My brother in Christ! You may have saved my truck. It hasn’t ran or charged since I bought it and I’ve been so lost and then I find your channel and things start to make sense. You’re a Godsend.
Oh, I sure do appreciate all the information that you and I believe your uncle share on your channels about these Nissan pick ups I do have one that’s a 96 . I’m in the process of deleting the EGR however, this is a daily driver I drive it every day back-and-forth to work. I have taken off all those vacuum lines, the little canister, and the other sensors that are in the spot where your stereo fuse is on your finger wheel behind your battery. What do you do with all those plug-ins for the wiring hornist and what am I supposed to do about the computer for the motor recognizing that those sensors aren’t there I would eventually like to do the carburetor swap. And eventually do away with the ECM altogether. Any suggestions for sure would help since I took off all those canisters and sensors over there on the passenger side fender plugged off those vacuum lines. I have not taken off the EGR valve yet the truck is running OK it seems have more power. It does have a slight miss. Wish I did a tuneup Time in chains good to great little truck. I just want to run as best as it can. Thank you for your information. I know that’s a lot of questions to answer then I’m sorry about having to do all that at one time I work a whole lot so I don’t have much time to get on here if you would like to I would send you my phone number. If you would rather call and talk about it that would be great again I appreciate everything you do.
Does your electrical system always have a constant 12v system now, because I believe the alternator wire runs from the alternator to the fuse box inside? So would soldering all those fuse able links to the battery give the electronics inside the truck a constant 12v circuit?
Hey, I’m also looking to upgrade my alternator however all the ones that I find are very expensive. You just spoke about a capacitor would you mind let me know what that is and if it’s something I can get to put on my truck I do have an aftermarket stereo I had a small amp and I do plan on putting some LED lights, light bar those kind of things again your information is very helpful. I love all your videos and I believe it’s your uncle. It also has videos are enjoyed them all. Thank you very much.
Anytime you ask questions it's the owner of the Nissan your speaking to so don't worry bout getting cross answers I taught my nephew everything he knows but is a Mazda 3 owner only and although it's his channel etc it's really mine since I have the most tech vids on here he is just lazy on getting any new content on the Mazda on here but when it starts to break then it will have Mazda content lol.. the factory Nissan has a riddled assortment of positive terminal issues once it starts to corde and cause shorts for the charging system and power to the fuse box and to 5ge ECM, All I did was delete all that crap and crimp a big 0awg all copper lug to all those wire leads n attach it on the positive battery side and BAM!!! No fucking more issues!
As far as the alternator goes it's a crap shoot! Save money and get the Original OG Hitachi alternator that's made in Japan for Japanese vehicles I shit you not on this ! All these fancy looking alternators you see cheap and not are rebuilt even though they say all brand-new? The housing is all remanufactured or new that's just a mold or casing but it's the electrical guts that make an alternator true ! Rebuilt alternators all remanufactured have china rectifier /regulator board in the alternator meaning that unless you get a lifetime warranty you could get used to changing out alternators frequently! So I put my IG alternator back in and spits out 14.4 up to 14.8 depending on temperature that's perfectly fine and normal they are just stated as 12v automobile alternators FYI and yes I had a fancy nice new rebuilt alternator by TYC , worked badass but as soon as it got wet one time it crapped out in the electrical internal regulator board and does not let you know when it stops working! It will do 2 things it will stop charging or over charge n start melting some shit !!! The big 4 is the absolute solution for this cause Japanese alternators are designed to work off negative ground meaning it's very robust and can be submerged under water and still work! A better bigger power wire is great but bigger or simply more ground contact points are necessary why? Cause any and all over charging or volts are bled off into the grounding system like the engine block, the cab wall, the frame and the battery aswell ...
Oh gosh? Got them on eBay and kept searching until I found some or at least read the description of all contents of the battery terminal to make sure it came with the clear Plexi covers
Thanks for the information you give. I have a 1986 d21 4 cilinder. Looking for the link to buy the grounding bag you show, but do not see it. Can you please share it here? Thanks so much.
My brother in Christ! You may have saved my truck. It hasn’t ran or charged since I bought it and I’ve been so lost and then I find your channel and things start to make sense. You’re a Godsend.
