) on clearing the nozzle... doing a "cold pull" (@ 75C nozzle temperature) does exactly the same thing without the nozzle unscrewed... so for those folks that think they have a clogged nozzle, please try this trick first before ripping everything apart :-) if the fillament comes out similar to what you just saw in this video.. you're good, clip off the fillament right before the thicker bit (about 8 mm ) and feed it like it's a fresh line..
Sorry but I have to point out that is the "stock" settings, you actually printed a different dia in both slicers, not really a fair comparison. S3D was 0.48mm for 0.4 nozzle, whereas Cura was 0.4mm for 0.4 nozzle diameter & similarly S3D was 0.24mm for 0.2 nozzle, whereas Cura was at 0.2mm for 0.2 nozzle. Would have made a lot more sense to compare with same nozzle settings set manually in both slicers.
@@haves_ "this is more about the nozzle rather than the slicers". lol Dude, you obviously don't understand even the most basic concepts of 3d printing.
@@haves_ it doesn't surprise me that the irony of your statement is completely lost on you. A controlled comparison is exactly that. You control all variables except the one you are comparing. That includes controlling all of the slicer settings so that you are ONLY comparing the nozzle size...in this case, comparing the slicer settings for the same nozzle diameter. If one slicer is set to 0.4 extrusion width and the other is set to 0.45 then you are no longer just comparing output of each slicer with the same nozzle diameter. Give up son. Let the adults talk now. Stop making a fool of yourself.
@@2z52 It's called "flow rate". Basically each plastic has different hardness and the extruder gear emboss at different radius on filament. The procedure is to mark the starting point with pencil, extrude 100mm, mark again, get the filament out of bowden tube. Measure the distance between marks, if it is different to 100mm, compensate it with flow rate %.
I thought slicers adjust filament flow automatically. Adjusting the line thickness in the software will adjust the flow of the filament on the extruder. I would say adding a gear to the extruder to increase the steps it takes to do a full rotation would give better results. I will coin it flow resolution.
I'd love a cura profile for a 0.2 mm nozzle. I just swapped and printed a benchy boat. It looks more detailed, but a good profile for a starting point (with tips on what to look out for) would be greatly appreciated. I did lower the speed a bit and upped the temps a bit but that's all so far.
hey! I thought I was the only one doing that nozzle cleaning technique, amazing! (also, use a sponge as a filament filter, I haven't had a clog in 1 year, even with the .2 nozzle!!! did a cold pull after 8hs of printing and it was spotless
Thank you , being a noob...... got the printer, but haven't started yet still learning the basics...... I would never have known you can have oil on the filament.@@FilamentFriday
Nice timing with this video! I just bumped into this "detail problem" two days ago and suspected that I might need a smaller nozzle. Enter this video, you just confirmed my assumption! Thank you!
I’m always having problems with top layers in simplify 3D! They always look stringy and under-extruded. If I turn up the extrusion multiplier, my perimeters look bad and parts are oversized.
even on prusa i3 the samething to the nozzle of using a smaller hole ,, i was trying figer out why i had rough finsh in my prints and it turn out to be a point 0.6 was used .. ok looking at chuck's video and try out was demo and on my printer with a 0.4 i got same finsh ... i learn something i wanted to thank chuck for the tip
on Cura for the 0.2 settings...why is there an outer ring around the model?...is there a way to remove it?...it is really annoying to get that off my bed
When I tried to follow this 2018 video along, but with Cura 5.1. Not surprisingly, a few things changed in the interface; in 4 years of Cura Upgrades ... yipes. Changing the Nozzle to 0.2mm still seems a good thing, to approach 200 Micron line widths; so it would be great if you 'refreshed' this guide video. Did you do an update guide video one, that I haven't found ?? For example: Printer Machine settings no longer seems to have the Nozzle Size input box, shown in this Video. But does it need to be set somewhere else? So far, I just created a New Printer with 0.2mm in the name & ensured your new FFV5.1 Profiles showed up. I tried to follow the next steps, and right off the bat, the 'FINE' settings shown seem missing; because of the CURA development. Plus, there has also been lots of great improvements / tweaks to you Profiles since 2018. I really don't want to mess any of the advancements up; while trying to make necessary adjustment for the smaller 0.2mm Nozzle. Suggestions ??
Simplify 3D hasn't been updated since last year (2019), think they've given up developing it so it won't be able to keep up with newer slicers like Cura. Would not buy it today that's for sure.
I've watched so many videos and gone through so many profiles. Ender 3 v2 Pro and I can't get a stable print with 0.2mm nozzle to save my life. Now going back to 0.4mm gatta redo all my Cura settings back the old way. lol
I'm having trouble getting any filament to stick to the bed with a 0.2mm nozzle. It comes out but then curls around the nozzle. I've done the bed leveling with your program and it seems right. Do you have any suggestions on what to do to troubleshoot this problem?
