Hi thank you for being you, I wish all mechanics had your mindset and put the extra effort in. Keep up with the great work also you have helped me resolved me my issue.
I believe you may have just saved me… Have a Mk2 Focus with this same issue (boost not egr) - will work on it as you have on Sunday & revert. Great video 👍👍👍
Awesome detailed information! Refreshing and surprising. 🙂 I'll share my tip: Use silicone gasket to "glue" the EGR gasket to the surface of the valve. Makes assembly /disassemble a breeze the next time he EGR needs cleaning.;-) Tip 2: For the cost of that "EGR clamp", one can buy the appropriate pliers for the original clamp. A bit of search probably will find it cheaper. ;-)
I've been looking for a video like this and yours is the clearest one I've been able to find. I have a 2008 Citroen 1.6 HDi and the engine layout looks almost identical to yours. The depollution system has been a source of never ending grief for 10 years now. I had the EGR replaced two years ago and it cost $1200. That's about what the car is worth now. Your video has given me the confidence I need to tackle the EGR replacement. If I "F" it up, the car was on its last legs anyway.
Hi there, Sorry to hear about your troubles, That is a shocking cost to replace the EGR valve, i am assuming it was through a dealer. The owners clubs for these cars are generally quite good, ebay has plenty of lexia/diagbox dongles available from home diagnostics and they are generally quite easy to keep running DIY. Hope that you get it sorted soon and that it gives reliable service.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks. Yes, It has been an expensive car to maintain. I've always got it serviced through the dealer and it costs 2X-3X what my wife's mazda costs to service. I talked to the dealer yesterday and because he replaced the EGR valve recently he will do me a deal to clean it for only around $300. I have made an appointment to take it in tomorrow. I thought about doing it myself but if I can get it done for 300 I'll save myself the trouble. The car only needs to last util February as we have just ordered a new Mitsubishi Triton and I will ditch the Citroen then. I notice the Triton has its EGR valve on top of the engine so If it ever blocks I can easily service it myself. Cheers, Gary
@@garysheppard4028 Im guessing from the fact you mention mitsubishi triton and mention dollars you are in either australia or new zealand? The PSA dealers over there would probably be expensive, is it fair to say support would not be the best over there? Generally as far as diesels go PSA are one of the better companies still making them, its a close call between them and VW. I have persoanlly always had PSA cars and with this channel will naturally levitate towards them. There is a good enough level of knowledge out there when it comes to DIY repairs, the engines can clock up big mileages, have a look on copart some of the berlingo 1.6 HDi's over 500k miles just through regular servicing.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Correct. I am in Australia. I have to say that the Citroen dealer I go to here is extremely good. No problems there at all. Always super helpful and knowledgeable. But owning a car that is out of the "mainstream" means that economies of scale don't apply and service and parts are consequently expensive. I agree with you that Citroens can be reliable cars. But when things go wrong - like with the continual depollution faults with my vehicle- when you are outside of their home territories they can be a bit of a nightmare. Having said that, some of the loaner cars that the dealer gives me when mine is in for repairs have 300,000+ K's on them and they run beautifully. But belonging to a repair shop helps there. I love my Citroen when it's running properly. Smooth, adequate power, comfortable, well appointed interior. It makes my wife's Mazda 2 feel like a little tin box. But it makes financial sense to ditch the Citroen and keep the Mazda. Just from a maintenance point of view. It seems to be a much simpler car to maintain, annual services cost around 1/3 of the Citroen and the engine design is easier to work on. Same with the Triton. More accessible and cheaper to maintain. Fords, Toyotas, Mazdas, Hyundais, Kias etc. They are the common cars here. Citroens, Peugeots and other similar European brands just haven't got to "critical mass" and remain vey niche. Merc, VW and BMW are fairly common but Merc & VW have the customer support from hell and BMW is nightmarishly expensive when it goes wrong. Different strokes for different folks :-)
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi, is it possible to blank off the EGR valve, as I have done very successfully with my 2.0L PSA diesel powered ford. No more problems after doing that.
Excellent video, thank you very much! Changed my EGR valve last night without problems. It was very nice to know in advance what needs to be disassembled and where all the bolts are, before going out to the cold to actually do it all.
I can suggest something. If your line is not the issue, you can check your electrovanne or the final boss, the variable geometry of the turbo (my case). it can be glaude with time and exhaust gas. you have to disassemble the turbo, clean the exhaust side (all the palm and mechanism) then reassemble in order. Tricky job but enjoyable.
Very true, the variable vanes of some of the turbos think its the 110bhp version, as the lower powered engines use a simpler turbo. The vanes are prone to sticking due to carbon buildup. Thanks for the suggestion.
Excellent video ! You've taken quite some time in editing it and making it clear for us. Thank you ! Which diagnostic tool have you used (and is able to make the EGR adaptation)? Could you also recommend some less expensive diag tools for Peugeot, able to correctly read DTCs (including airbags, ABS etc) and test/adapt EGR etc.?
keep up the good work with easy understanding video with explanations why and how. many questeeons while doing this job are explained . very nice. i shall change mine. i dont bother with cleaning it this time. its not that much money involved. thanks again //M
THANK YOU FOR YOUR COMMENT The vacuum line hopefully its clear enough in this video, access in there for getting a clear view on camera is limited but the solenoid is around the back of the engine the pipe is connected there and runs to the turbo, avoid any hot surfaces or moving items such as drive belts or driveshafts.
