Common Sarking or High Performance Wall Systems by Proclima?
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- Foil sarking is a commonly used product for wrapping Australian homes, in this video we cover the reason why we wrapped homes. The reason why foil sarking (radiant barrier) became a common product used in Australian construction, and why we need to transition away from these products, and more to higher quality products that are based on sound building physics principles.
* Reducing moisture content in wall cavities,
* reducing air flow in wall systems, and increasing insulation performance,
* while providing a services cavity that assists services to be installed without effecting building performance.
This video covers all these important concepts, for better performing wall systems in Southern Australia and Northern Australia.
00:00 - Radiant Barrier Sarking Issues
11:34 - External wall vapour permeable wrap detail
18:52 - Internal wall builders wrap details
24:10 - High Humidity, NT and Northern Queensland, Wall system solutions are also featured.
#proclima #airtightness #sarking #buildingperformance
Thank you for all your great videos. I especially enjoy the upgrades to existing structures. Something I am introducing all my clients to.
The type of content you creat keeps my motivated to build better homes.
Hopefully all Australian homes will require a blower door test for final Occupation Certificate soon.
Thanks Benny! I’m glad all the effort we put into these productions, is making a difference. Thanks for following.
Your welcome. The efficiency door seals we bought from you are great as well !
Great information guys, very well explained.keep the videos coming
Australia needs a semipermeable wrap on the exterior framing, roxul mineral wool insulation in exterior wall applications, and a thick plastic impermeable wrap on the interior framing before plasterboard. That combination should resolve all of your issues, the greater issue is finding people of good workmanship
Hey thats my house in the thumbnail!
Joseph did the blower door test on our build, very professional and friendly.
We ended up with 1.1 ACH which I was very happy with given some of the tough window/frame/concrete interfaces we had to deal with.
Nice looking project that one!
A+ on wrap installation too.
Is that a Kinzel window? We're about to install 40 Kinzel windows into our house and are looking into Pro Clima too. Would love to know how it's gone, especially after the big rain of last year. Cheers - Dave
@@deldridg the windows are Dophner supplied by Laros. The proclima products have been great. No leaks or issues with the air tightness.
@@rowantruscott8331 Hi Rowan and thank you for your reply. Sounds like you've got what we're aiming for - primarily a healthy environment with the secondary climate benefits - humidity/temperature etc. Our windows are by Kinzel - UPVC from Austria, all tilt/turn plus some of their high performance "smart slide" range - very high quality rubber seals and very low U-factor. We are now researching wraps to make sure we're not negating the value of our windows/doors, so Pro Clima is one of the choices we are looking into. Lots to learn! Cheers and thank you - Dave
Or....you can have all the functionality of these thermoplasticelastomeretherester membranes, tapes, battens, batts and gawd knows what else in one simple durable breathable environmentally friendly, mould, fire and pest resistant monolithic mass called Hempcrete. Still, great show, your channel has introduced me to recent developments in building science and I thankyou for it.
On board with that here in Adelaide.
Best explanation I have seen and I have seen a few now. Was my feeling of how to get a tight house but couldn't see anyone use the same method with the wrapping on the inside.
The question do you need it on all of the internal walls?
Just external walls. There is usually a wrap on the ceiling that picks up the air barrier ontop of all the internal walls.
Well done and timely information for a my new build. Can you also cover solutions for traditional roof assemblies in Australia.
John Peters We have one planned. Straight after covid-19 stage 4 restrictions. 🤣
@@ecoevo Fantastic. Looking forward to it. I hope it covers solutions that includes BAL 12.5+ ember protection that works with drainage. Great if option of foil/glass fibre blanket with ventilation can be included and compared to VPM.
What is that gyprock product near the end where you have the pro clima adhero stuck to it? Would that make a good option for sheathing?
With these systems in place what sort of wall insulation products do you reccommend???
Great content! Two questions/comments:
(1) exterior insulation such as rock wool / foam / aerated concrete over WRB (AKA lstiburek perfect wall) to stop interior condensation forming yet allowing exterior water to freely drain. Seems to do away the need for internal membranes?
(2) WRB integrated sheathing like Huber zip sheathing and its vapour open competitor Georgia-Pacific forcefield. Both use butyl pressure sensitive tapes. Will we see these becoming available in Australia soon?
Great question, I’d
Iike to see that too. I have been searching for a similar product to zip in Australia
and can’t find it anywhere!
what about holes made by screws when installing battens?