I have a rubber block that is covering the bottom, and surrounding the nozzle. It makes it so it can print but can't get a grip on the nozzle with it surrounding it. Is it ok to remove this block? Don't see this "block" on any other videos.
How? The ender hot end has those two screws, so even without a nozzle, the heat block is rigidly attached to the heatsink and thus to the carriage. It’s not like an e3d v6 where you have to hold the heat block with an extra wrench or it’s gonna break the heater and thermistor wires.
Super interesting! I just got started with my own Ender 3 and there's a ton of advice out there where everyone seems to have their own ideas and no two answers are the same. It's great to get a simple visual comparison like this, easy to follow instructions and plain language. I'm going to grab myself a set of 0.2 nozzles and see what happens next!
🤯 has anyone with an IDEX used two different nozzles and dedicate the smaller nozzle to the outer detail and the larger prints supports and inner walls/infill?
Thanks. It's good to see confirmation about this. I will definitely get one because I need to print movie props for gifts and ornaments so bad and 0.4 screws all details up like grip textures and threading.
Although it won't give you quite the same results as actually using a smaller nozzle, in Simplify3D (at least; possibly other slicers but S3D is all I use) you can set your Extrusion Width to less than the nozzle size (just like you can also set it to larger than the nozzle size); if your printer settings (and hardware) are tuned/good enough your prints will be very close in detail/quality to the smaller nozzle. (Reducing print speed for these "fine detail" prints often helps as well.) For those that use a single printer for both large and small prints, rather than constantly changing the nozzle (which can also result in your z-offset changing enough to require you to re-tweak settings) you should give this a try first.
You can only go so small though as the E steps/mm limit how much the extruder can back off. And it still comes out 0.4 diameter no matter how much you lower it. Typically you want your extrusion width to be 1.2x your nozzle for good layer adhesion. I think that’s why the ring didn’t stick on the Cura coin as the layer width was 0.4.
@@FilamentFriday I'm not sure about 0.2mm line width, but on my Fabrikator Mini I print at 0.3 width with the stock 0.4 nozzle as my default setting - with great results (although that printer is down at the moment) - and even on my large RepRap style printer I routinely vary between 0.5 (or higher) width/0.3 height at the "large" end down to 0.3/0.16 with a 0.4mm nozzle, and although some filament materials simply won't print well at those "limits", with the proper adjustments to other print settings I get good prints at either extremes as well as in between. (And I've tried using smaller nozzles for fine detail work, but at 0.3 width at least I didn't see much if any benefit with the smaller nozzle except for slightly faster print speed)
The pronunciation you write behind your surname is wrong. It is a surname that originated from Belgium. The correct pronunciation is hell-uh-BUICK. In which the BUYCK part has the Dutch ‘UI’ sound in it. Similar to the OU in house, but then with UI.
I bought a multi-pack for my Tevo Tarantula Pro to use a .2 mm nozzle. I have success with using a .6 mm, but the smaller I was never able to extrude any filament out. It got up to temp and I primed the heck out of it, but I never was able to start a bead. I didn't notice any leaking filament after changing the nozzle. Any suggestions?
Could you explain your comment at 4:49 about Simplify 3D requiring single extrusion walls and fills at 30% to get a decent print out of S3D? Are you saying that's for any print or just using the smaller nozzle? Thx.
a number of years ago after I got my 3D printer I had somebody who wanted doll furniture and when I tried printing it with the .4 diameter nozzle I couldn't get the detail at scale. So being a machinist I took and duplicated a nozzle on my own with a .2 millimeter diameter very luckily I had a .008 diameter drill. Then I told the printer program the nozzle was .19. This allowed a little bit of overlap on the horizontal layers problem solved.
Hi, how is possible to infill the spaces inside the letters between the external layers of them? Is possible increase the flush of filament to solve that problem? Thank you
When your walls thickness falls between multiples of your extrusion width you can get gaps. Enabling Fill Gaps Between Walls setting should handle that in Cura.
Hi, sometimes I have the same problem of the empty N in the s3d 0,2 result. Does exist a setting to avoid that problem, and have an infill in the letters? I must reduce the thickness of the wall? Thank you 🙏🏼
So, does splitting the nozzle diameter in half in turn "double" the print time? I suppose it wouldn't matter if fine quality on detail was the desired goal. Thanks.!
cool video , why would the 3D soft designer , do they make different triangle ? I search about what is the best soft to use , I prefer to stick to one soft ever it for pro user , I kinda like fusion 360 or solidworks, need an advice please :)
It would be a good idea to mention that if your using anything other than a brass nozzle that you need to increase the temp to have it extrude correctly. for those that have hardened steel or regular steel nozzles.