By the way, I have a question about a 2007 Citroen C4 1.6 HDI 109 Hp i am about to buy; it has 197.000 km on the counter, but has been serviced well, but the seller (who is a police man and an honest guy) told me that the tip of the oil dip stick recently broke off and is now swimming around in the internals of the motor. Can this piece lead to any potentially serious problems..?
Hi there, 197,000 km is 122,000 miles. My own C4 is currently on 138,000 miles and runs fine. Servicing is key, if serviced there is no reason why they cant do over 200,000 miles or more. The dipstick breaking is quite common, i think they can run ok with it at the bottom of the sump but i personally would be removing the sump to extract the bits. Not a massive job, drain the oil, remove a handful of bolts around the sump, remove the sump, extract the dipstick. Clean all up and install a new seal or gasket.
What's the OE part number for the vacuum hose? Is it easy to run it through to the back of the engine? Many parts to disassemble in order to properly install the vacuum hose? Why is the wastegate open at idle?
Hi I do not know the OE number for the vacuum hose, i bought some replacement vacuum hose from the motor factors and cut it to length. The video here hopefully shows what was disassembled to replace the hose, the odd part where getting a camera in was a tad difficult but its reasonably easy to reach. The waste-gate is open at idle as the turbo does not need to produce boost under that particular time.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi. Do you remember the total length of the vacuum hose and inner and outer diameters? Roughly? Less than 3 m, 4 mm and 9 mm, respectively?Turbo pressure and air flow measured values are less than reference values. Will the vacuum hose replacement f ix this issue? It seems that the original vacuum hose is made of hard black plastic with a gray thermal sleeve I guess and only the last elbow that connects to the turbo actuator is silicone. Will a silicone hose replace the original hose?
@@csraln6748 Hi there Unfortunately if I haven't quoted diameters or lengths in the video itself that is the only place the information will be. Unfortunately i do not remember what they are.
Hi have had the same issue so yesterday i replaced the egr and now i am getting boost . What ive noticed is under accelerqtion is ill get sudden drop of power and then it will build again straight away .. I have read that it could be caused by a dodgy vac line ?? . Only other thing ive noticed is when i start car actuator dosent snap shut it creeps ? . Do u think my problem coukd be a sosgy vac line . Thanks
Hi there, part of the problem on this car was the vacuum line. Especially with the age of these cars now it is not implausible that the odd vacuum line may be slightly perished. A fairly cheap fix to get a length of vacuum line and plumb it from the actuator to the turbo
Im not entirely sure, the missing EGR gasket was a further indication that the car was not running with its original EGR valve, and it did leave a fair bit of a mess around the area.
Thnx for the video I have the same car but can you share the diagram on how to run connect atm.out.vac? Ok atm is clear,out you would run it to Westgate,im only struggling to find a vac connection from vac inlet to where?please assist same car same engene.thnx in advance
Hi there, unfortunately i do not have one of these engines out to create a video of what you need. Best thing to do would be to look up HDi & TDCi Tuning - Owners and Fans Group on facebook and ask on there. A very useful place to ask all questions related to these engines, plenty of members tuning them and doing work on them. Someone should have one out and be able to assist further.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Ok thanks, I have a Citroen berlingo and found my pipe was off at the actuator, Think it’s knackered anyway, Any idea the dimensions of the pipe I’ll need to get some!
@@khorvath74 I am not sure, best to have the faults read by a proper diagnostic machine first. Anti skid is related to the ABS/Traction Control system although something EGR related could trigger the message on the dash, best to have the faults read and then work from there othewise it is a guessing game.
hey dude i would just like to ask i have a peagot 308 sw 1.6 hdi when the car is cold the car has its normal power but when its hot and i go to 3rd gear and go above 3000 rpm for some reason it goes into limp mode and has 0 boost then and it feels very slugish would you know what the issue could be
Hi there, not sure. Possibly have the fault codes read first see if anything comes up. Could be the vacuum pipes to the turbo or the EGR but a fault code reader will be the first place to start.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV ive got one of them and all that it gives me is saying under boost condition :) thanks tho for helping one thing thats worrying me is that there was alot of oil in the turbo which makes me think the turbo went but i dont want to believe it also i got a boost guage to see how much boost it makes now for the car it should make 14 psi the car sometimes do that but when its hot its about 10 psi or 12 if im lucky 14 but ye
@@RN_SX Hi, i would hit the owners clubs/forums with what info you have and ask questions there. I generally do that if i have this sort of issue, by the time i make a video its after a fair bit of questions and Googling. There will be oil that drips out when you remove the turbo inlet pipe, thats completley normal on most diesels, Crankcase vapours are contributing to this. Excess blue smoke would be caused if your turbo was on the way out. I dont know what the boost pressure should be for your specific turbo, thats very much a question for the owners clubs. A more general thing i would say to check is the play in the turbo shaft when the engine is off. Feel it with a finger it should be fairly tight, with minimal movement off its central axis. Any excess movement would indicate the bearings that support the shaft are worn which would be cause for a new turbo. Another thing to check is that the wastegate or variable vane actuator operates. A vacuum pump can be used to actuate it without the cars controls, check to see if its moving smoothly again with the car off. If there are any areas in its travel where it binds or gets stiff then that might be something to investigate.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV ok bro thanks so much for the i have checked the turbo and there is like play for sure ive checked it a while ago i cant remember if it was really lose or not but ye ill for sure check the wastegate and all that :D Thanks again
@@peugeotCitroen2CV ok thanks , I getting a low boost code only every few month ,and changes n45 map maf and van has no acceleration but flys after 3k, Reason I think it’s a problem is I had a 1.6hdi berlingo and it was rapid off the mark , so bought a ford transit courier 16tdci which is same engine and it’s flat as a fart , got it remapped it’s a little better but still slow , wondering if this is slow because of turbo or if it’s the fly by wire throttle making it shit on acceleration??