Got me laughing at, "Throw it out the window", proceeds to literally throws it out a demo window
So to clarify you don’t recommend insulation inside the 90mm/140mm wall cavity when using the external and internal wall wraps and if you must insulate put it inside the 40mm services cavity on internal wall ? Is there a pricing schedule per sq metre for these products?? Thanks for your videos
insulation should be installed in the conventional stud wall cavity. You may install insulation in the 40mm services cavity, but we recommend not putting too much insulation in a thicker services cavity. It’s not a bullet proof idea to put insulation on the inside of the internal wrap air barrier. 👍🏻
Great video, all of this is fantastic for a new build. But what about renovating a typical brick veneer house where you can’t add the exterior wrap? I’m renovating a 60s brick veneer house in Sydney and want to get it as tight as possible. All existing gyprock is being removed. Would insulating the stud bays and using solitex with battens be the best solution?
ulli hentschel You may find this video exciting. Thanks for supporting the channel, feel free to share our content. ua-cam.com/video/DpjNLfBokro/v-deo.html
Hi, mineralwool/stonewool (rockwool is a well known brand) would be a good choice for insulation considering you dont have an external wrb.It's dearer than fibreglass but has higher r value is hydrophobic and vapour permeable and its r value wont diminish with the movement of moisture and air through it. It is also denser and will friction fit better than fibreglass(prevent batts from falling through studs and laying against back of bricks) and it has great acoustic properties and is often used in wall systems to beef up fire resistance level as it has a crazy high melting point. Also pests wont eat it and it wont harbour mould. All super important without an external water and wind tight layer as the r value of the fibreglass will diminish dramatically once it has the effect of wind washing and moisture . I believe wind washing can reduce the insulative value of fibreglass by as much as 40% Combined with internal air tightness vapour barrier to your walls and ceiling should give you a much improved home.(Ive been researching different types of insulation for my own passive build in the near future) Wood fibreboard insulation also has similar properties to rockwool and can come in batts but also as a rigid board which you could use on inside of wall
which could be used as an air barrier maybe instead of wrap but also this way you will create continuous insulation that would reduce thermall bridging through your studs. Internal vapour barrier may not be as important then as moisture could pass right through to outside of insulation to the brick cavity before it hits du point! Gutex is a german brand of WFB
Both these products are good choices environmentally and health wise in terms of air quality. Hope this is helpfull and keep up the good work Efficiency Matrix!!
Genevieve Thornton thanks so much.p for your comments. I have also been looking at the wood fibre board and it seems there a few companies now bringing them into Australia which is great! I’m looking at using this on our roof in particular.
We have covered 2 homes with Gutex here.
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Enjoy...
Thank you for your comments they are really appreciated. feel free to share our content on other social media platforms.
@@ullihentschel1207 Hi again, wondering who the companies bringing wood fibreboard into australia are
At 02:55 Jesse explains how adding fibrous insulation can lead to condensation/mould problems on the tinfoil sarking inside a stud wall. That makes me worried to add wall insulation in my typical 1990 brick veneer house (Melbourne climate zone). Should I be worried? Or given how leaky the sarking likely is, I should not be worried? Thanks.
Correct given how leaky the sarking is, and considering you have sarking, this will give you a gap, to ensure insulation doesn’t get in contact with your bricks.
Wondering how Intello system would be used in multi-story building or to create an unvented attic? How are the floor trusses handled? Wrapped on ceiling and floor?
Several options for floor trusses: foursevenfive.com/blog/how-to-keep-floor-beams-where-they-should-be-inside-the-airtight-layer/ but the 3rd option using a ledger board seems more elegant: blog.lamidesign.com/p/swedish-platform-framing-info.html
What about paint on the internal plaster board walls that can stop moisture movement through the wall internally ? .
I have an older 50s house and I want inject foam into the wall cavities.
That can be dangerous.
@@ecoevo yes that was an uninformed question, I'm now going to eventually remove the cladding add batts then vapour permeable membrane .
Apparently the foam in older homes can push the plaster board off the walls .
@@davidgreen424 try Envirowall instead.
Please comment on the perforated sarking. It’s ‘breathable ‘
Benny Boo But it’s not weather resistant. Water can pass straight through it, during construction.
@
That is true. But is this the type of wrap that the majority of builders are using?
Not normally.
I don’t get it won’t the moisture then get trapped on back on plasterboard
For which climate?
Ahaha you stabbed that sarking real good
Murdered.