Nozzle switch out update / problem. Excellent video, thank you, but I recently purchased the set of Amazon nozzles you mentioned, for my Ender 5, and discovered that they do not fully snug up to the heat block as I tighten. I tried re-inserting the original nozzle, and it snugs up tight. I compared the new & original nozzle; and noted that the new one has threads all the way to the top; while original one has a small gap without threads. I am assuming that it is fitting into the heat break, allowing for the snug fit. Should I look for alternative nozzles, or is it OK for the new nozzle to stick out, off the heatblock a bit?? Or, should I try to pull back the heatbreak to allow the new nozzle to seat. I did read a few Amazon Nozzle reviews which warned about new nozzle installations starting to 'leak' at that gap. I look forward to your comments. Did your 0.2mm & new 0.4mm nozzles fit the same as the original Creality ?
@@FilamentFriday Thank you for this encouragement, Chuck. It did seem to seat solidly; on the Break, but was not flush to the Block. I was worried because the seating seemed so much different from the STOCK nozzle removed. Therefore I sent out a 'life line' before using it too much. Thank you for responding. Maybe this is a worthy of note to others with BL Touch, when changing to new nozzles. It threw an unexpected the height curve at me, when I checked my 'Z' Offset setting, since the seating changed the height (protrusion) significantly. That process proved to be a 'relearning' opportunity for me, given the back & forth tweaking required to re-establish a new height.
I need to print some small text, and wanted to avoid a shift to Resin. I found this awesome video tonight, after trying your recent Cura update video. Does the new Cura 5.1 have any tricks to make 0.2mm nozzle text even better ??
Thank you Chuck. You are such an awesome resource. I have ordered a 0.2mm nozzle to try with the new Cura 5.1, next week. Do you have a "small Text Profile' to leverage Cura 5.1 ??? My Ender5 has been modified to have a direct filament drive mounted on top of the Hot End. I seem to remember the older Cura versions had a 'thin lines' tweak; which some folks found useful for fine detail. I am trying to print text with a line thickness in the 245Micron range; so I will be pushing even the 0.2mm nozzle. I really don't want to go to Resin 3D for my needs. 50 Microns would be over the top; given the mess your have to work with.
Chep, I have a CR 10 which is 12v and I want to chage PS to a 24v. My mother board will handle it and I would need to change the fans but will I need to change the nozzle heater? My bed is changed to 115ac and works fine with the SSR. Thank you
I just picked up my first printer (Ender 3) about a week ago. Been thinking about other paid slicers. - GREAT VIDEO! - What about CAD design software? What do you like to use? Maybe another video about that?
On fist nozzle removal i can see your PTFE tube is not flashing the nozzel. Pretty common issue on Ender-3 which i actually discovered again on my Ender-3. Bought 10 pieces of fittings pc-4 m10 and already used than. With time with retraction no matter what you do the fittings become lose. After assemble the PTFE and nozzel do a mark with a pen to see when it moves. Capricorn helps for 7 weeks but not much... Probably i will replace my hotend to a V6 from Trianglelab which I already have here. Hope it can solve the pressure on the end of the bowden tube and fitting
You never say if this is Simplify3d 4.0.1 or the new 4.1 so I'm assuming the former. Your extrusion multiplier needed some work (at 0.9 might have needed to be more like 0.95 etc) as you looked like you were under extruding with S3D. Try this test on different brands and even colours for a much more accurate result www.desiquintans.com/flowrate.
I tried 100% and the top layer was only slightly better. The 90% came from the imported cat file and produced very accurate results. It make 0.4 walls more accurate so that why I used it to get the best detail from S3D. It was 4.0 , 4.1 has been giving me issues so I went back to 4.0.
I would like to point out that a .2 mm may lead to clogging issues. Caused by dust and impurities in any filament. A cleaning sponge would help, but issues may still arise.
Is there a way to first set up a printer to have multiple extruders, all with different nozzle sizes? And then set up the software to optimise the print so that the printer will use whatever nozzle is best for whatever layer. So for instance, in the case of the coin, a 1mm nozzle could be used for the majority of the coin and then the 0.2mm nozzle could be used for the fine letter and edge detail. From what I've seen adding the mechanics is a piece of piss but its really the software that would be the issue. Am I right in saying that it would be the slicer software that would need to do the optimisation and tool selection? Is it the slicer software that selects the material on the prusa multi-material add-on? Can anyone recommend a good video or video series that goes into detail about coding the software behind these things; from an stl file (or whatever file type is most common; step, iges, etc) to the final code the printer uses to melt some plastic?