@@peugeotCitroen2CV hi yer it goes great with maf disconnect which made me think it was faulty but Iv tried 3 different maf sensor and it never runs as good as it unplugged but it has no dtc either ?
@@richardmathers7238 HDI & TDCI Tuning - Owners and fans group. On Facebook is a good place to head to for knowledge on these engines. The wiring to the maf sensor may have issues, and with a remap it may need a specific map sensor. I think there also may have been certain remaps that do not need the maf sensor. Worth asking on there, as i would be reaching the limits of my knowledge on this subject.
Sprayed all down with traffic film remover and let it sit for about 10 minutes, reapplied then sprayed the bay with snow foam and pressure washed the whole area. Just cover over the ECU area with a plastic bag to prevent it from getting wet.
Adding to what was already said. It's worth checking under the car. Between a leaking EGR and a leaking PCV (on the top of the head). Usually creates a major mess all over the engine, all the way to the bottom part. On my latest project that's precisely what happened. Previous owner didn't address the issue on time, so the entire engine was covered in black soot. The sump can be scraped with a putty knife! That gives a pretty good image of how bad it can turn if left unattended! On metal parts "white spirit" can be used, BUT do not let it touch any plastic or rubber components. It's an extremely efficient solvent, but it will destroy all rubber components with the same efficiency. So do not use it on those parts. Cheers
@@crpth1 The PCV is that the intake pipe that clips onto the side of the rocker cover, a lot of them seem to leak around there. Seen quite a few also with a lot of soot around the injectors its worth checking the tightness of the clamp bolts that hold down the injector as the carbon that blows past a loose injector is a real nuisance to deal with.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV - Absolutely. Usually the PCV leak is easily corrected with a new (and very cheap) O-ring. The rocker cover leakage with a new rubber gasket. On my latest project a new gasket set me back about 16€! Surely not the end of the world even for a cheapskate like me. LOL 😂 About the injector clamps I believe it's worth a word of caution! I've seen this to many times. People go ape with it and thigh does bolts like there's no tomorrow... Than, really bad things happen! Anyone reading this. PLEASE make use of your best torque wrench and go "by the book". Remember no gasket, in this world, will work better when overtightened. In fact it will be destroyed! It's that simple. ;-) With this said, in an outstanding large number of cases, the soot around the injectors come from the PCV and the rocker cover leakage!! Nothing to do with the injectors seal/clamps! This will take many by surprise! Do to how simple (and cheap) it is to fix. Too many are paying for new injector seals work, when the "culprit" is just right beside, hiding in plain sight! Cheers
@@crpth1 The leaky injectors usually produce a much thicker almost fluffy looking mess, accompanied by a distinctive noise caused by the blow by. The oil leaks are generally the more common issue on these engines. I think its how the cars resist rust so well haha.
My local motor factors keep it in rolls, i got a few lenghts of different diameters just to have. Most independant motor factors will stock it. Although i have bought the stuff from ebay in the past also.
I done my egr and ever since it’s sucking in air and dumping it like crazy! Car keeps holding back nearly stooling no engine management light just a code saying to much air! Sounds like I’ve fitted a dump valve 😂
Im not sure. Typing P1461 into google seems to ellude to EGR issues www.peugeotforums.com/threads/depollution-fault-fixed.339742/ However without having a more defined fault code or more details on the live view paramaters of the car when it is running it is hard to say with 100% confidence that the EGR should be removed. It does no harm to remove it and check its condition.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I have changed egr valve and still the same, no over 3k rpm. I have checked the turbo actuator and it's moving when finger is holding vacuum inlet. No fault codes. Turbo actuator needs replace or turbo? I found some screw in the turbo when disconnected the black pipe.
@@bartbartosz6448 It should not move when you hold your finger over the inlet, if it moves then the diaphragm inside is faulty. You would need to try another actuator. Unfortunately no i have no movie on how to do it, i have not done that job before. I would recommend the owners clubs/forums for some form of guide.
Since Brexit and new Custims and excise charges, buying parts from Ebay to be shipped to Ireland has got a whole lot more expensive. I will be honest, I find it depressing to say the least. It is like 21%vat added.
