NOTE: Make sure you remove any screws holding the rotor on. This screw is located between the lug bolts. Without this screw being removed no matter of banging away on rotor will help. NOTE to DC Auto .. please do not remove this note as it is critical to the task of removing the rotor.
Thank you. Usually I try to show this step. Sometimes if someone has already done a brake job, they don't put those screws back. That may have been the case on this particular vehicle. Good note though.
All that does is holds the rotor to the hub so it's not hanging as far as I can tell. A lot of times when someone does a brake job, they don't put the screw back in. I usually do unless the screw gets damaged during removal. Being that your hub was an AC Delco hub, I would double check with the rotor off of the hub. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@DCAutoEnhancementA little late but from what i’ve learned the screw is only applied from the Assembly line to hold the rotor in place. It’s not necessary to put back put it definitely is an ease of mind thing imo.
Lots of comments about bleeding the brakes. But he didn’t change a line or any hydraulic component. Cap was removed from reservoir so that when the caliper is opened the fluid will push through the system. Air will discharge through the reservoir . Once the cap is put back and car is running, pumping the brake will close the caliper on to the new rotor. No fluid loss
I really appreciate this video. As a single mom with no auto mechanic history (only changing a tire and battery), I feel like this is something I can do. Thank you for your thorough explanation!!
Thank you! This job is a rewarding one when you're done and realize how much money you saved. I do suggest that if you decide to take on this job, watch a few other videos on this car just to make sure you get a couple different sources of information. Also, if you have any questions about it, you are welcome to ask them here. Good luck to you!
I have a 2018 Chevrolet impala premier I'm about to do a complete brake job on pads and Rotors my question is should I go with the same type of Rotors that came off the vehicle the Oem or should I go with Brembo Rotors along with the Akebono pads I have, Thanks in advance
Thanks for this video. Not many for these cars. before you put the new rotor on the hub, you should clean the hub around the lugs so that the rotor runs true when braking. Otherwise you may end up with a pulsing brake pedal
Even with 10 in breaker bar and WD40 I’m having a hell of a time getting the bolts that hold the calipers bracket off. Any other tips or tricks would be appreciated
@@willypet100 turn the wheels where you can get to the breaker bar straight on and then you can try to slip a bar over the breaker bar to get more leverage.
also, those new rotors are covered with oil to prevent rust. The installer should clean that oil off of all surfaces on the rotors before installing. Otherwise, the new pads will be contaminated
if you bleed the brakes, you will want to do it after changing the brake components. It is recommended to bleed them but I don't always because we aren't usually doing anything to introduce air into the hydraulic system while performing this process. Thank you for watching.
I don't recall this car having a bolts or screws holding it on, usually if they do, I make sure to show it. The 4 lbs sledge hammer usually is all I need to remove them. Depends on where you are climate wise. I'm in the midwest where rust is a thing, northeast, you might want a full size sledgehammer, out west, it might just fall off when you take the wheel off🤣
@@Dukkeb91 mostly, the rear calipers, you will need a tool that will twist as well as push the piston back into the caliper. This kit will do the trick and it's handy to have around: amzn.to/3RLjytG
@@DCAutoEnhancement yes pumped it up a hundred times ran around …it stops but the stopping power is horrible I have to press all the way to the floor to come to a complete stop
My guide where seized/stuck. Is there a good way to prevent that? I know I gotta lube the pins. But should they be replaced? Can I clean out the wholes in the bracket? Thanks again
I have used a drill bit that is just slightly smaller that the pin to clean out where they go. Just twist it by hand and you can clean the old slides with sandpaper to get them smooth again. Probably 220 or 150 grit should be fine then re lube them.
Thank you for this video. I would’ve liked it if you explained where to put the Jack stands. I have this same model of car, and I’m not sure where to put Jack stands since it’s a unibody. I see two long subframe rails along the engine and transmission, would those be suitable to hold the weight of the car?? Any info helps. Thanks again.
@@DCAutoEnhancement oh ok. I seen only a few videos with this car, where they put the Jack stand under the bushing/ fastener where the control arm connects to the subframe.
@@DCAutoEnhancement the rails I’m talking about are behind the wheels. Like when I lift one side of my car to change the oil I see to the left of pan a long piece of metal. Looks like an old school body frame. But it’s one side of the subframe to form the engine cradle. Thanks again for any info fam.
That is what I thought you were talking about. One other place toward the front of the car that you can use jack stands is where the engine cradle mounts to the car there is a bolt, you can place the jack right where the bolt is also.
A big hammer should remove them. You may also need that hammer to get the rotors off the hub. Good luck on your project. Find a good brake bleeding video since you are changing the calipers too.
It's been a while since I did this job. It may have been on the bolt for the lower control arm or you will see a "rib" that ruins the length of the car that gives the body strength, it would have been one of those two places
@@DCAutoEnhancement awesome I think I’ll be using the bolt on the lower control arm, probably best to center the jack stand on in the middle of the bold?
Yes, I usually at least loosen the cap and set it on top of the opening to keep debris out and this is just to help when pushing the piston back in on the caliper. Make sure you don't forget to put it back on! Good luck and have fun.