What you describe is similar to what the adaptive layers feature in Cura does but with one nozzle and it varies the layer height depending on the detail needed. E3D company has developed a nozzle changing printer so exactly what you describe is being developed for it.
I was always under the impression (from numerous how to videos) that removing the nozzle without holding the hotend in place with a spanner was a bad idea?
Great video. Subscribed to your channel. Love the scientific aproach in comparing things. Best channel so far for 3d printing. After watching your vids, i changed from slic3r to cura. Everythings feels much better now.
Even the clever trick showing howto clean softly a nozzle makes the day. And the comparison between both slicers and nozzles is definitely a must to see. Bravo !!
"Oh we're goona try it out, On today's Pilament Priday"
- Simplified 3D (0.4 nozzle)
Best Ender 3 Channel. I've just bought mine and i'll be getting info everyday on this channel
Just remember that the area of a nozzle is πr^2, so 0,2mm will give you 25% of the nozzle area compared to that of 0,4mm and thus about 4x the time. Good luck filling up the print volume with that ;)
I guess it also means possible 4x better details? ;p
So 0.1 should achieve the mythical 16 times the detail!! TODD HOWARD WAS RIGHT
@@Abedeuss I didn't say anything about quality ;)
That blue toolbox at 0:17, where can I find an stl for that?
Thingiverse, video is here. Link in description. ua-cam.com/video/dlToCTPqsfI/v-deo.html
This is the kind of nuts & bolts knowledge that's most helpful in 3D printing.
Your channel and that of Nerys are among the most genuinely useful on UA-cam.
The "bigger names" in 3D printing UA-camrs aren't actually all that informative.
Great tip on clearing the nozzle after removal.
rob b that’s cursed
why is the extrusion multiplier set to 0.9 in S3d? (@4:39) that's why it shows some very thin letters where the individual lines don't even touch... (and ofcourse they should..)
on clearing the nozzle... doing a "cold pull" (@ 75C nozzle temperature) does exactly the same thing without the nozzle unscrewed... so for those folks that think they have a clogged nozzle, please try this trick first before ripping everything apart :-) if the fillament comes out similar to what you just saw in this video.. you're good, clip off the fillament right before the thicker bit (about 8 mm ) and feed it like it's a fresh line..
Dude, your videos are so amazing! You are straight to the point, just what I need.
Keep up the great work!
Looks like a skewed test by having really bad settings on the 0.4 nozzle.....
Sorry but I have to point out that is the "stock" settings, you actually printed a different dia in both slicers, not really a fair comparison. S3D was 0.48mm for 0.4 nozzle, whereas Cura was 0.4mm for 0.4 nozzle diameter & similarly S3D was 0.24mm for 0.2 nozzle, whereas Cura was at 0.2mm for 0.2 nozzle.
Would have made a lot more sense to compare with same nozzle settings set manually in both slicers.
well that is why he said "stock" and also "i could obviously improve...", this is more about the nozzle rather than the slicers
@@haves_ "this is more about the nozzle rather than the slicers". lol Dude, you obviously don't understand even the most basic concepts of 3d printing.
@@samsteel4456 and you obviously dont understand the most basic concept of a controlled comparison LOL
@@haves_ it doesn't surprise me that the irony of your statement is completely lost on you. A controlled comparison is exactly that. You control all variables except the one you are comparing. That includes controlling all of the slicer settings so that you are ONLY comparing the nozzle size...in this case, comparing the slicer settings for the same nozzle diameter. If one slicer is set to 0.4 extrusion width and the other is set to 0.45 then you are no longer just comparing output of each slicer with the same nozzle diameter. Give up son. Let the adults talk now. Stop making a fool of yourself.
I always swapping nozzles. The little silicone sock is the hard part.
How about use larger nozzles to speed up prints that don't need details?
Yes is does speed up the process quite a bit
@@LTMoore-yy1lm I'm using a 0.8mm for a while and that's a real big upgrade to speedup!
Great video! Now I really need to test a 0.2nozzle too! I dont know why but I have never done that yet
Hi Chuck, if you do this again, can you next time mention how much printing time increased with the smaller nozzle? I'm very curious.
It's twice as long for a half size nozzle.
Great video as usual. Just today I switched to a .2 to do some fine text. I have that same variety pack and until today I never used the smaller ones.
Without proper "flow ratio" configuration, neither of the prints are accurate... Sorry, you are trying to compare two output which are both flawed
How do I get proper flow ratio
"proper" flow ration lol
@@2z52 It's called "flow rate". Basically each plastic has different hardness and the extruder gear emboss at different radius on filament. The procedure is to mark the starting point with pencil, extrude 100mm, mark again, get the filament out of bowden tube. Measure the distance between marks, if it is different to 100mm, compensate it with flow rate %.