Even over here to northern Ireland its a whole load of extra hassle, getting cars across costs much more, companies dont want to ship anymore. Hassle, not sure they could reach some sort of agreement as the two countries are right beside each-other and one of few EU countries that have right hand drive cars. How is it for you in the south buying parts from the EU i don't think thats changed?
bwhahaha in uk when you want to open the engine door you have to ask the passenger to do it or go down and go passenger side and open it .... hilarious :DDDDDDDDD
It is true in some cars the engine bay is a bit more conventional such as on the C5 and 407 which makes this job considerably larger. You cant even say the added hassle is worth it for the svelte looks of the 307 haha but that cab forward design is what they went for and the scuttle panel ends up covering the back of the engine.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV hi, wonder if you can help me with an issue with mine, I've cleaned the egr valve and all was fine for a few days then symptoms came back, car will often hesitate a little until I put foot down a little more then all ok again. Also I keep getting soot around the turbo area now and then, any ideas what could be causing this?
@@FatherJack-b1u ? It may have sooted up again, what condition was the pipe that leads to the EGR valve in? Soot around the turbo, was it ever replaced or is there a gasket on its way out?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV my knowledge is limited, just a DIY mechanic, gonna check everything over when we get some dry weather, only owned the car 3 month. I did notice once when I disconnected the electrical connector to egr for a couple of days I didn't notice build up of soot from turbo, coincidence? 🤔
When sitting down to design the car the ease of removing an EGR valve 10 years after it has been produced does not sit at the top of their priorities. Its not even the worst to get at compared to some other manufacturers. Its not really that difficult either, i was there i even recorded a video of it.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV he should be happy i have seen alot worse and u even have to change the EGR cooler aswell and move the particle filter to reach all bolts. this is nothing . and so many complain about french cars ar e bad etc, but i should say german cars are much worse. i have had a few citroens and peugots and i have done less work on them than friends volvo ww audi bmw cars. IF i buy a new car it wiyll be a new citroen . o have an 2012 C5 now . and done all service and the few repairs on it my own and saved alot. for example changeing cam axle belt or what its call at a company should cos me around 900 euro i made the job myself in less than 2 hour for 120 euro . so reading up guides like this and do the work urself saves alot of money . and french cars are not that bad to work with
@@mathiasternstrom4173 I think the 1.6 tdi golf requires the subframe and turbo to come out to get to the egr. So yep these hdi engines are not too bad to work on.
Hi thank you for being you, I wish all mechanics had your mindset and put the extra effort in. Keep up with the great work also you have helped me resolved me my issue.
Thanks for posting this, it helped diagnose a no boost issue with my 2007 Mini. It ended up being the capillary pipe from the vac valve.
Your videos are excellent. Your written comments are very informative also.
I like and subscribe.
Keep up the good work! 😊
Thank you!! Very helpful! There were no signs of faults with my car but no boost and it was almost unable to climb a hill road. Thanks again!
I believe you may have just saved me… Have a Mk2 Focus with this same issue (boost not egr) - will work on it as you have on Sunday & revert. Great video 👍👍👍
Awesome detailed information! Refreshing and surprising. 🙂
I'll share my tip: Use silicone gasket to "glue" the EGR gasket to the surface of the valve. Makes assembly /disassemble a breeze the next time he EGR needs cleaning.;-)
Tip 2: For the cost of that "EGR clamp", one can buy the appropriate pliers for the original clamp. A bit of search probably will find it cheaper. ;-)
I've been looking for a video like this and yours is the clearest one I've been able to find.
I have a 2008 Citroen 1.6 HDi and the engine layout looks almost identical to yours.
The depollution system has been a source of never ending grief for 10 years now.
I had the EGR replaced two years ago and it cost $1200.
That's about what the car is worth now.
Your video has given me the confidence I need to tackle the EGR replacement.
If I "F" it up, the car was on its last legs anyway.
Hi there,
Sorry to hear about your troubles,
That is a shocking cost to replace the EGR valve, i am assuming it was through a dealer.
The owners clubs for these cars are generally quite good, ebay has plenty of lexia/diagbox dongles available from home diagnostics and they are generally quite easy to keep running DIY. Hope that you get it sorted soon and that it gives reliable service.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Thanks.
Yes, It has been an expensive car to maintain.
I've always got it serviced through the dealer and it costs 2X-3X what my wife's mazda costs to service.
I talked to the dealer yesterday and because he replaced the EGR valve recently he will do me a deal to clean it for only around $300.
I have made an appointment to take it in tomorrow.
I thought about doing it myself but if I can get it done for 300 I'll save myself the trouble.
The car only needs to last util February as we have just ordered a new Mitsubishi Triton and I will ditch the Citroen then.
I notice the Triton has its EGR valve on top of the engine so If it ever blocks I can easily service it myself.
Cheers, Gary
@@garysheppard4028
Im guessing from the fact you mention mitsubishi triton and mention dollars you are in either australia or new zealand?
The PSA dealers over there would probably be expensive, is it fair to say support would not be the best over there?
Generally as far as diesels go PSA are one of the better companies still making them, its a close call between them and VW. I have persoanlly always had PSA cars and with this channel will naturally levitate towards them. There is a good enough level of knowledge out there when it comes to DIY repairs, the engines can clock up big mileages, have a look on copart some of the berlingo 1.6 HDi's over 500k miles just through regular servicing.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Correct. I am in Australia.