Thanks man!!! Did a rebuild and forgot where all the grounds went haha this helped a lot
This video is everything I've been looking for
Glad you like it n glad it's helping you understand the method to all my MADNESS 😎🤘💪👍
Hello! Quick question, what did you do with your power steering pump?
Oh, I sure do appreciate all the information that you and I believe your uncle share on your channels about these Nissan pick ups I do have one that’s a 96 . I’m in the process of deleting the EGR however, this is a daily driver I drive it every day back-and-forth to work. I have taken off all those vacuum lines, the little canister, and the other sensors that are in the spot where your stereo fuse is on your finger wheel behind your battery. What do you do with all those plug-ins for the wiring hornist and what am I supposed to do about the computer for the motor recognizing that those sensors aren’t there I would eventually like to do the carburetor swap.
And eventually do away with the ECM altogether. Any suggestions for sure would help since I took off all those canisters and sensors over there on the passenger side fender plugged off those vacuum lines. I have not taken off the EGR valve yet the truck is running OK it seems have more power. It does have a slight miss. Wish I did a tuneup Time in chains good to great little truck. I just want to run as best as it can. Thank you for your information. I know that’s a lot of questions to answer then I’m sorry about having to do all that at one time I work a whole lot so I don’t have much time to get on here if you would like to I would send you my phone number. If you would rather call and talk about it that would be great again I appreciate everything you do.
Does your electrical system always have a constant 12v system now, because I believe the alternator wire runs from the alternator to the fuse box inside? So would soldering all those fuse able links to the battery give the electronics inside the truck a constant 12v circuit?
Whats the filter on the backside of your valve cover called and where you find it
Hey, I’m also looking to upgrade my alternator however all the ones that I find are very expensive. You just spoke about a capacitor would you mind let me know what that is and if it’s something I can get to put on my truck I do have an aftermarket stereo I had a small amp and I do plan on putting some LED lights, light bar those kind of things again your information is very helpful. I love all your videos and I believe it’s your uncle. It also has videos are enjoyed them all. Thank you very much.
Anytime you ask questions it's the owner of the Nissan your speaking to so don't worry bout getting cross answers I taught my nephew everything he knows but is a Mazda 3 owner only and although it's his channel etc it's really mine since I have the most tech vids on here he is just lazy on getting any new content on the Mazda on here but when it starts to break then it will have Mazda content lol.. the factory Nissan has a riddled assortment of positive terminal issues once it starts to corde and cause shorts for the charging system and power to the fuse box and to 5ge ECM, All I did was delete all that crap and crimp a big 0awg all copper lug to all those wire leads n attach it on the positive battery side and BAM!!! No fucking more issues!
As far as the alternator goes it's a crap shoot! Save money and get the Original OG Hitachi alternator that's made in Japan for Japanese vehicles I shit you not on this ! All these fancy looking alternators you see cheap and not are rebuilt even though they say all brand-new? The housing is all remanufactured or new that's just a mold or casing but it's the electrical guts that make an alternator true ! Rebuilt alternators all remanufactured have china rectifier /regulator board in the alternator meaning that unless you get a lifetime warranty you could get used to changing out alternators frequently! So I put my IG alternator back in and spits out 14.4 up to 14.8 depending on temperature that's perfectly fine and normal they are just stated as 12v automobile alternators FYI and yes I had a fancy nice new rebuilt alternator by TYC , worked badass but as soon as it got wet one time it crapped out in the electrical internal regulator board and does not let you know when it stops working! It will do 2 things it will stop charging or over charge n start melting some shit !!! The big 4 is the absolute solution for this cause Japanese alternators are designed to work off negative ground meaning it's very robust and can be submerged under water and still work! A better bigger power wire is great but bigger or simply more ground contact points are necessary why? Cause any and all over charging or volts are bled off into the grounding system like the engine block, the cab wall, the frame and the battery aswell ...
what battery terminals are those, I search and find similar but not with the plastic covers...
Oh gosh? Got them on eBay and kept searching until I found some or at least read the description of all contents of the battery terminal to make sure it came with the clear Plexi covers
Thanks for the information you give. I have a 1986 d21 4 cilinder. Looking for the link to buy the grounding bag you show, but do not see it. Can you please share it here? Thanks so much.