I thought slicers adjust filament flow automatically. Adjusting the line thickness in the software will adjust the flow of the filament on the extruder. I would say adding a gear to the extruder to increase the steps it takes to do a full rotation would give better results. I will coin it flow resolution.
I'd love a cura profile for a 0.2 mm nozzle. I just swapped and printed a benchy boat. It looks more detailed, but a good profile for a starting point (with tips on what to look out for) would be greatly appreciated. I did lower the speed a bit and upped the temps a bit but that's all so far.
That is really helpful info, I am hooked to your Ender 3 videos. Awesome work
Thanks
hey! I thought I was the only one doing that nozzle cleaning technique, amazing! (also, use a sponge as a filament filter, I haven't had a clog in 1 year, even with the .2 nozzle!!! did a cold pull after 8hs of printing and it was spotless
Add a drop of olive oil to the sponge and it will help prevent PLA from sticking but sounds like you don’t need it.
Hi, tell us more about the sponge, where do you put it? thanks in advance
Here is an old video of mine that shows it. ua-cam.com/video/aNaSqDt23xs/v-deo.html
Thank you , being a noob...... got the printer, but haven't started yet still learning the basics...... I would never have known you can have oil on the filament.@@FilamentFriday
Nice timing with this video! I just bumped into this "detail problem" two days ago and suspected that I might need a smaller nozzle. Enter this video, you just confirmed my assumption! Thank you!
I’m always having problems with top layers in simplify 3D! They always look stringy and under-extruded. If I turn up the extrusion multiplier, my perimeters look bad and parts are oversized.
can you share the settings your using with the 0.2 nozle please
Hahaha i literally just bought the same nozzles you bought in this video and came here to see what you thought about nozzle size. Perfect!
even on prusa i3 the samething to the nozzle of using a smaller hole ,, i was trying figer out why i had rough finsh in my prints and it turn out to be a point 0.6 was used .. ok looking at chuck's video and try out was demo and on my printer with a 0.4 i got same finsh ... i learn something i wanted to thank chuck for the tip
on Cura for the 0.2 settings...why is there an outer ring around the model?...is there a way to remove it?...it is really annoying to get that off my bed
When I tried to follow this 2018 video along, but with Cura 5.1.
Not surprisingly, a few things changed in the interface; in 4 years of Cura Upgrades ... yipes.
Changing the Nozzle to 0.2mm still seems a good thing, to approach 200 Micron line widths; so it would be great if you 'refreshed' this guide video.
Did you do an update guide video one, that I haven't found ??
For example: Printer Machine settings no longer seems to have the Nozzle Size input box, shown in this Video.
But does it need to be set somewhere else?
So far, I just created a New Printer with 0.2mm in the name & ensured your new FFV5.1 Profiles showed up.
I tried to follow the next steps, and right off the bat, the 'FINE' settings shown seem missing; because of the CURA development.
Plus, there has also been lots of great improvements / tweaks to you Profiles since 2018.
I really don't want to mess any of the advancements up; while trying to make necessary adjustment for the smaller 0.2mm Nozzle.
Suggestions ??
Love these vids!!!! Just so happens I got a set of nozzles, now Im confident to change over and play around with the sizes, thanks CHEP!!!!
Lets see how the heaterblock handles a 1.0mm e3d uses a longer heater block to use larger nozzle sizes... Also the volcano has a 1.2mm nozzle also
Simplify 3D hasn't been updated since last year (2019), think they've given up developing it so it won't be able to keep up with newer slicers like Cura. Would not buy it today that's for sure.
I've watched so many videos and gone through so many profiles. Ender 3 v2 Pro and I can't get a stable print with 0.2mm nozzle to save my life. Now going back to 0.4mm gatta redo all my Cura settings back the old way. lol
I'm having trouble getting any filament to stick to the bed with a 0.2mm nozzle. It comes out but then curls around the nozzle. I've done the bed leveling with your program and it seems right. Do you have any suggestions on what to do to troubleshoot this problem?
With a .02 nozzle and copper filament I could make counterfeit pennies. I'll be rich!🤣😳
I have a rubber block that is covering the bottom, and surrounding the nozzle. It makes it so it can print but can't get a grip on the nozzle with it surrounding it. Is it ok to remove this block? Don't see this "block" on any other videos.
I wish there were more content on larger nozzles also. Thanks for the video!
Yes you can get very clean prints with . 6 especially if translucent or transparent because less diffusion
Yes. @chep, able to make a video on using a 0.8 or 1.0 nozzle and the settings you would use for that?