I have to say that the Citroen dealer I go to here is extremely good.
No problems there at all. Always super helpful and knowledgeable.
But owning a car that is out of the "mainstream" means that economies of scale don't apply and service and parts are consequently expensive.
I agree with you that Citroens can be reliable cars. But when things go wrong - like with the continual depollution faults with my vehicle- when you are outside of their home territories they can be a bit of a nightmare.
Having said that, some of the loaner cars that the dealer gives me when mine is in for repairs have 300,000+ K's on them and they run beautifully.
But belonging to a repair shop helps there.
I love my Citroen when it's running properly. Smooth, adequate power, comfortable, well appointed interior.
It makes my wife's Mazda 2 feel like a little tin box.
But it makes financial sense to ditch the Citroen and keep the Mazda.
Just from a maintenance point of view. It seems to be a much simpler car to maintain, annual services cost around 1/3 of the Citroen and the engine design is easier to work on.
Same with the Triton. More accessible and cheaper to maintain.
Fords, Toyotas, Mazdas, Hyundais, Kias etc. They are the common cars here.
Citroens, Peugeots and other similar European brands just haven't got to "critical mass" and remain vey niche.
Merc, VW and BMW are fairly common but Merc & VW have the customer support from hell and BMW is nightmarishly expensive when it goes wrong.
Different strokes for different folks :-)
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi, is it possible to blank off the EGR valve, as I have done very successfully with my 2.0L PSA diesel powered ford. No more problems after doing that.
wow, it's very good work.
It is so simple and comprehensible.
Thank you!
Excellent video, thank you very much! Changed my EGR valve last night without problems. It was very nice to know in advance what needs to be disassembled and where all the bolts are, before going out to the cold to actually do it all.
Thanks for the comment, great to read that the video has helped. Happy motoring and happy new year.
Can I ask if you adapted the new egr valve and if so how? Thanks
That’s a proper helpful video thanks very much.. I think I can definitely do this on mine all thanks to your video.. 👍
I can suggest something. If your line is not the issue, you can check your electrovanne or the final boss, the variable geometry of the turbo (my case). it can be glaude with time and exhaust gas. you have to disassemble the turbo, clean the exhaust side (all the palm and mechanism) then reassemble in order. Tricky job but enjoyable.
Very true, the variable vanes of some of the turbos think its the 110bhp version, as the lower powered engines use a simpler turbo. The vanes are prone to sticking due to carbon buildup. Thanks for the suggestion.
Just one thing, You do not have to mark wiper arms or blade positions as there are marks built into the windscreen to help realign them.
It's very relaxing to watch how you work on those pugs :)
Wow, thank you for doing this video you worked hard! This video will help out a lot of people
Thanks for the comment, it seems to be a common enough problem so hope it helps people out.
I just fitted one of those egr valves from D2P. Works perfectly.
Excellent video ! You've taken quite some time in editing it and making it clear for us. Thank you ! Which diagnostic tool have you used (and is able to make the EGR adaptation)? Could you also recommend some less expensive diag tools for Peugeot, able to correctly read DTCs (including airbags, ABS etc) and test/adapt EGR etc.?
Very detailed explanations, etc. Well done. ;-)
Cheers
Thankyou for sharing the video. It helped me out .
keep up the good work with easy understanding video with explanations why and how. many questeeons while doing this job are explained . very nice. i shall change mine. i dont bother with cleaning it this time. its not that much money involved. thanks again //M
Man! Thanks for the video.
Greetings from Denmark.
Cheers!
Thanks for the comment, happy to hear you found the video useful.
Greetings from ireland
Thanks for sharing beautifully explains in detail.
Thanks for the comment!
WELLDONE...VERY HELPFUL...THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO...MAKING A VIDEO ABOUT REPLACING THE VACCUM LINE , WILL BE HELPFUL TOO..
THANK YOU FOR YOUR COMMENT
The vacuum line hopefully its clear enough in this video, access in there for getting a clear view on camera is limited but the solenoid is around the back of the engine the pipe is connected there and runs to the turbo, avoid any hot surfaces or moving items such as drive belts or driveshafts.
Very instructive video, do you suggest to delete the egr valve on this engine if possible ?
You have the tightening torque value of the two EGR valve bolts.
Great vid mate.. really helpful
Thanks for the comment
By the way, I have a question about a 2007 Citroen C4 1.6 HDI 109 Hp i am about to buy; it has 197.000 km on the counter, but has been serviced well, but the seller (who is a police man and an honest guy) told me that the tip of the oil dip stick recently broke off and is now swimming around in the internals of the motor.
Can this piece lead to any potentially serious problems..?
Hi there,
197,000 km is 122,000 miles. My own C4 is currently on 138,000 miles and runs fine.
Servicing is key, if serviced there is no reason why they cant do over 200,000 miles or more.
The dipstick breaking is quite common, i think they can run ok with it at the bottom of the sump but i personally would be removing the sump to extract the bits. Not a massive job, drain the oil, remove a handful of bolts around the sump, remove the sump, extract the dipstick. Clean all up and install a new seal or gasket.