It is a good idea to bleed them after changing pads and rotors but I didn't do anything to introduce air into the system, that's why I didn't bleed them.
That's because when the calipers are compressed for the new pads, it pushes the fluid back into the reservoir. So, normally, I don't need to add brake fluid.
@DCAutoEnhancement yes, so you pump the brakes until it fills the reservoir again. You potentially over fill it because the fluid isn't gone just moved. Now in this case it was ok to add a little because you lost some unattaching the hose lol
NOTE: Make sure you remove any screws holding the rotor on. This screw is located between the lug bolts. Without this screw being removed no matter of banging away on rotor will help. NOTE to DC Auto .. please do not remove this note as it is critical to the task of removing the rotor.
Thank you. Usually I try to show this step. Sometimes if someone has already done a brake job, they don't put those screws back. That may have been the case on this particular vehicle. Good note though.
My ac Delco wheel bearing hub assembly did not have a hole in order to replace the screw..is this something to worry about?
All that does is holds the rotor to the hub so it's not hanging as far as I can tell. A lot of times when someone does a brake job, they don't put the screw back in. I usually do unless the screw gets damaged during removal. Being that your hub was an AC Delco hub, I would double check with the rotor off of the hub. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@DCAutoEnhancementA little late but from what i’ve learned the screw is only applied from the Assembly line to hold the rotor in place. It’s not necessary to put back put it definitely is an ease of mind thing imo.
@@jivanpersad2420 i agree
Lots of comments about bleeding the brakes. But he didn’t change a line or any hydraulic component. Cap was removed from reservoir so that when the caliper is opened the fluid will push through the system. Air will discharge through the reservoir . Once the cap is put back and car is running, pumping the brake will close the caliper on to the new rotor. No fluid loss
I really appreciate this video. As a single mom with no auto mechanic history (only changing a tire and battery), I feel like this is something I can do. Thank you for your thorough explanation!!
Thank you! This job is a rewarding one when you're done and realize how much money you saved. I do suggest that if you decide to take on this job, watch a few other videos on this car just to make sure you get a couple different sources of information. Also, if you have any questions about it, you are welcome to ask them here. Good luck to you!
Good deal hadn't done this in awhile needed a refresher. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have a 2018 Chevrolet impala premier I'm about to do a complete brake job on pads and Rotors my question is should I go with the same type of Rotors that came off the vehicle the Oem or should I go with Brembo Rotors along with the Akebono pads I have, Thanks in advance
Well, OEM is good but I imagine that Brembo is probably better than OEM
Excellent video thank you for sharing!
Thanks for this video. Not many for these cars. before you put the new rotor on the hub, you should clean the hub around the lugs so that the rotor runs true when braking. Otherwise you may end up with a pulsing brake pedal
Thank you for adding that here!
Even with 10 in breaker bar and WD40 I’m having a hell of a time getting the bolts that hold the calipers bracket off. Any other tips or tricks would be appreciated
@@willypet100 turn the wheels where you can get to the breaker bar straight on and then you can try to slip a bar over the breaker bar to get more leverage.
also, those new rotors are covered with oil to prevent rust. The installer should clean that oil off of all surfaces on the rotors before installing. Otherwise, the new pads will be contaminated
Thank you so much shop was going to charge me 900 for both axles
Thanks for checking out the video, I'm glad you were able to save some money
a 900 dollar brake job? Man that mechanic was hosing you.
Thanks for this video ! Other than the few other notes I made earlier the video was helpful. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!
That's great, I'm happy the video was helpful to you!
@@DCAutoEnhancement Hey ... was wondering where the comment about the screw holding the rotor on went to ? Deleted ?
I didn't delete it
@@Elfdogable I found it and pinned it so it's at the top
to prevent bending those jack points with that floor jack, you should put a rubber hockey puck on top of that jack cup on the floor jack.
Great tip, thank you!
Whats the part number for the rotors & pads.....for 2016 chevy impala ltz
Here are links to the pads and rotors: Brake Rotors
amzn.to/3qI5Vf3
Brake Pads
amzn.to/2TxiygK
Good quality video
Thank you
DIY save $. Great video.
Do you need to open the lid on the master cylinder in order to compress the piston?
You don't have to. I do it sometimes and sometimes I don't. I think the piston might compress easier with it off though
Thank you sir! I was wondering if i should bleed the breaks fluid along with this pro cess? before installing then
if you bleed the brakes, you will want to do it after changing the brake components. It is recommended to bleed them but I don't always because we aren't usually doing anything to introduce air into the hydraulic system while performing this process. Thank you for watching.
What to so if you get air in the system 3:45
3:45 @@DCAutoEnhancement
@@danielrandolph6052 then you would want to bless the brake system
I don’t know if I missed it but do I need anything to remove the rotor besides the sledgehammer? Like is there a bolt holding it on or no?