U didn’t open the cover there when u remove the nozzle that could break the extruder.
How? The ender hot end has those two screws, so even without a nozzle, the heat block is rigidly attached to the heatsink and thus to the carriage. It’s not like an e3d v6 where you have to hold the heat block with an extra wrench or it’s gonna break the heater and thermistor wires.
Man... The smaller diameter nozzle makes a huge difrence! Thanks for making these videos. Such an awesome resource
I would have thought that checking and adjusting esteps would be necessary.
Normally in all the other tutorials people remove the ender 3 fan case to swap the nozzles. Is it fine to just do it the way you did it?
You clearly don't mind being burnt. Molten plastic on fingers hurts
Really bro, a coin? Why didnt you pick a detailed print to test.
It was simple enough to get the point across and worked well.
Amazing video as usual CHEP! Quick question tho: do we have to recalculate flow, e-steps or anything after changing it?
You might have to adjust flow depending on results.
just to confirm, the only ting you changes was nozzle size, not layer height?
What about time in same layer heigjt but with different noozle diameter
Smaller nosels actually get bundled with the ender 3X.
So I had a question (new guy) I noticed that if I load up the .02 nozzle in the cura settings, I can not use the CHEP profiles. What am I missing?
"On this week's Pilament Priday"
Trying to print TPU with an Ender 3 Direct Drive. Is it possible to print with a 0.2 nozzle? Cura says it's not supported.
Never tried it.
Super interesting! I just got started with my own Ender 3 and there's a ton of advice out there where everyone seems to have their own ideas and no two answers are the same. It's great to get a simple visual comparison like this, easy to follow instructions and plain language. I'm going to grab myself a set of 0.2 nozzles and see what happens next!
🤯 has anyone with an IDEX used two different nozzles and dedicate the smaller nozzle to the outer detail and the larger prints supports and inner walls/infill?
How would you slice that?
Thanks. It's good to see confirmation about this. I will definitely get one because I need to print movie props for gifts and ornaments so bad and 0.4 screws all details up like grip textures and threading.
Although it won't give you quite the same results as actually using a smaller nozzle, in Simplify3D (at least; possibly other slicers but S3D is all I use) you can set your Extrusion Width to less than the nozzle size (just like you can also set it to larger than the nozzle size); if your printer settings (and hardware) are tuned/good enough your prints will be very close in detail/quality to the smaller nozzle. (Reducing print speed for these "fine detail" prints often helps as well.) For those that use a single printer for both large and small prints, rather than constantly changing the nozzle (which can also result in your z-offset changing enough to require you to re-tweak settings) you should give this a try first.
You can only go so small though as the E steps/mm limit how much the extruder can back off. And it still comes out 0.4 diameter no matter how much you lower it. Typically you want your extrusion width to be 1.2x your nozzle for good layer adhesion. I think that’s why the ring didn’t stick on the Cura coin as the layer width was 0.4.
@@FilamentFriday I'm not sure about 0.2mm line width, but on my Fabrikator Mini I print at 0.3 width with the stock 0.4 nozzle as my default setting - with great results (although that printer is down at the moment) - and even on my large RepRap style printer I routinely vary between 0.5 (or higher) width/0.3 height at the "large" end down to 0.3/0.16 with a 0.4mm nozzle, and although some filament materials simply won't print well at those "limits", with the proper adjustments to other print settings I get good prints at either extremes as well as in between. (And I've tried using smaller nozzles for fine detail work, but at 0.3 width at least I didn't see much if any benefit with the smaller nozzle except for slightly faster print speed)
I’ll try it.
It's so cheap to just buy the nozzles though. Just buy the .02s lol
The pronunciation you write behind your surname is wrong. It is a surname that originated from Belgium. The correct pronunciation is hell-uh-BUICK. In which the BUYCK part has the Dutch ‘UI’ sound in it. Similar to the OU in house, but then with UI.
Always the best tutorials. What would we do without you, Chuck ? Thanks so much for all the videos you do !
I bought a multi-pack for my Tevo Tarantula Pro to use a .2 mm nozzle. I have success with using a .6 mm, but the smaller I was never able to extrude any filament out. It got up to temp and I primed the heck out of it, but I never was able to start a bead. I didn't notice any leaking filament after changing the nozzle. Any suggestions?
Could you explain your comment at 4:49 about Simplify 3D requiring single extrusion walls and fills at 30% to get a decent print out of S3D? Are you saying that's for any print or just using the smaller nozzle? Thx.
a number of years ago after I got my 3D printer I had somebody who wanted doll furniture and when I tried printing it with the .4 diameter nozzle I couldn't get the detail at scale. So being a machinist I took and duplicated a nozzle on my own with a .2 millimeter diameter very luckily I had a .008 diameter drill. Then I told the printer program the nozzle was .19. This allowed a little bit of overlap on the horizontal layers problem solved.