Very well explained thank you God Bless
Do you think either of these problems would cause hesitation on light acceleration when the engine is warmed up?
They are always worth checking out to see.
Any idea if the low boost would have lead to dpf blockage, also would it have preserved the Turbo/engine or detereated it quicker please?
Hi, well done for your excellent videos.
Just one question. Can you still drive the car if you don't program the new EGR with PP or diagnosis?
Yes you can drive the car without doing it, but it seems to be best practice to calibrate it first. Sometimes it can cause issues.
Hi when ur at a stand still and when u rev it does the gate open and close or do u have to drive it to build boost before it opens
Hi there, it has been a while but i think the wastegate did move with the car in neutral.
Do I need to lift car up,and do from beneath when connecting that new vacum line pipe?Tnx
Its very difficult to do it otherwise.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV It is difficult really,I have found alternative way..
Perfect instructions!
Fantastic video!
Is there a diagram or better info on how to route the pipe
great info
Thanks for the comment
What's the OE part number for the vacuum hose? Is it easy to run it through to the back of the engine? Many parts to disassemble in order to properly install the vacuum hose? Why is the wastegate open at idle?
Hi
I do not know the OE number for the vacuum hose, i bought some replacement vacuum hose from the motor factors and cut it to length.
The video here hopefully shows what was disassembled to replace the hose, the odd part where getting a camera in was a tad difficult but its reasonably easy to reach.
The waste-gate is open at idle as the turbo does not need to produce boost under that particular time.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi. Do you remember the total length of the vacuum hose and inner and outer diameters? Roughly? Less than 3 m, 4 mm and 9 mm, respectively?Turbo pressure and air flow measured values are less than reference values. Will the vacuum hose replacement f ix this issue? It seems that the original vacuum hose is made of hard black plastic with a gray thermal sleeve I guess and only the last elbow that connects to the turbo actuator is silicone. Will a silicone hose replace the original hose?
@@csraln6748
Hi there
Unfortunately if I haven't quoted diameters or lengths in the video itself that is the only place the information will be. Unfortunately i do not remember what they are.
Love your work, well done
Great video thank you know how to change boost pump pipe on Turbo now
Glad to help, thanks for the comment
Is this the 90cv version?
Hi have had the same issue so yesterday i replaced the egr and now i am getting boost .
What ive noticed is under accelerqtion is ill get sudden drop of power and then it will build again straight away ..
I have read that it could be caused by a dodgy vac line ?? .
Only other thing ive noticed is when i start car actuator dosent snap shut it creeps ? .
Do u think my problem coukd be a sosgy vac line . Thanks
Hi there, part of the problem on this car was the vacuum line. Especially with the age of these cars now it is not implausible that the odd vacuum line may be slightly perished. A fairly cheap fix to get a length of vacuum line and plumb it from the actuator to the turbo
Hey . Yh i tried the vac line no no evail just lost turbo all togethwr now ?
Excellent Video . Thank you.
Thanks for the comment.
Did the missing EGR gasket could cause the car to throw P0401 fault code?
Im not entirely sure, the missing EGR gasket was a further indication that the car was not running with its original EGR valve, and it did leave a fair bit of a mess around the area.
Thnx for the video
I have the same car but can you share the diagram on how to run connect atm.out.vac? Ok atm is clear,out you would run it to Westgate,im only struggling to find a vac connection from vac inlet to where?please assist same car same engene.thnx in advance
Hi there, unfortunately i do not have one of these engines out to create a video of what you need. Best thing to do would be to look up HDi & TDCi Tuning - Owners and Fans Group on facebook and ask on there. A very useful place to ask all questions related to these engines, plenty of members tuning them and doing work on them. Someone should have one out and be able to assist further.
How much vacuum pipe did you need?
Hi there, not too sure i just keep a roll in the shed, it does other cars. Probably less than a meter.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Ok thanks, I have a Citroen berlingo and found my pipe was off at the actuator, Think it’s knackered anyway, Any idea the dimensions of the pipe I’ll need to get some!
You are perfect
Does a peugeot 308 2010 petrol have a egr valve or only diesel ones have?
The EP9 prince engines possibly have one i am not sure, the old TU engines did not
Hello! Is it ok if nu turbo is more heated now?
Hi there,
i do not fully understand the question. Have you changed the turbo?
I replaced my egr with a brand new one but still getting anti skid messages and when I get this message car dosen't have normal engine power.
Anti skid messages on a peugeot?
Or is it saying esp/asr system faulty?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I have a volvo c30 1.6d
@@khorvath74
I am not sure, best to have the faults read by a proper diagnostic machine first. Anti skid is related to the ABS/Traction Control system although something EGR related could trigger the message on the dash, best to have the faults read and then work from there othewise it is a guessing game.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I got two codes P0490 Exhaust gas recirculation control circuit a high and P138B
Thankyou
hey dude i would just like to ask i have a peagot 308 sw 1.6 hdi when the car is cold the car has its normal power but when its hot and i go to 3rd gear and go above 3000 rpm for some reason it goes into limp mode and has 0 boost then and it feels very slugish would you know what the issue could be
Hi there, not sure. Possibly have the fault codes read first see if anything comes up. Could be the vacuum pipes to the turbo or the EGR but a fault code reader will be the first place to start.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV ive got one of them and all that it gives me is saying under boost condition :) thanks tho for helping one thing thats worrying me is that there was alot of oil in the turbo which makes me think the turbo went but i dont want to believe it also i got a boost guage to see how much boost it makes now for the car it should make 14 psi the car sometimes do that but when its hot its about 10 psi or 12 if im lucky 14 but ye
@@RN_SX Hi, i would hit the owners clubs/forums with what info you have and ask questions there.
