I really appreciate you all putting these out. I'll start by saying that. Educationally they are good. The issue here on the 7/8" corrugated is what happens if the hail with said impact hits a fastener in the high rib? There you might have an issue. It could compress the fastener into the rib and open up a hole. Also, 26 ga. means you are appealing solely to residential customers.
William, I pinned your reply and I appreciate the issue that you have highlighted. We chose 26 GA simply because we wanted to show the worst case scenario instead of the heavier gauge. In hindsight, I would have shot this with both gauges.
Just came across this video. True, metal roofing can be rated Class 4 but, according to my insurance carrier, unless the fabricator has it UL tested, it will not accept it as a Class 4 rating. Even though the metal supplier can supply specifications. The UL test has to be preformed on a fabricated panel according to said Insurance carrier. Most smaller fabricators don't have a UL test preformed for reason of additional cost. Check with both steel roofing fabricator and your insurance carrier if UL is an issue. Words i wish i would have read before.
Yeah, me too. The scissor lift broke as we were shooting so we didn't get to do that. I think we will refilm this in the future and do the heavier gauges.
It's just functional damage? Would you be happy if the insurance told you the hail damage on your car was functional and they were not be paying out because you can still use your car! Why don't you drop the ball on a seam? That's probably a better test. I'm a huge fan of metal, I have it on most of my properties, and I appreciate all your videos, however, if you're going to also tout "functional and non-functional damage", you should also disclose that most Insurance Carriers today have metal exclusions that may prevent a claim on your roof being perfected because of Functional V Non-Functional damage. Terms made up by Engineers who are in bed with the Carriers.
![What's The Best Gauge Metal Roofing For A Residential Metal Roof? [29 Gauge Vs 26 Gauge Vs 24 Gauge]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KDnsi4_K1Jg/mqdefault.jpg)
![What's The Best Gauge Metal Roofing For A Residential Metal Roof? [29 Gauge Vs 26 Gauge Vs 24 Gauge]](/img/tr.png)
I really appreciate you all putting these out. I'll start by saying that. Educationally they are good. The issue here on the 7/8" corrugated is what happens if the hail with said impact hits a fastener in the high rib? There you might have an issue. It could compress the fastener into the rib and open up a hole. Also, 26 ga. means you are appealing solely to residential customers.
William, I pinned your reply and I appreciate the issue that you have highlighted. We chose 26 GA simply because we wanted to show the worst case scenario instead of the heavier gauge. In hindsight, I would have shot this with both gauges.
Just came across this video. True, metal roofing can be rated Class 4 but, according to my insurance carrier, unless the fabricator has it UL tested, it will not accept it as a Class 4 rating. Even though the metal supplier can supply specifications. The UL test has to be preformed on a fabricated panel according to said Insurance carrier.
Most smaller fabricators don't have a UL test preformed for reason of additional cost. Check with both steel roofing fabricator and your insurance carrier if UL is an issue. Words i wish i would have read before.
Just watched this twice back to back. Might go for a third…
Thank you lauren
Different result when fastened to a solid substrate? Note the flex of the panel upon impact.
What would a test using 24 gage metal. How would that come out in the way of denting, I know it wouldn’t puncture? Thanks.
Would like to see how 22 and 24 gauge stand up.
Yeah, me too. The scissor lift broke as we were shooting so we didn't get to do that. I think we will refilm this in the future and do the heavier gauges.
why is this youtube channel always a thirst trap?
Damn she fine
It's just functional damage? Would you be happy if the insurance told you the hail damage on your car was functional and they were not be paying out because you can still use your car!
Why don't you drop the ball on a seam? That's probably a better test. I'm a huge fan of metal, I have it on most of my properties, and I appreciate all your videos, however, if you're going to also tout "functional and non-functional damage", you should also disclose that most Insurance Carriers today have metal exclusions that may prevent a claim on your roof being perfected because of Functional V Non-Functional damage. Terms made up by Engineers who are in bed with the Carriers.