Hi, how is possible to infill the spaces inside the letters between the external layers of them? Is possible increase the flush of filament to solve that problem? Thank you
When your walls thickness falls between multiples of your extrusion width you can get gaps. Enabling Fill Gaps Between Walls setting should handle that in Cura.
Hi, sometimes I have the same problem of the empty N in the s3d 0,2 result. Does exist a setting to avoid that problem, and have an infill in the letters? I must reduce the thickness of the wall? Thank you 🙏🏼
So, does splitting the nozzle diameter in half in turn "double" the print time? I suppose it wouldn't matter if fine quality on detail was the desired goal. Thanks.!
I can't install a Precision nozzle
Nice! I've learned a lot! Thanks!
Not directly by hand... 😁
cool video , why would the 3D soft designer , do they make different triangle ?
I search about what is the best soft to use , I prefer to stick to one soft ever it for pro user , I kinda like fusion 360 or solidworks, need an advice please :)
What was the difference in print time between the 0.2 and 0.4 nozzles?
When free cura actually does better than the £150 software!!! 😂
What PLA do you use?
I would like to have 0.05 or 0.1 nozzles! Are there any somewhere?
It would be a good idea to mention that if your using anything other than a brass nozzle that you need to increase the temp to have it extrude correctly. for those that have hardened steel or regular steel nozzles.
Nozzle switch out update / problem.
Excellent video, thank you, but I recently purchased the set of Amazon nozzles you mentioned, for my Ender 5, and discovered that they do not fully snug up to the heat block as I tighten. I tried re-inserting the original nozzle, and it snugs up tight. I compared the new & original nozzle; and noted that the new one has threads all the way to the top; while original one has a small gap without threads. I am assuming that it is fitting into the heat break, allowing for the snug fit.
Should I look for alternative nozzles, or is it OK for the new nozzle to stick out, off the heatblock a bit?? Or, should I try to pull back the heatbreak to allow the new nozzle to seat.
I did read a few Amazon Nozzle reviews which warned about new nozzle installations starting to 'leak' at that gap.
I look forward to your comments. Did your 0.2mm & new 0.4mm nozzles fit the same as the original Creality ?
The nozzle shouldn’t go all the way to the block anyway. It should butt up to the heat break. The heat break may need to be screwed in further.
@@FilamentFriday Thank you for this encouragement, Chuck. It did seem to seat solidly; on the Break, but was not flush to the Block. I was worried because the seating seemed so much different from the STOCK nozzle removed. Therefore I sent out a 'life line' before using it too much. Thank you for responding.
Maybe this is a worthy of note to others with BL Touch, when changing to new nozzles. It threw an unexpected the height curve at me, when I checked my 'Z' Offset setting, since the seating changed the height (protrusion) significantly. That process proved to be a 'relearning' opportunity for me, given the back & forth tweaking required to re-establish a new height.
grande CHEP!
Thanks
I need to print some small text, and wanted to avoid a shift to Resin. I found this awesome video tonight, after trying your recent Cura update video. Does the new Cura 5.1 have any tricks to make 0.2mm nozzle text even better ??
Cura 5.1 prints small detail better thank 4.x
Thank you Chuck. You are such an awesome resource.
I have ordered a 0.2mm nozzle to try with the new Cura 5.1, next week.
Do you have a "small Text Profile' to leverage Cura 5.1 ??? My Ender5 has been modified to have a direct filament drive mounted on top of the Hot End.
I seem to remember the older Cura versions had a 'thin lines' tweak; which some folks found useful for fine detail.
I am trying to print text with a line thickness in the 245Micron range; so I will be pushing even the 0.2mm nozzle.
I really don't want to go to Resin 3D for my needs. 50 Microns would be over the top; given the mess your have to work with.
Just stuck a 0.2 nozzle on my MK3 MMU2 for custom (multi-colour) plectrums.
I'm getting issues with it not sticking. Any ideas?
Use glue stick, level the bed, change filament, raise the bed temp.
It's Hell-eh-buy-k. Not -buck. Lol. Sorry.
Buyck = old spelling for 'Buik' = belly
Hellebelly. 😄
Which software you are using, Sir...?
Chep, I have a CR 10 which is 12v and I want to chage PS to a 24v. My mother board will handle it and I would need to change the fans but will I need to change the nozzle heater? My bed is changed to 115ac and works fine with the SSR. Thank you
Most likely yes, you will need a 24 volt element.
@@FilamentFriday thanks, I will locate one on Amazon. I have a Prusa i3 MK3S ordered.