I generally do that if i have this sort of issue, by the time i make a video its after a fair bit of questions and Googling.
There will be oil that drips out when you remove the turbo inlet pipe, thats completley normal on most diesels, Crankcase vapours are contributing to this. Excess blue smoke would be caused if your turbo was on the way out.
I dont know what the boost pressure should be for your specific turbo, thats very much a question for the owners clubs. A more general thing i would say to check is the play in the turbo shaft when the engine is off. Feel it with a finger it should be fairly tight, with minimal movement off its central axis. Any excess movement would indicate the bearings that support the shaft are worn which would be cause for a new turbo.
Another thing to check is that the wastegate or variable vane actuator operates. A vacuum pump can be used to actuate it without the cars controls, check to see if its moving smoothly again with the car off. If there are any areas in its travel where it binds or gets stiff then that might be something to investigate.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV ok bro thanks so much for the i have checked the turbo and there is like play for sure ive checked it a while ago i cant remember if it was really lose or not but ye ill for sure check the wastegate and all that :D Thanks again
Top video
Is this the same diesel engine/egr thats in a 2013 mazda 3 ?
Yes i think Mazda got these engines through their connection with ford.
Should the actuator move in and out as the car is revved ?
I think so yes, but it definitely should move when it starts up
@@peugeotCitroen2CV ok thanks , I getting a low boost code only every few month ,and changes n45 map maf and van has no acceleration but flys after 3k,
Reason I think it’s a problem is I had a 1.6hdi berlingo and it was rapid off the mark , so bought a ford transit courier 16tdci which is same engine and it’s flat as a fart , got it remapped it’s a little better but still slow , wondering if this is slow because of turbo or if it’s the fly by wire throttle making it shit on acceleration??
@@richardmathers7238
There could be various reasons for it being slow. Is it actuating the turbo ok? Have you tried it with the MAF disconnected?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV hi yer it goes great with maf disconnect which made me think it was faulty but Iv tried 3 different maf sensor and it never runs as good as it unplugged but it has no dtc either ?
@@richardmathers7238
HDI & TDCI Tuning - Owners and fans group. On Facebook is a good place to head to for knowledge on these engines.
The wiring to the maf sensor may have issues, and with a remap it may need a specific map sensor. I think there also may have been certain remaps that do not need the maf sensor. Worth asking on there, as i would be reaching the limits of my knowledge on this subject.
how did you solve the problem regarding the oil around all the engine top? :D
Sprayed all down with traffic film remover and let it sit for about 10 minutes, reapplied then sprayed the bay with snow foam and pressure washed the whole area. Just cover over the ECU area with a plastic bag to prevent it from getting wet.
Adding to what was already said. It's worth checking under the car. Between a leaking EGR and a leaking PCV (on the top of the head). Usually creates a major mess all over the engine, all the way to the bottom part. On my latest project that's precisely what happened. Previous owner didn't address the issue on time, so the entire engine was covered in black soot. The sump can be scraped with a putty knife! That gives a pretty good image of how bad it can turn if left unattended!
On metal parts "white spirit" can be used, BUT do not let it touch any plastic or rubber components. It's an extremely efficient solvent, but it will destroy all rubber components with the same efficiency. So do not use it on those parts. Cheers
@@crpth1 The PCV is that the intake pipe that clips onto the side of the rocker cover, a lot of them seem to leak around there.
Seen quite a few also with a lot of soot around the injectors its worth checking the tightness of the clamp bolts that hold down the injector as the carbon that blows past a loose injector is a real nuisance to deal with.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV - Absolutely. Usually the PCV leak is easily corrected with a new (and very cheap) O-ring. The rocker cover leakage with a new rubber gasket. On my latest project a new gasket set me back about 16€! Surely not the end of the world even for a cheapskate like me. LOL 😂
About the injector clamps I believe it's worth a word of caution! I've seen this to many times. People go ape with it and thigh does bolts like there's no tomorrow... Than, really bad things happen!
Anyone reading this. PLEASE make use of your best torque wrench and go "by the book".
Remember no gasket, in this world, will work better when overtightened. In fact it will be destroyed! It's that simple. ;-)
With this said, in an outstanding large number of cases, the soot around the injectors come from the PCV and the rocker cover leakage!! Nothing to do with the injectors seal/clamps! This will take many by surprise! Do to how simple (and cheap) it is to fix. Too many are paying for new injector seals work, when the "culprit" is just right beside, hiding in plain sight!
Cheers
@@crpth1
The leaky injectors usually produce a much thicker almost fluffy looking mess, accompanied by a distinctive noise caused by the blow by. The oil leaks are generally the more common issue on these engines. I think its how the cars resist rust so well haha.