I don't recall this car having a bolts or screws holding it on, usually if they do, I make sure to show it. The 4 lbs sledge hammer usually is all I need to remove them. Depends on where you are climate wise. I'm in the midwest where rust is a thing, northeast, you might want a full size sledgehammer, out west, it might just fall off when you take the wheel off🤣
Ok cool thanks. I’m in the south. Looks pretty simple. Now would it be the same for the rear?
@@Dukkeb91 mostly, the rear calipers, you will need a tool that will twist as well as push the piston back into the caliper. This kit will do the trick and it's handy to have around: amzn.to/3RLjytG
The caliber boot got twisted up and possibly has a tiny hole in it now ?? My brake pedal continues press to the floor
even after pumping the pedal a couple times?
@@DCAutoEnhancement yes pumped it up a hundred times ran around …it stops but the stopping power is horrible I have to press all the way to the floor to come to a complete stop
@@Gnosis4rez you may need to bleed them
@@DCAutoEnhancement yes I figured thanks a lot for the response!
@@Gnosis4rez no problem.
Great video
Thank you!
Thank you so much i will be doing this on my own
Come back here to comment or read through the comments if you have any questions. Thank you for watching
My guide where seized/stuck. Is there a good way to prevent that? I know I gotta lube the pins. But should they be replaced? Can I clean out the wholes in the bracket? Thanks again
I have used a drill bit that is just slightly smaller that the pin to clean out where they go. Just twist it by hand and you can clean the old slides with sandpaper to get them smooth again. Probably 220 or 150 grit should be fine then re lube them.
@@DCAutoEnhancement thanks Chief. You know you’re stuff.
Thank you for this video. I would’ve liked it if you explained where to put the Jack stands. I have this same model of car, and I’m not sure where to put Jack stands since it’s a unibody. I see two long subframe rails along the engine and transmission, would those be suitable to hold the weight of the car?? Any info helps. Thanks again.
Yes those rails you mentioned are suitable for Jack stand placement.
@@DCAutoEnhancement oh ok. I seen only a few videos with this car, where they put the Jack stand under the bushing/ fastener where the control arm connects to the subframe.
@@DCAutoEnhancement the rails I’m talking about are behind the wheels. Like when I lift one side of my car to change the oil I see to the left of pan a long piece of metal. Looks like an old school body frame. But it’s one side of the subframe to form the engine cradle. Thanks again for any info fam.
That is what I thought you were talking about. One other place toward the front of the car that you can use jack stands is where the engine cradle mounts to the car there is a bolt, you can place the jack right where the bolt is also.
so the pads are seized to the rotor… do i just need to hammer it off? or try to compress the brake? im replacing calipers pads and rotors
A big hammer should remove them. You may also need that hammer to get the rotors off the hub. Good luck on your project. Find a good brake bleeding video since you are changing the calipers too.
Great information. Thanks
Thanks for watching Dave!
Great instruction!!
Thank you! I definitely appreciate he feedback!
Hey awesome video! Where exactly did you put your jack stand?
It's been a while since I did this job. It may have been on the bolt for the lower control arm or you will see a "rib" that ruins the length of the car that gives the body strength, it would have been one of those two places
@@DCAutoEnhancement awesome I think I’ll be using the bolt on the lower control arm, probably best to center the jack stand on in the middle of the bold?
@@jacobmorin4548 yes, I would agree
What size impact did you use
1/2"
I was told by orileys that I'd need a special break pad due to my electronic parking break
I don't recall if that happened in my case or not.
What size socket did you use on your impact to take the lug nuts off the tires?
If I remember correctly, it was a 22mm or 7/8"
Should I remove the brake fluid cap before doing this?
Yes, I usually at least loosen the cap and set it on top of the opening to keep debris out and this is just to help when pushing the piston back in on the caliper. Make sure you don't forget to put it back on! Good luck and have fun.
@@DCAutoEnhancement ok thanks
do you have to remove the axle nut?
No
No
Does it matter what kind of model?!
This process should work for all 2014-2020 Chevy Impala with exception for the SS model if they even made it during those years.
Did u bleed the brakes and if not why explain???
It is a good idea to bleed them after changing pads and rotors but I didn't do anything to introduce air into the system, that's why I didn't bleed them.
What kind of grease is that?
Brake parts grease. I don't have the info at the moment but I think there should be a link in the description.
thanks
Thank you for watching!
I needed a 14mm socket instead of a 13mm. Not sure why my 2015 Impala varies from this video.
I hope I didn't give bad information. It's possible that I got mixed up. Thank you for your feedback
My 2014 Impala Limited has a 14mm for caliper and 13mm for the bracket. Strange.
Not torquing down to specs?
It's possible that I didn't torque the caliper bracket and caliper according to OE specifications. Thank you for watching.
Do you by chance have the torque specs for the caliper mount?
26 ft lbs
You never add brake fluid... Ever
That's because when the calipers are compressed for the new pads, it pushes the fluid back into the reservoir. So, normally, I don't need to add brake fluid.
@DCAutoEnhancement yes, so you pump the brakes until it fills the reservoir again. You potentially over fill it because the fluid isn't gone just moved. Now in this case it was ok to add a little because you lost some unattaching the hose lol