What 3d cad software do you use the most for your designs?
My channel shows many many examples of me using Tinkercad. I also have some tips and tricks videos.
Fusion 360 is also great and free
I agree on that.....just bought the book by Lydia Sloan Cline called Fusion 360 for makers....about A$30 on Amazon. @@JMNTN
This is exactly what I see with Cura vs S3D for fine detail prints. I cannot get high quality prints for microscopy applications using S3D.
Sweet, can you go higher than .4?
Sure. That video is coming soon.
@@FilamentFriday it can be based on the time not the accuracy
That is one of the benefits of larger but there are others.
Will CR 10 nozzles fit an Ender 3 pro?
Yes.
I’ve seen a .1 mm nozzle
what if 0.05 mm
Thanks brother! Big help.
I just picked up my first printer (Ender 3) about a week ago. Been thinking about other paid slicers. - GREAT VIDEO! - What about CAD design software? What do you like to use? Maybe another video about that?
I’ve got a whole series of videos using Tinkercad. Check my channel videos.
Ive found my uses for each slicer... Hard to say I like one more than the other when I think they both need improvement
Thank you.
Have you seen a similar difference with complicated objects like figurines and gears?
Yes. On some prints depending on the detail.
On fist nozzle removal i can see your PTFE tube is not flashing the nozzel. Pretty common issue on Ender-3 which i actually discovered again on my Ender-3. Bought 10 pieces of fittings pc-4 m10 and already used than. With time with retraction no matter what you do the fittings become lose. After assemble the PTFE and nozzel do a mark with a pen to see when it moves. Capricorn helps for 7 weeks but not much... Probably i will replace my hotend to a V6 from Trianglelab which I already have here. Hope it can solve the pressure on the end of the bowden tube and fitting
The PTFE was pushed against the nozzle. I just didn’t highlight it. I covered all that in this video: ua-cam.com/video/x35aWmnZ_A0/v-deo.html
your Channel help me so mutch... thank you for your great tips
You never say if this is Simplify3d 4.0.1 or the new 4.1 so I'm assuming the former. Your extrusion multiplier needed some work (at 0.9 might have needed to be more like 0.95 etc) as you looked like you were under extruding with S3D. Try this test on different brands and even colours for a much more accurate result www.desiquintans.com/flowrate.
I tried 100% and the top layer was only slightly better. The 90% came from the imported cat file and produced very accurate results. It make 0.4 walls more accurate so that why I used it to get the best detail from S3D. It was 4.0 , 4.1 has been giving me issues so I went back to 4.0.
I would like to point out that a .2 mm may lead to clogging issues. Caused by dust and impurities in any filament. A cleaning sponge would help, but issues may still arise.
Anything can lead clogging if you don’t have the temperature and flowrate correct. Dust and impurities happen but tend to be very minor.
Hi! Great video! I was wondering, for printing TPU is better to use a 0.2 nozzle?
No, larger is better.
So what is your advise for beginners like me...move to 0.2mm nozzle?
No. Beginners stay with 0.4. Print lots of things. Learn your machine. Then know you can get better small detail with 0.2 when you are ready.
Eever experiment with larger nozzles 0.6, 0.8 and 1.0 yet?
Yes. I’ve had it on the channel before.
Really liked the box, and how to change the nozzle, thanx
Is there a way to first set up a printer to have multiple extruders, all with different nozzle sizes? And then set up the software to optimise the print so that the printer will use whatever nozzle is best for whatever layer.
So for instance, in the case of the coin, a 1mm nozzle could be used for the majority of the coin and then the 0.2mm nozzle could be used for the fine letter and edge detail.
From what I've seen adding the mechanics is a piece of piss but its really the software that would be the issue. Am I right in saying that it would be the slicer software that would need to do the optimisation and tool selection? Is it the slicer software that selects the material on the prusa multi-material add-on?
Can anyone recommend a good video or video series that goes into detail about coding the software behind these things; from an stl file (or whatever file type is most common; step, iges, etc) to the final code the printer uses to melt some plastic?
What you describe is similar to what the adaptive layers feature in Cura does but with one nozzle and it varies the layer height depending on the detail needed.
E3D company has developed a nozzle changing printer so exactly what you describe is being developed for it.
I was always under the impression (from numerous how to videos) that removing the nozzle without holding the hotend in place with a spanner was a bad idea?
Creality hotends have screws that hold the heat block in place.
Great video. Subscribed to your channel. Love the scientific aproach in comparing things. Best channel so far for 3d printing. After watching your vids, i changed from slic3r to cura. Everythings feels much better now.
Does it take longer to print with 0.2 mm nozzle? If so, how much longer?
Yes. Maybe 20% longer.
This helped me so much thank you