Where did you get the vacuum pipe from bud?
My local motor factors keep it in rolls, i got a few lenghts of different diameters just to have. Most independant motor factors will stock it. Although i have bought the stuff from ebay in the past also.
I done my egr and ever since it’s sucking in air and dumping it like crazy! Car keeps holding back nearly stooling no engine management light just a code saying to much air! Sounds like I’ve fitted a dump valve 😂
Hi there, it might be possible that the gasket need to be replaced or one of the air intake pipes is not on correctly.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV it’s now coming up with P10100 P0113 P0104 P0234 and engine management is on… I can’t see why I have all these out of nowhere…
I have got a P1461 fault code. Will it help for it?
Im not sure.
Typing P1461 into google seems to ellude to EGR issues
www.peugeotforums.com/threads/depollution-fault-fixed.339742/
However without having a more defined fault code or more details on the live view paramaters of the car when it is running it is hard to say with 100% confidence that the EGR should be removed. It does no harm to remove it and check its condition.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I have changed egr valve and still the same, no over 3k rpm. I have checked the turbo actuator and it's moving when finger is holding vacuum inlet. No fault codes. Turbo actuator needs replace or turbo? I found some screw in the turbo when disconnected the black pipe.
@@bartbartosz6448
It should not move when you hold your finger over the inlet, if it moves then the diaphragm inside is faulty. You would need to try another actuator.
Unfortunately no i have no movie on how to do it, i have not done that job before. I would recommend the owners clubs/forums for some form of guide.
Since Brexit and new Custims and excise charges, buying parts from Ebay to be shipped to Ireland has got a whole lot more expensive. I will be honest, I find it depressing to say the least. It is like 21%vat added.
Even over here to northern Ireland its a whole load of extra hassle, getting cars across costs much more, companies dont want to ship anymore. Hassle, not sure they could reach some sort of agreement as the two countries are right beside each-other and one of few EU countries that have right hand drive cars. How is it for you in the south buying parts from the EU i don't think thats changed?
Hi can I ask where r u based ?
Northern Ireland
Class
Egr nut underneath pain get at
Круто!
PSA couldn't have made it much harder to get at!
Its not really that hard in reality, i was there working on it
Be good if you talked your way through this
I prefer the subtitles they are much more concise and can be paused and translated.
It would be better if they were left on a bit longer
Think I would have plugged fuel lines and filter inlets... Easy and safe
bwhahaha in uk when you want to open the engine door you have to ask the passenger to do it or go down and go passenger side and open it .... hilarious :DDDDDDDDD
It is a mild inconvenience but never really a deal breaker
We have not spare for peugeot 😭
What do you mean?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
In Iraqe we don't have a lot spare parts for peugeot
İyi iş
What a ball ache to have to remove all that to get to egr valve, I have Volvo with same engine and so much easier
It is true in some cars the engine bay is a bit more conventional such as on the C5 and 407 which makes this job considerably larger. You cant even say the added hassle is worth it for the svelte looks of the 307 haha but that cab forward design is what they went for and the scuttle panel ends up covering the back of the engine.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV hi, wonder if you can help me with an issue with mine, I've cleaned the egr valve and all was fine for a few days then symptoms came back, car will often hesitate a little until I put foot down a little more then all ok again.
Also I keep getting soot around the turbo area now and then, any ideas what could be causing this?
@@FatherJack-b1u ?
It may have sooted up again, what condition was the pipe that leads to the EGR valve in?
Soot around the turbo, was it ever replaced or is there a gasket on its way out?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV my knowledge is limited, just a DIY mechanic, gonna check everything over when we get some dry weather, only owned the car 3 month.
I did notice once when I disconnected the electrical connector to egr for a couple of days I didn't notice build up of soot from turbo, coincidence? 🤔
Реглажа на чистачките ти избега нещо.
Adjusting your wipers avoids something.
Only peugeot can make it so difficult. No brains
When sitting down to design the car the ease of removing an EGR valve 10 years after it has been produced does not sit at the top of their priorities. Its not even the worst to get at compared to some other manufacturers.
Its not really that difficult either, i was there i even recorded a video of it.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV he should be happy i have seen alot worse and u even have to change the EGR cooler aswell and move the particle filter to reach all bolts. this is nothing . and so many complain about french cars ar e bad etc, but i should say german cars are much worse. i have had a few citroens and peugots and i have done less work on them than friends volvo ww audi bmw cars. IF i buy a new car it wiyll be a new citroen . o have an 2012 C5 now . and done all service and the few repairs on it my own and saved alot. for example changeing cam axle belt or what its call at a company should cos me around 900 euro i made the job myself in less than 2 hour for 120 euro . so reading up guides like this and do the work urself saves alot of money . and french cars are not that bad to work with
@@mathiasternstrom4173
I think the 1.6 tdi golf requires the subframe and turbo to come out to get to the egr. So yep these hdi engines are not too bad to work on.
WELLDONE...VERY HELPFUL...THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO...MAKING A VIDEO ABOUT REPLACING THE VACCUM LINE , WILL BE HELPFUL TOO..
Thanks for the comment
Love your work, well done
Thanks
Great video.
great well made video